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2019 Nautical Explorations
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun

2019 Nautical Explorations

After our self-drive trip around Ireland, we embarked Oceania's Nautica for 50 days. Our extended voyage consisted of multiple segments that took us to places around Europe ... both new- and old-to-us. Okumaya devam et
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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations

    Solovetsky Patriarchal Monastery

    15 Temmuz 2019, Rusya ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    The name of the monastery is much longer than what I was able to fit into the title of the footprint — Spaso-Preobrazhenskiy Solovetsky Patriarchal Monastery.

    Back in the main settlement after our tour around the northern portion of the island, members of our group all went their separate ways, exploring the monastery at our own pace. We could have easily spent all day here!

    Inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, the monastery was founded in 1429. The churches, such as the Transfiguration Cathedral, as well as the cell buildings, refectories, and more, are encircled by a stone wall, giving the monastery the look of a fortress ... except for the onion-domes that peek out above the fortifications.

    The monastery served many functions throughout its history, including a period of time between 1923-1939 when it was used as a prison camp operated by the Russian GULAG. Today, it is once again a place of religion, and the most popular site to visit on Bolshoy Solovetsky Island.

    After exploring the monastery, Mui and I took a roundabout way to walk back to the tender pier. Our reward? Reflection photos!

    Next up: Arkhangelsk, Russia ... 133 NM away.    Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations

    Solovetsky Island Photo Gallery

    15 Temmuz 2019, White Sea ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Images from today’s visit to Murmansk, Russia are at this link:
    https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Cruises/NoGlow/Slvts…

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Traditional welcome with bread and salt — Arkhangelsk, Russia.

    Welcome to Arkhangelsk (Russia)

    16 Temmuz 2019, Rusya ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Our eighth port of call ... new-to-us Arkhangelsk, Russia ... Archangel, in English. A short overnight cruise from Solovetsky Island and up the Northern Dvina River brought us to our destination.

    A snafu with the paperwork submitted by the operator of our private tour delayed our disembarkation from Nautica briefly. Apparently, the officials were expecting us to fly into the city, not cruise in! Turns out the travel agency had, in fact, submitted updated paperwork, but the correction had not filtered down to the port authorities.

    Once the bureaucratic red tape was resolved, we got off the ship and got in a van to explore the area. The rest of the day went smoothly!

    [The “welcome” image I am including with this post was taken later in the day, but I thought it was appropriate here despite the issues with the paperwork. Welcoming visitors with bread and salt is an ancient Russian tradition ... bread for good health ... salt for prosperity.]    Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Monument to the Participants of the Arctic Convoys — Arkhangelsk, Russia.
    Monument to the Seal — Arkhangelsk, Russia.Victory War Monument and the Eternal Flame — Arkhangelsk, Russia.Monument to Peter the Great — Arkhangelsk, Russia.

    Arkhangelsk: Monuments & Memorials

    16 Temmuz 2019, Rusya ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    On our way to the open-air museum we planned to visit, our guide stopped at a beach overlooking the Northern Dvina River. Huh! Sure, it was a warm, sunny day ... but not nearly warm enough for us to consider a swim.

    Turns out that this spot is rich in monuments and memorials ... all dedicated to the WWII era.

    Since photo-captions are character-limited, I’ll explain each monument here ...

    Monument to the Participants of the Arctic Convoys ... memorializes the American, British and Icelandic navies that protected the merchant convoys that brought aid to the Soviet Union under the lend-lease program of WWII.

    Monument to the Seal ... the hunting of which sustained the local people and helped them to survive through the war years.

    Victory War Monument ... dedicated to the lives lost in defense of the USSR during WWII.

    Monument to Peter the Great (a little further down the road from the beach) ... erected in 1914, it consists of a statue of the Czar on a pedestal. Ironic, as Mui later noted, since Peter the Great pretty much signed the economic death warrant for the city when he established Petrograd (now St Petersburg).    Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Traditional welcome with bread & salt — Malye Korely ... Arkhangelsk, Russia.
    Traditional fencing built without nails or iron — Malye Korely ... Arkhangelsk, Russia.16th century bell tower ... oldest structure at the museum — Malye Korely ... Arkhangelsk, Russia.Chapel of St Macarius — Malye Korely ... Arkhangelsk, Russia.Farmhouse with a ramp to drive the cart up to the hayloft — Malye Korely ... Arkhangelsk, Russia.Decorative trim on the eaves of the farm house — Malye Korely ... Arkhangelsk, Russia.Traditional red corner (red meaning beautiful) where icons were kept — Malye Korely ... Arkhangelsk.Church of the Ascension (1669) — Malye Korely ... Arkhangelsk, Russia.One of the young girls working on a painting of the church — Malye Korely ... Arkhangelsk, Russia.Iconostasis of the Church of the Ascension — Malye Korely ... Arkhangelsk, Russia.

