• Arrived!

    9. mars 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Based on daughter’s rave reviews, I decided we’d go to Oaxaca for spring break. With her and ML’s recommendations, we can spend most of the time eating.

    It was a very easy trip from Champaign to Dallas to Oaxaca. Much easier than going through Mexico City, I’m sure. The only downside was a very early flight. But here we are in our hotel, and I’ve done a brief reconnaissance walk while Joe naps. Since we got up at four, I think it’ll be an early night for me. I think the three adjectives I would use are sunny, chaotic, and vibrant.

    I had forgotten to let the bank know we were going, so my first four tries at getting money were failures. Thanks to my two guardian angels back in Champaign, though, it was just a matter of minutes till it was all fixed. Niralee and Abbie, you are the best!
    Les mer

  • Home again

    19. november 2022, Forente stater ⋅ 🌙 -7 °C

    Yesterday was travel day from hell, but we are home!

    First, the fire alarm in the Marriott started going off at 2:30 in the morning and it kept on going off and on intermittently till our 4 am wake up call. By 4:30 we were out of the hotel and on the way to the airport, so I don’t know how long it kept on beeping.

    The one real high point of the day was that I ran into an old UI student of mine (graduation class 2009), who has moved to Lisbon with her husband and settled there permanently. She practices law remotely with a Texas firm, and her husband does something tech related. We had a great catch-up and promised that if I make it back next year, we will get together.

    That was the end of the fun. The flight from Lisbon to London was late, reducing our transfer time to 1 hour and 10 minutes. The very helpful BA flight attendant insisted Joe needed assistance, though I knew he was quite capable of walking it and am not sure why I went along with this. But it meant we had to wait till the plane emptied to deplane, only to find that the “buggy” he had ordered was not there. It arrived a few minutes later, and the driver then told us that the buggy could only take us to the spot where we had to go upstairs to go through security again. So we in essence waited 20 minutes for a 3 minute buggy ride, which would have taken Joe no more than 10, in my estimation. The line was snaking at security, but we jumped to the front. Joe and I go through different lines and for some reason his shoes had to come off while mine didn’t. And then he couldn’t find where his shoes had gone! Then rush down two levels, which are not connected by the same elevator, to get to the level for the shuttle which would take us close to our gate. As we were waiting for the shuttle, I saw that our flight was flashing “final boarding,” which made my heart sink. But I am glad we didn’t just call it quits. At that point, the shuttle arrived and emptied out, but they had to do the “security check”, a manual inspection of all five cars, which took another several minutes. We got to the gate as the agent was actually closing the first boarding door. BUT… the very nice woman called the people at the second door (a floor down from the main entrance) and told them to hold it for a few minutes. As we showed our boarding passes, mine triggered a random extra security search. But since they assured me that we were through and would make the flight, those few extra minutes just gave us time to catch our breath and look less frazzled when we actually boarded. We had not done a Heathrow transfer in many years, and you can be sure I will now avoid it at all costs.

    Once we sat down, and the doors closed, nothing happened. About 15 minutes later, a very apologetic and polite British voice told us that the refrigeration system for the food wasn’t working, and they had to order some dry ice as a substitute. And then of course the mechanics had to fill out several maintenance forms, etc etc. So as a result, our flight was more than an hour late. I will say though, that the food we got was several orders of magnitude more edible than what we have had recently on American or Iberia. We even had an “afternoon tea” before touchdown, clotted cream included.

    Note to self: Do not arrive in Chicago’s international arrivals on the weekend before Thanksgiving. The lines were horrendous, the luggage pick-up and drop-off area just chaotic, and the train back to the main terminal crushed worse than the sardines I brought back from Lisbon. Getting through security was another ordeal, slower than molasses, but finally we got through, only to learn that our Champaign flight would be delayed by about an hour. At that point, we just shrugged and figured the worse was over. And we are now home!
    Les mer

  • Persistence and Resistance

    13. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    First, the persistence. Joe kept insisting he was sure where he left his glasses, so I decided the best option was to go take a look. It would have been a great story! No luck, though the woman in the park’s café told me she had a huge ring of keys, including two car keys, that someone lost yesterday. So I think we got off lucky, just losing glasses.

    From there we decided to go to the Aljube, a former political prison during the Salazar dictatorship. It has been turned into the Museum of the Resistance. We had been there ten years ago when it first opened, and it was just as chilling as before. So many displays of inhumanity. The last rooms of the permanent exhibition end with an upbeat recounting of the Carnation Revolution — deposing a dictatorship without firing a shot. I thought the museum struck the right tone — not too pollyanish but clear in its message that there was a good side and a bad side.

