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Cruising donkeys

Cruising donkeys

podróżował/a po 12 krajach. Czytaj więcej🇬🇬Guernsey
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    Le Lavandou and headland

    13 listopada 2019, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Next stop Le Lavandou, don’t get excited we didn’t see any lavender fields. It was blowing a hoodie when we arrived it took two goes to get alongside on the Accueill pontoon so when they said we could stay there for the three nights we were happy. That night was very rolly and creaky John estimates winds reached at least 40 knots with gusts towards 50 we were listing badly and there was only a fetch of 5m. Next day started rough but after we had replaced the broken cable ties holding the skirts on in the howling gale it eased right off so we decided on a cycle and headed on a velo route towards Toulon. We didn’t get all the way there we turned off towards Hyeres after 90mins and had ... yes you guessed another hot chocolate, we’ve given up on French coffee it’s just too bitter. We then returned to Londes which we had cycled through for a Formule Midi (pork steak mash and salad) before returning to the coast and heading to Cabasson, past a number of vignoires (wineries) the Château’s and grounds were spectacular, to try to go to a fort we had seen offshore. It wasn’t to be the fort and island were private. We then, rather then retracing our steps decided to take a very steep uphill hike to a firefighters memorial followed by a treacherous scramble down with bikes to a proper road and a leisurely ride along the promenade back to the marina. The views were worth the walk up!
    Yesterday was a right off more wind and lots and lots of heavy rain. We now know that the foam stuff we bought to go in the port hole surrounds is rubbish. We thought it might be when I was fitting it as it hadn’t been precision cut so was too wide in some places so I had to jam it in and too narrow in others so it didn’t reach the sides.     Czytaj więcej

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    Port Grimaud

    11 listopada 2019, Francja ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We spent Remembrance Sunday riding to a regional flea market, the ride there was lovely but while we were mooching it started to rain so we and most of the stall holders rapidly returned to our transport and headed for the nearest town and some shelter. It hammered down. First we had a chocolat chaud, but it was still raining and we felt we were overstaying our welcome so we looked for somewhere else and unfortunately ended up in the poshest restaurant in town the meal was great but pricey. We were just grateful that after 10 mins other people started to arrive! It was only spitting for the return ride to the Marina. We only bought a DVD at the market spending €3.
    Remembrance day itself, which is a National holiday in France, we decided on a short cycle to Port Grimaud with our coats this time as rain was forecast, the port was very pretty, a bit twee but still lovely see photos. Most of them are someone else’s as it was overcast and started to rain. We checked our the property prices, blimey, a one bedroom with little garden (big enough for a table and 4chairs) and mooring was €600,000, we won’t be moving there anytime soon. But we did find Monroe’s an English pub for a cuppa before a beach stroll a quick look at what seemed to be giant bonsai trees and a stop for bread and milk before the heavens opened for the afternoon.     Czytaj więcej

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    Citadelle gates
    St Tropez HarbourPink prawn trawler?St TropezYacht raceHarbour, yacht club and 2 beached boats

    St Tropez

    9 listopada 2019, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Well I’m not sure what I actually expected but this wasn’t it, it’s really quite lovely, the Citadelle (which only costs a €3) gives a good history of the town and great views, the town is actually quite small with no high rise, lots of random squares. There were three peacocks at the entrance to the museum in the Citadelle that we had to move out of our to get in. Of course the shops are as expected Gucci, Rolex, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Jimmy Choo, Breitling and more, we didn’t buy anything but you know that’s because well who wants that sort of stuff anyway when you can shop at Decathlon? We arrived at the tail end of a market that was reasonably priced shame we missed most of it but weather permitting there is another one nearby tomorrow that we plan on going to. In the harbour was a converted trawler perhaps an ex prawn trawler, it was called pink prawn. We had read that if your boat is less than 20m you can’t book you just turn up on a first come first served as they only really want the big stuff we are down the road at Marines de Cogolin that takes 1600 boats and is next to Port Grimaud with a similar capacity. From what we have seen so far there are marinas very couple of miles and millions of pounds worth of boats in them! The trip here was OK on the way out of Cannes there was a giant cruise ship acting as a wave break, but on the first corner it was really windy, the hills must have caused tunnelling of the wind of something but there was only a short fetch so it was OK just very noisy and we had a consistent list. Here for a few days as storm expected force 7 predicted. Czytaj więcej

