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Spring break in OaxacaSpring break in Oaxaca
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A 8-day adventure by Laurie Read more
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  • Laurie ReynoldsSpring break in Oaxaca
    Day 1

    Arrived!

    March 9, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Based on daughter’s rave reviews, I decided we’d go to Oaxaca for spring break. With her and ML’s recommendations, we can spend most of the time eating.

    It was a very easy trip from Champaign to Dallas to Oaxaca. Much easier than going through Mexico City, I’m sure. The only downside was a very early flight. But here we are in our hotel, and I’ve done a brief reconnaissance walk while Joe naps. Since we got up at four, I think it’ll be an early night for me. I think the three adjectives I would use are sunny, chaotic, and vibrant.

    I had forgotten to let the bank know we were going, so my first four tries at getting money were failures. Thanks to my two guardian angels back in Champaign, though, it was just a matter of minutes till it was all fixed. Niralee and Abbie, you are the best!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsSpring break in Oaxaca
    Day 2

    First day, the sights of Oaxaca

    March 10, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    This was a day with a ton of little snippets and no through line, if that makes sense. Parks, markets, street musicians, the Stamp museum with its VW covered in stamps and a treasure trove of Frida Kahlo letters, a few markets, more parks, lots of street vendors. You can’t go for more than a block without running into something that makes clear I’m far from Illinois.

    Mostly joyful with a few sad parts thrown in. A woman in tears because she had been robbed, and a wooden wall with many posters snd graphics protesting the disappearance of loved ones. Two men going at it in a square. My phone tells me I’ve walked 17 miles and Joe’s 10., so there were a lot of steps from one street scene to the next. I loved it.

    Oaxaca is bursting with tourists, lots of cheap trinkets and guys hawking tours or mezcal tastings. I can’t compare it to how things were before the invasion. But I’m loving it just how it is!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsSpring break in Oaxaca
    2
    Day 3

    To Monte Alban

    March 11, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    This morning we took a cab to the Monte Alban archaeological site. There are about 20 buildings pyramids,, a beautiful ball court and an observatory. We did not have a guide because we needed to do this at our own rhythm.
    I bought a little book in the bookstore, so we had plenty of information. Although there were a few flights of steps that were fairly hairy, Joe managed to navigate them all without mishap. He used the hiking poles and they worked well on the uneven terrain. I think he did very well and enjoyed the visit, even though he did spend some time sitting in the shade while I climbed up and down.

    In spite of all the archaeological studies, there’s still so much mystery surrounding these places. Carvings that were once thought to be dancers, are now considered to be dead castrated prisoners. And apparently no one has ever figured out what the rules of the ball game were. According to what I have read, injury, and death were probably a part of the playbook. And all those standing stones or special obelisks with unknown astrological purpose. So much we don’t know about the past!

    There was a huge poster, put together by the technical and professional staff of the national Institute of archaeology and history (INAH), complaining that the organization has received no budget for the last couple of years. Ringing the warning, bell and hoping for some action.

    I had considered renting a car and taking a few day trips, but that is definitely off the table now that we’ve been in the midst Oaxaca traffic. Omar, the taxista who took us today, is going to pick us up tomorrow and take us out for another half day trip. He described a lot of options so I’m sure we’ll be in good hands. We make a habit of this since we still have four days here!

    Nap time is over. Heading for a stroll and dinner at another highly recommended restaurant. The life of Riley.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsSpring break in Oaxaca
    1
    Day 3

    Weddings

    March 11, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We had a few hours to walk around before dinner, so what better thing to do than head towards Plaza Santo Domingo , where something always seems to be happening. And oh yes, today is wedding day. Very festive processions, with the wedding party, bands, big balloons, and a variety of people in all sorts of traditional garb. I saw the people sitting next to me on the plane, dancing their way down the street in one of the wedding parties!

    We saw at least five over the course of an hour. Oaxaca must be a destination wedding hotspot because most of the balloons announced couples who were not likely local. “Casey y Summer,” “Chris y Ellen.” But no matter where they were from, they all seem to be having a grand time.

    We then made it down to our restaurant called La Catedral, for a really good meal. We are eating well and enjoying those meals in beautiful patios and terraces.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsSpring break in Oaxaca
    Day 4

    Travel by TAXI!

    March 12, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    I am so glad I gave up on the idea of renting a car. A little more luxurious than our normal way to travel, but Omar, our taxista from yesterday, said he would be glad to drive us around. We felt so pampered — left off right at the entrance, picked up whenever we appeared, it was great! We liked it so much, we are going to do it again tomorrow, I’m embarrassed to say. He came up with a great itinerary today and promises more of the same tomorrow.

