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Coast to coast plus...

août - novembre 2016
Une aventure de 82 jours par Nathan En savoir plus
  • 43empreintes
  • 2pays
  • 82jours
  • 158photos
  • 0vidéos
  • 16,3kkilomètres
  • 8,0kkilomètres
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Date ascendante
  • VoyageurCoast to coast plus...
    Jour 27

    Yellowstone, The Lesser Known

    26 septembre 2016, États Unis ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    My night at Norris was a little warmer than the night at Lewis Lake. Everything was still covered in frost but I didn't feel like the morning was as cold. Today I'm headed for the backcountry of Yellowstone out of the Blacktail Creek trail head. It's located only 20 or so miles from the northwest entrance of the park along the Yellowstone river. My plan is to hike in about 4.5 miles, set up camp, and then do an out and back the next day returning to the same campsite.

    To get to the trail head I have to drive from Norris to Canyon Village, and then about 3/4 of the way to Mammoth Hot Springs. There is a road between Norris and Mammoth Hot Springs, but it is closed for construction. I didn't mind the extra distance because I chose a hike that was short the first day and would only take about 2 hours. It was also another beautiful drive over Dunraven Pass which gets up to about 9000 feet. On the way up to the pass there is a gorgeous view if the Yellowstone basin and the Teton range off in the distance. The ride down was just as gorgeous.

    I arrive at the trailhead at about 1 o'clock. After arriving I start to prepare for the hike. All said and done it took about an hour to reorganize my backpack and take only the essentials. My small camelback day pack gets crammed with a two nights hike worth of stuff. To the bottom of the pack I secure my sleeping bag with some chord. In my pack goes my tent, 4 wool shirts, one pair of socks, a hat, gloves, some nuts, a stove, fuel, a knife, toothbrush, toothpaste, sunscreen, trowel, TP, and some Chapstick. On top of my pack in the sack that my sleeping bag came in I store the rest of my food and a water filter. I also stash the tent poles and steaks on the side of my pack and my solar panel and battery go on top of it all, which is how I have enough charge in my phone right now to write this.

    I start walking not knowing what to expect like any trail you've never hiked before. It is fairly flat and uneventful. About a mile or so later I come across a bison grazing alone. I continue along the trail and a couple hiking out with fishing poles is going back to the trail head. I pass one other person, sitting off to the side of the trail meditating and that's it for a person that I'll see that day. As I drop down into the canyon, I can start to hear the river. I come to a suspension bridge and the hike starts to get interesting. Only about 3/4 of a mile left to go. I get to my site right around 4. Set up, eat dinner, filter water, and hang my food. Then I sat by the river until it gets to be dusk. Before the sun dipped behind the hill in the other side of the river I noticed how wide open it is across the way. A perfect vantage to spot an animal. Now that I can hardly make things out, I hear some leaves rustling. I can't tell where it came from so I jump up and spin around with my bear spray at the ready. I see and hear nothing. All of my senses are on high alert and I scan my surroundings for movement or a sound. As I look across the river I spot a large black object. It moves and reveals that it is a black bear. I'm glad it's on the other side of the river and exploring the side of the river I'm on. It's time to retreat to the relative safety of my tent. My hands are starting to get cold anyway. I fall asleep rather quickly, and don't wake up very often throughout the night. A night above freezing!

    Pictures: Morning frost at Norris. Dunraven Pass looking over Yellowstone and the Teton range. Yellowstone Canyon. The suspension bridge that takes me to the north side of Yellowstone river. My fully loaded day pack after arriving at camp. The view out of my campsite.    En savoir plus

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  • VoyageurCoast to coast plus...
    Jour 28

    Yellowstone, The Lesser Known Part II

    27 septembre 2016, États Unis ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    I wake up in the morning to very quiet surroundings. A few birds, maybe some frogs, and the sound of the river nearby. Today I'll hike westward along the Yellowstone River until midday, and then turn around and head back to camp. I usually don't like to do out and back hikes because of the repetition, but the hike in the Tetons wore me out and I was looking for something more laid back. This hike was perfect. Not too much elevation change, but the river made the scenery change around every curve. The previous day I had seen a bison, a king fisher, and a black bear. Today I would see a young bull moose, in the same spot twice, a rattlesnake, a deer, a wood pecker, and a bald eagle. I guess Yellowstone still has it.

