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2019 Nautical Explorations
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun

2019 Nautical Explorations

After our self-drive trip around Ireland, we embarked Oceania's Nautica for 50 days. Our extended voyage consisted of multiple segments that took us to places around Europe ... both new- and old-to-us. Les mer
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  • Reisens start
    5. juli 2019
    2019 Nautical Explorations
    A cool-weather summer cruise on Nautica.

    Leg 1: Northern Glow

    5. juli 2019, Irland ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    This phase of our 2019 overseas jaunts consists of two cruises booked back-to-back on Oceania’s Nautica. Hence the name of the trip — “Nautical Explorations.”

    The segment we are embarking today in Dublin, Ireland will take us up and around Norway with a dip into Russia. After a few more Norwegian ports on the way south, the cruise will end in Denmark, Copenhagen.Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Bay-window ledge in lieu of a veranda on this cruise — Oceania Nautica.
    1Cabin 4052 ... spliting the bed makes for a more spacious cabin — Oceania Nautica.Cabin 4052 ... en suite facilities are small but adequate — Oceania Nautica.

    Our Oceanview Cabin

    5. juli 2019, Irish Sea ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    We were onboard Nautica well before our appointed time. Lunch was at the Terrace Café ... with our friends — Bill & Star and Sonia & Boris. We met both couples on the 2017 world cruise. Sonia and Boris’s longtime friends, Sofia & Stalik, joined us as well.

    Much of the afternoon was spent getting settled into our respective cabins, with time set aside to attend the mandatory muster drill when the ship’s horn sounded the alarm.

    At 7:00p, Nautica quietly slipped her mooring lines. As the ship headed out to the Irish Sea, we rejoined our friends for a group dinner at the Polo Grill.

    And so our voyage has begun!

    (Oddly, I have no photos from today except for those I took of the cabin.)    Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations

    Day At Sea

    6. juli 2019, Inner Seas off the West Coast of Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    When Nautica left Dublin last night, we had some 540 NM to go to our next port of call. That’s a distance that requires a day at sea . No problem, we love such days.

    In all these years of sailing, one thing hasn’t changed. And that is the swiftness with which a day at sea seems to fly by for us. Today was no exception.

    After meeting up with our friends for breakfast in the Terrace Café, we all went about our own plans .... some together ... some separately. That, to us, is the best way to share a cruise with friends. Do things together when interests and plans coincide ... but not joined at the hip all the time.

    Our activities kicked off with an M&G [meet & greet] to get to know fellow-passengers whom we had met “virtually” on the CruiseCritic roll call. Then came several lectures — two that we enjoyed ... one that wasn’t our cup of tea. Quiet time — reading and writing — was also part of the day. In between, we had lunch at the Terrace Café and partook of afternoon tea in the Horizons Lounge.

    We wrapped up our day with dinner with our friends in the Grand Dining Room; listened to the classical music quartet in the lobby; and went to see Alan Kavanagh, headlining in the theater. His rendition of “Oh Danny Boy” was especially delightful.

    Tomorrow is the first of a run of four ports of call coming up. We’ll be stepping foot on Scottish soil for the first time.    Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Welcome to the Shetlands - Welcome to Scotland — Lerwick, Shetland Islands.
    We stay in town to explore on foot — Lerwick, Shetland Islands.

    Welcome to Lerwick (Shetland Islands)

    7. juli 2019, Skottland ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Our first port of call of the cruise ... Lerwick ... the capital of the Shetland Islands ... the easternmost town of Scotland ... the northernmost town of the UK.

    First time setting foot in Scotland.

    With Nautica docked at Mair’s Pier, Mui and I spent the day exploring Lerwick on foot ... creating our own path by combining the route marked in red on the map with the black-dotted route that took us to The Knab and beyond.    Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Love these "Mary Poppins chimneys" — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.
    Most of these sandstone buildings date back to the 18th century — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.2Items featuring the Shetland sheep are plentiful — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.Mosaic mural @ Victoria Pier — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.Lerwick waterfront scene as we head to the Lodberries — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.Peaceful harbor view — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland."Da Lightsome Buoy" ... celebrates Shetland's pelagic fishing industry — Lerwick ... Shetland.The Shetland Library is housed in a 19th century church — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.The Town Hall has beautiful stained glass windows, but it is closed today — Lerwick ... Shetland.

