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Lands End to John o'Groats
  • Nikki Baker

Lands End to John o'Groats

Cycle trip from the bottom of Cornwall to the tip of Scotland with Gaylene, Greg & Geoff Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 31, 2022
    Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    Cornish tin mine ruins
    Crossing the River Fal on the King Harry Ferry

    LEJOG Day 2 - Penzance to Tregony

    September 1, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    First hilly day with panniers. A couple of nasty 17% short pinches 😲

    Cycled along the mining trail and past some splendid examples of the old Cornish tin mines. Tin mining ended in 1998 when the last remaining mine became unprofitable. However, in 2021 a new mining operation began to extract battery-grade lithium carbonate.

    Outstanding (and much needed) refueling stops today - coffee & homemade goodies in Camborne and best pub dinner yet (fish pie) in Tregony!

    In a delightful B&B tonight.

    Distance: 65 km. 821m ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler

    LEJOG Day 3 - Tregony to Liskeard

    September 2, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Huge day of hills - absolutely shattered. Some vicious little devils (think short portions of Awaba St, Mosman). We all had to push the bikes up them - and had a close call with a tractor.

    Rookie mistake - we all forgot it was a Friday - so hadn't booked a table for a pub dinner. So 4 exhausted cyclists tried for take away pizza (wait time too long), supermarket hot food (finished 30 mins before). Eventually ate in the pub at 9.00 - could hardly keep our eyes open - but needed to refuel!

    We stopped at the Eden Project for a couple of hours. Originally an exhausted, steep-sided clay pit 60 metres deep, with no soil, 15 metres below the water table, it is now the home of various biodomes housing a huge diversity of plants from rainforests, deserts and Mediterranean climates.

    Distance 56 km. 1050m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    4
    Brentor ChurchBrentor ChurchMeldon viaduct

    LEJOG Day 4 - Liskeard to Okehampton

    September 3, 2022 in England ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We were all a little concerned about today as the climbing profile looked very daunting (again) and all still tired from yesterday. However, pleasantly surprised as it seemed less strenuous.

    A wedding was taking place at the 13th century Brentor Church, perched high up overlooking the green farmland on one side and desolate Dartmoor on the other. Greg walked to the top, but I viewed from a distance and then coffee beckoned!

    We left Cornwall and entered Devon, skirted around Bodmin Moor and the windswept, barren Dartmoor National Park. The final section had us on the Granite Way which follows the course of the former Southern Region railway line and crossing the historic Meldon viaduct.

    Distance: 55km. 870m ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    Crediton church
    Bike or car ??

    LEJOG Day 5 - Okehampton to Wellington

    September 4, 2022 in England ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    A lovely ride through the picturesque Devon farmlands. Some early blue sky before turning overcast with light showers.

    The cows must have been hiding as we had the lovely aroma of fresh manure - but no sign of livestock!

    Good backroads made for slightly faster travel - so our lunch/dinner combined was at our pub stay - the traditional Sunday roast (before it finished at 5.30). So an early night.

    Distance: 73km. 940m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler

    LEJOG Day 6 - Wellington to Cheddar

    September 5, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Across the Somerset flats - an ‘easy’ day, but not without its challenges.

    Derailleur issues for Geoff (fixed at a bike shop in Taunton); 1 flat tyre for Gaylene; 2 slow motion falls whilst navigating a rough path along the Taunton Bridgewater Canal.

    Then an incorrect turn by Nikki led us into a 400m jungle path of brambles and nettles. We were at a point of no return so had to push through it, but nearly lost Gaylene beneath the greenery.

    Tired and needing coffee & food we detoured into Bridgewater (not very inspiring). Back on the bikes and 1 km out of town Geoff had to high tail it back to the cafe as he’d left his backpack behind🫢.

    Finally arrived in Cheddar and nice pub rooms. Showered & refreshed walked round town and then up to the cliff tower lookout - but it was padlocked. And just to top the day off, there was an unexpected Sydney style torrential rainstorm just as we were walking to dinner, so there were four wet and bedraggled diners - both shoes and clothes completely soaked!

    However - amazingly fantastic Italian restaurant - so a good conclusion to the day.

