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Jayme’s Camino Portugués
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Jayme’s Camino Portugués

“The journey is the reward”…Proverb Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 3, 2025
    Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    1

    The journey begins

    April 3 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    "It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end." - Ernest Hemingway And so the journey begins; Zach dropped me off at CVG and I am filled with cautious excitement. I wonder what the Camino has in store for meRead more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab

    “Mercury is in retrograde, expect delays

    April 4 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    “Mercury is in retrograde, expect delays” my good friend Marcia warned. Creeping delay out of Philadelphia last night until 2:30 a.m., then flight to LHR not cancelled just delayed until 7p tonight which wouldn’t work for me. So they booked me on non-stop tonight PHL to Lisbon and got me this beautiful room with a view at Holiday Inn. Got to my room around 4a and no late check out due to Philly’s game and hotel is sold out. So guess I’ll be hanging out in Admirals Club all day. Hoping for no more delays and I make it to Lisbon by Saturday morning.Read more

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    Arrived Lisbon

    April 5 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    “We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us.” – Anonymous After 26 hour delay in PHL airport arrived Lisbon and got to Air BnB around 11a. Arlene Genovese and I spent the day exploring and getting acclimated by walking up one steep cobblestone street after another. Went to the Se De Lisboa Cathedral and got the first stamp in our credentials and met a fellow peregrino, Trent from New Zealand. Spent time at an old convent with a roof top terrace that had fabulous views of the city and also an art gallery featuring the artist Santiago Belaqua. Enjoyed a great meal and Vino Verde wine which is wine made with very young grapes (green grapes) it was very good. Tomorrow we start walking to Porto where Arlene’s husband, sister, and sister-in-law will join us for the 2nd half of the Camino.Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    On the right path!
    2A very big kitty1

    Day 1 on the Camino is in the books!

    April 6 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    “If you get tired, learn to rest, not quit”—-Anonymous. Day 1 on the Camino: 13,23 miles, 28,175 steps, we have eased into the Camino. Tired but feel good. Part of the path is on a boardwalk that goes on for what seemed like forever with no way to get off. Also no ‘relief’ stations on the boardwalk. Will sleep soundly tonight!. Weather was a light drizzle in the morning but felt good and no need for our ponchos. While we had lunch there was a major down pour, but rain stopped and the sun came out by the time we finished.Read more

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    Day 2

    April 7 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    “Give me the clear blue sky above my head, and the green turf beneath my feet, a winding road before me, and a three hours' march to dinner - and then to thinking!”—- Henry Hazlitt.

    Got a late start today but did 19,580 steps and 9.5 miles. My apple gadgets always show more than Arlene’s don’t know why. It was extremely hot and didn’t sleep well night before so exhausted. We did end up taking train for 4 miles to get to our hostel. We were a little ambitious thinking we could do 13 miles today and reach Vila Franco de Xira.

    Met a group of women from UK and ran into them again at our hostel, so we all had dinner at a great little Italian restaurant. Also on the trail today we met Jon from Holland who like the Dutch man in the movie “the way” showed me a better Camino app to use. Also met Laurence from France who gave us more tips.

    The women from UK said the 4 mile train ride was a good call because those miles were along a very busy highway with a narrow pedestrian path.

    Plan to get up early tomorrow to beat the heat.    Read more

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    Day 3

    April 8 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    “Sometimes hitting the wall is life telling you to lean on it and rest”—-Anonymous. Today was a slog. Only walked 6.16 miles or 15,769 steps. It was another hot day, 80 degrees and the sun beating down, and the route was not the most pleasant. Very industrial and walking on streets with huge trucks whizzing by. They created so much wind it blew my hat off a couple times

    They say day 3 is when you typically hit the wall, I certainly did. Hot, exhausted, and a little unsteady on my feet. Anyone walking behind me would think I was drunk. So with 6 miles to go to the hotel and no end in sight to this industrial highway, we called an Uber to take us to the hotel. Camino pilgrims will tell you there is no shame in this because it’s more important to listen to your body. Arrived at hotel around 3p and collapsed.

    Most pics are from when we started out this morning. Even though it was not a picturesque walk, the day was brightened up by running into Lawrence from France again and Jan from Holland. Also met Alex from Denmark, Jorgan from Sweden, and 2 gentlemen from Germany: Flo and Tobias.

    Since we arrived at hotel early, we made it laundry day. When is the last time you took a shower and washed your clothes at the same time? By the way, treking poles make a great makeshift drying rack.    Read more

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    Day 4 - The magic starts

    April 9 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    “Walking is the most perfect form of motion for a person who wants to discover the true life.” – Thoreau.