    I found a public elevator I had never seen before — takes you straight down into the middle of the Alfama, the old moorish neighborhood below the castle walls. We hadn’t been down there because there are just too many uneven surfaces, ups and downs, nooks and crannies. But Joe was game, so dowon we went. We did wind up doing a fair amount of up and down through tiny narrow passageways. It is becoming quite the trendy area — lots of Air BnBs, restaurants, souvenir shops, etc, but there are still real people living there, all of whom seem to do their wash on Sunday and hang it outside.

    Our plan was to walk down to the center and catch a cab back to the hotel. But there was no traffic going through the streets. I thought surely there must be some huge political demonstration going on, but after walking a mile or so up from the center towards our hotel, we saw that it was an Antique Car Association gathering that had blocked off the main drag in town and essentially stopped traffic going into the historic core. The cops we asked about it were not big fans, but some of these cars were real gems.

    Finally, about two hours later and three more miles walked than hoped for, we found a cab and made it back to the hotel. Teaching starts up tomorrow bright and early.
    Les mer

  • Tram museum and some wandering

    12. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    The Tram museum is not a 5* attraction but it’s really interesting. It’s housed in the actual huge Carris maintenance and garage facility. You can see some of the original cars (and actually get a ride on one of the very first electric trams from the early 1900s), but it also gives a very good history of the transformation of the company. From a few horse drawn wagon type trams (called “americanos,” perhaps because one of the two owners was from Brazil), and then the laying of rails throughout the city, lots of fascinating pictures. It was also really interesting to see how different the ethos of the company was back then. There was a barbershop on the premises and all employees were required to be well shaved and coiffed. All men in dress shirt and ties.

    Our plan was to visit the Arte Antica museum next, but when we got there they told us that the Hieronymus Bosch painting (which is really the stand out of the European collection) was on loan, and that the entire floor of Portuguese painting (which has some medieval work that I like) was about to close for a two hours lunch break. So we went to Plan B, which involved walking around through the fancy embassy neighborhood and then having lunch in our favorite Lisbon park, Estrela. We were then able to get on the tram 28 for a ride across town to some of the great Miradouros over the Alfama and the Tagus river.

    Joe lost his glasses, which is quite the bummer. But he is having some laser glaucoma treatment when we get home so he may need new glasses anyway. Nothing to be done about it for the time being.

    Still waiting for some election results!
    Les mer

  • Caminho friends and more tiles

    11. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    My teaching week ended yesterday. In the past, we have always rented a car and headed out of town for three days. This year we decided to stay and enjoy the weekend in Lisboa.

    Last night we met up with five Caminho friends. I go way back with Jose Luiz and Natercia, who are the founders and still the prime movers of the Via Lusitana, the Portuguese friends of the caminho association. The rest of us were just plain old Caminho addicts, except for Joe, who went along for the fun of it. A good time was had by all, and we were all given a pretty Portuguese credential as well as a nice Via Lusitana pin. It will go on my camino hat next to my little arrow pin.

    Today we decided to revisit the Palace of the Marques da Fronteira, which is a bit off the beaten path. It’s a 17th century palace, founded by the first Marques, who got his title for his role in the war for independence from Spain. It is still inhabited by the noble family. It has amazing tiles, most made in Portugal but some from outside. Interesting tidbit—I learned why the grotto walls are covered with broken pieces of china. It turns out that King Pedro II attended the celebratory dinner when the palace was completed. According to tradition, any plates used by the king or used to serve the king could never be reused. So they were smashed and became part of the decor.

    A long walk brought us within striking distance of our hotel, and we hopped on a bus for the last km or two.
    Les mer

  • Tile Museum

    9. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Since I’m teaching from 10-1, mornings are out. But I try to get us out and about in the afternoons.

    Today we went to the Tile Museum, where we hadn’t been for 15 years. It’s in a 17th C convent with an over the top baroque church (is that redundant?).

    We enjoyed it very much, especially the 18th century tiles depicting Lisbon before the 1755 earthquake. And there are lots of beautiful tiles from the 14C forward.

    We had taken an Uber to get to the museum. But getting back to the hotel was a challenge, because the museum had no wifi, and I have no telephone service. And it is in the middle of nowhere. Luckily, I had Peggy and Mike’s unused transit cards, so we hopped on a bus to the center. After walking for a few kms, we picked up a cab and got back to the hotel.

    Tonight we went to one of our two favorite hole-in-the-wall places. Freshly caught fish, garlicky green beans, and for the sweets-lover, a leite creme.
    Les mer

  • Our favorite pizzeria

    8. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Two days of teaching, which I am enjoying immensely, and a lot of rain. Today at about 3 pm, the skies cleared, and we hopped in an Uber (there were no cabs outside the hotel, so we had no choice) and headed for the historic center. We walked and walked, feeling quite at home and happy to be here. Down Avenida da Liberdade, through Rossio, down to the river, and over to Casanova, our favorite pizzeria in Lisbon. It’s kind of hidden, across from the Santa Apolonia train station, right on the river.

