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Adventuring Down Under
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun

Adventuring Down Under

Circumnavigation of Australia aboard Oceania Regatta ... with pre-cruise in Sydney … and a couple of months overland. Read more
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  • Adventuring Down Under
    A beautiful day in Australia's Capital — Canberra, ACT.

    Canberra: Feeling Human Again

    March 7, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Who wouldn’t — feel better and human again — with a view like this to look out on?

    But all kidding aside, a day of rest at the apartment has made a big difference from yesterday when we both were feeling miserable. We managed to get the laundry done, too!Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    Welcome to the Australian War Memorial — Canberra, ACT.
    "Elevation of the Senses" (E. Coates) ... commemorates role of Explosive Detection Dogs & handlers"Menin Gate at Midnight" (W. Longstaff) ... ghostly images of those who died skirt the bottom edge."Darwin, 19 February 1942" by R. Honisett — AWM ... Canberra, ACT."Bombing of Darwin" by S. W. Wanji ... a Tiwi Islander — AWM ... Canberra, ACT.Recruitment poster — AWM ... Canberra, ACT."Country and Culture will be protected by spears" by K. Angakanyini — AWM ... Canberra, ACT.Lone Pine (Gallipoli) diorama — AWM ... Canberra, ACT.Program art work for the ANZAC Day service held in South Australia in 1916.The Charge of the 3rd Light Horse Brigade at The Nek on 7 August 1915.Crocheted milk jug cover — AWM ... Canberra, ACT."Water Carrier" by W. Anderson — AWM ... Canberra, ACT."Çanakkale Rug" commemorates the Ottomon victory in repelling the Allied fleet in March 1915.One of several pieces of art describing transportation of supplies in Palestine.Australian War Memorial — Canberra, ACT."Truce at Tobruk" (J. Dowie) — AWM ... Canberra, ACT."Ballet of Wind & Rain" (C. Colahan) — AWM ... Canberra, ACT."No. 1 Projectile Shop" (S. Craig) — AWM ... Canberra, ACT."Morning After Night Shift" (D. Hawthorne) — AWM ... Canberra, ACT.As of Today (A. Seton) ... commemorates Australian soldiers who lost their lives in Afghanistan.

    Canberra: Australian War Memorial

    March 8, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Each state capital we have visited in Australia has a war memorial. Each town has a “Lest We Forget” monument. Canberra — as the capital of Australia — is home to the Australian War Memorial (AWM).

    After a day of resting to jump start our recuperation from whatever bug we had picked up while on the IP, today we headed off to start our Canberra sightseeing at the AWM. (Feeling much better … thank you very much.)

    Established in 1925, the idea for the AWM germinated soon after WWI … to honor service members who served and died in WWI. It was unveiled to the public in 1941. The scope has since been expanded to include not only WWII, but other conflicts in which Australians have served.

    Admission is free, but requires a timed entry — two hour slots. That was nowhere near enough for us as by the end of two hours we had only covered the WWI exhibits in the museum. No worries, a quick visit to the ticket office extended our time another two hours.

    The stories of the Australian men and women who served in military conflicts is told through exhibits, artifacts, and art. There was so much to see and digest. Not to mention share. Not enough time or space to do so in this footprint. So, this one is focused on the art from the museum galleries of the AWM.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    Commemorative Area with the Hall of Memory at the far end — AWM ... Canberra, ACT.
    Commemorative Area with the Hall of Memory at the far end — AWM ... Canberra, ACT.Eternal Flame — AWM ... Camberra, ACT.Looking back across the Commemorative Area from the Hall of Memory — AWM ... Camberra, ACT.Hall of Memory — AWM ... Camberra, ACT.Hall of Memory — AWM ... Camberra, ACT.Tomb of the Unknown Australian Soldier at the Hall of Memory — AWM ... Camberra, ACT.Tomb of the Unknown Australian Soldier at the Hall of Memory — AWM ... Camberra, ACT.Hall of Memory — AWM ... Camberra, ACT.Tomb of the Unknown Australian Soldier at the Hall of Memory — AWM ... Camberra, ACT.Hall of Memory — AWM ... Camberra, ACT.Hall of Memory — AWM ... Camberra, ACT.Roll of Honor — AWM ... Camberra, ACT.The ANZAC Parade from the AWM ... Parliament at the far end — Canberra, ACT.

    Canberra: AWM … Hall of Memory

    March 8, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    From the museum, we continued to the heart of the Australian War Memorial … the Hall of Memory.

    To reach the hall, one must walk through the Commemorative Area with its reflection pool and eternal flame, and the roll of honor on either side … decorated with poppies.

    The hall is where one finds the Tomb of the Unknown Australian Soldier. All of the decorative elements are symbolic in one way or another — the 15 stained glass windows depict servicemen and servicewomen from WWI … each representing a quality such as devotion, candor, sacrifice, and more; mosaics of servicemen and servicewomen of WWII … representing a soldier, a nurse, a sailor, and an airman; pillars representing the four elements … air, fire, earth, and water. The dome — Byzantine in style — is the most recognizable aspect of the AWM.

    As we’ve found in other state memorials, it is a place of solitude and reflection.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    The original Lone Pine tree that was planted by the Duke of Gloucester — AWM ... Canberra, ACT.
    Plaque near the original pine tree showing the Gallipoli Memorials in Gelibolu — AWM ... Canberra."War" by B. Mackennal ... at the site of the original Lone Pine — AWM ... Canberra, ACT.The new Lone Pine sapling planted by William & Kate is growing strong and sturdy — Canberra, ACT.The Australian War Memorial from the Sculpture Precinct — Canberra, ACT.

