• Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
Dec 2023 – May 2024

Adventuring Down Under

Circumnavigation of Australia aboard Oceania Regatta ... with pre-cruise in Sydney … and a couple of months overland. Read more
  • Winter wonderland scenery thanks to a recent snow event — Colorado Springs, CO.
    Forecast is looking good for our departure plans — Colorado Springs, CO.

    Weather Forecast Looking Good

    December 9, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 32 °F

    Our last couple of winter trip departures fell victim to the vagaries of Mother Nature ... to the extent that we had to make last-minute changes to our departure plans. Thus, we've been keeping a close eye on the forecast.

    Since returning home from Europe on 15 November, we've had several snow events. The most recent of which was a storm that came through last night. No worries. The sun is already out and the white stuff is starting to disappear. With temperatures expected to be above freezing the next few days, the snow will be gone in no time.

    The 7-day forecast is looking good. The earliest precip is forecasted for the day after we leave … the 13th ... a non-day for us since we will be losing it to the IDL on our way to Sydney.

    We'll keep monitoring the weather, but it looks like Mother Nature is going to cooperate with our plans this time.
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  • The neon green color of our rental is fun — Colorado Springs, Colorado.

    Working the Departure Checklist

    December 11, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    Bags packed … ✔️

    Rental car to get from to COS … ✔️… No big truck this time … just a colorful Hyundai Kona.

    Last minute to-do items … in progress.

  • Overview of our Australia adventure as we start out.

    And We Are Off to Australia

    December 11, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 45 °F

    Or we will be soon enough.

    Tomorrow morning, with a flight from COS to IAH, we will begin our long travel day — or should that be days? We depart on 12 December … lose 13 December to the IDL … and arrive in Australia on 14 December.

    The map I’ve appended to this footprint shows a “very” general overview of our Australia adventure. It’s a bit more convoluted than we’d hope it would be … mainly because we had to work around availability for some of the things we really wanted to do … such as the rail journeys.

    No worries, though. We’ve got the basic logistics in place … the rest we will wing.

    (If you want a sneak peek at some of what we have planned for our “by ship … car … plane … RV … train … ferry” adventure, you can go back and read through the snippets I’ve already uploaded. Oh, and there will be plenty of “on foot” doings as well.)
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  • We beginnleg one of our trip to Australia at COS — Colorado Springs, CO.

    We Start at COS

    December 12, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 27 °F

    An early flight — 7:40a departure — means an early wake up alarm. Luckily, we are early birds anyway.

    The 30-minute drive to COS was a cinch. The Avis rep met us as we were parking the rental, collected the key, and sent us on our way to the terminal.

    I had already completed the “travel ready” requirements in the UA app and checked us in for both flights, so we quickly dropped off our bags and went thru the TSA Pre✔️ line in a jiffy.

    The bonus for today … learning that the domestic first boarding passes for our UA flight give us access to the Priority Lounge.

    Sipping tea and relaxing in a comfy chair as I write this footprint.

    Twenty five minutes to boarding the flight to IAH.
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  • Overcast morning ... but clear view of Pikes Peak — COS ... Colorado Springs, CO.
    Pikes Peak wit Peterson Space Force Base laid out below us — COS ... Colorado Springs, CO.Pikes Peak wit Peterson Space Force Base laid out below us — COS ... Colorado Springs, CO.Bye bye Colorado Springs ... see you in May!

    Aboard UA 5325 to IAH

    December 12, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 32 °F

    I don’t remember the taxi to the runway being so long at COS. It is a small airport after all. On the other hand, COS shares the runway with Peterson Space Force Base, so perhaps it makes sense.

    In any event, we were in the air by 8:00a … soaring smoothly above Peterson and the surrounding neighborhoods … with clear views of Pikes Peak — our local 14er — before turning south for the flight to Houston, Texas.

    We are 30 minutes into the flight. The UA app tells me that we will be arriving in 1 hour and 27 minutes. That would put us at IAH 20 minutes ahead of schedule … despite our delay departing COS by the same number of minutes.

    UA5325 is aboard a Canadair Regional Jet (CRJ700) operated by SkyWest Airlines. Our seats in the domestic first cabin are comfy enough … we opted for the single seats on the port side, so Mui’s sitting behind me. There’s only a snack and beverage service since the flight is so short . Typical.

    See you on the ground at IAH.
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  • On approach to IAH — Houston, TX.
    On approach to IAH — Houston, TX.Our air chariot where we deplaned from it at Terminal B — IAH ... Houston, TX.

    Arrived @ IAH

    December 12, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    An uneventful flight brought us to IAH. Bonus … we were 10 minutes ahead of schedule.

    Our aircraft pulled up to Terminal B and we deplaned via a ramp that was brought to the plane for our convenience.

    The beauty of being familiar with an airport is that you know how to get from one point to another. In our case, a short stroll and a short ride on the skyway was all that we needed to get where we needed to go in Terminal E.

    Now to while away the time until our 8:25p departure to SYD.
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  • Welcome to the Polaris Lounge @ IAH — Houston, TX.
    Christmas at the Polaris Lounge — IAH ... Houston, TX.Lunch at the Polaris Lounge dining room — IAH ... Houston, TX.Lunch at the Polaris Lounge — IAH ... Houston, TX.All set to while away the hours until our flight to SYD — IAH ... Houston, TX.Mui is across the aisle from me at the Polaris Lounge — IAH ... Houston, TX.

    Whiling Away the Layover @ IAH

    December 12, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Since we are flying to Australia on an aircraft that has a Polaris business class cabin, we have access to a decent lounge to while away the hours at IAH before we embark our flight tonight.

    While it is nothing like the amazing THY Business Lounge in İstanbul, the Polaris Lounge at IAH is head and shoulders above regular UA Clubs. Thus, it is no hardship to spend our time here.

    On arrival, we first wandered around the lounge to get the lay of the land. Since the lounge was all but deserted, we felt no compunction about leaving our carry-on bags in a couple of cozy cubbies before heading to the dining room … a very nice alternative to the buffet set up near the bar.