    We have been to several of our favorite places — Carvoeiro da Palma for grilled fish and fresh mango; Treco Lareco, a hole in the wall place with good home cooking but best of all for Joe, mango mousse; and tonight Casanova, the pizzeria with yummy pana cotta. If you are sensing a sweet tooth trail, you would be right, but it’s not mine!

    The Christmas lights are all in place, and I’m hoping we will get a chance to see them lit up. I love Lisbon!
    Les mer

  • Moving into Work Mode

    5. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    We had 300 kms to drive and all day to do it. So we had a big and very yummy breakfast in the hotel and then got confounded by Google maps, which must not have been up to date on all the horrendous construction in Porto. We finally made it out of the city, only to be messed up again by intersecting super-highways and weirdly placed toll booths.

    But finally we were on the right highway heading in the right direction. I gave Joe several choices of places to stop en route, and he chose Conimbriga, a Roman city founded in the 2nd C BC. Things were great there till the 3rd C AD, when a wall was built to stop the invading Germanic tribes. But the city fell in the 5th C. What remains are some really nice mosaics, ruined baths, a forum with a few columns standing, and a big part of the wall. What’s especially nice about this site is that it’s totally out in the countryside, so you can really get a sense of the layout and the expanse of the city.

    Now here we are in Lisbon, in the same old same old hotel. Two of the doormen recognized us —not surprising since they have been working here for 18 years, which is as long as we’ve been coming!
    Les mer

  • To Pinhais & Cia.

    4. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    The New York Times had an article this summer describing the tour of the Pinhais canning factory, which has retained an entirely manual processing method. The original founding Pinhal family, was ready to close the conservaría (which has been the fate of nearly all of the many canning factories in this area), but a rich Austrian who very much loves these particular sardines bought the factory in 2020. His condition was that the original methods be preserved. And he opened the factory to tours. It was incredibly interesting.

    We started in the original business office, with ornate staircases, beautiful tiles, all the old office equipment. There are a couple of movies (a little hokey) some reels showing old fishing scenes. Then we move to the actual factory, where the work is being done (a M-F visit is highly recommended though they give tours on weekends)

    The line work is all done by women (some in the third or fourth generation). First step, chop off the head and pull out the guts in one swipe of the knife. Another woman cuts off the tail. There’s another line of women that put the special seasoning in each can —clove, Bayleaf, chili pepper, carrot, pickle, and black pepper. Then finally the perfectly cut sardines are placed in the cans. The cans themselves are closed mechanically. But the labels are put on by hand, at a pace of one every six seconds.

    The women seemed to take enormous pride in their work. Many came to greet us on the floor and seemed genuinely happy. The NYT article reported that the women make 800€ a month, which is just minimum wage. I’m not equating job satisfaction with a high salary, but it did surprise me.

    We took a bus out and back, from the Douro to the sea and up the coast a bit. After an hour walk along the water, we headed back. I then took one last walk across the bridge to enjoy the view in late afternoon sun and to watch all the people speaking so many different languages and all enjoying the same beautiful sights.
    Les mer

  • Day in Porto

    3. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    The huge hotel breakfast gave us lots of energy, so from 11-4, Joe snd I walked and visited and walked some more. About 7-8 miles for him today! The trick is frequent stops snd frequent snacks. I stopped counting how many pasteis de nata he has had since we arrived in Portugal.

    We had not intended to stop in the bookstore that is supposedly J. K. Rowling’s inspiration for some of Hogwarts. But she herself has said she was never there! The line was huge and we were walking by. As we stopped to peek at the window, a nice attendant came up and said we could jump the line, no doubt because of our infirm condition. So we paid our €12 and went in. It was mobbed, but it really is a beautiful bookstore.

    From there we got caught up in a huge construction project going on in the middle of the city. Porto is adding a new metro line, a project that will take at least a decade, and it has really made a mess of certain parts of the city. But after we navigated it, we made our way back over to Gaia,, this time on the top level of the bridge. From there, we went to the cathedral and to the Gothic São Francisco church, whose insides have been turned into a Baroque riot.

