Intermission

Today we begin the long long journey home. These past five and a half months have been the trip of a lifetime. I feel so lucky to have been able to do this and equally lucky to have so many friendsBaca selengkapnya
Today we begin the long long journey home. These past five and a half months have been the trip of a lifetime. I feel so lucky to have been able to do this and equally lucky to have so many friends and family that we are excited to see.
No more heavy backpacks to carry, no more googling whether or not I can flush toilet paper, no more hitchhiking in the bed of pickup trucks racing down pothole-filled dirt roads. Yet, I will greatly miss it all too.
We have had so many amazing experiences, some of the incredible people we have met along the way and amazing friends and family who came out and visited us. I love sharing these experiences. Though it is more of an interlude, since in the great words of Arnold Schwarzenegger, we'll be back, specifically, August 14th:). But, until that time, we're coming home. 🇺🇸Baca selengkapnya
We arrived in Kotor for a couple of nights on our way to Budva, for additional three nights, kind of our final stop for unintended interregnum. We have had some tenant issues back home that need resolving, forcing us to head home until closer to our Mont Blanc hike, sigh. In the great words of Arnold Schwarzenegger, we’ll be back.
Kotor, and Budva, are the land of cats. Yes that’s right. Cats are somewhat worshipped here similar to cows in India, since they are considered to be the town’s savior during the black plague, when they would go around eating all of the rats that were spreading the disease. You will find cats adorned on all sorts of souvenir gifts and artwork. Locals go around making sure all the street cats are well fed making them come across more as community pets than stray cats.
Kotor’s city walls are a UNESCO World Heritage Site which were constructed back in the 6th century. In a time of never ending invasion, have times really changed, one would be hard pressed to find a port city that is not also a fortress. These fortress walls run straight up an incredibly steep hill/mountain. Insane they were able to build it.
Kotor has the typical Old Town within the city walls, as we have seen numerous times, Budva too. Like other similar cities, Split, Dubrovnik, Kotor and Budva, it is quite pretty and nice to walk around, but having had this amazing opportunity to travel so much, there is a rinse, repeat quality to these areas.
We decided to spend the day sea kayaking Kotor Bay. Started out pretty windy but did calm down later in the afternoon. Once again, managed to avoid getting swallowed whole by Jaws and paddled out to a nice beach where we relaxed for a good long time. At night, Kotor’s fortress gets lit up at night and the walls meandering across the hillside, creates a heart in the waters of the bay, pretty cool.
Budva is basically a chill beach town. Nice. We hiked all day yesterday since they have a hike (9km one way) that connects all seven beaches. Absolutely lovely walk. We would occasionally stop along the way, for Stacy to swim, for us to get ice cream, to eat… and just made a day of it.
Towards the end of the day, we happened upon a local volleyball game where they were borderline professional athletes. It was fun to sit with the locals and be a spectator. Budva is a great place to chill and do recommend both cities. Tomorrow it’s on to Tirana, Albania to spend a short afternoon before going to the airport for our long flight home. I’ll try to write one more Penguin after Tirana.Baca selengkapnya
Dubrovnik, another in a long string of gorgeous Croatian port cities. We bused from Split and couldn’t help but notice how many of these cute little towns dot their coastline. If they had good bike lanes, I think Croatia would be fantastic for a long bike packing trip. Dubrovnik is most known for its “city walls”. Okay, that’s not true, it’s actually most famous for this being where Game of Thrones was filmed 😂.
The city walls took approximately 400 years to build (between 13th and 17th century) and make up what is currently called Old Town. We paid an extravagant fee to walk on top of the walls, which completely encircles the city. There were a couple of worthwhile museums along the way and does indeed offer great sea views (guess it wouldn’t be a good fort if it didn’t:).
Much like Split, where the city grew up and out from Diocletian’s Palace, so it is the same with the city walls of Dubrovnik. Must say that I do love how Europeans use space, what was old will become new again. Visited the Red History Museum, which follows Croatia’s history with communism.
Croatia became a satellite state of the USSR after the Russian Revolution of 1917 and only became a liberal democracy in 1990. One of our tour guides said that it can still be a sensitive subject and the country is still quite divided as to whether they should go back to communism or continue to be a liberal democracy.