    Must say that the food was quite good. I had read that the Polaris Signature Burger was the thing to order, so that’s what we did … with Mui supplementing it with a kale salad from the small plates section of the menu. A glass of Zin for me … a Merlot for Mui. We wrapped up with dessert … a warm chocolate chip cookie a la mode for Mui; a bananas foster mini cake for me. His was the better choice.

    Tummies sated, we settled into our cubbies to while away the rest of our time at IAH. For me, that means writing and reading … and processing photos. The armchair in the cubby is a bit big for a shortie like me, but I’ve managed to make myself comfy enough. Mui went off for a bit to make use of one of the two daybeds in the quiet area … available in 45-minute increments … just long enough to catch a few 💤.

    We’re settled in for what we expect will be a relaxing and uneventful afternoon … and evening. I’ll be back if something newsworthy pops up.

    In the meantime, I am going to go take a stroll down the concourse of Terminal E. From what I glimpsed on our way to the lounge earlier today, the renovations that were ongoing the last time we were here are completed … and it looks much nicer than it used to be.

    Ciao for now.
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  • All settled jnto my seat 1L ... very private — Aboard UA 101 @ IAH ... Houston, TX.

    Aboard UA 101 to SYD

    December 12, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Boarding began promptly at 7:35p and the crew announced “ Boarding Complete” at 8:10p.

    If the Polaris cabin is anything to go by, this is going to be a light flight.

  • This is what happens when you hit turbulence while taking a night shot.
    Nightime photography and climbing up in an airplane make for a less than crisp photo.Stats about 30 minutes into a 17 hour flight.Happy Hour!Tasty food for dinner.Time to don PJs (which we get to keep).Comfy in PJs ... watching TV just like at home.Mui comfy in his PJs ... in his seat behind mine.When we wake up ... somewhere in the Pacific near Apia.Sunrise with two hours to go to reach SYD.

    Less Than 2 Hours to Go to SYD

    December 14, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Well the flight wasn’t nearly as bad as I dreaded. No doubt due to the comfort of being in a Polaris business class cabin.

    Here’s a quick sum up.

    On time departure from Houston at 8:25a on the 12th … flight duration estimated as 17 hours by the cockpit crew.

    Drinks and warm nuts as soon as we were leveled off at altitude.

    Dinner service soon after … really quite delicious.

    A couple of movies to entertain ourselves.

    Wi-fi … pretty good speed for social media, email, and internet browsing … free thanks to UA’s partnership with T-Mobile, our carrier.

    Time to catch some zzz’s … made all the more comfortable due to the Polaris PJs we were given upon request.

    Lost 13 December somewhere over the Pacific while we were sleeping … thanks to the vagaries of the International Date Line.

    Up and at ‘em after about 5 hours of zzz’s … with about 5.5 hours to go to reach SYD.

    Another movie … some writing … some photo processing.

    Now, with less than two hours to go, getting ready for the breakfast service.

    More when we get to Australia.
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  • View from our apartment in The Rocks — Sydney, NSW.

    We Have Arrived in Sydney

    December 14, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Welcome to Sydney, Australia!

    UA 101 landed at SYD 10 minutes ahead of schedule.

    Since we qualified for using the Smart Gates to enter the country, after deplaning we quickly went through the two-step DIY process that included scanning our passports, receiving a pass, and going through a biometric-verification gate.

    The only time we saw Border Forces Agents was when they collected our entry passes and customs forms (completed on the plane) at the “nothing to declare” gate after we collected our bags.

    Then it was just a matter of ordering an Uber to take us to the AirBNB apartment in The Rocks … our home away from home for a week.

    We’ll refresh ourselves and then head out to do some grocery shopping.

    The plan is to stay active so that we can start adjusting to the 18-hour time difference. What we will actually do is still TBD.
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  • Sydney: Errands & More

    December 14, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 99 °F

    Just because the plan for today was to run a bunch of errands doesn’t mean that we didn’t stop to enjoy the sights around the city as we went from one shop to another.

    What was on our list?

    Pick-me-up beverages at the Bar Cycle in Marsh Bay … an iced Americano for Mui; tea for me … and a spinach and feta roll to share.

    Groceries, of course … we plan to self-cater at least some of our meals.

    A couple of eSIMs from Telstra so that we have Australian phone numbers and data for ease of communication … T-Mobile’s not going to cut it in a number of places we plan to visit over the next 4.5 months.

    A lightning to USB-A pigtail from Apple so Mui can download his GoPro videos to an external drive through his iPad … we both left our laptops at home in Colorado in an effort to simplify our electronics on this trip. Fingers crossed it works out!

    A couple of honest-to-goodness Australian Outback hats … specifically the Akubra brand, which Mui had his heart set on.

    Our plans to have dinner out after our errands didn’t quite work out. Timing issues. But also, it got hot very quickly … 97F by the time we wrapped up our errands around 3:30p. I was drained … stick-a-fork-in-me done. A 14,000-step day following a 17-hour flight might have had something to do with our change of plans, too.

    We’ll pick up our sightseeing tomorrow … the weather being the driver behind what we decide to do. One thing is for sure … we’re looking forward to more chats with friendly Aussies.
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  • Leaving Circular Quay on the ferry to Milsons Point — Sydney, NSW.
    On this three-ship day, Royal Princess got the prime spot at the Overseas Passenger Terminal.Another Sydney Opera photo op ... this time from the ferry — Sydney, NSW.The Coathanger ... from the ferry — Sydney, NSW.The Luna Park at Milsons Point Wharf — Sydney, NSW.The highrises of Sydney from Lavender Bay.Panorama — Lavender Bay ... Sydney, NSW.Lavender Bay — Sydney, NSW.Skyline view across Lavender Bay — Sydney, NSW.Lavender Bay — Sydney, NSW.Tiny statues like this one of "Little Obelia" peek out from the vegetation along the shoreline path.