    Except I nearly set the fire alarm off - back in the room I was using the hairdryer to dry my socks and burnt a hole in one - hence the odd smell of singed fabric. Whoops!

    Distance: 70 km. 330m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    Cheddar Gorge
    1Wild goats

    LEJOG Day 7 - Cheddar to Thornbury

    September 6, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Started the day with a climb up through Cheddar Gorge on the southern side of the Mendip hills. The road winds through for 4.2km with a couple of 16% steep gradients before it tapers into a gentle climb. Certainly a sure way to wake up the legs first thing in the morning.

    Interesting rock formations and wild goats grazing alongside the road.

    Traversed through the outskirts of Bristol on a number of cycle ways, before heading back into the quiet lanes into the county of Gloucestershire and our rest day destination of Thornbury.
    Distance: 62 km. 700m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    Guess the name of our pub accommodation
    Queen's jubilee celebrations still in evidence2

    LEJOG Day 8 - Rest Day, Thornbury

    September 7, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    A well deserved sleep in and a generally lazy day but only after the visit to the launderette and time spent on bike maintenance and cleaning.

    Gaylene’s birthday - so a wonderful fine dining experience at Ronnie’s.

    Distance: 0 km. 0m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    Great East window
    Gloucester cathedralCloisters - Gloucester Cathedral

    LEJOG Day 9 - Thornbury to Tewksbury

    September 8, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Cycled via quiet lanes and the Gloucester- Sharpness canal in overcast weather. Just made it to our Gloucester city lunch stop when a thunderstorm and rain arrived.

    We visited the revamped docklands area and then the Cathedral. Glorious architecture and stained glass windows.

    Fun Fact 1: Th’e cathedral cloisters were
    transformed into the corridors of Hogwart’s School of Witchcraft and Wizardry in the first two –Harry Potter films.

    Fun Fact 2: The Great East stained glass window is the size of a tennis court and was installed in the 1350's and during World War II it was dismantled and stored in the crypt to keep it safe.

    Arrived at Tewksbury, a very pretty medieval town at the confluence of the River Avon and River Severn. My late afternoon riverside walk was where I learned of the death of Queen Elizabeth II and naturally that was the topic of conversation for the evening in between watching the constant BBC news feed.

    Distance: 77 km. 370m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    Tewksbury

    LEJOG Day 10 - Tewksbury to Bewdley

    September 9, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Stage 6 of the Tour of Britain was due to start in Tewksbury today and we were looking forward to seeing the event preparations. However it was cancelled out of respect for the Queen.

    Lovely medieval architecture in the town and then an undulating cycle to our overnight stop.

    Distance: 78 km. 660m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    Bewdley bridge
    BewdleyPinch point narrow squeezeAn uphill push

    LEJOG Day 11 - Bewdley to Wrockwardine

    September 10, 2022 in England ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Today we saw quite a bit of the Severn Valley Railway which is a 26km heritage line operating mostly steam hauled passenger trains with stops at beautifully restored stations. Unfortunately we heard the steam whistles, but didn't get to see the train.

    The planned route was meant to be 65 and 870m climbing but I managed to find a lovely track that ran parallel to the river and saved 10km and 200m climbing. Legend!

    There has been a good selection of cycle trails & surfaces so far although some of the 'pinch points' to slow down bikes have been a tight squeeze - especially for the flat bar bikes.

    Distance: 55 km. 690m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    CanolaIt's easier to ride in the car!

    LEJOG Day 12 - Wrockwardine to Crewe

    September 11, 2022 in England ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Easiest day so far. Lots of gentle hills with some excellent downhill coasting. Very relaxing. We passed through Shropshire and are now in Cheshire (must try some local cheese).

    The back roads took us through mostly arable farm land - we could identify canola, sweet corn, sugarcane ?? but a lot of fields were ploughed ready for new planting.

    Distance: 65 km. 480m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    Skinny lockNavigating the lock by bikeRain set in😟Temporary shelter

    LEJOG Day 13 - Crewe to Haydock

    September 12, 2022 in England ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    -wich town are we in now? Middlewich, Leftwich, Nantwich or Northwich? Apparently the -wich suffix indicates a place with extensive trading activity, usually on a coast and often where salt is mined.