    I was on my own for a few hours, and just enjoyed going up and down the hills, finding little lookouts, and then walking across the bridge one more time, this time to see the riverside lit up at night. We probably won’t go far for dinner, and hopefully it’ll be an early night to bed.
    Les mer

  • Into Porto

    2. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    I took an early walk through the vineyard and after a scrumptious breakfast (my favorite was a homemade chia mango yoghurt) we headed to Porto. It was an easy drive, at least till we got into the city. Since I’ll be driving the car back to Lisbon on Saturday,, I drove it to a parking garage close to our hotel, which is on a pedestrian street.

    How Porto has changed since we were last here, which was probably almost 15 years ago. Oh so very trendy. Lots of beautiful hotels in old mansions. Ours is in a 16C palace, and has a fitness center with elliptical, so what more could we ask for?

    While Joe napped, I went to the fitness center and then took a walk over the top level of the bridge to Gaia’s Jardim do Morro . Gorgeous views back over the Douro to Porto’s riverside.

    Joe was up and ready to head out with almost two hours of daylight left. We walked down to the river and across to Gaia on the lower level of the bridge this time. Such incredibly beautiful scenes.

    Our hotel is near a million restaurants so dinner will be easy. The last picture is of the biggest penny candy shop I’ve ever seen. They weigh your bag. At 4€ per 100 grams, it’s not cheap.
    Les mer

  • Douro again!

    1. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    The plan originally was to head to Porto today, but someone at breakfast raved about a place they had stayed, in a working vineyard no less. That was enough for me to change plans. I just love this part of Portugal. So we lolly-gagged around the valley, up and down from the river level to high lookout points, and had a picnic lunch at one of them. On the way, I saw several arrows, reminding me that I had walked through these parts a little more than a month ago.

    By about 3:30, we were checked in to the Casal dos Capelinhos. Joe was starting his nap, and I was walking up and down, back and forth (some rows are parallel to the river, some are perpendicular) from one row of grapes to another. The sun dropped slowly behind the hill in front of us, and it was so peaceful. The time flew by.

    We will eat here tonight, and tomorrow we will definitely go to Porto!
    Les mer

  • Nothing but Douro

    31. oktober 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    The rain returned, so we decided that today was the day to take the chug chug train up the Douro to the end of the line, Pocinho. It goes through a part of the river where the train is the only access, and it is quite beautiful. We had a late breakfast and made our way to the train station for an 11:30 train. We were not the only tourists who were doing this, and it involved an hour ride, a half hour wait, and an hour return. Every inch of it along the river. Turns out we had very little rain and lots of nice views, even in the late fall. Some of the grape leaves are still green, others are red, others are yello, others are brown, and still others have fallen off. It makes for a pretty palate.

    Getting back into Pinhao around 2 pm meant we had a late lunch. We ate just a few little empanadas of chicken and tuna, knowing that we were in for another big meal tonight back at the hotel.

    By the time we were done with lunch, the rain had stopped totally and the sky was dotted with big clouds, little clouds, grey clouds, dark clouds, white clouds. We decided to take about an hour drive up into the vineyards and had some pretty amazing views along with a few walks through open vineyards (we figured the owners wouldn’t mind if we walked through the vineyards instead of along the very narrow highway).

    So that was the sum total of our day — no Roman anything, no medieval cities, no megalithic necropolis! Relaxing and plenty of fresh air with beautiful views. The Douro Valley is really one of my favorite places.
    Les mer

  • Repeat of yesterday, minus the rain!

    30. oktober 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Well not an exact repeat, because even though we visited Roman ruins and some stone villages with castles, just like yesterday, we added a squat gothic cathedral and a 5,000 year old necropolis to the itinerary.

    First stop, Centum Cellas, a 1st C Roman tower with ruins surrounding it. The plaque describes it as a mystery structure—prison, fortress, religious site, villa? My camino friend Alan, whose footsteps we are following (though he is walking and we are driving) rightly pointed out that the Romans were too smart to build a prison or a fortress with so many windows.

    Sortelha is less touristy than the “aldeia histórica” we visited yesterday (Monsanto), but it was much more accessible for Joe. More compact, beautifully preserved. Sortelha dates back to the 12C and used to be part of the kingdom of León, so it must have changed hands several times in the back and forth wars that ultimately resulted in two separate countries. Just beautiful.

    From there, on to Sabugal, another castle town. I hadn’t originally thought we’d visit so many, but given the rain of yesterday, and the fact that I remembered this castle as having its entrance directly to a street in town, I thought it’d be a good one to end the castle circuit with. Joe didn’t climb up to the walls, but sat in the Plaza de Armas and waved when I hollered from above.

    At this point, I though Joe should choose between another medieval town or a gothic cathedral, and he chose the latter. So we drove to Guarda, and surprisingly drove straight up to the cathedral entrance and slipped in an open parking place. After lunch in a decent place near the cathedral, we visited the cathedral (Joe said his prayers while I climbed to the roof) and then hit the road for our Casa Rural in the Douro.

