Escape the Heat (August ‘26)

… Day 1 being embarkation in Bergen.

Overnight Stops: Flørø & Maløy.

Went to bed with pouring rain. Woke up with pouring rain. I’ve read that this can be a recurring theme on these coastal voyages. We’re here to escape the heat that is plaguing much of Europe, so I will try not to complain about the ongoing ‘liquid sunshine’ that is dogging our steps. Or is it the other way around and we are following in the wake of the rain? In any event, I’ll issue a ‘bulk apology’ in advance for all the rain drops that will likely be streaking through the photos I’ll be taking.

Got a very good night’s rest. We could barely feel m/s Havila Castor move through the sea as it mostly hugged the coastline, weaving its way through the islands along the Norwegian coast.

The ship’s eco-friendly propulsion system — LNG and electric batteries — ensured a quiet night.. Even the two stops we made in the wee hours of the morning at Florø and Måløy didn’t disturb our sleep … even though our portside cabin is the third one to the aft of the cargo bay hatch.

Mui was up around 6:00a for his morning coffee … from the machines on deck 6. I stayed abed for another hour and then joined him for breakfast … open seating starting at 7:00a. This is the only meal where there is a buffet … hot dishes, such as eggs and pancakes, ordered off the menu and served at the table … as is juice and hot beverages.

Yes, we tried the “brunost” … brown cheese … which isn’t cheese really. At least not in the sense that we think of cheese., Wikipedia describes this iconic Norwegian food as “… made by boiling down the whey, milk, and cream of goat's milk, cow's milk, or a mix of both. The long cooking process caramelizes the milk sugars (lactose), giving it a dense, fudge-like texture and a sweet, caramel-like flavor.” We liked it … but I am not sure ‘it likes me’ 😊

By the time we were ready to proceed with the rest of the day, the ship was ready to call on Torvik … on the islands of Leinøya. There is no town near the dock. Rather it’s all farms … so what you see is limited. Nonetheless … a peaceful setting and I’m glad we got a glimpse of a place that we would unlikely to be visiting otherwise.Read more

“Fight to the very end (..). It is the story of a hero. … That's why I want these tapestries to be gathered in one place, where people can come and see them-and they shall stand as a tribute to our heroes from the last war, those who did not falter, but fought to the very end. ~~ from Ragna Breivik’s interview in the local newspaper, Bergen Tidende, 20 May 1949 ~~

“Tales in Thread” read the sign at the gate where one scans the Bryggens Museum admission ticket to access the temporary exhibition on the second floor.

They called Ragna Breivik “Munthe’s little weaver” because she based her tapestry designs on many of Gerhard Munthe’s paintings. For that reason, some claimed that “an independent artistic vision was out of the question.” Others disagreed, pointing to her skill in carrying her faith into her work and her interpretation of the scenes she was weaving. As one of the signs explained, “… the interplay of weaving techniques and the nuanced shades of dyed yarn lent her works a depth and movement that is uniquely her own.”

Breivik’s Åsmund Frægdagjeva tapestry series, which secured her place in Norwegian and international textile art, is a “quintessential example of the so-called saga style inspired by the Norse Era, which emerged in the late 19" century.” That said, she weaved the tapestries during the period between 1924-1949.

In the 1930s and 40s, the Nazis used the saga style for propaganda. Thus, after the end of WWII, many people distanced themselves from such art. This was likely the reason why the Åsmund Fragdagjeva tapestries — which had “…become a symbol of both the war and the resistance movement” — did not receive the recognition many felt they deserved. After Breivik’s death in 1965, the tapestries were stored away until they found a home at the Hordamuseet. (The tapestries will be returned to that museum after the temporary exhibition at the Bryggens Museum ends in December 2026.)

The exhibition is set up in two parts. The first section is an introduction to Ragna Breivik and the art of tapestry weaving. Then, you round the corner into the other half of the room where the tapestries hang in the order in which the story is told … though I found it interesting that they weren’t woven in order.

Beautiful work … despite the gruesome nature of the saga style theme.