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    Cannes

    7 listopada 2019, Francja ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    OK so obligatory red carpet photos, but we weren’t actually very impressed with the place at all. Marina was nice enough, we were moored directly in front on the Radisson hotel on Quai St Pierre. There was a small old town and in the main bit, lots of posh well expensive shops. They were working on reinforcing the sea defences under the promenade and had covered the hoarding with photos of stars who have attended the Film Festival over the years.
    PS who/what are the NRJ Music awards?     Czytaj więcej

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    Eze

    5 listopada 2019, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    After a second day of heavy winds we decided to spend another night at a Beaulieu-sur-Mer, so looked up what to do on the Côte d’Azur and a visit to the town of Eze came up on a couple of sites. We rode to Eze sur la Côte and then followed a path up to the high town in side a small Fort, it was beautiful and the views from up there were great. After a delicious lunch of lamb stew with mushrooms, hazelnuts and potatoes we started looking for a different route down and after a few dead ends we found one. Czytaj więcej

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    Promenade d'AnglaisRussian Cathedrale of St NicholasJam shop

    Nice in Nice

    4 listopada 2019, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    So this time we took a bus and headed south to Nice, stopping at the Port and walking around the headland and up to the view point for a great look out over the city. We were lucky enough to watch an inshore lifeboat rescue display, the conditions were perfect high winds and big seas. Then we mooched around the flea market, nothing took our fancy. Next across town via the old town to the Russian Cathedral, incredible bit of architecture, before heading to the coast and along the Promenade. On the way towards the train station we saw some lovely old buildings and some nasty newer ones, we took train back as it was near the Decathlon store we went to so John could buy some warm joggers, he is getting nervous about the weather. A local guy helped us work the train ticket machine, he was a dear. Czytaj więcej

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    Monte Carlo Casino
    Monaco MarinaCathedralPrinces PalacePower cables for the superyachts

    Monaco

    3 listopada 2019, Monako ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    John has never been and I only visited for a few hours so we decided to visit Monaco 🇲🇨 and add another country to our blog. We almost didn’t get there as initially we were waiting for the bus, where we had seen it stop yesterday, when a kind local advised that there was diversion in place and buses weren’t going this way. OK no problem we will get the train, ticket office closed, machine only takes cards and coins, just not my card. We got to supermarket with 5 mins to spare and they gave us change, we bought the tickets and there was the train, a double decker.
    Monaco was very clean, very expensive and a real mix of buildings the beautiful older ones and lots of high-rise flats but interesting non the less. The boats in the main Marina were huge. The Cathedral was impressive white stone was used for the elaborate exterior but internally it was grey and more utilitarian. I can’t believe the interior of the Casino the nasty neon slot machines against the beautiful mouldings. We might have had a flutter but neither of know how to use the slots now that there are all the extra buttons.     Czytaj więcej

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    Beaulieu-Sur -Mer

    2 listopada 2019, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We made it 92Nm and 16hours later, it wasn’t the worst crossing but definitely not the nicest either fortunately all my preparation helped and I was able to do all my shifts. We could see the glow of the French coast from about 40miles out, that’s the first time in ages. We arrived early and tied up to the fuel pontoon for a nap while we waited for everyone to wake up. At 9 we tried to radio, no response, and then phone the harbour office, sims now invalid! The lady manning the fuel pontoon called for us and it looks like we got the last spot in the Marina. Breakfast and then check in and watched the Rugby World Cup final, not a bad game but quite bitty, the staff commiserated with us on the result. Lunch and then a stroll to the Cap Ferrat headland. We thought about visiting the Rothschild Villa but decided not to. It started to hammer down so we stopped for coffee, when will I learn, even with a sweetener I couldn’t drink it! Czytaj więcej

