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Bert’s Loop
  • Regina and Ian
  • Regina and Ian

Bert’s Loop

A 552-day adventure by Regina and Ian Read more
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  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler

    Normanton is ready for the Rodeo

    June 10, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Parade in the town followed by some fun events.
    Time trial racing, riders having a few runs at a 200 meter sprint. Winner finishing at 69.9kph.
    Cross cut saw racing
    Ordinary beer (Great Northern And XXXX - no wonder so many locals are drinking Rum)Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler
    Did I mention big hats? This was at 10pm.

    Normanton Rodeo

    June 11, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Boots.
    Big hats
    Bling jeans (on the girls)
    Lot of steers.
    Beer (oh dear - XXXX and Great Northern are dreadful)
    Country music
    The treasures in the Rodeo crown are the horses. Beautiful.

    If you want some Rodeo action you could google it. I’m not much of a cinematographer. I get distracted by the action and forget the filming.Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler

    Day 3 of the rodeo

    June 12, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Truth is, some of the events are cruel. I like the events where the horses look like they are loving the chase. Not so keen on bucking broncos or steer wrestling, the animals are clearly distressed. Interesting to see such a different lifestyle and way of being in the world. There are quite a few Aboriginal cowboys, but no Aboriginal women in the events. Lots of glamorous white girls in the barrel racing - $10,000 prize money. A mentoring program for young women and would be for reconciliation I reckon. They would just love to hear that suggestion from a bloody know all Easterner. 😂Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler

    Karumba until Sunset

    June 14, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    This is where “the Outback meets the sea”.
    Only a stones throw from Normanton but there is a gulf of difference. Big cowboy hats are swapped for costal fisher person vibe.
    There are still too many really ugly fishing shirts - but - that’s a first world problem. At first I thought ‘Nomads were to blame, but these walking billboard fisherman are a 40-55 year old blokes. Someone out here has a shirt printing business who is making a killing, resulting in lots of big fish eyes watch us on the streets.

    The towns story is one of innovation and survival. It looks like it is doing pretty well right now despite several periods of dire straights in its history. Presently fishing is huge, Barramundi and prawns in particular. There is also a very large livestock shipping depot (cattle). And tourism 🥴
    Did you know, that the Gulf only has one low tide every 24 hours. The proximity of New Guinea to The Cape prevents the normal tidal cycle that we see on the east coast. AND the difference between high and low tide levels can be as much as 30k. I don’t think I want to be here when that is happening.

    It’s 32.8 at Karumba. Sitting here with the breeze off the Gulf it feels yummy warm and cool at the same time.
    We are at the Sunset Tavern. Which is renowned for the sunsets (surprise) and mud crab meals.
    Sun still has 3 fingers before sunset so a sunset photo will follow. (It’s happy hour so here’s hoping I can manage a decent sunset photo)    Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler
    1

    Leichhardt Falls - Bog #1

    June 15, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    What an incredible free camp. We will stay 2 nights at least.

    There is no water falling at the moment - it is the Dry after all. During the wet season the entire rock shelf where our van is parked would be flowing water trying to find a way into the river bed below. It would be great to see, but it would be such an effort to get here as kilometres of the road in both directions would be under water.

    Out by the causeway there are vans of 4 or 5 fisher types on the upstream side of the falls. It’s funny how many cars/van have boats up here. There are also a few Nomads who tend not to venture far from the road and gather close together. Three campers including us have ventured across the rock shelf a few hundred meters with outlooks into the Gorge. With this view I reckon it was the right choice.

    We are on the Savannah Way, 62k from Burketown and 152k from Normanton which we left Tuesday morning. The road was mostly gravel of excellent condition.

    This is such a cruel place. Beautiful sandy beach, big rock jump off into a deep pool. The real and present Crocodile danger that stops you from getting wet. Aaaargh.

    Today we got bogged briefly for the first time. Lesson learned about maintaining momentum in soft sand before a tight turn with a caravan in tow. Luckily it’s winter so we are digging with the mercury is just under 30°. We are grateful for the generosity of strangers who helped out. It’s a pay it forward system so we will look out for someone else who will need a hand. We took some beers over during Happy Hour triggering a fun exchange of stories.

