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Camino Mozarabe

February - March 2024
Sitting on the bus in the dark; very excited, but hoping to get some sleep before arriving in Madrid tomorrow morning. Read more
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  • TravelerCamino Mozarabe
    Day 2

    Getting there

    February 18 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Can I remember how to use FindPenguin. One more section of journey before arrival in Madrid. Everyone a bit confused, and very cold, after breakfast stop as the driver didn't arrive when at the time that he said and some passengers needed to collect their cases to swap buses.. Now back on board and waiting to go.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozarabe
    Day 3

    Granada to Almeria

    February 19 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Last day of bus journeys for a while. Arrive in Almeria early afternoon and start walking tomorrow morning. Had a good sleep in the hostel in Granada, definitely needed after the broken night on the bus on Saturday. Beautiful building, just under 3km walk from the bus station.
    Great road trip along the Mediterranean motorway. Sea and market gardening! Met Nely, who is lovely and runs a hostel in her home as well as being the font of all knowledge about the Mozarabe camino. She supplied the credential, which is used as a pilgrim passport, allowing use of municipal hostels and also the place to collect sellos as proof of the places that you have walked through. Was stamped again this evening after a pilgrim blessing at the Cathedral. Beer and patatas bravas on the way back with the others. Practice 15km completed wandering around Almeria today. Ready to start tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozarabe
    11
    Day 4

    Almeria to Rioja

    February 20 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Walked a short section with Chemo then I had to get shopping and answer phone calls. The Camino is well marked out of Almeria; although I have an app, I didn't need it.
    Long walk through suburbs, but not as bad as anticipated and then a long section along a dried out riverbed. Had to keep watching feet to avoid tripping. Just 15km today to the hostel in Rioja. When you arrive, you have to call Nely and she gives you the code for the door. Little donavito hostel. Can sleep 10, there were just five of us. Kitchen equipment was coffee machine and microwave. Chaps laughed when I told them I was going to cook pasta in glasses in the microwave; it works!Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozarabe
    Day 5

    Rioja to Alboloduy

    February 21 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    A longer day, 26.56km, according to Mr Fitbit. It was lovely passing through the orange groves outside Rioja, so many orange and what a wonderful scent. Bumped into three out of four of the other walkers. but we very much walked at our own pace. A few words and then carried on or rested as needed. After Santa Fe the path took you over some very steep terrain. The only way to get to the top was a mixture of switchbacks and steep climbing. My legs certainly knew they'd been working . Interesting terrain with many caves which would have been used, years ago, to store wine and cheese (so I was told). Relieved to find a brand new shelter with table and benches at the highest and toughest point. Final 6km another riverbed walk. Less interesting but my knees were happier. Everyone arrived at the Albergue in Alboloduy where we were greeted by Pacó (who I had met a couple of days ago at Nely's) and offered wine after registering. Lovely hostel, 2 small bunkbed rooms, hot water for shower and washing machine. Was then offered red wine with the lovely veggie dinner, cooked by Pacó. A good night's sleep was had.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozarabe
    35
    Day 6

    Alboloduy to Alba

    February 22 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Turned out to be longer that expected. There was a choice of hostel at 24 or 29km and Nely said to let her know later, so that she could send me the key code.
    Another riverbed walk before getting into the mountains. I'd looked at the profile and knew I was in for a steep climb. Numerous switchbacks, a bit challenging if you have vertigo and many stops needed, but it was stunning. Along the top, bumped into Chemo but he was just finishing a rest as I needed one. Long down hill but a wide track, although incredibly steeo at times. Back to... Riverbed walking with incredibly strong headwind, really made the pace slower. Eventually got to small village of Dona Maria and found a sheltered place for lunch. Chema passed as I was packing up. Walked together through olive and almond orchards, he knew a lot about them, so an interesting walk. Eventually I needed a rest and he carried on. The remainder of the walk was tough, not steep hills this time, but more, more, more riverbed with a very strong wind. Last part not so nice as on the hard shoulder going into Alba. The 29km given was definitely out, over 33km on Fitbit. Definitely a bit far and to add insult to injury, the final part was up some steep lanes in Alba. Have the albergue to myself as the others had stopped on Ocaña. Still, no queue for the bathroom 🤣Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozarabe
    Day 7

