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Via Podiensis July 16, 2026
  • Michael Worden
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  • Michael Worden

Via Podiensis July 16, 2026

This is what I’ll be carrying in my backpack for the next 90 days.
The Osprey Stratos holds 34 L. My load is 29 pounds with 2 L of water.
I’m carrying three changes of clothes two rain jackets, a a sleeping bag, liner, a headlamp and sunglasses. Read more
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    🇫🇷 La Romieu, France
    Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    La Romieu

    Yesterday in France ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    I’m very tired. I totally goofed. I left my pilgrim credential at my last lodging. My kind host, drove to my next stop and left the credential at the main café. I retrieved it from the café staff who ribbed me about my forgetfulness. I feel so blessed to be among such a nice people. . I hiked with a very nice French couple today. They tolerated my bad French. We had lots of fun talking along the way about our respective lives in the United States and France. We arrived in town. The café service was complete (Le service à café est complet) which is to say they had more reservations than they had capacity.

    But we did have some very fine cold drinks, which should keep us satisfied until dinner tonight. Our options for dinner might be limited. This is Sunday in August in France. I’m hoping at least one of the restaurants is open. If not, leftover fruit and sandwiches will have to serve (I ended up having the local version of bruschetta).

    The main reason to stop in this town is to visit La collégiale Saint-Pierre de La Romieu. It’s astonishing that this incredibly ambitious work of architecture and faith remains. It’s very difficult to explain. Standing may be 120 feet above a ground in a structure made entirely of stone by artisans hundreds of years ago. This is a remnant of the original structure which was severely damaged during the religious force but its grandeur remains.    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    Walking to Lectoure

    August 8 in France ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    I am leaving Saint-Antoine but the wonderful memories of my stay at Gîte Vox Gaudii remain. I am off to the next stop on the path, Lectoure. My hosts have secured for me a place to stay tonight there. And also secured a place in my heart.

    Cc and thank you for tuning into another exciting. “where is michael today?”

    It appears that there is an interruption to the path. I’m on some kind of detour. I don’t really understand its purpose, but I’m following the signs like a good pilgrim.

    It’s about 1 o’clock in the afternoon and I am at 12 miles already. So it looks like it’s gonna be another long one.

    Eglise Saint-Orens-et-Saint-Louis

    Château de Gachepouy 14th

    L’église Sainte-Blandine de Castet-Arrouy 14th    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    Lecture

    August 8 in France ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    I got here after about a 20 mile walk. It was longer than I hoped because the trail was diverted to another town. I saw the signs, but I didn’t really understand what the problem was. Being a good pilgrim however, I follow the signs.

    This is an incredible town. It just rises out of the surrounding hills. The approaches are so steep that it seems ridiculous to see cars suddenly appear as if they were falling from heaven when they come around the corner well above me as I plod up the road in the opposite direction.

    I’m staying in a perfect little cabin. It has almost every home convenience except for a stove and air conditioning. It even has a small laundry machine, but I didn’t even notice it until after I had done my laundry by hand as usual.

    The hostess showed me around. It’s obvious that she takes great pride and providing a beautiful secluded place to stay for the tired pilgrim.

    I walked about the Village tonight. There was her wedding reception in the Village Square. I stopped into the Cathedral earlier today, but did not make a visit since the wedding was proceeding.

    I take care care get a chance to go into the cathedral later in the evening. It was nearly deserted. Sadly their Mass is not available to me until 11 AM tomorrow (which is the state unavailable since I have a long walk ahead of me). I do regret that there was a Mass at a nearby convent of which neither the tourist bureau nor I was aware of.

    Having written that sentence, I suddenly have a sense of Miss Chipman, one of my high school, English teachers. I sense there is some rule of English grammar I might be skirting. SUSAN, can you help me out here? Does the ghost of my high school English teacher approve of my sentence structure?

    Regardless of the grammar, I I must find my pillow and go to sleep. Maybe I can get to the next time early enough for an evening Mass. Here’s hoping.    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    Auvillar and Saint-Antoine

    August 7 in France ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    This is a bit of a swashbuckler tale that is kind of appropriate since I’m in the land of the Gascone (à la the Three Musketeers). I don’t really have time to give a good accounting, but suffice to say that I ended up not finding accommodations in Auvillar and , with SUSAN’s help, I was able to get a place at a wonderful new Gîte, Vox Gaudi.

    My morning started quietly enough. I was walking along the edge of a pear orchard and heard a song, very beautiful, but I’d never heard before. My app identified it as a Red-billed Leiothrix, but the app advised me that that was unlikely. I did three more sound recordings, and that all came back to the same answer. Whoever was making this beautiful song, I was grateful for the company.

    I had a difficult time getting a reservation for tonight. I’ve been getting a little slack about doing them in advance. I probably should be a little more attentive. It could be that some accommodations are closed for August holiday in France. When I stopped for breakfast in the next town, I planned to start looking for likely places to stay for the next couple of days. Unfortunately, the café wasn’t serving breakfast or lunch at the hour. I was there. I got a good crème café, bought some dried fruit and nuts at the local grocery store, and that caught me through the rest of the day.

    I need to tell more about this story. I need to tell you how kind the hosts were tonight to make a wonderful meal of pork and red wine sauce, and mashed potatoes. I have to tell you about all the fun. We had learning each other stories and how we came to be at the table together tonight. I have to tell you how SUSAN and Emily have been working with spreadsheets and Internet to help me make a better plan for shorter hikes. But that can’t be now because I need to go to sleep. Breakfast is at 6 o’clock tomorrow and I have to backtrack to see a beautiful little church before I start my 22 km march!    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    Moissac jour de repos (rest day)

    August 6 in France ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    I set out to walk the canal up to Saint Martin. Instead, I saw a path off of the left rising straight up the side of the hill. The hill was well vegetated and I couldn’t see the top. So I decided to walk up the hill and found a most beautiful view at Le point de vue du Calvaire à Moissac. Only from this height, could I appreciate how large the Village is and the relationship between the Abbey, the markets, and the canal.