    I admit the first 3 days I questioned what the F am I doing? With the exception of a few places and the boardwalk it has not been a pretty walk. But today in the early morning as I listened to my Pavarotti favorites and hiked through pastures and vineyards, the magic hit me. As I did a 360 to take in my surroundings, I was overcome by the beauty and the tears escaped my eyes and rolled happily down my cheeks. The world felt at peace, as it should.

    Hiked about 8 miles from Azambuja to Valada. While it was sunny and hot, there was a nice breeze blowing through the farmlands. Physically felt great today. While your body always reminds you it is working hard, I think it is actually enjoying being pushed.

    On the way today an old gentleman in a wheelchair stopped me. He did not speak English and I communicated I did not speak Portuguese so he kept talking to me in Portuguese and I could decipher he was telling me to go to Fatima and that it was beautiful. He pulled out some printed pages and handed them to me, I thought he wanted to sell them so I offered him a few euros. No, no he said and indicated it was for me. Tonight I tried to translate and it was about how when his mother was sick she went to Fatima and I think was healed. And how he had walked there. And there was a prayer for his mother and pilgrims. At least I think it’s what it says. I’ll have to have one of my friends translate.

    Staying at a very pretty pension, Villa Rio by Valada Village. Had a delicious dinner and will sleep well tonight. Tomorrow we walk to Santarem.    Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    5Taking a break and letting my feet breath
    1Tagus RiverBlue skies in the morningThe long and winding pathMembers of church group going to FatimaThe grape vines are growing2Pilgrim's meal

    Day 5

    April 10 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    “Well I've been out walking, I don't do that much talking these days, these days.”—-Jackson Brown

    Walked 11 miles today to Santarem, Portugal. The walk again was mainly through vineyards and farms. It was overcast for a good portion of the day but when sun was out it was hot and humid! There was no cafes between our starting point and Santarem. But we had packed a sandwich and apple from the hostel we stayed at last night. Water was a concern but about a 1/3 way to Santarem there was a water fountain where we could fill up our bottles

    Met a Portuguese church group who was making their annual walk to Fatima from Azambuja. Although I think the heat got to them because we saw vans picking them up 1/2 way to Santarem where they said they were staying for the night

    I’m staying at a modern hostel and have a private room with bath. Feet and body are holding up. No blisters!

    I need to take pics of more locals. An elderly man who didn’t speak English but we could understand each other through limited phrases and hand gestures told me I needed a sun hat. I showed him that I had one and he said good. But I wish I would have taken his photo. His face was tan and deeply etched the way life has a tendency to do. And he had the most beautiful smile and sparkling eyes.

    Tonight had a lovely Portuguese pilgrim’s meal at restaurant the hostel recommended. Rice, pork steak with fried egg on top and a salad. All for 12,50 euros

    Another night falling into bed exhausted but feeling accomplished    Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    1Yes that is my bra hanging on my pack. Trying to dry it before the rain comes
    3A new furry friend at breakfastChurch in Santarém2Old theatre1At top of Santarem1Sometimes the markers are easy to see other times you have to search for them1Building for sale if interested. Perhaps rehab into condos1Starting descent out of SantaremAnd the path gets narrower and steeperAre we sure this is the right way3Lost in a sea of foliageSinging in the rainA tasty packed lunch after the rain subsided1City worker whose truck broke down. Wished us a Buen Camino3Muddy shoes1Well deserved drink after a long day

    Day 6 - Arlene is fired!

    April 11 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    “Some people walk in the rain, others just get wet.”—-Roger Miller

    Walked a little over 7 miles, mostly in the rain, to Vale de Figueira. Leaving Santarem the path led us down a narrow path through the woods that descended the hill upon which Santarem sat. Thankfully it was not raining yet but it was slippery from the previous night’s rain

    As we walked through the vineyards, yes more vineyards, the light drizzle turned into a steady rain and our ponchos came out giving us the appearance of Quasimodo. Even though it was raining and in the 60’s, the walk was invigorating.

    When the rain broke we found a semi dry place under a tree to eat our packed lunch. You forget how good a simple ham and egg sandwich on fresh bread can taste, washed down with a bottle of water

    When we finally made it to Vale de Figueira, since there were no accommodations, Arlene made reservations at a hotel she thought was only 3 1/2 miles off the path and the plan was to take Uber to hotel then Uber back to path in the morning

    Well Arlene has been stripped of her duties of finding hotels for us. The Uber ride was $25 euros and took us 20 miles off where we wanted to be. So we are spending the night in Alpiarca then in morning taking a train to Tomar to get back on the Camino path and then walk about 8 miles to Calvinos.

