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Galicia
  • Nathaniel Stott
  • Anne Archambault
  • Nathaniel Stott
  • Anne Archambault

Galicia

Walking the Camino do Mar and the Camino Dos Faros. En savoir plus
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  • Début du voyage
    28 avril 2025
    Galicia

    Madrid - Country wide power outage

    28 avril 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    It was certainly an interesting first day of travel. Our checked bag didn’t make it to Madrid so we were out getting supplies when the power went out. We quickly realized it wasn’t just the store, or the block, we were on. After a while we got word that the outage was across the whole country. Then we heard it might also be impacting Portugal, France, and Italy.

    It was a little worrying because it was very unclear how long the power would be out, but we assumed it would impact our subsequent travel plans.

    Today the power is back on and there’s good coverage of the cause at the New York Times: https://www.nytimes.com/2025/04/28/world/europe…

     We’re still trying to figure out how to get to Galicia to start our hike, our train was cancelled and buses are fully booked. Fortunately, we’re staying at a friends condo in Madrid and can crash there as long as needed to figure it out.    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Ceviche and Pisco Sours

    29 avril 2025, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Proper dinner tonight in Madrid because the power is back on! There’s an amazing market next door to the flat we’re staying in that has a bunch of food options, mostly South American inspired.

    So tonight we ate ceviche and had pisco sours to enjoy the evening and send us off right for our journey tomorrow.    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    On the bus to Ribadeo

    30 avril 2025, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Up at 4:30 this morning to catch a bus to Ribadeo. It’s a much slower way to go than the train we had booked yesterday, but it was available and gets us mostly back on track for our walk.

    This picture was taken in León, one of the stops along the way. All in all, it was a nice bus. There was WiFi and seat back entertainment.

    Since we left before sunrise we got to watch the sun come up over the rolling hills north of Madrid. The scenery along the way was very varied, rolling hills, flat farmlands, and impressive mountains.

    We changed buses in Oviedo, where we grabbed a quick bit to eat. Oviedo was a nice looking town with artistic architecture and creative green spaces; a place I’d like to come back and visit.    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Ribadeo

    30 avril 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    A quick walk around Ribadeo to get a Camino credential stamp and head to the train station. It’s a nice little town, I wish we had more time to explore!

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  • Galicia

    Camino Do Mar - Stage 1

    1 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Rain last night turned to clear skies this morning and we set out before dawn to make up a day of walking. And what a first day of walking it was!

    The temperatures were perfect, the skies were laced with beautiful clouds, and the coastline is spectacular.

    We treated ourselves with coffee and cookies in Ribadeo before taking the narrow gauge train back to our accommodation. We took this train last night also, and the train station is literally in a field. It’s the strangest train station I’ve ever been to. But it’s just a 10 minute walk to where we’re staying so it’s very convenient.    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Playa de las Catedrales

    1 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We got up super early and hiked the first stage of our walk so we could get back early enough to catch low tide at Playa de las Catedrales, one of the most famous beaches in Spain. This beach is know for the rock formations that look like the flying buttresses found in gothic cathedrals, hence the name.

    Per Wikipedia:

    “The characteristic features of the beach are its natural arches and caves, which can be seen only at low tide. During high tide, the beach appears small, but still suitable for swimming. During low tide the size of its cliffs and sea caves is more apparent, ranging from small cracks on the rock to big caves whose roofs have collapsed due to the erosion of the waves.

    At low tide, there is access to a sand deposit delimited by a rocky wall made from slate and schist forming 30 meters arches resembling cathedral flying buttresses, large caves, sand corridors between rocky blocks, and other geological features. Particularly low tides create access to nearby beaches through the sand extension. As the coast stretch is almost horizontal, the water covers the beach again very quickly.”

    In the summer the beach is so busy you need to buy tickets in advance. We’re in the shoulder season so access was unrestricted. Never the less it was super busy (today is Labour Day holiday in Spain). So I got some pictures to try and contrast what you might see on Instagram (helped with AI photo manipulation) versus reality.    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Camino Do Mar - Stage 2

    2 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Low and overcast today with temperamental seas made for a nice, if somewhat threatened, walk along the coast.

