Portugal Ansião

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  • Day 12

    Camino Day Nine

    May 5 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Alvaiázere to Alvorge
    ~22.7 km/14 miles

    I walked by myself all day, which was kind of nice. I enjoy walking with others, but it's nice to walk at my own pace, and stop to take photos or rest when it suits me.

    There was a light rain most of the morning, and a lot of mud on the trail. My sandals and socks were covered with mud, so the only thing to do was to walk through some clear water when I found it.

    There are so many crumbling buildings in the area that add to the landscape that I enjoy taking pictures of, so that was sort of the focus for today when I wasn't sloshing in the mud.

    I stopped for breakfast in Ansião which had a lot of interesting public art.

    I'm staying at a very nice albergue in Alvorge where I was tempted by the single private room. It was a good choice as the dorm is full of guys.

    We all had a really good dinner of pork, rice, salad, dessert and wine for only €10!

    Evan from Australia is here along with two Germans, an Italian, and a Korean man who has walked many Caminos.
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  • Day 13

    Day 10 - Thunder and rain

    April 15 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    “Life isn’t how you survive the thunderstorm, but how you dance in the rain.”—-Adam Young

    Today we went from Ansiao to Ribeira de Alcalamouque. A day filled with thunderstorms, rain (at times intense), muddy rocky trails, and steep hills. On the trails you need to concentrate so you don’t lose your footing as the rocks are very slippery.

    While walking through the rain, I thought of a topic for a lively dinner conversation: Of the 7 deadly sins. Is there 1 that drives or leads to the others? I say it is greed, Arlene says pride. Food for thought

    The second question I pondered is: do people romanticize the Camino too much or is it like childbirth where you forget all the pain and suffering and just remember the beauty when you are done? This has been mentally and physically challenging. But in the morning you are eager to keep going.

    Tonight is a short post because 1) I’m exhausted and 2) we are staying in an auberge, Casa da Lima, that only has 4 beds and while its just Arlene, myself, and a French man named Mano, he gets up very early so common courtesy dictates lights out early.

    Before I close I will say it’s a beautiful place and our host made us a delicious dinner for 5 euros.

    Night
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  • Day 12

    Ask and you shall receive

    April 14 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    We have been asking for rain to relieve us from the heat and humidity. Today we got it! No warmth and rain all day, with the exception of about an hour when we ate lunch and took pictures.
    We started early, and the kitchen at the albergue was small and overly crowded with all the young guys getting nourished before their 30+ kilometers treks. So we decided to stop in a café with room to sit for our morning beverage and sweet. Sadly, we didn't come across one so breakfast was some chocolate sugar cookies and water, sitting on our packs on the side of the road, watching all last nights house-mates pass us by, with full tummies and tons of energy. No matter we were soon on our way also.
    The path today was primarily through woods with the occasional pop out to walk through some tiny village. This whole area is a series of ups and downs. We certainly got a good work out. It also rained harder than it has as yet, and nearly all day. It made the hills, especially in the woods, difficult to navigate with puddles, slippery mud and slick loose rocks. To say it was slow going would be an understatement. We did meet an ever so cute dog, a pilgrim heading back, walking in the opposite direction and Yve, our French friend, pulling his little trolley packed with his stuff ( he doesn't carry a back pack) We came across a few places where pilgrims were showing their devition, like a couple cairns and two shrines, one devoted solely to the Virgin Mary and the other to both Mary and Jesus. Most of the day was me, Jayme and nature. We arrived in Ansaio soaked through to the skin. Somehow, I didn't even mind. Even in the midst of all the things I would run from at home, I had fun.
    After we got into our hotel, we packed up all our wet clothes, both the ones we were wearing and the ones in our packs that have not fully dried over the last couple days, and got some laundry done. It is such a pleasure to be able to put on clean dry clothes tomorrow!
    We also went down the street for our pilgrims meal. It was way more food than I could eat, but for 15euro I had olives and bread to start, then a bowl of vegetable soup, the main of veal with French fries and rice and a " glass" of wine served in a little carafe that i can't finish, and ended with mousse for dessert and a cup of coffee. No wonder you can walk 400 miles and only lise a pound or two!
    Yesterday Jayme picked some eucalyptus while we were walking in the forest. Today I got some oil and we made out own massage oil. I think our feet are going to love this treat!
    It looks like it will be raining the next few days , so apologies in advance for what I anticipate to be low picture days. I am trying not to expose my phone to too much moisture.
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  • Day 7