    Abla to Hueneja

    February 23 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Not so long today, just over 22 km. Was the only person in the albergue so left a little later with the thought of lightening my bag and sending a few bits home. However post office didn't open until the afternoon, so continued. Very glad that I did as when I met up with Chema later, he told me that snow was forecast in the pass in a couple of days. Thy has now changed and snow is forecast overnight here - will see in the morning. The walk was a mix of road, path and riverbed. A few uphills but nothing like the last couple of days. Orange groves now moving into almond and olive orchards, shame the almonds aren't ready. The other four walkers are here tonight, small but fine hostel. Only complaint.... it's on the third floor! 🤣
    Decided not cook more pasta and found somewhere to ear. Salmonete is not baby salmon but red mullet. Nice change but too much to finish. Off to sleep, now will it be white outside in the morning?    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozarabe
    2
    Day 8

    Hueneja to Alquife

    February 24 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 6 °C

    Well the first thing to say is it was COOLLDD! It hadn't snowed overnight but the temperature was just 3° when I left. A few sunny spots but temperatures hardly changed. Arrived at Aquilo, 22.3 km later, around 3pm and temperature around 7°, however windchill factor definitely less. Couple of hail showers en route, just to add to the excitement. Will go and stand under the hot shower in a minute. We have to leave at least 5 minutes between users if we want hot water.
    Apart from being chilly the scenery was stunning. Almond orchards clung to some of the slopes but also in the wide plains between the mountains ranges. Some up and down today, but not as long or as steep as the second day. Passed through a few little villages and a kindly baker let me sit in her shop and eat a chocolate pastry as the cafe was still closed. I found out from Chema and José that there was a second café that was open and was excellent, oh well, can't win them all. Arrived at Albergue Lacho which is really nice, but still a bit chilly. At least some sort of fiesta in the town later, the dormitory heating works so that'll be good. Dormitory wonderfully warm, missed the Fiesta, it was at 2pm.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozarabe
    1
    Day 9

    Alquife to Guadix

    February 25 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Stunning landscape today. The snowy mountains alongside and then finally behind. Coming across a hidden valley (well it was shown on the map, but hidden as you walk), such a variety of landforms. Almond and olive groves again and some so tidy. Finally walking through real spaghetti western country with the vertical cliff faces. I could imagine myself there if it wasn't for the occasional electric pylons and modern houses. Came across a churrio and chocolate van in the first town, a welcome 2nd breakfast after 7km. Pleased that I could exchange a couple of sentences in Spanish with someone in the queue 😀. Another day of walking totally alone but met up with José and Chema at the hostel (1000 years old). Deciding whether to take a rest day tomorrow and explore Guadix, or continue. Will see what legs feel like after a sleep. Certainly tired tonight. Another wonderful microwave pasta dinner. All is good.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozarabe
    224
    Day 10

    Guadix to La Peza

    February 26 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Well that was a day of every weather possible, except thunder and lightening. It was raining lightly as I left so enormous orange poncho was on. As I tried to find my way back to the Camino, the heavens opened. I found a place to shelter, struggled out of poncho and rucksack and...... changed my socks! I have an ancient waterproof pair that still work!
    Trudging through the rain meant a lot fewer photos than I would normally have taken.
    Headed towards more of the monumental western scenery and then a forest, which was beautiful but much time was spent watching my footing and trying not to slip.
    After Purullena, the rain stopped and by Marchal, the sun came. Lovely view spot with benches where I stopped for a snack and to wring out my gloves for the third time. A little later found a lovely pilgrim rest area but didn't need to stop. Through the next town and Karina, whom I had met briefly in the morning, caught me up and we spent the rest of the day walking together.
    À long climb up through the mountains and constant rain turned to snow! Scenery still brilliant but became really cold. Chose the longer road route down rather than the slippery path, which was a good move. Lovely greeting from Theresa, the hospitaleria. who dished up hot soup before we'd even registered.
    Over supper of omelette and salad a lot of discussion was had about tomorrow's route. Despite encouragement from some of the others, I'm going to opt for the shorter stage, so wi be unlikely to see the chaps again, but Karina will be walking with me. A long day, about 10 hours, but full of surprises and another 29km walked in total.    Read more

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