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Laurie Reynolds
Laurie Reynolds

Laurie Reynolds

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFamily wedding in NCLaurie Reynolds

    Heading home again

    4. november 2018, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Our last wedding event was the brunch — since we had an early evening flight, though, that meant that we had a lot of time to enjoy the grandkids some more. First stop was Pullen Park in Raleigh. One of those great old parks with a chug chug train around the park, an old time carousel, and a few very tame kids rides. Lots of kids, lots of parents and grandparents taking pictures.

    Our last family stop was Beasley’s, a Raleigh restaurant that has a bit of buzz these days since it was written up in some food magazine. I don’t find these things, I just let Katy do the choosing and follow along. Who knew that chicken and waffles could really be something that tasted good?! I Mac n cheese, biscuits and honey, all those comfort foods that leave you wondering why you just couldn’t resist and had to keep on eating.

    Now back at the airport — we have two flights and about four hours of travel ahead of us while the Berkelely crew has a long 6 hour flight. It is always hard to say goodbye to grandkids, but it was a great family weekend. Only regret was that David and Shannon couldn’t make it with their three!    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFamily wedding in NCLaurie Reynolds

    Wedding day, before the wedding

    3. november 2018, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    After rain and clouds for two days, Saturday was gorgeous — sunny and cool, perfect for a wedding. Since the ceremony wasn’t till 3 pm, we had plenty of time to enjoy. Ben had heard a lot about a bakery/bread store, called Boulted Bread, which I can highly recommend. Hard for me to remember having eaten any better pastries. But we spent most of the morning and early afternoon at the North Carolina museum of Art. A former brownfield turned art museum and outdoor sculpture garden, it is a must-see if you come to Raleigh-Durham.Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFamily wedding in NCLaurie Reynolds

    Here in Raleigh Durham

    3. november 2018, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We have been in Raleigh-Durham, North Carolina for a family wedding. My niece, a Duke graduate, and her fiance, also a Duke graduate, wanted to get married in the Duke Chapel. Reserving the chapel for a wedding ceremony is not an easy thing, but involves tents and sleeping outside for about a month before the release date for the month in which you want to marry. Very complicated, kind of like getting Duke basketball tickets.

    We decided to make a long weekend of it, and got here on Thursday. Dinner at Luna in downtown Durham was a great way to start off. The American Tobacco campus, home to all the big brands of US cigarettes, has been turned into a non-smoking tourist attraction. Fun to walk around.

    Friday was spent with good coffee, nice long hike on a trail through a lovely forest, lunch at Rose’s, best dumplings I have ever had. After the rehearsal dinner, we almost made it to the after-party, but decided to call it quits and leave the event to the young folks.    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFall trip to Utah parksLaurie Reynolds

    Last Day -- In Salt Lake City

    21. oktober 2018, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We got to Salt Lake in late morning and spent a few hours walking around town, to the Temple Visitor’s Center, and to the State Capitol. I was surprised that the capitol building was open on Sunday, and more surprisingly, that there was not one security guard in sight nor was there any security to get in. The other capitol buildings I’ve been in lately have metal detectors and agents going through bags. The building itself is a classic state capitol, but not nearly as ornate and gilded as the Illinois or Colorado buildings. There were several murals of westward expansion to Utah, including Brigham Young dressed in a white dress shirt and tie pointing the way ahead through the wilderness surrounded by others who looked much less spiffy and more realistic.

    Since our Greek dinner last night had been less than spectacular, we were planning to go to a standard known chain or something, but our daughter texted that we had to go to the Red Iguana. So with her recommendation, off we went, for what was an excellent mole meal. Poblano Mole and Mole Verde were the two choices. Turns out we were lucky to waltz right in, since the hostess told us the wait had been more than an hour just a while ago. And when we left, people were again lining up outside, so we must have found the Iguana sweet spot.

    Not much left here in Utah for me except an elliptical workout and dinner. I saw a notice that the two Florida gubernatorial candidates will be debating tonight on CNN. Since I have spent probably more than a hundred hours this year working on amicus briefs on different Florida state law issues, I am geeky enough to want to spend my last night on vacation watching Andrew Gillum debate Ron DeSantis!    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFall trip to Utah parksLaurie Reynolds

    Hunting for petroglyphs

    20. oktober 2018, Forente stater ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    I had messed up the day of our return home, thinking it was Sunday instead of Monday. So we suddenly had one more day to enjoy Utah. I found that right on the way to Salt Lake from Moab, there is a canyon with endless numbers of petroglyphs from the Fremont and pictographs from the Utes. The oldest are from around 1000 A.D. We got a little brochure in the gas station at the junction and headed into Nine Mile Canyon, which is actually about 50 miles long. I was a little creeped out because about five miles before the turnoff, up on a hill on the side of the road was a sign that looked like a painted sheet that said “White men kill.” Because we were below the sign, I couldn’t see if there was a direct object to that lovely sentence, nor could we decide whether it was a statement of fact or an exhortation, but in any event it was creepy.

