Modena: A Day Trip from Bologna

When we were in Bologna last fall, we went on two day trips — by train … to Ferrara and to Rimini. Today it was Modena’s turn.

Like the previous two day trips, today’s outing was of an exploratory nature … just to see what the place has to offer before we return for a longer visit.

Modena, roughly northwest of Bologna, is 31 minutes by train. Well, technically, it would take 20 minutes to get there if you take the Freccerossa … the fast train. We didn’t think, however, that it was worth paying €34 (one way) for the two of us just to shave 11 minutes off the ride. Instead, we bought TTPER regional train tickets for €9 each way for the two of us.

Shortly before 11:00a, we detrained at Modena Centrale … a short walk from Modena’s Centro Storico. The sun was out; the temperature comfortable; the walk pleasant along streets lined with colorful buildings.

Soon, we were in Piazza Roma, which is overlooked by Palazzo Ducale. The grand edifice, once the residence of the Estense Court and one of the most important royal palazzos of the 17th century, now houses the Italian Military Academy.

From Piazza Roma, we walked along side streets … unsurprisingly, quiet even on a Saturday since the tourist season is not yet in full swing. Most of the people we encountered were families out to enjoy the day. A quick peek inside Chiesa di San Giorgio, and then we continued to Piazza Grande, the very heart of Centro Storico.

Everything we read said that the Duomo (cathedral) should be our first stop. That was indeed our intention. However, thinking that there might be a better vantage point to photograph the Duomo from a terrace at the Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall Municipal Palace), we decided a detour was in order.

What we thought would be a quick stop at the Palazzo Comunale, turned into a visit of the rooms open to the public … and deserves its own footprint. As does our next stop, the Duomo. Thus, moving on.

Mui really enjoys visiting markets, so our steps next took us to Mercato Storico Albinelli (Historic Albinelli Market). This covered market — with beautiful wrought ironwork on the façade overlooking Via Albinelli — was built in 1931. Constructed in the Liberty style, it houses the market that used to be held in Piazza Grande. A beautiful fountain in the center; several aisles of stalls filled with fresh and colorful produce, meats, cheeses, fish, and more … a great place to not just visit, but shop as well … though we didn’t do so today.

It was getting on towards 1:30p when we left the market and headed to Emilia Bistrò on Piazza Roma for our lunch reservation. The place was packed when we arrived … glad we booked ahead ... especially since the kitchen was due to close at 2:30p. Despite its location on a popular square, the place oozed ‘local’ charm. In fact, we didn’t hear anything but Italian being spoken.

Seated at a two-top, we enjoyed a delicious meal accompanied by a glass of wine. Opting to start with an antipasti, we ordered the fried zucchini flowers, served with a citrus mayo. I ordered just a primi piatti as I am wont to do … in this case, hand-made tortellini in a capon broth; Mui got the braised beef cheek with balsamic pearl onions and julienned artichokes + a side of grilled vegetables … zucchini and eggplant. We wrapped up with what the server described as a Modena chocolate cake served on a bed of mascarpone cream. Yummy!

It was getting on towards 3:00p when we left Emilia Bistrò. The temperature, which we had noticed earlier had cooled down from this morning, was now downright chilly. We put on our puffy jackets and headed to the train station for the return trip to Bologna.

Although we arrived with five minutes to spare before the 3:06p train was scheduled to depart, the app would not let us buy tickets for it. Knowing that tickets purchased on the app can be changed until the train departs, we quickly bought tickets for the next train leaving in ½-hour and immediately changed the time to the 3:06p train. Worked like a charm.

An uneventful train ride to Bologna … a walk on quiet backstreets from Bologna Centrale to the apartment … time to put up our feet and rest.

We really enjoyed our exploratory day trip to Modena and look forward to returning … maybe do a balsamic tasting tour … or visit the Ferrari Factory nearby … or check out the museums.Læs mere