South East Asia

April - August 2023
A 133-day adventure by Sharpisons travels & Mr Read more
  • 16footprints
  • 6countries
  • 133days
  • 253photos
  • 6videos
  • 32.9kkilometers
  • 22.9kkilometers
  • 433kilometers
  • Day 1

    Ho Chi Minh

    April 21, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    We have arrived in Ho Chi Minh, after possibly the longest journey EVER!!! (Kids only survived because of their devices) Plane was late, then was diverted for a medical emergency to Istanbul, then finally took off again 4 hours later, changed at Singapore after 17hours on the plane. Quick hop to Vietnam, where we discovered they had forgot to put our luggage on our flight!!! Did mean we could all buy a new outfit, although after 25 hours travelling, it maybe wasn’t the first thing we wanted to do!! Anyways after all that we have settled down in a very strange, western style city within the city! Landmark Central Park crazy! Can’t get the kids much further than the air-conned shopping centre (or the pool)! Did manage to get up the 17th tallest building in the world, which is on our doorstep and then randomly go ice skating! The kids a little bit put out by the heat! “Sticky”!!! 😄
    We will post when we can and try not to bore!!! If any of you follow us 🤞
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  • Day 5

    Hoi An

    April 25, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We are moving up the coast of Vietnam, first stop is the ancient trading town of Hoi An.
    After getting UNESCO status, it has re-branded itself, trading now solely on tourists. Losing perhaps the charm of what is a very beautiful town.
    However, it’s been a good lesson to teach Otto not to yell YES to every person that tries to sell us some tat. He has been grabbing fidget spinners and flashing toys in every stall dropping and breaking stuff! (as each in sells exactly the same stuff). This has been a challenge!!! Although tonight he did say no thank-you to someone. So that’s progress!!!
    We spent a day on the beach which was a lovely treat to be able to enter the sea without a wetsuit on! Also the kids made a lantern which was great. We are moving on tomorrow so just a quick post before we forget where we’ve been 😄

    New section………..
    Beer of choice Huda
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  • Day 8

    Hue and Easy Riding

    April 28, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    We got the train up to Hue, which was incredibly slow, lucky though as it meant we could look at the stunning scenery. Hue was much quieter than Hoi An, a very interesting city resonating the glories of imperial Vietnam, even though a lot was destroyed in the American War, but has has undergone a massive rebuild over the last 20 years.
    We stayed on the Perfume River, and did a picturesque boat trip down to the city.
    Here touts are less of a bother and it felt a little bit more like the real Vietnam, not just a tourist theme park, like in Hoi An.
    However, it turned out we were still quite a big deal, as we stumbled upon a local festival, Otto and Freda were jumped upon to pose for pics, check out the video of Otto. The poor little mite is getting quite a bit of attention, a lot of it is because people don’t know what he is!! Women have been approaching him and then grabbing hold of his nether region to check!!!
    So anyway we got to thinking that we would like to get off the beaten track a bit, away from the pappz!! The only way to do that here is by motorbike!!!! Really with kids hear you cry? I’m afraid so, we booked a 3 day tour with the Easy Riders and three amazing guys rode us all over central Vietnam. We got to hang out in areas not many tourist visit, sampling local food at local prices!! We learnt a bit about the Vietnamese. The politics, wars, governments etc. We rode from town to beach, beach to mountains. Navigating the DMZ area, learning about the resilience of the people, visiting the incredible Vinh Moc tunnels! Simply amazing. Otto took a massive shine to his and my driver Khanh, even called him the other Daddy! We were very sad when he left and we had to parent again! Until next time 😘
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  • Day 12

    Phong Nha

    May 2, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    After being dropped off by the Easy Riders, we hung out in Phong Nha, advertised as the adventure capital of Asia! A sleepy town on the river, beautiful scenery, all in all we had a very relaxing time. Well, maybe a few hours of relaxing among all the exciting adventures we had to have! The kids are becoming increasingly more difficult to wear out!