    The road through the canyon was all dirt till a few years ago when mining companies volunteered to pave it as part of their mining concession. There are about 25 miles of rock faces and if you look closely, you will see tons and tons of drawings. It was really fun, kind of like where’s Waldo — lots of walking up and down hills looking at rock faces, trying to identify animals. Definitely saw some elk, some bison, bighorn sheep, something that looked like a turkey. We met a guy in an orange truck at the first site, who really knew all about these sites, and so we just got in the habit of stopping along the road wherever we saw his truck. He didn’t seem to mind.

    Joe has suggested a Greek restaurant in town, the number 3 rated restaurant in Price, Utah. But a Subway is number five, so I don’t think we should get our hopes up!    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFall trip to Utah parksLaurie Reynolds
    1

    Two more days in Arches

    19. oktober 2018, Forente stater ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    We have had two more days of hiking in Arches, yesterday cloudy but today a brilliant cobalt blue sky again. A couple of times, Joe read in the car while I added a more strenuous loop, and he says Christopher Browning’s “Dismantling Democracy 1933 vs. 2018” in the New York Review is a must-read. So he was not wasting time while sitting in a parking lot, even though once I could have sworn that I saw his eyes closed when I returned to the car.

    The park is crowded, lots of families, lots of retired couples, lots of international visitors. It is good to see how many people are up for taking a three hour walk with some elevation gain just to see a hole that erosion has made in a rock.

    Last night’s dinner has to set the record for the best customer service ever. We went to a very crowded and busy pizzaria with a real wood burning stove no less, and found that the two tables next to us had turned over twice and we still had not gotten our pizza. Joe had a big bowl of toscana soup which took some time, but even so, we were starting to wonder what was going on. The waitress came and apologized, saying that something had happened to our ticket. Then the head cook brought out the pizza and apologized again. We said we were fine, not a problem, we are on vacation. Then the manager came to apologize and we told him the same thing. About ten minutes later, the waitress told us that our pizzas were on the house because of the bad service, but that under Utah law we would have to pay for our glasses of wine. Fine, but really not necessary. Then ten minutes later, the owner of the restaurant came and told us he wanted to treat us to dessert. Never in all my days have I gotten such attention over a late pizza! Forma Antica is the name of the place, and in addition to the service, their pizza was excellent. And tasted good after our morning hike as well!

    Tomorrow, we’re out of Moab and on the way back!    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFall trip to Utah parksLaurie Reynolds

    Day trip to Canyonlands National Park

    17. oktober 2018, Forente stater ⋅ 🌙 4 °C

    We have been lucky with the weather. Today it is raining and snowing in Bryce Canyon! I would have been VERY sad to have that happen, Bryce is just so amazing. Well, we have three more days in Moab and the weather forecast was for showers today, thunderstorms tomorrow, sunny on Friday. So, we decided to spend today in Canyonlands, another national park about an hour away, the thunderstorm day dodging the storms in the car around Arches, and the sunny day hiking in Arches. Sounds like a plan, but you know what happens to those best laid plans. That is something I have learned many times on the Camino, and I think it’s good advice for vacations, too!

    We had cloudy and some partly sunny weather from the time we arrived until about 4:30, when the showers started. At that point, there was one well known arch I really wanted to see, Mesa Arch, about a half mile from the car park. So I went on out while Joe waited in the car.

    We took three short hikes in different parts of the park, between 1.5 and 2.5 miles long. Beautiful canyons everywhere. The last hike, up to a huge crater, shows what happens when a large meteorite lands on earth.

    Maybe Thai food tonight if we can find the place that has been recommended!    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFall trip to Utah parksLaurie Reynolds

    Made it to Arches

    16. oktober 2018, Forente stater ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Today was our first day in Arches. It was about a three hour drive from Capitol Reef, through lots of very punishing territory. We stopped for breakfast at a breakfast diner type place that had John Wayne plastered on every available square inch on the wall.

