Russia

April 2018 - May 2024
An open-ended adventure by Kerrilyn Read more
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  • Day 9

    Last Day in St Petersburg

    April 14, 2018 in Russia β‹… πŸŒ™ 9 Β°C

    Sadly a week has already past and today we fly to our next destination but what a fun filled enjoyable week it has been!

    We are flying to Ulan-Ude in Siberia this afternoon so first job of the morning was to pack our bags and get ready to leave the apartment later today. We had done some washing yesterday so it was nice to have a clean suitcase of clothes again.

    We were kind of retracing yesterday’s steps and going to the Faberge Museum which we’d missed. We stopped for breakfast at the coffee house we’d first breakfasted at before continuing our walk to the museum. It was such a gorgeous day today - the weather was sublime! It was very pleasant walking along the channel in the sunshine. There was no more ice now - it had all completely melted.

    It wasn’t a huge museum - there was one room with the Faberge eggs and a couple of other rooms with various gold and silver pieces. Most of the eggs on display had been commissioned by the royal family. We had audio guides and it was really interesting to find out the story behind each egg. They really are a work of art. When the Bolsheviks took over I think Faberge escaped and the company was disbanded.

    I liked the detail on the one with all the miniature portraits over it - they look almost like photographs! I don’t know how someone can paint something so small with so much detail! Some of the eggs were present given by Tsar Nicholas to his wife or mother, one was to commemorate the coronation etc. Eli had been really looking forward to this and said it was a highlight for him.

    We then had a long trek back to St Isaac’s Cathedral. We stopped at a massive book shop / souvenir shop / stationery shop on the way. Eli and Kyria bought a few books and I bought some St Petersburg mugs.

    Michael and Kyria took Heidi to the playground while Eli and I made the climb up St Isaac’s Cathedral for the view - all 200 steps worth. I think I only just made it!! It was a fantastic view over the city.

    We met Michael and Kyria back at the playground which had since dried up completely, no more slush! Heidi looked like she was having a ball.

    We had to leave the apartment about 3pm to get to the airport - it was a bit of a rush getting the last minute things packed (I just remembered I left my chocolate cow in the fridge 😩). The lady came to lock up behind us and we had arranged for a taxi to meet us out the front. Funnily enough it was the same guy that had dropped us off!

    He had quite a nice car and was getting annoyed at Heidi who kept putting her feet on the back of his seat. I spent the rest of the trip trying to keep her feet off 😬 once we arrived at the airport and we were all out he was in there cleaning his seat! So like Dad πŸ˜‚

    We were travelling with a relatively budget airline to Ulan-Ude and they appeared to be very strict with carry on luggage size. They had a very small box that it had to fit into with the lid shut and they were making everyone put their hand luggage in and sometimes taking pictures. As there were quite a few of us we managed to get through without them checking our had luggage as we didn’t think Kyria or possibly Michaels would pass. They took soo long to book us on. Then we had to combine the backpack with Heidi’s bag otherwise we would have had to pay for an extra bag even though Heidi’s was way under limit. So with all that we escaped carry on check. Then we had about 2 or 3 security checks we had to go through! They’re pretty high on security here - I even got frisked as I think they didn’t want to put me through the full body scan machines they had going!

    Then we didn’t even have seats together - we were all sitting separately, except for me and Heidi. Kyria, Heidi and I went on a different bus to the plane as we were at a different end of the plane. Heidi hadn’t had a sleep and she wailed for most of the first half hour. She fell asleep eating pringles and then woke up for the way down and was going to start wailing again until I offered her more pringles (I was getting desperate). People were giving me looks and it didn’t help that eli was sitting at the other end of the plane. It was not a pleasant flight to Moscow.
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  • Day 10

    Arrival in Ulan-Ude

    April 15, 2018 in Russia β‹… β˜€οΈ 14 Β°C

    We had a bit of drama going from Moscow to Ulan-Ude as they picked up on Kyria’s hand luggage as we were about to board. Even though it had been ‘let through’ on the previous flight with the same air line they weren’t going to this time. So they had to pay extra. We held up the buses in the process! At least she only had to pay for it one leg.