    The moose was an interesting interaction. The hike was along side the river, and the river in a canyon. This means that there isn't much room along the trail for animals to make a quick getaway. Most of the hike does not have a lot of shade from thick vegetation, which is where moose like to hang out in during the day. So every time I come to a place that has lots of trees and bushes I start to scan for bears and other animals seeking shade from the midday sun. I saw a big bill moose in the Tetons on the side of the road, but that doesn't count. That moose couldn't give a shit that any of the people or cars were there. A city moose. I wanted to see a moose in it's natural environment, and I finally found one. It is an incredible experience. It's exciting and humbling to encounter such an animal especially when you're miles away from another person. As soon as I saw the moose it heard me and looked right at me. I stopped in my tracks and tried to get a better look. As soon as I moved the moose took off. For an animal that large, it can move quickly and quietly through dense vegetation. If I had my eyes closed I wouldn't know it was there. I thought the moose was gone, and continued walking clumsily (in comparison to the moose's graceful trot) along the path, and then I see more movement. This time I can see the moose run up a hill and stop. It would seem the two of us both want to be in this small area. Me along the trail and the moose in the damp and shady section along the river. We are about 50 feet away from each other, the moose has the high ground, is much faster than I am, weighs several times more than me, and has antlers. The moose is scared of me, but it looks to be "cornered" so I am extra careful with my movements. If the moose charges me, I think my best option is to try and duck behind a tree. I go off trail to maintain our distance always keeping one eye on the moose and one eye on my escape route while the moose keeps at least one ear on me the whole time. I move slowly and quietly, eventually making my way around the magnificent animal. I take a few pictures and then I continue along the path leaving the moose behind.

    Soon I come to my half way point which is close to noon. I stop on a rock next to the river for some dried apricots and almonds, a great lunch when you have to carry all your belongings for the days. The river is peaceful and relaxing. What a way to spend a day. After lunch I turn around and head back. I think about the moose and wonder if it will still be there. Sure enough, one of the few places I would expect to see a moose during the day, he is still there. Again the moose runs away, this time along the trail. At first I'm not sure I'll be able to get around so easily since the passable area is smaller (the trail is right in the middle of the usable terrain). Then, just as the moose gets to the edge of this shaded area, he turns back towards me and starts to slowly walk around me, the same way I walked around him. What a courteous moose.

    After passing the moose it is back to the hike as usual. I'm scanning my surroundings for movement, sounds, and smells. The previous day I thought to myself as I was hiking in that this looks an awful lot like rattle snake country. That's odd that there was no warning sign like there was in the Badlands, or the signs they have for bears here. As I continue up a section of trail I had come down an hour or so ago I hear a sound. The new noise is loud and close. My brain starts to analyze the sound and compare it to previously heard sounds on record in my memory. After some time my memory comes back with a positive match for a reptile. This reptile is dangerous and the sound is a warning. The noise I hear is that of a rattlesnake. I feel a wave of adrenaline flow through me and before I know what's happening I have stopped and am moving backwards away from the sound which my eyes have moved towards and have confirmed that it is indeed a rattlesnake. I'm glad the rattlesnake knew I was there before I got too close for comfort. When I heard the snake I was probably about 8 feet away, and had moved back to about 15 feet all without thinking or looking at the rocky, uneven, sloped terrain below my feet.

    The snake is bathing in the sun. I know how the snake feels as I was fairly cold at night and I am warm blooded. So he tells me to go around. I heed the snakes polite suggestion and again go off trail to avoid further confrontation.