    Once in Moab, we went straight to the park. The weather was beautiful, we are on a roll (though some rain is forecast for tomorrow). To take advantage, we went straight to the Delicate Arch trailhead. About a 3 mile roundtrip with some elevation up to the iconic arch that adorns Utah’s license plate. Joe got some more kudos from people at the top. No other people within a decade of him, I would wager. We felt lucky to be there, with the snow covered La Sal (?) mountains in the background. For the rest of the afternoon, we drove and stopped at various places with short walks to, you guessed it, more arches. With the bright blue sky in the background, everything was just beautiful.

    Doing laundry and thinking about dinner, but most of all thinking about how lucky we are to do this.

    PS. The sign at Arches said that discharging your firearm is illegal inside the park. Apparently bringing it in locked and loaded isn’t.    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFall trip to Utah parksLaurie Reynolds

    Last Day in Capitol Reef

    15. oktober 2018, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    We finished out our visit to Capitol Reef with a couple of hikes and a saunter. First thing in the morning, Joe and I hiked the Chimney Rock Loop. Good elevation, great views, both of the chimney rock and the canyon it borders. Then once again my cooperative husband stayed down in a parking lot at the Cassidy Arch trailhead, and I went up to a pretty awesome site. A bit of scrambling at the end, nothing technical, but just terrific views. And thanks to the encouragement of a couple from upstate New York, I dared to walk out on the top of the arch itself, and have pictures to prove it.

    For our last park visit, we walked a few miles around a place named Goosenecks, with views of yet another canyon, and its Sunset Point, with probably the most complex and prettiest view of the whole park — all sorts of geology and canyons, pine trees, snow covered mountains in the back, just beautiful.

    Since we had finished our walking by 4:15, I decided we would probably have time to make it to Bicknell, about 15 miles away, to a pharmacy to pick up some medication Joe left at home. It had taken a while to get our pharmacy in touch with the Wayne County Health Center Pharmacy, but luckily it all worked out. The people were great, and when I picked up the medicine, I asked the pharmacist about the center. Is it a public health center? Yes, he said, it serves people county-wide. How is it funded? By the state of Utah, he said. But, he said, it it NOT a government clinic. Oh well.

    Tip of the day. Though the air is so dry it will crack the inside of your nose, here is one bit of advice. Do not leave the hot shower on for a while to add moisture to your room, or the fire alarms will go on. OOPS!!!    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFall trip to Utah parksLaurie Reynolds

    Another day in Capitol Reef

    14. oktober 2018, Forente stater ⋅ 🌙 1 °C

    Our second day in Capitol Reef was another couple exhilarating hikes that gave ample opportunity to contemplate our total irrelevance to the grand scheme of the universe. First hike of the morning was to Hickman’s Bridge, not too far but with a fair amount of elevation. We were lucky to have left the trailhead early, because on the way down we ran into lots of people heading up to that arch.

    Back in the parking lot, Joe kindly agreed to let me go back up and take another spur, to a place called Rim Overlook. More elevation gain, and great views. At the top, I met a couple from northern Minnesota. The guy could not contain himself — looking over the vast expanse, he started in on how the hell could Trump think it is a good idea to open this land up to mining????!!!

    After lunch, more walking, this time through a canyon to a place below a rock called Cathedral Rock. The views are just incredible around every turn.

    There are some petroglyphs from ancient tribes named the Fremont people because they had no name of self-identification, apparently. Some petroglyphs, some remains of deerskin mocasins, waterproof reed baskets, but not much else. The drawings on the walls that we saw are from around 1000 AD, which was roaring Romanesque time in Spain!    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFall trip to Utah parksLaurie Reynolds

    In Capitol Reef National Park

    13. oktober 2018, Forente stater ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Today we left Escalante and headed to Torrey, Utah, enjoying the small group of marathon runners going between Boulder and Escalante in the Escalante marathon. I cannot imagine running up and down those hills, but everyone was smiling! We learned that Boulder Utah actually has two very well regarded restaurants, but we missed them. One of them, Hell’s Backbone Grill, gets written up all the time, we heard.

    The drive further on to Torrey, the closest town to Capitol Reef, went through lots of aspen groves. Some still had beautiful yellow leaves, but most had dropped their leaves. I never thought of considering autumn colors as a factor in a trip to Utah! We had great views of the Henry mountains and learned we were traveling through the last part of the continental US to be mapped and charted.

