Day 10

Our final full day in Kraków greeted us with more glorious weather—warm enough that we finally traded jeans for shorts. Well-rested, we set out with a sense of quiet purpose, returning to the Jewish Quarter, Kazimierz, determined to understand more of its layered history.

We began with a walk to the New Jewish Cemetery, established in 1800 on the grounds of a former monastery. Though it was closed when we arrived, we paused at the historical plaque affixed to the brick wall outside. It explained that the cemetery had been destroyed during the Second World War, only to be restored in 1957 with help from the American Jewish Joint Distribution Committee. Today, it serves as a resting place for prominent figures like the artist Maurycy Gottlieb and Rabbi Ozjasz Thon—and as a solemn memorial to Holocaust victims.

From there, we traced the Jewish Heritage Route through Kazimierz. The route winds past synagogues, former prayer houses, and old community centres, and their faded façades offered quiet reminders of the once-thriving Jewish life in this part of the city.

Perhaps the most powerful moment of the morning came at Schindler’s List Passage, tucked into a shaded alley off Józefa Street. This narrow walkway is lined with photo displays and plaques recounting personal wartime stories. One that struck us described a man who hid for days under floorboards during the ghetto’s liquidation. Another told of a woman’s separation from her family at the Plaszów labour camp, and how she eventually survived and bore witness. The silence in that passage was profound—each story a reminder of how close this history still feels.

Our final stop in the Jewish Quarter was the Tempel Synagogue, a beautiful building that really stood out with its warm red brick and decorative detailing. Even from the street it looked impressive, with arched windows and intricate stonework.

By late morning, it was time to head out for our visit to the Wieliczka Salt Mine. We’d booked tickets in advance and disembarked the train a stop early to visit a nearby supermarket and pick up supplies. After a quick pizza lunch at the small bistro next to the mine, we joined the growing queue. The wait was about 20 minutes, and our English-speaking guide soon appeared—carrying herself with a voice reminiscent of the SBS “Viewing Highlights” announcer from Fast Forward.

Once inside, the experience became something truly extraordinary. The Wieliczka Salt Mine, over 700 years old, stretches more than 300 metres beneath the surface. This isn’t just a mine—it’s a subterranean masterpiece. As we descended over 800 wooden steps, the air cooled, and salt crystallised across the walls in natural veins and glistening patches.

The further we walked, the more interesting it became. Entire chapels and corridors have been carved from salt—walls etched with religious scenes, caverns opening into vast underground halls. One of the most astonishing highlights was the Chapel of St. Kinga, a soaring underground cathedral where every element—from the chandeliers to the altar—is sculpted entirely from salt. A rendition of The Last Supper carved into the wall stood out for its haunting beauty. Even more remarkable is that all of this was created not by artists, but by the miners themselves, in their spare time.

As we continued, the tour revealed salt lakes with glassy surfaces, sculptures of figures like Copernicus and Piłsudski, and whimsical scenes of gnome miners toiling away in the rock. The scale of it all was astonishing—not just in beauty, but in sheer ingenuity.

Halfway through, we stumbled upon one of the mine’s more unexpected features: a full-blown underground gift shop and café. Tables, shelves, and even the snack bar were embedded into the walls of salt. Sitting deep underground with salt chandeliers overhead was one of the most bizarre travel moments we’ve had.

The final stretch of the mine was even stranger. To reach the exit, we walked nearly a kilometre through winding corridors that passed museum exhibits, modern artworks, and what looked like an underground conference centre. The spaces were polished, almost corporate—another reminder of how many lives and purposes this mine has held. Eventually, we reached the final elevator—a compact metal lift that shot upward with rattling speed, echoing like a rocket launch.

Emerging into daylight again felt like surfacing from another world. Rather than wrangling with transfers or connections, we simply paid the small fare for the return train to Kraków. It was worth it for the smooth ride back.

Back at the apartment, we had a well-earned rest before heading out for dinner. After so many heavy Polish meals, we opted for something quick and light from the shopping centre food court. Not glamorous—but exactly what we needed.

With our bags now packed for an early Uber to the airport tomorrow, we end our time in Kraków with full hearts. Today, more than any other, wove together memory, wonder, and reverence. This city has revealed itself in layers—just like the salt mine below—and has left us with an appreciation deeper than we expected.

Next stop: Budapest.Lue lisää