    The first part of the day was on a boardwalk that followed the ocean, providing a nice vantage of the ocean, cliffs, and beaches. The temperatures were cool but pleasant, making the hike in just a merino hoodie perfect. We’d hoped to stop for coffee along the way but were fooled twice by incorrect hours listed on Google maps, likely due to the fact that we’re walking in shoulder season when there are considerably fewer tourists. I’m not sure how crazy it gets here in the summer but there’s certainly a “tourists go home” vibe from the locals that’s also ensconced in the graffiti.

    The second half of the day had us divert inland so we could get to a bridge that would allow us to cross the estuary created by the Foz River. Beach turned to eucalyptus forests and pleasant hiking for several kilometers before joining the highway, crossing the bridge, and then diverting back into backroads and dirt pathways.

    Virgin feet are making themselves known. Anne has some soreness due to the wet start yesterday and I have a couple small blisters that showed up today. Hopefully all will be better tomorrow for the walk to Burela.    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Camino Do Mar - Stage 3

    3 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We woke up to clear skies in Foz and got a relatively early start to beat rain that’s forecast for mid afternoon. Anne had scoped out a coffee/pastry shop around the corner from our apartment so we loaded up on caffeine and goodies and made our way out of town on a beautiful path by the sea.

    And that pretty much sums up the walking today, well maintained and paved pathways by the ocean. Not a bad day.

    The trip was a little slower and more gingerly than normal; I have blisters on both my pinkie toes that I got yesterday, which means slowing things down and taking lots of breaks. Annoying for sure, but fortunately not very painful (hopefully it stays that way).

    Thankfully a short day tomorrow that will help the healing process but we also have rain in the forecast for the next two days, which could cause problems. We’ll see. For now we’re chilling in our hotel room looking over the Bay of Biscay, and that’s pretty epic.    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Camino Do Mar - Stage 4

    4 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    An easy day today with a walk just over 6 miles. That was perfect because it’s helping us both get our feet in shape for tomorrow, which will be a bit over 20 miles.

    It’s Mother’s Day Sunday here in Spain, but we found an open bakery to grab coffee and pastries and started our walk under overcast skies and some light mist that quickly abated. As with the previous day, the path out of town was a well paved path by the ocean. In fact, most of the walk had good views and a nice trail with only one section heading slightly inland and down a grassy but mostly dry trail.

    We ended the day in San Cibrao, a small fishing town. A part of the town sits on a small peninsula that has a lighthouse and harbor. It’s quaint, picturesque, and feels very Galician.

    Fun fact, apparently they put the statue of the mermaid on trial each year. She’s always found guilty, then pardoned. After which the town parties the night away on the beach.

    Our apartment is right on the main square and overlooks the beach and the ocean. As I write this post on our couch I’m looking and listening to waves (see the last photo for the view I’m looking at).    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Camino Do Mar - Stage 5

    5 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today we walked from San Cibrao to Viveiro. Honestly, this walk had scared us a little. We’re getting over some foot issues, the forecast was rain, there’s a decent amount of elevation gain, but the headline was that it was a 20 mile day. And let’s be frank, 20 miles in driving rain isn’t really anyone’s idea of a good time.

    But that’s not what happened. After some light rain in the first several miles (a bypass around the Alcoa Aluminum plant) we reached the coastal path, the rain stopped, and we had windy but otherwise glorious walking. When the sun came out at lunch it was almost too hot! And the distance didn’t turn out to be a problem with our feet either.

    We’re staying two nights in Viveiro, it’s a good time for a rest day and various folks recommended we take it here, so we’re going to enjoy food and libations tonight and explore the town tomorrow.    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Viveiro

    6 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today was a zero day so we woke up late, enjoyed a lazy coffee, and explored town. The highlight of the day was certainly coffee at Latitud Doce, where, in addition to great coffee we were treated to a wax stamp in our pilgrim passport.

    The town is small and the standout feature are the glass balconies adorning many of the buildings. It also appears that they take the Semana Santa holiday super seriously here, with an exhibition and movie style posters for each year.

    Back to the trail tomorrow!    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Camino Do Mar - Stage 6

    7 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    We awoke to beautiful blue skies this morning, had coffee and breakfast, grabbed a fresh baguette from a local bakery, and set out from Viveiro.

    We exited town along the beach promenade, through Covas, and then uphill along various two tracks and trails through the countryside. Interspersed during the walk were wide white sandy beaches flanked by steep cliffs.