    Canberra: AWM … Lone Pine Tree

    March 8, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Lone Pine — on Turkey’s Gelibolu Peninsula … site of the Gallipoli Campaign of WWI — is where the ANZAC and Turkish soldiers fought one of the battles of the campaign. It was so named due to the single pine tree that stood at the site.

    The story goes that an Australian soldier, whose brother had died in the Lone Pine Battle, found a pine cone in the tree branches the Turkish soldiers had used to cover their trenches. He sent the cone to his mother, who planted the seeds from it in the ground at their home. Two saplings grew from the planting … one was sent to New South Wales and the other was planted by Prince Henry, Duke of Gloucester, at the Australian War Memorial in Canberra.

    The tree remains where it was planted, though it did suffer some damage during a strong storm in 2008. The tree is apparently coming near the end of its natural life span. So, on ANZAC Day 2014, Prince William and Kate — then the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge — planted another sapling propagated from seeds gathered after the Battle of Lone Pine. Thus, the tradition continues.

    Both of the trees are in what is called the Sculpture Precinct … adjacent to the AWM. So, after our visit to the Hall of Memory, we headed over there to take a look at them.

    By the way, there are a number of these trees around Australia … propagated in the same manner.

    (If interested, this link will take you to the photo gallery from my 2008 visit to the sites of the Gallipoli Campaign. You’ll recognize the ones from Lone Pine from the single tree in the cemetery that now sits on those hallowed grounds … https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Europe/Turkey-2008/G….)    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    Atatürk Memorial ... ANZAC Parade — Canberra, ACT.
    Atatürk Memorial ... ANZAC Parade — Canberra, ACT.Atatürk Memorial ... ANZAC Parade — Canberra, ACT.Atatürk Memorial ... ANZAC Parade — Canberra, ACT.Atatürk Memorial ... ANZAC Parade — Canberra, ACT.Atatürk Memorial ... ANZAC Parade — Canberra, ACT.Atatürk Memorial ... ANZAC Parade — Canberra, ACT.Atatürk Memorial ... ANZAC Parade — Canberra, ACT.

    Canberra: ANZAC Pde & Atatürk Memorial

    March 8, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    The ANZAC Parade is set along Canberra’s Land Axis … part of the original 1912 plan for the city. At one end stands the Australian War Memorial. At the other end is Parliament House.

    Any other time, we would have walked down one side of the 1.5 mile-long boulevard and up the other side to check out all the memorials that line it. But time wasn’t our friend today. We had doctor’s appointments for the crud we picked up on the train.

    But before we hopped in an Uber to return to Kingston, we made time to visit the one memorial that held the most significance to us … the Kemal Atatürk Memorial. It sits at the top of the ANZAC Parade closest to the Australian War Memorial. The brochure explains that “… it is part of an agreement between Australian and Turkish governments on commemorative gestures to acknowledge the 70th anniversary of the Gallipoli landing.”

    The memorial is the only one on the ANZAC Parade dedicated to an individual … showing the respect in which Atatürk, commander of the Turkish Forces during the campaign and later the first president of the fledgling country, is held. At the center, is soil from Gallipoli; around the memorial are pines grown from seeds collected at Lone Pine. The crescent shape of the memorial and the five columns represent the crescent and five-pointed star on the Turkish flag.

    Of course, Atatürk’s “Letters to the Mothers” holds pride of place here … as it does in every such memorial we’ve seen in Australia. And in New Zealand, for that matter.

    An appropriate end to our day at the Australian War Memorial.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    Entrance to the National Museum of Australia — Canberra, ACT.
    A glimpse down into the Garden of Australian Dreams — Canberra, ACT.Garden of Australian Dreams — Canberra, ACT.Prototype of the Holden ... an Australian icon with a Propert "Trailway" touring caravan.Entrance to the gallery represents a forest of bunya trees — National Museum of Australia.An opalized cone of an Araucaria species, an ancient relative of the bunya (100M yo).Rhodochrosite with amethyst quartz ... Broken Hill, NSW — National Museum of Australia."Julawuna (Cyclone)" by Yorna 'Donny' Woolagoodja — National Museum of Australia.Danger and devastation — National Museum of Australia.An Ngarrindjeri Elder conducting a smoking ceremony near the mouth of the Murray River.Chamber Pot from late 19th-early 20th century — National Museum of Australia."Kicked Out of Parliament" by J. 'Boza' Williams — National Museum of Australia.'Hollow Log" cabin built by a geologist couple inside an iron water tank ... transported by truck.Bagu figure ... inspired by traditional fire-making equipment used in the rainforest.Engraving of Uluru by J Brauer from a drawing by E. Berry.Poster marking the handback of Uluru to traditional owners ... signed by Anangu people.Kulbasaibai canoe ... Torres Strait."Dhoeri" by G. Nona — National Museum of Australia.Breastplates were awarded to Aboriginals to encourage cooperation.Telling the story of Aboriginal kids being taken from their parents and sent to missions.

    Canberra: National Museum of Australia

    March 9, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    On a quiet Saturday — surprising since this is a three-day weekend … Monday is Canberra Day — we had ourselves a two museum day.

    First up was the National Museum of Australia.

    I’ve said this before … Australia knows how to do museums well. The quality of the exhibits are exceptional … and a great many of the national and state museums are “donations gratefully accepted.” This one, which “preserves and interprets Australia’s social history, exploring the key issues, people and events that have shaped the nation. …” was no exception.

    Having been established in 1980, it is a relatively young museum. In fact, it wasn’t until 2001 that a purpose-built permanent home was constructed. Exhibits cover 50,000 years of Aboriginal heritage and the settlement of the country since 1788.