    Arkhangelsk: Malye Korely

    16 Temmuz 2019, Rusya ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Malye Korely, the state museum of wooden architecture and folk art of the northern regions of Russia, is said to be country’s largest museum of its kind. It consists of four sectors, with two more in the planning stages. Each sector is associated with one of the main rivers of the north.

    We had barely enough time to visit one sector. It was a shame really as I could have easily spent the entire day at this fascinating place.

    We were greeted at the museum entrance with the traditional welcome of bread and salt ... the former for health; the latter for prosperity. Olga, our guide, then took us around the Kargopol-Onega sector, which consists of a collection of structures from the southwestern part of Arkhangelsk Oblast [administrative region].    Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Lunch @ Paratov ... shared a table with the Sweets (Star doing the photography honors — Arkhangelsk.

    Arkhangelsk: Lunch Time

    16 Temmuz 2019, Rusya ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    I very much would have preferred to spend a little extra time at Malye Korely in lieu of the late lunch we had at Paratov, a floating restaurant back in the city. The food was uninspired IMHO.

    The three-course meal consisted of a green salad; a fish soup — broth, really; and a main course that we had pre-ordered ... either beef stroganoff or fish.

    It was a short drive from the restaurant back to Nautica where we had time for tea and relaxation before Nautica left its berth around 7:00p.

    Next Port: Honningsvåg, Norway ... 595 NM away. But first a day at sea tomorrow.    Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Viennese Treats for afternoon tea on Nautica — Barents Sea.

    At Sea

    17 Temmuz 2019, Barentsz Sea ⋅ 🌧 43 °F

    Having made the turn out of the White Sea and around the Kola Peninsula early this morning, this was a day of sailing the Barents Sea back towards Norway. We are once again above the Arctic Circle.

    A quiet 25-hour day at sea ... we’ve gained an hour as we make our way west. We didn’t do anything too exciting ... massages; a movie on the TV for me while Mui went to the Chef’s Challenge featuring some of the officers of Nautica; a presentation on the Northeast Passage; afternoon tea at Horizons ... the theme was Viennese this time; the Oceania Club Party and dinner in the Grand Dining Room with the Gelmans and the Sweets.

    And now it’s time to get a goodnight’s rest before tomorrow’s port of call.    Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    A "thank you" kiss for welcoming us to Honningsvåg, Norway.
    Mui hangs out with the "old guy" at the pier — Honningsvåg, Norway.A "we are in Honningsvåg reflection-selfie" with a troll and Nautica — Honningsvåg, Norway.Bamse, the "WWII Hero Dog" of the Norwegian Navy greets us @ the pier — Honningsvåg, Norway.

    Welcome to Honningsvåg (Norway)

    18 Temmuz 2019, Norveç ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Our ninth port of call ... new-to-us Honningsvåg, Norway ... where we were greeted not just by trolls, but also by Bamse, the Sailor Dog.

    [The story of Bamse is at this link:https://dogs-in-history.blogspot.com/2017/02/ba….]

    Like Hammerfest, which we visited on the northbound leg of our cruise, Honningsvåg claims to be the northernmost city in Europe. I looked up the latitudes and indeed Honningsvåg might have a slight edge ... thanks to a loophole that allows any place that has a population of at least 5,000 to consider itself to be a city.    Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    A "we are in Kamoyvær selfie" — Kamoyvær, Norway.
    1A quiet morning with reflections — Kamoyvær, Norway.Gardenscape — Kamoyvær, Norway.Monica explaining how cod is dried naturally in the dry, cold Arctic air — Kamoyvær, Norway.Dried cod ... bread and butter of the fishing industry — Kamoyvær, Norway.1Meet Monica's son ... Tony — Kamoyvær, Norway.Fishermen waiting for the tide to come in — Kamoyvær, Norway.Store Kamøya is one of the islands that shelter the village — Kamoyvær, Norway.A stroll on the outskirts of the village — Kamoyvær, Norway.Gardenscape — Kamoyvær, Norway.

