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A Camino to Remember

September - November 2023
We’re walking nearly 500 miles on the Camino Francés to Santiago! Read more
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  • 12.9kmiles
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  • TravelerA Camino to Remember
    Day 3

    Into France!

    September 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Today we took the bus from Pamplona to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France where —-surprise!—-everyone speaks French, not Spanish! It’s very green here and St-Jean is a beautiful medieval city. Tomorrow we start our big walk!Read more

  • TravelerA Camino to Remember
    Day 2

    It’s a Long Way to Pamplona!

    September 19, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Just a hop, skip, jump, and 13 hours in a plane and we ended today in Pamplona! A very clean and pretty mid-sized city. Think Vancouver with an outdoor plaza culture. Lots of people scootering, biking, and just generally being outside having fun in Pamplona today.Read more

  • TravelerA Camino to Remember
    1
    Day 4

    Up Up Up the Pyrenees

    September 21, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Today we walked up up up from St-Jean to Orisson Virgen. The elevation gain was probably similar to going up to Nevada Falls in Yosemite. We saw so many little farms. It’s very green here! We saw cows and sheep with bells on their necks, the cows with big bells that made a big deep sound and the sheep with little bells that tinkled like wind chimes. We stopped at Orrison Refuge and ate a bowl of soup and had a cup of coffee and met people from Finland, Denmark, Ireland, Scotland, and The Phillipines. We met these Americans on the trail, our first Americans. The guy asked us to help him with his water bottle and asked where we’re from. When we told him California he proceeded to tell us how much he hates California and it’s politics. So! We avoided that guy for sure! It rained and was so windy for the second half of today. We definitely needed ponchos! Today and tomorrow are the only strange days that involve taking a shuttle. We hiked up up up to Orrison Virgen and got picked up by a shuttle who took us back to St-Jean and will pick us up tomorrow morning and take us up to where we left off walking today. This is to break up the 5000+ foot climb over the Pyrenees into two days.

    I am discovering that traveling with a partner with MCI is challenging! David gets confused about where we are and I need to stay focused on making sure his needs are getting met while juggling all the logistics, planning, packing, etc. it had me pretty stressed last night and I only slept two hours! Things should get smoother every day as we settle into a rhythm.    Read more

  • TravelerA Camino to Remember
    2242
    Day 5

    And Over the Pyrenees!

    September 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    Today we continued up and over the Pyrenees and into Spain. Allegedly only 11 km but my fitbit says 11 miles. Could have been the path we took down the final descent…I think it was a longcut rather than a shortcut but so pretty! We were walking with our new friend Linda and there was a fork in the trail. We chose left. About 1/4 down a big rocky hillside we started to figure out that the trail we were on was the one that the nice man in the pilgrims office said NOT to take because it’s steep and dangerous. Oops! It was steep but not nearly as gnarly as about half the trails in our national parks. Plus it went through a beautiful forest!

    Here the people put bells on the collars of all their grazing animals. The sheep have little bells that sound delicate and beautiful and the cows and horses have big bells, about the size of those cans we used to buy tomato juice in back in the day!

    We’re in a tiny village called Roncesvalles with a population of 21! It’s the site of an old monastery that was built in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries as a layover for monks making the pilgrimage to Santiago. Apparently too many monks were dying as they tried to go the 40 something km from St-Jean, over the Pyrenees, and to Zubiri, so the church established the town and monastery here. As the monks departed after a night’s rest and a meal, they were given a care package that included essentials such as a bottle of beer, a bottle of wine…and some other stuff.

    David’s doing better with getting into a routine. What a relief! He still has trouble with knowing where we are and remembering where our things are but at least now he seems a bit more settled. (On our first day of this trip he lost his green beanie and his ATM card, but then he let me carry out passports and money). A big relief for me! I’m so glad we can make this trip together!    Read more

  • TravelerA Camino to Remember
    Day 5

    Despacio

    September 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    Today we walked into Zubiri, a little Basque town on the Agra River. The walk was easy today compared to walking over the Pyrenees! Some gentle ups and downs but the big feature was the final 3 km into Zubiri. It was a steady downhill on a trail the was on some of the weirder rock formations I’ll ever walk on. You just have to see the pictures! The geology nerd in me was excited! But the hiker in me was less enthused. We walked through our first forest with pines today, too. Up until now all the forests have been some type of deciduous tree that is beautiful and leaves a thick Rudy brown colored blanket of fallen leaves all over the forest floor.