    One brochure states that the museum has the largest collection of Aboriginal bark paintings. Then there are displays that include the heart of Phar Lap, a champion race horse; the prototype Holden car; a delicate porcelain chamber pot; minerals and fossils; and more. A good amount of space is dedicated to the natural disasters — cyclones and bushfires in a particular — that plague the country frequently.

    In other words … a very eclectic collection, which I tried to portray in this footprint with the photos I selected to share.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    A Summer Project ... the first major collection of paintings from Utopia & Sandover Region.
    Epa festival mask (a mother with many children) by D. Areogun (Nigeria) — NGA ... Canberra, ACT."The Trial" from Sidney Nolan's Ned Kelly series — NGA ... Canberra, ACT."Sacred Grasses" by A. P. Bird (Australia) — NGA ... Canberra, ACT.1"Not Everyone's Cup of Tea" by B. Douglas (Dhungatti/German/Irish/Scottish).Standing Bodhisattva (3rd century) and Lucian Freud's "After Cézanne" (a parody).B. Oliver's Seashells (foreground) & K. Smith's Earth/Underground/Sky (background).Meiji period (1868-1912) covered jar from Japan — NGA."Nymphéas" by C. Monet (France) — NGA ... Canberra, ACT."The Abduction of Europa" by H. Matisse (France) — NGA ... Canberra, ACT.Aardvark or pig mask by Chokwe people (Angola) — NGA ... Canberra, ACT."Mama Wulu" (Late Bronze Age ... possibly Borneo) — NGA ... Canberra, ACT."Aboriginal Memorial" consisting of hollow log ceremonial coffins from Central Arnhem Land — NGA."Aboriginal Memorial" consisting of hollow log ceremonial coffins from Central Arnhem Land — NGA.A mourning portrait by Robert Dowling ... 1st professional artist trained in Australia."Wreath for Oodgeroo" by C. McGregor ... using brushtail possum pelts.Busts of Woureddy (Aboriginal Chief of Van Diemen's Land) & his wife, Trucaninny ... by B. Law."Myall Creek Rorschach" by B. Quilty (Australia) — NGA ... Canberra, ACT."Ambum Stone" (1500-6000 BCE) ... thought to depict a baby long-nosed echidna."Hippolyta and the Amazon Defying Theseus" by J. Broome-Norton (Australia).

    Canberra: National Gallery of Australia

    March 9, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    We don’t usually do two museums in one day. But we made an exception today to take advantage of the special late closing time for the National Gallery of Australia (NGA).

    Another wonderful museum, the NGA is home to what is billed as the most valuable collection of art in the country. The website states that the “… national collection comprises over 155,000 works of art, including the world’s largest collection of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art. Our significant collection represents the whole of Australian art, modern art worldwide, particularly from Europe and America, and art from across Asia and the Pacific. …”

    The museum aims to inspire all Australians. If you ask me, they go beyond that and inspire everyone who steps inside to see the collection. Good thing we had comfortable shoes on as there was a lot of walking involved to see it all.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    "Self-nature is subtle and mysterious - Tree Woman/Woman Tree" by Nell — National Portrait Gallery.
    "Maggie" (Maggie Beer, culinary icon) by D. K. Barton — National Portrait Gallery ... Canberra, ACT."The Writer, Peter Goldsworthy" by D. But-Husaim ... I like the photo-style portrait — Canberra."Girl with Big Stick, Cooloman and Bird" by R. Sharpe — National Portrait Gallery ... Canberra."Jarinyanu Dancing at Broome Festival" by Jarinyanu D. Downs — National Portrait Gallery, Canberra."Marilyn Rowe" (principal dancer) by G. Thorley — National Portrait Gallery, Canberra.National Portrait Gallery — Canberra, ACT.National Portrait Gallery — Canberra, ACT.Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo on the grounds of the National Portrait Gallery — Canberra, ACT.Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo on the grounds of the National Portrait Gallery — Canberra, ACT.

    Canberra: National Portrait Gallery

    March 10, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    “To reflect the face of Australia, tell Australian stories and increase understanding and appreciation of Australian people through the art of portraiture — their identity, history, culture, creativity, and diversity.”

    That is how the website describes the vision and purpose of the National Portrait Gallery … where we started our sightseeing on our last day in Canberra.

    Admittedly, we stopped by this museum only because of its proximity to somewhere else we wanted to visit. Why? Because we expected that the portraits on exhibit would be of people whose names would be unfamiliar to us. That was indeed the case.

    Thus our visit was a quick in-out before we moved on.

    I was glad to see the rock art in the garden and we did get a chance to watch sulphur-crested cockatoos breakfasting nearby.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    Old Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.
    Dame Tagney (first female senator) & Dame Lyons (first female Representative) — Canberra, ACT.From the Gardens of Old Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.Senate Chamber ... Old Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.Senate Chamber ... Old Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.Old Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.Old Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.Exhibit about Queen Elizabeth's first State Visit in 1954 ... Old Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.Exhibit about Queen Elizabeth's first State Visit in 1954 ... Old Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.The suite of the Senate President was temporarily redecorated for the Queen's use.Australia's "mini jewel house" displays a set of reproduction court jewels — Old Parliament House.House of Representatives Chamber — Old Parliament House ... Canberra, ACT.House of Representatives Chamber — Old Parliament House ... Canberra, ACT.House of Representatives Chamber — Old Parliament House ... Canberra, ACT.Old Parliament House ... Canberra, ACT."The Greek Mother" was gifted to Australia in 1827, when the Old Parliament House opened."Sacred Country" by J. Green ... anti mining painting — Old Parliament House ... Canberra, ACT."Our Country is Alive and Whitefellas Don't Want to Know" by J. Green ... anti-mining exhibit.Reasserts that the very first footprints on this continent were those of First Nations people.

