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The journey home
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The journey home

It’s going to take a while but we are now heading slowly north and back to beautiful Guernsey Läs mer
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    Aperitif and snacks
    Porto ErcoleSan Phillipe fortPorto Ercole from southern hill

    Marina Cala Galera and Porto Ercole

    5 oktober 2019, Italien ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Well we stayed in Martinella two nights, there was some sort of celebration on Friday night with a live band who sadly didn’t sound very good. We left because the wind had swung round and the waves were rolling in. Per the forecast we should have had alight off shore breeze with no swell but the wind variable and the swell was all over the place so more rolling about. I managed 90mins then had to lie down for most of the rest of the trip across the bay. I did the huge commercial port of Civitavecchia and the powers stations before I crashed out. We tried for a mooring in Porto Ercole but we now realise the pilot book had the narratives the wrong way round and that’s why we couldn’t raise anyone on the radio and even lurking in the harbour with our 46foot steel boat didn’t manage to raise anyone so we headed to the Marina which was still very pleasant. After formalities and a lovely hot shower we walked around the headland to Porto Ercole for an aperitif and to promenade with the locals. There were forts on every hill and headland.Läs mer

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    Elba, Lido de Capoliveri

    6 oktober 2019, Italien ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We had a long (8hour) but uneventful crossing from mainland Italy to the island of Elba. Elba is famous for Napoleons stay and for its opencast iron ore mines the last one of which closed in 1984. Being cheap skates, well wanting only to pay for marinas when necessary we have headed to the southern edge of the island as strong northerlies forecast for tomorrow, Monday and are anchored off Lido de Capoliveri a bay surrounded by ‘campsites’ for Italians this actually means campervan sites not tents but there are lots of People around enjoying the sunshine.Läs mer

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    Martello Tower
    Fort FalconePortoferraio Old TownTeatro de VigilantiFort Stella and lighthouse looking East

    PortoFerraio

    7 oktober 2019, Italien ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today we attempted to catch a bus into the capital Town on Elba, first fail was because operating system on iPad is not modern enough for us to download the bus app, second fail was we couldn’t decipher the bus timetable on the internet, third fail we couldn’t find a local who could understand the timetables at the bus stop, or we found a local but he couldn’t understand the timetable either. Luckily for us his wife had just dropped their son off and was about to go to town and offered us a lift, thank goodness for friendly locals.
    Portoferraio was really interesting with lots of old buildings, we missed out on visiting some of them including the Napoleon museum as we arrived at lunchtime just as it was closing for the day! We did however visit the Martello Tower, Roman Villa remains, Fort Falcone ( this separates the old town of Portoferraio from the rest of the island) and Teatro de Vigilanti, Napoleons theatre built in 1814 renovated recently with only 65 boxes and as many seats. It was really cute.    Läs mer

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    Porto Azzurro
    Corsica in the distancePortoFerraioIsland of MontecristoRemains of open cast mines

    Capoliveri town and headland

    8 oktober 2019, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Here are photos from our walk around Capoliveri headland. It was a gorgeous day, the walk from the boat to the town of Capoliveri was shaded and only one section on a busy road. The town was very picturesque and we enjoyed what was probably going to be our last decent latte while watching the tourists and locals go about there business. We then walked through town at the town hall and then up on to the headland only about 500m elevation but some sections were very steep. The views north across the island to Porto Azzurro and Portoferraio were stunning and we could see Corsica, our next destination, off to the west. We then walked anti-clockwise round main section of the headland seeing lots of bikers, some full gung-ho mountain bikers, others only just off road and lots of hikers and only a few cars. On the SW edge we saw the spoil heaps from the open cast mines as well as vineyards. At the end of our walk we returned to Capoliveri for a delicious if late lunch before ambling back to the boat, this time we managed to avoid the busy road. Wind due to swing round to south early tomorrow so have to decide whether to head to Corsica about 40 Nm away or just go around the island, we love Elba but not sure when our next option to head west will arise so may need to move on.Läs mer

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    Cathedral of St Mary
    Citadelle entrancePalais of the GovernersRomieu StairsShop in BastiaBastias old port