    We had a good laugh over a pizza dinner. And the bartender served me the largest gin on the rocks I’ve ever seen (he may have added some Sprite to it) and needless to say I did not drink it all!

    More rain predicted for tomorrow, but we will forge ahead.    Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    1After one of the steep climbs a much needed rest
    2Tomar the place of the Knights of Templar1Arlene1A steep muddy climb1Might not look like it but this hill went on forever3Cooking dinner Alex, Ester, Arlene, and Yves

    Day 7 - Hills, hills, hills

    April 12 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    “After climbing a great hill, one finds that there are many more hills to climb." - Nelson Mandela

    First, many have asked who is Arlene? She’s my friend from Boston. We met in Seattle when I worked with her husband Richard. Richard and Arlene’s sister and sister-in-law are joining us in Porto and walking to Santiago. And I’d like to add that while we are walking together we are also walking alone. Arlene is a sprinter and frequently far ahead of me then stops to rest while I catch up. I’m more like a marathoner, a steady even pace. But when I catch up to Arlene I need a rest. So I give her a hard time that her breaks are twice as long as mine.

    Today was a hard ~7 1/2 miles from Tomar to Colin’s. The path through the woods was muddy, slippery, and steep. Once we got out of the woods the paved roads were just as challenging. Hill after hill. And just like the lines at Disney you would think you are at the top but you go around the curve and the hill continues and is steeper. The positive is that it forced Arlene to slow down! The negative is that it was grueling and we forgot to stock up on water in Tomar, so we were rationing what little we had. It was hot at times and rained part of the day, but the rain felt good

    Tonight we are staying at our first Auberge (hostel) in Colvinos. The cost is 7 1/2 euros. It was an old school house that was remodeled. There are a total of 10 beds (5 bunk beds) in a dormitory style room. We are joined tonight by Yves from France, Alex from Denmark, and Ester from Germany. Alex, Ester, and I went to a local market which was like a storage room in the back of a bar/cafe and picked up supplies to cook a communal dinner. Arlene and Ester made a rice dish with fresh vegetables on a hot plate Yves shared some French cheese and bread, and we had some cake. It actually tasted great.

    Tomorrow we face more steep hllls. So hitting the hay early.    Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    Special stamp from tonight's Aubergue
    Beautiful flowers2The cutest chicken I have seen. Correction 'rooster'So many beautiful abandoned buildings1I'm obsessed with all the beautiful old doorsI listened to Leonard Cohen as I walked through the woods. Perfect music for the moment.Cork tree with bottom bark strippedLots of quaint little villagesLove the colors of these doorsRan into Flo and Tobias from Germany againSmelling the EucalyptusI also love angels2Beautiful wisteria on abandoned buildingCarlos putting his special stamp in my credentialThe finished projectArlene captured my sandals and Camino shell swinging in perfect harmony

    Day 8 - What’s the rush?

    April 13 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 55 °F

    “Walk slow, don’t rush. That place you have to reach is yourself.” – José Ortega y Gasset

    Today we went from Calvinos to Alvaiazere. Along the way I encountered several pilgrims who walked as if the world is on fire. Even Bob an 80 year man from I think Amsterdam whose pace could put any 20-year old to shame not to mention two old dames

    It made me wonder why they are doing the Camino, perhaps to check off an item on their bucket list, to run from their problems, or perhaps because they don’t have much time off work? I don’t know. But what I do know is my slower pace has allowed me to take in all the beauty the Camino has to offer.

    Today was hilly again but the weather was cool and a little breezy. Perfect walking weather. There was a fork in the path and you could take either. One was fairly level, followed the river, and about a mile longer, the other was more physically challenging because it was a very steep climb up a muddy hill with many steep hills to follow. We took the more challenging route and the views at the top were breathtaking or perhaps it was because we were out of breath.

    About 2/3 up the enormous hill we came across a version of a eucalyptus bush. I crushed a couple leaves in my hand and took deep breaths. For a few brief moments my mind was transported to a luxurious spa and my body energized. It gave me the boost to conquer the remaining climb.

    The hilly path went through forests which had cork trees. Portugal is the cork capital of the world. They strip the bark from the bottom and make leather like goods. I saw some beautiful cork purses and totes in Lisbon but unfortunately the small store did not ship to the US and I had no way to carry them

    Tonight we are staying at Albergaria Pinheiro’s the hosts are Carlos and Christine Pinheiro. They do a special stamp for your credential which I have included in my photos. Carlos was so nice. He called the restaurant to make sure they stayed open for us and gave us a ride there and back. Carlos’s hobby is woodworking and he makes the most beautiful live edge tables from 100 year old poplar.