    The highlight of the day was Mirador das Laxes, looking out over Coelleira Island and its lighthouse. There are archeological records of a monastery on this island dating back to 1095. Today the lighthouse is still in operation, though it’s completely automated.

    We rounded the point and headed for O Vicedo, passing the picturesque Playa de Caolín (home to a real “boat” house) and passed at least two more secluded but beautiful small beaches tucked in cliffs coves.

    A great day walking!    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Camino do Mar - Stage 7

    8 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    An incredible day of walking along the coast today. We left O Vicedo around 9am under sunny skies, perfect temperatures, and calm breezes, rounding the southern tip of the bay and crossing the Sor River before a quick coffee in O Barqueiro and then cutting directly across the Bares peninsula to Playa de Esteiro, which is where the fun started.

    A short climb gained the hillside over the ocean and opened up expansive views of the ocean and cliffs. This section of coast is notable for the “most beautiful bench in the world” and the trail is dotted with benches and picnic tables, each with some of the best views I’ve seen. So much so that I just started taking pictures of all of them. The actual most beautiful bench was, indeed, pretty glorious.

    Tonight we’re in O Porto de Espasante. There are a lot of fancy apartment buildings here, which must make town a hub of excitement in the summer. Today it feels small and sleepy, which is just perfect for us.    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Camino do Mar - Stage 8

    9 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    A big day today as we made our way around a large bay/estuary separating O Porto de Espasante from Cariño. Unfortunately, there isn’t a lot that’s notable about this stage in terms of walking or scenery. It was pretty much 18 miles of road walking.

    Fortunately, while the forecast was for rain today, we experienced none. That made the day much better than it would have otherwise been, because a wet long day is always worse than a dry one.

    And there was an ostrich, which was just fun. I don’t recall even being that close to an ostrich, and this one seemed both tame and curious. But all the same I was careful not to get too close because I didn’t want to get cracked on the head with that huge beak.

    Some other notable sights along the walk:

    Granaries: Most farms have elevated granaries that are supported by two or three pillars and have wide slate rocks to prevent mice or other animals from climbing up. We saw a particularly nice one today.

    Wash basins: Increasingly we’re seeing old washing basins where small villages would do laundry. Some still have flowing water because there are built into the water course.

    San Adrian School: I found this particularly interesting because there are separate entrances for boys and girls.    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Camino do Mar - Stage 9

    10 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    What felt like a short stage this morning turned out to be a little longer than expected. Rain in the forecast held off for a bit as we left Cariño but a misty light rain started falling about 45 minutes into the walk and continued on and off most of the day.

    Our first stop was a detour of about a mile to the Faro do Cabo Ortegal. This lighthouse sits atop magnificent cliffs and a commanding 270 degree view of the ocean. A small group of wild goats seem to call this place home.

    Afterward, a long and mostly gradual climb back south along the peninsula, eventually climbing into the clouds, which made for challenging walking along the narrow, but infrequently traveled road. Windmills lined the crest of the ridge, coming in and out of view in the heavy fog and making an omnipresent low din like something out of a Star Wars film (per Anne).

    Another detour to the Garita de Herbeira, the highest point on the peninsula at 2005’, before descending down to San Andrés de Teixido, or stop for the night. We checked in and headed out to grab a well deserved lunch and look around the tiny town that’s built mostly around the Santuario de Santo André de Teixido.

    The legend of the chapel has it that San Andrés was sad because his temple had very little devotion compared to that of Santiago that was overflowing with pilgrims, so he asked the Lord for help. One day the Almighty appeared to him in the company of St. Peter and promised San Andrés that all mortals would come to his temple, and those who did not do so alive would do so after his death reincarnated as an animal. Hence, this chapel is now a popular pilgrimage (at least in Galicia).    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Camino do Mar - Stage 10

    11 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A short stage today from San Andrés de Teixido to Cedeira. We woke this morning to rain. Driving rain that was coming down at 45 degrees. So we took our time with the excellent breakfast at Casa Rural San Andrés de Teixido and waited for a break in the weather before leaving. It was the perfect choice. We had a tiny bit of rain as we left town but stayed dry the rest of the day! Suffice it to say, we’ve been incredibly lucky.