    And we did pass the Winsford Rock Salt Mine, unknowingly cycling over a massive underground space (size of 700 football fields) where the disused sections are now a significant storage facility for the National Archives and other companies.

    Today's route featured a portion of the Shropshire Union Canal - only suitable for traditional narrow boats and also a lovely shared path that wound through extensive parkland alongside the River Weaver.

    The day was going well until I had to suddenly break to avoid a pedestrian. Unfortunately I was on a very slippery wooden bridge skidded & came off the bike. Luckily I escaped with a only a couple of bruises and a splinter.

    The morning clouds turned to light drizzle and then set in for the rest of the day. My new cycling poncho worked very well - it may look odd but it has good coverage and lots of airflow so you don't heat up like a sauna.

    However the persistent rain was demoralizing and we were pretty tired & wet - and wanting to get to the accommodation. A moments loss of concentration saw me take another slow tumble - again on a slippery wooden bridge. So now I have huge bruises on both legs. It was pure inattentiveness on my part!

    Distance: 65km. 355 Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    Preston
    Why cycle this.......1....when you could cycle thisGetting through the towpath barriers

    LEJOG Day 14 - Haydock to Garstang

    September 13, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Glorious day - no wind, likelihood of sun later in the day. Now in Lancashire.

    It seemed simple but the morning route had us on paths through various woodlands. A few wrong turns and it was a very slow and tedious 20km. However things got better after a coffee stop and we had a great cycle along the Leeds & Liverpool Canal, River Ribble & Lancaster Canal.

    We met some other cyclists on the outskirts of Preston and they suggested we follow them on a slightly different route. After a very circuitous deviation, I realised their proposal, whilst scenic, involved even more canal towpaths and tricky barrier crossings and an extra 15km. So Gaylene & I decided to head for Garstang on the original route, whilst the boys did more canal stuff. Good call on our part - apparently the towpath got more lumpy & bumpy.

    Distance: 71km. 400 m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    Wyre Aquaduct
    Progress!

    LEJOG Day 15 - Rest Day - Garstang

    September 14, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Rest Day- yippee!

    Once the domestics were done & dusted (laundry, bike washing & maintenance) I had a lovely walk into Garstang along the Golf Course (where we are staying) and via the canal.

    Garstang appears to be a prosperous little town and popular for day visiting, notable for the 1797 Wyre Aquaduct - a single span aqueduct 110ft long, carrying the Lancaster to Kendal canal 34ft above the River Wyre.

    Distance: 0km. 0m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    Friendly sheepCrook of Lune East ViaductAlways ignore road signage!Kirkby LonsdaleDevil's Bridge, Kirkby LonsdaleFinal descent to DentDry stone walls & cumbrian hills1

    LEJOG Day 16 - Garstang to Dent

    September 15, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    A noticeable change in the landscape as we cycle into Cumbria. Very lush and green pastures with sheep & cattle grazing. The fields are bounded by extensive dry stone walls that disappear into the hills. Little cropping activity to be seen.

    The houses tend to be built with a greyer stone and the churches are predominantly Methodist.

    Arrived at Kirkby Lonsdale, a pretty little village - their weekly market was on, so a nice change for lunch options.

    Crossed the River Lune via the lovely 13th century three arched Devils Bridge (named after an ancient local folk tale) and then started our last gradual climb (12km) before a well earned 14% descent into Dent.

    A lovely cycle day - but definitely cooler now!

    Distance: 65km 890m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    Cobbled main street in Dent
    Nothing to see here !Tyre repairs1

    LEJOG Day 17 - Dent to Penrith

    September 16, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Woke to a cold & windy morning. Our early start was thwarted by the discovery of flat tyres for both the boys 😟. It took a while before we found the cause - blackberry thorns.

    Now I know the real meaning of 'up hill and down dale'. It was a really tough morning of climbing - lots of nasty little gradients that seemed to go on for far too long and the headwind was constant.

    The landscape morphed from green pastures to the windswept hills of the Yorkshire Dales National Park). It was very dramatic (when we stopped to look) but I must admit I was looking forward to finishing for the day.