    Had a lovely pilgrim’s meal at a local restaurant with Vino Verde. Afterwards went to supermarket’s cafe and got 2 ham, cheese, and butter sandwiches for our lunch tomorrow. The cost for 2 sandwiches was 2.40 euros, that is about $1.35 each in USD. We’ve learned it’s best to pack a sandwich and snacks because cafes and restaurants are few and far between on the path. But I cannot adequately convey how good a simple sandwich, a few nuts, and an apple with a bottle of water tastes while taking a break on the Camino

    Tomorrow another long day through beautiful country side.    Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    5Give me shelter from the storm
    One of the smaller hills1Shrine that we came across in the middle of the woodsPretty garden1Yves from France with his trolly (as he calls it)Yves pulling his trollyFurry friend who ate our cookies but really wanted the ham sandwich he smelled in my backpackThe muddy pathThis is fun, really!2Path was full of big puddlesAnother shrineA memorial of some sorts in one of the small towns we passed through1Yummy vegetable soup

    Day 9 - Shelter from the storm

    April 14 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    “The world is mud-luscious and puddle-wonderful.—-e. e. cummings

    We hit the road at 7:30 a.m and headed out of Alvaiazere to Ansiao. It was a chilly, make that cold, raining morning and my challenge was none of the clothes I washed 2 nights ago were dry. So I had to put back on my dirty, stinky clothes and layer over my top my damp long sleeve top.

    There was no cafe in sight to get breakfast to fortify us for what lay ahead. The path started out with more hills and the rain intensified and the wind kicked up at times. We plodded along and as usual our fellow pilgrims from the auberge eventually passed us by.

    While there were some breaks in the rain, and thankfully one around noon, where we sat on some rocks and ate our packed lunch, it basically rained all day. Most of the path today was through woods, but the wooded path was made up of jagged rocks which were quite slippery.

    Yves from France was the last one to catch up to us when we were about halfway to Ansiao. He pulls a trolly that is attached to his waist (see pics) and looks quite humorous trucking up the hills.

    While the weather was miserable in a weird way it was a little fun. Reminiscent of your childhood where one loved walking in the rain and splashing in puddles

    By the time we reached Ansiao, we were drenched and found a laundromat where I could re-wash all my wet clothes and dry them. Ahh the simple things like putting on clean clothes after a hot shower!

    Tonight’s pilgrim meal at a local restaurant consisted of olives, vegetable soup, veal, rice, potatoes, and dessert. You could also have wine with your meal. The soup was delicious, as was the veal. At dinner we met Laurent from France. This is his 4th Camino.

    One interesting observation we had is that Arlene and I have not seen any women our age on the Camino. Perhaps they have more sense? Or are starting closer to Santiago? There have been men our age or older, but mostly 20-30 something young guys. Hmmm

    While the rain was fun at times today, I don’t know if that attitude will last as it is suppose to be cold and rainy for possibly the next week. But I’ll worry about that tomorrow because right now I need sleep! Boa Noite.    Read more

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    2A storm is a brewing
    2212Photo doesn't do justice to how steep this hill isTribute to seamstresses in the region

    Day 10 - Thunder and rain

    April 15 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    “Life isn’t how you survive the thunderstorm, but how you dance in the rain.”—-Adam Young

    Today we went from Ansiao to Ribeira de Alcalamouque. A day filled with thunderstorms, rain (at times intense), muddy rocky trails, and steep hills. On the trails you need to concentrate so you don’t lose your footing as the rocks are very slippery.

    While walking through the rain, I thought of a topic for a lively dinner conversation: Of the 7 deadly sins. Is there 1 that drives or leads to the others? I say it is greed, Arlene says pride. Food for thought

    The second question I pondered is: do people romanticize the Camino too much or is it like childbirth where you forget all the pain and suffering and just remember the beauty when you are done? This has been mentally and physically challenging. But in the morning you are eager to keep going.

    Tonight is a short post because 1) I’m exhausted and 2) we are staying in an auberge, Casa da Lima, that only has 4 beds and while its just Arlene, myself, and a French man named Mano, he gets up very early so common courtesy dictates lights out early.

    Before I close I will say it’s a beautiful place and our host made us a delicious dinner for 5 euros.