    We got to Capitol Reef park early and decided to do a hike to Cohab Canyon. Not as long as others we’ve done (3.5 miles), but the elevation was a bit harder for Joe. It took us up to a canyon with crazy rock formations all along. Good hike!

    We are staying in a “resort” near the park, with a much better elliptical than our first place, and a nice view. Heading into town to Café Diablo. And tomorrow’s high is supposed to be about 40, with night temps dropping into the (gasp) 20s! I was planning on 60s weather.    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFall trip to Utah parksLaurie Reynolds

    A day in Bryce Canyon

    12. oktober 2018, Forente stater ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    If you go to Escalante, do not miss a meal a Devil’s Garden. Kind of upscale, southwestern food. Very yummy.

    The weather report for today was cool and sunny, so we decided to go to Bryce Canyon. We had been there years ago with the kids and remembered it as very nice. But still we were wowed by the hoodoos and all the formations. It was just gorgeous. Joe and I walked a 3 mile loop, Queen’s Garden merging with Navajo Loop. Maybe not so long in distance, but enough elevation gain to get the cardio going (total of about 700 feet, all at the end on switchbacks). As we were climbing to the top, we were with a Japanese couple who didn’t speak any English. They were clearly trying to ask us how old Joe was, and didn’t believe me when I put up 8 fingers and a zero with my thumb and second finger. Then they shook his hand, bowed their heads, and made a big fuss, all in Japanese, though, so I couldn’t understand it. After a lunch at Bryce Point, we took the 15 mile drive along the park, stopping at all the lookouts and soaking in the views. All in all, it was a very exhilirating day. Snow on the highest points made it just a little bit more beautiful!Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFall trip to Utah parksLaurie Reynolds

    In Escalante

    11. oktober 2018, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    So, a few weeks ago, I bought tickets to Salt Lake, bought a Utah guide book, and made hotel reservations in three different spots. That was the extent of my planning. Yesterday, we got in our rental car and drove about 5 hours to Escalante, in Grand Staircase National Monument, near Bryce Canyon. From Panguitch to Escalante, the drive was pretty awesome, Red Canyon being my favorite.

    We are staying in an overpriced hotel, but it was the only place in town with an elliptical trainer, and that was one of my non-negotiables. Rain was scheduled for today, so a trip to the Visitors’ Center got us acclimated and kept us dry. From there we just decided to drive and see if we could find a dry spot. First try, down a 14 mile dirt road, Hole in the Rock Road, to Devil’s Garden (lots of unusual rock formations). The plan was aborted at about mile 12 when the car was fishtailing in the mud. Then up to Boulder, where there is a paved road. Burr Trail Road went through a gorgeous canyon and lo and behold we found the Slot Canyon someone had told me about!

    At that point the weather had really improved, so we decided to get back on lovely Highway 12 and drive to the trailhed for Calf Creek Falls. WOW. Three miles out and three back, and Joe was a trooper. The path goes along the creek and up and down along some of the side of the canyon. Not much elevation gain, probably under 300 feet total, but there were a few ascents that got the heart rate going. It was really a beautiful walk and the falls themselves were beautiful. We talked with someone who had been there a while ago, and she said the water was just a trickle. All in all a great day, the majesty of these landscapes really puts you in the mood for confronting life’s big questions!    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino Mozarabe April 2018Laurie Reynolds
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    The end.

    17. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    My Spanish friends wanted to know how many kms I had walked in my 32 days. I had no idea so I did the math and it looks like 948. If I had known that I would have pushed to make it to Zamora to get to a round 1000.

    I’m on the plane in Madrid. Coming home. End of Camino 2018. I’ll give it a few weeks before I start planning camino 2019.    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino Mozarabe April 2018Laurie Reynolds
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    In Madrid

    16. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    It’s hard to believe that only two days ago I was walking into Salamanca. I left the little pension in San Pedro early so I could meet up with @Charrito in Salamanca. It was a short and very straightforward walk except got a few last encounters with cattle. Why do herds that have enormous fields to enjoy always place themselves right on the Camino?!

    But by noon I was in the Plaza Mayor enjoying a cafe con leche with @Charrito, a Camino de Invierno fan who lives in this lovely city. My electric coil had finally stopped working, so I had to walk 24 km before any coffee.