    Oh and I nearly lost my phone and iPad without knowing it. A guy had knocked my tray off the security bag line and stuff had all fallen out. I had already gone through and was waiting on the other side. Eli was behind the guy and was getting annoyed at him cos he wasn’t going to pick the stuff up and when he did he just dumped it straight on the line instead of putting it back in the tray. So I didn’t realise that my phone and iPad hadn’t come through. A guy came up to me once we were seated at the gate with them in his hand. He wanted me to log in to prove they were mine. Having not missed them, I was bewildered that he had them and didn’t even thank him! I still don’t know how he knew they were mine or who he was!

    Again we were all seated separately but Heidi and I had a row to ourselves this time (why they didn’t seat Eli there I don’t know) and Eli had armed me with some healthier snacks for her so it was a smoother flight. She slept for most of the flight. It was about 5 1/2 hours and we crossed a few time zones so when we arrived in Ulan-Ude it was about 7.30 in the morning. We are now about 2 hours behind home.

    None of us had slept much on the flight except for Kyria and Heidi so we felt pretty zonked.

    The airport was relatively small and you had to crowd into a little room to get your luggage off the conveyor. Then they wanted us to show our baggage tickets to prove it was ours - who does that!! I think I was the only one to still have mine!

    We found a taxi to take us to our apartment and he even rang the guy to let him know we had arrrived. I hadn’t dressed for cold cos it was so hot in the airports and planes. There was quite a cold breeze happening and we had to wait for about 1/2 hour the guy to turn up. The boys had gone for a walk to see if they could find somewhere else to stay. The guy turned up with a friend in another car. Apparently we had booked too late and the apartment wasnt ready (Eli had only booked I the other night) so they were going to drive us to another apartment! They were even happy to drive us to a hotel if we wanted.

    So we jumped in their cars and drove to another place which also wasn’t ready so they went to another one. They were really friendly and helpful and went above and beyond what they needed to do. The helped Eli organise a hire car for the week, went and organised a sim for his phone and said for him to call them if we needed anything, even though we were staying in the apartment for a couple of days. Really really hospitable.

    The rest of us had flaked out at the apartment and had a nap for an hour or two while the other stuff was being organised! It always hits so much harder flying the other way.

    At around 2-3pm we went for a bit of a walk, found a canteen nearby and had a meal as we were so hungry by this point. The food was ok - I don’t think we will go there again though. Then we went for a bit of a walk around the square before heading back after getting a few supplies from a mini-mart near us.

    Dinner was at an English Pub in the main square. After a good meal, we spent the evening at the apartment. We were subjected to a couple of hours of Heidi crying. I think her body clock was out and she’s also coming down with a cold πŸ™„ somehow Michael managed to sleep through her wailing - I’m still nonplussed!
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  • Day 11

    Strolling Around Ulan-Ude

    April 16, 2018 in Russia β‹… πŸŒ™ 2 Β°C

    We didn’t wake up until about 10am this morning which was rather shocking but I guess that’s jet lag for you. We had breakfast at the English pub again which was yummy and then went for a walk to see the main sights of Ulan-Ude. There was a main path to follow around the centre of town starting at a massive statute of Lenin’s head. They have statutes of Lenin everywhere! This one looked rather ominous at night time when it was lit up by lights.

    We had a slight detour to an ice cream shop - Baskin and Robbins or something. Apparently an American brand but I’d never heard of it. Then we continued our stroll. Heidi was entertained by rocks, sticks and steps along the way - who needs toys! It was a sunny day although the wind had quite a bite to it.