    A-Wander in Lerwick

    7. juli 2019, Skottland ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Mui and I set off from Nautica around 9:00a ... cold at 37F ... windy at times ... the sun barely peeking out but mostly hiding behind the clouds ... damp as well.

    As it was Sunday, the shops and such were closed ... only an occasional glimpse of the locals who live in what the Shetland website describes as “the only town” in these Scottish islands. Very few fellow passengers wandering around town ... most likely on tours going to places outside of town.

    The first part of our DIY exploration was a stroll through Lerwick ... the name of which comes from Leir Wick and means “Muddy Bay.”    Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    2Lodberries ... home of Jimmy Perez in the BBC series, "Shetland" — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.
    Along the coastal road in the Lodberries — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.Lodberries ... boat as a roof? — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.So many charming decorations and pots in one garden — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.The Knab Walk ... looking across to Bressay Island — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.1Colorful flowers decorate our first glimpse of The Knab — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.The promontory appropriately named "The Knab" — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.Panorama of the Knab and the Horse of the Knab — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.A "we are in Shetland" selfie — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.The Lerwick Cemetery ... high above The Knab — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.

    Lerwick: “Lodberries” & “The Knab”

    7. juli 2019, Skottland ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Our stroll through town took us through the Lodberries — old traders’ homes with attached shops — to a paved path that led us to “The Knab.” The name of the promontory, which juts into Bressay Sound, comes from Old Norse and appropriately means “projecting knoll or crag.”

    The path took us along the rugged coastline to an overlook from which we enjoyed views of the sound and the “Horse of the Knab.” Nearby we found the ruins of WWI military defenses and the Lerwick Cemetery.    Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Looking across the Bight of the Sletts to the Knab — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.
    A "we are at Da Sletts" selfie — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.Looking across Brei Wick from Da Sletts — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.2Mama harbor seal with pup on the rocks of Da Sletts — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.Mama common eider and her brood at Da Sletts — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.

    Lerwick: “Da Sletts”

    7. juli 2019, Skottland ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    As we cut through the golf course near The Knab, we got caught in a fast-moving squall that left us drenched. The good news? We were dressed in foul weather gear ... rain pants and slickers. Thus we stayed dry on the inside and were able to continue our explorations a-foot.

    We continued our walk on the paved path fronting “Da Sletts” ... sedimentary rocks that have been eroded into flat surfaces where seals love to sunbathe.    Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Lunch in Lerwick — Shetland, Scotland.

    Lerwick: Lunch Time!

    7. juli 2019, Skottland ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    My pre-cruise research had suggested that an espresso bar called Fjarå would be a good place to grab a bite to eat. When this was confirmed by a Shetlander we chatted with at The Knab, we headed there for lunch. The place overlooked Da Sletts and was a local hangout rather than a touristy place ... a bonus.

    The place was hopping when we arrived shortly before the breakfast menu changed to the lunch menu.

    Mui ordered the fish-sans-chips … made with haddock. I got the Fjarå ALT … a vegetarian BLT on a toasted bagel … with avocado in lieu of bacon. I added buffalo mozzarella to the mix. We were both pleased with our selections. I ordered a beer brewed in Lerwick — Azure … which the label on the bottle described as a light, hoppy ale. Truthfully, I didn’t care for it … too hoppy for my taste. Mui had an iced coffee that he said was quite good.    Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Lodberries as Nautica leaves Lerwick — Shetland, Scotland.
    The Mareel Cinema & Music Venue on the foreshore — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.One of the Shetland ferries coming into Lerwick — Shetland, Scotland.The Lodberries with Town Hall on the hill — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.The Knab and Lerwick Cemetery from our vantage point on the ship — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.Seagulls nesting in the cliffs — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.One of the hamlets on the island — Shetland, Scotland.

    Sailaway from Lerwick

    7. juli 2019, North Sea ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    After lunch, we took a roundabout way back to Mair’s Pier where Nautica was docked. By this time, the damp cold had seeped into our bones. A cup of hot tea at the Horizons Lounge was in order. This was also a good spot from which to watch our sailaway from Lerwick.

    Our group split up for dinner tonight. Sonia and Boris went to Toscana to celebrate Stalik’s 80th birthday. We joined Bill & Star at the Terrace Café where mussels, picked up locally by the chef, were prepared in a Guinness broth.    Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Tasty treats from our friend, Chef Farid — En Route from Shetland to Norway.

    Surprise from Chef Farid!