    Night    Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    1Arlene walking up a street in Zambujal
    4A moment of calm1You looking at me?1La from South Korea and volunteer at the rest stop honoring the Fatima childrenNature's beautyNature's beautyFatima memorial13I could live here. Get a few goats and some chickensSo many abandoned houses and buildings, but some are being restored1Part of ancient Roman ruins in Cominbrings

    Day 11 - Look deep into nature…

    April 16 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    “Look deep into nature, and then you will start to understand everything better”—-Albert Einstein

    Today we went from Ribeira de Alcalamouque to Conimbriga, which is famous for its Roman ruins. Despite the rain, it was a good walk, a combination of the body getting used to the daily challenges I am putting it through and the hills were not as steep.

    We ran into more pilgrims today, but a few that we see frequently. 2 girls from the Netherlands, La from South Korea, and Jan from the Netherlands.

    Tonight we are at an auberge with 10 beds and luckily we reserved 2 beds this morning because they are full and our friend from South Korea had to keep walking. But our other fellow pilgrim Jan is here. We met him on the first day of the Camino and said if we ever happened to be at the same place we would share a bottle of wine. So tonight Jan, Arlene, and I went out to dinner and shared some wine. Jan told us all about his life and his husband back home. He is nurse anesthesiologist and has done the Camino a few times before but never the French Way. He prefers the other routes because they are less populated with pilgrims

    The weather was quite chilly today and rainy. Cafes or restaurants on this section are very hard to find, so you pack a lunch, but with this weather you do crave a hot tea to warm yourself up. So it was a pleasant surprise to come across a rest stop on a country road that offered hot coffee, tea, and biscuits for a donation. The stop was actually a memorial to the 3 children of Fatima and former pilgrims volunteer to greet people on the Camino and offer them a place to sit for a bit and have some refreshments.

    Tomorrow we head to Coimbra which used to be the capital of Portugal. We also plan on taking a rest day which I am looking forward to!    Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    1Anthony in Condeixa-A-Velha
    Jan from the NetherlandsCape Marguerite Daisy Bush2Black kitten playing peek-a-boo in village of Orelhudo2Bird of Paradise

    Day 12 - Coimbra!

    April 17 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    “One of the great things about travel is that you find out how many good, kind people there are.” – Edith Wharton.

    This morning we bid adieu to our friend Jan, while he was also going to Coimbra, he got an earlier start than us. The day was not quite as rainy as the past few days, but rain plagued us nevertheless. Degree wise it was a little warmer but walking in the rain the last 3 days has given me a sore throat and slight cold, so happy to have a rest day in Coimbra tomorrow.

    Due to rain didn’t take many pictures today. But while walking through Condeixa-A-Velha, we met a kind older gentleman named Anthony. He yelled at us to stop and hurriedly crossed the street with his walker to talk to us. He spoke a little English but wanted to know where we were from and if we were going to Santiago. He was so happy that we were walking the Camino and kissed each of our hands and cheeks while wishing us a Buen Camino and good journey in life.

    Had lunch in a small cafe in Cernache. When we asked the delightful owner if he served lunch, he said of course and fixed us a ham, cheese, and butter sandwich. I think that is all they eat for lunch, but I admit they are quite tasty when taking a break during a day of walking.

    We have rented a small 2br/2ba apartment in Coimbra. It is quite lovely and in the old town area with several cafes and restaurants that we can walk to. However, the first place we went was to the laundromat.

    Tonight we had dinner at a little Portuguese restaurant that only seats 10 and is located up the street from our rental. I don’t think I’ve had one bad meal in Portugal, all the food has been tasty, and tonight was one of the best meals so far. The other thing I find interesting is how inexpensive food is here.

    Tomorrow I’ll explore Coimbra and hope to see a ‘Procession of the dead Lord’ tomorrow on Good Friday. Saturday we will resume our trek to Porto to meet Arlene’s husband, sister, and sister-in-law and then continue on to Santiago.    Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    1The shadow that Mary cast was poignant
    2The street that leads to our apartmentOld Town Coimbra1Alter at Se Velha Coimbra4Se Velha Coimbra, Old Cathedral of Saint Mary of Coimbra, alterIn the Se Velha Coimbra2The cloisters at Se Velha CoimbraMarker embedded in the streetIn the Monastery of Santa CruzIn the Monastery of Santa Cruz5Dinner at Restaurant Maria's

    Day 13 - Good Friday in Coimbra

    April 18 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    “May Good Friday wrap you in peace and hope”—-common saying

    Today was a much needed rest day and after a hearty breakfast made a quick stop at the pharmacia to get cold medicine.

