Day 8

Even though we had a late night… we were still awake at 6:30 a.m.! At this point, I don’t think it’s jet lag anymore—it’s probably the extra-long daylight hours, and me waking up each morning already thinking about everything we want to do.

We were both feeling a little dusty, so after breakfast we wandered down to Zywioły Café, a more polished pedestrian area, for coffee and croissants. I’d noticed our train tickets didn’t include seat allocations, so we stopped by the main station. After a short, mildly confusing conversation in broken English, we were reassured it wasn’t a big deal.

Back at the apartment, we packed up and cleaned before heading out again. With about an hour to spare, we grabbed lunch at McDonald’s (not our finest moment)—though I went for a salad and veggie roll. Even with rocket (which I still can’t stand), it felt like a decent choice after a solid week of hearty eating.

A quick reminder of how different things are here: the station bathrooms required a small payment—something you rarely see back home. Our platform was easy to find, the train arrived with time to spare, and when I asked the conductor about seats, she told us to sit anywhere. The carriage was about 80% empty, so that worked out just fine.

Even in second class, the seats were roomy, with tray tables, luggage racks, and big windows looking out over the Polish countryside. The 2.5-hour ride was smooth and direct, and the stretch from Warsaw to Kraków gave us time to appreciate just how green and wide-open much of the country still is.

Google Maps told us our accommodation was a 15-minute walk from the station—it turned out to be five. The apartment itself is compact but cleverly designed. Smaller than the one in Warsaw, but clean, modern, and functional. The bed is tucked into a timber loft above the kitchen, reachable via a small staircase. Once you’re up there, you’ve got to crouch or crawl—it’s not tall enough to stand—but it’s cosy and kind of fun.

I tried to get a nap in, but the people upstairs were stomping around too much for that to happen. So, we gave up on resting and headed into town. Kraków feels more compact and relaxed than Warsaw. Ted admitted he’d pictured Poland as a bit bleak—like something out of the ’80s—but this place changed his mind fast.

We headed straight to the Main Market Square, which was packed (hardly a surprise for a Saturday). At 40,000 square metres, it’s the largest medieval square in Europe—framed by elegant townhouses and buzzing with activity. It’s been the heart of Kraków since the 13th century, and you can feel that history underfoot.

We ducked into the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice), which dates back to the Renaissance and was once a major international trading post. These days it’s full of amber jewellery, folk art, and fridge magnets—but it still has charm, especially under the vaulted ceilings and wrought-iron lamps.

Outside, St. Mary’s Basilica towers over the square. One of the spires is currently under scaffolding, but it’s still impressive. Every hour, a trumpeter plays a short melody from the higher tower—a tradition that’s been going strong since the 14th century. Legend says it honours a city guard who was shot mid-note while sounding the alarm during a Mongol invasion.

Nearby, we spotted the enormous bronze head lying sideways in the square—Eros Bendato (Eros Bound), a sculpture by Polish artist Igor Mitoraj. It looks both ancient and modern at once—and, strangely enough, it’s become one of the most popular meeting points in town.

We browsed the many food stalls lining the square, offering everything from grilled cheese and sausages to towering pork knuckles. Ted finally gave in to temptation and went for the latter—it wasn’t cheap (thanks, tourist prices), but he loved every bite.

By late afternoon, I was starting to crash, so we grabbed some groceries and headed back. I managed a solid two-hour nap before we got changed and went out again for dinner. Neither of us was hungry for anything too heavy, so we settled on a warming bowl of soup and fresh bread at Drevny Kocur. Simple, satisfying, and perfect for a cool spring evening in Kraków.

At night, the square was far less crowded. There were still food stalls open and plenty of people out, though the vibe had mellowed. One slightly less charming aspect? A few hawkers trying to pull tourists into casinos or strip clubs—not quite our thing.

We considered a nightcap at Lindo Bar but decided to save it for another day. With three nights here and plenty of sights still to explore, we’ve got time to soak it all in.Läs mer