    7. juli 2019, North Sea ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    When we returned to our cabin after dinner there was a surprise awaiting us from our friend, Chef Farid.

    Farid was the Executive Chef on the world cruise we did on Oceania’s Insignia in 2017. Though we’ve run into several of the crew members from that voyage since embarking Nautica in Dublin, Farid isn’t one of them.

    But he knew of our plans for this cruise and gifted us with a tasty treat. We’ve already eaten the chocolate-dipped strawberries. The champagne is waiting to be shared with our friends soon.

    Next up: Bergen, Norway ... 186 NM away.    Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations

    Cha Ching! Mui Visits the Med Center

    8. juli 2019, Norge ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    The conjunctivitis and sinus infection that has been plaguing Mui since our departure from Turkey — and through the first part of our self-drive in Ireland — is back!

    Nautica was on course to its berth in Bergen, Norway when Mui went across the hall to the medical center. Dr “call me Salinas” Mauricio ran some tests and determined that the sinus infection was bacterial ... the eye infection viral. He prescribed the appropriate medication and sat Mui down for an inhalation treatment to help drain the sinuses faster. Mui will get another cannula of meds this evening.Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    A Norwegian troll mural welcomes us to Bergen, Norway.
    Bryggen ... Bergen's 11th century UNESCO World Heritage Site — Norway.Tourist map to help guide us around Bergen, Norway.

    Welcome to Bergen (Norway)

    8. juli 2019, Norge ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Our second port of call ... Bergen ... the gateway to the fjords of Norway!

    Mui and I were off the ship around 10:00a. Just as it had in 2017, Bergen was welcoming us with overcast skies ... coolish temps. At least it wasn’t raining. But the conditions were not optimum to take the funicular to the top of Mt Fløyen to enjoy the views before hiking back down. It just wasn’t that kind of a day.

    Walking through Bryggen, the area of the city designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site — dating back to the 11th century — we headed to the head of Bergen Haven [Bergen Harbor], strolled through the fisketorget [fish market], and joined the short queue at the tourist information office.

    A few short minutes later, we had achieved our goal ... with a bonus. Not only did we now have a tourist map in hand, we also had bus tickets to put into play our alternate sightseeing plans.    Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    A "we are at Gamle Bergen" selfie — Bergen, Norway.
    The Merchant's House was the only place where there were docents — Gamle Bergen ... Bergen, Norway.1Love the mossy cobblestone paths around the museum — Gamle Bergen ... Bergen, Norway.Official's House (L) and Dentist's House ... from the mid-to-late 18th century — Gamle Bergen.Painting depicting a street scene in Old Bergen — Gamle Bergen ... Bergen, Norway.Mui finds a bike to take for a spin, but it is chained up — Gamle Bergen ... Bergen, Norway.Twin outhouses — Gamle Bergen ... Bergen, Norway.Stained glass panel @ the Glazier's House — Gamle Bergen ... Bergen, Norway.Colorful flowers add cheer to the overcast day — Gamle Bergen ... Bergen, Norway.View of the ships in port (Nautica is the smaller one) — Gamle Bergen ... Bergen, Norway.

    Gamle Bergen (Old Bergen Museum)

    8. juli 2019, Norge ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Any other time we would have walked the 1 mile between the port and Gamle Bergen [Old Bergen] Museum. Since Mui was feeling poorly, however, we hopped on a public bus instead. The museum was just a short walk from where we got off the bus.

    The outdoor museum, which opened in 1946, is set up like a small town with 50+ houses dating from the period between the 18th through the 20th centuries. Many of the houses were moved here from the Bergen city center.

    Norway is an expensive country. The museum admission was no exception — Nkr 120 pp ($13 each). I’m not sure the admission was worth it. What was most disappointing was the interior of the buildings, which were clearly lacking TLC [tender loving care] ... a lot of dust; furnishings showing a lot of wear and tear. It didn’t help that docents were available only in one of the houses.

    Nonetheless, we enjoyed our experience ... especially wandering the grounds and finding nooks and crannies where we could soak in the atmosphere of “Old Bergen.”    Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    The weather begins improving late in the afternoon in Bergen, Norway. Fingers crossed for tomorrow!

    Sailaway from Bergen

    8. juli 2019, Norge ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Following our outing to Gamle Bergen, we opted to take it easy to give Mui some rest time. The decision to do so was made easier because we’d explored Bryggen — the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Bergen — and the neighboring areas on a previous visit to the city. So, we returned to the ship.