    Tag 7: Viel Hände und Füße heute

    March 7 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Strecke: Cortiça - Alvorge, 30 km

    Mit neuem Elan brach nach einem letzten Frühstück mit Niamh auf, die ab jetzt kürzer treten will, und suchte mir meinen Weg durch die von alten Steinmauern gezierten Weiden und Felder. Die kleinen Dörfer haben auf mich etwas sehr Ursprüngliches und Genügsames, manchmal aber auch etwas Trostloses. Viele Ruinen, angekettete einsame Hunde, aber auch viele schön Orangenbäume und Blumen…

    Ich erreichte Alvaiàzere und stieß direkt auf Taewon aus Südkorea. Gemeinsam liefen wir weiter und er erzählte mir, dass er am ersten Tag 57 km gemacht hat, weil er keine Herberge gefunden hat. Meine Güte… Er ist 59 Jahre und bereits pensioniert, aber vor Aktivismus kaum zu bremsen. Mals schauen ob er seinen 40er-Schnitt beibehalten kann. Sein englisch jedenfalls sehr schwer zu verstehen, sodass mir das Zuhören auf Dauer sehr schwerfällt. Ich entscheide mich, nach einem unfassbar guten Mittagessen - das musste sich vor keinem Weihnachtsessen verstecken: Gekochtes Rind in Rotweinsauce mit Kartoffeln - den Nachmittag alleine zu wandern.

    Promt aus dem Ort raus, schaltet sich die Dusche an. Und mit Dusche meine ich Dusche. Die Redewendung „es schüttete“ wurde genau für diesen Zustand erfunden. Alter Falter….
    Ich war rasch nass bis auf die Haut und suchte nach einer Stunde in einer Ruine Unterschlupf: Entweder einmal komplett umziehen und den Regen für 1 1/2 Stunden aussitzen oder den Turbo für 7 km anwerfen, um nicht komplett zu unterkühlen.

    Es wurde Zweites und in einem regelrechten „High“ kam ich dann in Alvorge an, wo mich der Wirt der Herberge regelrecht von der Straße in seine Herberge schob. Sehr übergriffig. Da ich jedoch komplett nass war, beließ ich es bei meiner eine trilingualen Kritik aus Händen & Füßen, Englisch und etwas Französisch und nahm die warme Unterkunft dann doch auch dankend an.
    An den Augen des italienischen Paars in meinem Zimmer sah ich schon, dass der Wirt bei ihnen ähnlich gehandelt hatte und wir bildeten schnell eine Interessengemeinschaft, ihn wieder möglichst schnell aus dem Zimmer zu bekommen. Es klappte!

    Zusammen teilten wir uns anschließend den Google-Übersetzer, Wäscheständer und die Kekse. :)
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  • Day 12

    More Rain!

    March 27, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The rain was on and off again today, along with some very high winds. In the ucalyptus tree forest, many were cracking in the wind. I thought for sure that some would come down. I made it to a very nice alberge here in Alvorge. The trails were very nice today, but few towns to get anything to eat. I would like to shine the light on the sweet old lady in the minimercado this morning, who insisted on buying my morning pastry for this dishevelled looking pilgrim. Here are some pics.Read more

  • Day 13

    Day 8 Alvaiazere to Rabacal

    May 3, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Today was a lot like yesterday - forests, hills, olive trees, vineyards, flowers, small towns, and suburban neighborhoods. And 20+ miles! Beautiful terrain, truly only appreciated with the naked eye. I missed a photo opportunity this morning. An older woman was walking her goats down the road. I didn't want to take her picture without her permission and when we got closer enough, the goats jumped to the field. The picture reflected the old Portuguese. In the next town, there were new builds and rehabs of older buildings taking place and the making of a newer, contemporary Portuguese. We spent part of our day walking with Senti (South Africa), Connie and Lizbeth (Denmark), and Laura and Fortal (Mexico).

