• Gail Woodward

A Horse with No Name

58-dniowa przygoda według Gail Czytaj więcej
  • Kings Canyon Rim Walk 6klms

    19 lipca 2016, Australia ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    In the afternoon we headed to Kings Canyon to do the Rim Walk. We made sure we had the usual (food, water, sunscreen, insect repellent, hats, boots, headtorch etc.) Haydn had his gators and walking pole and I had the backpack. It said to allow 3.5hours although as a rule we have found the times to be very generous. Nevertheless we made sure we had plenty of time.
    As an aside, it never ceases to amaze me how we always see people on the trails with kids, grannies, thongs (flipflops for you Americans), no hats, singlets, no water bottles etc. Bot sure where they think they are going as they start out on these walks?!
    We finished the walk in 2 hours and saw plenty of spectacular sites including the Garden of Eden (a lush oasis, down between the sandstone cliffs). The Garden of Eden is a natural spring waterhole surrounded by local and exotic plants, tree, palms and ferns, all visible from the bridge above.
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  • Kings Canyon to Finke Gorge N'Park

    20 lipca 2016, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    We left Kings Canyon and traveled along Mareenie Loop Road (a dirt road section of the Red Centre Way) back towards Alice Springs. Along the way we saw Gosse Crater, a comet crater, 20klms wide and 140 million years old. The local Arrernte Aboriginals believe it was formed when a woman dancing across the milky way, dropped her baby, leaving the crater formation.
    There are wild camels in the area but we only saw brumbys. We also called into Albert Namatjira's house near Hermannsburg. Namatjira was one of Australia's most celebrated Aboriginal painters, his watercolour paintings reflecting the landscapes of this area. Namatjira was the first Aboriginal to be granted citizenship, allowing him to vote and own property among other things.
    Our destination for today is Finke Gorge National Park, where Palm Valley (yet another desert oasis) is located.
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  • Palm Valley Campgrounds, Finke N/Park

    20 lipca 2016, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    We instantly loved the campgrounds and stayed for a few days to do the walks. Great amenities with solar hot water showers and Palm Creek running past our front door. The campgrounds included picturesque escapements all around (the photos are taken from our camp site) ...communal fireplaces, cleanest gas BBQs we've encountered to date, shade structures, current information...the ranger hosts talks and campfire conversations Fri and Sun through May - August. Czytaj więcej

  • Palm Valley and Finke Gorge walks

    21 lipca 2016, Australia ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Finke Gorge National Park has towering sandstone cliffs and the mighty Finke River (one of the world's oldest waterways). Palm Valley is the only place in the world where you'll see the Central Australian Red Cabbage Palm growing. The distance from our campground was a 30 minute 4x4 drive (6klms) into the valley and then you have a choice of 2 walks which take you further up the gorge. The track included some river/creek crossings, soft sand and rocky gradients. We met an Israeli couple and German travellers at Palm Valley. Heading south tomorrow towards the NT/SA border to make our way towards Adelaide. Czytaj więcej

  • Kalarranga Lookout and Mparra Track

    21 lipca 2016, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Today I walked both of these trails just out from our camping grounds. Mparra Track is 5klm, an estimated 2 hour walk, and Kalarranga Lookout is 1.5klm (40 mins). At a gentle pace, I was able to do them both in 2 hours with a well marked track. The tracks cover a large amount of ground and terrains. There is so much to photograph and it's difficult to choose just 6 to put up as an example of the sights and views that present themselves on the walk. Czytaj więcej

  • Kulgera NT to Coober Pedy SA

    23 lipca 2016, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We farewelled Finke Gorge and once again drove through Owen NP onto the Stuart Highway, staying overnight at Kulgera on the border of NT/SA. We met a dozen or more retirees and visitors to Australia, driving Citroën CV2 from the southern states as part of an organised driving tour. 66 of these little cars are spending several weeks driving around NT.
    We left Kulgera and headed across the border for lunch at Coober Pedy South Australia (846klm north of Adelaide). John's Pizza Bar is rated No.5 in Australia by Trip Advisor...so Capricciosa Pizza it was! (Yum) John has several walls of fame in his shop, showing the celebrities who have eaten there and the awards he has received.
    Coober Pedy is the world's major supplier of opals and is unique in its underground living...homes, shops, churches and accommodation. More recently prehistoric marine creature fossils, as old as 115 million years old, have been found including those of an Umoonasaurus named after one of the mines.
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  • Port Augusta South Australia