    Lunch ... a load of laundry ... a nap (for Mui) ... reading and writing (for me). At 4:00p, we went up to the Horizons Lounge for afternoon tea. This was followed by a couple of laps around the deck 5 promenade. Wouldn’t you know it? The sun was breaking through the clouds and patches of blue were appearing in the sky. C’est la vie!

    Dinner was with the Sweets. This time in Toscana ... one of the specialty venues on the ship ... excellent Italian menu. We were seated at one of the tables overlooking the aft wall of glass, which gave us excellent views as Nautica set sail from Bergen at 7:00p.

    Next port: Ålesund, Norway ... 139 NM away.    Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    A "we are here" selfie ... the red buildings house the boat collection — Sunnmøre Museum.
    2Reflections on a calm morning — Sunnmøre Museum ... Ålesund, Norway.Restored Viking era boats — Sunnmøre Museum ... Ålesund, Norway.Meandering amongst the buildings — Sunnmøre Museum ... Ålesund, Norway.Someone has to provide perspective for the size of the door — Sunnmøre Museum ... Ålesund, Norway.The red building was considered the grandest barn in Storfjord — Sunnmøre Museum ... Ålesund.Hooded Crow — Sunnmøre Museum ... Ålesund, Norway.1View towards downtown Ålesund, the largest city in the district — Sunnmøre Museum ... Ålesund.Pieces of furniture in Lars Kinsavik's distinctive national style — Sunnmøre Museum ... Ålesund.Collection of woollen embroideries on costumes from the 1800s to 1927 — Sunnmøre Museum ... Ålesund

    Ålesund: Stiftinga Sunnmøre Museum

    9. juli 2019, Norge ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    On our first visit to Ålesund — in 2017 — we climbed the 418 steps to the top of Mt Aksla and then explored the Art Deco architecture that sprung up after much of the town was devastated by a fire in 1904. This time, we decided to head out of town.

    A short bus ride took us to the Stiftinga Sunnmøre Museum. Sunnmøre refers to the southernmost traditional district of which Ålesund is the main city. The open air museum pays tribute to the coastal folk culture.

    There are some 50+ buildings situated in a delightful setting with a path meandering around a lake and through heavily wooded areas. Unlike the Old Bergen Museum, the buildings here were moved from all around the Sunnmøre region. In addition to the structures, there is a boat collection in the båthallen [boat hall]; a Medieval Museum, which was closed today; and a collection of interesting exhibits in the reception hall. In other words, plenty to keep us occupied for about four hours.

    One of the highlights of our visit was a hidden trail that the woman at the ticket counter encouraged us to check out. The trail led to a viewpoint from which we enjoyed spectacular views as we ate a light snack to tide us over until lunch time.

    That we arrived before any tour busses did gave us a head start and allowed us to explore the museum without encountering anyone else. Perfect.    Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    A "we are at Ålesundet" selfie before lunch — Ålesund, Norway.
    Panorama of Ålesundet ... Anno is on the ground floor of the building on the left — Ålesund, Norway."Sildekona" (Herring Woman/Fish Lady) ... near Anno — Ålesund, Norway1A yummy meal @ Anno — Ålesund, Norway

    Ålesund: Lunch Time!

    9. juli 2019, Norge ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Last time we were in Ålesund (in 2017) we discovered a restaurant called Anno ... overlooking a small square along Ålesundet ... the inner harbor, if you will. We so enjoyed our meal then that there was no question where we would be having lunch this time.

    We lucked out with a table on the patio ... sunshine, blue skies, comfy temperatures, excellent food. Sounds like an ideal al fresco lunch to me.

    The tagliatelle in a creamy mushroom sauce was still on the menu ... no brainer for me ... with Geiranger Beer to wash it all down. The chorizo salad Mui ordered last time was not on the menu, so he ordered the beef and lamb burger, which he said was excellent.    Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Ålesund Kyrkje ... replaced the 1854 church that was destroyed in the 1904 fire — Ålesund, Norway.
    Ålesund Church ... consecrated in 1909 — Ålesund, Norway.Beautiful frescoes decorate the chancel and altar of the Ålesund Kyrkje — Ålesund, Norway.A closer look at the fresco on the arch of the chancel of the Ålesund Kyrkje — Ålesund, Norway.Beautiful stained glass window at Ålesund Kyrkje — Ålesund, Norway.Beautiful stained glass window at the Ålesund Kyrkje — Ålesund, Norway.Beautiful stained glass window at the Ålesund Kyrkje — Ålesund, Norway.