    The next couple of animals I see are much less intense. The deer I saw I don't think noticed I was there until I got behind it. I was as surprised to sneak up on it as it was too see me so close and at it's 6. The ear size on deer always amazes me. The wood pecker was nice to see as well. As I got close to camp I took note of the easy entrance into the water and decided to take a dip. I hadn't seen a single person in 24 hours so it didn't matter that I had no bathing suit or towel. I jumped in and got out quickly. It may have been about 70 degrees in the sun, but that water was cold as it was overnight. As I air dried I stared upstream when I saw a large bird flying towards me. It looks like a bald eagle but it's too far away to be sure. Then it turned 90 degrees to my right and revealed more defining features. The bald eagle capped off the day with just about all the stereotypical animals one will find in Yellowstone. I'm glad I did the hike.

    Pictures: I think some elk antlers with the top of its scull. Elk along with the rest of the deer family shed and regrow their antlers every season, but it appears that this elk is no longer with us. The moose. A beautiful bend in the river. The rattlesnake. Fall colors. The remains of a bison. Most likely the work of a grizzly bear.    En savoir plus

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  • VoyageurCoast to coast plus...
    Jour 30

    Bozeman And Back To Society

    29 septembre 2016, États Unis ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    After hiking in Yellowstone it was time to figure out my next move. I was hoping that the weather was going to be a little warmer or that the equipment I brought would allow me to be more comfortable in the temperatures I experienced in the Tetons and Yellowstone. Unfortunately I was not so lucky. In looking at the attitude and latitude of Glacier national park, I made the choice to come back to that park at a later date. I'm not thrilled about missing Glacier, but I don't hold up very well in the cold especially when I'm sleeping in a tent and can't warm up sufficiently at the end of the day. I'll see you soon Glacier, but not today.

    On with my plans. What do I do now? Reggie has told me about Bozeman Montana which happens to be a short drive from Mammoth Hot Springs, which is the northern most entrance to Yellowstone. I decide to go for it after making contact with Reggie and a friend of his in Bozeman. First stop is a coffee shop. I know, I'm not a huge coffee drinker, but the atmosphere in a coffee shop is exactly what I felt like. I was a little hungry, so I got a muffin and drank a coffee, used their Wi-Fi and sat in a comfortable chair for an hour or so. I also made use of a nice toilet that didn't have spider webs all over it. Ahh, the comforts of society.

    After coffee and a snack, I made my way to Paul and Keiley's house. Without realizing it, I had already met Paul at Reggie's bachelor party, but didn't know it was the same person. It was good to see a familiar face after several weeks on the road. Paul and Keiley greeted me outside with a beer in hand. I wasn't expecting it, but I really enjoyed that beer. After unpacking the bike and getting my things together, we went inside and hung out in their living room for a bit. They let me take a shower, which was many days overdue, and we went out for dinner. After some great conversation and good food, I was welcomed back to their house with a real mattress! Today was a good day. Another highlight of the day is the price of beer out here, it's dirt cheap compared to Boston and other cities.

    The next morning I had to figure out my next move. Paul and Kieley generously offered to let me stay another night or two but after checking the weather and looking at mileage, I didn't want to wait to get to Seattle. I packed up, said my goodbyes and hit the road. Special thanks goes out to Paul and Keiley, for hosting me. It makes a huge difference in my travels.

    Pictures: The view on the hike out of Yellowstone after two nights in the backcountry. The sign on the bulletin board at the trailhead.    En savoir plus

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  • VoyageurCoast to coast plus...
    Jour 31

    Idaho

    30 septembre 2016, États Unis ⋅ 🌫 17 °C

    After leaving Bozeman I decided to take two days to ride to Ryan and Christina's place near Seattle. The first day was a relatively short drive, only about 300 miles. First I made a necessary stop at the new day bakery to pick up breakfast, and some snacks for the ride. I actually drove by the bakery at first, but saw a sign that said fresh donuts and the place looked like a real bakery so I turned around. I'm glad I did cause they had some delicious confections inside. A scarfed down a cinnamon roll and then headed for the post office. Special thanks goes out to Mike Lambert for shipping me a resupply of dehydrated food I had made over the summer. I picked up the package which had some surprise jerky included. Just what I needed for a pick me up in between breakfast and dinner.