    We had a tour booked out to the Old Believer’s village this afternoon and we were being picked up outside our apartment at 3pm so we headed back home to get ready.
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  • Day 11

    Old Believers Museum & Church

    April 16, 2018 in Russia β‹… πŸŒ™ 2 Β°C

    We met our guide and driver outside our apartment complex and everyone introduced themselves. They had a small van for us - Heidi had a pretty cool seat. It was a normal seat, raised like a booster seat which an older child could sit on and then the bottom part of the seat folded up again and there was a seat for her underneath with the four point harness etc. A bit hard to explain but pretty cool! A 3 in one seat!

    It was about an hours drive out to the Old Believers Museum and Church. The little villages are filled with wooden houses with colourfully painted windows and ledges. They seem to really love their bright colours - sometimes even the roofs were painted a bright blue! The windows would often have lace and maybe flowers in them. The scenery was nice - mountains in the distance, river running by and a bit of snow here and there.

    The guide, his name was Chengis or something similar explained various things about the area and answered questions we had about Russian origin, culture, area etc.

    We arrived at the museum, Heidi was asleep so we left her in the car as the driver was happy to watch her until she woke up. He had a couple of kids himself and was quite clucky with her - it was nice.

    It was so cold in the museum! Heidi was sleeping on mine and Eli’s jumpers so we had to make do without. At least I had long sleeves - Eli was in short sleeves! The museum guide was an Old Believer (they’re a branch off the Russian Orthodox) and in the museum was all sorts of different objects and articles they used for their daily living. He took us round and explained it all to us. There was a little souvenir shop inside and we bought a little bird whistle made out of wood for Heidi.

    Then we went across to the church which was just over the road to look inside. Kyria and I had to don skirts and scarves. Heidi wanted to wear a scarf too. It was quite small inside - apparently there is only about 20 people who meet there but there’s about 500 in the area or something like that. He pointed out the various things in the church they use for their worship. They are very proud of their icons (pictures / paintings of Christ and Mary etc). Apparently their are 45 differences between them and Russian Orthodox (who’s counting πŸ˜‚) even down to how they make the cross before they pray or whatever.

    I had to visit their toilet outside and was a little taken aback when I opened the door and all there was, was a hole in the floor of the shed - not quite what I was expecting. I managed, pregnant and all πŸ˜‚ Heidi didn’t seem too perturbed by it!
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  • Day 11

    Meal with Old Believers

    April 16, 2018 in Russia β‹… β›… 2 Β°C

    We drove on a bit further and stopped at a house where we were going to have a meal with their traditional food.

    A few ladies came out the front to greet us dressed in their traditional garb. They didn’t speak English so our guide translated for us. The main lady showed us round a house they had set up with furniture etc. They were very small
    houses - I guess they were easier to keep warm.

    Apparently the women would spend half of their fertility stage pregnant. They had a pretty hard life, as I guess most women did back then without all the modern conveniences of today. I’m so soft - I couldn’t imagine doing half the things they had to. The irons were so heavy i think I’d burn holes in the clothes, churning the milk to make butter for 3 hours, cooking with massive pots you had to pull out with a big hook, washing by hand with a scrub board...

    Then we went to the room where they had a meal prepared. We shaped some pancakes with dough they had already prepared and they cooked them for us after which we sat down to eat. They had all sorts of different breads at the table - sweet and savoury with sesame seed dip, sour cream etc. We had a yummy soup to start called stchi or something, followed by meat with mashed potato and a sweet porridge which tasted like rice pudding to me - which the others strongly disagreed with. But I hold my opinion. I love rice pudding!

    They also had some moonshine which had to be drunk at various intervals throughout the meal in one shot. I abstained of course - thankful I had the excuse that I was pregnant πŸ˜‚ supposedly it was clean in that you wouldn’t have a hangover later.