    During the visit to the Abbey, I spoke with the greeter. She told me that the windows in the church were designed by Marc Chagal. I spent an hour in the little chapel next to the altar. The sunlight from the window was very beautiful.

    L’Eglise Saint Martin is a medieval church. It was built on a former Gallo-Roman bathhouse as evidence by the underfloor heating system) discovered during an archaeological dig. Its famous murals (depicting the life of Christ) date from the late 15th century. Sadly,

    The church is very fragile as is common for such ancient treasures. Tours are very limited and scheduled on a fixed schedule well in advance. So I will have to content myself with a well-planned visit next time.

    The exterior the church is pretty weathered. It’s a miracle that it’s still here. The trains serving the region run on tracks less than 60 feet from the rear of the Church.    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    Moissac

    August 5 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I was up early this morning for a wonderful breakfast at Gîte Les Figuiers. It’s this just below. Lauzerte, perhaps a 10 minute walk to the town square. They are very nice couple and they have a purpose-built gîte for welcoming, pilgrims, including A, wonderful dining room and commercial kitchen. The place is clean and orderly, everything you could want from a pilgrim accommodation.

    I have breakfast in the dining room., The typical fair of coffee, bread, butter, and yogurt. I got some pictures of sunrise from the dining room windows. I really do appreciate morning sunlight.

    The path to Moissac brought me back up through Lauzerte. It’s a typical pilgrim mistake to leave the path tired the evening before without marking exactly where the path picks up again to leave town. I am a slow learner and got an extra tour of Lauzerte before I reconnected with the path and headed off to Moissac.

    It was 11 km to the first town that would offer food and drink. I arrive too early for lunch at Durfort-Lacapelette. So I settled for a sandwich complet (a favorite of travelers)i half a baguette, sliced down the middle and filled with ham, Emmental cheese, hard-boiled egg , tomatoes, lettuce, and mayonnaise.

    Leaving the Village, I crossed some orchards and sunflower gardens. I heard the pretty song of the common golden oriole.

    I’m met a nice French couple and we shared some time on the path today. It’s always interesting to learn another person’s perspective. They pointed out that a French flag, we passed, had the Cross of Lorraine. This is a special flag that was the symbol of free France during World War II and also signifies that a residence shelter Jews from deportation during the war.

    It was a hard walk today. This morning we started with cloud cover and cool breezes. As the day wore on the sun got stronger and I really labored for the last hour and a half of the walk.

    I was a little bit discouraged, coming into Moissac. The entrance to the city seemed like a very ordinary 20th century Village.

    I was very wrong. But first I had to check into my lodging (L’escale du bonheur) and perform my my pilgrims duties of showering, putting on clean clothes, and laundering today’s dirty clothing on the line to dry.

    With my chores done, I stepped outside and walked an entire block before I realized that I was next to a canal (le canal des deux mers). The canal is formed from the waters of the Tarn and Garone Rivers (recall at the Lot River emptied into the Garone?). The system via a 413 Km series of canals and rivers joins the Mediterranean and the Atlantic oceans. The first of the canals (Canal du Midi) was started in 1667, commencing Toulouse. the Canal de Garonne completed the link to the Atlantic Ocean in 1865.

    And I had to walk about four blocks up the street where my lodging are located to get to a UNESCO Heritage site, L'Abbaye Saint-Pierre de Moissac. This monastery dates to the early 9th century and was founded/patronized by Louis the Pious, son of Charlemagne. I happily arrived there just in time to hear the nuns who lived at the Abbey sing the Mass.

    There’s so much more as your share but my pillow calls and I will probably stay another day in this town to make time to explore and write about this trip    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    Lauzerte

    August 4 in France ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    I arrived at my accommodation for this evening.just before 7 PM I skipped dinner because I had a great lunch.at Montcuq (a monster Caesar salad with chicken). I went straight to laundry, waited the 27 minutes for the cycle to run, and hung up my clothes on the line outside. Then I made a bee line up the hill to see the town.

    I was really excited to see the town. Coming over the hill into the valley that the town dominates, Lauzerte rises dramatically. according to the history recorded on the placard near the city square, Lauzerte’s name comes from the word “Lacerna” which means “lamp.” It is certainly the city on the hill that shines its light on the entire valley.

    Lauzerte sits on hill on the site of a former Gallic settlement. This hill’s name dates to 1000AD. The city we see today was built in the twelfth century looks quite different from the organic formation of medieval cities, likeMontcuq it’s actually a planned city. It was designed to occupy an important commercial and strategic position. The planned city is called a castenau because it was protected by a castle included in the plan.

    Église Saint Barthélemy (Church of St. Bartholomew) is a surprise. Almost nothing of the 12th century church is evident today. The church was rebuilt, using stones from another church and local houses. During the rebuild, the church‘s axis was shifted 90°. So the organ and the choir sit at a 90° angle to the main altar.

    I finished the day taking pictures of the town and the people who live here. God provided a wonderful sunset and I tried to take full advantage of it.

    I have another long hike tomorrow breakfast is served at 6 AM and I still have my clothes to collect from that line in the morning. I’m gonna have to sign off a little to bed.    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    Montcuq

    August 4 in France ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Today we are headed to Lauzerte. I’d hope to break up this stage into two sections. There are two really nice villages: Montcuq and Lauzerte. Unfortunately, there was no accommodation available. So I’m going to try to cover two towns in one day.

    This portion of the chemin features little stone signs with quotes from authors, dear to the French. This one is my thought for the day. I found it about 2.4 K short of Montcoq.

    Happiness is often the only thing one can give without having, and it is by giving it that one acquires it.
    — Voltaire

    On the way to Montcoq, we travel through some smaller towns and forested lands. This region features, sharp cliffs with brows that overhang, the cliffs like the eaves on a house. Sometimes these cliffs are completely undermined so that caves form, sometimes with springs inside.

    Entering Montcuq, you are greeted by L’Eglise Saint Privat as you descend into town. It’s a nice little church with a chapel that features relics of Sainte Philomène.