    Coimbra is a beautiful city and we visited the Se Velha Coimbra, Old Cathedral of Saint Mary of Coimbra. The cathedral is beautiful and while I’m not a catholic, I do appreciate the spiritual nature.

    My lead photo is from the Monastery of Santa Cruz. The shadow that Mary cast was poignant. While Mary’s arms are outstretched as if offering comfort and love, her shadow (to me) looks sad, as if she is dejected by man’s refusal to seek peace and treat people with respect and dignity.

    Walking through the cobblestone streets we heard the sound of fado music, a soulful and melancholic Portuguese musical genre, waffling through the air. It was beautiful

    I also visited a Portuguese ceramics shop with pieces from a local artist. It was torture! Torture in the sense that there were so many beautiful pieces: large bowls, serving dishes, olive bowls, etc. that I would love to have, but no way to carry them on my trek and they don’t ship to a the U.S. 😟. Maybe I’ll find something as nice at the end of my journey

    Tonight we returned to the same little restaurant that we ate at last night. While we looked at other places, the menus were just not as appealing as the Restaurant Maria’s. I dined on a spicy chick pea salad and Picanha, a cut of beef first made popular in Brazil, and later adopted in Portugal. Another bonus is it is right up the cobblestone street from our apartment which was a blessing considering it started raining hard by the time we left!

    Tomorrow we continue our way to Porto and then Santiago!    Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    1I want soup!
    3

    Day 14 - Forced semi-rest day

    April 19 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    “My relationship with my body has changed. I used to consider it as a servant who should obey, function, give pleasure. In sickness, you realise that you are not the boss. It is the other way around.”—-Federico Fellini

    Okay, I had to cry uncle. My head is stuffy, nose is running, throat is raw, can’t stop sneezing and coughing, and I’m cold to the bone. The rain continues and the winds have kicked up

    The rain these past 4-5 days has slowed our pace and we need to be in Porto by April 22nd. So to get back on track we took a short train ride to Sao Joa da Madeira and planned to do a quick 5 mile walk to our hotel in Malposta. But as the train wheels went clackity-clack, my body screamed ‘WTF, are you a quack? Hit the sack you fool’ so instead we got a ride from the station to the hotel and here I lie under a pile of blankets to get warm at 5p. It’s thundering outside and I’m skipping dinner and going to sleep

    So hoping the cough syrup, throat stuff, and ibuprofen do their magic overnight and I get back on track

    No sympathy wanted, just send some sunshine, dry weather, and positive vibes.    Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    A cross of Lilies outside someone's garage
    An espigueiros, a little grain storage houseAnother espigueiros2The man that guided us back to the right pathFlowers growing randomly out of the wall4I want wrought iron gates leading to my backyardSmall shrineA little chapel on the pathInside the chapel4Church whose facade was all made of blue ceramic tile1

    Day 15 - Hard to keep me down

    April 20 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    "Life is tough, my darling, but so are you," - Stephanie Bennett-Henry. The voice whispered in my ear.

    Woke up feeling better, not 100%, but much better and my body I think was craving to walk! The weather was cool and of course a light rain until around 1p.

    We walked from Malposta to Grijo and at the half way mark found an Aldi grocery store and got some fresh bread, meat and cheese which served as our lunch and dinner since most places are closed for Easter

    The path was not well marked and we missed a turn but about 2 blocks in the wrong direction an older Portuguese gentleman flagged us down and was able to gesture that we had missed our turn and he walked us to the proper turn off. Pilgrims are easy to spot with their backpacks and trekking poles; the locals are friendly and eager to help if you get off the path or are looking for a place to eat or a Pharmacia. So despite the language barrier we always manage to communicate.

    Tonight we are staying at Albergaria Sao Salvador’s de Grijo, a municipal hostel. The cost is only 10 euros; the place is clean but not heated. (They do provide plenty of warm blankets!)

    You may ask why stay at a hostel? Well, you don’t always have a choice because there are no hotels or pensions nearby; so unless you are willing to walk another 10 miles or more, you sleep where you can find a bed.

    We’re very close to Porto now and could reach there tomorrow if we pushed it, but instead will spend the night in Vila Nova de Gaia, right outside Porto then arrive in Porto Tuesday. Arriving in Porto means we are more than halfway to Santiago!    Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    2Altar at the Monastery of Grijo's Cathedral
    Altar at the Monastery of Grijo's CathedralCloisters at the monastery1PedroThe cathedralStained glass in front of cathedralProcession after the service

    Day 15 Part 2 - Easter Mass

    April 20 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    "The great gift of Easter is hope." — Basil Hume.