    We’re trying to figure out Spanish food. Our breakfasts have been hearty and tasty, and we kind of nibble on the trail and occasionally stop for coffee, a muffin, a piece of tortilla (like a potato fritata), or a soda. Basically not a lot of fuel on the walk. But then a night when we try o get some food it’s kind of hit or miss. They eat dinner late (like 9:00) here, and finding a somewhere that serves an actual dinner is not an easy feat. Here in Zubiri there’s a bar that closes early, a bakery that serves tortillas and beer, and one restaurant with a pilgrims menu. So we went there and the food was good, but eating at 9 is a little different. Anyway, I’ll keep you posted if we learn more about eating. It’s important to keep David fueled up since he burns trough a lot of calories a evidenced b his slender build.

    David is doing great now that he’s adjusted to our daily routine!

    Tomorrow we will walk to Pamplona. It’ll be chilly in the morning but will get up to the mid-70’s by midday.    Read more

  • TravelerA Camino to Remember
    11
    Day 7

    Pamplona…but no bulls, no Hemmingway

    September 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Today was a relatively flat walk along the Agra River. Ups and downs but nothing too major. We did learn about Sundays in Spain. Want food? Coffee? Soda? Access to a bathroom? Sorry, it’s Sunday! So we are figuring out ways to load up on healthy essentials such as almonds, apples, Snickers, and Skittles! We have walked 17 miles before but never without munchies (or lunch) so we’re a bit hungry but found a place in Pamplona with Mexican food so we’re having tamales and mango smoothies! Tomorrow another similar walk and then a rest day in Puente La Reina!Read more

  • TravelerA Camino to Remember
    2121
    Day 8

    Into Puente La Reina

    September 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    Today we left Pamplona and walked up up up to the Alto de Perdón, which is where that famous metal monument is that you see on “The Way.” It wasn’t as tough as we thought it would be. Going down was rocky and slippery though! There were so many windmills on the ridge up there. We were excited to get close to them so we could hear the sound they make. They were almost entirely silent until we got really really really close. And up close they make a sound like an airplane flying overhead. It’s quiet though. If you live right next to those windmills, I think he would disregard the sound like any other kind of white noise.

    We stopped in a town along the way for a sandwich and soda at an albergue and bar. Two Israeli men invited us to share a table with them. We chatted for quite a while and learned all about how Yom Kippur, which is today, is celebrated. Some people fast but not them.

    Over the last five or 6 miles between the bottom of the hill, and the town that we’re staying in, it was quite hot. The temperature was probably about 85°F. There wasn’t much shade so we were pretty exhausted from walking in the sun. we both put on sunscreen which was great. Unfortunately I missed a little spot on the back of my leg and it is a very bright color of red.

    We are going to stay in this town, Puente La Reina, for two nights to rest our feet and legs. So far it doesn’t seem like a very exciting place. The church is pretty. Everything was closed on Sunday yesterday. Today everything is closed because it’s Monday. I’m not sure how that works! We went to a bar and the woman there told us if we come back at 8 o’clock she’ll sell us a hamburger. So right now we have walked 19+ miles and we are eating chips and cokes in our room. Hopefully we are able to get some food tonight! We did stock up on non-perishables in a little store along the way. We have a mango, some dried pineapple, and some granola bars now too. And as much as David made fun of my skittle purchase, they came in handy today when we were tired and hot. I think skittles and Lifesavers are foods that deserve their own food group! Foods that are terrible for you that elevate your blood sugar really quickly when you are doing stuff that burns through fuel!

    We’re looking forward to a rest day tomorrow. Our intention is to do a little as possible! Our feet and our legs are a little sore, but basically in good shape. We purposely chose a sleepy little town to take a rest day in, so we would not be tempted to go all over an interesting town like Pamplona and see all the cool things.    Read more

  • TravelerA Camino to Remember
    11
    Day 9

    Rest Day in Puente La Reina

    September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Today was our first rest day. We weren’t sure what a rest day would be like. Would we be bored? Would we miss the walk? How could we force ourselves to be restful when we are always walking around, even at home?

    We have four or five rest days scheduled (I can’t remember off the top of my head), and we purposely set it up to take test days in small places with little to do. We knew if we took a rest days in cities we’d be out exploring, defeating the purpose of rest days! And Puente La Reina has maybe 2000 residents? It’s not totally sleepy but not much of a tourist draw.