    Arrivederci Italy, Bonjour France

    10 oktober 2019, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We decided to head to Corsica though if you saw our plot you would see the decision wasn’t an easy one I kept changing my mind, but the crossing was calm and we arrived without any problems in Bastia on Corsica. We headed for Port Toga and were given an alongside berth. I was a bit confused because he asked if we were sure it would be OK for us! Not sure why alongside would be a problem for anyone but suits us more than stern or bows too that’s for sure. We walked around the Marina and headed in towards the old harbour it was nice to be able to communicate with fewer problems though we both keep thanking people with ‘grazie’.
    We have now done two trips to the supermarket which is just across the road to stock up on heavy goods and are currently in the launderette waiting for our washing to finish, the plan is to then take a walk and see the historic sites of Bastia.    Läs mer

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    Solenzara and journey to Porto Vecchio

    13 oktober 2019, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    So yesterday’s journey was a pleasant one patches of sunshine and calm seas just not a lot too see as immediate coastline very very flat. We arrived at Solenzara but they ignored me until I spoke in French when they explained there was a boat show on and there would be fire works later and it was hard to find us a place. They originally suggested we stay the night on the fuel berth but then changed there minds and gave us a mooring, but we had to moor med style with no assistance, I’m just pleased John knows the boats steering so well. I attach a photo of the marina with a cross roughly where we were moored between some big power cruisers and circles showing both the fuel berth and where the fireworks were set off from!
    Today trip was lumpy not sure why as no wind over night and very little as we motored along but there you go. Coastline much more picturesque with mountains in the background, other photo is of lunch stop just north of Porto Vecchio    Läs mer

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    PortoVecchio

    14 oktober 2019, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Here are some photos from our walk around the historic old town of Porto Vecchio. The old part was lovely and had some beautiful looking shops, cafes and restaurants we ate a delicious lunch set menu before moving down the hill to the new town to do some grocery shopping. As we were anchored quite a distance from the harbour next to the island on the southern side we used the outboard but for whatever reason it kept cutting out not a problem as restarted each time and wind blowing us into shore anyway, on the way back it was windier and took a while to get engine started but once it did we got most of the way before it stopped and John rowed rest of the way. Once safely onboard John thought he better do a bit of investigative work on the outboard, all was going well until the reconstruction phase when he dropped the little black rubber diaphragm overboard! We won’t be using the outboard again until we find a replacement! Take Five can be seen, just, in both the sea view photos.Läs mer

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    First view of the port and citadel
    Looking east along the cliffsThe walk back

    Gurgazu, Golfe de Sant Amanza

    16 oktober 2019, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Forecast wasn’t great so after our time in Vecchio we headed south stopping for lunch and a dip in Golfe de Rondinara, an almost idyllic horseshoe bay but it was still experiencing swell and the A’s winds due to pick up again we continued South into Golfe de Santa Amanza where there were a few other yachts waiting for the winds to ease off. One poor Frenchman had to set his anchor at least three times, we think was a bit small, he kept dragging. On our way to the anchorage we noticed a couple of tugs and a patrol boat off the coast further south but didn’t know what they were up to at the time. Luckily the wind the next day wasn’t quite as bad as we had feared so John was happy to go for a walk, we got to Bonifacio 70 mins later and after walking up to the old town we had a lovely set menu near the port before walking back a less direct but far more scenic route. Should be back here with the boat soon.Läs mer

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    Memorial erected by Napoleon IIICala LazarinaRock formations

    Iles Lavezzi

    17 oktober 2019, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Winds have eased so we decided to head out to one of the Corsican Marine Reserves Iles Lavezzi. After we cleared the headland from our anchorage we realised that there were even more tugs out here than we had seen the first time, then we noticed a cargo boat in an odd location and it all made more sense. The ‘Rhodanus’ had run aground and the tugs and patrol boat were waiting to see if they were needed and securing the area! OK enough excitement we head to Cala Lazarina on Lavezzi, it was beautiful, there were a few people around when we arrived but they had all left by 4:30 leaving only the boats at anchor. The island was a mass of bizarre rock formations from elephant rock, we kayaked around the island and I am sure we could have rented out the kayaks many times over, we got a lot of jealous glances. I am hoping we can go back again but the forecast isn’t great so will have to wait and see.Läs mer

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    Lavezzi Lighthouse?
    Rocks from the cala G. MarinoRicks Cala G. MarinoLanteen rigged boat leaving MaddalenaMaddalena town