    Fun Fact: Last nights accommodation was in Dent, which is a small, scenic, cobblestoned village and it's hard to imagine that 200 years ago it supported a market, racecourse and 12 pubs/inns. It's prosperity was driven by hand knitting and all residents (men, women & children) were such accomplished speedy knitters that they were known as the 'Terrible Knitters of Dent'.

    Dent is also known for having the highest mainline railway station in England - at 1,150ft above sea level. But make sure you have transport as the station is 6.5 km away from the village!

    Distance: 63 km. 1,030 m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    Rugged up for a chilly start
    Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿😊Definitely more impressive numbers when u convert to kilometers1

    LEJOG Day 18 - Penrith to Lockerbie

    September 17, 2022 in Scotland ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    Chilly 5° start - and discovery (again) of 2 flat tyres for the boys😟. Girls not happy!

    Head wind started to pick up mid morning but we rolled along fairly well. In one section, if we took the 'downs' at a reasonable pace, the momentum would almost get us up the next roller.

     Fab toasties for lunch at the Woodside Welcome Cycle Cafe near Dalston. Then onwards towards the border!!

    Yes... we are now in Scotland - cycled through Gretna (no quickie marriages to be seen). But the roads have detiorated- very rough last 30kms.

    Big day today - we are all very tired.

    Distance: 90 km. 852 m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    At the top of the big climb
    Scary profile1

    LEJOG Day 19 - Lockerbie to Biggar

    September 18, 2022 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    No flat tyres or mechanical issues today so we were able to depart as planned.

    Before leaving Lockerbie we visited the memorial dedicated to the 1988 air disaster. Still well looked after 34 years on.

    Wretched bone jarring road surface (on the B7076) until we turned off onto a quiet back road. Then a fairly flattish cycle to Moffat for coffee before tackling the big long climb.

    The route profile made the hill look very unappealing but it turned out to be a lovely 10km climb with a very consistent gradient. The motorbikes were all out for a Sunday spin - a great winding road for them. All riders & drivers very courteous to us, leaving lots of space.

    What goes up must come down - and we certainly deserved it - but it was very cold. Scenery wise today has been a mix of very green cattle & sheep pastures interspersed with hills with some logging plantations.

    Arrived in Biggar with time & energy to spare.

    Distance: 78 km. 745m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler

    LEJOG Day 20 - Biggar to Glasgow

    September 19, 2022 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    An early start with blue sky peeping through low mist/clouds. Great back roads along the Clyde valley. No wind so extremely pleasant.

    Passing one farm we had a close call with a quad bike that came speeding out of a farm. Further up the road we realised he was in pursuit of loose cattle that were happily trashing a neighbours garden!

    No coffee stops today as everything was closed in honour of the Queen's funeral.

    Countyside gave way to suburbia as we entered Glasgow well & truly ready for 2 days off the bike.

    Distance: 75 km. 785m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    Glasgow University
    Glasgow UniversityGlasgow UniversityKelvingrove Art Gallery & MuseumRiverside MuseumRiverside Museum

    LEJOG Day 21 - Rest Day #1 - Glasgow

    September 20, 2022 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Rest Day???? Yet I still managed to walk 13km seeing some of Glasgow's landmarks and historical buildings.

    A lot of architecturally interesting old buildings. Glasgow University was very striking. Unfortunately I couldn't access the Cloisters as filming was in progress for some period film (judging by the actors wardrobe).

    Inside the Uni was the Hunterian museum - with differing collections: the story of Roman settlement in Scotland and the history of medicine & scientific innovation in Scotland were just a few of the interesting sections.

    Nearby was the Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum and it just happened to have an organ recital starting as I walked in - a pleasant accompaniment to a coffee & sandwich.

    To round off the cultural activities I walked to the newish Riverside Museum which houses the city’s fabulous transport and technology collections which reflect Glasgow's contributions to heavy industries like shipbuilding, train manufacturing and engineering.

    Interesting- but I was museum-ed out.

    I did a short trip on the Glasgow subway - it's like a Lilliputian version of the London tube - small in every sense - the trains, stations & coverage.

    Distance: 13 km walking.    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    1

    LEJOG Day 22 - Rest Day #2 - Glasgow

    September 21, 2022 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    I actually tried to have some down time - but only after a tour of the Glasgow City Hall - with its impressive marble staircase, marble, alabaster and wood interiors, mosaic flooring and huge rooms.