    Honningsvåg: Nordkapp Tour ... Kamøyvær

    18 Temmuz 2019, Norveç ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    While Honningsvåg’s status as Europe’s northernmost city might be questioned, what can’t be disputed (sort of) is Europe’s northernmost point ... Nordkapp (North Cape in English).

    On our way to Nordkapp, our private tour with Blue Puffin first stopped at the tiny fishing village of Kamøyvær ... also the hometown of our guide, Monica.

    Despite the dreary overcast, we enjoyed a stroll around the picturesque village along Kamøyfjorden on the island of Magerøya. We also learned a bit about the fishing industry that is the bread and butter of the region and met Monica’s cute ‘lil son, Tony.    Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Close up of a male king crab — Skarsvåg, Norway.
    1Triangular belly indicates the gender ... male — Skarsvåg, Norway.Monika showing us a female king crab — Skarsvåg, Norway.1Female king crabs have a rounded belly — Skarsvåg, Norway.1If hungry, female king crabs will eat their own roe (right) — Skarsvåg, Norway.Skarsvåg, Norway.View of the village across the tundra — Skarsvåg, Norway.

    Honningsvåg: Nordkapp Tour ... Skarsvåg

    18 Temmuz 2019, Norveç ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Our second stop en route to Nordkapp was Skarsvåg ... which claims to be the northernmost fishing village in the world!

    Monika took us to the king crab tanks here. Apparently, king crabs are not native to Norwegian waters. They were brought here from Murmansk initially ... and from Alaska later.

    They have flourished to the point of being pests. In fact, in some areas, there are no crab fishing quotas. Regardless of the abundance of king crabs in these waters, however, they continue to fetch high prices due to their popularity around the world!    Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    A "we are at the North Cape selfie" — Nordkapp, Norway.
    The globe that symbolizes Nordkapp is some 1,000 feet above the sea — Nordkapp, Norway.Knivskjellodden reaches further north by some 4,500 feet ... have to hike out there — from Nordkapp.This globe, erected in 1977, has come to symbolize the North Cape — Nordkapp, Norway.Despite the crowd, we take a "we are at Nordkapp selfie" — Nordkapp, Norway.Children of the Earth ... features artwork from 7 kids from around the globe — Nordkapp, Norway.You know you're in Norway when you see trolls ... Visitor Hall — Nordkapp, Norway.Famous tourists: King Chulalongkorn (L) & Prince of Orleans from France (R) — Visitor Hall.Before the road was built, visitors had to climb up the cliff to get to Nordkapp ... the King, too.St Johannes Kapell ... in the Visitor Hall Tunnel — Nordkapp, Norway.

    Honningsvåg: Nordkapp ... Northernmost?

    18 Temmuz 2019, Norveç ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Even the postcards I picked up at Nordkapp — North Cape in English — describe the massive rocky plateau that rises some 1,000 feet above the surface of the sea as the northernmost point of Europe.

    And yet, the Knivskjellodden Peninsula, which is visible from the overlook at Nordkapp clearly reaches further north ... even to the naked eye.

    Turns out there is a caveat to Nordkapp’s claim. Located at 71°10’21” North, it is the northernmost point in Europe reachable by car!    Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Group photo at the Storvatnet Lake Overlook on Magerøya Island, Norway.
    1Reindeer in its summer coat ... Magerøya Island, Norway."Pregnant Woman Island" in the distance — Magerøya Island, Norway.1Panoramic view of the harbor — Honningsvåg, Norway.View of the "city" from the end of the pier — Honningsvåg, Norway.

    Honningsvåg: Here & There on Magerøya

    18 Temmuz 2019, Norveç ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Our Nordkapp tour with Blue Puffin took us to places around Magerøya Island. In some places we spent quite a bit of time. Other stops were photo-ops that caught our eye.

    We wrapped up our tour with a stroll in Honningsvåg, which translates as “Honey Bay.”Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations

    Day @ Sea

    19 Temmuz 2019, Norwegian Sea ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    We’ve left the Barents Sea behind and are now sailing the Norwegian Sea. We have received the “Currents” — the daily program — for tomorrow and once again sunrise and sunset times are being provided. That means that we are again below the Arctic Circle ... where we shall remain.