⚜️⚜️⚜️⚜️⚜️⚜️⚜️⚜️⚜️⚜️⚜️⚜️⚜️⚜️

Since, it would be impossible to fit the story told by each tapestry in the photo caption, I am adding it below … with a number reference. The words are taken from the descriptive panel for each tapestry. The date refers to when the tapestry was woven. (As a side note, I found the blue curtain and other items behind the tapestries distracting, so I blacked out the background during post-processing.)

(1) The King of Ireland Needs Help
Thou shalt go north to Trollebotten and free my daughter from peril (1923)

The King of Ireland’s daughter, Ermelin, is trapped in Trollebotten. Many have tried to rescue her, but all have failed. No one dares make another attempt. The king’s men then point to the fearless Åsmund, but even he is not particularly enthusiastic about the task. “What have I done to deserve such a fate?” he asks. Yet, when promised the princess’s hand in marriage, Åsmund is nevertheless persuaded.

(2) The Journey to Trollebotten
They did not lower the sail until they spotted Trollebotten (1941)

Along with his two brothers, Åsmund sails out on the king”s largest and finest ship, Ormen Lange. Its gilded silk sails will not rest until they reach their destination. The journey north is fraught with trials, but Åsmund keeps their spirits up. At last, they reach Trollebotten, a land where the sun never rises.

(3) Åsmund Enters the Mountain
We would rather guard your ship beneath the cliffs (1939)

When they reach Trollebotten, the brothers do not dare enter the mountain to rescue the king's daughter. “We shall guard the ship,” they suggest instead. Åsmund must go alone. He leaves his fine clothes behind so that they will not be ruined. Instead, he dons a tattered old cloak. With his sword raised, he walks towards the dark opening in the mountain.

(4) The First Hall (1949)

Inside the mountain it is cold and dark. Countless halls stretch before him. Åsmund enters the first one. The hall is empty and quiet, but there is no doubt there has been a party here. The tablecloths are drenched in blood. and black serpents slither across them. Without a sound, he moves on.

(5) The Trolls at the Cauldron
The Second Hall (1929)

In the next hall, the first trolls are waiting. Massive cauldrons are steaming, bubbling, and brewing dark enchantments. The horrible creatures have long noses and sharp claws. In Breivik's tapestry, they symbolize the Nazis. One of them also bears a suspicious resemblance to Fridtjof Nansen — the polar explorer who, in 1919, married Gerhard Munthe’s former wife, Sigrun. Åsmund strikes down the trolls, every single one of them.

(6) The Princess & the Troll Woman
The Third Hall (1931)

Åsmund is tired and falls asleep on one of the beds in the third hall. When he wakes, the beautiful Princess Ermelin stands before him, her hair glittering like gold. She warns him of the fearsome Skomegyvri — a being who has previously battled the Viking god Thor and Saint Olaf. Suddenly, the troll storms in to slay the intruder. But Åsmund does not cower. After an exchange of sharp words, he cleaves Skomegyvri in two with a glowing sword.

(7) A Mysterious Horse
The Fourth Hall (1946)

With Skomegyvri defeated, Åsmund leads Ermelin from the mountain to the shore. But the ship is gone — his brothers have fled. They go back inside, and in the fourth hall they find a magnificent horse. The creature promises to carry them home in exchange for Åsmund’s right hand when they arrive. Reluctantly, he agrees.

(8) Battle of the Trolls
The Fifth Hall (1945)

Before they leave, Åsmund asks Princess Ermelin to gather what gold and treasure she can. He himself goes on a rampage against the trolls gathered in the fifth hall. None escape his wrath. The rattling sound of the iron rings fastened along the edge of the table is deafening. By the time he leaves, the hall is awash in blood and troll guts.

(9) The Treasure
Then he took as much silver and gold as he could find (1947)

Princess Ermelin and Åsmund collect all the silver and gold they can find before riding toward Ireland.

(10) The Homecoming
And then he rode across the wide sea (1933)

From the castle, the king and queen see Åsmund and Princess Ermelin riding across the sea. They get off the horse on the beach, and the horse asks Åsmund to chop off its head. Åsmund does as he is told. In the next moment, a man stands before them — it is Adelbert, the king's youngest son. What happens next, no one knows, but Åsmund and Ermelin probably live happily ever after.Read more