    On the way, we saw a sign pointing off road to a megalithic necropolis. Usually these signs give no indication of how far off road they are, but this one said 5 km. As we went through town, I stopped to ask a resident if the route was well marked, if it was really 5 km away, and if the road was paved (all of these questions were learned the hard way). She assured me it was, and off we went. There is something pretty awesome about standing out in the middle of nowhere and walking through a stone structure built 5,000 years ago to bury the dead of the people who built it.

    Then back on the road. Coming from the south, we had to descend to the Douro, cross it, and ascend to our place on the other side. It is lovely, the Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros. Dinner at 7:30 - no night driving on these roads for me!
    Les mer

  • Romans, Castles, and Rain

    29. oktober 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Since Marvao Castle is one of my favorites, I got Joe up there early in the morning for a visit with minimal climbing. Then after breakfast, we drove to Spain, to see Trajan’s bridge (106 AD) over the Tajo/Tejo/Tagus River. I don’t know why I had never heard of it, and it was only thanks to my Camino pal Alan that I knew it was not to be missed. It is spectacular! From there, on to the little historical village of Idanha-a-Velha, where we were able to see some Roman walls and templar towers, and then the rain started.

    Our main destination for the day, the stone village of Monsanto, has become extremely popular in the 8 year interval since we last visited. Parking was difficult (there was one handicapped space open right at the entrance, mocking me for having left Joe’s pass at home). We had about 15 minutes walking on the cobblestone streets through narrow streets and navigating huge boulders. Then the rain started. So I dropped Joe off in a little pastelaria, where he had several empanadas and a few sweets while I climbed up to the castle. Even in the rain, I will climb up to a castle. Thankfully, the rain stopped for a good 20 minutes while I was up there and I was able to climb and enjoy the views. Then a bit more rain while I had a snack in Joe’s place. We did get a good 45 minutes with no rain and enjoyed getting lost in the little narrow streets, it is really a beautiful place.

    We are spending the night in the town of Belmonte. The pousada was full, unfortunately, so we are in town in a modern place that’s fine. I’ve climbed to the castle and explored the judería while Joe naps. That’s a good division of labor for us!
    Les mer

  • Roman Ruins and Castelo de Vide

    28. oktober 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We left Vila Viçosa after a big breakfast and had about a 75 minute drive through the Alentejo to get to the Roman Ruins of Ammaia. I LOVE the Alentejo — small rolling hills with cork, olive, and scrub oak trees all around. The week of rain they’ve had brought another advantage - all the grass was very green, it was so nice.

    We got to ruins of Ammaia, at one time a city of 2,000, located right on the Roman Road to Mérida. Excavations are ongoing, only started in 1994, but they have excavated the main gateway (with the main entrance arch being spirited away in the late 1700s), the forum and its Jupiter temple, and the baths. Truth be told, we have seen a lot of more complete ruins, but it is, IMHO, always a treat to walk through and contemplate how long ago it was and how they lived. The museum has a lot of little pieces of things, lots of jewelry, and some headless statues of men with robes, of which you’ve probably seen millions. My favorite were the stones that explained to Jupiter someone’s gratitude for fulfilling a wish/desire/prayer. Lovesio was apparently born a slave and freed, and left his carved stone of thanks near what was the altar. I thought Joe should leave some carvings on behalf of the other Loves in our family. Joe did great, and only gave my arm two or three black and blue marks.

    We spent almost all afternoon in Castelo de Vide. It was market day, so parking was tough, but we managed. After lunch of a good salad and sandwich, we walked up to the castle, which opened about 3 minutes after our arrival. Dumb luck. I don’t know what it is with me and castles, but I can’t resist climbing up every step to every tower or lookout point. Joe patiently sat in the keep’s courtyard and waved every time my head popped out.

    Castelo de Vide had a very large Jewish population and their Judería is really very pretty and well preserved. Tough up and down walking for Joe, on cobblestone streets, but in addition to my arm, there was a railing down the center so he was supported on both sides. There is what is thought to have been a synagogue, but I think the experts are not all convinced.

    By 5:00 Joe was taking a nap in our very nice “estalagem” and I embarked on a 90 minute trip through the castle. Marvao Castle has always been one of my very favorites and today was great. So much to climb, so many different vantage points, so many series of embedded walls and protected lookouts. The views are just amazing, and I was there till a few minutes before sunset.