    The evening last night was sensational. A dinner that would be hard to beat, temperature in the high 20°’s, neighbours out of ear shot and perfectly clear, star blazed sky. It’s truly like we were in the cosmos and alone. (Really - quite alone - no internet connectivity). I do have an app to help identify stars/constellations - so much fun. Crocs are unlikely to visit us up on the cliff top.

    Wednesday, we breakfasted on the very edge of the escarpment, then walked north from the camp along Leichhardt River. So many birds, so many critters and their tracks. Temperature heading above 30° again so long lunch and lazy afternoon is demanded. (You might guess that has contributed to this lengthy post)    Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler

    Gregory River

    June 16, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    The camp sites we find just keep getting better.
    On the swiftly running river, with crystal clear water, shades with Melaleuca and Palms.
    NO CROCS SO WE HAVE BEEN SWIMMING!
    Very few other campers despite it being the weekend. Off to Boodjamulla tomorrow after 2 nights in this free camp.Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler

    Not my first Rodeo

    June 18, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Gregory Downs is hosting a Campdraft competition. It’s a much more laid-back event than Normanton. The beer is cheaper and I don’t think the Amulance drivers will have much to do.
    There are 127 riders competing in the Open event and an unknown number in the Encouragement event. Finals still to come.
    Not much sponsorship money at Gregory so there is no water truck to spray and calm the dust. We will need another dip in the river when we get back to camp.
    Lack of prize money doesn’t diminish the quantity and quality of horses and riders. At the big Rodeo in Normanton, the Camp Draft had a hefty $150 entry fee.
    Some of these Cowboys have amazing trailers that are horse float / caravan combo. Many travel as a convoy, with horse float, caravan and possibly other vehicles. They spend a lot of time moving around the state going to events. We have recognised a number of competitors from Normanton - or is it a case of “see one Cowboy - seen ’em all”
    The Gregory Downs Station have supplied hundreds of cattle which they are bring in and out on a number of Road Trains. The cattle only get used once and then back on the truck and home again.    Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler

    Critter update from the Gulf

    June 18, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Several Crocs - none in our camp sites😶
    Great Egret; Little Egret; Pied Egret; Black Necked Stork.
    Rainbow Bee-Eater (stunning bird)
    Bush Thick Knee (Curlew), Apostlebird, little Wodswallow, white-browed Woodswallow, Black-backed Butcherbird (although our book says their distribution is on Cape York down the the Palmer R. )
    Great Bowerbird.
    Any number of Wrens and Wagtails that are too quick to identify.
    Crimson Finch, Double-barred Finch
    Black Kites; Little Eagle. Wedge-tales Eagle, White-bellied Sea-Eagle, Brown Goshawk.

    Photos from a book.    Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler

    Boodjamulla - night walk

    June 19, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    If someone is telling you about Boodjamulla gets all dreamy eyed and starts waxing lyrical, it’s because it deserves the wrap.

    We did an evening walk along the Gorge, and surprisingly, we were the only ones out there except for a couple on Paddle Boards. (We actually me them a few nights later at The Billabong at Camooweal, and it turns out they are from Kilcare. ???? ). Our timing is perfect, as we descended the last, very precarious section in the very last of the daylight. We finished the walk in moonlight.Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler

    Boodjamulla - morning paddle

    June 21, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Not quite the crack of dawn, but we were the first people on the water and the snapping turtles were still out as we paddled. The colours were so different from the previous evening.
    There is a short portage around the Indarri Falls to get into the Upper Gorge, which we had seen from the heights of the Duwadarri Lokout the previous evening.Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler
    4
    Fossil of leg bone of the giant Thunderbird - Dromornithid.Balbaroo fangaroo

    Riversleigh - via Miyumba Bush Camp

    June 21, 2021 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    As far as World Heritage sites go, to the west of us there is only Kakadu, Uluru, and Shark Bay. Here, we are at Riversleigh (Australian Fossil Mammal Site).
    The laying down of vast quantities of limestone all those Millenia ago, trapped evidence of teaming wildlife in a rainforest region when the Australian continent was still part of Gondwana. It seems like every rock here has some record of a creatures life and passing.
    The peak also offer a incredible views of the plains which are definitely no longer rainforest. We were there at sunset and the panorama was fantastic.