    Today our big objectives were to wash our clothes and to get food for tomorrow. We hand wash and drip dry our clothes and we know bigger items like shirts, leggings, and my hiking dresses take more than one day to dry so rest days are our best shot at getting the wash done. As I write, only one garment has dried! But if they don’t fry we put the damp items in a ziploc and hand them up first thing when we arrive in our next destination.

    Tomorrow and for the next four or five days it’s going to be hot. Mid 80°s and no shade. Not bad for sitting but not comfortable for walking really. So we’re leaving early tomorrow. Unfortunately that means we won’t get the nice breakfasts at the places we’re staying, but at least it will be cooler when we do the bulk of the walk! It also doesn’t get light here until after 7:00 am so we decided to try leaving at 7:00 and letting the predawn light guide us rather than walking with a headlamp earlier. We’ll see by tomorrow how it all works out! We bought apples, almonds, and granola bars to eat on the trail and will stop for coffee after 8:00-8:30 when the bars open. A bar is a little cafe that serves light food, coffee, beer, and wine. And bars are open most of the day where restaurants (and the restaurant portion of bars that offer cooked meals) are open sometimes in the early afternoon and then not until after 8 pm or so.

    So we went to the churches in town here today, and we walked over and took pictures of the puente (bridge) that the town is named for. And we got fabulous sandwiches for lunch! Toasted baguette split down the middle with chicken breast pieces, caramelized onions, brie, and sautéed mushroom sauce. Yum! We had them with a coke with lemon. Then we took a nap!

    Tomorrow we’ve got a 24 km walk to Estella!    Read more

  • TravelerA Camino to Remember
    Day 9

    Sick in Estella

    September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Today we walked to Estella but David woke up sick. It was a long, uncomfortable walk! I was so worried about him! Luckily it wasn’t too hot outside. And now, in the evening, David is all bundled in bed taking Spanish DayQuil. I’m about to go get a pizza and bring it back to the room. Tomorrow we’re going to taxi to Los Arcos instead of walking so he can rest.Read more

  • TravelerA Camino to Remember
    21113
    Day 11

    Both Feeling Sick Now in Los Arcos

    September 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    They say the Camino offers us lessons, and our job is to learn them. Our lesson right now is in humility and acceptance. There’s not much you can really do to show a virus who’s boss; clearly the virus is! 🦠 David had two feverish nights in a row and congestion and cough. But he does seem to be improving so he suggested we walk a bit today and then taxi the rest of the way. It was all fun and games until my joints started to ache and my tummy got upset, sure signs of a fever in my body. We walked about half of the way to Los Arcos and then we got a soda at one of the bars and asked them if they could call a taxi for us. We are very happy to be in our little apartment in Los Arcos. They even have one of those little under counter washer dryer units. We are very excited! We are hoping to wash laundry tonight in the machine!!!

    Today we passed Irache, a little town that has a free wine fountain. Like they put 10 liters of wine in it every morning and people can just serve themselves. They say you should pour wine into your pilgrim’s scallop shell. I don’t know how well that works since most people have their shell tied firmly onto their backpack. We had a late start today because we spent some time at the Pharmacy which doesn’t open until 9:00 am. So we missed the big clump of early departure pilgrims. But we kept passing and falling behind a Spanish couple. At Irache the wife opened her mouth under the wine fountain and drank enough that she was pretty drunk, singing at the top of her lungs along the trail. Her husband was getting really annoyed with her. Maybe the wine fountain should come with a warning label!! We didn’t try the wine ourselves but like every single pilgrim, we had to check it out and take pictures of it!!

    Today was the first day that was kind of emotionally rough. We’ve had plenty of hard physical days! They say the repeated physical challenges is what makes the Camino a spiritual experience, I guess kind of like what fasting is supposed to do in a lot of spiritual traditions. For me today had some revelations about acceptance. Of course I know in my head that David’s cognitive state is in decline, and that I need to accept that some of our dreams for the future just aren’t going to be. And I know I’m my mind that I need to really take care of my own physical, mental, and spiritual health so I can be there for him. But something about being sick myself and worried about being physically unable to be Super Woman really drove it home today and I was feeling all teary. It sounds weird but I think actually accepting our reality emotionally is quite a positive change. Anyway, not to be all woo woo and over sharing, but I think it’s all part of being here.

    Coming up on the town where we agreed we’d call a taxi was so great today! When we saw the tower on the church in town and then found a bar with cold drinks it was about as good as anything can ever get! It’s in the mid-80°s with little shade and hotter than one might think.    Read more

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