    The trail went up out of town on the GR55. A rocky and somewhat mucky trail that looked more like a horse trail than a GR. It climbed steeply up to Miradoiro Chao do Monte before veering off across a field of gorse, a beautiful looking plant at a distance with yellow flowers, but is thorny and spiteful when you get close.

    The trail followed the contours of the ridgeline, high over the ocean but with very few good observation points. We chose to deviate from the official path and down to Cedeira via a series of backroads rather than do the full circumnavigation of the peninsula because it was already late (due to our late start) and the path was narrow, wet, prickly, and was reported to have sparse views.

    It’s Sunday, so everything is closed in town tonight. Which means we’re eating gas station gourmet pizza for dinner! Fine food and wine to end the day 😉    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Camino do Mar - Stage 11

    12 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Rain! After dodging the rain successfully for so many days we finally had a solid morning of it. However, we also managed to find covered bus stops during the worst of downpours so we didn’t get terribly soaked.

    The morning started with road walking along a fairly busy section of highway that wasn’t enjoyable at all, but afforded some interesting sights like a boat somehow moored in a river it didn’t seem it could possible escape.

    Thankfully, the clouds parted and the path veered away from the highway, down to Praia de Pantín where we ate lunch at a granite bench under blue skies overlooking a half mile strand of beautiful beach. Fun fact, Praia de Pantín is a great surf beach and home to the World Surf League Pantín Classic each November.

    After lunch we contoured up and around the peninsula overlooking the cliffs of the coast under sunny blue skies with puffy, photogenic clouds. Off in the distance we could see Faro de Punta Frouxeira and Cabo Prior.

    Compared to the morning, this section of road walking was glorious, showing just what a difference it makes to be where traffic isn’t.

    The path dropped us into Valdoviño where we walked along the waterfront on a nice esplanade before taking a wooded path along Lagoa Da Frouxeira and finally another short section of highway walking.

    The second half of the day was great, making the rainy morning melt away in the mind and reminding me that it’s only takes a couple minutes to completely change the entire frame of the day.    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Camino do Mar - Stage 12

    13 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Despite this being a coastal walk with many beautiful beaches, we haven’t really had any stages take us to the beach. But today we had short beach walks at both the start and the end of the day!

    The weather today was typically Galician with rain and sun mixed through the day. We obviously pay attention to the weather forecast, but the weather changes fast here. This morning it was raining when we left breakfast but sunny when we left 10 minutes later. Go figure.

    A walk inland from our hotel took us to a beautiful and long sandy beach called Praia de Prados. The lighthouse here, Faro de Punta Frouxeira, looks like a modern architecture project.

    From there, our path took us inland to Lavacerido where we had coffee before climbing up to the Ruínas das Baterías de Montefaro. The ruins of the anti-aircraft batteries are quite spectacular. One tunnel I ventured into was in great condition, though the rooms inside had smashed tiling and rusted piping. Still, an incredible glimpse into a previous century.

    Our path continued along the coast on well maintained dirt roads, mostly at the top of steep hillsides with the sound of waves crashing below.

    Finally nearing Covas, we dropped down to Praia de Ponzos, walked along the beach and then made our way along dirt roads to our accommodation for the night.

    Another beautiful day of walking!    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Camino do Mar - Stage 13

    14 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We awoke to blue skies this morning and got an early start on a longish day to Ferrol. There were several alternative paths we could take to shorten the route, but with beautiful weather and a rest day tomorrow, we went for the long route contouring the coast. And while I don’t regret that decision, the ratio of scenery to meh was not as high as the GPS route suggested. Still, a meh day walking in sunny weather is better than any day in the office!

    We got right to business, dropping down to the beach for a 2k walk on Praia de San Xurxo. However, there was a creek crossing right at the start and despite our strongest desires, we soaked our shoes and socks. Not an awesome start. Of course, we were greeted with another stream crossing on the other side where we removed shoes and socks, walked up the stairs, and took a break to let things dry in the sun. 20 minutes later, we were ready to start again.

    The path climbed steeply up and wound drunkenly through some neck tall gorse before reaching Poste SE de la Milla (elevation 99m) where we found a better trail that opened into views of the ocean across to A Coruña. Beautiful walking down to the boardwalk at Praia de Doniños (where locals made their position on Gaza very clear) and climbed back out at the other end of the beach only to drop again to round Lagoa de Doniños and then climb up again on small roads into eucalyptus forests.