    Ålesund Kyrkje

    9. juli 2019, Norge ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    After lunch, we took a meandering walk back to the pier where Nautica was docked.

    Having wandered these streets in 2017, I was happy enough to keep the camera in my bag. Until, that is, we walked up to the Ålesund Church. Never one to miss an opportunity to photograph stained glass windows, murals, and frescoes, I suggested a quick stop.

    The beautiful frescoes in the chancel looked vaguely familiar, but I did not recollect previously checking out the stone church, which was built after the 1904 fire. Turns out that we had ... and I later found proof in the form of the photos I took in 2017.

    No matter, the beautiful stained glass windows and murals were worth photographing a second time. Especially since the attendant did not charge us admission ... perhaps because he was getting ready to lock up when we popped in for a quick look-see.    Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    A scenic sailaway from Ålesund, Norway.
    Fresh Norwegian delicacies for the Chef's Market Dinner as we sail away from Ålesund, Norway.

    Sailaway Dinner from Ålesund

    9. juli 2019, Norge ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Tonight was a special “Chef’s Market Dinner.” The menu at the Terrace Café featured Norwegian salmon, shrimp, reindeer, whale, and other delicacies that the Executive Chef had picked up from a local market.

    That this special dinner was on a warm-enough-to-sit-outdoors evening made for an excellent al fresco dinner opportunity. That the timing coincided with Nautica’s 7:00p sailaway from Ålesund made for a dinner-with-views. That no one in our group had alternate dining plans was a bonus, giving us a chance to regale each other with how we all took advantage of a great day in port.

    Next port: Trondheim, Norway ... 86 NM away.    Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations

    Welcome to Trondheim (Norway)

    10. juli 2019, Norge ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Our fourth port of call ... Trondheim ... new-to-us port in Norway.

    When we disembark in a new port, seldom do I look down in search of a manhole cover. After all, there’s usually nothing very interesting about these covers. Well, that’s not the case in Trondheim.

    I’ll explain the symbolism inherent in the design on the covers here since I won’t be able to do so in the caption.

    Trondheim is where the Kings of Norway have been crowned through the ages. This connection between church and state is thus depicted by the figure of a bishop blessing a king, the latter represented with a crown and the scales of justice. The three heads below the bishop and king represent the previous kings of Norway and their blessing of the new monarch.    Les mer

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    There are 57 statues on the west facade of Nidarosdomen — Trondheim, Norway.
    The "Doomsday" relief sits above the great rose window of Nidarosdomen — Trondheim, Norway.1L to R: Olaf of Norway, Bishop Sigurd, Saint Clement ... west facade of Nidarosdomen — Trondheim.2Looking towards the sanctuary and altar of Nidarosdomen — Trondheim, Norway.Altar honoring Norway's Sami culture ... Nidarosdomen — Trondheim, Norway.1The Great Rose Window of Nidarosdomen — Trondheim, Norway.1It took a 172-step climb to see this view ... Nidarosdomen — Trondheim, Norway.Gargoyles ... Nidarosdomen — Trondheim, Norway.Spectacular view from the spire of Nidarosdomen — Trondheim, Norway.Archbishop's Palace below us ... our next stop from Nidarosdomen — Trondheim, Norway.

    Trondheim: Nidarosdomen

    10. juli 2019, Norge ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    We got off the ship’s courtesy shuttle at the second stop ... near Nidarosdomen, billed as the northernmost Medieval Cathedral in the world ... named after the former name of Trondheim ... Nidaros. Construction of the cathedral began in 1070 to provide a final resting place for King Olaf, a Viking King who was canonized and later became the national saint of Norway.

    The moniker “dark cathedral” was especially appropriate today as the interior was only dimly lit. I later learned that will change once the lighting upgrade is completed. Restoration work, which began in 1869, continues to this day.

    As well as wandering around the interior of the church, we did the Nidarosdomen Spire Climb ... 172 steps up a narrow, curving staircase. Not that difficult, except for the pace which felt like a forced march because there was nowhere to step aside to let those in a hurry go ahead of us. In the end, it was worth it for the aerial views we enjoyed from the viewing terrace.    Les mer

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