    Canberra: MoAD @ Old Parliament

    March 10, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    A modern museum inside a heritage-listed Old Parliament House … a building that served as the home of Australia’s federal government from 1927 to 1988. Built on what was once a sheep paddock, the building was never intended to be the permanent home of government.

    In addition to changing exhibits that “ask the how and why of democracy,” visitors can tour various rooms — the Prime Minister’s Suite, which was redecorated for Queen Elizabeth when she made her first State Visit to Australia in 1954; the party offices; the Senate Chamber … decorated in red, because the dye was the most expensive; the House of Representatives Chamber … decorated in green, because the dye was the least expensive.

    An interesting wander … stepping back into the history of Australia’s democracy.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.
    Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.The coat of arms of Australia ... Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.From the roof ... Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.Looking across the Land Axis to the Old Parliament House and the National War Memorial — Canberra.Senate Chamber ... Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.Replica of Australia's copy of the Magna Carta (original being restored) ... Parliament House.The Queen Victoria Table Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.House of Representatives Chamber ... Parliament House — Canberra, ACT."Malwan Pool — Dusk" by L. Onus (Wiradjuri/Yorta Yorta peoples) ... Parliament House — Canberra, ACTFrigate Bird dance mask by K. Thaiday Sr. (Meriam Mir people) ... Parliament House — Canberra, ACT."Timeless" by Dr B. Bancroft (Bundjalung) ... Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.Great Hall ... Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.Tapestry and "King's Table" ... Great Hall ... Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.Looking out from the Queen's Terrace Café ... Parliament House — Canberra, ACT.

    Canberra: Parliament House

    March 10, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    The site of Canberra — the future capital of Australia — was selected in 1908. The government announced an international competition for the design of what they said would be “the finest capital city in the world.” Of the over 130 architects and town planners who submitted designs, Walter Burley Griffin, an American architect, won the competition.

    One of the most important elements of Burley Griffin’s plan is the Land Axis, which aligns Mount Ainslie with Camp Hill and Kurrajong with Mount Bimberi. At one end of the axis is the National War Memorial … and at the other end is Parliament House on Kurrajong (now known as Capital Hill). The Old Parliament House lying in between.

    After visiting the Old Parliament House, we strolled along Federation Mall to Parliament House. The mall, which in many ways reminded us of the mall in Washington, DC, balances the ANZAC Parade, which lies between the old house and the War Memorial. It completes the Land Axis.

    Parliament House, which consists of some 4,700 rooms, was built between 1981 and 1988 when it was inaugurated by Queen Elizabeth. Its shape is based on two boomerangs that are topped by a nearly 270-foot tall flagpole.

    We entered the grand foyer with its soaring ceiling held up by marble columns; peeked into the Great Hall with its oversized tapestry based on an untitled painting by Arthur Boyd; checked out both the Senate and House of Representative chambers … with the same red and green color schemes, respectively; and enjoyed the art on exhibit around the building. A quick snack at the Queen’s Terrace Café wrapped up our visit.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    Commemorative Area with Hall of Memory at the far end — Australian War Memorial in Canberra, ACT.
    WWI soldier being honored in today's Last Post Ceremony at the Australian War Memorial — Canberra.Last Post Ceremony at the Australian War Memorial — Canerra, ACT.Family members waiting to lay wreaths — Last Post @ the Australian War Memorial — Canberra, ACT.Wreath Laying at the Last Post ... Australian War Memorial — Canberra, ACT.Last Post ... Australian War Memorial — Canberra, ACT.Last Post ... Australian War Memorial — Canberra, ACT.Last Post ... Australian War Memorial — Canberra, ACT.Last Post ... Australian War Memorial — Canberra, ACT.

    Canberra: Last Post

    March 10, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Last Post … in the military tradition.

    The Last Post is the bugle call that signifies the end of the day's activities. It is also sounded at military funerals to indicate that the soldier has gone to his final rest.

    When we learned that the daily closing of the Australian War Memorial is preceded by a Last Post, we decided to return this afternoon to participate.

    The ceremony is held in the enclosed courtyard overlooked by the Hall of Memory and the Roll of Honor loggias. This area is known as the Commemorative Area. Each ceremony honors the life and service of a member of the military who has died in service of Country. Family members are invited to attend and lay wreaths. The public is also welcome to attend … spots reserved through the War Memorial ticket office.

    The ceremony includes the playing of the Australian National Anthem; the reading of the life of the honoree; and the sounding of the Last Post. Today’s honoree was a World War I soldier who served in the European Theater of War.

    Very moving ceremony. Glad we were able to participate as a wrap up to our time in Canberra.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    Sunrise over Lake George as we leave Canberra by coach service.

    Canberra to Sydney … by Coach

    March 11, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    When we added Canberra to our itinerary, we did so with round trip train tickets between Sydney and Australia’s capital city.

    Then, a couple of months ago, we were notified by the NSW Link service that our return would be by coach due to track maintenance work scheduled for 9-11 March. We were given the option to cancel … or switch dates.

    We considered doing so. Renting a car from Canberra for our onward travels instead of picking up a rental in Sydney as planned was an option. But then we figured, what the heck … let’s just take the bus … add one more mode of travel to our Down Under Adventures.

    The good news? We were put on the express bus, with only one other stop to pick up passengers along the way. Faster than the train would have been with multiple stops. It was an uneventful drive that had us leaving Canberra Station as hot air balloons started rising aloft in celebration of Canberra Day.