    I was surprised to find that the main church was actually the larger Eglise Saint Hilaire that’s located on a hill farther west in town.

    Coming from the eastern to town, I didn’t notice that the town is dominated by the ruins of a tower of a 12th century castle, Château de Montcuq. The castle was destroyed and rebuilt several times during the religious wars until it was left in the state, we find it today by the wars with the Hugonauts.

    Heading west out of Montcuq, we get the advantage of seeing the medieval layout of the town for the first time. I regretted leaving town, but I have a long day of ahead of me.

    As we as we move west and south towards Lauzerte, we are surprised to find Église Saint-Pierre de Rouliac, which feature is another version of the black Virgin Mary. I’ve gotta do some research on this topic to learn why it’s so prominent in this part of France.

    There were lots of possible diversions to other interesting places along this portion of the path, but I had to press on.    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    Lascabanes

    August 2 in France ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    This is our last view of the Pont Valentré. We also say goodbye to the Lot River. The Lot continues west to its mouth where it joins the Garonne River. Our path takes us father south towards Spain.

     I am near Labaside-Marnhac. I just had my first stop that felt like a Camino stop in Spain. A busy little café that doubles has the post office and the grocery store. A lively pretty shopkeeper who chats and makes wonderful coffees. The generous Pain aux raisins is wonderfully tasty. I feel restored.

    And there’s my marker for the next stop on the path.

    I had a great stop at a little café today. One of the features of the hospitality on the path is that the Gîte may not be open when you arrive. These are very small operations. The people running them might still be preparing for your evening stay or might be working at other jobs. You may arrive before they’re ready. Pilgrims are always looking for places where they can hang until their accommodations are ready. Sometimes a picnic table under a shady tree in the village square or a quiet space at the local church will serve. I found a perfect little café. A wonderful hostess made me a salad and served wonderful syrup water flavored with ginger. It was so lovely. As I was leaving, she invited me to select a little quote card from a tray she presented. It was a chapter from Isaiah that I found particularly inspiring.

    On today’s posting, I have to get myself an incomplete. I haven’t taken a picture of the wonderful place where I’m staying (Au chemin de Traverse in LENDOU EN QUERCY) or recorded the wonderful food I ate, or summarized the great conversation I had with my host, Hans. He is a devout atheist, and a great admirer of enlightenment philosophers. As you can, imagine, we had a great time talking. I feel so blessed.

    And thanks to my wonderful wife for taking care of the daily bumps of life back in Alexandria while I’m out here walking the path. Thank you so much, SUSAN.    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler
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    Cahors Rest Day

    August 2 in France ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Mon jour de repos. My day of rest.

    What does a pilgrim do on his day off? That’s easy. The pilgrim does his laundry, goes to church, takes a walk in the city and has a nice salad at Le restaurant Qualité Gourmande. The proprietor remembered me from yesterday. I left my walking stick there overnight. I must’ve been very tired. I left that stick behind twice.

    The public squares in this town often feature the work of a single artist, Marc Petit. He appears to work in iron and favors gaunt spectral figures. In the age, old consideration of the question: “what is the nature of art?” I have to say that I don’t know how to think about art except as an expression of the artist’s intent. Did the artist express themselves well? Did they achieve what they intended? I suppose only the artist can answer that question. As the viewer of the work, I can tell you my response to it is that I find it a bit cold and alienating. Emily has probably thought more about this than me. I’d really want to know what she thinks.

    La cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Cahors is an unusual mix of architectures. It’s a series of domes sitting on ribbed vaults. It reminds me of a church we saw in Sicily (maybe the Chirch of San Caaldo in Palermo?). Maybe SUSAN has a better recollection…

    Another odd thing about the church. The altar is facing east as would’ve been traditional in the old days, but the tympanum (usually an ornate carving in an arch over the main door) is on the north west side, kind of at a 90° angle to the main altar. These carvings survived because they were covered by a porch or some other structure. They were rediscovered in the 1800s and are well preserved as a result of their accidental protection.

    The west entrance directly opposite the altar (underneath the choir and the major Rose window) is no longer in use. The carvings over the unused entrance were probably victims of the war of religion.    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler
    These stamps represent places are visited on the chemin.

    Cahors

    August 1 in France ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Lots of walking today: 23.5 miles/ 38 km / 53,000 steps. It could’ve been a little shorter, but I made a little detour. I wanted to see the convent at Vaylats. It’s an order of Sisters who dedicate their service to the pilgrims who walk the path.

    I arrived hoping to meet the Sisters and see the convent. Unfortunately, I arrived just as they were commencing their cleaning in preparation for the pilgrims tonight. So my next walk will have to plan a nice stop here so I can spend more time.

    The walking path is quite beautiful. The footing is very easy. My sore feet are very grateful.

    I was sorry to say goodbye to my German fellow pilgrim. It’s a long day and it’s going to get hot. She was intent upon a brisk walk to her next stop while I tend to meander and take pictures.

    I met a nice Canadian couple on the path at a shelter at noon. We stopped and shared our stories of walking the Camino Frances in Spain. We also tried to compare our experiences here in France on the chemin with those in Spain. We both agreed that the Camino Franis experience is more community driven. People tend to move together groups that gather informally. The, French chemin is a more solitary experience. The stages are much longer. As a result, the groups tend to splinter into singles and couples. While we were talking, a bold European robin shared the shelter with us.

    I’m walking down these wooded paths with a nice shade. I’m paying attention to the bird sounds I hear. I definitely heard some kind of woodpecker activity. The Merlin app suggest a. Great spotted woodpecker.

    6:23 PM. I’m checking at my hotel and if not a nice little bar/restaurant for a salad. Feeling very blessed.

    I had an extra mile and a half on my walk today. I came across the bridge to the city. A welcome committee greets everyone including me. I stopped in and spoke with them and got a stamp on my passport. And then walked off without my walking stick. It was a character builder, but I passed that test.