    Sydney: Along Lavender Bay

    December 15, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    After a goodnight’s rest, we were up early. Not because of jet lag, mind you. But simply because we are early birds. In fact, considering the time change we put our bodies through to get to Sydney, we’re doing pretty darn good in the jet lag department.

    The plan was to take it easy today. To that end, we took the advice of a friend who used to live in Sydney and hopped on a ferry to cross Sydney Harbor to Milsons Point. On the agenda was a stroll along Lavender Bay and a visit to … well, that part will be in the next footprint.

    The ride across from Circular Quay was a short one … five minutes , if that. Turns out that the Milsons Point Wharf is where the Luna Park is located. There sure were some crazy rides that had riders screaming their heads off … only to turn around and go back for seconds! No thanks … not our cup of tea.

    Lavender Bay is a suburb on the lower North Shore of Sydney. Known as Gooweebahree in the Dharug language of the Aboriginal people, Lavender Bay was named after the bosun of the Phoenix, a prison hulk that was moored in these waters for many years.

    We followed the shoreline path, enjoying the lovely skyline views that included the Opera House in the distance … the Coathanger, as the Sydney Harbor Bridge is fondly called, dominating the foreground views. We stopped frequently for photo ops during our relatively solitary stroll as there weren’t many people out and about in the mid-morning hours.
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  • Wendy's Secret Garden — Lavender Bay ... Sydney, NSW.
    Wendy's Secret Garden — Lavender Bay ... Sydney, NSW."Head" (by J. Elenberg) ... Wendy's Secret Garden — Lavender Bay ... Sydney, NSW.Australian Brush Turkey @ Wendy's Secret Garden — Lavender Bay ... Sydney, NSW.Wendy's Secret Garden — Lavender Bay ... Sydney, NSW.Wendy's Secret Garden — Lavender Bay ... Sydney, NSW.Wendy's Secret Garden — Lavender Bay ... Sydney, NSW.Wendy's Secret Garden — Lavender Bay ... Sydney, NSW.Can you find the Bridge climbers? ... from Wendy's Secret Garden — Lavender Bay ... Sydney, NSW.Wendy's Secret Garden — Lavender Bay ... Sydney, NSW.Mui photo-bombing my attempt to take a picture of the view from Lavender by the Bay @ Kirribilli.Delicious lunch at Lavender by the Bay — Kirribilli Club ... Sydney, NSW.Clark Park — Lavender Bay ... Sydney, NSW.Our ferry back to Circular Quay awaits — Milsons Point Wharf.

    Sydney: A Secret Garden & Lunch

    December 15, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    At the end of our stroll along Lavender Bay, we hung a right and went under the train rails to find ourselves in what our friend had described as a “gem” … Wendy’s Secret Garden.

    This is no manicured garden. Rather, it has an almost jungle-like vibe … very rustic … with paths meandering this way and that through various levels. Garden statues and rusty artifacts tucked into nooks and crannies. Very peaceful … a perfect place to get away from the hubbub of big city living for a few hours … especially on a three-ship-day in Sydney.

    The Wendy mentioned here is Wendy Whiteley, wife of renowned painter, Brett Whitely. Following Brett’s death in 1992, grief-stricken, she threw herself into clearing piles of overgrowth on the land at the foot of their house. From this effort today’s garden was born … still maintained by gardeners whom she employs.

    Contrary to its name, the garden is not a secret. In fact, the website describes it as “ … one of the worst kept secrets in Sydney … .” That might well be the case. Today, however, we pretty much had it to ourselves, encountering only a few people … and those at a distance.

    Eventually we made our way to the top of the garden and walked across the road to the Kirribilli Club. Since we are not members, Mui had to register, but as our friend had told us, we did not have to pay for a membership.

    Our destination at the club was the restaurant … Lavender by the Bay. We arrived at 11:30a and snagged one of the few remaining tables on the terrace. The kitchen, we were told, would open at noon. No worries. With the spectacular view as eye candy, we ordered a couple glasses of Pinot Noir from the Adelaide Hills and whiled away the time easily enough.

    For lunch, we ordered a cheesy mushroom arancini starter that was perfectly fried to a golden hue … and followed that with the seafood platter … which consisted of cold and hot selections. To wrap up … a delicious carrot cake.

    After lunch, we followed a different path that took us through Clark Park and down from there to the waterfront. A delightful stroll — it wasn’t as hot today as it was yesterday — took us back to the wharf for the ferry to Circular Quay.

    We had noted that there was a concert in a park in The Rocks tonight. So, we headed home for a couple of hours to rest up. Unfortunately, the concert turned out not to cater to our taste in music, so when we did venture out again, we did not stay long. Oh well … we still had a lovely day.
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  • Taronga Zoo opened officially in 1916 — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.
    Tammar Wallaby ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Emu ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Koala ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Koalas ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Koala on the move ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Dingo ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Skyline view from Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Brown Cuckoo-Dove ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Tasmanian Devil @ Rest ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Free-ranging Australian Water Dragon ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Cassowary ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Australian Brush Turkey ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Giraffe exhibit with a view ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Giraffes ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.The views live up to the name of the zoo ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Bush Stone Curlews ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Rhino with a Babe ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Royal Spoonbill ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Australian Pelican ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Young Lowland Gorilla munching on frozen cucumbers ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.Penguin species of the world ... Taronga Zoo — Mosman ... Sydney, NSW.

    Sydney: Taronga Zoo

    December 16, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Of course we prefer to see animals in the wild. Who doesn’t?

    But that is not always possible. We believe that zoos — well run and credentialed ones — have an important role to play in the animal world … and we don’t mind supporting those that participate in worthwhile conservation programs by visiting them on occasion.

    The website indicates that Taronga “… cares for over 5,000 animals from over 350 species, many of which are threatened.” It is committed to not just the conservation of wildlife in Australia, but around the world as well. As we wandered around, I noted several references in information panels to the zoo’s active involvement in breed and release programs. So, they do good work.

    On that note, here’s the story of today’s visit to Taronga Zoo, which officially opened in 1916. Taronga is an Aboriginal word that means "beautiful view". An exceptionally appropriate moniker as we enjoyed delightful views of the city from various points around the grounds as we visited the many different animal habitats.