    Check the photo of a girl also on the tour- clearly I didn't get the memo re dress code!!

    Fun Fact:
    A statue of the Duke of Wellington has stood in the Royal Exchange Square for 140 years but in the early 1980's a traffic cone mysteriously started appearing on top of his head (presumably after a drunken night out)!

    Despite attempts at removal by the Council, it has steadfastly remained. Whenever a cone is removed, it is only a matter of days before a new one appears in its place.

    In 2013, the council proposed to double the height of the plinth to deter intrepid cone fans. However the backlash from the Glaswegian public showed that they felt it was a representation of local culture not vandalism. Hence #KeepTheCone

    Distance: 5 km Walking    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    🚲....size envy!
    First glimpse of Loch LomondLoch Long, ArrocharAhhh🌈🌈🌈

    LEJOG Day 23 - Glasgow to Arrochar

    September 22, 2022 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Brilliant day back on the bike!

    A late 10.30 start - hoping the overnight rain would ease - and it did - clearing to to fine day.

    Navigation out of Glasgow was fairly simply - and we basically followed bike paths all the way for 67km from the city, along the River Clyde, then the Forth & Clyde canal before heading up the west side of Loch Lomond to Arrochar.

    Distance: 67 km. 312m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    1Forest track
    1Dalmally castle ruinsInvergary castle

    LEJOG Day 24 - Arrochar to Dalmally

    September 23, 2022 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Overnight rain cleared to a fine morning. As expected we were on the main 'A' road - quite a lot of traffic - so some discussion about 4kms into the route as to whether we should try a forest road alternative. It was probably more climbing with a rocky dirt track - so was harder going but it got us away from the cars.

    Eventually we joined back with the 'A' road on the downhill section and had a pleasant cruise to our lunch stop at Inverary. Then another long climb but traffic was intermittent.

    Lovely accommodation tonight - and Gaylene had even organized the hosts to cook us a pasta dinner as nothing was open in town.

    Distance: 63 km. 760m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    6°C start
    River OrchyTop of Glencoe chairliftKinlochlevan1Kinlochlevan

    LEJOG Day 25 - Dalmally to Kinlochleven

    September 24, 2022 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Bracing 6°C start with clear blue skies and mist rising from the River Orchy made the first 20km very scenic.

    As we get further north in Scotland, there are fewer road options so again we were on an 'A' road for a good part of the day. Lots of motorbikes on the route also enjoying the winding road through the Highlands.

    Dramatic views but I imagine in bad weather it would be a very bleak and unpleasant cycle. A long uphill rewarded us with a smooth fast 10km descent into Glencoe, where we diverted to take the chairlift up the mountain.

    Kinlochlevan is popular with climbers and boasts an indoor ice climbing wall as well as bouldering and traditional climbing walls. However a 2 day motocross event was on and there were bikes everywhere accompanied by the distant whine and revs as they attacked the mountain course.

    Distance: 72 km. 775m Ascent    Read more

  • Nikki BakerLands End to John o'GroatsTraveler
    Wet & bedraggled
    Corran ferryStill raining !Loch LevanInverlochy Castle ruinsNeptunes Staircase (Google image)1Can't go past a home cooked meal!

    LEJOG Day 26 - Kinlochleven to Fort Will

    September 25, 2022 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    And the weather changed! Rain and drizzle all day.

    Fortunately it was a short 40km ride - but then we had to wait until 5pm before we could check in at the Fort William Backpackers hostel.

    Trying to dodge the worst of the rain we checked out the ruins of the old Inverlochy Castle (unimpressive), tried to spot Ben Nevis (too cloudy) & get a decent photo of Neptunes Staircase (needed a drone).

    Neptunes Staircase consists of 8 locks and raises the Caledonian Canal by 62ft over a quarter of a mile and takes around 90 minutes for a boat to travel up or down the locks.

    It is the longest staircase lock in Scotland and was built between 1803 and 1822 by Thomas Telford.

    Highlight today - got to cook our own dinner - superb fillet steak with peppercorn sauce, veges & mash. Enjoyed chatting to the young travelers at the hostel.

    Distance: 40 km. 300m Ascent    Read more

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