    Soon I was on the interstate. I was on a very familiar road, I-90, but I was in Montana where the speed limit is 80. I am welcomed to the road with large fast moving tractor trailers which are far in excess of the truck speed limit which is only 65 or 70. After jockeying for position, I settle in to the elevated speed limit. The road heads for Butte, Montana and I see signs for chain up areas ahead. Soon the road starts to climb and the large trucks fade away in the mirrors. Beautiful curves start to wind up into the mountains and then come back down on the other side. Despite the high speed limit this was probably my favorite stretch of interstate I've been on to this point. The road is smooth, windy with banked turns and appropriately marked corner entrance speeds. The scenery is also gorgeous.

    My goal for the day is to get to the Knife Edge Campground which is a free campsite with 5 spots located along the Lochsa river in Kooskia, Idaho. This part of the trip brings me up and over the Rockies. I get onto route 12 in Lolo, Montana and I see a strange sign. It says motorcycles use caution for the next 35 miles. The sign has a cryptic image of a motorcycle with arrows on either side of the rider. I find the "motorcycles use caution" signs to be redundant as I'm always using caution, but I appreciate the warning never the less. I then see signs saying that there won't be a gas station for about 90 miles. I look at how far I've gone on this tank and should have about 50 miles to spare which is enough to keep going despite elevation changes.

    The road begins to twist, and soon there are no more straight sections of road, it is one turn right after another. The other vehicles I see are mostly motorcycles and sports cars. I think I know what that cryptic sign meant, this is going to be a fun ride. Before I know it I've climbed to the top of the range and am on the border of Montana and Idaho. It is 5 or 6 o'clock (I'm uncertain because I think I'm right on a time zone border), and there is a visitor center that has just closed. I talk to a fellow rider who is headed the other way. We trade beta on the roads and wish each other safe travels. The path I am on now is one that Lewis and Clark blazed before there were roads or even detailed maps. Those guys had a real thirst for adventure. I come to a sign that says winding road next 99 miles, and the day continues to be a beautiful ride. This part of Idaho is absolutely beautiful. I am in Clearwater National Forest and this is the most scenic national Forest I've come across. Trail heads and now closed for the season campgrounds line the roadside. My backup plan should there be no sites left at the knife edge is to continue along the road till I find a suitable place to sleep. Luckily I arrive and there is one spot left. All the other campers are in gigantic RVs who look like they've been there all summer. I set up my tent and it's almost invisible compared to the RVs. Soon after my tent is up, a large truck pulls in, circles around once and leaves disappointed. If I had been 20 minutes later, that could have been me. It gets dark soon and I plan my next day. I decide to drive clear across Washington as some rainy weather is approaching. The long drive the following day encourages me to go to bed early.

    6:30, which I realized was really 5:30 arrived and I woke up bright eyed and bushy tailed. I pack up camp and hit the road before anyone else in the campground is awake or the sun is visible. I'm in a fairly deep valley so direct sunlight won't be for a few more hours. The road continues to wind and descend. It didn't seem all that cold out but my hands started to get cold from the wind chill. My heated grips heat my palms but my finger tips are numb. I stop on the side of the road to warm up my hands, and it's a great time to snap a few photos. I search for some breakfast but don't see anything along the roadway worth stopping for. Soon I'm in Lewiston, which is the biggest town I've seen that morning. I pull over and do a quick Google search, yielding a near perfect 4.9 star review of a bbq joint. Upon closer inspection, they are open for breakfast and I make a b-line for breakfast. I skipped oatmeal and decided to have one good meal to fuel the ride. It was a great choice. I also order a hot chocolate that comes with whipped cream on top. A perfect way to get rid of the chill in my hands. The online review was accurate. Breakfast was delicious and just what I needed.