    Located in the suburb of Mosman, a 12-minute ferry ride took us from Circular Quay to the zoo. The ferry wharf for Taronga is near the lower entrance. It’s possible to walk up through the grounds from there. But we did something better. Bus 238 — which transfers ferry passengers from the wharf to Balmoral — makes its first stop at the upper (main) zoo entrance. The bus was waiting at the wharf stop, so, we hopped on. Well worth the AUD $1/person fare … which, in USD, comes out to about $0.67/person.

    (By the way, we are loving the tap on/tap off system in place for public transportation … ApplePay/GooglePay work beautifully, so we have not had to invest in Opal Cards.)

    Once the zoo opened at 9:30a, we followed the meandering paths back down through the grounds … seeking shade wherever we could find it. What we thought would be a 2-hour visit lasted twice as long. Fun times in the company of not-so-wildlife. Despite the brutal sun — the high today was 90F — the animals were out and active … our thanks to all the critters for cooperating with our plans today.

    Returning to Sydney on the ferry, we searched out a place for a late lunch. We ended up at the Munich Pub in The Rocks where good German food and local beer served as a wrap up for our day.
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  • Bridge Climb Sydney — Sydney, NSW.
    Bridge Climb Sydney — Sydney, NSW.Bridge Climb Sydney — Sydney, NSW.Bridge Climb Sydney — Sydney, NSW.Bridge Climb Sydney — Sydney, NSW.

    Sydney: Coathanger Summit Climb

    December 17, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Reader beware! An exceptional experience deserves an exceptionally long footprint.

    Today started as an easy day at home. Why? Because we wanted to be rested and fresh for tonight’s grand adventure.

    Not that we were idle, mind you. We worked on a loose plan for the remainder of our days in Sydney and did some chores. We also went out for a nice lunch at the neighborhood pub around the corner from us … The Hero of Waterloo! Great fish and chips … so-so burger … delicious crème brûlée.

    With a span of 1,640 feet, the Sydney Harbour Bridge — an iconic landmark, which the locals fondly call the Coathanger — is one of the world’s longest steel-arch bridges. You can drive across it. You can take a train across it. You can walk across it. And if you are adventurous enough, you can climb it … except on December 30 and December 31, when the climb takes a back seat to preparations for the world-famous New Year’s Eve fireworks display.

    When we left the USA, we were still unsure if we wanted to do the Sydney Harbour Bridge Climb. We also wanted to make sure that if we decided to go ahead, we would have a nice day for it as the experience operates rain or shine. In the rain would be no fun. So, we opted not to make any reservations. That turned out to be OK as we found plenty of availability when we checked the website a few days ago … thanks to being flexible with our dates. We even managed to book a night climb … our first choice of all the available options.

    The Bridge Climb is no Mickey Mouse operation … even if we did have Disney Wonder docked in Circular Quay while we were climbing the bridge!

    First, there are all kinds of rules about what you can take with you on the climb … which is little more than the clothes on your back. Loose items are all dis-allowed … no bracelets or dangly jewelry, no barrettes or hairpins, no bags, no open-toe or unlaced shoes, no cameras or phones, no nothing. Anything that is allowed — such as eyeglasses — must be secured to your person by lanyards with special clips. And any essential meds — such as asthma inhalers — must be carried by the climb guide.

    Next, there are a bunch of safety measures to get through … watching a safety video; doing a breathalyzer test; donning a “blend-into-the-steel-structure-of-the-bridge” climb suit; buckling into a safety harness; tethering eyeglasses to our suits with lanyards and special clips; getting issued headlights and headsets … just to name the ones I remember off hand. The whole process took about 30 minutes, with checks and double checks by staff before we were given the thumbs up.

    All prepped, it was time to set out on the climb. But first, we received instruction on how to negotiate the four ladders that would take us from below the road deck to the outer arch of the bridge. The instruction included practicing going up and down ladders similar to the ones we’d be negotiating during the climb.

    Finally, we stepped into the Climb Base below the Bradfield Highway — the road carried across Sydney Harbour by the bridge. After latching onto the safety guide wire, we set off on a walk that took us across narrow catwalks and steps and cantilevers. The walk was fairly fast-paced, but not so much so that you were left breathless. There was, however, little time to dally. Paying attention to where we were stepping so as not to run afoul of low overhead beams and other steel infrastructure, meant that there wasn’t much time to take in the views. No worries, that would come later.

    Our initial destination was the Southeast Pylon. Once we arrived there, it was time to go up the aforementioned four ladders — vehicle traffic and trains whizzing by overhead as we did so. The ladders took us up to the start of the outer arch. From there to the summit it was all steps … 1,332 in all — no, I didn’t count them for myself.

    As we made our way up to the tippy top of the bridge, we had several opportunities to stop and take in the delightful skyline … the Sydney Opera House was the main attraction … though Disney Wonder did garner quite a bit of attention, too. We even had some entertainment along the way … fireworks in the distance and music from the party boats flitting here and there in the harbor.

    Before we set out, our climb guide had instructed us to line up in a specific way … all group members together … from shortest to tallest. This was essential for the photo-ops during the climb as we could not un-tether to juggle around each other. There were three photo-ops … one with the Sydney Opera House; one at the tippy-top where the two 65-foot tall flag poles fly the Aboriginal and the Australian flags; and another one with the skyline as a background. A special contraption ensured the camera was kept steady for the shots taken with flashlight.

    Crossing the catwalk at the summit, we made our way to the southwest of the bridge. After enjoying the views from that vantage point and completing the skyline photo op, we began the descent back down to the Climb Base.

    When we arrived, we gave ourselves a round of applause before going into the ready room to divest ourselves of all the accoutrements we’d been loaded up with. Then, receiving our “Bridge Climb Sydney” hats — nothing like being walking billboards for the experience — we went off to change out of our climb suits.

    Of course, with no cameras of our own, it was a foregone conclusion that we’d be buying the “official photos” from our climb. Having pre-purchased the package with our climb tickets, picking up a voucher to download the photos at our leisure was all we had to do.