    Tonight the gentleman who looks after the auberge encouraged us to go to mass at the cathedral in the Grijo Monastery and I’m glad I did.

    The Monastery grounds are ~2,000 years old and the cathedral that was built to replace the original is ~600 years old. The church was beautiful and while the service was in Portuguese, it was moving.

    After the service a young man named Pedro introduced himself and asked if we were pilgrims. He gave us a brief history of the cathedral and monastery.

    Happy Easter and may the world find peace in these turbulent times.    Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    1The paths are steep, muddy, and slippery.
    More muddy hillsThe long and winding road2Arlene fits right in with the muralManu from FranceThis looks like a good spot to have our lunch1Scrumptious dinner2All my meds - Good Night

    Day 16 - Patience

    April 21 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    "Adopt the pace of nature. Her secret is patience." –Ralph Waldo Emerson

    After a restless and frigid night in an unheated auberge, started walking early in the rain, of course. But we soon stopped for hot tea and I made a trip to the pharmacia next door to get eye drops for the conjunctivitis (Pink Eye) I now have. It could be caused by the cold I’m still battling or I touched a contaminated surface. There was no communication challenge with the pharmacist, as I approached her she looked at my eyes
    and said ahh and went and got eye drops for me

    The rain cleared around 1p but the paths were now quite muddy and slippery. A particular down hill slope was quite challenging with the boulders and rocks. But we made it from Grijo to Vila Nova de Gaia. And to our surprise we are only 1.1 miles from our Porto accommodation tomorrow where we will join Arlene’s husband, sister, and sister-in-law

    Little things can really boost your spirits on the walk: a beautiful setting, nature’s beauty, a kind foreigner wishing you a Buen Camino, and running into pilgrims you met on the path earlier. Today we ran into Manu from France who we had shared an auberge with earlier and La from South Korea who sometimes we are ahead of him and other times he is ahead of us. He has the biggest smile and relies heavily on his translator to communicate. When he saw us taking a break 1/2 way up a steep hill, he was so excited to see us and took a short break with us to rest his knee

    Tonight was a fabulous Portuguese dinner and I had the Picanha again. Delicious. Of course I may be biased having eaten only ham, cheese, and butter sandwiches since leaving Coimbra.

    I am now snuggled in my bed in a private room and have taken all my meds. This peregrine is crashing for the night!    Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    1Everyone arrived Porto! Noel, Arlene, Richard, Deb, and me
    1Cathedral in PortoAltar22

    Day 17 - Porto!

    April 22 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    “Good company on a journey makes the way seem shorter”—-Izaak Walton

    We are all in Porto! More than half way to Santiago. Today Arlene and I joined her husband (Richard), sister (Noel), and sister-in-law (Deb). We’ve rented a very cute 3 br apartment near the cathedral. Tomorrow we will explore Porto (but I may opt for another rest day while they explore to kick this cold out) and then continue on to Santiago on Thursday.Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    1Porto
    1River Douro1Porto1Church on cliff overlooking the Douro1Dinner with friendsBridge over the river Douro2Dinner with a viewMonastery in Lisbon1Fernandine Walls began in 1336 to replace Roman walls around Porto

    Day 18 - Porto & Decisions

    April 23 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    "The soul that sees beauty may sometimes walk alone." - Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

    Today was a relax and explore Porto day, but truth be told I spent the day resting and contemplating what it was I want to get out of the Camino.

    My friends are walking the Coastal Route and I have decided to continue on the Central route doing the last 150 miles on my own. No reflection on my traveling companions, just something I feel I need to do. We should all arrive Santiago about the same time and reconnect.

    The first part of the Camino out of Lisbon was not well traveled. Arlene and I were the oldest women walking and we would go for long periods without running into other pilgrims. So I would not have felt comfortable walking it alone. But there will be more pilgrims starting their journey out of Porto, so more people will be around

    Tonight we had dinner at Six Ponte Sky Bar that overlooked the river. We sat outside and the views were breathtaking.

    Tomorrow a new adventure begins!    Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    1Room with a view
    1Making my way out of Porto1Bye bye Porto1A friendly gent who wished me Buen CaminoNear the border of Porto1Villager who wanted to know where I was from and wished me Buen CaminoAlong the way4Room with a view5My room for the eveningMonastery gardens2On grounds of monasteryMonasteryEntrance to monasteryMy room is the top right corner roomMonastery groundsRoad from Monastery5Pilgrim dinner

    Day 19 -Going solo

    April 24 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    “Life begins at the end of your comfort zone.” – Neale Donald Walsch

    This morning I said goodbye to my friends and headed out of Porto on the Central Route which took me to the town of Vairao for the evening.