    By the way, heard some news about the Indian Pacific today. That’s the train we took from Perth to Sydney last week. Turns out that the 10 March departure from Perth — which we had considered booking — has been canceled. The reason? Flooding on the Nullarbor due to unusually heavy rainfall. In fact, the area has received almost a year’s worth of rain — 200mm — in just a few days. Not only is passenger and cargo service on the rails disrupted, so is road traffic … the Eyre Highway is closed as well. Service on the IP has been canceled until 17 March. Close call for us!

    Tough year along the south of Australia. Yeah, we had to take a bus instead of the train to get from Canberra to Sydney today. But at least we got through with no adverse weather conditions to deal with.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    Our light and airy retreat is over the garage — Pokolbin, NSW.
    Serene — Pokolbin, NSW.

    Welcome to Pokolbin … Hunter Valley

    March 11, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    Once the coach from Canberra arrived at Sydney Central Station, Mui went to pick up our Avis car rental while I stood guard over our bags.

    What can I say about the drive to get us out of Sydney? Best that it be forgotten. We managed to get on the M1 after a few wrong turns … the GPS just wasn’t fast enough relaying instructions … perhaps because of all the construction detours.

    There are two ways to get to Brisbane from Sydney … some 570 miles away. Follow the coastline or travel via Hunter Valley. We opted for the latter and have given ourselves a week to do so.

    Hunter Valley is considered the birthplace of Australian wines … known particularly for semillon and shiraz varieties. Admittedly, while we enjoy the occasional glass of wine, neither of us are connoisseurs. Nonetheless, we’re looking forward to the peaceful landscapes the area promises are part of the experience.

    If our “light and airy” AirBNB booking is anything to go by … we will have the peaceful, charming experience we’re hoping for … at least for the first couple of days.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.
    Oriental Garden ... Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.Oriental Garden ... Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.Oriental Garden ... Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.Border Garden ... Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.Border Garden ... Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.Storybook Garden ... Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.Storybook Garden ... Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.Storybook Garden ... Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.Sunken Garden ... Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW."Expressions of Love" in the Grandmothers' Garden ... Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW."Expressions of Love" in the Grandmothers' Garden ... Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.Chinese Garden ... Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.Italian Grotto ... Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.Mui finds a pet for himself 😄 ... Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.Indian Garden ... Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.Hunter Valley Gardens — Pokolbin, NSW.Hunter Valley is a popular place for weddings and chapels abound.

    Pokolbin: Hunter Valley Gardens

    March 12, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    A hot day — high of 92F. But beautiful nonetheless with blue skies and sunshine. A perfect day for visiting the Hunter Valley Gardens.

    Built in 1999, the gardens are situated on what used to be horse paddocks and vineyards. Encompassing 14 hectares, the gardens are home to a variety of themed areas — a Sunken Garden with a 33-foot high waterfall; a Storybook Garden where larger-than-life nursery rhymes are brought to life; a Rose Garden … dedicated to grandmothers everywhere; a Formal Garden … influenced by designs from France and England; a Border Garden designed in the classic French parterre style; an Indian Garden flanked by bronze elephants; an Oriental Garden trimmed and manicured with natural curves; a Chinese Garden incorporating traditional elements; and an Italian Grotto featuring a statue of St Francis of Assisi.

    We began with a stroll on the lakes walk and then ventured into the different gardens, following meandering paths. The grounds were beautifully manicured … lush green. But colorful blooms were at a minimum. Talking to one of the gardeners, it became obvious that we were here between seasons, with winter plantings currently in progress.

    Regardless of the lack of blooms, we enjoyed the serene nature of the gardens. And later wrapped up our outing at Café Enzo … recommended by one of the locals. Delicious food.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under

    Pokolbin: ‘Roos in the ‘Hood

    March 13, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Decided to just chill at home today.

    On our way to breakfast at Nineteen, the local café/bistro, we ran into kangaroos out foraging for their own breakfast in the neighborhood. Always fun to see wildlife out in the wild!Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    "Kookaburras" by H. Kirkwood ... the first mural to be completed — Kurri Kurri, NSW.
    Mural on the public toilet block in the park — Kurri Kurri, NSW.Mural on the public toilet block in the park — Kurri Kurri, NSW.Mural on the public toilet block in the park — Kurri Kurri, NSW.Women of WWI Mural ... mother assisting with recruitment — Kurri Kurri, NSW.Women of WWI Mural ... Girls Patriotic League — Kurri Kurri, NSW.Women of WWI Mural ... Maud Butler dressed as a boy to join the war effort — Kurri Kurri, NSW.Pipe Band Mural by J. Dorahy ... honoring the band that has been in existence for 90 years.Garage Mural designed by K. White & painted by G. Franklin — Kurri Kurri, NSW."Australian Christmas" by G. Slevin ... where children can have photos taken with Aussie Santa.Fire Station Mural — Kurri Kurri, NSW.Antiques Mural by C. Staley — Kurri Kurri, NSW.Dedicated to the pit horses that worked on the Greta Coal Seam — Kurri Kurri, NSW.Kookaburra statue in the park — Kurri Kurri, NSW.

    OTR: Kurri Kurri Murals

    March 14, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    After a quiet day of relaxing in Pokolbin, we were ready to set off north through inland roads for a series of one-night stays as we made our way to Brisbane.

    But then I read a snippet about Kurri Kurri being the pre-eminent mural town in Australia … painted works of public art telling the stories of the people, events, and places that shaped the unique character and heritage of the area. So, we added a 90-mile roundtrip detour to our day on the road.