    The highlight of the day was our first stop, Mitla, another Zapoteca city, which was the religious capital of the Zapotecas after Monte Albán started its decline. It survived until the Spanish conquest, and as frequently happened, much of the site was destroyed and repurposed to build the church. Luckily, the Spaniards must not have wanted geometric designs in their churches, because there are many untouched friezes of unique geometric mosaics, rows and rows ringing the tops of the now roof-less buildings.

    The rest of the day was a bit of this and a bit of that — we went to Hierve el Agua, beautiful mineral springs where the water bubbles up from underground and its minerals are deposited as the water flows down the cliffs to the pools, making stalagtites (though they call them “petrified waterfalls” here). Spectacular setting overlooking a valley and a ring of mountains, and the water is bright blue-green. We didn’t have our suits, but got our legs wet.

    Then to a family mezcal-making place, using donkeys, old barrels, lots of manual labor. The young father leaves his 15 year old in charge of the production, while he spends his time caring for the plants. He talked almost lovingly about the different kinds of agave and how he brings them to maturity. But what a life — very little production must translate into very little income.

    We spent some time in one of those chokingly crowded Sunday markets, in Tlacolula. I love walking through and gawking, but the thought of actually buying something there is of absolutely no interest. I am just a bad shopper. At Omar´s suggestion, we had some plates of roasted goat and lamb, slow-cooked by the vendors and served with, of course, homemade tortillas. Then another Zapoteca site, Yagul, with its perfectly untouched ball court.

    We ended the day with a trip to a friend of Omar’s whose family makes weavings with organic dyes and hand looms. The whole town, whose name I can’t remember, seems to be a textile/rug mecca. Oh yes, one last stop at the Tule tree, a Montezuma cypress (whatever that is) reported to have the largest tree trunk in Latin America. I am glad that Joe resisted the urge to challenge Omar when he made the claim, but he couldn’t avoid an eye roll. One really interesting tidbit, at least for those who love local government like I do, was the fact that this town is one of “usos y costumbres.” No political parties, ruling by consensus and unwritten norms, sort of sounds like a New England Town Hall. I would love to know more.

    We have had a sensory overload of the best type and will settle for sandwiches from the very excellent bakery down the street, Boulenc. The lines start at 8:15 in the morning and seem to be a permanent feature. Getting takeout requires less of a wait.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsSpring break in Oaxaca
    2
    Day 5

    Artesanato Day

    March 13, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I am not a good shopper but I do love seeing the real artisans using traditional methods of craftsmanship. They are fighting the wave of cheap imported copies, and may ultimately lose the battle. But going out to the pueblos and watching them at work was very interesting and gave hope that the traditional methods will survive.

    We went to four different pueblos, one was dedicated to red clay, one to weaving, one to black clay, and one to making those fantastic painted alebrijes. Each town had its own artisans, all working by hand to produce high quality products.

    But aahhh the alebrijes. They are creatures made by combining several real animals into one, and the result is something half-real, half-fantasy. All based in Zapoteca tradition. The process is incredibly labor intensive. From carving the copal wood and then drying it and treating it before painting. One guy in the taller does nothing other than prepare the carved wood for painting. This involves filling the cracks that have emerged spontaneously as the wood dries. And then sanding. All by hand. Then comes the painting, omg the painting.. The paints are plant based and then mixed with either honey or mezcal to change the shade or the brilliance. Each little pot of paint made by hand and mixed with love. And each tiny row of minuscule geometric design on the figures reproduces some Zapoteca symbol—for love, sorrow, fidelity, honor, etc. It takes weeks to paint one of these figurines.

    Ok I confess I bought one. It was what Joe would call an impulse purchase but it’s beautiful and fantastical. And it felt good to support the preservation of these traditions in some small way.

    We’re now sitting on a terrace in a restaurant overlooking the Zocalo, with music playing a marimba and spontaneous dancing by anyone so inclined. Sone seem professional, most just there for fun. Our waiter tells us this happens every night.

    Lots of traditions seem to be surviving!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsSpring break in Oaxaca
    1
    Day 6

    Wandering

    March 14, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    I had heard about two different barrios with lots of houses with murals on the wall. Xochimilco and Jalatluda. Joe was in slow mode today, so this was a good way to spend our time. I was able to plan a walking route that included churches and parks (pews and benches are always appreciated) as we went through the barrios. The murals are fantastic —some whimsical, some political, some just weird.

    Dance classes in the park, school bands practicing, speeches of some political stripe. There’s always something to watch. Especially since we had no real agenda or itinerary. We were going to go to the Archaeological Museum today, but decided to spend today outside to enjoy a break in the high temps we’ve been having. If I were a shopper I’d be in heaven because it seems to be the main thing people do when they walk around the city.