    Northern Maddalena group & Isla Caprera

    18 oktober 2019, Italien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    As much as we wanted to stay we had already bought our permits for the Maddalena Marine Reserve off Northern Sardinia so we headed South and a little East to Cala Giorgio Marino. This an anchorage in the centre of the Northern Magdalena islands wonderfully sheltered with crystal clear water, we took another kayak, there was more rubbish on the beaches but most was wood rather than plastic. We relaxed and sunbathed, debating whether to go further or spend the night here, but we decided to see a little more and headed down the West of Maddalena Island then North around Isla San Stefano past the main town of Maddalena creatively called Maddalena to Cala Stagnali on Isla Caprera where we will spend the night. We have enjoyed a couple of wonderful calm sunshiny days but that is due to change on Sunday, so the debate is whether or not to hightail it back to Bonifacio tomorrow and hide there or ride out the weather here until Thursday?Läs mer

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    My next car!
    Looking southLooking south west

    Caprera day 1

    19 oktober 2019, Italien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Well we decided to ride out the first bit of bad weather at the anchorage on Isla Caprera called Stagnali. Another Cruising Association member had written a good review telling us how to check bus timetable and where the stops were and even more importantly what cafes were open. So the first full day we took the bus into Maddalena Town which took the long way round so we saw a fair bit of the west coast of Caprera and had a wander and bought a few essentials, the main one being milk as were almost out of fresh and our UHT stash as well. That afternoon we also took one of the short walks up to Poggia Bacca, which appeared to be an old military building and older distinctly German looking gun emplacements, for great views to the south and south west of the island.Läs mer

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    Walking map
    Gun emplacement looking SWLooking west from FortLooking west from highest point

    Caprera day 2

    20 oktober 2019, Italien ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    So long walk today, we went from Stagnali on route 5 to Poggia Rasu, which is actually two big forts on the islands east coast, originally 18th century but like the Guernsey ones added to and changed by each subsequent defending force so here there were also concrete influences. We then continued up the East coast on routes 6 to Poggia Zonza and then 7 to Mount Tejalone, the highest point on the island at 212 m, which felt like a long way up and was actually on the cloud line that day, then back down and inland towards Garibaldi’s house, now a museum, to feed the cats we had seen there on the bus ride yesterday, before walking back towards the boat via a cafe for some, we felt well earned, lunch. It was a lovely if very warm day, we walked for about 3-4 hours.Läs mer

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    Punta Sardegna lighthouse
    Cala Spinosa with Roman QuarryLu Brandali-Nuragic ruinsCapo Testa LighthouseBonificia in the distance

    Santa Teresa di Gallura

    23 oktober 2019, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    So from Caprera we moved west onto Mainland Sardinia first travelling south around San Stefano island which used to be a NATO base, and then along the North of Sardinia, popping into Porto Puddu, which isn’t really a Port just a sheltered anchorage, we were tempted to stay but forecast for next few days even more windy than last few so we knew we wouldn’t want to be travelling and three days of nothing, not even a cafe might be a bit much especially if it was very windy coz then John wouldn’t want to leave the boat. We did stop for a dip and some lunch at Porto Quadro but as wind picked up we headed to Santa Teresa Di Gallura and tied up. The forecaster were right it has been very windy with today being the worst day. Yesterday we did the usual domestics of washing and shopping, but before that I went for a jog, not sure how but have hurt my Achilles so after hobbling to laundromat we took bikes to do shopping. Today with ankle strapped we rode to Capo Testa and visited some Nuragic ruins. Not a term I am familiar with but apparently the structures were built between 14 and 10 century BC. We also visited some towers and the lighthouse.Läs mer

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    Harbour
    CemeteryLighthouseDrawbridge mechanismBonifacio sunsetLooking westish

    Bonifacio

    24 oktober 2019, Frankrike ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    We had a horrible crossing from Santa Teresa to Bonifacio sea was all over the place, very rolly, and it RAINED! Thank goodness it was only a two hour trip. We moored up with assistance from the boat next door which was about to depart no idea where the Marina staff were. Sky cleared so we went for a wander up to old town, across drawbridge ( see photo for how they lifted drawbridge) and right out to the point overlooking the harbour entrance. We hadn’t been able to appreciate it on our way in what with wind waves and rain. Then looked in at the cemetery with all it’s mausoleums, it was like a village for small people. Little houses around an open square. After a taster of Corsican Myrtle wine, almost Port like, we went back to boat and then paid o/s port fee we had paid a deposit on line already. OK evening meal but we know we are in France everything is more expensive €68 a night versus €24 in Santa Teresa and latte’s up to €3 or 4 versus €1.50. Hopefully a couple of nights at anchor to even things up.Läs mer