    Thus, not only have we joined the millions of everyday guys and gals who have accomplished the climb over the past 25 years, but we are also now in the company of celebrities like Oprah Winfrey, Will Smith, Matt Damon, Nicole Kidman, Robert De Niro, Pierce Brosnan, Cate Blanchett, Prince Harry, and many others who have conquered the Coathanger.

    Oh by the way … if you are amongst those who would only venture onto the bridge due to the additional safety measure provided to the structure by the four pylons added after the bridge was constructed. I hate to burst your bubble, but those pylons are just for show and do nothing for the bridge. In fact, they are not even secured to the bridge structure!
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  • Art-deco ANZAC Memorial — Hyde Park ... Sydney, Australia.
    ANZAC Memorial from the entrance to the Lower Floor Centenary Extension — Hyde Park ... Sydney.ANZAC Memorial from the entrance to the Lower Floor Centenary Extension — Hyde Park ... Sydney.ANZAC Memorial thru the oculus over the Hall of Service — Hyde Park ... Sydney.ANZAC Memorial Hall of Service — Hyde Park ... Sydney.ANZAC Memorial Museum ... "A Novel Record" — Hyde Park ... Sydney.ANZAC Memorial Museum — Hyde Park ... Sydney.ANZAC Memorial ... "Sacrifice" ... Hall of Silence — Hyde Park ... Sydney.ANZAC Memorial ... "Sacrifice" ... Hall of Silence — Hyde Park ... Sydney."Sacrifice" thru the Well of Contemplation — Hyde Park ... Sydney.ANZAC Memorial ... Gold Star Dome of the Hall of Memory — Hyde Park ... Sydney.ANZAC Memorial ... Niche of Remembrance ... Gallipoli — Hyde Park ... Sydney.ANZAC Memorial ... Niche of Remembrance ... Gallipoli — Hyde Park ... Sydney.ANZAC Memorial ... Flame Room — Hyde Park ... Sydney.ANZAC Memorial — Hyde Park ... Sydney.ANZAC Memorial ... Hall of Service thru the oculus — Hyde Park ... Sydney.ANZAC Memorial ... Atatürk's Letter to the Mothers — Hyde Park ... Sydney.Memorial to the Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people ... at the ANZAC Memorial — Sydney, NSWANZAC Memorial ... Reflection Pool — Hyde Park ... Sydney, NSW.Australian White Ibis ... at the ANZAC Memorial — Hyde Park, Sydney, NSW.

    Sydney: ANZAC Memorial

    December 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    While we were relaxing at home yesterday — resting up for our Bridge Climb — we worked on a general list of things we want to see/do before we leave Sydney on the 21st.

    Today, we began to chip away at that list.

    It was a busy day of sightseeing! Made possible by comfy temps on a day that started out overcast but turned sunny by mid-afternoon. To save some steps, we started out by taking the T3 train from Circular Quay to the Museum Station, exiting at the south end of Hyde Park. Perfect … exactly where we wanted to be for the short walk to our first stop … the Art Deco style ANZAC Memorial.

    (For those unfamiliar with the term, it’s an acronym that stands for Australia and New Zealand Army Corps. By the way, I really condensed this footprint as best I could … you’ll just have to forgive the length as this site has special meaning for us. I promise, the remainder of today’s footprints won’t be nearly as wordy.)

    The ANZACs and the Turks were on opposite sides during WWI. In fact, they faced each other in some of the worst battles of the war … the Gallipoli Campaign … Gelibolu, in Turkish. Yet, they forged a special relationship that endures to this day. Whenever the opportunity presents itself during our travels, Mui and I search out ANZAC memorials … and participate in remembrance ceremonies … most recently aboard Insignia during our world cruise … and hopefully here in Australia before we leave.

    With that as a background … let’s move on to today’s memorial visit.

    The website describes the memorial as “A physical expression of the spirit and legend of the ANZAC — Honouring Service, and the Courage, Endurance, and Sacrifice by all servicemen, servicewomen and their families.” A quote, in part, by Bruce Dellit, designer of the memorial, describes war as leaving “… burning embers of destruction — is no thing of glamour and no cause for glorification.” Honoring sacrifices made by those who served without glorifying war is a delicate balance … well achieved at the memorial.

    Though we tend to associate the term ANZAC with the Gallipoli Campaign of WWI as that is when it was first used, the memorial is for all Australians, all armed and auxiliary services, and all campaigns in which they were involved. This is apparent in the imagery, symbolism, and inscriptions around the memorial.

    We found everything about the memorial exceptionally moving …

    … from the Hall of Service where the names of the places from which the WWI enlistees hailed are etched into black marble with embedded containers of soil from those places … and the ring of soil in the floor representing 100 battlefields and sites of military significance for service personnel from NSW;

    … to the Hall of Silence … at the center of which stands George Rayner Hoff’s “Sacrifice” … based on the story of Spartan warriors from Greece being sent off to war with the words “to come home with their shield or on it”;

    … to the Hall of Memory … with its balustraded-opening decorated like a wreath forming the top of the Well of Contemplation looking down on the Hall of Silence … the Dome of Stars with some 120,000 gold stars representing the men and women who served overseas during the Great War … the Flame Room with what we would refer to as the eternal flame, flanked by the flags of Australia, New Zealand, and NSW … the Niches of Remembrance representing the principal theaters of war in which the Australians served during the Great War … Gallipoli, the Western Front, Egypt and the Sinai-Palestine, and the principal sea battles of the Royal Australian Navy;

    … to the plaque with the words of Atatürk’s famous “Letter to the Mothers” … addressed to the mothers of the ANZAC soldiers who fell during the Gallipoli Campaign and who are buried in Gelibolu;

    … to the special memorial to all Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people who served to defend the country … consisting of giant bullets … some upright, some on their sides.