    There was another group that joined us for the meal as well and sat at a separate table. There was so much food we were all quite stuffed by the end!
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  • Day 11

    Marriage Ceremony

    April 16, 2018 in Russia β‹… β›… 1 Β°C

    After the meal the ladies did some singing and dancing accompanied by a long suffering fellow playing the accordian. Occasionally they would grab someone from the table to dance with them. It was interesting - I can’t say the singing was enjoyable - they have such penetrating voices!!

    Then they wanted to show us how they prepare a bride and groom for a wedding. Kyria was the lucky one selected from our table with a guy from the other table. It was quite hilarious as all the ladies fussed round like hens to dress her in the traditional clothes which took some time. Her face expressions told it all - I don’t think she enjoyed our merriment at her expense πŸ˜‚ they sung as they dressed her (over her clothes of course). Apparently the Russians like their women well covered and as Kyria is so skinny they had to bulk her up to trick the groom to be!

    Then they dressed the groom and what followed was a period of haggling between the bride’s party and the groom’s. It seemed the bride’s good points were all about how hard she could work and how many children she would have and the groom was all about the looks! Finally it was agreed and money was paid after which there was more singing and dancing. The bride and groom had to kiss behind an apron and then dance together. It was all fun and both groups were getting into it.

    Even after the ceremony was over they sung a couple more songs, after which they took a couple of group photos and then we headed off after profuse thanks. It had been a fun experience and we all enjoyed it - even Kyria!

    The driver and guide dropped us back to the apartment. We had found out that our guide was the director of the Ulna-Ude museum we had walked past yesterday and we agreed to meet again for coffee and a chat before we headed off to Lake Baikal.
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  • Day 12

    Drive to Lake Baikal

    April 17, 2018 in Russia β‹… β›… 0 Β°C

    We were leaving to go stay near Lake Baikal for a couple of days so we had to pack up and leave the apartment again. The owner met us at 9.30 and we lugged the suitcases down the stairs - well the others did, I only carried the lighter bags, bit spoilt really. Eli brought the car around and we managed to fit all the luggage in.

    We had breakfast at the usual place and then walked down to the main mall to meet our guide from yesterday to have a coffee with him and see his museum. It was a lot colder today. The weather seems quite changeable here.

    We had a tour of the museum from one of the staff and learnt about the history of Ulan-Ude and how it began. It was settled by various tribes and was not particularly part of Russia. Then when Chenghis Khan started attacking and stealing, the Russian Emperor offered his protection to the area of Ulan-Ude in exchange for the area becoming part of Russia. It grew bigger due to being part of the trading route.

    We then had coffee with our guide (Eli wants me to add that he was the Director of the museum - I think it made him feel important πŸ˜‚) and he gave us some information about what we can do around Lake Baikal with a bit of a map. He was very friendly and even offered to show us some other things when we were back in Ulan-Ude. It is nice to have a few people to call on if we need help or get stuck!

    Then we hit the road. We were hoping to find a petrol station on the way out but we left town and still hadn’t come across one on the way. The petrol was low, so much to Eli’s annoyance we had to go back into town and fill up as we weren’t sure how far the next one would be. We went on our way again but Eli was wondering if the petrol gauge didn’t work properly as it was sitting on low again! Then the light came on! He thought the guy at the petrol station had filled the car up - so perhaps the gauge wasn’t working. We decided to keep on and stop at the next station we came across. Turned out they hadn’t filled it up properly at the last place - something must have got lost in translation! He’d only put a couple of litres in! So we had it filled up properly next time. Lucky we hadn’t assumed the gauge was just out and kept going!

    The scenery was quite pretty, driving over the mountains and through what looked like white birch forests. There was still quite a bit of snow in the ground which gave quite a magical effect.

    It took a few hours to get to the lake. It was completely frozen over and covered with snow drifts in areas. We could see people doing ice fishing as we drove by. This was something we wouldn’t mind having a go at if possible.

    We were staying at a guest house for a couple of days - it was a nice wooden house, neat and clean. It looked relatively new. The owner / manager didn’t speak much English but with a bit of Kyria’s russian and google translate we managed to organise some dinner and breakfast for the next morning.