    The Gregory river has been a bit of a constant for us for a while now. We crossed it just after Burketown, again at Gregory and after we tracked westward and then east again, another encounter with the Gregory further south at Riversleigh. The roads between involved about 90k on dusty but mostly good dirt road out to Boodjamulla, and then a little over 100k on equally dusty, but no so well groomed and rocky dirt until Riversleigh.
    Thank goodness for the remote tyre pressure monitors that Mo gave me. We picked up a puncture mid-way to Riversleigh and the sensor gave us early warning, preventing major damage to the tyre/wheel.
    Our campsite provided a beautiful sunrise. It’s a basic camp near beautiful river crossings of the Gregory and O’Shannassy Rivers, and nearby the Riversleigh Fossil site.    Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler
    1

    Camooweal

    June 22, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Overnight free camp.
    I am getting out the Binoculars. We are on the banks of Lake Canellan which is the most southerly of the two billabongs just south of town. Plenty of bird varieties on show.
    Towns population is 36, so I should not be surprised that the Pub’s (very large and professional looking) kitchen was not open for lunch. There might be 200 overnighters in the area. The Billabongs have vans camped up every 50-100 meters on their western sides yet it still feels very private.
    It’s now just before 7am and the sun is starting a gentle blaze. The is so much bird activity on the billabong, but it feels subdued like they are waiting for day break before disturbing the peace.
    (Later) Hark! The parrots are awake, so much for the muffled activity. The ducks are playing a fly/run game across the water. (My book tells me they are Eurasian Coots). They gallop the surface for about 60 meters with coordinated wings & feet before touching down again. Hilarious.
    Our stay here was bracketed by a fabulous sunset and a better sunrise.
    Off to Mount Isa today for a big grocery shop.    Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler

    Mount Isa

    June 23, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Restock.
    It has been some weeks since we had a choice of produce in a supermarket. Most of us live in a very luck country. There are however some significant discrepancies. Not just getting access to mounds of cheap, fresh fruit & veg, but also reasonably priced fuel. $1.80 per L. (I know / it will get worse as our travels continue) is a bit steep. There are cattle farms here that store millions of litres. The vehicles used in mining have 3,000 litre tanks. It’s not like the supply lines are inadequate. Then there is the non existent internet connectivity - governments and telco corporates need to have a hard look at themselves. Cultural stimulation comes in many different flavours out here as well.

    I’ve been surprised by first impressions. I was expecting an affluent: prosperous town. I am sure there are obscene amounts of money being made here, but it is not widely/evenly distributed. We have seen a number of boarded up businesses, and there are the ugly scars left by mining that come right into town. There are also some scared individuals , and I fear the indigenous folk are over represented in that count.

    We will pamper the car while we are here, new tyres, service, fit a snorkel. Might go as far as a wash. Perhaps a hair cut or a spa visit for us as well. We will also get out on our bikes to explore the town and let Mount Isa delight us. Hopefully there will be some nice pics.

    Geographically we are on the Leichhardt River. We camped on the falls of the same name to the north while we were still on the Savanna Way. Wow, that was about 800k’s ago. Unsurprisingly here in Mount Isa during the Dry the river is completely empty of water.

    We will credit the next 3 posts to the Mount Isa experience. You will see that it was not a waste of time.    Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler

    Damn - Mount Isa

    June 25, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    A treasure just 18k out of town is Lake Moondarra . Well used on the weekends.

    The Dam has a surface area just slightly smaller than Sydney Harbour.

    From a high vantage - the views of the surrounding hills are stunning.Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler

    #93 - 238.03 U

    June 27, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We are staying in a free camp which is on the site of a former town that was built in rapid time to allow the mining crews to come in and start digging for Uranium.
    Ore was discovered by some prospectors whose truck broke down. One bloke Norm McConaghy walks of in disgust leaving his mate Clem Walton to fix the truck. Luckily, North took the Geiger Counter with him, and Lo and behold, the counter goes off the dial. Luckily for Regina and Ian because now we have this fantastic camp site. The mine ran from shortly after discovery in 1954 until 1982 when the miners packed up their toys and went home. This included all the houses and public buildings for a town of 1,100 souls. They left the concrete slabs of the buildings, so the site is like a giant caravan park but way better. The slabs are widely separated and Way fewer people than a caravan park because there are no amenities.
    Great place for sight seeing, bike riding and relaxing.    Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler

    And just up the road - Turquoise Dam.

    June 27, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    7km cycle up the once busy mining road is the Turquoise Dam. A rather romantic name for a big hole left by Uranium miners. But it is pretty.
    Why is it so turquoise?

