BMW GS 1250 to Malta

March - April 2022
I thought it is time for another adventure.
Earlier plans were stopped by Covid.
I'm going to ride my new BMW to Malta in time for Easter.
It's a very early start so I had to try to choose a start date that coincided with good weather.
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  • 11footprints
  • 4countries
  • 11days
  • 78photos
  • 0videos
  • 1.8kmiles
  • Day 1

    Day one

    March 27, 2022 in England ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    When I woke up this morning at 6am and saw fog I wasn't pleased.
    It was great that not only Mandy but also Robert and Andrew got out of bed to wave me off.
    It remained foggy all the way to the euro tunnel train then for at least the first hour on the other side. The temperature was 7c. I was prepared for cold so I stayed warm with my heated gloves. I have a heated vest but I didn't need to switch it on.
    There were only two motorcycles in the train. I didn't know the other rider but he lives in Bury st Edmunds which is close to home.
    I was in time to catch an earlier train but there where only two people checking paperwork for everyone so I missed it and got on the one I had booked to be on.
    I had pre-booked a hotel in Saint Dizier which is where I am now.
    If I had realised I would be on the road so long I might have booked somewhere closer. Two things slowed me down. One is that the French have now limited the speed on all A roads to 80kph or 45mph. The second is that I had decided that as I'm not in a hurry I would stay off toll roads. This lasted two really boring hours on beautiful roads at what felt like walking speed. I reset the sat nav to go on toll roads when I realised I still had 3.5 hours riding. Using the toll reduced it by 50 minutes and was much more enjoyable.
    I arrived at the hotel at 5.45pm after clocking just over 400 miles.
    It would have been much easier if I stayed on tolls from the start.
    I spent about 7 euros in tolls which is nothing really.
    Tomorrow I'm going to start much later and try to get to Gap via Route Napoleon. Today's photos are not scenic let's hope tomorrow's are better.
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  • Day 2

    Day two

    March 28, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Yesterday the temperature got to 22c
    Today I dressed for warmer weather and set off at 10am with Gap programmed into the sat nav. This way I would get a relatively boring ride and make distance then join route Napoleon at Grenoble. Today was 350 miles. I'm not going to do that again, is to tiring and I arrive at the destination not wanting to walk far. Having said that I wear a band which tells me how far I've walked and riding the BMW adds steps on it so I did 14000 steps today without getting off the bike.
    I passed through the champagne district with its beautiful factories all trying to out do eachother.
    I was glad to get off the toll road and enjoy real twisty roads for a couple of hours. Even though it was 23c The bike was great and I followed the locals on sports bikes through the real twisty mountainous bits.
    The map might be better from today as I've connected maps to find penguins.
    I've had the BMW GS 1250 six months and had gone further in the last two days than the previous six months.
    I'm going to pick somewhere about two hundred miles away tomorrow for a rest.
    I took a photo at one of the service stations where I met a man who is also half Maltese. We had a good chat.
    I stopped to take a photo in the Alps then another here in Gap.
    My hotel is in the centre of Gap opposite the railway station. My bike is safe in an underground car park. All is good 😊
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  • Day 3

    Day Three

    March 29, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    I prefer a late start as it always takes ages to have breakfast, pack the bike, and put on all the clothes. The sat nav was programmed last night so I knew what was to come. I had three options for today. I didn't want boring toll roads so that was out. There was an easy way to get to the town near Asti where I am now. (It's a sleepy place called Calamandrana.) Handy for tomorrow's leg or the third option was a longer harder ride over the top. I chose the hard one.
    What a great days riding I had after a night worrying about having the correct forms for going into Italy. It's easy if you are flying into Italy but if you are coming from France and starting in UK then ending in Malta, it takes a while to fill it in. Having said that there was no border control at all. Nothing. I just rode into Italy without stopping.
    What a ride, several hours of twisty roads with not a lot of traffic. The views were spectacular. I took a few photos and could have stopped a lot more but I was enjoying the ride so much I didn't want to keep stopping.
    I was a little worried when I saw lots of signs saying cars are not allowed unless you carry chains for the snow until April 15.
    The temperature dropped to 6c as I climbed to 6200 feet then it quickly rose again si came down, so I was fine. The roads had no snow but as you see in the photo it was fun to stop and watch people skiing below me. I don't know what the pass is called from Gap, but what a perfect road surface it was. I loved every minute of it.
    I checked in the Alegra hotel at 4pm which is nice so I'm going to try for a similar arrival time tomorrow.
    After today's fun I want to make a bit distance so I've booked a hotel which sounds very posh called The Alisei palace hotel. It's four star and is on the beach front at Rimini. Not bad for 56 euros including breakfast.
    Tomorrow's ride will be a lot of tolls because to get to Rimini from here is four hours using tolls or 7.5 hours not using them.
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  • Day 4