    Caves are a big deal here, one of them is one of the largest caves in the world. We managed to visited two of them and they were mind blowing, it was like being on another planet.
    It did heat up a little too much in Phong Nha, pushing 40 degrees for a few days, which proved to be a little sweaty and very sticky. However, the kids are getting more used to the heat now, so following our Easy Riders experience, we hired a couple of scooters and went out to explore. After sitting on the back of a motorcycle for three long days, we are now dab hands at mastering the Vietnamese roads and of course handling a scooter! I did come a little unstuck when Otto grabbed the key out the bike and dropped it on the floor, while in motion on a very busy road! Found it though, but wasn’t that helpful. Also not helpful at all was when I nearly got shunted off the side of the road down a a large drop and into the river, Mitch’s hand slipped when parking his bike and he smashed right into the back of me! Don’t worry the kids had already disembarked!

    So if ever you are visiting Phong Nha, I can recommend the duck stop (check out the pics, don’t worry though we didn’t have to eat one!!), walking or boating a few kilometres in the beautiful cave systems and lots of cooling down in the river. Do not hire a scooter if Mitch is also on one!

    We flew out to Hanoi and left the tranquility of Phong Nah behind to be treasured forever.
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  • Day 16

    Hanoi

    May 6, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 40 °C

    We hopped on a plane up to Hanoi, but the first day we couldn’t be bothered to take the kids out in 40 degrees, so opted for the mall instead. Bit of shoe shopping and a random aquarium! Thankfully the little mini heatwave had passed by the next day so we got to explore the old town and around the lake, always lots of mopeds and still very hot.

    Mitch and I have been before, 15 years ago, it has changed but probably for the better. As expected though great food, great coffee, cheap beer. We do so love Hanoi. Otto however didn’t really seem to get on too well here, we did understand, but couldn’t really fathom his kamikaze nature. When he nearly dragged me across the street in front of an oncoming car, we began to question whether we may need to take him home, UK home not hotel home!!! Sadly it didn’t improve, but as luck would have it we stayed in two very big, amazing apartments, so we got to hang out there a lot and explored only a little at a time, trying not to over-overwhelm the little baba.
    We did, however, get to visit the temple of literature, the Hanoi Hilton, a.k.a. a prison (surprising favourite of Ottos), take a food tour, ate some amazing bun cha! Drank a few beers on Beer street, sweets on sweets street and admired ladder street! In our apartment we had a disco on our 7th floor glass corridor and drank a lot of beer to help ourselves forget that Otto had become a complete nightmare. Freda on the other hand has been amazing, and Hanoi was a pleasure xx
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  • Day 22

    Taipei

    May 12, 2023 in Taiwan ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We have arrived in Taiwan. We’ve spent our first four nights in Taipei and a couple of days travelling down the county. It’s a great mixture of Japanese culture, a little Chinese but unique in its own right.

    In Taipei we had the pleasure of sharing a very small room, hostel style, with a double bed and bunk beds and not much room for anything else. Accommodation is much more expensive and much of it is pretty dated, we’ve not quite got the hang our sweet spot yet! As you will see!!

    Taipei was great, we headed straight up Taipei 101. It used to be the tallest building in the world, until everyone else built some bigger ones!! The kids got the best candy floss I’ve ever seen made from a machine.(check out the pic) We went to the zoo, which was really good and had a bonus gondola ride to get there. We ate at what is considered to be the best place for dumplings in the world, drank a beer or two in the LGBTQ 🏳️‍🌈 area and I also brought a camera which is pretty cool. I really enjoyed Taipei and we will most likely head back there for a few more days before we fly out of Taiwan.

    We got our first High Speed Rail (HSR) down to a town called Taichung. We were excited about getting a larger room as we were craving space, but soon released it was in a massive hotel, so there was nowhere to hang when the kids had gone to sleep. So, choices were lights out early or as we did one night set up the bog bar, where we enjoyed a few beers sat in/on the toilet! Oh the exciting life of travelling with fun sponges! (Sorry I meant the kids)!
    Nice city though, went to the natural history museum, also to a illusion museum (see if you can spot the pics!) and ate at a very famous ice cream place!
    We’ve attempted a few night markets, food here can be a little eccentric, lots of nasty animal bits up for offer. The challenge has been to find a restaurant which meets all our children’s needs , Otto only wants meat and Freda will only eat veggie. NIGHTMARE!!!
    The kids have got obsessed though, not with the food, but the grabber and toy vending machines which seem to pop up in every other shop! They can’t quite understand why they never win on the grabbers!!! Mitch is getting very annoyed wasting all our money! Kids 🤣

    We moved on to a smaller town today, called Lukang, touted as the Kyoto of Taiwan! I have to say that is a little far fetched! Anyway we had fun managed to kill some time, took a tour down a narrow alley named touch breast street, saw a few cool temples and stumbled upon a very loud and an extremely amusing festival. Highlights were a man hitting his back with many weapons including a ball covered in pins so blood streamed out, crazy guys with branches on the end of large poles and girls pole dancing while traditional costume clad folk paraded down the road to a temple!! Bonkers!