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler

    Love our bikes

    June 27, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    So good travelling with a bike.

    It extends the adventure, and lets you see places that you miss in a car. Riding a previously driven road is often a completely different experience.

    We will probably do 30,000k on this trip, I think a few hours spent outside the car is beneficial.

    It’s a good way to avoid incidental kilometres on the car, and avoid $’s at the bowser.

    Yesterday’s we arrived at the trail head to a sacred aboriginal site with caravan in tow. It was obvious that the road was pretty sketchy, so we dropped the bikes off and away we went. Such a reward when we got there. We may have decided to skip it if we didn’t have the cycle option.

    Nothing better than exploring a new town by bike. People often go out of their way to talk to us, which would be a missed experience if we were in the car.

    It’s a good way to get some exercise.

    It’s way better than walking [in my opinion - Ian]    Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler
    Run, Yoga, Breakfast. Bliss.

    Gregory River keeps calling.

    June 29, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We have completed the loop from Gregory > Boodjamulla > Mount Isa > Cloncurry > Gregory on our way to Borroloola and then hopefully (COVID permitting) we launch into the NT. Feels like we are on the precipice of a new and bigger adventure.
    So happy to be in Gregory again. We thought we would try the free camp on the River near the town, but again it was packed tighter than pre-COVID City Rail. So we happily came down the road to our previously visited, much less trampled site which has only one other group.

    Perfect.

    Dinner tonight will be Pasta and Browned Garlic Sauce with Prawns, and a Camp Fire Damper. Can it get any better than this?

    Yeah it can .... the other campers moved out so we stayed another night. We cycled 18k each way to Gregory to make some phone calls - and plans a are flexed.    Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler

    Rendezvous with the NT

    July 1, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    There is a ramrod straight line on the map that we are approaching. It’s now just 50k away. It is in the lap of the (virus) gods if we cross it tomorrow.
    For the moment we are campers up in Hells Gate Roadhouse. Perhaps a portent for the road quality we might encounter up the ways.

    A little episode to describe on our way here. Crossing the Nicholson River causeway at Doomadgee. It’s a long higgledy piggledy affair, and we are about 25m from the end when without warning on the UHF a RoadTrain hurtles down the bank and onto the causeway trapping us with nowhere to go and then he keeps inching forward. Regina in the pilot seat was not happy with development and hands over to copilot. We do a swap and a quick bit of reverse parking to get the van and car onto the lip of the causeway, fold in the mirrors and old mate continues on his way. Phew.    Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler

    Across the border!

    July 2, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    I was mildly surprised that there were no border checks. I had visions of a nurse being there with one of those temperature guns. Nope. Nothing. Road was a bit hectic in parts, was a bit apprehensive about crossing the Robinson river, but picture shows Ian in the middle - not deep. The road had been graded not so long ago. Free camped at Kangaroo Creek and were the only ones there. Lovely site (after we cleaned it up), great bird life.Read more

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler

    NT Border

    July 2, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We made it across....
    There is no wall...
    There is no welcoming committee...
    There are no worries mate.
    There is a sign.

  • Regina and IanBert’s LoopTraveler
    How 7 Emus got its name

    Seven Emu - Day 1

    July 3, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    This might be epic. Better do daily updates.

    Came in from the free camp at Kangaroo Creek after crossing the Robinson River twice. We encounter the Robinson again where we are camped, high on its southern bank. At this point it’s 80 meter width is tidal and very deep. That and the resident 4+ meter croc means we won’t be crossing it here.
    We’ve just returned from a walk to the river where some of the Station owners family had been fishing. They were netting bait fish which were being chased by small Bull Sharks, and then using hand lines to catch some Barra. One of the boys caught a Queenie which they didn’t really want because they had an enormous one the night before. They filleted it and gave it to us so we had fresh fish for dinner. Cooked in a light coconut/curry sauce - amazing.
    The family here were made (in)famous when their antics rounding up wild steers was broadcast on the ABC’s “Outback Ringers”.
    The blazing sunset from the vantage of our camp was wonderfully prolonged.
    The-day-bed-in-a-shed was a wonderful vantage for the sunset and some star gazing.
    What a day.

    ALMOST ZERO INTERNET UP HERE - will add some pics sometime    Read more

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