    Then around 2pm I went to the fancy hotel where another camino amiga had snagged very cheap rates for three of us. Me, walking into Salamanca, Jill bussing in from Grimaldo, and Clare bussing up from Cañaveral. It was a great meet up and we gabbed and gabbed till way past pilgrim bedtime. The hotel lobby lights were turned off and finally we headed to bed after midnight. And would you believe that Clare had decided she was not going to join The Electric Coil Club after all and asked me if I wanted hers? How is that for synchronicity?!

    Yesterday we had a few morning hours for coffee in the Plaza Mayor, and a quick walk through the old part to see the cathedral, hunt for the frog on the skull’s head, etc.

    At 10:50 Clare and I were on the fast train. By 12:30 we were in Madrid where we said goodbye, Clare heading to a hotel and me to Soto del Real to spend some time with my closest Spanish friends and their kids. And what better way to spend the afternoon than to take a 15 km walk up through the Guadarrama foothills that start outside their front door?

    Today some more walks are planned and then tomorrow the flight home. I know that some year will be my last Camino but I surely hope there are more in my future!    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino Mozarabe April 2018Laurie Reynolds

    One day out of Salamanca

    13. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Yesterday the communal dinner had the typical mixing of languages and conversations. The most fun for me was talking to a young Austrian woman who is walking this route “backwards.” That means she never sees the same people twice and is always totally alone.

    Lights went out early because breakfast is served at 6:30. Everyone was quite toasty because of the wood stove in the room. By 9:30, I think everyone was enjoying what turned out to be a short four hours of sleep. Suddenly the door burst open and in came a very inebriated man shouting and cursing and telling us all to get out and that he was in charge. My bed was closest to the door and thus closest to him. I was a little unnerved. No one did anything for what seemed to be an eternity, and he just kept going on and on and on. Finally a Japanese pilgrim hopped out of bed and did a few martial arts jumps while yelling in Japanese. The guy quickly went out of the room, only to pick up where he left off out in the courtyard. This went on essentially the rest of the night. He came back in two or three times but was always met immediately by two or three men who would push him back out. He finally disappeared around 5.

    We learned at breakfast that this guy has been given a place to stay by the priest who runs the Albergue. It is of course very charitable for him to do that, but it doesn’t seem like a long term arrangement made in heaven.

    This morning I was out of the albergue before 7, first time I had seen the pilgrim conga line —6 or 7 ahead and a few behind. We soon spread out and it was a great 15 km to the high point and halfway point. Snow-covered Gredos mountains all around us, lots of Roman road, milestones, and then the pigs, cows, horses, and even a bull ranch. Beautiful sky and sun. The only problem was the temperature. People disagree as to whether it was 1, 0, or -1 when we left but it was cold. Actually it was not as bad as I had feared and by 9 I had taken off one pair of pants and my rain jacket. There was a short ascent to windmills, and then a rocky descent. The last 12 kms or so were near a deserted road but over in the grass and very comfortable.

    I am ecstatic to be in a private room. A great little hostal VII Carreras, where pilgrims get a great price.
    Tomorrow I will walk into Salamanca where I will meet a peregrino who has been an enormous help with the Camino Invierno guide. A meet-up with two peregrinas is also in the works. And then figuring out about getting to Madrid to see my very closest Spanish friends. I cannot wait to see them! Home on the 17th. Maybe I’ll wait a few days before starting to plan Camino 2019.    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino Mozarabe April 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Fuenterroble

    12. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Yesterday afternoon two cyclists arrived at the Casa rural. They were having a hard time, because the metal structure supporting the panniers had snapped on one of the bikes. The makeshift solution was on its last legs. They had taken a 12 km detour to a large town, but could find no one to help. They were thinking their camino was over. The woman who checked them in suggested they go see Ernesto, a retired welder/iron worker. And what do you know, in less than two hours, he had totally fixed the problem. Adamantly refusing payment, he told the cyclist to give Santiago a hug on his behalf when he got there. And on the way out of town this morning, Ernesto’s metal Santiago bade us a Buen Camino. .

    With the shortest walk of my whole trip (about 20 km), I stretched it out as long as I could, but even so got to Fuenterroble before noon. Imagine my surprise when I recognized the French hospitalera who greeted me as one I had stayed with before TWICE—once in Miraz more than 10 years ago and once in Rabanal a few years after that.

    This Albergue is probably the most well known on the Vdlp. Started by a priest, Don Blas, it is one of the few remaining “donativo” albergues. They give you a bed, supper, and breakfast, and leave it up to you to decide how much to give. It’s staffed by volunteers and connected to the workshop where several workers are busy restoring old wooden donkey carts. Blas takes a group of them (donkeys, carts, food, tents, children, adults) every year for a pilgrimage in all different parts of the world. The albergue walls are decorated with the backs of carts that have been used on past pilgrimages.

