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Laurie Reynolds
Laurie Reynolds

Laurie Reynolds

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMexico City 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Another day in the Centro

    24 de janeiro de 2018, México ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C

    Joe's plane arrived late on Monday night, due to delays and cancellations, but he was in the hotel by 11 or thereabouts. Yesterday we spent in the Centro Histórico, visiting some of the main places I had saved till his arrival. First was the trip through the Templo Mayor, whose excavation took a big jump in the 80s when some buildings had to be destroyed because of earthquake damage. Though you can see a lot of the ruins by walking on public paths, paying the 70 pesos is definitely worth it. The walk is much more up close and personal and through parts not visible from above, and then there is also the museum. Great museum.

    After that we headed over to the Palacio de Bellas Artes (art deco inside with an indigenous twist!) where we went to a special exhibit on major painters' use of a special Mexican red paint pigment, called the grana cochinilla. Velazquez, Rubens, Joshua Reynolds, Van Gogh, Titian, all had works exhibited. But the main point was the murals, with all three of the triumverate represented. The most famous is Rivera's mural that went up in Rockefeller Center and then was destroyed because Rockefeller didn't like it. Theories as to why he did it include the fact that his father was a tea-totaller and is shown with a martini, but the more likely explanation seems to be the overwhelming marxist message. Rivera painted it again back in Mexico and there it is for all to see.

    After our gym/rest routine, we spent a few hours visiting churches, plazas, the usual tourist routine. Dinner in Azul Histórico, where we both had excellent fish, was a good way to end the day.    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMexico City 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Pyramids!!!

    22 de janeiro de 2018, México ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Yesterday, I asked my Uber driver if he would be interested in driving me out to the Pyramids and back. Promptly at 7:30, his VW Passat was outside the hotel. By 8:45, I was walking through the enormous site at Teotihuacán. 5 hours was just barely enough, and I am a pretty fast walker! In addition to the temple of the Plumed Serpent, the Pyramid to the Moon, and the Pyramid to the Sun, there are tons more things to see and do, including a museum with the best frescoes from the site, another museum with artifacts and a model of the entire city as it existed when 85,000 people lived there, several palaces with more frescoes, altars, and underground caverns. It is truly overwhelming. The day was cloudless, not too hot, and the grounds were not too crowded. Just perfect.

    On the way out in the morning, I learned that Arturo is a law student, and that gave us plenty to talk about during the trip. This guy has a lot of drive and character, a 35 year old going back to school at age 32, and now just two years away from being a lawyer. Driving Uber is the best job he could hope for, he says, because it gives him all the flexibility he needs. When we got to the gate, Arturo confessed that he hadn't been to the Pyramids since he was 12, so I bought him a ticket too. We both went our own way and compared notes on the way home. Based on this sample of 2, I would say most people come away slack-jawed.

    So if anyone needs a driver in Mexico City, let me know because I have Arturo's email and phone numbers -- much better for him if you set it up privately, like I did for the pyramids.    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMexico City 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Moving to the Centro Historico

    21 de janeiro de 2018, México ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    My three amigas had to head home, so I had the day to myself. First a couple of hours walking around the Condesa neighborhood. Seems that every single person in Mexico City is out and about on Sunday. In parks, on bikes, in playgrounds, eating street food. It was pretty lively!

    Around noon I got an Uber up to the Centro Histórico hotel -- had to move to a place with a gym, since I'll be here another week. Joe will arrive tomorrow early evening, and this place is really well located and comfortable in an old building. Hampton Inn, believe it or not!

    So, for the afternoon, I went to a few places that wouldn't necessarily be on the top of Joe's list. San Ildefonso, the first Jesuit school in Mexico, till they got kicked out of the country by Carlos III. There are some great murals in here (Rivera's first), and there was also an exhibit on Che's 7 months in Africa. Who knew?!

    Walking towards my next destination, I passed an open air Dali sculpture exhibit. I am not much of a Dali fan, but it was fun. In the Diego Rivera museum (built just to house one of his really beautiful murals when the building it was in collapsed), there was a Sunday afternoon piano concert in the mural room. Other rooms have photos and paintings from his trip to Russia. So I am getting my dose of lefties today. I guess Dalí balances that out.