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    Notre Dame de Serra
    View south westView of Notre Dame de Serra from boat

    Calvi

    1 listopada 2019, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We checked the forecast again and we either cross to the mainland later today or not for a week so we will chance it later but first of all a quick bit of shopping. Bugger the French have a National holiday on 1 Nov so only the Spar is open, a really quick shop then, on the plus that means Marina office is closed so no need to leave the berth until we actually want to head across the water. After shopping we decide to ride/walk to Chapelle Notre Dame de Serra on the hill overlooking town, we had seen this from the other side too. The ride bit was OK then it got very steep, then it became a gravel path, then more a water run off than a path and hauling the bikes up was a trial but great views at the top. Back down via the road and then a shower before the off. I have my sea bands, tablets and ginger biscuits all ready! Czytaj więcej

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    Calvi

    31 października 2019, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Final Corsican Port, the plan is still to head off tomorrow afternoon towards mainland France. The scenery on this part of the trip also good and as a bit calmer I took some photos to show you all. Calvi has a Citadelle which looks good as well, sadly the sun isn’t shining as I sure it would look more impressive if it was. We have had a quick walk around town and the Citadelle and had our most expensive lattes for a while, €4.80 each, they were good but at that price we would have sent them back if they weren’t. Might get in another stroll tomorrow but forecast is for rain so we will wait and see. Czytaj więcej

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    Looking out the bay
    Girolata fortTake Five moored upChristmas bauble tree

    Girolata

    30 października 2019, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Sadly I woke at 03:30 because we were rolling so much, not good, we lasted until 06:30 then as it was light enough to see we got up and got underway munching on a banana each in lieu of breakfast. Fortunately we found a small sheltered cove by 08:00 and dropped anchor so John could have his morning cuppa and toast, he is definitely a happier person with tea inside him. We now know that it is more important to shelter from the swell than the wind, which seems to drop away overnight anyway. This means we will be rethinking our original overnight anchorage plan for tonight. We continued along the west coast but decided against hugging the coastline as there were some very large bays and we needed to reach shelter before dark at about 18:00. Coastline was impressive though with some very red rocks. We decided to head for a Girolata as it appeared to be only sheltered spot even though in theory there were mooring buoys we would have to pay for. John informed me the approach was stunning but due to the swell I was having a lie down, the bay itself was lovely but the book says in season they squeeze in more than 100 boats that I cant imagine. A man came out as we arrived and we confirmed we wanted to stay the night ‘you are lucky it is free now as everything is closed’ great news he even gave us permission to tie up on one of the jetties. Well another day so another walk, we headed up following the path towards Galeria knowing that as it was 6 hours away we would have to retrace our steps but the views were stunning, the contrast of the red rocks and the green vegetation was impressive we definitely headed up as we were just below the clouds when we returned around. Czytaj więcej

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    Liscia

    29 października 2019, Francja ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Well having completed a shop before we left at Carrefour we are now on the final leg of our Corsican adventure heading North from Ajaccio towards Calvi. We have stopped over night in Liscia and expect to get to Calvi on Thursday. From there we intend to travel to the French mainland arriving at Beaulieu-sur-Mer just to the West of Monaco 🇲🇨. The forecast isn’t great but the best option looks like an overnighter on Friday leaving teatime ish to arrive in the morning on Saturday. If we don’t go then the next break may come next Wednesday but that’s so far away it’s hard to know if that break will actually happen or not. Here are a couple of photos I took on the way out of Ajaccio on our way here. Czytaj więcej

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    Approach to Ajaccio and MSC cruise ship
    View from trainCorte Citadelle from BelvedereCitadelle from SentierRestonica Valley