    I am staying at Albergue de Peregrinos do Mosteiro de Vairão, the monastery where it is located is nearly 1,000 years old (built in the 11th century). While the bathrooms/showers are dormitory style, I have a private, corner room on the top floor in the tower with sweeping views of the grounds and country side. It’s beautiful and with only 4 rooms, all private, on this floor, it’s very quiet. All for 35 euros which includes breakfast!

    When I arrived I was hacking up a storm (and no that’s not why they stuck me in the tower, I had requested it) the manager of the auberge was so sweet and made sure I had extra blankets and tea with lemon. Told me there was no rush to leave in the morning, if I needed to sleep in.

    There are quite a few pilgrims here and I ran into a few on my way to dinner. All lovely folks.

    I think I will sleep well tonight!    Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    4I wonder if this is an old boat house
    Leaving the monastery the birds were chirpingOne of the many wooded paths. Perfect for listening to PavarottiLaurent who we met on our 2nd day out of Lisbon and his family and friendsBridge over calm watersOh the lovely country roadsSomeone bent the sign to keep the water from spraying onto the road1Can't relate how peaceful the walk was todayWhat is behind the door? A secret garden or remnants of lives once lived?A beautiful entrance to someone's property. Did the road once lead to a beautiful country manor?Imagine in the summer when the metal frame above the street is filled in with vines. MagicalI love how the walls frame the cobblestone streets1Graffiti messageLittle bridge over a creek.Country church2Would love to see the home that is behind these gates

    Day 20 - Be present

    April 25 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    “It is through gratitude for the present moment that the spiritual dimension of life opens up.”—-Eckhart Tolle

    Made it from Vairao to Pedra Furada. Last night I had the best sleep on the whole Camino trip so far at the monastery. It was hard to leave such a calm, serene, place…but I must keep moving forward.

    The walk today was lovely it went through wooded paths, country roads, and rolling landscapes. Some may ask “what do you think about when walking alone?” The answer is everything and nothing. I try to consciously do more of the nothing because I want to be fully present and take in all the beauty I’m surrounded by.

    Took lots of pics and to some of you it may look like more of the same, but I find beauty in each whether it is an old door, a decaying building, or the beautiful countryside. I wonder what lies behind the doors? Who once lived in the decaying buildings, what was their life like, what happened? And so on

    Today I ran into Laurent who Arlene and I had met on our second day out of Lisbon. Like Arlene he had met his spouse and friends in Porto to finish the Camino with them. It was nice to meet his family.

    Met several pilgrims on the road and when I stopped at a cafe for lunch a pilgrim from Germany came in and asked to sit with me. He spoke very little English, but we managed. He had started in Porto and had just come from the Coastal route. We were then joined by a young girl from the Netherlands. There seems to be quite a number of Dutch walking the Camino

    Tonight I am staying at Casa de Maria; a small private room with private bath. It cannot compare to the monastery, but at least it is private. I think for dinner since I had lunch at the cafe that I will just eat the ham and cheese sandwich I bought this morning and go to bed early.

    Boa noite e que a paz esteja com você. (Good night and peace be with you)    Read more

  • Jayme PorkolabJayme’s Camino PortuguésJayme Porkolab
    1After a slight delay beginning with walk in woods
    4Video of where I'm stayingThe lyrics 'and I would walk 500 miles' plays in my headCarving on someone's stone houseSo many houses I could live in and restore, if onlySmall church near Santa Cruz, all with crosses draped in white for the Pope1Back of where I am staying2Communal dinner at the farm

    Day 21 - Healing

    April 25 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    “Walking is man’s best medicine.” –Hippocrates

    I planned for a long walk today to Vitorino dos Piaes. But this cold / bug keeps rearing its ugly head. So I spent part of morning waiting for a tele-doc appointment. He prescribed antibiotics which I had to wait for at the Pharmacia. So I got a late start.

    However I did make it to Vitorino dos Piaes, I just had to take a taxi the last few miles to get to my reserved room so it did not cancel

    Now with all that said, it was a long day and I hope meds kick in quickly. I am staying tonight at a lovely farm, Casa Rural O Estabulo, along with 7 Germans and 2 Portuguese folks. They converted the stables into private rooms with baths. Very modern and pretty. I am attaching a video and you can hear all the frogs singing in the background.

    The host made a communal dinner and we feasted on fresh salad from her garden, bread with local olive oil, pasta with chicken, verde vino, and crème brûlée for desert.

    So I’m well fed and well medicated! Night all!    Read more

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