    Last stop, Museo de Arte Popular, really super. Free on Sunday (as was the previous place) and though it's small, it has great displays, all really nicely done.

    Time to get a bite to eat and into bed early. I'm leaving for the pyramids at 7:30 in the morning.    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMexico City 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Chapultapec Park

    20 de janeiro de 2018, México ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Today we slept a little later, having gotten back from our foodie dinner extravaganza in Pujol around 1 am. We decided to spend the day in Chapultapec Park. First stop, the Archaeological Museum. ABSOLUTELY amazing. We wound up spending about 3 1/2 hours there, which is way above my normal museum saturation point. Since the museum is right in the park, we spent several hours there. It was a very lively spot, lots of families, groups of friends, young and old. We just soaked it in and were surprised at how few foreigners seemed to be enjoying this place. Late lunch at the taquería recommended by our B and B -- El Califa. Excellent tacos, and they have a few spots around the city, so I may be back!

    What a great city. I guess we will have to find a way to fit another meal in our bellies, but it is going to be a tight squeeze.    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMexico City 2018Laurie Reynolds

    To the Centro Historico

    19 de janeiro de 2018, México ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Today was our day in the centro histórico. We went to buildings with Rivera murals, took a very quick trip through the cathedral (baroque is NOT my favorite) and very much enjoyed the excavations of the Templo Mayor. We wound around through little streets to watch the energetic street life bordering on chaos. Who else has five traffic cops at one intersection? Tonight we have dinner reservations at Pujol, reported as one of the world’s top 15 restaurants. Katy told me to prepare to roll our eyes a bit. But it should be fun!Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMexico City 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Trying to get there

    18 de janeiro de 2018, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☀️ -1 °C

    Unbelievably, the travel gods seem to have looked down on me favorably. My new bag to avoid gate checking just barely fit under the seat in Champaign, my flight to Dallas arrived early, and my flight to Mexico City is going to be on time! Really looking forward to this adventure.Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Home

    4 de janeiro de 2018, Estados Unidos ⋅ ⛅ -15 °C

    No pictures, no stories. Just 22 hours since I got out of bed. Our 5 am water taxi had to drop us off for a cab because of too much fog on the lagoon. I was really hoping to pull up to the Venice airport in a water taxi but oh well.

    We missed the brunt of the east coast bomb cyclone, but O’Hare’s international terminal was overflowing with people from flights diverted from New York, Boston, etc. It was crazy and chaotic. Our little puddle jumper down to Champaign was the most peaceful part of the journey. Home again! This was a wonderful trip.    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Last vaporetto rides on the Grand Canal

    3 de janeiro de 2018, Itália ⋅ 🌙 4 °C

    For our last day, we decided to visit a couple of museums and churches in different parts of town. That means we spent our last day doing pretty much what we have done on the other days -- riding on the vaporetto and walking through the neighborhoods. The Palazzo Mocenigo was our starting place. An 18th century palace preserved with original furnishings and a beautiful collection of 18th century male vests, embroidered of silk, linen, and lace. Wow.

    Then to the Guggenheim, lots to see and great views over the canal. I even saw a Jackson Pollock painting that I liked! After lunch, we navigated our way around to see a couple more churches. My favorite was San Nicolo di Mendicoli, kind of tucked away in a remote corner but we found it.

    Back to San Marco Square for one more walk around (still stupefied by the huge crowds) and then had a hot chocolate and sweet for twice what we spent on lunch in a cafe in the square. But where else can you listen to a piano player, eat a canolo, and look out the window and see the Doge's Palace? We have a reservation for one last Italian dinner in a recommended trattoria near the hotel. Tomorrow morning at 5 am we will be in a water taxi heading to the airport.