    24 lipca 2016, Australia ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Overnighting at The Standpipe Golf Motor Inn, we enjoyed a well earned rest after a long days driving.
    Port Augusta was named after the wife of the first Governor of South Australia. It sits on the Spencer Gulf and was a traditional meeting place for Aboriginal peoples. More recently, Port Augusta has prospered as an outback shipping port.
    The weather was cold, overcast and drizzling however we headed to the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens for brunch. Such a gorgeous area with all manner of natives.
    Before leaving Port Augusta we spent some time in Wadlata Outback Centre, both informative and interactive. Off to Adelaide now to get the FJ serviced, call in on some friends and repack and reorganise for the next leg of our travel.
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  • Adelaide

    26 lipca 2016, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Adelaide is the only Australian capital to be named after a woman. In 1836 Captain Hindmarsh submitted a request to His Majesty King William IV that the new capital be named after his Majesty or his consort Queen Adelaide. The king chose Adelaide.
    Adelaide greeted us with wind, rain and a cold snap however lucky for us, Stephen and Leah Arrizzo and Mandy Mattiske and Lee, were warm and welcoming. We hung out at Stephen and Leah's beautful home, repacked the FJ and had it serviced in preparation for the final leg of our trip.
    Today saw us head into The Basin Haircutters (Mandy and Steve's Salon) where we met several of the staff and enjoyed some hair pampering and terrific coffee. Haydn caught up with Spencer from nak and we wandered the Central Markets in the city.
    The first South Australians in the Adelaide region were the Kaurna (pronounced Garna) people. The area was known to them as Tandanya - the place of the red kangaroo. Part of the Kaurna people's spiritual connection to the country is Tjilbruke, an anesteral warrior, the keeper of fire and peace, who journeyed through the landscape in the dreamtime leaving his mark where he rested - thus his tears became springs.
    We visited Henley Beach and had a bite to eat at Swedish Tarts. The wide range of tarts and my savoury crepe was delish with prosciutto, sundried tomatoes and parmesan...yum!
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  • Perth

    28 lipca 2016, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Whilst in Adelaide, we took the opportunity to fly to Perth for 2 days to see Haydn's Aunty Betty who at 87, was recently hospitalized. We stayed in Alexander Heights with Haydn's cousin Josephine and her husband Jo and caught up with some of his family and friends.
    Haydn lived in Perth from when he was 18months old, and his family arrived by ship from England, until he was 24. Haydn's mother and father, and his father's two brothers and wives, all emigrated to Australia. I had only been to Perth once before, with Haydn in summer, early in 1990. Perth had obviously changed and grown considerably.
    It was great to see Aunty Betty, cousins and their children and grandchildren as well as friends, Rex and Mary. Although it was a short trip, we really appreciated how welcomed we felt and the time we were able to spend catching up and sharing memories of "the good old days".
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  • Adelaide to Wilpena Pound Flinders Range

    31 lipca 2016, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    As we drove out of Adelaide this morning, the weather was definitely warming up however there were predictions of more rain and cold weather for S.A., and southern parts of Australia, on it's way. We passed through a few light showers of rain until we turned off at Port Augusta to drive inland through the Flinders Ranges.
    As we drove through Quorn, we stopped at the iconic Pichi Richi Railway Station which was built in the 1870s. Many of you will have seen Quorn in films such as "Gallipoli" and "The Water Diviner". The Pichi Richi Railway is narrow gauge and the last remaining portion of the original "Old Ghan" railway line. You can still catch the steam train and do a few different trips which would be fantastic. Alas we have a schedule and onwards we drove.
    Stopping for lunch at the century old Hawker Hotel (notice the xxxx sign out the front) we then headed onto Wilpena Pound. Wilpena Pound is a natural amphitheatre of mountains and is in the North Flinders Ranges.
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  • Wilpena Pound Flinders Ranges NP

    31 lipca 2016, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Wilpena Pound (Ikara) is located in the Flinders Ranges National Park, South Australia (429 kilometres north of Adelaide). Adnyamathanha people have lived in the Flinders Ranges for tens of thousands of years and the region remains of enormous significance today. It supports natural and semi-arid ecosystems.
    Wilpena is very popular for bushwalkers with half a dozen walking trail options in and around the surrounding ancient mountain ranges. These ranges are very unique, adding to the variety of terrain we've seen, and not like anything we have come across to date on our trip. The rivergums are huge and majestic. Plants and animals offered a welcomed distraction from the cool, drizzling weather although it was a pleasant walking temperature which seemed to add to the whole atmosphere of the pound. So glad we stayed overnight to see more of the area.
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  • Wilpena Pound to Arkaroola, S.A.