    The final section dropped back down near the port and wound its way back into Ferrol. We’d been looking for a bench to eat at when we heard bagpipes in the distance. As we got closer, we saw a man practicing at a picnic spot so we stopped, hoping for a lunch of cheese and crackers to the sound of bagpipes. Unfortunately, it wasn’t to be. The man promptly packed up and left, and we both felt bad for blowing up his practice session (but not too bad because the next bench was almost 40 minutes further on).

    Ferrol opened before us, with the forts of Castelo de San Filipe and Castle of La Palma standing guard below us. Alas, even with the city in sight we still had miles of walking. The trail circumnavigates the bay and port of Ferrol, winding the long, long way round before landing in town.

    So after a long day I can say that I wouldn’t have wanted to miss today, but I wouldn’t walk it again. And we’re both extremely excited for a rest day!    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Ferrol

    15 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We had a rest day today in Ferrol, which allowed us to sleep in, do laundry, and most importantly just have a fun tourist day in a nice city.

    This town is all about the port, specifically ship building. It’s also an important naval base and much of the waterfront is naval docks, shipwright facilities, and a naval training academy. There’s a great, free, museum documenting the evolution of the Spanish navy, and a great naval engineering museum. So I got to geek out on both history and engineering today.

    Ferrol also has some cool architecture. We spent a part of the morning on a walking tour of modernist buildings, mostly from architect Rodolfo Ucha Piñeiro.

    And like most larger cities, there was also a great collection of graffiti art around the city. In particular, Gus the Pug seems to be pervasive.

    Our apartment is next door to a bagpipe club, so each evening we’re serenaded to the sounds of piping and drumming. That might sound horrible but it’s incredibly cool and has me wanting to learn to pipe.

    Back on the trail tomorrow. Ferrol is the end of the Camino do Mar, tomorrow we’ll be on the Camino Inglés so we expect to see a bunch more people. After that we go freestyle on a coastal linkup to the Camino dos Faros.    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    A day on the Camino Inglés - Stage 14

    16 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today was a bit of walking culture shock.

    After a rest day in Ferrol our path west along the coast joined with the first stage of the Camino Inglés. Compared to what we’ve been hiking, the trail is very well marked and there are a lot more accommodations for walkers. And there were walkers.

    Since we left Ribadeo we haven’t met a single hiker. We’ve had a couple glimpses of folks in the distance, but we’d never see those people again in town. Today we must have crossed paths with at least two to three dozen. So it’s a different experience entirely. Anne has talked about this before, the people are the reason you walk the Camino, so it’s a cool change in vibe even if it is jarring.

    However, it’s going to be short lived. Tomorrow we start making our own path as we head west to Sada.    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    The Camino Linkup - Stage 15

    17 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Today’s the day we start making our own “Camino Linkup” between the Camino do Mar and the Camino dos Faros. After a day and a half on the Camino Inglés, we broke west crossing the Rio Lambre and headed to Sada.

    We started early this morning, walking up at 6 because it was forecast to be hot today. An early start meant Nespresso coffee, which is great for caffeine but isn’t a good stand-in for a latte.

    The trail climbed steeply out of town, before dropping again and passing through rolling forest along a nice dirt path. Slightly before Miño, we stopped into Tetería peregrino, an open cafe with a charming owner to get real coffee and take a break.

    After Miño, we crossed the Ponte da Ponte do Porco and parted ways with the Camino Inglés. Almost immediately we crossed paths with a man walking his dog who let us know we were off route. We tried to inform him we were doing a different thing, walking to Sada, on the A Coruña, then Malpica and the Camino dos Faros but were pretty sure he thought we were nuts.

    Either way, we continued our walk, crossing the Pedrido Bridge and roundly rounding north to Sada after walking along the boardwalk at Playa Gandario.

    Turns out, Sada is a little larger than we expected. And it’s certainly busier. Today is a holiday here, Galician Literature Day, and e expected everything to be closed. But restaurants are open and it feels like a holiday vibe. Tonight there will be music and singing at the Casa da cultura de Sada and there’s a tent set up for a rock band called Touliña Pop. Also, excellent pulpo for dinner!