When will people learn? Unfortunately, never. I think this subject akin to people wanting to abolish racism, they should, but both fights will have to never endingly be waged since both subjects will always get exploited for political advantage.
Schengen is a calling and must make our way to Montenegro tomorrow. I have enjoyed both Slovenia and Croatia way more than I might have imagined. Croatians are kind and generous. We are yet to stay anywhere that doesn’t provide a “gift”. Often a beer or a sweet is given on the house, just a little something to make you feel special and welcome. Indeed I do, thanks Croatia.Baca selengkapnya
Split sits along the Dalmatian coast, which is also where the famous fire engine dog, the Dalmatian, gets its name, which is for the spots of islands that dot its coast much like they do the dog itself. Cute dogs aside, the Dalmatian coast is quite beautiful.
There is a promenade with endless restaurants and shops, rocky beaches filled to the brim with tourists laying out like beached whales, minus all the blubber:), and the Marjan Forest Park all centrally located. We hiked the Marjan Forest Park to the Croatian flag which provides a great overview of the city and sunset.
Along the main promenade sits Diocletian’s Palace, which was built by Roman Emporor as a retirement home in 4th century AD. Slowly but surely the city built up and around this palace/fortress allowing you to walk around it and still see a 3200 year old sphinx adjacent to the main city square and bustling shops.
Random interesting Croatian fact, 90% of Croatians own an apartment and there are no property taxes. Can’t think of another country with 90% rate of home ownership. Some of this is due Croatia’s history of socialism and from the money that tourism brings in.
We took a boat to the nearby island of Hvar. Apparently this island is popular for the rich and famous but don’t think I would recognize a celebrity if they were sitting next to me 🤷♂️. The island has crystal clear waters, but was too windy for any kayaking or stand up paddle boarding. It was wonderful to spend a day relaxing and drinking way too many coffees, okay, maybe that’s not a thing. We have one final day before it is off to Dubrovnik.Baca selengkapnya
This makes for our third consecutive day of visiting an astonishing national park. Plitvice is a must see, even if you aren’t that close:) It very much reminded me of a smaller scale version of Iguaza Falls with waterfalls as far as the eye can see. Similarly, it is also set in what feels like a tropical forest. How this area got created leaves much to the imagination, but any single one of these waterfalls would be a destination in and of itself, let alone hundreds in one concentrated area.
We did about an 8 kilometer walk (there’s a lot more than that to walk) throughout the park and took a boat ride too. They built a network of boardwalks back in the late 1880’s and because of flooding have to replace 2 kilometers worth every year. The area is rightfully mobbed with people. The waters look like something out of the Caribbean Sea, crystal clear blue with the never ending moss-filled hillsides with waterfall after waterfall (waterfalls are called slaps, which we had some fun with). Absolutely mesmerizing and a must for all to go and experience.Baca selengkapnya
We stayed a few nights in Bled, which is a picturesque mountain town with an equally beautiful lake with a trail that wraps around all 3.6 kilometers of it. One of the days we hiked the seven lakes trail, where you gain a total of 1100 meters and of course see 7 lakes. I don’t think Europeans have heard of switchbacks and neither had S America for that matter, so maybe it’s a an American thing.
Either way this hike was straight to the point. I felt like I was climbing a double black diamond ski trail for almost 4 consecutive hours, oh forgot to say it was a long hike (total of 8 hours of hiking). But, once we finally got high enough and stepped into a clearing, we could see the Julian Alps in all their majesty. Blown away impressive. The hike finishes at a lodge/hut where you can order food and drink and take in the scene and the alpine lake. Gorgeous.
We are on our way down to Split, Croatia and stopped at the Skocjan Caves, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We almost didn’t stop since all three of us have been to numerous caves before, but thank God we did since it was out of this world amazing.
You’re not allowed to take photos which we honored, though as you would guess most did not, which is too bad because it was one of those places that are so beautiful that you would wind up taking the same photo over and over. It’s guided tours only and a two kilometer hike. One of the chambers was so large that it seemed as if you could’ve fit the basilica in there.