    Home sweet home beckons. I was glad to see that the temps have risen a bit. High tomorrow of 8 F (-13 C) with a low of -7 (-22 C). Always sounds so much colder in centigrade!    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Island hopping, Venetian style

    2 de janeiro de 2018, Itália ⋅ 🌙 3 °C

    I think we got our 120 euros worth on the vaporetto today alone! From 9 till 5 (for Joe) and almost 7 (for me) we were hopping on and off. We visited three outlying islands and saw two drop dead gorgeous ancient churches, with mosaics from X and XI century.

    First stop, Burano, a pretty little island that is home to the Lace Museum (which we did not visit). But walking the streets was a real pleasure, this is a place with a lot of life. From there it was another 5 minutes on another vaporetto to the island of Torcello, which has a Byzantine cathedral and an XI century church. And what is "said to be" Attila the Hun's throne. Amazing, beautiful, jaw-dropping.

    From there to the island of Murano, more on the normal tourist circuit, with its glass blowing tradition, a glass museum, AND an astonishing basilica from the XI and XII centuries. Truly one of the most beautiful romanesque exteriors anywhere. Lunch in a trattoria and a visit to the glass museum rounded out the day. When we got back to Venice, Joe went to "take a load off his feet" while I went out for a couple more hours of walking/vaporetto riding in central Venice. It never gets boring, from San Marco to Rialto to the train station.

    Tomorrow is our last day, and I guess it's only fair that Joe should decide our activities, since he followed me to the ends of the lagoon to see these romanesque churches!    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Rain on New Year's Day

    1 de janeiro de 2018, Itália ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Despite our best efforts, Joe has come down with a little cold. He decided to go back to bed after breakfast, giving me two hours to walk around our neighborhood and get a little exercise. I made it up to see the Calatrava bridge (WHOSE idea was it to put a Calatrava bridge over the Grand Canal?), found a few more churches and nice piazzas, and just as my time was running out it began to rain. I am sure I was wandering in circles, but by following the signs to one end (train station and bus station) or the other end (Rialto and San Marco), I was always able to make it back to my little spot in the middle. I saw a fair number of people using their phones, but I think it is more fun to follow the signs, especially since I had no real destination in mind.

    We decided to spend the day in two museums that had unexpectedly opened on New Year's Day. One, the Modern Art Museum, had a painting by one of my all time favorites, Sorolla. That alone was worth the visit. Picasso, Miro, Calder, Max Lieberman, Klimt, Andy Warhol, Chagall and a few others you'd recognize also had paintings there. Lunch in the museum café was fine if not exceptional, and then we got a vaporetto down to a Doge palace open for visits, Ca Rezzonico. Though the building was much older, they had restored its furnishings and interior decoration to the 18th century style and it was quite grand. Lovely views right over the Grand Canal, those doges and their families had it pretty nice.

    The rain was still coming down a bit, so we decided to head back to the hotel so Joe could get another nap before dinner. I brought my cold-eze and Airborne, so he hopes to nip it in the bud. While he sleeps, I will try to figure out how we will get out to two islands tomorrow, Murano and Torcello, both of which have ancient churches. Murano is also the site of all the famous glass making, and a glass making museum, but I doubt we will be buying too many 45 euro glasses. Though some of them are very pretty! Dinner in a few hours back at a place where we ate a few nights ago. The waitress told us they were one of the few in the area that would be open for dinner on January 1, so we went ahead and made a reservation then.

    Only two more days, can't believe it!    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Happy New Year from Venice!!

    31 de dezembro de 2017, Itália ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    Today was absolutely my favorite kind of tourist day. The sun was shining in the morning and the vaporetto was not at all crowded, so we had a Grand Canal ride with great weather and great views. Then we took another across the lagoon to San Giorgi, a church designed by Palladio (the Italian architect whose name has been given to McMansion designers' favorite type of window). Amazing views from the bell tower.

    Then an hour or so walking in the main square area, and realizing how lucky we are that our hotel is not in this part of town. We are in San Stae, well located between the train station and the Rialto/San Marco area. Still lots of tourists, but nothing like the crowds closer in town.