    Cahors is a fine little city. It to sits on the Lot River. There are beautiful bridges, crossing the river which is bordered by beautiful parks here in the city.

    The hostel where I am staying is essentially an inexpensive version of the Eklo budget hotel, where we stayed in Montpelier France. It has a laundromat in the building, so I am well pleased

    Tomorrow is a rest day. This looks like a good city to explore. I am looking forward to rest.

    .    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler
    21332

    Varaire

    July 31 in France ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    I had a great encounter with the friendly citizens of the town today. The man at the boulangerie patiently explained the different pastries he had to offer today. And he was very kind to suppress his disappointment that I did not choose one of the more exotic options and went with good old Apple. On my way past the church, a group of men were sitting having coffee together. It’s clear that this is their daily institution and that they know each other well. They called me over to make sure I got the stamp for the church fill in French name.

    They have a new Saint Just Minted in 2024. Saint Marie-Annette Pelras (Sister Marie-Henriette de la Providence

    The river is lined with one of my wife’s favorite trees, the Sycamore. It’s a variety of Sycamore called London Plane (Platanus hybrida). It’s favored because of its ability to adapt to the difficult conditions of urban life.

    Galliac at 10:30. Nice church of Saint Juliene and a castle-like structure on the edge of the village which is called the Château.De Gaillac.

    There is lots of evidence of Paleolithic history in Dordogne. I took a picture of a local.Dolmen. It’s a simple structure of three slabs two vertical and one laying across the two vertical. I put my hat and walking stick in front of it to give a sense of it size. Oddly enough, I found a rock that was shaped like a ax head. It was far too fresh to be authentic. Perhaps somebody was doing a demonstration during a tour of how stones were made into tools.

    I’m walking without pain today and I’m grateful. Yesterday I woke up with my right ankle feeling a bit tender. And it steadily got worse throughout the day. I imagine that’s how Jacob felt after a wrestling the angel all night long.(which is to say tired from bad sleep and now I walk funny , too). All right My bum ankle plus my poorly planned cross-country track through the woods of Dordogne made for a long day. I found a pharmacy at the end of yesterday’s journey. I got aspirin and immediate relief. The ankle seems to be holding well today.

    Stopped in for a late lunch at Limogne-En-Quercy. It’s a simple crossroads village. The one bar/restaurant that was open offered one plate, simple salad with broiled potatoes, and La dinde (the French version of turkey). It tastes like . . . Chicken.

    In the Gîte at 4:30 pm. Glad to see a friendly face of a German lady who has traveled parallel with me often on over the day. She’s a vocational teacher from Northern Germany. She speaks excellent English and for some reason I keep lapsing into French. Her husband was a distance away. They see each other every other weekend. It’s always interesting to hear how other people arrange their lives and make themselves happy and marriage.    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler
    1

    Faycelles and Carjac

    July 30 in France ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    I had a good breakfast this morning at the hotel where I stayed, the hotel de Bain. I liked the staff. They were cheerful and kind. As I left I sang the Karol Burnett song, “.I’m so glad we had this time together.” face smiled and waved goodbye. Singing this tune made me think of our family friend Micah who enjoys when we do this routine
    There was a little confusion on the path leaving town. I met a couple of nice Belgian women and we puzzled over the problem until a nice lady came out to direct us the correct way.

    Which bring me to the idea of kindness on the pilgrimage. People go out of their way to look out for us pilgrims. They’re very kind and helpful with directions. I have benefited many times from these guardian angels.

    And the pilgrims can be very kind with each other. That’s one of the Belgian ladies let us up the the path out of the river valley, we came across an older woman from Marseille, who was hiking with a roller cart for her backpack. The path was a bit rough for this kind of car. I think it’s fair to say, but the lady from Marseille was a good cheer, but was struggling a bit. The Belgian lady gently lifted the wheels and carried the sack up the hill with the lady from Marseille. She did it in such a way as to not diminish the Lady of Marseille. That kind of kindness is humbling for me.

    Random notes:
    1. I took an accidental detour through Béduer, Fontieu, Surgies Haut, and Combe de Salgues. As a result, I got a view of a 13th century castle called appropriately enough The Château de Béduer.

    2. I came across what has to become an Internet legend. It was a note by the entrance to a home. It had a picture of a dog called Suivrie. The sign cautioned pilgrims not to let the dog follow because it becomes lost. I think the dog’s name is almost exactly the French verb for follow, “suivre.” I was so amused that I forgot to take a picture of the sign.

    3. I can understand why the French are having difficulty fighting fires. It’s obviously very dry right now. I came across some big tooth maples (érable à grandes dents) with their red autumn colors.

    4. I made a bad decision at the end of a long and tiring hike. I decided to follow a Google direction to save 30 minutes on a hiking trail. It turned out to be an almost complete google hallucination. The Google map directed me town road that gave way to a firm room. Nothing surprising there. That’s the story of following GR 65.

    What was novel, the farm wrote completely gave out. I could see the outlines of the typical farm road, lined by two sets of stone walls. Having already committed down this “ shortcut,” I pushed on rather than retreat.

    Big mistake. This is the Dordogne region. It’s honeycombed with mines, caves, and cliffs that drop precipitously. I finally gave up when I came to one of these cliffs (I bet somebody uploaded a land record that shows the road from many years ago, and no one checked to see if it was still there)).

    I backtracked looking for potential paths, and looked into a tiny hiking path that took me down the shoulder of this hill. That was the only way to get to my destination. As I’ve said for God looks out for fools and I am living proof.

    5. Tonight’s stay features, a nice simple, clean Gîte: Gîte Le Pèlerin. One drawback. A father and son are listening at the loudest possible level to a French melodrama of some sort that features will come play than any noire crime novel.

    6 I had a simple dinner at a bar/Café on the Lot River. Le Nautic Bar Restaurant. Good bar fare including my salad featuring chicken, thick cut French bacon (lardons)

    7. I know I’ve been writing a lot about the Lot River. It runs wider and deeper here. This is the first time I saw people using speed, boats, and water skiing in inland France.