    Day four to Rimini

    March 30, 2022 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    I woke up this morning and looked out of the window. It was raining. Ugh! I had checked the forecast yesterday and it said it would rain possibly thunder in Rimini but I was expecting to at least start off dry.
    I prepared for a lot of rain which means that apart from my normal riding clothes which are very waterproof I get two zip lock plastic bags. One will have my two passports and it goes in an inside pocket of my jacket and the other will have my mobile phone. I learned the hard way last trip and put my phone in a pocket that had filled with water. This trip I'm also carrying a thin waterproof jacket to put on top of my normal jacket. It should stop the pockets filling if it rains really hard.
    I was on the motorway quite quickly and set the cruise control at 125kpm and stayed in the toll roads all the way to Rimini. I must have passed 2000 trucks in the four hours it took. There was a lot of traffic until after Bologna. Not very scenic after yesterday's ride but it was nice to see the fields of pink or white blossom in all the vineyards.
    I didn't rain for long at the start so the first two hours where dry. In the last two hours it rained but not nearly as hard as I was expecting so I was fine. The temperature stayed around 12c.
    The bike is now nice and cosy in an underground car park.
    Rimini has hundreds of hotels, it must be really busy in the summer. After a walk along beach I took a 45 minute walk into the old town. It was raining all the time so I didn't explore as much as I would have liked. To be honest I was underwhelmed. I went to the park which is pretty. There is so much traffic here it is difficult to get away from it.
    Tonight I'm going for an authentic Italian pizza and tomorrow I have another four hour ride straight south sticking to the Adriatic coast where I've booked another out of season four star hotel.
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  • Day 5

    Day five staying in Rimini

    March 31, 2022 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    I went for a pizza last night and it was amazing. I had a glass of wine and a beer then it all went horribly wrong. I've never been much of a drinker so the wine and the beer was more than enough, however after the meal they brought another drink which I hadn't asked for and as I was still thirsty I drank it. It came in an unlabeled bottle and looked like lemon. The small glass that came with it should have been a clue. It tasted very strong lemon and sugar and it was syrupy with alcohol. I asked what it is and they said A drink from the south. I now know it was Limoncello which has a lot of vodka. I drank it all then set off to the hotel. By the time I got there I felt really drunk then through the night I was very sick. So today I'm staying in Rimini.
    Another good reason to have a day off is that it is raining quite hard and will continue all day. Tomorrow's forecast is much better. It will be six degrees warmer and little chance of rain.
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  • Day 6

    Day six Adriatic coast

    April 1, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After 11 hours sleep and nothing to eat yesterday I enjoyed fresh fruit followed by scrambled eggs followed by bread and with two coffees.
    I set off at around 9am and after an hour stopped for fuel. I bought a sandwich which was so dry it should have been thrown to the seagulls days ago.
    The road was as I expected, a lot quieter than previous days and the weather was fine. A couple of hours into the ride I caught up with another touring motorcyclist. We pulled in at the next service station where he told me he's German and on his way to Sicily. He had so much stuff on his bike I asked if he's moving house, he said he's camping. My camping days are over I'm happy to say. He also said with a thumbs up and a smile that his wife does not go on the motorcycle with him. No comment.
    Now I'm at another four star out of season resort hotel. I think there are only three guests tonight.
    Tomorrow I'm going for a long day to get within easy distance of Sicily. When I looked at Google maps it gave three options to get there. When I put the address in the bikes Garmin sat nav it gave only two, both of which were longer and looked less interesting so I'm going to use the rubber phone mount I've put in the bike so just such occasions and use Google maps to get me to tomorrows hotel.
    It's called Lions head and it is in Cartolano looking out over the Tyrrhenian sea.
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  • Day 7

    Day seven. Four seasons in one day

    April 2, 2022 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Today's story is all about the ride. You'll understand why when you read it. Hardly any photos for the same reason.

    When I first set out on this adventure I chose to leave home when I did because the weather looked good for the next few days in UK France and Italy. I knew that as the days progressed it would be less predictable and setting off in March is risky at the best of times. I've been lucky because I hear at home it was minus 4 last night and the areas in the Alps I rode through in plus 20c are now once again covered in snow.