    After a decent lunch in a little trattoria (when in tourist landia it pays to raise your budget a little and go for a white tablecloth place), we got back on the vaporetto and spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the neighborhood named Canareggio. No more than 4 tourists on any bridge we crossed! In fact there were lots of streets adjacent to canals where we saw no gondolas, no trinket shops, nothing but regular people with their laundry hanging from the line outside. We saw a couple of beautiful churches, two in particular, both named after Mary, both gothic but radically different styles. We saw Tintoretto's house, and the churches had lots of Tintoretto and Titian paintings, so even though we didn't go to any art museums today we had our fair share of art.

    Surprising factoid of the day -- We went to the first Jewish ghetto and learned that the name comes from the Italian word for forge, because the Jews here were forced to live in an area of Canareggio that was the site of an old Italian forge.

    Well, tonight is New Year's Eve. We were kind of on the fence about braving the crowds to go down to the square for fireworks, but then our hotel owner gave us his opinion about the crowds and the fact that it will take hours to walk back in the throngs. And then to top things off, we saw the weather forecast is showing possible rain. So after Joe "rests his feet" (code for "takes a short nap") we will go see if there is any food to be had in any place in our neighborhood. If not, we have a bag of clementines and a bar of chocolate, which will hold us till tomorrow if need be.

    Happy New Year to all!    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    San Marco

    30 de dezembro de 2017, Itália ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C

    Our first full day in Venice, we decided to bite the bullet and shell out the 120 euros for a vaporetto pass for the two of us. This way we can hop on and off whenever we make our way to the Grand Canal after walking around a neighborhood or visiting a church or museum. We are apparently not the only people with that idea. At 6 pm tonight, the crowds on the vaporetto were crushing -- so much for the idea that you should use a vaporetto trip as a way to enjoy the sights along the canal! I think that getting off at a stop, enjoying the views, walking around the neighborhood and having a cappuchino is the better alternative. Think of your trips on the vaporetto as a necessary evil, you are unlikely to find a way to enjoy the Grand Canal while in transit. And as I have said before, if this is off-season, what can high season possibly be like?!

    But in spite of that, it is an inescapable truth that Venice is a gorgeous city. We visited the Doge's Palace and the Cathedral today, both spectacular. And in the afternoon we walked and walked through old streets to visit the beautiful church of Santa Maria Gloriosa del Frari. Two of my favorite paintings so far were in there, one a Titian (who is also buried here) and the other a 14th century Madonna. Another great dinner, also close to our relatively untouristy neighborhood near San Stae.    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Arrived in Venice

    29 de dezembro de 2017, Itália ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    We arrived around noon on the train from Bologna and decided to take the vaporetto to our hotel instead of trying to navigate all those bridges and stone streets with the carry-ons. I think anyone who arrives in Venice for the first time must have a reaction like mine -- jaw drops and you are awestruck.

    We were lucky to snag a table near our hotel at Zucca for a delicious lunch. Joe's tagliatelle with gorgonzola, walnuts and pears was yummy. We made dinner reservations there for Jan. 2 at the only opening they had for the next week. Then we walked to San Marco to see the main square and get our bearings. It's about a 20 minute walk from our hotel and we were happy to see that even though reading a map is pointless, there are lots of signs pointing you to Rialto Bridge, San Marco, Train Station, or Piazza Roma. So with a little bit of a sense of direction it actually isn’t as hard to navigate as I thought it would be.

    Several hours walking around, and we knew we would have no trouble filling the days here. The crowds are pretty huge so I can’t imagine what high season is like. Traffic jams of gondolas in the canals!
    People shoulder to shoulder on the Rialto Bridge! But I understand why.

    I don't want to overdo it with the superlatives, so I will let the pictures speak for themselves.    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Modena Museum Moratorium

    28 de dezembro de 2017, Itália ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    We decided to have a low key strolling the streets kind of day, which we stuck to even though there were showers off and on, and the pull of the art museum with its Velazquez painting was tempting. But we decided we were pretty oversaturated with museums right now, and given that we would have many days of many museums in Venice, we opted for the outdoor approach to Modena.

    Of the day trips we have taken, Modena was probably my favorite little town. It is just beautiful in the center -- well maintained, obviously prosperous, and the Piazza Maggiore with its pure, unadulturated, un-updated, "unimproved" Romanesque cathedral is one of the most beautiful I've ever been in or enjoyed from the outside.