    We mooched around a bit - I gave in to Heidi’s pleas and took her outside for half and hour to play in the sand pit and swing. It was so cold!!

    Before dinner we went for a brief walk down the street - looks like there is a couple of information centres we can check out tomorrow with various activities. We grabbed some snacks from the small mini mart before heading back for dinner which was a filling meal of local fish (served whole - i much prefer my fish filleted so I don’t have to look at the head!) with potato, bread, salad and some sort of sweet biscuit thing.

    We shall see what tomorrow brings!
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  • Day 13

    Exploring Gorya Chinsk

    April 18, 2018 in Russia β‹… β›… 14 Β°C

    We had breakfast provided at the guest house this morning after which we headed out for a walk round the town to see if there were any information places open. Seemed like most of them were actually mini marts. There were about 4 different ones around the small square all selling basically the same thing!

    We were trying to find the hot springs that were in the area - we were unsure if it was like a resort or natural ones. Eli was looking it up on his phone and it appears it was behind the church. We wandered round and found a pond with a creek and there was steam coming off it. There was a little bridge with a shelter over the middle with a bucket and tap set up and hot water running into it from the creek.

    We kept wandering and found a playground for Heidi and behind a forest with a fair amount of snow on the ground still. We had to make a snowman ⛄️ which Heidi enjoyed smashing down as we walked off! Snow just brings out the inner child in one!

    We made our way back to the guest house from here to go for a drive to some of the other towns nearby.
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  • Day 13

    Adventures at Lake Baikal

    April 18, 2018 in Russia β‹… β›… 20 Β°C

    We jumped into the car and drove back down the road we had come up yesterday to visit the town Turka. We found a good spot to get some pictures of the lake and ended up spending some time here clambering over the snow, indulging in a snow fight, breaking off icicles and testing the ice. We had wanted to walk across the lake to another big snow drift further out but after testing the ice we didn’t think it would be very safe, much to our chagrin. Mike and Kyria ventured out a bit further Heidi had a great time slipping and sliding in the snow.

    We all felt like a hot drink to warm us up but they don’t seem to have cafes round here - just canteens so we continued our drive down to Gremyachinsk. We wanted to check out a resort located here as we were keen to experience the hot springs. The resort was not as impressive as expected - I guess having done the hot springs in NZ I’m a bit spoilt but the rooms weren’t amazing, except for the extra fancy one which was $400 per night and you had to pay extra for the facilities. We like where we’re staying so we thought we might just come back to the resort during the day and use the banya (hot baths / cod baths / sauna etc).

    We couldn’t find much for lunch so we ended up stopping at a canteen and having lunch there. Then we drove round a bit, exploring a few back roads and stopping to take photos of the scenery. At one point Kyria was hanging out the car window getting photos! We were hopeful of seeing a bear in the forests but no Iuck! Perhaps they’re still hibernating!!

    We then drove back the the guest house for Heidi to have her nap.
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  • Day 13

    Sunset on Lake Baikal

    April 18, 2018 in Russia β‹… πŸŒ™ 6 Β°C

    We had a relaxing afternoon playing cards and munching snacks while Heidi had a snooze.

    She had a play in the sandpit outside with Papa when she woke up (that’s been a highlight of this place for her)! I had to sit out there with her for 20 minutes the other day and froze so I was thankful Eli was taking a turn πŸ˜‚ Then we decided to head out and find a good spot to see the sunset over the lake. We found the perfect spot except it was a bit cloudy so it wasn’t spectacular but it was still nice. Maybe tomorrow night we’ll get a good one.

    We had a bit more fun playing round in the snow again - took some more photos. Then we came home just in time for dinner. There was a Mongolian group of 4 also staying and they were fairly friendly.

    It’s been nice taking things a bit slower and enjoying some simple walks and outings in the countryside.
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