Stalactites were everywhere creating what appeared to be the teeth of fictitious creature, as if the cave was about to come to life. The dramatic height of the caves (30 meters high and 150 meters across) made me feel like I was in the Disney movie Journey to the Center of the Earth.
There is a 45 meters high bridge to cross that thankfully was not a suspension bridge, trying to quit those after Patagonia:), where it would lead to a staircase that descends to the Reka River. The Reka River runs underneath the mountain, crazy town, and starts in Croatia, goes through Slovenia and into Italy. Who knew rivers run underneath mountains.
It’s impossible to capture its full grandeur, even if pictures were allowed. We hiked an area on the way back to the car, took the long way, that should’ve been required by all, where the trail cuts in and out of another cave (where you will see pictures). Incredible, magnificent and any other superlatives one would want to add.Baca selengkapnya
Had a chance to have a day in Pula. We are set to meet a friend in Slovenia but was cheaper to fly into Croatia. Pula has a colosseum, called The Arena, which is pretty close in stature to the one in Rome and was built for the same purpose, gladiators.
At first blush one can be shocked that such monuments were built with the main purpose of watching being kill each other or to be ripped apart by wild animals, but are we so different today? Hasn’t boxing always been popular? UFC and MMA fighting are more popular than ever. Is it a sickness or did we somehow evolve with this fatal flaw of self-destruction? I’ll leave it to the philosophers.
Pula also has a nice center plaza that very much reminded me of Siena, Italy. Everyone gathers for food/drink and watches the world go by, my fav. I very much love this aspect of European culture. There were some tunnels we decided to skip, built shortly after WWI, but is quite the impressive network to transport people and goods during bombings. Pula has a nice feel to it and in our usual boomerang fashion, will be coming back shortly:)Baca selengkapnya
Friends! We have gotten really lucky lately having a string of friends visit and once again have a friend with us for all of Slovenia and Croatia. Yeah. We were about to spend a few nights in Bled but stopped at Ljubljana on our way back from the airport.
Ljubljana (Lube-Lee-Anna) is such a beautiful city and has that classic European feel with the Sava River running through it, cafes sprawled all along with a gorgeous mountain backdrop. The Habsburgs held sway over Slovenia, like many places, for around 600 years and why their architecture has such a feel of Vienna.
In addition to the mountain backdrop, a castle perches on one of the hills above still feigning its protective presence. We hiked up to get and were afforded great overviews of the city. There is also dragon bridge, dragons are the symbol of Slovenia, with a total of 20 dragons on this one bridge. Slovenia associates their mythical origin story with the Greek fable of Jason and the Argonauts and his slaying of the dragon of the dragon here.
Slovenia only gained independence in 1991, never before knowing anything but dictatorial regimes, consequently the person they celebrate and immortalize is not some general on a horse but a poet. France Preseren captured Slovenia’s feelings in his poem titled “The Toast” here is one stanza:
God’s blessing on all nations,
Who long and work for that bright day,
When o’er earth’s habitations
No war, no strife shall hold its sway;
Who long to see
That all men free
No more shall foes, but neighbors be.
This is why he has a statue forever commemorating him in the city center and his longings for peace and love. Perhaps a good lesson for the rest of the world to follow in whom we choose to idolize.Baca selengkapnya
We are here in jolly ol’ England visiting a friend to get out of Schengen and to stay under the 90 days out of 180 days rule for Europe. We decided to take advantage of our friend’s workweek and hike the Southwest Coast Path, which is a 1000 kilometer hike on England’s, wait for it, southwest coast:).
Regarding jolly ol’ England, people here really are nice and overtly polite and friendly. Sometimes it made me wonder if there is a collective competition for congeniality within the country with some award given out that the winner would undoubtedly be too humble to accept:). There are worse traits.
Only having 4/5 days to backpack , we started our hike from Ilfracombe and made our way to Minehead. Amazingly this 1000 kilometer hike has the equivalent of hiking up three Mt Everest’s, which doesn’t surprise me given any lake or coastal hike is often a never ending up and down hike.
Felt good to exercise my backpacking muscles again. I was pretty taken by how dramatically beautiful the hike wound up being. The hills were as stereotypically green as those you would picture in Ireland. Sheep dot all the hillsides constantly bahing accusations at us. Rhododendrons wallpapered the landscape creating a gorgeous purple and green alongside cliffs overlooking an ocean with waters as blue as the Caribbean.