    1 sierpnia 2016, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    As the rain continued to drizzle, we farewelled Wilpena Pound and drove up to Blinman for lunch at the pub. Our plan was to travel inland through the ranges to Arkaroola however the publican at Blinman told us the road had been closed with the wet weather and it was $1000 per tyre fine for any vehicle who traveled on a closed road. Therefore we had to drive back to the main road (part of the Outback Way drive) and continue up through Leigh Creek and back inland at Copley. Arkaroola is 129klm from the turnoff on dirt road. Parts were mushy and we even got a bit sideways in one section! Other than sheep, cattle, horses, and the odd emu, we were lucky enough to see an echnidna run across the road. As I approached, the echnidna poked its nose into the bush and froze.
    The further inland we went the drier the road became however the rain followed us in so we are tucked up waiting to see what the weather brings tomorrow.
    Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary is located in the Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park. It is 640klms by road from Adelaide; 100 klms from the nearest small town over the western horizon. This makes it one of Australia's most isolated villages.
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  • Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary

    2 sierpnia 2016, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary has rugged peaks, outback plains, waterholes, gorges and an unmistakable landscape. In 2012, most of the 60,000 hectare pastoral property was made a Protected Area by the South Australian Government. It contains the oldest part of the Flinders Ranges, granite and sedimentary rock that was laid down in an ancient sea nearly 1600 million years ago.
    Located in the North Flinders Ranges, the Ridgetop (Sillers Lookout overlooks a 1000m deep Yudnamutana Gorge, Lake Frome salt lake and plains) and Waterhole tours are world renowned. We went on the Ridge Top tour turning around at Sillers Lookout. Rick, our guide, was passionate, knowledgeable and a skilled 4WD driver. He drove us 4.5hours along the track pointing out rocks, fauna and flora as well as giving us the abridged version of the history of Arkaroola and the area surrounding it. Fascinating!
    Arkaroola contains some plants unknown elsewhere, the rare Menzel's Wattle and the endangered yellow-footed rock wallaby. We saw dozens during our tour. :) There are five main walking trails which highlight different terrains and a range of vegetation. I walked the Acacia Ridge trail which is made up of Blue Mine Conglomerate (coarse crystals containing quartz, a mineral found in granite, and igneous rock). The summit was 566m and the ridge walk was 5.6klms. Views were great!
    Within the NP are hot springs formed from an enormous geyser explosion...a phenomenon not find anywhere else in the world...amazing. You can't swim in them though as they are radio active.
    They have two observatories with computer aided telescopes. It is supposed to be one of the best places in the Southern Hemisphere to gaze at the night sky with over 300 clear nights per year together with the elevation and location within Australia. I took the opportunity to go stargazing and it was mind boggling.
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  • Marree, South Australia

    3 sierpnia 2016, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Marree (gateway to Lake Eyre Basin) 3.8.16
    Driving back along the dirt road, we called into Copley for an infamous quondong tart. We then followed the B83 Outback Highway to Lyndhurst calling into Talc Alf's place (a National treasure) to see his artwork and purchasing a small souvenir. The highway between Copley and Maree is mostly dirt with some bitumen sections. We booked a room at the Marree Hotel for the night. A beautiful hotel with one room filled with memorabilia associated with Tom Kruse, iconic mailman who drove the mail run along the Birdsville track and the subject of the film "Back to the Bush". Marree is also the junction of the iconic Birdsville and Oodnadatta tracks.
    We stayed in the units behind the Marree Hotel which was built in 1883. About 60klms out of Maree, are remnants of the 4.2klm long image of an Aboriginal man, known as the Marree Man. The figure has been ploughed into the top of a plateau on the edge of Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre. It was spotted by air in the 1990's and its origin unknown.
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  • Oodnadatta, South Australia

    4 sierpnia 2016, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Marree To Oodnadatta (SA) 4.8.16
    From Marree to Oodnadatta is 410klm on the dirt, so I drove the first half to Williams Creek, where we stopped for lunch at the pub. On the way we called into the southern section of Lake Eyre and walked down to the edge of the salt pan. There were some interesting flowering plants both along the roadside and by the lake. Lake Eyre, Australia's largest salt lake and lowest point below sea level (15.2m).
    Haydn then took over and drove the remaining 200klm to Oodnadatta where we stayed overnight at the Pink Roadhouse. Often our trip has run alongside the Old Ghan railway line including the railway bridge over the Neale River just before Oodnadatta. Oodnadatta is a historic pioneering town with a large Aboriginal population and a number of overseas visitors on a working visa.
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  • Mt Dare SA: most remote pub in Australia