    8. Nineteen and Thirty-one. The numbers of miles and kilometers I hike today.

    Note: I’ll have to upload photos later. No Wi-Fi connection at this time.    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler
    Ce fichier et sa description proviennent de Wikimedia Commons.

    Rocamadour rest day

    July 29 in France ⋅ ☀️ 38 °C

    I’m taking a day off today. I’m sitting in the station waiting for the train ride that will take me to Rocamadour. The trip will take 40 minutes.

    I’m starting off from Figeac and will post a couple of pics from this morning. I had breakfast at the hotel. It’s the usual fare: café crème, demi-baguette, butter, jam, plain yogurt, and applesauce.

    This is my second trip to the Dordogne Valley. This is the second trip I failed (due to my ignorance ) to plan to visit this town. So I’m using my day off to correct this problem.

    If I walk another path in the future, I will definitely incorporate Rocamadour in my plans. This place promises to be so rich that I cannot imagine ever feeling like I have seen and appreciated everything it has to offer.

    Rocamadour has an old saying:: “Houses on the river, churches on the houses, rocks on the churches, castle on the rock.” And it really does sum it up. Each layer seems to sit vicariously on top of the next.

    I think it would take a week to really get a sense of all the history here. It’s hard to comprehend that I’m sitting on the edge of a cliff that plunges almost 400 feet to the river below and on the entire face of the valley, the slope is jammed with streets, houses, shops, churches, and monuments. There’s so much going on at every level I don’t think I could really do much more than to post some pictures and leave here in the hope of returning to spend more time.

    There are many attractions for the pilgrim. Probably the most significant is the sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin Mary. The black virgin is very simple but she smiles warmly with Jesus sitting on her knee. It appears that the crowns were actually added later. The church dates the 12th century, It has been drawing humble souls like me and the famous including: Saint Louis IX of France, Saint Dominic, Saint Bernard of Clairvaux, and Henry II of England,    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    Walking to Figeac

    July 28 in France ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    It’s about 749 km from Le Puy En Velay (where I started) to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (where this path, and many of the pilgrim paths in Europe, converge). I have covered 254 km so far.

    Today the goal is Figeac. I started at my wonderful Gîte which is located just across the road from the Chapelle Saint-Roch. The Chapelle has a great view of the River Valley if you open the gate to the left of the main entrance.

    After a short walk on the road, I took the steep path down into Livenhac-Le-Haut. The path goes right through the middle of town. It’s a good size Village, but surprisingly quiet and none of the cafés or other services were open.

    From here, it’s about a 5 km walk to Montredon and the Chapelle Notre Dame. The café, where I stopped to get a ham and butter sandwich on baguette was out of water for some reason. I donated some of my water from my backpack and got a free coffee.

    It seemed like a very long walk to Saint-Felix, the next to last major stop before arriving at Figeac. The church located here features a very rustic Tympanum and the only one I’ve ever seen that is centered on the temptation of Adam and Eve by the serpent.

    I made a quick diversion to Saint-Jean-Mirabel. This little church is often skipped by pilgrims because it requires a little diversion from the main path, but I thought it was worth it.

    Finally, Figeac. This is a beautiful little town again located on a beautiful river, the Célé. I am splurging on my rest day. My hotel room looks out over the river. I crossed the river to enter the old city where I was happy to do a complete laundry of all my clothes in the luxury of automatic washers and dryers.

    I took my bag of clean clothes with me and walked up the steep hill through the main square to visit Église Notre-Dame-du-Puy (translated the Church of Our Lady on the Hill/Peak?). Trust me. It was well named. The church was cool and quiet so I actually got some significant time for prayer and reflection in this beautiful setting.

    To not completely lose the pilgrim spirit, I grabbed a chef salad from the local grocery store, along with a baguette, an apple and some chèvre. I washed it down with my new favorite cocktail substitute, Schweppes Agrume Aux Saveurs. It’s just basically a citrus flavored soda. I’m not giving myself liberty for the local wine and beers until my sleep schedule gets squared away. I used to easily switch time zones when I was young, but I think as I’ve aged, it’s gotten harder.

    Lastly, for my wife who loves movies, Charles Boyer was born in Figeac and Louis Malle set his 1974 movie here. “Lacombe, Lucien,“ was a World War II drama that was nominated for the Oscar for best foreign film.    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    Livinhac-Le-Haut

    July 27 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today I’m gonna try posting as I walk. Let’s see how this works.

    7:50 AM. I left Conques following GR 65 hiking trail that makes up most of this Chemin/Path. At the top of the ridge I’m leaving the Lot River Valley behind. I’ve already got out my backpack rain cover and I have a poncho standing by to cover me if a rain truly sets in.

    I don’t mind walking in the rain. And it would surely improve the air quality from the fires to the south. But I have developed the beginnings of what may be my first pilgrim blister on my right big toe. I put a Band-Aid on it. And it might harden into a callus. Rain walking certainly won’t help it. I guess I’ll just leave that with God as to which is better, breathing or blisters.

    Well, that didn’t take long. It’s starting to rain and I’ve got out my new poncho.

    It’s about 9:30 AM and I’m leaving Noailhac. It’s a pretty little town. I stopped at a little shop for homemade pastry and some water. The lady was a very elegant host. And that was reflected in her choice of furnishings for her café. She welcomes guest in a room appointed like someone’s front parlor. The padded chairs and precious side tables make one feel like you’re sitting down the cottage of a grand dame. I felt a little self-conscious sitting in my wet gear on her beautiful furniture, but she insisted.

    I visited a little chapel to Saint Roche. Saint Roche looks very much like St James except Saint Roche always has a little dog at his side.

    Leaving the chapel, I meet an extraordinarily kind Belgian young woman. We had a good walk together to Decazeville. We visited a the church in the town center. She went on her way to.Livinhac-Le-Haute while I stayed behind to eat. She was very patient with my French and she spoke excellent English. And a good time was had by all.