    Arriving in Kurri Kurri, our initial impression was mixed. The small CBD seemed to be under construction … half the shops closed. And yet, there was a vibrancy with the locals going about their daily business. But those same locals didn’t seem all that welcoming to outsiders. Where were the smiles and greetings that we’d experienced in towns and cities thus far in our adventures Down Under?

    Mui had already scoped out a café for breakfast. Walking up and down the CBD, we found no sign of it. Nor did the man at the visitor information center recognize the name when we asked him where we might find the Coffee Shot Café. Google insisted the place was open, however, so we persevered. Aha! It was tucked inside a small mall. Not the ambiance of the small town street café we’d been looking for, but the food was good and the service efficient.

    Following breakfast, we set off in search of murals. The map we had picked up at the visitor center was helpful in finding most of them. We enjoyed the colorful art, but many of them were situated such that photographing them was impossible. Others had been marred with graffiti.

    It was a worthy detour for the most part, but IMHO, Kurri Kurri could take a lesson or two from Sheffield, the mural town of Tasmania.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    Portrait of a Hereford greets guests at the Butchery — Goonoo Goonoo Station, NSW.
    The shearer's quarters — Goonoo Goonoo Station, NSW.Porch of the shearer's quarters — Goonoo Goonoo Station, NSW.Porch view is of more shearer's quarters — Goonoo Goonoo Station, NSW.We're in #6 at the shearer's quarters — Goonoo Goonoo Station, NSW.Horse paddock near the shearer's quarters — Goonoo Goonoo Station, NSW.Our quiet neighbor — Goonoo Goonoo Station, NSW.The stone store is one of the heritage-listed buildings of the village — Goonoo Goonoo Station, NSW.The chapel and the schoolhouse ... heritage-listed buildings of the village — Goonoo Goonoo StationHeritage Cemetery — GoonooShearing shed/Glasshouse Restaurant/wool store — Goonoo Goonoo Station, NSW.View of the heritage-listed village — Goonoo Goonoo Station, NSW.Shearing shed — Goonoo Goonoo Station, NSW.Glasshouse Restaurant — Goonoo Goonoo Station, NSW.Angus cattle in the nearby paddock — Goonoo Goonoo Station, NSW.Angus cattle in the nearby paddock — Goonoo Goonoo Station, NSW.Sheep loading station — Goonoo Goonoo Station, NSW.Comfy on a cool morning — Goonoo Goonoo Station, NSW.

    OTR: Goonoo Goonoo Station

    March 14, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    With our short road trip up to Brisbane planned very loosely, we had only two reservations for accommodations along the way. The first one at an AirBNB in Pokolbin … to relax in the famed Hunter Valley. The one for tonight at Goonoo Goonoo [gun-a-gun-noo] Station … a restored 1830s station/heritage-listed village.

    The name of the station, which translates as “plenty of water,” comes from the language of the Kamilaroi, the traditional owners of the land. Though we did not see any water sources during our short stay, I understand there are many creeks, swamps, and rivers that flow through it.

    Goonoo Goonoo was a sheep station from the 1800s until the 1960s. It operated under the auspices of the Australian Agricultural Commission to grow its merino business. A homestead was built … a school and church were added … an inn was constructed to accommodate travelers. Thus, a village was born. In 2011, the station changed hands. By this time, the sheep had been replaced by cattle … specifically Angus and Hereford.

    Instead of demolishing it, the new owners decided to restore the 19th century village which had some 30 buildings that had fallen into disrepair. Our reservation was at one of those buildings … the shearer’s quarters … converted into a number of luxurious rooms.

    After checking in at the heritage building that was once the butchery, we settled into our room and then went for a wander around the village … careful to stay away from the operating cattle station … biosecurity rules prohibit entrance. Following our meander, we enjoyed sitting on the porch where I could easily imagine the sheep shearers sitting out after a day of hard work … cooling breezes welcome in the late afternoon heat … then and today.

    Dinner was at the Glasshouse Restaurant, sitting up on the hill, with views of the Liverpool Range in every direction. The restaurant lies between two of the heritage buildings … the wool store and the shearing shed. The food was delicious … the scenery pastoral. A perfect way to wrap up our day on the road.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    An Aboriginal mural on our way to Gunnedah, NSW.
    In the park in Gunnedah, NSW.Memorial to miners who lost their lives in Gunnedah District Mines — Gunnedah, NSW.Koala mural in Gunnedah, NSW.Koala mural in Gunnedah, NSW."Rainbow Serpent" ... a water feature at the visitor center in Gunnedah, NSW.Memorial honoring Cumbo Gunerah ... who his people called the Red Kangaroo — Gunnedah, NSW.Scenes from Vietnam by Jenny McCracken, Australia's most-acclaimed pavement artist — Gunnedah, NSW.Jenny McCracken's "The Battle of Long Tan" ... on the water tower museum — Gunnedah, NSW.Memorial honoring Dorothea Mackellar, Australia's Gunnedah-born poetess.Silo art ... Dorothea Mackellar and verses from "My Country" — Gunnedah, NSW.Aboriginal Scar Trees and Totems on Pensioners Hill — Gunnedah, NSW.Red Kangaroo ... aka Red Chief ... the most famous Aboriginal before European settlement.Coal miner ... coas has been an integral part of Gunnedah since 1880 — Pensioners Hill Park.Skips used at the Blackjack Mine in the 1920s and 1930s to retrieve coal — Pensioners Hill Park.Honoring the pioneering women of the early settlers — Pensioners Hill Park in Gunnedah, NSW.Representing the mix of agricultural enterprises in the Liverpool Plains — Pensioners Hill Park.Panorama of Gunnedah from the lookout at Pensioners Hill Park."Wedge-tailed Eagle" by A. Whitehead soars over Gunnedah — Pensioners Hill Park.