    5 sierpnia 2016, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    5.8.16
    From Oodnadatta we travelled to Mt Dare (Witjira National Park) via Hamilton Station and Eringa Waterhole to collect our satellite phone and stay overnight. On our way we were delighted to see flowering Sturt Desert Peas growing wild in the edges of the dirt road, flocks of budgerigars, finches and galahs, a bearded dragon and the odd red kangaroo or three. Mt Dare had rain (28mm) over a month ago and yet alternate routes had been carved out as sections still held water due to the clay soil and deep roadsides. We had a great cabin (brand new) and the staff were friendly and helpful. The Premium Unleaded fuel was also a bonus. Czytaj więcej

  • Mt Dare into the Simpson Desert Day 1

    6 sierpnia 2016, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    (6.8.16)
    In the morning we drove 70klms onto Dalhousie mound springs, before heading into the Simpson Desert. The Finke River also ends its long journey from the McDonnell Ranges (near Alice Springs) on the western edge of the Simpson Desert. Dalhousie Springs (language name: Irrwanyere) are part of the mounds which make up the outer rim of the Great Artesian Basin. The artesian water comes from deep within the earth and is estimated to be millions of years old. It was much larger than we imagined having visited Mataranka Springs in Qld and the water was a warm temperature similar to a heated pool. From here we drove 70 klms to Purni Bore where it is necessary to attach the sand flag to your vehicle.
    The Simpson Desert is 170 000 square klm expanse stretching from south east of Alice Springs NT, into SA and QLD. The first vehicle crossing was in 1962. It has 1100 rolling dunes of deep red sand and 4 - 6 different tracks or lines to choose from when traversing it. We drove until the track broke into 2 lines - the French and WAA line - we turned onto the WAA and after a couple of hours set up camp just before Lynnies Junction.
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  • Simpson Desert Day 2

    7 sierpnia 2016, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    7.8.16
    The Simpson Desert is one of the best examples of parallel dunal desert in the world. Prevailing winds formed the longitudinal patterns of the fine sand, dunes which vary in colour and heights up to 40m high. As it is in an arid part of Australia, it's annual rainfall is around 130mm, just slightly higher than the Sahara Desert in Africa. We are extremely lucky to have timed our trip with an unusually high rain event this year meaning that there is still water in parts of the desert, and the flowers are stunning. It is hard to believe we are indeed in a desert!
    We were warned that water at Lake Tamblyn meant we could not continue on the WAA line and needed to cut across to the French line, along the Erabena Track, which we did today. From the French Line we drove to where Knolls Track intersects, and decided to drive down to see the lake. We saw the Approdinna Attora Knolls (limestone capped, flat topped hills) and what looked like several salt lakes, then came across some water but not over the road. Several cars came in the opposite direction suggesting the road was now open but without driving further it is hard to say. We pitched camp about 7 or 8 klms in on the Knolls Track.
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  • Simpson Desert Day 3

    8 sierpnia 2016, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    8.8.16
    Overnight temperatures weren't as cold as the night before recording 5 degrees celcius just before sunrise. We were woken by a chorus of birds.
    Breaking camp, we headed back onto the French Line meeting 5 vehicles (most from the Townsville 4WD club and a couple from NT). We drove on only to have our sand flag pole sever off its mount, and in need of some repairs. Then onto Poeppel corner (corner of SA, NT, QLD), named after the surveyor who marked the border between QLD and SA in 1880, an entry in the visitor's book, several photos and on our way again.
    From Poeppel Corner we turned northward into NT, before crossing into QLD along the QAA Line for our final night. The dunes are getting larger although further apart and more traffic as vehicles enter the desert traveling east to west. We have only seen one vehicle towing a trailer, the rest have been 4WDs and motorbikes.
    We found an ideal location overlooking a swale (interdune valley) with plentiful wood for a fire and beautiful red, black and white birds and flocks of wild green budgies. The night sky has been spectacular since entering the desert! Finishing off the wine and port, we read by the fire then hit the sack with warm overnight temperatures.
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  • Simpson Desert to Birdsville Day 4

    9 sierpnia 2016, Australia ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    9.8.16
    We awoke to a beautiful sunrise and birdsong once again...we could get used to this :) On the track by 9.30am and heading into Birdsville along the QAA Line. The last dune is the infamous Big Red, Nappanerica, given its nickname by Denis Bartell, it is the tallest dune crossed by travellers. Before we knew it we were face to face with Big Red and ready to make a run up. There are 6 or 7 tracks so Haydn chose the one which looked to be the second steepest. The track was loose and dry and we watched as another vehicle made several unsuccessful attempts. Haydn decided to give it a go without any change to the current setup. We had a small audience on top watching and encouraging us and made it to within a metre of the crest. Reversing down Haydn dropped the tyre pressure and took another run...the FJ easily nailed the dune and we were over! Yayyy!! Then it was into Birdsville for lunch and a hot shower.
    So proud of all the work Haydn did to make this dream a reality 💋. A special thanks to family and friends who helped, encouraged and supported us. 🎉
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  • Birdsville, Queensland