    I continued on my way to my Gîte which is located between Decazeville and Livinhac-Le-Haute. My place is very informal. My host was not home when I arrived. He gave me instructions on how to let myself into the house and find my room. I took a quick shower and did some laundry. Leaving my laundry to dry in the line in the sun, I rejoined my Belgian friend from this morning and walked down into the Lot River Valley into Livinhac-Le-Haute.

    I’d hope to be able to get a quick meal and have a cold drink before returning to my Gîte but this is Monday, and France is “closed.” So I visited the nice church in the city center, and then turned around to walk back to my Gîte. Walking back was a fair distance but I had not appreciated the difference in altitude until I my ears popped three times as I was climbing back up to my Inn. .

    Tonight we had a lovely dinner with our host at Gîte Le Chemin St-Roche. we started with a salad of a marinade of fresh tomatoes on a bed of shredded cabbage and onions with a shredded carrot topping. One of the Irish guests asked for butter, explaining it’s not very French, but I’m from Ireland.

    The main course was L’ Estofinade (or L’Estofinado). It’s a local traditional recipe consisting unsalted dried cod (rehydrated), potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, and walnut oil. It looks much like our mashed potatoes, but with a mild fish waiver. The side of green bees. Dessert was a yogurt like cream, flavored with local honey,made by bees from sweet chestnut flowers and topped with a sweet reddish brown powder ( le spéculoos ou spéculos?).    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler
    Detail. Christ enthroned at Tympanum's center. The elect to his right angels to right.
    Detail. Christ enthroned at Tympanum's center. The elect are to his rightAbove Christ's head, we see the cross of the crucifiction, Jesus, King of the Jews,At the foot of Christ's throne, Saint Michael, the Archangel and Lucifer weigh souls.the Virgin leads St. Peter, Hermit Dadon (founder), and Charlemagne (donated land)On bottom right, Satan presides over the damned tortured in hellOn the bottom left, Father Abraham in the new Jerusalem

    Conques: Abbey Church of Sainte-Foy

    July 26 in France ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    This is special. I will provide captions to form most of the explanation of this historic Church entrance called the Tympanum.

    After that, I’m also posting some photos of the church from the upper parts of the main church to give you a sense of its size and the weight of its architecture.

    To the people who built these sacred spaces so beautifully and so strong, you have my admiration. Those who entered such a place must’ve thought it was a miracle but so much stone could rise up so close to heaven. Today, I understand a little bit of architecture and physics. The ripped vaults and the buttresses. I still think it’s a miracle. And and hundreds of years later, after your laborers, people like me, by some miracle, come and stand in wonder of your faith in God and the holy places you bequeathed to us.    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    Conques : premières impressions

    July 26 in France ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    I was so tired yesterday. I don’t think I could really give a good account of how beautiful and magical this place is. So, I’ll just post some photos that I took yesterday and today.

    Maybe I can add some notes later today. It’s so strange to be sitting quietly in a café above the Abbey. The friendly proprietor serves his customers and takes deliveries from the procession of vendors who bring tablecloth or melons. The vendors in turn become customers and sit and talk and have a café or read the newspaper. It’s a much different pace of life here.

    . I attended the Matin service and it was so beautifully religious order here (Premonstratensian Order). I think their religious order focuses on hospitality for pilgrims (les pèlerins) like me. I feel very welcome here.

    The 10 o’clock Belle just rang. No more eating until after the 11 o’clock Mass.

    The mass was beautiful. The religious, who is the head of the music, given an introduction to the mass and the way the sung at this Abbey. It was nice to get a chance to participate, knowing what was coming.

    I recorded a Gregorian chant that religious sang at the Offertory. It was so beautiful.    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    Conques

    July 25 in France ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Today: 53,634 steps, 24.4 miles, 39 Km (208 total kilometers over the last eight days). The goal for today: Abbey Church of Sainte-Foy (Abbatiale Sainte-Foy de Conques).

    I left Estaing little before 6:30 AM. Following the pattern of these daily stages, we begin with steep climbs out of River valleys where towns tend to be located. Often times the path in and out of the valleys are dry river beds. Between the flowing water and the footpath traffic, they quickly become a sheet of rock with loose gravel. Difficult terrain at best.

    Today was a little different because much of the path was on paved roads. I was nervous enough about taking on such a long hike with a full backpack, but I literally double timed down many of the hills and “rested” on the ascents.

    I left my overnight stay without any food or coffee. This was brave. We are walking through really isolated country. There’s no place to pick up a sandwich or a cup of coffee for the most part.

    Breakfast came at around 11 AM at Golinhac. I shared lunch (two café cream and a goat cheese, lettuce and tomato sandwich) with a French student of the English language who is planning a career in acting. I regaled him with some of my stories and an American accent that he was interested in (or was polite enough to pretend to be).

    I bid him farewell when some of his friends joined him at the café where we were eating. That’s when I started getting serious about trying to make it to Conques. Many of my fellow pilgrims, doubted the decision only a little more than I. But I’ve heard so much about the history and beauty of Conques that I pressed on at the double time all the way to Espeyrac where I had a croque monsieur.

    The walk to Sénergues was quiet except for texting to folks back home. I arrived on their festival day. I cut through town in a bit of a hurry, but I did stop and visit the Église Saint-Martin. The main structure we see today is the 16th century church but the foundations are a credit to Louis, the son of Charlemagne. I was greeted by a friendly cat, but the local donkey ran along side, braying angrily until I was well past.

    Lastly, I repeated the difficult descent down the valley wall were Conques rises at the confluence of the Conques and Ouche Rivers.

    I’ll have more to say tomorrow about Conqes and my first communal meal at the Abbey. I have a rest day here tomorrow. And tonight I want to be sure to take advantage of the presentation on the sculptures in the church at 8:30 and the organ recital that follows.    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    Estaing Part 2

    July 24 in France ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Continuing my walk, I visited the Église de Saint-Pierre-de-Bessuéjouls (Celtic for: “clearing in the Wood”). This is a UNESCO world Heritage site. I took lots of pictures. They’ll tell the story better than my words. I was especially touched by the petite chapelle in the attic of the church which is accessed by crazy narrow set of stairs.