    The town market is one of those classics, great for walking around and seeing how lucky the townsfolk are to have this place for all sorts of beautiful looking food. And it’s also the place where balsamic vinegar got its start— we saw some little perfume size jars with prices near 100€. No, I did not buy one.

    And the food was great, the little we sampled. From Joe's cappuchino (pronounced excellent) to our plates of pasta in the Trattoria Giardinetto (mine with a creamy lemon sauce, Joe's was arrabiata, and the pastas were all made on the premises) we were very happy when we got back on the train in the late afternoon for the half hour ride back to our little apartment.

    Sent from my iPad    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Last full day in Bologna

    27 de dezembro de 2017, Itália ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    This morning we started in the Resistance Museum, a pretty somber place dealing with Italian fascism and WWII. Lots of information and pictures, with even an interesting room about Italian participation in the International Brigades in the Spanish Civil War. We were very happy to get English translations of all of the panels, even though the translation at times was not quite clear!

    Wandering through the old town, we came upon the oldest building of the University of Bologna, which itself is one of the contenders for the title "world's oldest university." Though the city now owns the building, several of the rooms are open for visitors, very nice.

    At noon, we met up with a good friend of our pal Lorraine. Irma, an African Historian at Bologna, took us to lunch at an old lively place where they still make their pasta by hand, the Osteria dell'Orsa. This was the place to eat tagliatelle with bolognese sauce, no doubt about it.

    After a walk through the university district with Irma, we went to the largest art museum in Bologna. Lots of medieval art (yay) and lots of Baroque/mannerist (boo). The rain stopped by the time we left the museum, and one more stroll through the old town looking at all the food and markets was a nice end of the afternoon. Some good dark chocolate was a special treat. We are now trying to decide on dinner, not sure whether to return to a known place we loved or to try something new. Hard choices here in Bologna!    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Day trip to Parma

    26 de dezembro de 2017, Itália ⋅ 🌫 4 °C

    Today as we walked to the Bologna Train Station, it was misty and chilly. Same when we got off the train in Parma. No sun today, but hardly any precipitation either, so we are not complaining.

    Though most people think of parma ham and parmigiano reggiano when they think of Parma, I think of a Romanesque cathedral and a Medieval Baptistry. They were just gorgeous. Well worth the trip in and of themselves. Unfortunately, Dec. 26 seems to be a semi-official holiday, and though the monuments were all open, all of the salumerias (places selling all those local goodies, like a delicatessen I suppose) were locked up tight. There are also local factories to visit, but they are all out of town and we had no means of transport. So we took our guidebook's advice and went to eat lunch at a place called Trattoria del Tribunale. Best sauteed spinach with garlic and parmesan I've ever had. Plus an eggplant parmegiana for me and a yummy veal cutlet for Joe. Definitely highly recommended if you ever get to Parma!

    After lunch we spent a couple of hours in the art and the archaeological museums —a Leonardo, some Carveggios and an El Greco. And I finally found some pilgrims to Santiago in a 14th century tryptych.

    The one hour trip to Bologna was easy.

    Many restaurants are closed on Dec. 26 in Bologna, but we were lucky and found the Osteria Broccaindiso. Joe’s tortelloni with ricotta and sage was very yummy.    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Christmas Day in Bologna

    25 de dezembro de 2017, Itália ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Our day can be summed up in three words -- walking, eating, and churches. We had a reservation in a fancy place (the menu had been vetted by our foodie friends Tina and John and they told us to go for it) for 1:30. That gave us a few hours in the morning to work up an appetite and a few hours after lunch to walk off some of our massive caloric intake. The morning walk included the Jewish Ghetto and several churches, my favorite being Sao Giacomo. Then a 3 1/2 hour pause for a very excellent lunch (probably my longest meal ever). And then more walking for more churches, where we saw a beautiful automated nativity scene in San Francesco and the church of San Dominic (where he is buried and his resting place is adorned with three Michaelangelo statues!). Walking from church to church is also a fun way to see the city. They are spread all over, in all kinds of residential districts, frequently in beautiful piazzas. Most streets in the old part of Bologna are arcaded, so even if the weather hadn't been marvelous, we wouldn't have needed any umbrellas. Rain is in the forecast at last, so we may test those arcades out!