    Last time I was here a big US flag was flying in the courtyard to remind everyone that the US pilgrims association had given a donation. I thought it was in pretty bad taste. This year the flag is gone but the big cement stand for the pole remains. I learned that the flag blew off one night during a huge storm, ironically when some officers of the US association were visiting.

    Lows for tonight are predicted to be -1 or -2 C. That will make for some very cold pilgrims tomorrow. My only solution for the legs is to wear both pairs of pants. Unfortunately they are both very lightweight.    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino Mozarabe April 2018Laurie Reynolds

    More snow in the mountains

    11. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I told myself when I went to bed last night that I would decide today after the first 20 km whether to continue another 20 or stop in Calzada de Bejar. Who was I kidding? I slept till 7, sat chatting in the albergue over coffee till almost 8 and at that point the decision was essentially made. No way could I start at 8 and have an enjoyable 40 km walk.

    Aside from a few early morning kms on the side of the highway, virtually all the rest was off road and very very nice. In forests, alongside pastures and rivers, going up gradually and then descending. I had a lot of time and stopped a lot to talk. Interesting to hear a lot of local opinion about the Catalán “issue.” There seems to be no reasonable solution in sight.

    The Guardia Civil patrol a portion of today’s walk because it is also part of a system of local trails. They were in no hurry to get anywhere and spent ten or fifteen minutes interrogating me about walking alone, etc. They have never had an incident on the camino and have never heard of one in their area. The bigger problem seems to be a bit of illegal dumping!

    I am in a very nice Casa Rural, Calzada Romana. 20 € for private room with bath and breakfast. The owners will also cook dinner, an offer I happily seized upon because there is no store and no restaurant.

    Three more days walking! How crazy is that?!    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino Mozarabe April 2018Laurie Reynolds
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    Two more cattle calls

    10. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Yesterday after lunch I went to the park and chatted with the señoras. The women sit in the park, the men in benches along the road. Just as the women had given me instructions on how to get to the church with several Roman milestones on display, one of the Japanese peregrinos came up, so we went off together. We had a limited conversation, given my non-existent Japanese and his limited English. He told me how he had had to end his first camino early because he got really sick from losing too much weight. He explained that eating in Japan is just as much about the visuals as the taste. If it’s not beautiful, he won’t eat it. Except on the Camino. I thought of Osamu’s words later that night as I looked at my sautéed chicken breast and French fries.

    As usually happens when I get a good night sleep in a private room, I was awake at 5. Finally got up at 5:30, and after coffee, yoghurt and fruit, I resisted the urge to leave before 6:30. There was a little daylight then and I wanted to get started because it was a long day, and the temps are pushing 80. Right at the exit of town I saw a headlamp and a backpack— a confused young Brit I hadn’t yet met was starting out on the wrong path. It was a good coincidence because it’s always nicer to start out in the dark with someone else. In the hour or so that we walked together, I learned that everything he owns (except for one small box in Switzerland) is in that pack and that he has essentially been walking for the last two years. He also told me that I should have just walked right through that herd of cattle yesterday, just making sure not too get to close to a calf.

    The early morning walk was just gorgeous with those oaks, meadows, flowers. There were so many different gates to open and close that it was impossible to know if I was going into a cattle pasture, out of one, or just from one to another. But soon enough it happened again— off to the right a little ahead of me I saw a big group of them walking towards the camino. And lots of little babies!!! I decided that the best strategy was to try to get ahead of them. So I turned left and ran ahead. BUT... the reason these meadows are so green and so resplendent with wildflowers of all colors is because the ground is essentially an over soaked sponge. With totally soaked feet I made it back to the Camino ahead of where they eventually crossed it. Luckily the second encounter was with a bunch of lazy cows, so I passed them easily.

    Aside from the cows, the clear highlight of this stage was the 1st century Arch of Caparra, where I took a long break. Amazing. A group of Germans thought I was more amazing and spent more time talking to me than seeing the ruins.

    The afternoon kms were mainly off-road and very nice. I will probably take s very short day tomorrow. Can’t believe that I have only four days left!!!    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino Mozarabe April 2018Laurie Reynolds
    Heres one baby that the stork did definitely bring!1

    Close cattle encounter

    9. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    It’s funny how different parts of one day can be so very different. First a long lovely stroll through more dehesa. By now, we must be near the end of that area—how I will miss the wet meadows, boulders, oaks, all sprinkled with the white Jara flower.