There were numerous old fishing towns that have been transformed into quaint retirement communities. In many ways it reminded me of Maine. You probably could do this hike staying in towns the whole way but most just wild camp and stop whenever they feel done for the day. Stacy and I didn’t do this because we looked it up ahead of time and thought it was illegal to do, but they don’t exactly have Rangers to enforce anything.
The first day was pretty easy, only 7ish miles, followed by just over 15 miles on day 2 and then 11 miles on day 3. In addition to the quaint old fishing towns, we would occasionally come across castles and mansions from a time gone by. Places that appeared as if they should be massive hotels but instead were occupied by small but lavishly wealthy families. Being a travel blog I’ll keep my thoughts against such dynasties to myself 🙄.
Unfortunately I had new shoes and socks and got some pretty bad blisters during the downhill hikes towards the end of day 2. After hiking 11 additional miles on 2 blisters, I felt done. Fortunately, jolly ol’ England, we met a couple at camp who offered us a ride to the next town, which was to be our stopping point anyway. I would highly recommend this hike to all and was only sad that we didn’t have more time to hike it.Baca selengkapnya
Friends!! Yeah, we had friends come and visit us for a week. We initially stayed in Lucca, which is a quaint town within an old walled off, moat and all, city. There are small but pretty plazas and they awesomely used the old wall to create a walking/biking path. Definitely could’ve spent another day or two.
Stopped off at Pisa on our way down to Florence. Glad we only swung through as a stopover since I don’t think much time is needed. The plaza hosting the famous Bell Tower is gorgeous and is adjacent to a couple of other spectacularly beautiful churches (so many churches, think I am getting churched out:). There was a swarm of tourists all identically putting out their hand as if they are holding up the leaning tower. Despite this, the plaza really is beautiful.
The Florence Cathedral of St Mary of the Flower is the main draw. Construction started back in 1296 and was not completed until 1436. Always amazes me that these types of structures get built even though they consistently take over a century. I think of all the changes and tumult that must have happened during the course of 140 years, yet they persisted. Really impressive.
The plaza itself is quite gorgeous and the style of church has a different facade than others making it notable. It is also the largest dome in the world, apparently there is some dispute between Florence and Rome over this undoubtedly with each side claiming its right to the record.
We visited the Accademia museum where “The David” is held. To be honest I was underwhelmed. Don’t get me wrong, the sculpture is beautiful and impressive but don’t think the museum did a good job of telling its origin story, history, anything about Michelangelo… It was really just about going in and seeing the sculpture. Maybe museums need to start a Find Penguin account and get a little more into storytelling:)
We also spent a day in Siena. Siena stretches across the Tuscan Hills and one can easily stay in shape simply by living and walking these hills each day. There is a beautiful central plaza that is used like a city park. Everyone seemingly gathers here and sprawls out to eat, drink, chat, people watch and watch the world go by.
Came across a statue of a dire wolf suckling two newborn human babies. This relates to the mythological founding of Rome. Romulus and Remus were born and castigated to the river to be killed because the king feared that they would one day rise up and overthrow him, they did.
The river god Tiberinus saves the children and carries them down the river to be saved by their mother Rhea. So much overlap with the Greek and Roman mythology, Rhea is in Greek mythology is also the mother of the Olympians, including Zeus.
To long of a story to tell but their mother who was killed but made a deal with the gods to come back as a dire wolf saves her two children and initially suckles them in a hidden cave (Zeus also had to be whisked away to a cave by his mother Rhea to hide him from Cronos who feared he would overthrow him, he did). For the record the Greek mythology was written first:). Anywho, these dire wolf statues are everywhere.
Unfortunately our friends are on their way home and we are heading to the UK to get out of Schengen for a couple of weeks. We will see and stay with our friend Nina and then hike the southwest coast path for 5 days!!Baca selengkapnya
PelancongThanks for sharing your stories along the way, it has always been great to see what you're up to :) have a safe trip home!
PelancongThanks and thanks for the inspiration to start Find Penguins. I’ve definitely liked journaling and most certainly would not have started without your nudge