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    View from the Tower

    Campomoro

    26 oktober 2019, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Another lumpy cold trip this time round the south west corner of Corsica, fortunately the sun came out as we arrived and we were able to find a lovely sheltered anchorage out of the swell which on the way was coming from all directions. Even managed a quick dip, before I went in John caught a jellyfish and we checked that it didn’t sting. Umm we must have picked a dud as not long after I got in, wearing rash vest as still not convinced, I got stung on both wrists and one ankle. Not badly it was a bit like a bad nettle sting giving red welts and stinging for about 30 mins, next day could still see it but no pain. Today we went for a walk we were just going to go up to the Genovaise tower on the headland but we were on our way and noticed it wouldn’t be open till 10 so walked around the headland first, going for a quick skinny dip, I even got John in. Then up to the tower, the views were stunning across and into the inlet. We then walked back south along the coast seeing some incredible rick formations before cutting inland, up and along the ridge and back to Campmoro where we were lucky to get the last unreserved table at Chez Pierre Paul where we had an absolutely delicious meal, a bit pricey but would definitely recommend it.
    Tomorrow the plan is to head towards Ajaccio as we hope to take the train inland to Corte, in the middle of the island.    Läs mer

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    Approach to Ajaccio and MSC cruise ship
    View from trainCorte Citadelle from BelvedereCitadelle from SentierRestonica Valley

    Ajaccio/Corte

    28 oktober 2019, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We arrived in Ajaccio around 16:00 after an extended lunch stop on the southern edge of the gulf where we tried to clean the hull of some the slime that had built over over the summer on the river. We had tried to book a berth at both of the marinas using the Corsican booking-site, emails and telephone but had received no responses and could raise anyone on the VHF either. Umm well we headed to the innermost marina and went in for a look around, the pilot book said visitors should take Beth’s on the port side on entry, this was full of motorboats. We tied up on the fuel dock and a shot over to the capitainerie, closed on sundays! We headed out slowly looking at the empty berths most had ropes in place but we noticed one between the motorboats that was vacant and as it was now nearly 17:00 we decided to risk it. It wasn’t until 19:00 that a very polite man on a bike asked us to move as we were in a private marina and the spot we were booked in was reserved with the boat due to arrive shortly. We had our tea in the oven so switched on the gennie and prepared to leave. Oh sorry said the man it’s OK you can stay the other boat has called to say they are not coming after all. Great news so we got a free night. The next morning we telephoned the other marina and they had a place immediately, so we headed around, moored, paid showered coffeed and still managed to catch the 11:00 train to Corte. Corte is in the middle of the island almost surrounded by mountains ⛰. The train ride was great, high and winding and Corte very interesting, it has the only inland Citadelle on Corsica the other 12 are on the coast. I took a dip in the river in the Restonica Valley, we were only able to do a short walk around the town due to time and access restrictions but we had a wonderful people watching lunch. On the walk we passed random Mausoleums (private tombs) very odd.Läs mer

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    Liscia

    29 oktober 2019, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Well having completed a shop before we left at Carrefour we are now on the final leg of our Corsican adventure heading North from Ajaccio towards Calvi. We have stopped over night in Liscia and expect to get to Calvi on Thursday. From there we intend to travel to the French mainland arriving at Beaulieu-sur-Mer just to the West of Monaco 🇲🇨. The forecast isn’t great but the best option looks like an overnighter on Friday leaving teatime ish to arrive in the morning on Saturday. If we don’t go then the next break may come next Wednesday but that’s so far away it’s hard to know if that break will actually happen or not. Here are a couple of photos I took on the way out of Ajaccio on our way here.Läs mer

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    Looking out the bay
    Girolata fortTake Five moored upChristmas bauble tree

    Girolata

    30 oktober 2019, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Sadly I woke at 03:30 because we were rolling so much, not good, we lasted until 06:30 then as it was light enough to see we got up and got underway munching on a banana each in lieu of breakfast. Fortunately we found a small sheltered cove by 08:00 and dropped anchor so John could have his morning cuppa and toast, he is definitely a happier person with tea inside him. We now know that it is more important to shelter from the swell than the wind, which seems to drop away overnight anyway. This means we will be rethinking our original overnight anchorage plan for tonight. We continued along the west coast but decided against hugging the coastline as there were some very large bays and we needed to reach shelter before dark at about 18:00. Coastline was impressive though with some very red rocks. We decided to head for a Girolata as it appeared to be only sheltered spot even though in theory there were mooring buoys we would have to pay for. John informed me the approach was stunning but due to the swell I was having a lie down, the bay itself was lovely but the book says in season they squeeze in more than 100 boats that I cant imagine. A man came out as we arrived and we confirmed we wanted to stay the night ‘you are lucky it is free now as everything is closed’ great news he even gave us permission to tie up on one of the jetties. Well another day so another walk, we headed up following the path towards Galeria knowing that as it was 6 hours away we would have to retrace our steps but the views were stunning, the contrast of the red rocks and the green vegetation was impressive we definitely headed up as we were just below the clouds when we returned around.Läs mer