    The national Forest in Idaho was lush with trees and a river. Eastern Washington looked like a dessert. Still beautiful, but a stark contrast from the morning. The roads for the first half of the day were a lot of fun, but they soon became straight, and dessert turned to irrigated farmland. Crops I have yet to see emerge from the landscape; onions and wine grapes. As the day goes on I get closer to Seattle and Enumclaw. More and more cars fill the roadway as I enter the Cascade range. Again I start to ascend, this time the temperature drops noticeably as I go into the last mountain range I'll cross going east to west. Another beautiful and green mountain range within a national Forest. I'll have to revisit these places when the weather is favorable.

    Before I know it the day is nearing its end and I've hit my first real traffic since Massachusetts. I can't say I was happy about it having left at 6am, and it's now about 6pm. The traffic is so bad that I can't get off the exit I wanted to. I go to the next exit and turn around after realizing that is the only way I can go unless I want to add another hour and a half to the ride. Upon reaching Ryan and Christina's home, I can finally relax. A long but productive day.

    Pictures: The Lochsa river. My favorite sign on the trip. More river. A much needed breakfast. The pancakes we not on the side, they came with the meal! Idaho is winning.    En savoir plus

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  • VoyageurCoast to coast plus...
    Jour 32

    Enumclaw

    1 octobre 2016, États Unis ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Enumclaw! The name says a lot. Friends from Northeastern (Ryan and Christina) who moved to the PNW some time ago moved to Enumclaw a few years ago to get out of the city and find a piece of land to call their own. I got wind of a barn project while on my way out to their house and offered to help while I was there. Upon arrival I met their friend Kevin who was a driving force for part of the project. Raising the barn a bit too make the walls straight, level out the roof line and pour a foundation under the barn. A project I was interested in to see how it was going to unfold. The property was huge compared to city dwelling. A large field out back with a big barn, a massive detached garage and a single level house. I was taken with the garage. A man cave which when fully functional could crank out projects which I can only dream of at this point.

    Hanging out with Ryan, Christina, and Kevin was a blast. We would work on the barn during the day, eat delicious food from chef Christina at night, talk and eventually play a dice game called farkle. The day I arrived it was partly cloudy. After that the sun decided to go on vacation. Aside from the lack of sun I really enjoyed Enumclaw. Soon it came time for me to fly back to Boston for Matt and Genevieve's wedding. Barn work progressed quickly and we finished the foundation slightly ahead of schedule. Before I went back to Boston I agreed to help put up new siding on the barn when I returned. After which there was going to be a birthday party on the coast with a bunch of people. Just like that I'd had the most plans I've had since the beginning of the trip.

    Pictures:
    Mount Renier from Ryan and Christina's yard. I think this was the only day I could see the mountain. A view from the plane on my way back to Seattle after the wedding. The Olympics are in the background.    En savoir plus

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  • VoyageurCoast to coast plus...
    Jour 36

    Back to Boston

    5 octobre 2016, États Unis ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    After a few days in Enumclaw I was soon on my way back to Boston for Matt and Genevieve's wedding. I was excited to see them get hitched as well as everyone who was going to be at the wedding.

    Before going into Boston, Andrew had offered to pick me up from the airport just after midnight, so I gladly accepted and spent the next day in Andover. He even took the day off so we could hang out. We started thinking about what to do on the day off. We decided to check out Nahant. I've only been to Nahant once in college and it wasn't during the day so it was cool to explore the peninsula. Northeastern has a lab out there which also happens to be an old gun installation from WWII. Pretty cool if you are looking for something to explore near Boston for a few hours.

    After getting back, Andrew, Amanda and I went out for dinner at the local Mexican joint. A delicious dinner with great friends!

