Day 9

We managed to sleep in until 6 a.m. today, which—given our track record lately—felt like a small victory. The sun was already up, and we grabbed our first coffee at Consonni Szpitalna, perfectly positioned to admire the grand Juliusz Słowacki Theatre. This Baroque beauty, completed in 1893 and modelled after the Paris Opera, remains one of Kraków’s most ornate landmarks. Although the morning air was still cold, the sunshine quickly turned intense, and we had to move inside before the outdoor seating became uncomfortably warm.

From there, it was a short walk to St. Florian’s Gate, one of the city’s original medieval entrances. Built in the 14th century, it marked the start of the Royal Road—the ceremonial path once used by kings and dignitaries. The fortified gateway, with its vaulted ceiling, stands opposite a stretch of the original city wall, now used as an open-air art gallery. We returned in the evening to find it transformed—bright canvases lining the ancient stones, turning the whole scene into a striking blend of past and present.

Knowing we’d be visiting the Wieliczka Salt Mine tomorrow, we picked up a 48-hour public transport pass using the same app we used in Warsaw. It came in handy straight away as we made our way to Wawel Castle. The setting alone made the trip worthwhile. Perched above the Vistula River, Wawel’s architecture is a patchwork of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles—a testament to Poland’s long and turbulent royal history.

Next stop: Oskar Schindler’s Enamel Factory. We were hoping to visit the museum, but all the tickets were sold out for today and tomorrow—a bit of a letdown. Still, even standing outside was moving. One of the most striking features was the wall of black-and-white portraits displayed across the windows—images of Jewish men and women saved by Schindler during the Holocaust, many of whom worked at this very factory. Even without stepping inside, the sight of those faces—each a life narrowly spared—was deeply affecting.

Determined to honour Kraków’s wartime history, we continued on to Ghetto Heroes Square, where oversized bronze chairs are arranged across the plaza. Each one represents the thousands of Jews who were deported from the Kraków Ghetto during WWII. Just around the corner, hidden among residential buildings, we found a surviving fragment of the ghetto wall. Crumbling and cracked, it now bears a small plaque, quietly commemorating what once stood there. It’s easy to overlook if you’re not paying attention, but once you see it, it stays with you.

Our mood lightened again when we reached the neo-Gothic marvel of St. Joseph’s Church in the Podgórze district. Its towering green spire and white-trimmed red brick façade made it one of the most photogenic buildings we’ve seen so far. Behind the church, the gardens were even more impressive—lush, tiered, and dotted with contemplative bronze sculptures. It felt like stepping into a peaceful open-air museum.

We crossed the Vistula via the Father Bernatek Footbridge, a modern pedestrian bridge known for its wire acrobats suspended mid-air. It links Podgórze with Kazimierz and offers a great vantage point over the river.

We explored Kazimierz, Kraków’s historic Jewish quarter, which had a rougher edge than expected—some areas felt run-down and heavily graffitied. Still, it added a gritty kind of authenticity to the day, reminding us that cities like Kraków carry layers of past and present in every street.

Ted was keen to experience a traditional milk bar, and Bar Mleczny “Pod Temidą” didn’t disappoint. These no-frills, Communist-era canteens offer hearty Polish comfort food at budget prices. We ordered pork cutlets with mashed potato and cabbage, gołąbki (cabbage rolls with mushroom sauce), and placki ziemniaczane—crispy potato pancakes with buttery sautéed mushrooms. Simple, satisfying, and well-earned.

The weather held up beautifully all day, so we strolled along the Vistula afterwards. The riverside was buzzing with life—cyclists, sunbathers, and kids clambering over the Wawel Dragon statue, which famously breathes fire every hour (though we managed to miss it).

After a break back at the apartment, we wandered out again for a drink at Café Lindo. Despite its charming look, it was a bit of a flop—rude service, no crowd, and warm beer. Not exactly one for the return list.

We finished the day back in the Old Town, where I finally gave in to temptation and tried a chimney cake rolled in cocoa. Hot, sweet, crispy on the outside and soft inside—it was so indulgent it ended up being my dinner. The sunset bathed the square in gold, rounding off what felt like a full, reflective, and surprising day.Meer informatie