    It was a quiet day of rest and relaxation. Breakfast at the Terrace Café; brunch service in the Main Dining Room in lieu of lunch; sunny and warm enough to sit outside on the pool deck for much of the day ... with a fleece blanket for a little extra coziness; a lecture or two ... one of which was on the “Golden Years of Apollo 11;” afternoon massages ... used up the “free” perk included with our O Club loyalty level ... which is “gold” until we reach “platinum” after the next leg of our cruise.    Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    1Looking back @ Piren, the dock from which the Grip Ruta boat departs — Kristiansund, Norway.
    We share the aft deck with the Gelmans and a French couple — Kristiansund, Norway.Bye bye Nautica ... we'll see you in a couple of hours — Kristiansund, Norway.1Summer bath houses and residences ... on our way to Grip — Kristiansund, Norway.Colorful houses perched high on the cliffs ... en route to Grip — Kristiansund, Norway.The Stavnes Lighthouse ... on our way to Grip — Kristiansund, Norway.Gripholmen Ahoy! This is the largest of the 82 islets and skerries of the Grip Archipelago, Norway.

    Kristiansund: Grip Ruta

    20 Temmuz 2019, Norveç ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Yes, we were lucky and managed to snag seats on the Hagbart Waage, the boat that takes visitors out to an archipelago of islands about 9 miles from Kristiansund.

    A glorious day of blue skies and sunshine, comfy temps, calm sea conditions, and seats on the lower aft deck. It all made for a very pleasing ride out to the largest island in the archipelago ... home to the deserted fishing village of Grip.Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    A beautiful day ... a beautiful place to visit — Gripholmen, Norway.
    Distracted by the colorful scenery, we almost miss the kittiwakes nesting in the bumper tires — Grip2Black-legged kittiwakes — Gripholmen, Norway.2Kittiwakes checking us out — Gripholmen, Norway.1Black-legged kittiwakes — Gripholmen, Norway.2Black-legged kittiwakes — Gripholmen, Norway.Black-legged kittiwakes — Gripholmen, Norway.1This is the youngest kittwake chick we see in the nests — Gripholmen, Norway.

    Kristiansund: Grip Welcome Committee

    20 Temmuz 2019, Norveç ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Our delightful day on Gripholmen began with an unexpected welcome committee.

    As the Grip Ruta boat approached the pier we were so entranced by the colorful buildings lining the shore that we almost didn’t see the kittiwakes nesting in the bumper tires. Had we been on the upper deck, we definitely would have missed them.

    In North America, these birds, which belong to the gull family, are known as black-legged kittiwakes to distinguish them from the red-legged species. In Europe, there is only the one species so no “color coding” is required.

    The best part of our kittiwake encounter? The birds — be they adults, fledglings, or chicks — were so used to the twice-daily arrival of the boat that they showed no fear of humans. Thus, they were excellent photography subjects as we slowly made our way from the lower deck to the upper deck to disembark the boat.    Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    A "we are in Grip" selfie — Gripholmen Island, Norway.
    Kristina shows us the family boathouse where, as a kid, she operated a gift shop — Gripholmen IslandThe stave church dates back to between 1470-1500 — Gripholmen Island, Norway.Murals (partially restored) adorn the walls of the stave church — Gripholmen Island, Norway.Original inhabitants of Grip and their descendents now use the houses as summer vacation homes.1The fishermen used these rocks to air-dry their catch — Gripholmen Island, Norway.I love the contrast between the rocks and the colorful houses — Gripholmen Island, Norway.Would anyone care for a dried cod head? — Gripholmen Island, Norway.A delightful weather day for a delightful visit to Grip — Gripholmen Island, Norway.Kittiwake chicks see us off as we depart Grip — Gripholmen Island, Norway.

    Kristiansund: A-Wander in Grip

    20 Temmuz 2019, Norveç ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Grip, which is located on Gripholmen, the largest of the 80+ islands and skerries, was first settled in the 9th century so that fishermen could be close to the best cod fishing grounds. For centuries, it was considered the smallest municipality in Norway. That changed in 1964 when the residents of the island were forced to relocate to the mainland because providing services to the small fishing community became prohibitively expensive.

    The idyllic island, with its colorful buildings, has a stark landscape, with little vegetation except for private gardens. Apparently, the fishermen stripped what vegetation there used to be so as to have plenty of rocks on which to air-dry their catch.

    We had about 1½ hours to wander around delightful Grip. The boat fare included a guided tour, which we took advantage of first, leaving us with about an hour to explore on our own before the boat’s whistle called us back for the return trip to Kristiansund.    Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Clipfish Woman Statue on the waterfront — Kristiansund, Norway.
    Manhole cover reflecting some of the symbols of the city — Kristiansund, Norway.Kirkelandet Kirke ... a church with modern architecture — Kristiansund, Norway.Dolphin Fountain in Nerparken — Kristiansund, Norway.Girl with Bird Statue in Nerparken — Kristiansund, Norway.Colorful flowers in Nerparken — Kristiansund, Norway.