    I’ll end this footprint with the words at the bottom of the plaque at Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Memorial … meaningful words that also explain the positioning of the “bullets” … and which are appropriate to the ANZAC Memorial in general …

    “We remember those fallen … We honor those standing.”
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  • Sydney: Australian Museum

    December 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    From the ANZAC Memorial, we walked about mid-way down Hyde Park and then took a right to go to the Australian Museum across the street.

    The museum is billed as a place to experience “science, culture, and nature in the heart of Sydney.” Founded in 1827, it is Australia’s first museum. Today there are some 21 million cultural and scientific objects that are rotated through the exhibits.

    The amazing thing is that except for special exhibitions, such as the current “Ramses & the Gold of the Pharaohs,” there is no admission charged. Having spent three weeks in Egypt in 2018, we opted to skip the paid exhibit and visited the permanent ones only.

    With so much to see, we decided to focus on a few key exhibits … the 200 Treasures in the beautiful Westpac Long Gallery taking up most of our time. Of course, we didn’t skip the others … we just wandered through them at a faster speed.

    The 200 Treasures exhibit actually consists of 100 artifacts deemed most-valued plus the stories of 100 of Australia’s most-influential people. I must admit that I had a hard time stopping myself from photographing all of the treasured items, but I did my best as I would have otherwise still been in the gallery at closing time.

    Between visiting the galleries, we ended up on the top floor where we found one of the several food places in the museum — Bistro Gadi. It is apparently a pop-up venue. The menu had an Egyptian flare … a nod to the Ramses exhibit, I imagine. The concept was simple … one main + two sides; one main + 3 sides; 3-sides, etc … priced accordingly. With beautiful views of Hyde Park, St Mary’s Cathedral, and Woolloomooloo Bay as a bonus, it was a good place to take a break.
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  • St Mary's Cathedral — Sydney, NSW.
    St Mary's Cathedral — Sydney, NSW.St Mary's Cathedral — Sydney, NSW.St Mary's Cathedral — Sydney, NSW.St Mary's Cathedral — Sydney, NSW.St Mary's Cathedral — Sydney, NSW.St Mary's Cathedral — Sydney, NSW.St Mary's Cathedral — Sydney, NSW.The crypt at St Mary's Cathedral — Sydney, NSW.The crypt at St Mary's Cathedral — Sydney, NSW.The crypt at St Mary's Cathedral — Sydney, NSW.The crypt at St Mary's Cathedral — Sydney, NSW.The crypt at St Mary's Cathedral — Sydney, NSW.The crypt at St Mary's Cathedral — Sydney, NSW.The crypt at St Mary's Cathedral — Sydney, NSW.St Mary's Cathedral from Hyde Park — Sydney, NSW.The J.F. Archibald Fountain ... Hyde Park — Sydney, NSW.The J.F. Archibald Fountain ... Hyde Park — Sydney, NSW.

    Sydney: St Mary’s Cathedral

    December 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    From the Australian Museum we crossed the street to St Mary’s Cathedral.

    Considered the spiritual heart of Catholic Sydney, the foundation stone for the church was set in 1821 by Governor Macquarie. That first cathedral was destroyed by a fire in 1865. The one that stands today was built in two phases between 1866 and 1928, but it wasn’t until the year 2000 that the original design was fully completed. In the English Gothic revival style, it is Australia’s largest cathedral.

    We entered through the front door, I took a photo from the rear of the aisle, and just then the priest arrived to say Mass. Ooops, no more photos. Leaving would have disrupted the service, so we sat down to wait it out.

    I snuck out at one point to go down to the crypt — which the deacon said was OK to visit during Mass. There were beautiful tile details to keep me occupied for part of the service while Mui used the time to rest in a pew at the back of the church.

    Once the service was over and the congregants had left, I wandered around, studying the beautiful stained glass windows and taking photographs. Then, we were off to continue our sightseeing.
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  • The Hyde Park Barracks Museum — Sydney, NSW.
    The Hyde Park Barracks Museum — Sydney, NSW.Map showing the convict sites in Australia ... Hyde Park Barracks Museum — Sydney, NSW.Gov Macquarie ... influenced the transition of NSW from a penal colony to a free settlement.Dioramas like these help tell the story ... Hyde Park Barracks Museum — Sydney, NSW.Wall built with bricks made by the convicts ... Hyde Park Barracks Museum — Sydney, NSW.Sample bricks made by convicts ... Hyde Park Barracks Museum — Sydney, NSW.Original brickwork ... Hyde Park Barracks Museum — Sydney, NSW.Open ceiling showing details of the construction ... Hyde Park Barracks Museum — Sydney, NSW.The commentary in the "Hammocks Room" consisted of snoring men ... Hyde Park Barracks Museum.Convict tradesmen plied their craft upon arrival at the penal colony ... Hyde Park Barracks Museum.Convict attire ... Hyde Park Barracks Museum — Sydney, NSW.Exhibit room ... Hyde Park Barracks Museum — Sydney, NSW.Miniature dioramas help tell the story ... Hyde Park Barracks Museum — Sydney, NSW.Some convicts were pardoned; others received tickets of leave to establish/run their own businesses.Tools of punishment ... Hyde Park Barracks Museum — Sydney, NSW.Depicting when the barracks were used as a women's asylum ... Hyde Park Barracks Museum — Sydney.Matron's uniform at the asylum ... Hyde Park Barracks Museum — Sydney, NSW.Diorama depicting the growth of the city into a free settlement.

    Sydney: Hyde Park Barracks Museum

    December 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    As we were very near the Hyde Park Barracks Museum, from the Archibald Fountain in the park we crossed the street to check it out.

    A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the barracks are described as an “extraordinary record of the living legacy of colonial Australia.” The compound, built to house convicts, was constructed between 1817-1819 … designed by convict architect Francis Greenway. Later it served as a depot and asylum for immigrant women. Then it transitioned into law courts and government offices. Today it is a very-well done museum to which admission is free.

    On arrival, we were given headphones and receivers that are essential for the immersive experience.

    The visit then started on the top floor of the building. As you move from one room to another — or from one display to another — the receiver senses your location and the appropriate commentary automatically starts up. The descriptions are fairly short … on purpose, I would think, because if you move away to another spot, the receiver senses the change and the story changes with the move.