    OTR: Day 2 … Gunnedah

    March 15, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    The loose plan for today was to drive north from Goonoo Goonoo Station where we overnighted to the university town of Armidale … via Tamworth … the country music capital of Australia. We still got to Armidale, but we drove in a circle first.

    After breakfast at the Glasshouse, we got on the New England Highway to continue north. But instead of going into Tamworth, we hung a left at the intersection and went to Gunnedah instead.

    Gunnedah is a small town in what is considered the bread bowl of Australia. It is also cattle country. And coal mining, too. The brochure we had picked up described it as a “… land of plenty, of foreboding power and striking beauty, of deep chocolate soils and wispy plains of grass. Of quiet bush and deep blue lines of hills, of brilliant sunshine and soft dusk, of bustling progress and eerie vastness.”

    Gunnedah, we read, was a microcosm of the Australian way of life. It is a small speck in poetess Dorothea Mackellar’s “Sunburnt Country” … in the poem “My Country” … Australia’s unofficial anthem, memorized by all adults and children … not unlike the USA’s “America the Beautiful.”

    Arriving in the surprisingly bustling town, we stopped at the visitor center for some suggestions. Our experience with volunteers working in the info centers has been mixed. Some very forthcoming with suggestions … some not so much. The woman we spoke with today — a 30-year transplant from Switzerland — was great. She pulled out brochures and maps, marked them up with glee, and sent us on our way to explore … changing our plans for today … not to mention for the rest of our days on the road.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    Silo art in Quirindi, NSW.
    Silo art in Quirindi, NSW.Silo art in Quirindi, NSW.Silo art in Quirindi, NSW.

    OTR: Day 2 … Quirindi

    March 15, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    When we first set out to go to Gunnedah instead of Tamworth, the plan was to do a 95-mile in-out detour along the same road.

    But then we spoke to the volunteer at the Gunnedah Visitor Center and we ended up jiggling our route to head south through the Liverpool Plans to Quirindi to see what she described as the “pre-eminent silo art.”

    Peter Ryan’s mural on the GrainCorp silos tells the story of Quirindi … its past, present, and future … starting with dreamtime stories of the tree goanna, and the grey and the blue kangaroos … and continuing with the history of farming, including working dogs, crops, and the railway.

    The drive to Quirindi through pastoral lands was scenic and serene … greener than we expected it to be. Unfortunately, the narrow road had no pull-outs for us to stop and take photos. Nonetheless, the silo art we found in Quirindi, which in Kamilaroi translates as “Nest in the Hills,” was most definitely worth the detour.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    The Peel River.
    One of the stations near the Peel River.The Peel River.The Peel River.The Peel River.Chaffey Dam from the overlook.

    OTR: Day 2 … Pastoral Scenery

    March 15, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    From Quirindi, we were planning on finding our way back onto New England Highway to head back north. Initially. But then, a closer study of the map gave us another idea. So, we jiggled our plans yet again … after confirming that the alternate roads were indeed paved.

    The first shortcut took us across to Wallabadah. Then a short stint on the New England Highway to the junction of the road to Nundle … from where we got on Fossicker’s Way … another rural road through pastoral scenery. This detour avoided a return to Tamworth, cutting over to the road to Armidale instead.

    The good news? We found two pull outs where we could stop for photos. The first one overlooked the Peel River. The second one overlooked Chaffey Dam.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    Our overnight accommodations ... it's been a while since the last time we stayed in a motel.
    At our request, we were given a room on the top floor ... room 18 — Armidale Pines Motel.

    OTR: Day 2 … Armidale

    March 15, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Armidale is not only a university town, it is also the de facto capital of the region.

    We had chosen it because its size pretty much guaranteed that we would find overnight accommodations. And we did. At one of the motels. A clean, spacious room with a kitchenette … and breakfast delivered to the room on request. That it was convenient to the CBD and walking distance to eateries was a bonus.

    We arrived in Armidale to a drizzle that let up long enough for us to walk to the pub at St Kilda’s Hotel … recommended by the manager at the motel for good pub grub at reasonable prices. They did not steer us wrong, though the portions were huge!

    After dinner, we walked across the street for some gelato. A mistake. Not so much because the sweet treat wasn’t good … it was fine … we’ve had better. No, the problem was that it started to rain on the way back to the motel. Where were our rain jackets? In the car! Oh well, a warm room awaited us, so we hurried back for a relaxing evening of watching TV.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    "The Artist's Mount" by J. Storrier ... at NERAM — Armidale, NSW.
    Wonders of Hinton exhibit @ NERAM — Armidale, NSW."Mosman's Bay" by T. Roberts ... at NERAM — Armidale, NSW."Old Landsdowne Bridge (Parramatta)" by H.A. Hanke ... at NERAM — Armidale, NSW."Shearing Shed" by R. Johnson ... at NERAM — Armidale, NSW."McMahon's Point" by A. Streeton ... at NERAM — Armidale, NSW."Wolfe Creek Crater Installation" by P. Drysdale ... Wynne Prize ... @ NERAM — Armidale, NSW."Antara Maku" by S. Pumani ... Wynne Prize ... @ NERAM — Armidale, NSW.Wynne Prize 2023 Finalists Exhibit ... @ NERAM — Armidale, NSW."The Voice" by M. Snape ... proposes an independent representative advisory body for First Nations."Pattern in a Landscape" by G. Hodge ... Wynne Prize ... @ NERAM — Armidale, NSW."Christmas in Katoomba" by C. McVinish ... Wynne Prize ... @ NERAM — Armidale, NSW."King of the Ghost Wallabies" by M. Clarke ... Wynne Prize ... @ NERAM — Armidale, NSW."Inma" by Z. Fielding ... Wynne Prize ... @ NERAM — Armidale, NSW."When the Fire Came My Loss Was Total (Australian Bushfires from Space)" by G. Alexander."Women's Story" by B. Campbell ... Wynne Prize ... @ NERAM — Armidale, NSW."A Very Dutch Ghost" by L. Pratt ... Wynne Prize ... @ NERAM — Armidale, NSW."Kapi Tjukula" by Y. Heffernan ... Wynne Prize ... @ NERAM — Armidale, NSW."Mankind" by B. Flugelman @ NERAM — Armidale, NSW.