    We are starting at a wonderful Alberque and met Alex from Germany. Alex was originally from Essen. He was surprised we knew of it and had been there. Alex is a Packers fan but has friends who are Steelers fans, complete with terrible towels.

    We had dinner with Dan and Heather (Maine). Dan is in the Merchant Marines and basically works 70 days on and 70 days off. This trip is part of his 70 days off - they do not have a return flight booked.

    And green wine is delicious! (It's not really green or from green grapes - look it up!)

    Highlight: A man was getting oranges from his tree and offered us two. They were delicious!!

    Late in the day, we encountered our first rain shower since being in Portugal. It wasn't too long or too hard. Today was much cooler (mid 70s), which made the trek easier.

    It is great that, despite language barriers we are able to communicate with other pilgrims and the locals. Of course, being able to speak English is a great benefit. However, many locals on the smaller towns do not speak English, and the Mexicans we have traveled with know very little.

    Things that I, Jeff, am grateful for:
    - that Eileen and I are physically able to do this, despite it being hard/tiring
    - that Eileen is willing to do this Camino.
    - that we have the means to do it.

    When we get to the last hour or two of these 20 miles days, it is easy to ask yourself "Why?". Not sure that i have a good answer for that yet but I think it is good to test your limits and get out of your comfort zone.
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  • Day 8

    Etappe 7

    July 4, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Jakobsweg Tag 7: Von Cortiça nach Ansião
    Diese Verlassenen Dörfer in Portugal sind manchmal echt krass.
    Heute kam aus so nem Hinterhof ein Rudel Hunde angerannt und hat mich umstellt. Der Alpha hat ständig versucht mir in die Fersen zu kommen.

    Aber heyyyy nix passiert also weiter😎
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  • Day 4

    Partenza quarta tappa!

    May 7, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Colazione con cornetto alla crema e partenza.
    Direzione Rabacal, cittadina famosa per il suo formaggio.
    Durante il tragitto Consu si ostina a spiantare fiori in qua e in là con la speranza di portarli sani a casa e ripiantarli in giardino…Read more

  • Day 3

    Ostello di Alvorge

    May 6, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    All’ostello ritroviamo i canadesi e altri pellegrini, una ragazza Croata, due ragazzi tedeschi e una signora Inglese. Ceniamo tutti insieme alle 18.30!🤷🏼‍♂️
    Approfittiamo per fare il bucato e poi a lettoRead more

  • Day 14

    Day 10 - Cortica to Ansiao

    September 18, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Day 10 - Cortica to Ansiao, Monday, September 18.
    Started @ 7:25 am. Finished @ 12:30. 19.5k/12.1 mi. Walking time 4h6m. Steps 25,494. Calories 953.

    This was the best day walking so far. Weather was perfect. Path had different varieties (paved, dirt, rocks, cobblestone). Passed through a few small villages and that helped the km/miles go faster.

    Lots of vegetation - wild & planted. Tons of olive trees. Saw some critters - cows, dogs,cats.

    Came across some pilgrims I met yesterday and walked with them a bit - 2 from Eugene walked with the two Germans, and Pete & Jess from Charleston.

    Upon arriving in Ansiao found a nice tapas cafe. Jess & Pete joined me and had good conversation (Camino, presidential candidates, college sports).

    I’m staying in a house that is 2k out of town so Olga came to pick me up and she will take me back in the morning. Steve (British) Olga (Portuguese) made me feel very welcome. Fresh baked cookies and cold, filtered water. They have a beautiful nature garden, 2 cats, 2 dogs. I’m the only one here. The other room was not rented out tonight.

    Anyway, getting geared up for a long day tomorrow.

    Enjoy the journey. Photos have captions. Bom Caminho.
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