    The next day was spent with the wedding party. We moved stuff around, prepared flowers, and went through a rehearsal at the church. It was fun for me but probably stressful for the bride and groom. So many things to get done, I'm not sure how they remembered their names as the end of the day. Speaking of the end of the day, we had dinner at branch line courtesy of Paul and Ann Babineau. Delicious food and drinks. Then we finished the night at the hotel bar before getting some much needed rest.

    Wedding day! A few more tasks to check off the list, but then it was time to get to the church. The ceremony was beautiful. I won't bore you with the details, typical wedding stuff, except it was Matt and Genevieve so you can imagine what it was like you weren't there.

    The next day brought brunch, and Mike McLinn's birthday! I lucked out and got to see him on his birthday which was a nice change of pace. The following day I went for a hike near Waterville valley with 15 friends! Definitely the biggest group of hikers in an unorganized event. The hike was amazing and it was great to see friends again.

    Special thanks to Mike Lambert and Sarah for letting me crash at their place and stashing my dehydrated food there. The next morning I was back on a plane to Seattle.

    Pictures: Boston from Nahant. Limo to the church. Mr McCann in fine form at the hotel after the wedding. Not sure how they expect keep things quiet with a vuvuzela in the lobby. Hiking with some of my favorite people. The foliage was also fine form. Sun bathing in October at the top of our hike.    En savoir plus

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  • VoyageurCoast to coast plus...
    Jour 49

    Portland, OR

    18 octobre 2016, États Unis ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Before I begin with Portland I did spend a few more days with Ryan and Christina putting up some siding. We continued to have delicious meals and visited a great brewery down the road. They even broke out some champagne the last night of my visit. Thanks again guys! That was fun.

    After Enumclaw I was going to head to Portland, but a storm over the weekend put a damper on the planned birthday party on the coast. I had planned on seeing Tom Bergeron so I had to turn north to spend the night with him. It was nice to go for a bike ride and drink some delicious beers with Tom. I didn't get to meet his new wife Megan, but I'll just have to come back!

    The next morning I made my way to Portland with a stop at the museum of flight in southern Seattle. The museum was cool and a good way to get out of the rain. After the museum I made my way to Portland. Just before getting into Portland it started raining hard. Just enough to get my gloves wet. This would be a common theme in the coming days.

    I stayed with Luke and Michelle for the next few days. We went out for a delicious dinner at the radio room which is right down the street from their house. They live in an great neighborhood, and an awesome house! I was there during the week so we just hung out at night. During the day Luke suggested that I check out the 4T trail which uses the train, tram, trail, and trolley. What an awesome trail. It starts in downtown Portland, takes you up to the zoo, and then you walk to the highest point in Portland on a wooded trail that looks like the island on Jurassic park. At the top you can see Mt saint Helen, Mount Hood, and a few others. There were a lot of clouds so I don't think I saw all the visible peaks. Then you take a tram down to southern Portland and the trolley takes you back to the start.

    Portland is a cool city! They also have delicious doughnuts. I made it my personal quest to sample different shops. Voodoo doughnuts wins for me even though it was the most well known and commercial. The next day it rained all day, so I had breakfast with Laura Totten! Great to catch up with her. After breakfast I decided to check out the arcade. An excellent idea (thanks for putting that seed in my head Tom B.). Time crisis II is just as fun as I remember.

    In the evening Luke, Michelle, and I went out for some food truck dinner. Portland has many of these beauties. I'm going to need to visit Portland again in the summer when it's less rainy. Thanks again for hosting me in Portland Luke and Michelle! Great to see you.