    10 sierpnia 2016, Australia ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    Birdsville is nestled between the sands of the Simpson Desert and the gibbers of Sturt's Stony Desert. It was initially called Diamantina Crossing when Matthew Flynn built a depot there after crossing the Diamantina River and then renamed Birdsville due to the wildlife in the area. We saw some keen bird watchers taking photographs around Big Red and will be looking up some of the birds we saw on our crossing.
    Curried Camel pies, quandong pies or custard tarts with lemon myrtle are some of the local delicacies made at the bakery. Camel and horse races, the Birdsville Bash, access to the desert and outback experience are some of the draw cards which attract visitors to Birdsville. We were impressed with how attractive and tidy the town was, the generous spacing of buildings, obvious pride and genuine friendly hospitality we experienced.
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  • Birdsville to Windorah QLD

    11 sierpnia 2016, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We are on our homeward leg now after an amazing 8 weeks. There have been so many highlights and we feel very grateful to live in this expansive and unique country of ours. Haydn is delighted with how the FJ Cruiser has preformed...it has done everything he wanted and more.
    So beautiful to see water in Lake Eyre, wildflowers in the Simpson Desert, stunning sunsets and sunrises, starlir skies, a green and lush inland area and flowing rivers...
    We've loved all the wildflowers and wildlife especially the variety of flowering plants and birds. Over 12000klms traversed... on bitumen, across water, dirt, mud, sand and rock. All manner of conditions with a special shout out to the courtesy of others on the road, acknowledging one another with a casual wave upon passing. 👍
    We had a great support base at home in Townsville plus friends and relatives looking out for us and following us on our travel blog and fb....a huge thank you. It couldn't have happened without their encouragement. Special mention to mum and dad, Ella and Nathan, and Nelson and Gabby. 💞
    (Thought I'd share some animal pics from our trip on this footprint)
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  • Windorah to Longreach QLD

    12 sierpnia 2016, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Longreach is situated on the Thomson River, Central West Queensland. It derives its name from the 'long reach' of the Thomson. Longreach is quite the tourist hub with many visitors arriving by car and campervans.
    Haydn's work took him to Longreach regularly in the last few years and I had driven out, when Ella and Nelson were young, with one of our Thai AFS exchange visitors for a taste of the outback and to attend a wedding in Ilfracombe.
    It was great to revisit Longreach and call into a few tourist destinations such as the Qantas Founders Museum. We were very impressed with the displays and information, especially the 1944 Catalina 'flying boat', which was unveiled last year. I called in the Stockman's Hall of Fame to see "Longford", the metal horse Sue constructed with the late Tom Greer which now sits just inside the entrance.
    We ducked into see the Australian movie, Goldstone at the cinemas and wandered the shops.
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  • Longreach to Barcaldine Qld

    12 sierpnia 2016, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    As many of you would know, thanks to the power of Facebook, Haydn was treated to an hour in Paul Douglas' hydralight. He had an exhilarating time just on sunset, and got to meet...and share an intimate space with .. a man who typifies outback hospitality. We also called into see Janelle Searle, one of Haydn's nak clients, who owns Studio Exclusive. Another local, (green grocer's daughter she told me) Janelle greeted us with a big hug and genuine caring....a real kind soul.
    Back on the road again to head home...Haydn is ready to get back now and we are both looking forward to seeing the family (including Jazabel) and our friends. We could have taken the dirt road route however have decided to stay on the bitumen and go via Barcaldine and head towards Aramac before coming out at Torrens Creek.
    Barcaldine has a terrific bakery and cafe plus the Tree of Knowledge and a rich Labor Party history.
    The countryside looks green and familiar.
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  • Townsville Qld

    14 sierpnia 2016, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    8 weeks and 14000 kilometres..home sweet home! 💞 it was great to arrive home to the family, the house and the garden. Thank you everyone who followed us on our journey. We have a couple of future roadtrips planned and will keep everyone in the loop. Until then, take care and stay in touch.
    I am leaving you with photos of several of our home away from home setups. 💋
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    Koniec wyprawy
    14 sierpnia 2016