    As the only westerners at the party we started to attract too much attention (mainly Otto being continuously filmed by a guy) so had to swiftly depart back to our hotel that Mitch had managed to book for us.
    Turned out to be a sex (love) hotel!!! Upside kids really loved the massive jacuzzi bath! Downsides I have to explain to Freda what the sex toy vending machine in our bedroom is. Our bed side table is nicely set up with a condom, lighter, ashtray and some tissues!!!
    Needless to say we are out of here tomorrow and heading to the hills!
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  • Day 41

    Taiwan

    May 31, 2023 in Taiwan ⋅ 🌧 29 °C

    After escaping the sex hotel we had a long journey up to the mountains, Alishan, I read, is a popular place for people who like mountains but can’t be arsed to trek up them, sounded just right! It was a really nice break from the sweaty cities as the temperature dropped to 16 degrees! Dodging the rain, (apparently it rains there more than it does in Devon!) we sat on the back of a fast bouncy bus, on a very windy, steep mountain road, into the National Park. On arrival (after recovering from nearly being sick), we did the rounds. Consisting of riding an old logging train track, a few lovely walks with 1000 yr old Red Cyprus cedars dotted around (the ones that the Japanese hadn’t logged back in the day) and enjoying an atmospheric cloud forest. It truly was a stunning place, we watched the sunset/sunrise over the mountains, and topped it all off with some traditional, mountain hot pots!

    Next stop, a town called Sun Moon Lake, via another extremely windy bus ride down through the mountains! We arrived at the large man-made reservoir (that as its name sake suggests is the shape of a sun and moon, questionable) 🤨!! We hired bikes, cycled around, went on a few boats and finally a cable car with a glass bottom, which Otto was very unsure about!!.

    Heading back to the west coast, we stopped for a few nights in a city called Kaohsiung. Dubbed, in our guide book, as the Birmingham of Taiwan, I can’t comment on that as I’ve never been to Birmingham! Anyway, it must be a lovely city because we really liked Kaohsiung. Once an industrial port horror with little to offer, (according to the Brannt guide that we stole from a hostel), it has now rebranded itself with really interesting art spaces and some great museums. So, we first ticked off the must see tourist stuff, big glass ceiling in a train station, a very kitch temple on a lake where you have to go through a massive mouth of a Dragon and out through that of a Tiger (for good luck……Otto loved it). Then we spent the rest of our time exploring. I was experiencing a craving for western food so (no judgement), we ended up in a British bar and felt very at home in an Asia style take off of a pub that resembled Cheers, somewhere in the 1990s! So that satisfied that!

    After Kaohsiung we tripped down to the southern point of the country, Kenting, a Taiwanese beach and surf resort. Unfortunately, we turned up to our hotel and there was obscenely loud pneumatic drilling in the attached building, it was insanely noisy, not the most relaxing few days by the sea. I had a mixture of feelings here, it was a bit like 90s Europe with a Chinese flavour. Banana boats, jet skis, grim hotel complexes and the usual ugly architecture that blights Taiwan. Not selling it in the best light, but we did have a good time. And yes, (Freda insisted), we got on a banana boat!! A first for all of us…..

    We then spent a day on the train going up to Hualien, the gateway to Taroko Gorge, Taiwan’s number one tourist attraction! And it didn’t disappoint, a truly spectacular natural wonder. A highlight amongst many.