    Photos: Pike Place Market, an unusual break in the clouds and the sun was out. A view of Mount Hood while on the 4T trail in Portland. My favorite doughnut in Portland, the maple bacon bar. An awesome yet unusually placed house along the 4T trail. Great for the residents, but unfortunate for the landscape. The tram back down to Portland. Breakfast with Laura.    En savoir plus

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  • VoyageurCoast to coast plus...
    Jour 53

    Rain Rain, Is Here To Stay

    22 octobre 2016, États Unis ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    After leaving the sweet shelter of friends houses I ventured down the Oregon coast. Since arriving in Seattle, this was the first night in a tent since Idaho. Time to get back to it. I first ventured east to the Columbia River gorge. Hiked a short way up to check out some falls and then headed for the coast. Riding all day in a slight mist with little sun and low 60s upper 50s got to be pretty bone chilling. I got close to my planned camp for the night, Cape Lookout state park, and then the skies opened up. In a matter of seconds I became drenched. It was raining so hard that I was about to pull over, but it let up slightly and I was so close to the campground that I kept going. There was also no shelter to hide under. Upon arrival I asked a ranger about staying in a yurt, but they were full up. A tent site it was. I set up quickly and arranged my jacket and pants on my bike under my cover as best I could even though I knew they'd still be damp in the morning. I slept well and remained dry through the night, but all my gear was wet. Looking at weather forecasts all night, I decided that exploring the coast was not what I wanted to do. As long as it was raining, I wasn't going to have a lot of fun. The forecast did have a day without rain so I drove to southern Oregon the next day and snagged a cheap motel to dry out my gear in for the night. The coast was still beautiful and my eyes wanted to stay but my hands and feet longed for southern California. Half way through the next day I aim for Gualala CA. A quick stop in redwood national park and I decide to get the hell out of there before some heavy the next day. A childhood friend Sarah Welinsky caught wind of my trip and she and her fiance offered a bed for the night and a chance to catch up.

    Pictures: a waterfall in the gorge. Hug point, and my first view of the Pacific on this trip. All my gear which is dry-ish on the inside, but drenched in the outside. Overall I'm very happy with my pants and jacket. I stayed dry all day underneath those. A Julia Stoner approved beach at lookout park. A hiking trail along the coast. More investigation is needed here. I might be coming back for this. Midway through the day after the rain. The sun is out!    En savoir plus

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  • VoyageurCoast to coast plus...
    Jour 55

    Gualala!

    24 octobre 2016, États Unis ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    It's fun to say especially when it's pronounced incorrectly. The "G" is shy. Getting to Gualala was an adventure. Route 101 follows the Oregon coast, and then in California, south of redwood park route 1 begins. It immediately winds up and down a mountain for an hour or so till you get back to the coast. Then it continues to wind with a misleading 55mph speed limit. I spend most of my time in 3rd gear dropping into second fairly often. This road is fun! The day goes on, and I realize the last hour and a half of my ride will be in the dark. For the second time on the trip I break one of my rules; no riding at night. Unless I ninja camp in the expected heavy rain and wind, I have to keep going. I gas up and press on. The temp is dropping and I can sense the rain coming. As dusk arrives my visor becomes useless. The salty air condenses on the visor and what I thought was the vapor coming off the crashing waves during the day creating a coastal mist is just a hard to clean layer on my visor which becomes impossible to see through as night falls and headlights refract on the misty slime on the visor. The visor goes up and I hope all the bugs are asleep. It takes a few minutes for my tear ducts to adjust to the increased airflow in my face but soon I can see quite well. Quite well is a relative term as clouds block any light the moon and stars may have provided.

    My concentration level skyrockets as I continue to ride along route 1 into the darkness. I can hear the waves crashing to my right and I start to ride extremely conservatively. A missed turn on a motorcycle on a normal road and you stand a good chance of surviving. Route 1 is less forgiving. The road is in excellent condition however. Very few bumps and well marked center lines make this passage doable. I take the ride one turn at a time and am relieved when I arrive in Gualala.

    It's great to see Sarah and meet her fiance Charlie. She is about to move back to new Orleans so I arrive just in time to check out their sweet apartment right on the coast. Sarah makes an awesome chili for dinner despite having packed most of the spice weasel for the move. I sleep well and get ready for my approach into San Francisco. My bike has the best nights rest nestled in Sarah's garage! Thanks again Sarah and Charlie!

    Photos: view from Sarah's apartment.    En savoir plus

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