    I left the albergue before 7 but it was close to daybreak. I coincided with one of the Japanese peregrinos and we walked together till it was clearly light. Then came many kms alone, in fact I saw no one else for the rest of the 32 kms.

    This is a part of the Via de la Plata where there have been re-routings, law suits, just general treachery. Finally the regional government stepped in, backed by a big EU grant and found a four km or so path around the problem area. Very good so far, but when the huge bunch of cattle started coming uphill toward me, I wasn’t so sure I liked the new route.

    Now I KNOW these guys won’t hurt me, and I KNOW that I should just keep walking and minding my own business as they walk past me, but when I see these two big eyes staring at me with two big horns on top, I get a bit nervous. My solution was to backtrack to a really wide part of the path and to stay pinned over on one side. Slowly most of them walked by me. Then, after about 25 minutes, with all but about three past me, up came the cowherd on a moped. He shouted what I knew he would shout —“no hacen nada.” (They won’t do anything). That’s what all the owners of huge barking dogs also say to me when I stand there terrorized. But I am getting a little braver, always repeating the wisdom of a wise peregrina—what owner is going to leave vicious animals running around on their own?

    Anyway, the rest of the walk was a piece of cake. First through the little walled town of Galisteo, and then 11long boring kms on the side of a very untraveled road to my day’s destination of Carcaboso. It’s not exactly a beautiful or happening place but I’m in a very clean hostal and will get a good sleep before my last 40 km stage this year!    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino Mozarabe April 2018Laurie Reynolds
    1

    From the Embalse to Grimaldo

    8. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Last night close to sunset the sky opened up. I heard a lot of thunder but didn’t see any lightening. I was glad to be watching it from inside!

    My room of three women last night was great—lots of space, no noise — and since it was such a short day today I didn’t even get up till 7. Unheard of! The price of the albergue included a breakfast of sorts, but by the time we three women got there it was pretty much all gone. Not a big loss.

    The peregrinos are mainly German and Dutch. Last night there were three Japanese men, and they told us that they have all walked many Caminos and have never coincided with more than one other Japanese. One is from Hiroshima, one has a daughter who got her masters at Northwestern, and one has climbed all of Japan’s 100 peaks twice. And that is all I know about each of them!

    This was another day with very little asphalt —it’s really amazing how little there is on the Vdlp. Two parts were especially nice — one through a pine forest and another through meadows with cork trees. The Jara flower was everywhere. Some bushes have white flowers with five bright red spots, while others have all white. Very pretty.

    There is an albergue here in Grimaldo, but I remembered it being very small and cramped. So I opted for the luxury option — a Casa rural that gives pilgrims a special rate of 20€ if you share or 30€ for private. The owner Cesar is an architect who, like many, lost his job with the housing crash in 2008. He bought this house in ruins and is renovating it little by little and with no bank loans. It is spotless and lovely, with a little garden, and a kitchen.

    The restaurant in town is also excellent with a 10€ menú del día. After a good lunch I spent about an hour with Cesar, as he showed me his labor of love— large organic garden, fruit trees, the work to get the upstairs ready for habitation. All in all, a great little pueblo and a great Casa Rural for pilgrims and non-pilgrims alike!    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino Mozarabe April 2018Laurie Reynolds

    At the Albergue on the reservoir

    7. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    The reservoir where the Spaniards dam up the Tajo River before it gets to Portugal, that is. As you might imagine, this causes a lot of political disputes.

    Today’s walk had two bad asphalt stretches bookending two lovely off-road segments. The first three kms out of Caceres are on the shoulder of a minor but very busy road. When I got to it at about 7:15, the cars were roaring by. The scariest part is always when you see a car coming towards you, and the one behind it pulls out to pass. At that moment I desperately hope for a safe passing maneuver and that the passing car has accurately judged the distances. So far so good.

    From Casar de Cáceres (home of a runny smelly cheese that I can’t find a way to like) there are several hours through ranging land. No cars, no people. Though the scenery is getting more wide open, there were some amazing boulders ringed by wildflowers of all colors. And on that stretch I passed what seemed to be a junkyard of Roman milestones!

    To get close to the reservoir we had to weave under and around the construction of the fast train from Madrid to Lisbon. Only thing is, the Portuguese seem to have backed out of their part of the deal and for now the train will stop at the border.