    We were on our last legs in Taiwan, and we thought maybe the kid’s deserved a posh hotel with a pool, also an amazing sea and mountain view. So we had a one day blow out and enjoyed the finer things in life. The beach was a non swimming beach, this we found out mainly when we took a short stroll along it. While I was in awe taking pics, Otto finding shells in the sand, we realised the almighty forces of nature and had to run for dear life away from an extreme wave. We had no idea! Happened again a few minutes later!!! I’m not sure Otto will step foot on a beach again! Later that evening, Mitch found out there was currently a super typhoon off the coast (see Mitch for details as he spent most of the night looking it up). However, it was one of the strongest typhoons on record in the mouth of May and was only sitting a hundred miles or so off the coast, outside of Taiwan!!

    With the wind picking up we felt we needed to get out of there before it was too late, so we jumped on the train for our last two nights in Taipei. We a had a few more things to tick off the list, bubble tea, one more katsu curry, one last soup dumplings, Photo Booth, poo themed restaurant and national palace museum.
    All done, so we are off to Sabah!!

    If you’ve made it this far, well done!! We really enjoyed Taiwan, main complaint is that there is a law that you have to wear swim hats in pools!!! Which sums up the culture of extreme rule abiding people. God forbid if you sit on the wrong seat on a train! The system starts malfunctioning. But that aside, maybe it’s us who are at fault? Lovely place lovely people.

    When the kids are grown up I’m coming back, then I’ll get a motor bike and ride around the Taiwanese mountains.
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  • Day 49

    Sabah Kota Kinabalu

    June 8, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    We have been lazily lounging around KK (as the locals call it) for a week now, rather unexpectedly! After putting the kids to bed on the first night, they were both in tears from pure exhaustion.

    We had planned to do a few nights at an apartment, which was basically on the runway, but had a pool for the kids! However, after a few days we got a bit sick of feeling like we were living at the airport, we hadn’t booked any onwards travel and the kids were still hanging so we went to a new apartment in the town, and ended up staying for a further 5 nights. Having more space was lovely after sharing a hotel room together for 3 weeks.
    Funnily, KK hasn’t got all that much going for it, little culture, average food and no green spaces, lots of building work and a lot of rubbish. But, because of that it didn’t feel like we had to do too much here, which worked.

    First few days we hung out with the locals at the city beach, near the airport, the sea was warmer than the outside temperature so wasn’t very refreshing. Everyone flocks down to the beach at the weekend to watch the sunset, there was a lovely atmosphere, with tons of family’s all hanging out.

    The main draw in KK is a few islands just off the coast, Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine park. For the next few days, we hopped on a boat, and did some snorkelling and beach bumming. The reefs are protected, but with the sheer amount of visitors that flock there, boats, pollution etc, the reef is pretty damaged. (I know we are part of the problem). However, we did see some lovely fish and some corals. Freda was amazing at snorkelling and Otto managed to do a little bit, both of them got to see clown fish, parrot fish and some great coral, which was very special.

    The kids spotted a water park out there, so we decided to stay on another day to do that. It was a lot of fun, we were the only people there, it can have up to 150 odd people on the pontoon on a busy day, so we were pretty lucky. They had an activity called sea walking, like old school divers, where you put on a 37kg helmet which they pump oxygen into! I’ve done a bit of diving back in the day, which I loved, but this was quite weird. Mitch hated it, Freda loved it, she was so brave, as we stepped down in our flip flops to around 6 meters under the water with our funny helmets on.

    As we’d been too busy bumming around we missed booking a flight and had to stay another day. We had an educational day and took the kids to visit a mosque. They were most unimpressed about having to wear muslim clothes. I love a bit of dressing up, it’s was a bit sweaty though!

    We did manage to get night out in the town and unfortunately found a bar that did cocktails 2-4-1, turned out to be bad timing, as the next day was the water park day, and I felt rough! Sea walking and hangover, not the best combo!

    Anyway, we finally got our act together and booked a flight across the country so we can go and check out Sabah’s main attractions, the Orang-utan’s and other cool animals. Unfortunately they have very little habitat left since it’s very rapidly being replaced with palm oil plantations, but we’ll see what we find!
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  • Day 55

    Sabah Borneo wildlife week

    June 14, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    After leaving KK we had a jam-packed schedule ahead of us. It was nice to get back on the road, everyone was refreshed and ready for an adventure.