    I watched the weather forecast this morning which came on the dining room TV while I ate breakfast.
    The symbols suggested wind plus thunder and lightning but then it all changed to sunshine everywhere so I decided to believe that as I couldn't understand the pretty lady explaining it.
    Looking out the window it was beautiful, a bit breezy with not a cloud in the sky, so I dressed for warm weather with just a thin sweatshirt. This turned out to be a big mistake.
    Today I'm using my phone and Google maps as my guide so the phone is in the cradle in the centre of the handlebars.
    Not long after I set off the cross wind started to increase in strength. It got stronger and stronger until it was so windy even turning my head was difficult. I'd slowed down but it didn't seem to make any difference. After an hour I stopped for a coffee and had to park the bike in a way it wouldn't get blown over.
    Eventually either the wind changed direction or I did as it became a lot easier. Throughout this super strong wind the bike never faltered it just stayed at whatever I set the cruise control and the only time the wind made it drift a little was when I came out from overtaking big trucks. I on the other hand was being buffeted as if I was being hit. I couldn't keep my head still.
    It eventually stopped blowing so hard and for the next couple of hours it was lovely but as I turned inland I could see black clouds over the hills which span the foot of Italy.
    They got darker and darker and the temperature began to drop quickly as I approached so I stopped and swapped to my thicker waterproof gloves and put my thin over jacket on top of the motorcycle jacket. What I should have done was also put on something else under the jacket.
    I set off and sure enough soon it started raining so I pulled into a service station and stopped again. After a coffee it was still raining so I had to put my mobile phone in a plastic bag and put it in the mount so I could still see it. As the sky got darker it was easier to see as I set the brightness to max.
    Then the heavy rain came, I was ok nothing was getting through so I carried on. The temperature dropped from 16 in the morning to 7 and the rain turned into hail.
    In my bag a have a heated vest and how I wished I'd had it on. It was still a bit windy and I was getting cold. First I turned on the heated grips then I turned on the heated seat in the vain hope that some of the heat might enter the rest of my via my backside and to be honest I think it did.
    As I came out the other side of Italy the rain stopped and the wind died so the last half hour was normal but I was still cold.
    The hotel is lovely and warm, the bike is once again in a cosy underground carpark and I'm in a very nice room in the roof. The bad weather I rode through is now here. The wind is howling and there is a huge industrial bin moving up the street unaided. My room looks over the sea which is very rough, the waves must be more than three meters high as the crash down the beach. Before it got quite as bad as it is now I went for a quick walk and took a couple of photos.
    Tomorrow is another day and I will wait and see what it brings before making plans.
    If it is horrible I'll just stay here as I haven't booked anything. I could possible make it to Malta but I don't want another 6 hour ride especially if it is like today's and Sicily is such a lovely place. The forecast is for rain. We shall see.
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  • Day 8

    Day eight. Bad weather stops play.

    April 3, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Listening to the howling wind and lashing rain last night made me consider a day off today. The forecast said it would clear early afternoon and it has but the ferries to Sicily may not be running as the sea is very rough so I'm staying put. I'm not in a hurry. Tomorrow will be much better weather.
    I went for a walk to the only place of interest near here, it's an old tower called Torre. To get to it you walk along the road then down a footpath through a pokey tunnel under the railway then alongside the autostrada, climbing all the way. I'm not selling this very well am I.
    The view is nice once you get there.
    Tomorrow should be more interesting.
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  • Day 9

    Day nine. Modica Sicily

    April 4, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Last night at the hotel in southern Italy I came downstairs for dinner. There was one other person who looked like he had just arrived and he was wearing a motorcycle jacket so I asked him if he is a guest. He was.
    We got talking and he told me the most amazing story.
    He has ridden his bike from Lithuania starting last Tuesday. The first part of his journey was with the bike in the back of his van and he drove into Ukraine where he has several friends. He picked up a friend and they drove the van to Poland where they unloaded the bike and Gintaras continued south towards Italy. The van was a gift to his friend who then filled it with provisions for his family and friends and drove it back to Kiev.
    I asked Gintaras how far he had traveled yesterday which was the day I took off because of bad weather. He said 1200klm which is incredible. He came a similar way to me and told me there is now snow on the hills I came over the day before.

    Now it is Monday evening and I rode with Gintaras who is also heading for Malta which he loves. He wanted to get there as soon as possible as his girlfriend has already arrived from Lithuania using Ryanair. I was content to visit Modeca and get the ferry on Wednesday morning. We parted at Pozzallo on the coast where they made space for him on the ferry.
    I'm now in Modica which is half an hour north of Pozzallo and what a beautiful place it is. I didn't realise when I booked but I'm in a boutique hotel which is quiet amazing. The position is right next to the cathedral. What a beautiful building. Tomorrow I will explore and write more about Modica.
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  • Day 10

    Day ten. Sightseeing Modica

    April 5, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I'm not religious but I love churches so today I went for another look inside San Giorgio
    Click on this link to see a 360 degree photo
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/fog93dRX7YKRqdoz7

    then went to the other large church San Pietro
    Click on this link to see a 360 degree photo
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/npLaKqDQQDRxcemY8

    I'll post normal photos also.

    Then I took a walk to see the museum of Salvatore Quasimodo who I'm sure you'll remember won the Nobel prize for literature in 1959. It's a tiny place so I wasn't there long.

    Next I walked up and up and up to a viewing area called Belvedere. You will see the amazing view.
    Then I walked about a mile to visit interesting caves but Google was correct in telling me they would be closed so I came back to the hotel and as I came in I recognised an old man sitting as the artist whose work is being exhibited at the hotel. There are banners outside advertising his work. So I got talking via his agent who interpreted. He gave and signed a book to give to Mandy and I got a few photos of him.

    No holiday can be complete without a visit to the chocolate museum. So mine is not complete as it was also closed.

    Tonight I'm going for my last meal in Italy so it has to be pizza.

    Tomorrow I'm booked on the ferry to Malta so I need to get up early and leave here by 7.30. it's an hour and three quarters in a very fast catamaran.

    I'll summarise the trip when I get to Malta.
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