    Our estalagem also owns one of the best restaurants in town, Varanda do Alentejo, and it’s right across the street, so we will eat there. Now that I’ve checked out the castle thoroughly, I can bring Joe back tomorrow to the places that are most accessible for him, and he will not have to sit and watch me climb!
    Les mer

  • For my historian friends

    28. oktober 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    When we got to the castle in Castelo de Vide, the very nice man at the entrance told us that there was a new museum inside, dedicated to one of Castelo de Vide’s most illustrious sons — Fernando Salgueiro Maia. On April 25, 1974, a 29-year old Captain in the Portuguese army, he brought his batallion(?) from Santarém into Lisbon in a parade of tanks to form part of the Carnation Revolution. He was positioned in Lisbon in the area of Convento do Carmo, where there is also a military barracks. Turns out the president of the government (Caetano someone) had fled there for protection.

    Salgueiro Maia went inside, demanded the resignation of the government, and it finally came. He spoke to the crowd outside with a bull horn to announce that the government had agreed to step down. The museum shows the evolution of his thought and ultimate decision to join with the other “capitaes”. He had fought in both Moçambique and Guinea, and footage showed some of the carnage he witnessed. Convinced that these colonial wars were going nowhere and were atrociously immoral, he decided, as he said that “Há alturas em que é preciso desobedecer.” (there are moments when it is necessary to disobey).

    As you might imagine, he was praised and feted in the aftermath of the revolution. But the story ends sadly. He was offered many positions in the new government, but unlike the other military heroes, he refused to join the government, being firmly of the opinion that military leaders have no business being government leaders. For that he was shunned, ostracized, and his loyalty questioned. It wasn’t until after his death (at a very young age in the 90s, from cancer) that the government gave his widow Portugal’s highest medals of honor.

    He was born in Castelo de Vide in a modest home (father worked for the RR, mother a maid), and is buried, as he wished, in Castelo de Vide. He has three children — two adopted with his wife, who live in Luxembourg and Lisbon, and an out of wedlock son from his early days, who apparently lives in the US.

    I think Castelo de Vide is rightly and enormously proud of this man.
    Les mer

  • Starting our castle town circle

    27. oktober 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We had a long day of travel yesterday, but I got a few hours sleep on the plane and by 10:30 in the morning we were in our rental car and had dropped off a suitcase at the Marriott for my teaching days. We’ve now got a little more than a week to travel. The first few days will be some castle towns, then the Douro Valley, and then three or four nights in Porto. Then head to Lisbon, and I will have to work. This is my 18th year teaching this two week class, and I have been hoping to make it to 20. But we’ll see, the important thing is to enjoy it while we can!

    I was shocked and a little disappointed to get A car with automatic transmission. Our first stop was Estremoz, a big town or small city in the Alentejo region. It’s perched up on a hill and has a really nice castle as well as a well preserved old quarter. Lots of cobblestones make for slow walking. After lunch we headed to Vila Viçosa, which is where we are staying tonight. In a 16th century convent turned hotel.

    After I plugged the hotel address into my phone, Google maps took us to a dead end in a huge marble quarry. This area has a lot of marble, and you can see it in every town in their benches, in their churches, and even in their castles. It was actually interesting to see the quarry and not too far out of the way.

    While Joe napped I took a long walk around town, explored the castle and almost took a tour of the Duke of Braganza palace. But I remembered from about 15 years ago when we were here that the tour, which is obligatory, lasts an hour and goes through an endless number of rooms. I didn’t think my Portuguese or my interest level was up to it after a few hours sleep, so I just enjoyed the view from the outside.

    The weather is great, low 70s Fahrenheit, with a mix of sun and clouds. The weather app shows rain every day for the next 10 days, but so far so good.
    Les mer

  • The end.

    12. oktober 2022, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    I have spent two wonderful days with my dearest Spanish friends. They live just steps from trails that take us up into the Guadarrama mountains. It is always a wonderful way for me to transition from Camino mode to home mode. I am now on the flight to Chicago. All good things must end.Les mer

  • Back to Santiago

    9. oktober 2022, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    It seems that even if I’m not getting up to walk, I am incapable of sleeping in. The earliest bus back to Santiago on Sunday isn’t till 9:45, so I had plenty of time to take one last walk around the port and the old town.

    The bus, surprise surprise, went directly to Santiago. What a welcome development! No more 2 1/2 hours of meandering all along the coast.

    After all these years of coming to Santiago, I decided today was the day to visit the Museo do Pobo Galego, located inside an 18th century monastery. Really well worth a long visit. I loved seeing all the exhibits about the traditional professions. A completely in tact bagpipe-maker’s shop, a forge, a basket maker’s shop, etc. Lots about fishing, weaving, lace-making. And the spiral staircase that is actually three separate staircases twirling around each other was awesome.