    Ajaccio/Corte

    28 października 2019, Francja ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We arrived in Ajaccio around 16:00 after an extended lunch stop on the southern edge of the gulf where we tried to clean the hull of some the slime that had built over over the summer on the river. We had tried to book a berth at both of the marinas using the Corsican booking-site, emails and telephone but had received no responses and could raise anyone on the VHF either. Umm well we headed to the innermost marina and went in for a look around, the pilot book said visitors should take Beth’s on the port side on entry, this was full of motorboats. We tied up on the fuel dock and a shot over to the capitainerie, closed on sundays! We headed out slowly looking at the empty berths most had ropes in place but we noticed one between the motorboats that was vacant and as it was now nearly 17:00 we decided to risk it. It wasn’t until 19:00 that a very polite man on a bike asked us to move as we were in a private marina and the spot we were booked in was reserved with the boat due to arrive shortly. We had our tea in the oven so switched on the gennie and prepared to leave. Oh sorry said the man it’s OK you can stay the other boat has called to say they are not coming after all. Great news so we got a free night. The next morning we telephoned the other marina and they had a place immediately, so we headed around, moored, paid showered coffeed and still managed to catch the 11:00 train to Corte. Corte is in the middle of the island almost surrounded by mountains ⛰. The train ride was great, high and winding and Corte very interesting, it has the only inland Citadelle on Corsica the other 12 are on the coast. I took a dip in the river in the Restonica Valley, we were only able to do a short walk around the town due to time and access restrictions but we had a wonderful people watching lunch. On the walk we passed random Mausoleums (private tombs) very odd. Czytaj więcej

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    View from the Tower

    Campomoro

    26 października 2019, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Another lumpy cold trip this time round the south west corner of Corsica, fortunately the sun came out as we arrived and we were able to find a lovely sheltered anchorage out of the swell which on the way was coming from all directions. Even managed a quick dip, before I went in John caught a jellyfish and we checked that it didn’t sting. Umm we must have picked a dud as not long after I got in, wearing rash vest as still not convinced, I got stung on both wrists and one ankle. Not badly it was a bit like a bad nettle sting giving red welts and stinging for about 30 mins, next day could still see it but no pain. Today we went for a walk we were just going to go up to the Genovaise tower on the headland but we were on our way and noticed it wouldn’t be open till 10 so walked around the headland first, going for a quick skinny dip, I even got John in. Then up to the tower, the views were stunning across and into the inlet. We then walked back south along the coast seeing some incredible rick formations before cutting inland, up and along the ridge and back to Campmoro where we were lucky to get the last unreserved table at Chez Pierre Paul where we had an absolutely delicious meal, a bit pricey but would definitely recommend it.
    Tomorrow the plan is to head towards Ajaccio as we hope to take the train inland to Corte, in the middle of the island.     Czytaj więcej

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    Harbour
    CemeteryLighthouseDrawbridge mechanismBonifacio sunsetLooking westish

    Bonifacio

    24 października 2019, Francja ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    We had a horrible crossing from Santa Teresa to Bonifacio sea was all over the place, very rolly, and it RAINED! Thank goodness it was only a two hour trip. We moored up with assistance from the boat next door which was about to depart no idea where the Marina staff were. Sky cleared so we went for a wander up to old town, across drawbridge ( see photo for how they lifted drawbridge) and right out to the point overlooking the harbour entrance. We hadn’t been able to appreciate it on our way in what with wind waves and rain. Then looked in at the cemetery with all it’s mausoleums, it was like a village for small people. Little houses around an open square. After a taster of Corsican Myrtle wine, almost Port like, we went back to boat and then paid o/s port fee we had paid a deposit on line already. OK evening meal but we know we are in France everything is more expensive €68 a night versus €24 in Santa Teresa and latte’s up to €3 or 4 versus €1.50. Hopefully a couple of nights at anchor to even things up. Czytaj więcej

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    Punta Sardegna lighthouse
    Cala Spinosa with Roman QuarryLu Brandali-Nuragic ruinsCapo Testa LighthouseBonificia in the distance