    Finally arrived at my stage tonight. Estaing is beautiful. As I approached along the river. I reached the 10 by crossing second beautiful bridge you’ll see pictures of. I happen to catch some itinerant Dominicans who provided an unscheduled Mass at the gothic-style church, Saint-Fleuret. The music was sung by the Dominicans and it was so beautiful. I’m would like to go back for their evening service tonight but I have a long hike tomorrow so I’m getting back to my room and getting ready for bed.

    I hope to up upload photos later tonight and add photos to yesterday’s entry.    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    Estaing

    July 24 in France ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Up early today. I skipped coffee and breakfast, leaving with only two bottles of water (chilled overnight), a half a bag of raisins, and a little regret for missing some places I wanted to visit yesterday. I went “off path” by accident—one is never “lost” on a pilgrimage.

    Today was going to be a hot one. I got up early and ready my gear. I walked to the medieval gate and waited by the church (one of my best opportunities from yesterday) in the dark. The blurred photos I’m uploading represent homage to missed opportunities.

    I crossed the River Lot on an old historic bridge and continued west and south to the first stop of the day: the Vierge Notre-Dame de Vemus, it sits atop a rock on the highest point in the valley through which River Lot runs.

    Then I descended to the outskirts of Espalion—another town on the list of France’s 20th most beautiful Villages. Before heading to town, I stopped one of the two ancient churches on tap for today: the beautiful little Church called ÉGLISE SAINT-HILARIAN-SAINTE-FOY. It’s an 11th century Romanesque Chapel dedicated to a local Saint who win legend is associated with Charlemagne.

    Then I proceeded into Espalion proper along the river walk. This is a ridiculously beautiful place on any day, but today was market day so there was lots of activity. And it features one of the two most beautiful bridges that I visited today. Looking for breakfast, I came across really nice Church in the center of town.

    After stopping at the church, I had breakfast at the café commerce. The kitchen was not really in service, but the proprietor served up a wonderful quiche and salad with great café crème. As my wife says, hunger is the best season. I ate the meal with the relish.

    Up next on the following footprint is a description of a visit to Eglise de Saint-Pierre-De-Bessuéjouls (a UNESCO world heritage site) and the continuation of my day on the way to Estaing.    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    Saint-Come-d'Olt

    July 23 in France ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    UPDATED PICS.

    It’s a 20+ mile walk from Nasbinals to Saint-Come-d'Olt. I had a lovely greeting in Nasbinals. The local priest and a group of About seven lay volunteers greeted us warmly.

    I left Nasbinals early in the morning fueled by the warm greeting I had received at the church and a quick petite café from the kind gentleman who was opening the bar in the common room in the hotel where I stayed. I had to let myself back in for just a moment to grab my forgotten bag of lunch (some bread, cheese and a nut tartI I grabbed at the local merchants the night before).

    I was well on my way by 6:30 AM. One of the things I love about the pilgrimage is the constant west direction. I love walking in the cool morning with the sun in my back. I love the way the early morning light cast shadows and shines through trees. It’s the best part of my day.

    There were lots of changes today in the path. The geology changed. We moved from the red and black volcanic stone. Interesting and important question for an early morning walker, is that a stone or a cow flap? The new stones on the path are quartz white. Though frequently rough, and difficult to walk on, you won’t take them for a cow flap. The large stony glacial rocks are almost as prominent today as they were yesterday.

    Insects are kind of denizen of the path. Lots of butterflies visit the flowers on the path border. Lots of crickets constantly jumping about in such numbers that it’s almost a little bit like stirring up fallen confetti on your walk on the day after New Year’s Eve.

    Something else changed today. The markings on the path are really important guides. The meticulous way they have been displayed on the earlier stages of the pilgrimage, were a marvel to me. It was literally difficult for me to imagine how one could get lost. Not only did they provide markers, indicating the correct direction, they also provided do not enter versions of their markers when a road or a path appeared that might mislead the pilgrim.

    Today, however, it’s clear that I’m going to be a lot more careful navigator going forward. This is important for several reasons. As they move south the days are getting hotter, so the easy walking hours are shrinking. Additionally, getting lost doesn’t only mean extra steps, it means you miss potential opportunities to resupply water. In the earlier stages, I never worried about Water. Today I did.

    The other thing that has changed is the availability of Food. Cafés and snack bars are not in evidence. My usual last resort, the unattended “donativo” provided only a half a cup of orange juice. So I have to be extra careful about Water and Food. That’s pretty fundamental.

    Tomorrow I have an easier walk. Unfortunately, it will feature 21 km and 35°C. Hot and long. I guess I’ll be really early rising tomorrow. Saturday, will be my longest hike, 35 km with rain and much lower temperatures in the forecast

    I was glad to make it to this town in daylight. I was happy to see what France’s “ 20 most beautiful villages” looked like. I have to say, that it looked like a Disney version of the French Village. Everything was perfectly manicured with lots of generous landscaping and plants, I kind of expected Belle to come around the corner singing, “Little Town..”

    The Gîte offered a nice dinner with green salad and pork with potatoes and carrots.

    I what show you pictures of all these musings I’ve shared with you. But I don’t have enough Internet connection so I’ll have to upload them the next time. I’m at a café the generously offers Wi-Fi.    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler
    2

    Nasbinals

    July 22 in France ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    I had a wonderful meal last night at Gite Les Sentiers Fleuris. The main course was sausage on a bed of rice, flavored with peppers and some spice I couldn’t identify. I Had a lovely conversation with my table. The patrons of the establishment presents the dinner with the air of authority of Martha Stewart. And I mean that in the most complementary sense.

    The bedroom was a bit crowded. It was well appointed with a nice bathroom and a separate shower. It had a window that booked out onto the square. I didn’t mind the noise in the Square and left the window open for a fresh air. It’s common here for the temperature to go down to 50° after an 85° day I went to bed early and slept well.