    Since it was getting close to meal time, I went to two of my old favorites that were nearby. The Bodeguilla de San Roque and O Dezaseis. Both closed!!! Thankfully, Casa Felisa, with its pretty outside garden eating area, is still going strong.

    I had a 5 pm reservation to do the Cathedral roof tour, which seemed like a good finale to the whole trip. It was a bit precarious up there, but I didn’t fall off. In the museum, don’t miss the absolutely beautiful stone choir stalls that have been put back together after they were ripped out in the early 17th century.

    Back in my room for a zoom meeting of my homeowners’ association board to discuss an upcoming assessment for updates to the fire suppression system. Most people probably think being on an HOA board is something to be avoided, but I love it!
    Les mer

  • Muxia to Finisterre (31km)

    8. oktober 2022, Spania ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    I have finished my last day walking. So many times during the day I thought “this is my last…” I of course know I that there is always a last day, but this year I was more keenly aware I think. Not sure why.

    I left at around 7:30 and ran into the only other two people I knew in Muxia. It was nice having company till the sun rose an hour later. When I got to approximately the halfway mark, the town of Lires, I took a detour out to the beach. Very little of this day’s walk is actually on the coast, even though we are walking from one coastal town to another. But this little detour, which swings back up to the Camino, was very nice, even though the café/ bar there was closed.

    When I got to Finisterre, I had a text from a good friend in Santiago that he, his girlfriend, and son were driving out to Finisterre for lunch. I was very surprised but happy to see them again. Then after lunch, they said they’d meet me up at the lighthouse. That struck me as very strange but off I went by myself. When I got up there, I saw that my friend had set up his camino pop-up photography studio. He has done this off and on for years. He sets up his “studio” on the Portugues and takes pilgrim pictures. I’ve seen a lot of the results and he’s very good. So let’s see what he can do with me! He took about 60 or 70 shots, so there must be at least one that’s not awful.

    I was up at the lighthouse for sunset and, truth be told, it was not a terrific sunset. Oh well, but the silver lining was that walking down back to Finisterre the moon came out. And it was a full moon and it was glorious.

    Now begins the journey home. Tomorrow I will get back to Santiago. Lots to sort out.
    Les mer

  • Dumbria to Muxia (23km)

    7. oktober 2022, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Short day, not too much elevation and the destination is 5*****. Another day of going through small hamlets, usually connected by dirt paths up and down and around the monte. I met an elderly señora waiting for the grocery store truck. She told me she would not be able to stay in the village if it weren’t for these wandering, honking trucks. And I talked for a while with a man cutting the “maleza” with a scythe. He gave me a few basic pointers, but I declined the chance to whack with it, especially when I saw how sharp it was.

    There’s a beautiful Romanesque church in Moraime, about 5 km before town. My favorite piece is the Last Supper depicted over a side doorway. I have never been able to get inside, but if I had been willing to stick around for about three hours, I could’ve gotten in today with the women coming to set up for a wedding tomorrow. Maybe next time.

    The entrance into Muxia is nice. Truth be told, it’s not a very picturesque place, except for the sanctuary at the tip on the rocks. Very good seafood restaurants, and a pretty lively atmosphere. Since my room in the hospital wasn’t ready when I arrived, I just dropped off my backpack and went out to the sanctuary. Sitting on those rocks and watching the waves crash is a really nice place to reflect on things. Even on a windy cloudy day.

    I will go back for sunset but it might be a washout.
    Les mer

  • Vilaserio to Dumbria (31km)

    6. oktober 2022, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Just yesterday I was thinking that this has been the first Camino I can remember with no falls. You guessed it. This morning, walking on asphalt, I somehow got my foot tangled up with one of my poles and down I went. It tore a good size hole in my pants and scraped my knee, but luckily I was able to stand up and keep walking. I think I will not reflect today on how I’ve been lucky to have avoided bed bugs this year.

    The walk was pleasant, nothing spectacular. It’s really the destinations that make this so special, so apologies to those who say “ It’s the journey and not the destination.”

    I took a long shoes-off break at 20 km in the town of Olveiroa. This is where one of my favorite little stone house Casa rural/restaurant combination is. They have wonderful food, but unfortunately the timing for a meal was bad. But with my Fanta de Limon, I got several little plates of homemade tapas, which was all I needed to get me through the last 11 km. The split in the camino, left for Finisterre, right for Muxia, meant I had about 4 left.

    I am in an albergue, the one funded by the man who owns the Zara empire. I was told I could have the handicapped room (a single) because of my advanced age. 😀That’s very nice because there is a large group of Portuguese teens who are nothing if not exuberant.