    Santa Teresa di Gallura

    23 października 2019, Włochy ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    So from Caprera we moved west onto Mainland Sardinia first travelling south around San Stefano island which used to be a NATO base, and then along the North of Sardinia, popping into Porto Puddu, which isn’t really a Port just a sheltered anchorage, we were tempted to stay but forecast for next few days even more windy than last few so we knew we wouldn’t want to be travelling and three days of nothing, not even a cafe might be a bit much especially if it was very windy coz then John wouldn’t want to leave the boat. We did stop for a dip and some lunch at Porto Quadro but as wind picked up we headed to Santa Teresa Di Gallura and tied up. The forecaster were right it has been very windy with today being the worst day. Yesterday we did the usual domestics of washing and shopping, but before that I went for a jog, not sure how but have hurt my Achilles so after hobbling to laundromat we took bikes to do shopping. Today with ankle strapped we rode to Capo Testa and visited some Nuragic ruins. Not a term I am familiar with but apparently the structures were built between 14 and 10 century BC. We also visited some towers and the lighthouse. Czytaj więcej

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    Walking map
    Gun emplacement looking SWLooking west from FortLooking west from highest point

    Caprera day 2

    20 października 2019, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    So long walk today, we went from Stagnali on route 5 to Poggia Rasu, which is actually two big forts on the islands east coast, originally 18th century but like the Guernsey ones added to and changed by each subsequent defending force so here there were also concrete influences. We then continued up the East coast on routes 6 to Poggia Zonza and then 7 to Mount Tejalone, the highest point on the island at 212 m, which felt like a long way up and was actually on the cloud line that day, then back down and inland towards Garibaldi’s house, now a museum, to feed the cats we had seen there on the bus ride yesterday, before walking back towards the boat via a cafe for some, we felt well earned, lunch. It was a lovely if very warm day, we walked for about 3-4 hours. Czytaj więcej

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    My next car!
    Looking southLooking south west

    Caprera day 1

    19 października 2019, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Well we decided to ride out the first bit of bad weather at the anchorage on Isla Caprera called Stagnali. Another Cruising Association member had written a good review telling us how to check bus timetable and where the stops were and even more importantly what cafes were open. So the first full day we took the bus into Maddalena Town which took the long way round so we saw a fair bit of the west coast of Caprera and had a wander and bought a few essentials, the main one being milk as were almost out of fresh and our UHT stash as well. That afternoon we also took one of the short walks up to Poggia Bacca, which appeared to be an old military building and older distinctly German looking gun emplacements, for great views to the south and south west of the island. Czytaj więcej

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    Lavezzi Lighthouse?
    Rocks from the cala G. MarinoRicks Cala G. MarinoLanteen rigged boat leaving MaddalenaMaddalena town

    Northern Maddalena group & Isla Caprera

    18 października 2019, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    As much as we wanted to stay we had already bought our permits for the Maddalena Marine Reserve off Northern Sardinia so we headed South and a little East to Cala Giorgio Marino. This an anchorage in the centre of the Northern Magdalena islands wonderfully sheltered with crystal clear water, we took another kayak, there was more rubbish on the beaches but most was wood rather than plastic. We relaxed and sunbathed, debating whether to go further or spend the night here, but we decided to see a little more and headed down the West of Maddalena Island then North around Isla San Stefano past the main town of Maddalena creatively called Maddalena to Cala Stagnali on Isla Caprera where we will spend the night. We have enjoyed a couple of wonderful calm sunshiny days but that is due to change on Sunday, so the debate is whether or not to hightail it back to Bonifacio tomorrow and hide there or ride out the weather here until Thursday? Czytaj więcej

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    Memorial erected by Napoleon IIICala LazarinaRock formations