    Dioramas and artifacts in display cases aid in bringing alive the experiences of the men and women who lived in the barracks back in the day.

    We both found this to be a fascinating museum.
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  • St James' is Sydney's oldest church — Sydney, NSW.
    St James' Church — Sydney, NSW.St James' Church — Sydney, NSW.St James' Church — Sydney, NSW.Chapel of the Holy Spirit ... St James' Church — Sydney, NSW.Children's Chapel @ St James' Church — Sydney, NSW.Children's Chapel @ St James' Church — Sydney, NSW.

    Sydney: St James’ Church

    December 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Before wrapping up our day with errands, we stopped in for a quick look-see at St James’ Church.

    Constructed between 1819-1824, it is Sydney’s oldest church. It was designed by the same convict architect — Francis Greenway — who designed the Hyde Park Barracks.

    This Anglican church wasn’t supposed to be a church at all. Rather, it was supposed to be a courthouse for Governor Macquarie. But a commissioner who was sent down from London overruled the governor and deemed the building to be constructed as a church.

    Regardless of what it ended up being, it is one of the surviving group of Macquarie Period buildings in the country. Though changes have been made since it’s completion in 1824, the building’s exterior has remained in the style of a Georgian town church.

    While the undercroft was used for many different purposes over the years — to bed down Allied servicemen during WWII being one of them — the feature that draws visitors down into that part of the church is the Children’s Chapel that was opened in 1929 for younger children. The walls and ceilings of the chapel are decorated with colorful murals.

    We went down to see the murals, but had to be satisfied with studying them through the glass door as the room was locked.
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  • Under the Sydney Harbour Bridge (I'm cheating ... this photo was taken yesterday).
    Climb Base ... leading out of the ready room to the catwalk — Sydney Harbour Bridge.The first of many catwalks we negotiated to get to the southeast pylon for our bridge climb.Climbers returning along the catwalk — Sydney Harbour Bridge.View from under the Sydney Harbour Bridge.Bridge stats from an info panel at the Pylon Museum — Sydney, NSW.Historic construction photos of the bridge @ the Pylon Museum — Sydney, NSW.Historic construction photos of the bridge @ the Pylon Museum — Sydney, NSW.The stained glass windows depict the different trade workers who constructed the bridge — Sydney.Photo op at the Pylon Museum — Sydney, NSW.Disrupting the ribbon cutting ... he did get his sentence reversed ... and the fine refunded.From the Pylon Lookout — Sydney, NSW.Check out the climbers on the bridge — from the Pylon Lookout ... Sydney.Taking turns going down the ladder to get below the road deck — from the Pylon Lookout.View towards Lavender Bay ... from the Pylon Lookout — Sydney, NSW.View towards Circular Quay ... from the Pylon Lookout — Sydney, NSW.Can't resist a photo op with the Opera House — Sydney, NSW.The Opera House tiles are off-white to cut down on the glare from the sun (when it is shining).Taking in the skyline on both sides of the bridge — Sydney, NSW.

    Sydney: Pylon Museum & Lookout

    December 19, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    “Our Bridge is made from a whopping 550,000 pieces of steel!”

    “6 million or 3200 tons of rivets hold our Bridge together!”

    “Did we mention it’s a pretty-strong Bridge? 96 trains were shunted onto the Bridge for load-testing … .”

    Those are just some of the tidbits we learned from today’s first outing.

    Our sixth day in Sydney dawned overcast … the skies hazy with wildfire smoke. I was hoping that it would clear before we set off for the Bridge Climb Pylon Museum & Lookout. No such luck. Oh well … with rain in the forecast for the next two days, we decided to proceed with our plan anyway.

    We started out by walking under the Sydney Harbour Bridge to check out — during daylight— the catwalks we had scrambled on and around to get to the ladders that had led us above the road deck for our bridge climb. As luck would have it, there were some climbers to add visual interest. (Just pretend they are us when you look at the photos 🤭)

    Finding the elevator from the street level up to the bridge level, next we took a short stroll to the southeast pylon where the museum and lookout are located. And then came the steps … over 200 in all … with some 130 of them from the museum level up to the lookout, which sits at 290+ feet above sea level.

    The focus of the small museum is the planning and construction of the bridge. There are a couple of artifacts in display cases, however, the exhibits are mostly short snippets of info to read … accompanied by historic photos. A 7-minute video, shown on a loop, highlights the key information … a quick overview, if you will.

    The Lookout is billed as the original Sydney city observation terrace. It’s worth the climb … though it would have been even better if we’d had blue skies as a backdrop for the scenery. Nonetheless, we enjoyed seeing the Sydney Harbour Bridge from a different perspective, searching out and finding the places we had climbed and walked on our bridge climb just two nights ago.
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  • Sydney: Opera House Tour (Thumbs Down)

    December 19, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 88 °F

    Our preferred backstage tour for the Sydney Opera House, a UNESCO World Heritage Site — recognized as “a masterpiece of human creativity” — had been sold out for quite sometime. Same with tickets for Swan Lake, the only performance we were interested in seeing. So, after checking one more time for cancelations earlier this week, we gave in and booked the 1-hour general tour.

    After finishing up at the Pylon Museum and Lookout , we strolled towards the Opera House. We still had time before our 2:45p tour, so we checked out some restaurants to get a bite for lunch. We settled on the East Chinese Restaurant, opting to sit inside as not only was it smoky outside, it was also humid … which made it quite uncomfortable on an already hot day.

    Arriving at the tour meeting point, we “cloaked” Mui’s daypack as it was deemed bigger than a piece of A3 paper. We then met up with the tour guide, who checked our tickets and issued headsets. All good so far.

    Unfortunately, I can’t say that the tour was was good. We didn’t see much that was truly interesting … and the commentary didn’t give us any insight that we couldn’t have gleaned for ourselves from the internet. Certainly, the tour wasn’t worth the money. It falls into the “loss” category for today.