    Relatively few pictures today, it wasn’t particularly scenic in a photographic way. We’re hoping that’s an exception and not the norm as we work along the coast to Malpica.    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia
    Yes, I'm on the trail.

    The Camino Linkup - Stage 16

    18 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ 🌩️ 17 °C

    Day 2 on the linkup and it was a tale of two trails. The first trail was angry, the second one was happy. Let’s break it down…

    We left Sada early because it was a reasonably long day, the forecast was for afternoon thunderstorms, and it was supposed to be hot. As we exited town, we stopped at a cafe for coffee before climbing out of town and joining the Roteiro Mariñán Costa Doce, which follows the coast. Pavement turned to a dirt two track and led into eucalyptus forest with peekaboo views to mussel beds and even some dolphins!

    After a short deviation to a road, the trail became more fully overgrown, at times almost invisible due to the ferns. We made painfully slow progress as we bushwhacked through long sections of overgrown and sometimes prickly vegetation. The trail also seemed to drunkenly meander steeply up and down the hillside, in one spot losing about 40 feet of elevation only to make a hairpin turn and climb right back up. At long last we popped out to a road at Praia de San Pedro, thankful to be back on pavement.

    Quick progress was made to Lorbé, along the way passing a large group of hikers and some mountain bikers. We could see rain was coming from the radar and ducked under cover when it caught us in Lorbé. 10 minutes later there was blue sky above us and we headed due north towards Punta Torrella then directly west along a road that merged with the Ruta do Porto de Dexo.

    From here the views opened up providing great views of the ocean and cliffs. Truly some incredible walking all the way to Seixo Branco, with a particular callout to Praia de Dexo and its incredibly blue water nestled in a deep cove.

    The final stretch to Porto de Santa Cruz was road walking through what feel like wealthy suburbs of A Coruña.

    So there you have it, a tale of two trails.    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia
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    The Camino Linkup - Stage 17

    19 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    How do you turn a six mile day into a ten mile day? Walk around town a bunch while you’re waiting for the apartment to be ready.

    Mostly urban walking today from Porto de Santa Cruz to A Coruña. A Coruña is a little bigger than probably both Anne and I thought it was, and the downtown core is pretty nice.

    On the way into town we stopped for coffee at Conuco Coffee Roasters, which was absolutely the best coffee we’ve had in Galicia. And bonus points for the pilgrim passport stamp!

    A Coruña is known as the glass city for the galerias that line the street. It’s a popular modernist style in Galicia and I’ve posted pictures of them from both Viveiro and Ferrol. They’re great at providing a light, airy balcony while still being reasonable with the moody and cool Galician weather.

    But the galerias here along Avenida Marina are next level. One web page I looked at said that when the sun strikes the street at the right angle it’s blinding and I believe it!

    We’re both looking forward to a rest day tomorrow but there’s a lot to see in town so it’s going to be busy!    En savoir plus

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  • Galicia

    Around A Coruña

    20 mai 2025, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    A full day walking around the peninsula in A Coruña with a particular focus on the Tower of Hercules.

    A Coruña is turning out to be a fun place for a rest day. The city has a more youthful energy than many of the towns we’ve been in, there are a handful of good coffee shops, a budding foodie scene with Michelin rated restaurants, and beautiful ocean scenery. The scuba diving looks like it might also be good.

    A Coruña has been an important city since Roman times. The location at the western edge on the known world (at the time) gave it significant naval value and it was an important link to Roman efforts in France and Britain.

    The Tower of Hercules is the oldest known Roman era lighthouse, second tallest in Spain, and was originally built based on designs of the lighthouse of Alexandria. It’s supposedly built on the site where Hercules slew the giant Geryon and buried his head.

    The path around the peninsula has other artistic works.

    A statue of Breogán, of Irish lore, ancestor of the Gaels, who founded Brigantia (present day A Coruña) and from whence Ireland was settled.

    Also notable were the Menhirs for Peace, a work by Manolo Paz inviting visitors to look through the square holes in the rocks and reflect on family and future.

    Finally, the path is just a beautiful place to recreate, with walking paths, bike lanes, and in some places a dedicated running lane. All up, it was a little over 9 miles walking around A Coruña and enjoying the beautiful sights of this fine Galician city.    En savoir plus

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