    OTR: Day 3 … NERAM in Armidale

    March 16, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    When we checked into the Armidale Pines yesterday, we placed our breakfast order as well. This turned out to be a smart move. Not only was the food tasty and plentiful — and delivered to our room — but we avoided having to go out in the rain to find a bakery or café.

    We had two places we wanted to visit in Armidale before getting on the road.

    One was the Saumarez Homestead, which was built between 1888-1906 on one of the first sheep stations in the area. As luck would have it, the place is closed temporarily … no explanation.

    That left us with NERAM — the New England Regional Art Museum.

    The museum is home to the Howard Hinton Collection … Australian artwork from the period between 1880 and 1940. Hinton, a British-born shipping merchant, had a great appreciation for art and artists … an appreciation that he generously shared with others rather than amass a treasure trove of art for himself.

    The free exhibit at NERAM rotates art from the 1,000+ pieces that Hinton donated to the Armidale Teachers’ College.

    After wandering through the current rotation from the Hinton Collection, we paid the admission to enter the exhibit in the adjacent room … works by the finalists of the 2023 Wynne Prize … the oldest prize given out since 1897 by the Art Gallery of New South Wales. The goal of the prize is to raise “… questions about how human intervention is changing the natural world. …”    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    Ebor Falls in Guy Fawkes River National Park, NSW.
    Ebor Falls in Guy Fawkes River National Park, NSW.Ebor Falls ... Waterfall Way, NSW.1Ebor Falls in Guy Fawkes River National Park, NSW.Ebor Falls in Guy Fawkes River National Park, NSW.Valley view from Ebor Falls in Guy Fawkes River National Park, NSW.Wollomombi Gorge in Oxley Wild Rivers National Park, NSW.Wollomombi Gorge & Falls in Oxley Wild Rivers National Park, NSW.Cathedral Rock National Park, NSW.Sherrard Waterfall ... just off the road in the rainforest ... Dorrigo National Park, NSW.Saw lots of koala crossing signs ... no koalas unfortunately.

    OTR: Day 3 … Waterfall Way

    March 16, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    When we set out on our drive from Sydney on the 11th, the plan was to stay inland all the way up to Toowomba before turning east to Brisbane.

    Well, after talking with the volunteer at the Gunnedah Visitor Center yesterday, we decided to jiggle our loosely-planned itinerary and turn east from Armidale towards the coast. Why? So that we could drive the Waterfall Way.

    This route, which connects Armidale to Coffs Harbour, is 115 miles long. Along the scenic drive, are five national parks. The road winds through a lush rainforest, open woodlands, and farmlands. Unfortunately, nowhere to pull off and enjoy the roadside scenery. Indeed, to see the waterfalls one must at times detour into the national parks. We did that when the driving distances were reasonable.

    Our first stop was at the Wollomombi Gorge. The waterfall here is said to have the highest drop in New South Wales. This was a horsetail waterfall … unfortunately less impressive than it probably is after the wet.

    Our next stop was at Cathedral Rock National Park … a 9-mile in/out drive on a very narrow dirt road. Turns out that to see Cathedral Rock one must do some tricky bush walking on a trail rated extreme. Should have paid more attention to the map near the entrance to the park as this detour off the road turned out to be a mistake for us.

    Our next stop — Ebor Falls — more than made up for our disappointing stop at Cathedral Rock. Located in the Guy Fawkes River National Park, the falls consist of two cataracts over which the river plunges some 325 feet. Quite majestic and picturesque … deserving of the name by which the Gumbaynggirr people traditionally know the falls … Martian … which means “the great falls.”

    The drive was most definitely a worthy change to our original plans for being on the road.    Read more

  • Adventuring Down Under
    Room 11 at the Heritage River Motor Inn — Grafton, NSW.

    OTR: Day 3 … Grafton

    March 16, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    The Waterfall Way’s coastal end is at Coffs Harbour.

    When we jiggled our plans, we considered staying in Coffs Harbour two nights and then continue north to Brisbane. It took just a couple of minutes of driving in the city to change our minds. It was crowded … traffic was a mess. And accommodations were in short supply. It didn’t help matters that it was Saturday.

    Scrapping Coffs Harbour, we decided to head north a bit for a more inland town — Grafton. Being a good-sized town it held the promise of a choice of accommodations. After checking out reviews, we settled on the Heritage River Motor Inn … a second-floor room with not one but two balconies … except that it was too cold to sit outside.

    After settling into our room, we drove into the CBD to find a bite to eat. The pub at the Clocktower Hotel served well for that purpose … Mui especially liked the lamb rump stew that he ordered.

    We’ve got one more day on the road. Where will that day take us? Your guess is as good as ours.    Read more

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