    Christmas Day is a great day to visit churches in Bologna, as you might imagine. All seemed to be open well beyond their stated opening times. We often heard bells ringing, Christmas carols being sung, lots of candles lighted inside. Lots and lots of people out walking in the squares, but now that it's about 8 pm we are ready to call it quits on what has been an outstanding Christmas Day. Hope yours was very merry as well!    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Day trip to Ferrara

    24 de dezembro de 2017, Itália ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    Another nice sunny day with temps getting above freezing, hooray! We took a morning train to Ferrara, where the main attractions are the 14th century castle, a medieval quarter-Jewish ghetto, and a Romanesque cathedral. Lots of walking, a cappuccino or two, into dungeons, through narrow streets and big plazas, but BAM-- turning one corner to see the facade of the cathedral covered for repair. Talk about bummers. I am no stranger to cathedral facades being covered, as the one in Santiago has been covered for years. But unfortunately I won't be back in Ferrara anytime soon, unlike Santiago. Oh well, we had a great lunch to make up for it, in the Osteria del Ghetto.

    After lunch, walking up to the Renaissance quarter, we passed the Resistance Museum and went in. The woman asked where we were from and when I told her the US, I added that we needed some training in resistance right now. Lots of interesting stuff from early fights for Ferrara independence up through WWII. Some very graphic and sad.

    Now back in Bologna, the city is busy and animated, not at all like I remember Lisbon on Christmas Eve. I'm sure we will have no trouble finding a good meal, once Joe gets up from resting his sore feet.

    Merry Christmas one and all!!!    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Day in Bologna

    23 de dezembro de 2017, Itália ⋅ 🌙 3 °C

    Today was another beautiful day in Bologna. We climbed the 498 stairs to the top of the tallest of the Two Towers, with gorgeous views below. We then went to the Medieval Museum that had some amazing stuff for people who like medieval things like me (and Joe tolerates it). Then to a special exhibit of Mexican muralists -- Diego Rivera, Siqueiros, and Orozco, apparently the trinity of Mexican muralists. Great exhibit -- it had been scheduled to arrive in Santiago Chile the very day Salvador Allende was deposed, so it never was shown. Now it is making a comeback.

    After a grilled panini, boy are they wonderful here, we spent a few hours wandering around, looking at Renaissance buildings, and marveling at the beautiful historical center. On weekends, no cars are allowed in many places, so it was really wonderful. Dinner at Cesarina, in San Steffano square, near an amazing complex of churches starting in 350 AD. The food was absolutely great, this is definitely a place to recommend. The waiter recommended a San Genovese wine, and we were happy. After a post-prandial saunter around the old town, ending in the Piazza Maggiore, we were filled to the brim with good feelings. Tomorrow a day trip to Ferrara, which is a fully walled town (I'll have to compare it to Avila) will a highly touted historical center. Hoping for good weather and good food, which seems to be the norm so far!    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Mosaics everywhere in Ravenna

    22 de dezembro de 2017, Itália ⋅ 🌙 4 °C

    About an hour by train from Bologna, Ravenna has more churches in its historic core than I think I have ever seen. We concentrated on the early Christian ones (4th- 6th centuries) though there were lots of medieval and neoclassical as well. I don’t think I saw any gothic, though. The mosaics are the prime attraction — hard to believe they’re from the 4th and 5th century Some beautiful scenes with maidens and martyrs going to pay homage, lots of bible stories, and some emperors and empresses thrown in for good measure.

    We had a good lunch in a recommended place, sharing a risotto and a pizza but leaving more than half of it untouched. I just can’t get used to eating a big meal at noon. One of my favorites of the day was the moving nativity scene in the cathedral. Women drawing water, weaving, spinning; men shoeing horses, at a forge— obviously made with a lot of love.

    We didn’t feel like a big meal, so we went to the market area and had a meat and cheese plate. Very very good.