    We went to Sepilok, and stayed near a few conservation sanctuaries, for Orangutans, Sun bears and Proboscis Monkeys. Also there was a lovely area of jungle with a canopy walkway, where we did a night walk.

    Our first hotel was very cool, we stayed in a outdoor wooden stilt, hut style room and had all the nature joining you. It was lovely, although one night everyone did end up standing on their chairs as a huntsman spider roamed around! We met a lovely family there and Freda instantly hit it off with their daughter.

    Our trip to the Orangutang centre was unforgettable! The centre rescues and rehabilitates orphaned and injured Orangutangs. We had the privilege to watch up close these amazing primates both in the nursery, where the juveniles learn how to fend for themselves (slowly making their way out in to the wider forests) and the jungle where we saw the large adults, who although fed, are distanced from humans, with the hope of them becoming self sufficient in the wild. Amazing to see. The sun bears were also a real treat….here once they are ready the the centre releases them back into the wild, so interaction with humans is kept to a minimum.

    After seeing semi-wild and rehabilitating animals, the reality that so many species are no longer able to live alongside us in this inhospitable world we have created, was extremely apparent. With the hope
    of seeking out some (fully roaming wild) wildlife we made a trip out to the Kinabantang river. After 2 hours of constant palm plantation, we arrived at a small protected area for wildlife.
    We decided to go very basic for our stay here, bit of a mistake!! Say no more. We checked-out in the morning after a 6 am boat ride down the river and stalked our new found friends from Sepilok to where they were staying. We did another boat trip in the afternoon seeking out the wildlife that has become so scarce. We saw lots of monkeys and some cool birds, and just as the sun was setting at the very end of the trip we finally saw a wild Orangutang, (really the reason why tourist’s flock to Borneo) it was right up in the trees making its nest for the night. It felt very special to see it.

    Next on the itinerary was a trip to turtle island, another conservation area for nesting turtles. An hours boat ride off the mainland. Arriving at a beautiful island surrounded by turquoise waters, coral reefs and sandy beaches, we spent the day snorkelling and basking in the sun waiting for the main event! That evening we watched a turtle lay her eggs and gawped in awe at hatchlings being released into the sea. It was a very special day and we all had the best time. We did have to avert our eyes for the (very discrete) armed police that patrol and guard the island in case of Filipino terrorists!!

    This area of Borneo has been a mixed bag, it’s easy to be in love with the tourist areas we visited, but the days of Borneo being a magical jungle habitat for the most amazing wildlife is a fantasy. It’s impossible to overlook the devastation that has been caused here by deforestation and the now abundant palm plantations that feed the global need for cheap, brown food!.
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  • Day 70

    Malaysia Mainland

    June 29, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    We flew into Kuala Lumpur and checked into a swanky hotel (for us) which was quite a treat. Although, even with such luxury we all agreed we missed Turtle Island! The hotel’s infinity rooftop swimming pool had the most amazing view of the whole of the KL city skyline, attracting a heaving mass of Instagrammers!! Top tip, best way to enjoy a pool in Asia, swim in the middle of the day, no-one seems prepared to sacrifice themselves to the blistering heat! Apart from us, don’t worry the kids have rash vests!

    On our first day we took the kids to the Petronas towers. I visited Malaysia (and the Twin Towers) over 20 years ago, yikes, makes me feel old.….the skyline has completely changed. They are also currently finishing off the 2nd tallest building in the world, we were gutted we couldn’t ascend!! However we carried on our tradition of going up every tall building we could and went up both the Petronas Towers and the KL Tower!

    Underneath the Petronas Towers there is a very large Western-style shopping centre featuring the Petronas science museum. Just in case anyone is unsure Petronas is an oil Company and seems to own a large portion of KL. Rather ironically we went on a tour in the museum about how to save the planet and use renewable energy, at the same time as taking a trip around a mock up Malaysian oil rig, but it was very informative and the kids loved it. Otto has come away very concerned to learn there is too much rubbish on the planet and he wants to know what we are going to do about it. Since then if he’s in a shop and they ask if we want a plastic bag he gets very cross with the shop assistant.
    That evening we went out to Chinatown, here we started a game called spot the rat, this fun game has continued throughout our trip in Malaysia. Otto made us walk down a very dark alley (renamed rat alley) just so we could check out the rat activity, there was a lot! Such a pleasure seeing urban wildlife, especially when it is running all over the restaurants kitchens we were planning to eat at.