    We started out with a short multimedia presentation that didn’t provide any information … just a sped up collection of photos and imagery set to loud music. Then we went into a room that was initially meant to be storage for the Main Stage above it … but was converted into a small stage for plays. Nothing really interesting there.

    Our route then took us up a bunch of stairs to the red-carpeted foyer for the Joan Sutherland Theater … used for opera and ballet performances. We did go into the theater itself … after watching a brief video about the building’s history in the lobby. No photos inside the theater, however … no idea why.

    Next, we went out to the open space between the two sides of the Opera House … this was sort of interesting as we got a different perspective of the “sails.” And then it was over. No, we did not get to go into the Main Stage … there was a matinee performance. True, the Opera House is an operating facility and there is always something going on somewhere. Disappointing nonetheless.

    We drowned our disappointment with a chocolate orange fondant cake at Guylian, a café associated with the famous Belgian chocolatier.
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  • Entrance to the Art Gallery of NSW — Sydney.
    "Myth of the Western Man (white man's burden)" ... by G. Bennett — Sydney, NSW.Art Gallery of NSW — Sydney."Shepherdess Holding a Posy" (c1770-73) — Sydney, NSW.Art Gallery of NSW — Sydney."Puck on a Toadstool" ... by H. Hosmer — Sydney, NSW."Blossom Gatherers II" ... by R. Shaw — Sydney, NSW."Compulsory Education" ... by B.Riviére — Sydney, NSW.Art Gallery of NSW — Sydney."An Autumn Morning, Milsons Point, Sydney, 1888" ... by T. Roberts — Sydney, NSW."The Captive" ... by J.E. Millais — Sydney, NSW."Cricket Cage" ... by Masanobu — Sydney, NSW."Uga Benzaiten" ... by H. Maekawa — Sydney, NSW."Brick Vase Clay Cup Jug Room" ... Art Gallery of NSW — Sydney.Art Gallery of NSW — Sydney."Hand of the Lord" ... by Houghton — Sydney, NSW.Art Gallery of NSW — Sydney.Art Gallery of NSW — Sydney.Art Gallery of NSW — Sydney.From Hoda Afshar's photography exhibit — Sydney, NSW.

    Sydney: Rainy Day Art Wrap-Up

    December 20, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    It rained all day. In other words, a perfect day to spend indoors at the Art Gallery of NSW.

    The museum is billed as one of the country’s flagship art museums. When it was first established in 1871 it had neither a collection nor a building. Those came later. Over the following 150 years, the museum not only changed names, but locations as well. One thing that didn’t change was the role it continues to play in the cultural life of NSW as well as Australia.

    As a public museum, there is no admission charged … except for special exhibits, like the current one … featuring Kandinsky’s work. We opted to skip it as there was more than enough to see in the free galleries.

    In fact, a little after noon, we had to take a break for lunch before continuing with the remaining galleries. The first restaurant we tried at the museum wasn’t even seating anyone without reservations. That’s how popular it is. So, we went to the Gallery Café instead. The place was packed, but we were seated after a 5-minute wait. A hearty soup seemed like the perfect choice on a rainy day … and it was. Mui enjoyed his green papaya salad, a specialty of the chef.

    Then back to exploring the museum. Just when we’d think, “OK, we’ve visited all the galleries,” rounding a corner, or coming up to what looked like a wall from a distance, would lead us to another room. Amazing place.

    We finally left the museum around 3:15p. It was still raining … steady, light, wet. After running some errands, we headed home to leftovers for dinner … from yesterday’s lunch at the East Chinese Restaurant. Then, the dreaded packing chore … ugh!

    The Sydney bag has been repacked … the carry on bags await toiletries and other last minute items before they can be zipped up.

    We’re ready for the next phase of our Australia adventure.

    Tomorrow we embark Regatta.
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  • Hello Regatta! — Sydney, NSW.

    Regatta Heading to White Bay

    December 21, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Regatta is small enough to go under the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

    That means she had to sail by our apartment in The Rocks to get to the White Bay Cruise Terminal where we will embark her for our Australian Panorama Circumnavigation later this morning.Read more

  • White Bay Cruise Terminal — Sydney, NSW.
    Whiling away the time as we wait for our stateroom to be ready — Aboard Insignia @ WBCT ... Sydney.Regatta is all decorated for the holidays.Regatta is all decorated for the holidays.Regatta is all decorated for the holidays.Cabin 4052 ... an oceanview cabin just a few doors down from Reception on Deck 4 — Regatta.Having the beds split makes the cabin feel much more spacious — Regatta.

    Embarked Regatta @ WBCT

    December 21, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 68 °F

    20-minute ride to WBCT [White Bay Cruise Terminal] … drop off checked bags for delivery to the cabin … short wait for the check-in stalls to open.

    By 11:15a, we were onboard Regatta. A quick stop in the Grand Dining Room [GDR] to check-in at our muster station … no formal mustering anymore; everything is done by video and a scan of ship’s cards to confirm you know where your muster station is located.

    Regatta is a twin of Insignia, on which we spent over 200 years this year. Thus, familiar with the layout and where everything is, we didn’t need to wander around to get our bearings. Just a few stops to photograph the holiday cheer around the ship and then up to the Terrace Café for lunch. With very few people onboard at that time, the venue was unusually quiet. That would be changing by the time we left to while away time at the Horizons Lounge on Deck 10 forward.

    On this cruise, we are in an oceanview cabin. What that means is that our stateroom would not be ready until 3:00p or thereabouts. No worries. I used the time to upload a couple of footprints. Mui read for a bit. We also set up our ship wi-fi accounts … the plural is not a typo … every stateroom gets two logins now … regardless of whether booked under the Simply More promotion.

    When the announcement came that all stateroom categories were now ready, we headed to 4052 to get ourselves settled in for the next month … plus a few days. Our luggage had been delivered, so unpacking and storing our belongings didn’t have to wait until later in the afternoon.

    Now to go up to Deck 10 and enjoy the sail away from Sydney.

    The good news … the on again, off again drizzle is finally history.
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