    Iles Lavezzi

    17 października 2019, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Winds have eased so we decided to head out to one of the Corsican Marine Reserves Iles Lavezzi. After we cleared the headland from our anchorage we realised that there were even more tugs out here than we had seen the first time, then we noticed a cargo boat in an odd location and it all made more sense. The ‘Rhodanus’ had run aground and the tugs and patrol boat were waiting to see if they were needed and securing the area! OK enough excitement we head to Cala Lazarina on Lavezzi, it was beautiful, there were a few people around when we arrived but they had all left by 4:30 leaving only the boats at anchor. The island was a mass of bizarre rock formations from elephant rock, we kayaked around the island and I am sure we could have rented out the kayaks many times over, we got a lot of jealous glances. I am hoping we can go back again but the forecast isn’t great so will have to wait and see. Czytaj więcej

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    First view of the port and citadel
    Looking east along the cliffsThe walk back

    Gurgazu, Golfe de Sant Amanza

    16 października 2019, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Forecast wasn’t great so after our time in Vecchio we headed south stopping for lunch and a dip in Golfe de Rondinara, an almost idyllic horseshoe bay but it was still experiencing swell and the A’s winds due to pick up again we continued South into Golfe de Santa Amanza where there were a few other yachts waiting for the winds to ease off. One poor Frenchman had to set his anchor at least three times, we think was a bit small, he kept dragging. On our way to the anchorage we noticed a couple of tugs and a patrol boat off the coast further south but didn’t know what they were up to at the time. Luckily the wind the next day wasn’t quite as bad as we had feared so John was happy to go for a walk, we got to Bonifacio 70 mins later and after walking up to the old town we had a lovely set menu near the port before walking back a less direct but far more scenic route. Should be back here with the boat soon. Czytaj więcej

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    PortoVecchio

    14 października 2019, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Here are some photos from our walk around the historic old town of Porto Vecchio. The old part was lovely and had some beautiful looking shops, cafes and restaurants we ate a delicious lunch set menu before moving down the hill to the new town to do some grocery shopping. As we were anchored quite a distance from the harbour next to the island on the southern side we used the outboard but for whatever reason it kept cutting out not a problem as restarted each time and wind blowing us into shore anyway, on the way back it was windier and took a while to get engine started but once it did we got most of the way before it stopped and John rowed rest of the way. Once safely onboard John thought he better do a bit of investigative work on the outboard, all was going well until the reconstruction phase when he dropped the little black rubber diaphragm overboard! We won’t be using the outboard again until we find a replacement! Take Five can be seen, just, in both the sea view photos. Czytaj więcej

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    Solenzara and journey to Porto Vecchio

    13 października 2019, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    So yesterday’s journey was a pleasant one patches of sunshine and calm seas just not a lot too see as immediate coastline very very flat. We arrived at Solenzara but they ignored me until I spoke in French when they explained there was a boat show on and there would be fire works later and it was hard to find us a place. They originally suggested we stay the night on the fuel berth but then changed there minds and gave us a mooring, but we had to moor med style with no assistance, I’m just pleased John knows the boats steering so well. I attach a photo of the marina with a cross roughly where we were moored between some big power cruisers and circles showing both the fuel berth and where the fireworks were set off from!
    Today trip was lumpy not sure why as no wind over night and very little as we motored along but there you go. Coastline much more picturesque with mountains in the background, other photo is of lunch stop just north of Porto Vecchio     Czytaj więcej

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    Cathedral of St Mary
    Citadelle entrancePalais of the GovernersRomieu StairsShop in BastiaBastias old port

    Arrivederci Italy, Bonjour France

    10 października 2019, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We decided to head to Corsica though if you saw our plot you would see the decision wasn’t an easy one I kept changing my mind, but the crossing was calm and we arrived without any problems in Bastia on Corsica. We headed for Port Toga and were given an alongside berth. I was a bit confused because he asked if we were sure it would be OK for us! Not sure why alongside would be a problem for anyone but suits us more than stern or bows too that’s for sure. We walked around the Marina and headed in towards the old harbour it was nice to be able to communicate with fewer problems though we both keep thanking people with ‘grazie’.
    We have now done two trips to the supermarket which is just across the road to stock up on heavy goods and are currently in the launderette waiting for our washing to finish, the plan is to then take a walk and see the historic sites of Bastia.     Czytaj więcej

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