    Kristiansund: A Stroll in the City

    20 Temmuz 2019, Norveç ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Returning from Grip, we still had time to stroll around Kristiansund. Since our time in Kristiansund was growing short, however, we limited our explorations to Kirkelandet, the island where Nautica was berthed.

    Together with Sonia & Boris, we wandered around with no set plan, finding ourselves climbing uphill to Kirkelandet Church and the nearby parks.

    —————————————————

    Since photo captions are character-limited, a brief explanation of two of the attached photos:

    “Clipfish Woman” Statue at the Piren Dock: Clipfish is typically salted cod. The statue honors the local women who at one time dried the fish on the rocks around the harbor.

    The manhole covers around Kristiansund reflect some of the symbols of the city ... Clipfish Woman; Sundbåten, the ferry connecting the four islands on which the city is situated; Kirkelandet Church; and the date of 1742, which refers to when King Christian VI allowed the place to become a town with the name Christiansund, later changed to the Norwegian spelling Kristiansund.    Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Aurlandsfjorden ... tributary of Sognefjorden — Norway.
    1One of the many colorful hamlets in Aurlandsfjorden — Norway.Reflections — Aurlandsfjorden, Norway.The village of Aurlandsvangen ... the administrative center of the municipality — Aurlandsfjorden.The villages and hamlets are linked by ferry service — Aurlandsfjorden, Norway.Looking aft from deck 10 on Nautica — Aurlandsfjorden, Norway.One of the many waterfalls streaming down the walls of Aurlandsfjorden — Norway.We visited the Otternes Farm Museum on the hilltop in 2017 — Aurlandsfjorden, Norway.

    Sailing up Aurlandsfjorden to Flåm

    21 Temmuz 2019, Norveç ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    Nautica was already sailing up the 127-mile long, UNESCO-listed Sognefjorden when we rolled out of bed to overcast skies and light rain. We bundled up and went for a wander around the outside decks to enjoy the scenery that makes the Norwegian fjords so amazing.

    Before long, we had turned into one of the tributaries of this fjord system — Aurlandsfjorden ... at the head of which the last port of call of this segment of our cruise was awaiting us.

    The “color of the day” was green ... in every possible shade one might imagine ... with pops of color from the buildings dotting the landscape. Low-lying clouds wreathing around the mountains and filling the valleys added a mystical ambiance.    Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Flåm sits at the head of Aurlandsfjorden in Norway.
    As our tender pulls away, the next one arrives to take passengers ashore — Flåm, Norway.I love these holiday houses that sit on the shoreline — Flåm, Norway.

    Welcome to Flåm (Norway)

    21 Temmuz 2019, Norveç ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    Our 11th — and final — port-of-call ... Flåm, Norway ... which we first visited in 2017.

    Since we were sharing this port with the much larger MSC Preziosa, that ship was given the privilege of docking and Nautica got to tender her passengers ashore.

    By 10:30a, we were on land and ready to put our plans for the day into play.    Okumaya devam et

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Brekkefossen ... our destination is up there near the cloudline — Flåm, Norway.
    Pigs on the way to the Brekkefossen Trailhead — Flåm, Norway.Highland Cattle on the way to the Brekkefossen Trailhead — Flåm, Norway.Sheep on the way to the Brekkefossen Trailhead — Flåm, Norway.Flowers add color as we make our way to the Brekkefossen Trailhead — Flåm, Norway.Rural landscape on the way to the Brekkefossen Trailhead — Flåm, Norway.Rural landscape on the way to the Brekkefossen Trailhead — Flåm, Norway.Colorful flowers add cheer to this backyard en route to the Brekkefossen Trailhead — Flåm, Norway.

    Flåm: On the Way to Brekkefossen

    21 Temmuz 2019, Norveç ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    The most popular activity for people visiting Flåm is riding the Flåmsbana (Flåm Railway). We have yet to do that.

    When we called on Flåm in 2017, we hiked over to the Otternes Farm Open Air Museum. Our plan today was to do a bit of hiking again .... but this time to Brekkefossen (Break Waterfall). To get to the trailhead we had to walk a mile or so through rural areas, passing farms along the way.Okumaya devam et

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