    Unfortunately, it’s not common in France to sleep with the windows open apparently. I noticed that they’re really aren’t screens like we have in the USA. Regardless, it got quite stuffy. I got up and opened the shower room to allow them fresh air into the bedroom. I went back to bed and settled for a bit. But the room became stuffy again and at three I got up and went downstairs into the common room and got a short nap there before I got an early start on my day.

    I woke to the alarm. Both of them. One was to wake me. The other was to remind me of all the stuff I needed to gather before I left.

    It was a beautiful day. I left the Gîte a little after 6 AM. The bar on the Square was just opening and I had a quick petite café. Fortified with this I had intended to just leave the town. But as I was walking, I noticed that there was a little sandwich shop that promised open at 6:30 AM. It did open on time, and I left well provisioned with a sausage croissant, and a chicken and egg sandwich.

    There were very few people on the trail I saw almost no one until I got to the four corners (where there was snack shop that offered good cappuccino and some bananas). On my way to four corners, I was charmed by two pilgrims walking side-by-side, a mother and son singing lovely songs as they marched along.

    It was a 27 km path today. At first it started up much like yesterday was very similar surroundings. Then two things changed. I noticed that there were lots of birch trees along the path. And the ground got progressively rockier until it was clear that glaciers had deposited House size stones, some piled like a Jenga tower. Locally the stones are known as, “La pépite des glaciers” (glacier nuggets?).

    I arrived in Nasbinals around 1 PM. I would’ve been much earlier, but I made a very interesting detour. I walked off the marked path and search for a waterfall that was mentioned in a guidebook. As I was walking there, a car pulled up to me and asked me for directions to a waterfall. I said I was looking for the waterfall myself and I was following directions for hiking. They were hoping to drive to the waterfall which turns out later to be quite impossible. After trying to help them, find an alternate route, I I followed the guidebook instructions and got to the precise place where I could access the waterfall. But I didn’t have the courage to crawl under the fence that was blocking away. I meet to guardian angels walking their dogs, I asked them about the way to the waterfall. The man reassured me that he could get me there. We walked back down the path that I had so carefully followed. He lead us up a drive marked PRIVÉ (private). He then Guided me and my backpack under a Barb wire fence. And we took a walk across an open field and down into a gully where are the sound of falling water greeted me. I followed him around some trees and was amazed to see 100 foot waterfall tumbling from above into a cavern carved in the side of the hill as big as two basketball gyms. The water is obviously and it’s low and during the summer and must be quite a thundering presence during the winter and spring. Still, it was a marvel to behold, and I felt very blessed to be there. As we ascend it out of the grotto, I made my way up to the exact spot where I’d hesitated to travel, sharing photos with my guardian angels, returned to the path that took me to the town of Nasbanals. I grabbed a seat in the shade at the first bar that showed, loft down a big blonde, German beer and quickly fell asleep. This being friends, no one bothered me.

    After my nap, I made my way to EGLISE SAINTE-MARIE. It’s a beautiful little Romanesque Church with a very active community, who welcome all pilgrims to visit. The kindness and sincerity led me to join the early evening “office” a little service of readings from the gospel and songs.

    And now I have parked my bags in my non-descript Gîte and I’m waiting for a restaurant to begin service at 7:30 which seems to be the earliest they will serve around here. I’m looking forward to the potato dish that a special to this local. It is called “aligot.” today it is a a whipped potato that can stretch like in elastic. But originally, before the potato arrived on the continent , I learned it was cooked from bread and fresh tome cheese. The original recipe might give you an idea of the texture of the plate.

    Bon appétit!    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    Aumont-Aubroc

    July 21 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    A quiet 15 km walk with a nice visit at the church in the Village Square. My phone is on low battery and so am I.

    I had a lot of protein with my breakfast at the Gîte. My meals don’t seem to be sticking with me. I was hungry halfway out of town.

    I stopped at Les Estreets and I had a cappuccino with crème brûlée. I know not a very good choice for a long hike, but I have to say I enjoyed it.

    I was so hungry when I arrived at Aumont-Aubrac that I searched out the first boulangerie I could find. I was going to settle for an old friend like quiche Lorraine, but for some reason, I changed my mind to order a Fiand Viande. It’s the flakiest little Pastry with meat filling. I had a blueberry lemonade with it. I ate it standing outside the boulangerie. I was so happy. It feels a little bit like a Maine here. I’ve had a lot of food with blueberries (les myrtilles) and lots of good hardy food. The local specialty for potatoes is crazy elastic version of mashed potatoes. I’m hoping it’s on the menu at my Gîte tonight.

    Early to bed tonight. I have 27 km to cover tomorrow. It’s supposed to be easy hiking, but it’s still 27 km. The day after that, we break 30 km and that’s gonna be hard hiking. I’m hoping I’m gonna get in shape right quick.    Read more

  • Michael WordenVia Podiensis July 16, 2026Traveler

    Saint-Alban sur Limiagnole

    July 21 in France ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    I arrived here about four in the afternoon. Another lovely day of hiking through dairy lands and forests. I came across one scene. I know my wife would’ve loved. A stand of evergreens and dark shadow with an endless bed of moss cover, covering the floor of the forest.

    This is a pleasant little crossroads town. It has more bars and restaurants than you would imagine for a town of the size. I had the local blonde beer here today. It was very good.

    I checked in at my Gîte Auberge Saint Jacques. It’s a pleasant little Inn and I had a room to myself and shared bathroom facilities. A good meal and great conversation with a fellow pilgrim. She’s a German person who speaks excellent French and English. She learned her French from a visit with a family when she was young, a family like connection that she enjoys still today. Her plans take her off Camino and she will and her walk in Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, a beautiful historic town that I visited twice last summer.

    That’s lifeon Le Chemin. Spending time with wonderful people and wondering when you might cross paths again.

    Oh, and I was brave today, I struck up a conversation with a villager that I met along the way. He remarked that I have good cool weather for walking today. And I have photographic proof presented here.    Read more