    Next day we dragged the kids out in the scorching heat, on mummy and daddies walking tour, trying to fit in as much as we could! Once you escape the high-rise areas of KL the old parts of the city are really interesting, and have undergone quite a lot of recent gentrification. The kids did quite a lot of moaning, as usual, but it was hot, so as a treat we took them to watch a fountain Lightshow synced to music outside the Petronas towers. Otto said it was the best thing he’s ever done and wanted to move to this county! Big hit.

    Sadly we left the next day trying our luck with the Malaysian bus system, which has turned out to be a winner!! I’m writing this on our last bus journey to Singapore. The buses are so cheap and its such a nice break, we can shove the kids on their devices for 4 hours and not feel any guilt. Bliss, I’m going to miss the down time and the crazy interior designs.

    Malaysia has been our cultural highlight so far, we made a decision to stick to a few interesting towns, Ipoh, George Town and Malacca and save the beach time for our leg in Indonesia. Rich with history, from Chinese immigration, through to European colonialism, a melting pot of cultures that have made Malaysia so unique. These towns, 2 of which are UNESCO world heritage sites, have managed to keep their old worldly, decaying charm. Preserving and embracing their heritage, rich with beautiful architecture and decorative crafts, but all the while welcoming tourism to keep the money flowing in. Unlike some places where we’ve been, like the theme park of Hoi-An in Vietnam, they feel real and captivating, encouraging creativity to flourish. The street art has been a favourite, we have all loved seeking it out, you never know what gem you’re going to find down a little alley! We explored a handful of the 100s of temples in the towns, all religions, seemingly cohabitating side by side, peacefully. In Melaka we walked past the oldest functioning Mosque with its minaret taking on the form of a Japanese pagoda, built by the Dutch during their occupation. Only a few steps away, we visited the oldest Buddhist temple in Malaysia. Carrying on, we passed by one of the first Hindu temples built in Malaysia. Goes to show how culturally rich a society can become when they welcome immigration and embrace it!

    Finding the right balance of tourism can be tricky as we found on a flying trip up to the Cameron Highlands, a place I visited 20 years ago. This time round I had continued expectations of cooler, beautifully manicured hills, and quaint tea plantations dotted around. No longer the case, as it is now Malaysias number one domestic tourist destination, mainly to escape the coastal heat. Unfortunately this has brought with it the mass destruction of the beauty I remember. According to one cab driver he dosn’t even work weekends when a 10 minute drive takes two hours! Bonkers! Luckily we went mid-week!

    Our charming hotel looked out over a shopping mall where a London bus drove past Big Ben until midnight playing music. But then, who am I to sneer, this is early tourism in a new world for Malaysia. As long as you can get a ‘Devonshire cream tea’ and pick some strawberries, no one cares about the epic views that are now littered with ugly high rise hotels and polytunnels.
    We did do a very lovely walk in a mossy cloud-forest and had a cup of tea in a picturesque plantation! Couldn’t bring myself to have cream tea though, too weird! Did get me thinking though that all these tea farms used to be jungle, what was the difference between this and the endless palm plantations? Tea? The fact the British built some pretty Tudor style buildings, while they colonised the county. Any way, I digress…..

    Malacca, our last destination, turned out to be another great place to play spot the rat and ogle at beautifully crafted Peranakan houses.

    One gripe with Malaysia, there is a lot of open drainage, in fact all pavements have an open drain running along side. Good for rat spotting, but bad for Otto. We have had lots of near misses, some more dangerous than others, then finally he put his foot down one, open sandals and all!! It was truly grim. Also with open drains, unexpected wildlife can pop up, other than the rat, as we found out in a riverside bar the other night! When people started jumping on their chairs. I gathered up the kids, sensing danger, then caught a glance of a very large snake frantically winding its way towards us. No idea what type it was but the locals seemed pretty panicked, i shouted at the kids to run! Mitch lingered to gather up our belongings, we all have different priorities!!!

    As we approach the Border of this brilliant country, I’m going to miss it, the local food has been amazing, the kids have learnt a lot and seen so much, As have we.
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