• Bergen: Fløibanen & Mt Fløyen

    August 5 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    Bergen has always welcomed us with rain and cool temperatures.

    That has gotten in the way of accomplishing two things.

    Bundled up as the women were against the elements, Mui has not been able to confirm the claim made by an 82-year-old British gent that Bergen is home to the world’s most beautiful women. (We were on a Celebrity cruise at the time, and his wife’s reaction when the man made this proclamation is still something that makes us smile.)

    Kidding aside, the weather conditions on those previous visits led to the cancelation of our plans to ride the Fløibanen. This time, we were bound and determined to ride the funicular that takes visitors up to the top of Mt Fløyen (1,050 feet/320m asl). Since the rain looked like it was going to give us a break, we decided to go up today despite the lack of blue skies and sunshine.

    The plan was to hike down, so we joined the short queue to purchase one-way tickets to the top station. If the weather got in the way of doing so, we could always purchase return tickets at the top.

    Tickets in hand, we joined the longer, but fast-moving queue of people waiting to board the funicular for the 6-minute ride to the top of the mountain. We didn’t have to wait long to take our turn. Mui had scoped out the funicular while we were waiting and we decided to take the bottom car since the top car was set aside for persons with disabilities. We even managed to score one of the two-person seats … a great vantage point to videotape the ride.

    At the top, we wandered over to the stepped-terrace to enjoy the views. Yes, blue skies and sunshine would have made for some magnificent scenery, but the moody ambiance of the expansive views was more representative of Bergen.

    Before setting off on our hike, we
    decided lunch was in order. There’s a café and a restaurant from which to choose. We headed to Fløirestauranten, slightly fancier — though still casual. Despite the chill, we would have sat on the terrace, but the only food service there was burgers and sandwiches from the bar. Not what we wanted. Luckily, even though we didn’t have reservations, the hostess was able to seat us in the dining room.

    Yes, it was touristy. Yes, it was expensive. But it was worth it.

    I wasn’t very hungry, so I ordered the tomato & ricotta sandwich … local tomatoes, rucola pesto, and crunchy seeds on a rustic bread … open face … sort of like an Italian bruschetta with a twist. When Mui noticed the halibut on the menu, his decision was quickly made … served with amandine-style green beans and steamed potatoes. Dessert consisted of three scoops of ice cream served on a crunchy chocolate crumble base … chocolate, vanilla, and a Nordic berry known as sea buckthorn (aka seaberry) … slightly tart. It was all yummy, yummy!

    There are a number of trails that one can follow to hike down the mountain … we opted to take the one marked for the city center … our waitress said it had the best views.

    But before we began our descent, we went to meet the goats of Mount Fløyen.

    The 6-year old cashmere goats were born on Radøy … bred primarily to clear vegetation. They are free to wander on the mountain … within an area restricted by a virtual fence that is commonly used for grazing livestock in Norway. Visitors are encouraged to play with them … and the goats seem to welcome the attention … or at least stoically accept the multitude of hands petting them. The only rule one must obey … no feeding of the goats!

    After that bit of fun, we headed toward the trailhead … walking past a children’s playground … quite large, and very popular. We let the kids enjoy the equipment, but could resist neither the photo op with Fløytrollet (the Fløyen Troll) … nor a wander through Trollskogen, the troll forest filled with mystical, enchanted wood carvings.

    Eventually, we found ourselves on the trail. Down, down, down for just about 2 miles … at first dirt; paved the closer we got to the city center. At this point, the rain that had given us a break started once more to fall. But it was light, and the trees provided enough coverage that we needed umbrellas only part of the time. Never did break out our rain jackets.

    The last bit of the trail either winds through narrow residential streets … or we somehow took a detour. The streetscape with wooden houses and cobblestone alleys was charming. We had planned to stroll through the hillside neighborhoods, so we enjoyed ourselves … eventually coming out right next to the Fløibanen city station.

    Thus wrapping up our day, we headed back to the apartment. Arriving just before the skies opened up in a downpour that is still continuing. Mui prepared dinner to kick off a quiet evening … need to rest up for more Bergen exploration tomorrow.
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