    We did pop into a few churches and as always found only a handful of women (usually but not always old like me). We spent some time in a convent turned research library. Very interesting presentations on the excavations nearby and the evidence that Zapotecas were here in force when the Spaniards came calling.

    We have eaten a cautious amount of street food, but typically play it safe. It’s almost as much fun to watch the preparations and the people.

    I’ve met four women in our hotel, two of whom have walked the camino. They seem to be sitting outside in the patio while Joe is napping, so it’s been fun to talk about my favorite activity with them.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsSpring break in Oaxaca
    Day 6

    Restaurants and cafes.

    March 14, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I want to keep a list of good restaurants we’ve enjoyed so I won’t forget. In no particular order I’d recommend them all. La Catedral, Casa Oaxaca, Maguey y Maíz, Asador Vasco (good fish), Danzantes, Origen, La Pitiona, Tierra del Sol (the only one that wouldn’t get a strong thumbs up from me). And our last night in 15 Letras.

    Coffee and breakfasts. Boulenc, Filemón, and Jazz.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsSpring break in Oaxaca
    Day 7

    Last day in Oaxaca

    March 15, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We had saved the visit to the Archaeological Museum till our last day, so my heart sank as I saw rows of police barricades all around the square. The TV crews were there to film an episode of Top Chef, and the contestants were lining up to start racing around their portable kitchens set up outside in the sun.

    Luckily there was a narrow passageway open to let museum-goers around the square. It’s a real treasure trove of all sorts of artifacts— jewels, household goods, religious statuary, and burial urns and masks. Most were found at Monte Alban and are very nicely displayed. The most spectacular room houses the find in Tomb7 from the 1400s, after the Miztecas took Monte Alban from the Zapotecas. Most of the other rooms house much earlier stuff, from several centuries BC till the decline of the city around 800 AD. Lots of wows.

    I had never taken a city bus tour but as we left the museum one was filling up, so we got on. An hour around the city, seen from the top of a double decker. I don’t imagine there are too many cities where the drivers of these buses have to warn riders to duck to avoid either branches or (more ominously) electrical wires. It was a fun way to wrap up the touring and luckily no one was decapitated.

    One more nap for Joe, one more neighborhood stroll for me, and one more dinner. The author of the Moonstruck guide reports that after eating dinner at the restaurant we’re going to (15 Letras), he had tears of joy because it was so good. That strikes me as a bit hyperbolic but it should be good!

    P.S. I just got a travel alert from American, advising me of thunderstorms in Dallas tomorrow. So who knows where we will sleep tomorrow night!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsSpring break in Oaxaca
    Day 7

    Travel day —make that DAYS

    March 15, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Thursday night before heading to our wonderful meal in Quince Letras, I got a travel alert from American. Bad weather tomorrow in Dallas and did I want to change my flight . My few attempts to contact AA we’re unsuccessful, so I just left everything as it was.

    I thought things were looking up when we boarded our flight in Oaxaca, headed to Dallas, just a few minutes late. I was wrong.

    Storms in Dallas meant we had to divert to Houston to get more fuel. After about 90 minutes on the runway, they cancelled the rest of the flight. The plan was to get to Dallas in the morning.

    They told me the only way to get home before Tuesday was to fly into Bloomington from Dallas. But then while I was waiting for the hotel voucher, two seats on the Dallas flight to Champaign for today magically, opened up.

    We had a night in an airport hotel, and got on the 630 shuttle to get back to the airport for our 9 AM flight. Halfway to the airport I realized Joe did not have his backpack. I called the hotel, and they were very unhelpful. Since the pack contained our very expensive alebrije, and since the very nice driver assured us he would get us back right away, we took the chance . And here we are in Houston airport once again.

    So here we go, starting Day #2 of travel. Hoping it is uneventful.

    Edited to add that we made it to Dallas, and our flight to Champaign leaves in about 90 minutes. To top it all off, it is SUNNY! We are the beneficiaries of someone else’s travel woes, because the flights to Champaign are all full for days.

    Just so I won’t lose track of the names of the restaurants we enjoyed, here they are:

    I’d recommend them all. La Catedral (in the patio), Casa Oaxaca, Maguey y Maíz, Asador Vasco (good fish), Danzantes, Origen, La Pitiona, Tierra del Sol (the only one that wouldn’t get a strong thumbs up from me). And our last night in 15 Letras was fabulous, on the roof terrace.

    Coffee and breakfasts. Boulenc, Filemón, and Jazz.    Read more

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