    Tomorrow we will explore Bologna. Museums and churches, our daily ritual.    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Arrived in Bologna

    21 de dezembro de 2017, Itália ⋅ 🌙 0 °C

    Took a fast train to Bologna and we were checked into out apartment by 2. We spent the afternoon getting our bearings and doing some grocery shopping — not that we plan to cook much! What a beautiful city. We are right in the center of the old town and every direction you walk you see something beautiful. Heading out for an early dinner because we are taking an early-ish train to Ravenna for the day.Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Great dinner

    20 de dezembro de 2017, Itália ⋅ 🌙 -1 °C

    Just to say that Il Tavolino was our favorite restaurant in Milan. Although it seemed that all the English speaking customers got put off in the same room (coincidence maybe?) we had a delicious dinner. Sitting next to three US businessmen who drank four bottles of what must have been a very expensive wine since the waiter had to climb a ladder to the highest level to retrieve each bottle. We were very happy with our much more modest choice of red. Off to Bologna tomorrow!Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Mostly churches and one more art museum

    20 de dezembro de 2017, Itália ⋅ 🌙 0 °C

    Another chilly, ok cold, day. But sunny all day till the sun set. I won’t bore you with the details of the 4th century San Lorenzo and the Romanesque Sant Ambrogio churches, but one had 16 roman columns at the entrance and the other some beautiful mosaics, columns, and capitals. A ten minute ride on the excellent and cheap Milan metro took us to the Modern Art museum, located in a gorgeous old mansion/palace with lovely park grounds. By modern they don’t mean anything beyond Picssso, so nothing too intellectually challenging, and the rooms and collections were really nice. Turns out there is a very trendy and good restaurant next store (Lubar) and we had a great lunch.

    Then back on the metro for our fifteen minutes’ viewing of The Last Supper. With 28 other people who reserved their viewing spot months and months ahead of time. Very nice way to end the touring day, even though it felt like you were going through decompression chambers as you inched closer to the prize.    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Museums and Palaces

    19 de dezembro de 2017, Itália ⋅ 🌙 0 °C

    Today was quite a wonderful day. Weather was cold but sunny and we did a lot of walking. One gorgeous art museum, one 15th century castle and a lot of detours down pretty residential streets made for a full day. Highlights of the museums --!a 12th century holy water bucket, some Romanesque capitals, a Picasso painting and the pieta Michelangelo was carving when he died.

    On the way back to the hotel around 5 pm, we passed a fitness center about 3 minutes from the hotel. Since Joe was going to rest anyway, I decided to go work out on the elliptical. 15€ is quite a steep charge, but it's worth it. I am addicted, let's face it. But it was a much better workout than yesterday, when I walked up and down four flights of stairs in the hotel for an hour.

    We had dinner tonight in a lovely Osteria called Fara. Close to the hotel. Great ambiente and top notch pizza in a wood oven. One more day in Milan. Love to you all.    Leia mais

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy --2017Laurie Reynolds

    Cold, sunny, and Christmas-y

    18 de dezembro de 2017, Itália ⋅ 🌙 0 °C

    I guess American Airlines figures that when they are taking you to Italy, they can serve you the worst food imaginable and it won't dampen your spirits. I've had a lot of bad meals on a plane, but last night's gets the prize. Oh well, the flight was fine and we had a great view of snow-capped mountains (Dolomites, I think?) and arrived right on time.

    Our hotel is very close to the main train station and we were there by 10. No rooms ready so we checked our bags and headed out for the cathedral. Wow. We spent most of the day in the area, which is very festive and got us in the holiday spirit. Cappucinos and pastries in late afternoon didn't hurt either.

    Joe took a short afternoon nap while I powered through-- which is why I'm wilting fast. Mama Rosa was the osteria recommended to us and we chowed down on fabulous bruschetta, grilled vegetables, carbonara and see bass.

    It's only our first day, but so far I really like Milan. The people who say it's ugly must be the same people who say Madrid is ugly. Not in my book! Can't wait to sleep, which is what I'm going to do right now!    Leia mais

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