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    Calvi

    31 oktober 2019, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Final Corsican Port, the plan is still to head off tomorrow afternoon towards mainland France. The scenery on this part of the trip also good and as a bit calmer I took some photos to show you all. Calvi has a Citadelle which looks good as well, sadly the sun isn’t shining as I sure it would look more impressive if it was. We have had a quick walk around town and the Citadelle and had our most expensive lattes for a while, €4.80 each, they were good but at that price we would have sent them back if they weren’t. Might get in another stroll tomorrow but forecast is for rain so we will wait and see.Läs mer

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    Notre Dame de Serra
    View south westView of Notre Dame de Serra from boat

    Calvi

    1 november 2019, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We checked the forecast again and we either cross to the mainland later today or not for a week so we will chance it later but first of all a quick bit of shopping. Bugger the French have a National holiday on 1 Nov so only the Spar is open, a really quick shop then, on the plus that means Marina office is closed so no need to leave the berth until we actually want to head across the water. After shopping we decide to ride/walk to Chapelle Notre Dame de Serra on the hill overlooking town, we had seen this from the other side too. The ride bit was OK then it got very steep, then it became a gravel path, then more a water run off than a path and hauling the bikes up was a trial but great views at the top. Back down via the road and then a shower before the off. I have my sea bands, tablets and ginger biscuits all ready!Läs mer

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    Beaulieu-Sur -Mer

    2 november 2019, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We made it 92Nm and 16hours later, it wasn’t the worst crossing but definitely not the nicest either fortunately all my preparation helped and I was able to do all my shifts. We could see the glow of the French coast from about 40miles out, that’s the first time in ages. We arrived early and tied up to the fuel pontoon for a nap while we waited for everyone to wake up. At 9 we tried to radio, no response, and then phone the harbour office, sims now invalid! The lady manning the fuel pontoon called for us and it looks like we got the last spot in the Marina. Breakfast and then check in and watched the Rugby World Cup final, not a bad game but quite bitty, the staff commiserated with us on the result. Lunch and then a stroll to the Cap Ferrat headland. We thought about visiting the Rothschild Villa but decided not to. It started to hammer down so we stopped for coffee, when will I learn, even with a sweetener I couldn’t drink it!Läs mer

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    Monte Carlo Casino
    Monaco MarinaCathedralPrinces PalacePower cables for the superyachts

    Monaco

    3 november 2019, Monaco ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    John has never been and I only visited for a few hours so we decided to visit Monaco 🇲🇨 and add another country to our blog. We almost didn’t get there as initially we were waiting for the bus, where we had seen it stop yesterday, when a kind local advised that there was diversion in place and buses weren’t going this way. OK no problem we will get the train, ticket office closed, machine only takes cards and coins, just not my card. We got to supermarket with 5 mins to spare and they gave us change, we bought the tickets and there was the train, a double decker.
    Monaco was very clean, very expensive and a real mix of buildings the beautiful older ones and lots of high-rise flats but interesting non the less. The boats in the main Marina were huge. The Cathedral was impressive white stone was used for the elaborate exterior but internally it was grey and more utilitarian. I can’t believe the interior of the Casino the nasty neon slot machines against the beautiful mouldings. We might have had a flutter but neither of know how to use the slots now that there are all the extra buttons.    Läs mer

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    Promenade d'AnglaisRussian Cathedrale of St NicholasJam shop

    Nice in Nice

    4 november 2019, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    So this time we took a bus and headed south to Nice, stopping at the Port and walking around the headland and up to the view point for a great look out over the city. We were lucky enough to watch an inshore lifeboat rescue display, the conditions were perfect high winds and big seas. Then we mooched around the flea market, nothing took our fancy. Next across town via the old town to the Russian Cathedral, incredible bit of architecture, before heading to the coast and along the Promenade. On the way towards the train station we saw some lovely old buildings and some nasty newer ones, we took train back as it was near the Decathlon store we went to so John could buy some warm joggers, he is getting nervous about the weather. A local guy helped us work the train ticket machine, he was a dear.Läs mer

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