    That part of the walk was also off-road up and down through rocky fields of wildflowers. I came upon two nice workers, whose job it is to maintain this short stretch of trail. Just some of the many people who make these Caminos possible, many thanks to them.

    Then the last four or five kms, all on the side of a road ringing the reservoir but thankfully with much less traffic.

    So here I am at an Albergue made of cement block in a modern style. It’s very clean and the rooms are for five only. Separate room for the three women—hooray!    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino Mozarabe April 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Enjoying Caceres

    6. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    First guy to leave the Albergue left at 5. The remaining 6 of us started moving around at 6:20 or so. By the time I left the Albergue it was pretty light, another beautiful day (though the forecast shows some rain in the next few days).

    The 24 km were almost all off asphalt. Even though the Camino essentially hugged the national highway, there were very few cars on it because of the autovía (divided highway) being so close. There were tons of cyclists, some on the road, some on the Camino. I think every single one I saw was male. This is the way it always seems to be here, not sure why.

    I got a room in a small hotel and after the obligatory post-walking routine had a couple of hours to wander the old city, which is just beautiful. Lots of 15 and 16 C buildings. I made it to the museum finally (this is probably my fourth or fifth time here) and saw the Moorish aljibe (cistern).

    I only have eight days left to walk and I think I will reach Salamanca.    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino Mozarabe April 2018Laurie Reynolds
    1

    Pilgrim surprise

    5. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    I should have learned by now that snap judgments are dangerous on the Camino, well anywhere really. So yesterday when I had the afternoon to spend in Aljucén, I went with a couple others to the local bar where we sat outside in the shade on a beautiful cool sunny day. We wound up spending several hours there, moving from a couple of lemon Aquarius ( kind of like Gatorade but much less sweet) to an ice cold beer or two. I didn’t know any of these guys, since I had just joined the Via de la Plata the day before in Mérida where the Mozárabe ends.

    It was a very congenial group, a British couple, Canadian guy, Dutch guy and me. Then up comes Antonio, oblivious to the fact that no one but me spoke Spanish. Like a bull in a china shop, he charged into the conversation going on and on in Spanish. I explained that I would have to translate if he wanted anyone else to know what he was saying.

    Truth be told, we had much preferred our previous English conversation, but he just kept talking. He asked everyone why they were walking the camino but before anyone had an answer ready, he jumped in to tell his story. Like many Spaniards, he was doing it to fulfill a promise to Santiago. Several years his sister was diagnosed with cancer. Of the 11 brothers and sisters, he was the only good match as a donor for bone marrow. He promised Santiago that if his sister survived, he would walk a camino. She just completed her three year anniversary, and he decided it was time for him to walk. Wow.

    The next surprise was that he offered to make dinner for a bunch of us. So a few hours later we were all being served a really yummy paella (minus the mussels and prawns). We all agreed that we had not been very pilgrim-like and were totally undeserving of his kindness. And he said he enjoyed it so much he would like to do it again!    Les mer

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino Mozarabe April 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Long day to Aldea del Cano

    5. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Well there was a method to my madness—this long day today means I have a short24 km tomorrow. That means I’ll have the whole afternoon to enjoy Cáceres, a very nice and very pretty city.

    People didn’t start getting up till 6:30, so even though I was awake at my usual 5-ish, I waited till others started moving. By the time I got ready and had a pretty bad breakfast, it was about 7:30 when I started out. That’s late for a 40 km day, but luckily the day was cool.

    The first 20+ kms were just gorgeous, same dehesa landscape as the days before.

    Special treat of the day was a 4 km detour to visit the 7C visigothic church, Santa Lucía del Trampal. Oh so beautiful. Well worth a detour.

    At about km 26, I came to the place where everyone from last night was staying. The town is called Alcuéscar.I have stayed in this place before. It’s a monastery that has one floor as an Albergue. But its main function is to house and provide for a number of men with special needs who have no family. Noble mission, but the last time I was here, I saw less than kind and caring treatment of these poor men. It gave me a very bad feeling and I just didn’t want to stay here.

    So that meant 15 more kms. It was flat and relatively uninspiring, a kind of “pedal to the metal” type of walk. True, there were occasional Roman milestones and a Roman bridge or two, but for the most part it was just something to get done. At about 4:15 I arrived to the small Albergue. Two hours later, showered and with clothes washed, it’s just a 90 minute wait till the nice people in the restaurant next door will serve us a dinner!    Les mer

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