    There will not be much of a dinner tonight. No restaurant, no functioning kitchen in the albergue, but at least there’s a small supermarket where I can buy something.
    Les mer

  • Santiago to Vilaserio (34.5 km)

    5. oktober 2022, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Harder day than I remembered. I have decided to walk the same stages as I did the last time I walked to the ocean, which must be at least 6 years ago. I think if I ever go this way again, I’ll add at least a day, but I really have to get going and get home!

    I started a little after 7 am. Sunrise in Santiago today was a little before 8:30. But I had my headlamp, and I knew there would be other people out there walking. I started walking with a group of nine, very lively and friendly. Four from the Canaries, two Basques, two from Alicante, and 1 Italian. They suggested that I join them and extend my walk by a few days so that I could go all the way back to Santiago, but I explained that I would not be welcome in Champaign if I kept walking any longer.

    It’s a very pretty day, goes through one of the most beautiful little villages in Spain, Ponte Maceira, and the medium sized town of Negreira. I always stop at the town’s statue of the emigrant. Galicia lost a huge portion of its male population to emigration after the Civil War, and the statue displays the sad reality in a very poignant way.

    The little hamlet where I am tonight has two albergues and one restaurant. I have stayed in both of the the Albergues. Two months ago one of them opened a little building with private rooms, so I took one of those. The albergue is full and I admit that albergue living has lost some of its glow for me. All of us will have dinner together in the restaurant, so really all I’m missing out on is the snoring and the shared bathrooms.
    Les mer

  • Rest day in Santiago

    4. oktober 2022, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The city is filled to the brim. So many pilgrims— you see the ones arriving, the ones who have arrived and are spending some time here, and the ones all packed up and on their way to train , bus, or plane. Occupancy rates are the highest they’ve been all year.

    This morning, I had to pack up my stuff and move from one hotel to another. It wasn’t a big deal, but it is amazing that I was unable to get two nights in a row in the same place, unless I wanted to spend €333 for a room in the Parador.

    I went through the holy door, which is only open during holy years and provides a plenary indulgence. A holy year is a year in which Saint James day falls on a Sunday, though the pope extended last year’s I also attended the Pilgrim Mass. and saw the botafumeiro swing. Though I got to the cathedral an hour before the mass, there were no seats left; I found a very comfortable perch at the base of an old stone column. It was a high mass, officiated by one Archbishop, two or three bishops, and about seven other priests. It felt a little weird that the celebration was in honor of international policing day. Some high-ranking officials from the national police made a few statements. And then one of the priests talked to us about how necessary police are and how we should be prepared to give up liberty to ensure tranquility. It was a bit jarring to someone used to the idea of separation of church and state. But then I have often been surprised by how many solemn Spanish religious celebrations include participation by the military, so I guess this is no different. After the mass I lit a bunch of candles and sat in the now almost empty cathedral. I remembered the day about 15 years ago when Dana and I walked into Santiago from the Camino del Norte and ran into my parents in the cathedral. We had known we were close but in those pre-iPhone days we were not in close contact. How I miss them.

    I got a ticket to visit the Portico de la Gloria, the original doorway to the cathedral before they added the current baroque facade. Thankfully, they left the Romanesque in tact. After about a decade of restoration (and 11 million euros), it’s once again open to the public. No pictures are allowed, so you’ll have to Google it if you want to see. I (and many who know a lot more than I do) think it’s one of the most beautiful examples of Romanesque in Spain. My favorites are the 24 elders in a circle around Christ, each one playing a different medieval instrument. And the smiling Prophet Daniel.

    The stars at home have aligned to allow me to enjoy the icing on the cake —walking to Muxia and then Finisterre. I haven’t been out to the ocean in years, and I am so grateful that I got the greenlight. I’ll be doing longer than usual days so as not to abuse their graciousness. This means four more days of walking and then a few days to get home.
    Les mer

  • A Estrada to Santiago (33 km)

    3. oktober 2022, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The walk was good, I felt good, and so I pushed on to Santiago.

    It’s been years since I felt this good walking into Santiago. Last year, injury; year before, COVID; and several years before that it was just a flat feeling. But today, even though it was a long hot day, and even though I got really messed up coming into the city, when I walked into Obradoiro, I felt like things were soaring—gratitude, happiness to be alive, realizing how lucky I am to be physically able to walk the camino. I sat and watched as hundreds of other pilgrims came into the square, just sat and watched. I didn’t know any of them, yet I think we shared a bond.

    For some crazy reason, I went to the Pilgrim’s office to get my compostela. One more to put in the closet. There’s a new, much more automated system in the office, and I couldn’t help but compare back to my first compostela in 2000. No familiar faces there for the first time in years. Things change.

    This afternoon and evening were for spending time with good friends. And now I’m going to bed. Rest day in Santiago tomorrow.
    Les mer

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