Nasbinals

I had a wonderful meal last night at Gite Les Sentiers Fleuris. The main course was sausage on a bed of rice, flavored with peppers and some spice I couldn’t identify. I Had a lovely conversation with my table. The patrons of the establishment presents the dinner with the air of authority of Martha Stewart. And I mean that in the most complementary sense.

The bedroom was a bit crowded. It was well appointed with a nice bathroom and a separate shower. It had a window that booked out onto the square. I didn’t mind the noise in the Square and left the window open for a fresh air. It’s common here for the temperature to go down to 50° after an 85° day I went to bed early and slept well.

Unfortunately, it’s not common in France to sleep with the windows open apparently. I noticed that they’re really aren’t screens like we have in the USA. Regardless, it got quite stuffy. I got up and opened the shower room to allow them fresh air into the bedroom. I went back to bed and settled for a bit. But the room became stuffy again and at three I got up and went downstairs into the common room and got a short nap there before I got an early start on my day.

I woke to the alarm. Both of them. One was to wake me. The other was to remind me of all the stuff I needed to gather before I left.

It was a beautiful day. I left the Gîte a little after 6 AM. The bar on the Square was just opening and I had a quick petite café. Fortified with this I had intended to just leave the town. But as I was walking, I noticed that there was a little sandwich shop that promised open at 6:30 AM. It did open on time, and I left well provisioned with a sausage croissant, and a chicken and egg sandwich.

There were very few people on the trail I saw almost no one until I got to the four corners (where there was snack shop that offered good cappuccino and some bananas). On my way to four corners, I was charmed by two pilgrims walking side-by-side, a mother and son singing lovely songs as they marched along.

It was a 27 km path today. At first it started up much like yesterday was very similar surroundings. Then two things changed. I noticed that there were lots of birch trees along the path. And the ground got progressively rockier until it was clear that glaciers had deposited House size stones, some piled like a Jenga tower. Locally the stones are known as, “La pépite des glaciers” (glacier nuggets?).

I arrived in Nasbinals around 1 PM. I would’ve been much earlier, but I made a very interesting detour. I walked off the marked path and search for a waterfall that was mentioned in a guidebook. As I was walking there, a car pulled up to me and asked me for directions to a waterfall. I said I was looking for the waterfall myself and I was following directions for hiking. They were hoping to drive to the waterfall which turns out later to be quite impossible. After trying to help them, find an alternate route, I I followed the guidebook instructions and got to the precise place where I could access the waterfall. But I didn’t have the courage to crawl under the fence that was blocking away. I meet to guardian angels walking their dogs, I asked them about the way to the waterfall. The man reassured me that he could get me there. We walked back down the path that I had so carefully followed. He lead us up a drive marked PRIVÉ (private). He then Guided me and my backpack under a Barb wire fence. And we took a walk across an open field and down into a gully where are the sound of falling water greeted me. I followed him around some trees and was amazed to see 100 foot waterfall tumbling from above into a cavern carved in the side of the hill as big as two basketball gyms. The water is obviously and it’s low and during the summer and must be quite a thundering presence during the winter and spring. Still, it was a marvel to behold, and I felt very blessed to be there. As we ascend it out of the grotto, I made my way up to the exact spot where I’d hesitated to travel, sharing photos with my guardian angels, returned to the path that took me to the town of Nasbanals. I grabbed a seat in the shade at the first bar that showed, loft down a big blonde, German beer and quickly fell asleep. This being friends, no one bothered me.

After my nap, I made my way to EGLISE SAINTE-MARIE. It’s a beautiful little Romanesque Church with a very active community, who welcome all pilgrims to visit. The kindness and sincerity led me to join the early evening “office” a little service of readings from the gospel and songs.

And now I have parked my bags in my non-descript Gîte and I’m waiting for a restaurant to begin service at 7:30 which seems to be the earliest they will serve around here. I’m looking forward to the potato dish that a special to this local. It is called “aligot.” today it is a a whipped potato that can stretch like in elastic. But originally, before the potato arrived on the continent , I learned it was cooked from bread and fresh tome cheese. The original recipe might give you an idea of the texture of the plate.

Bon appétit!Læs mere