• Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun

EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022

Footprints for the Oceania TransAtlantic Crossing ... from Miami to Athens … with three weeks added in Turkey to visit family. Læs mere
  • Wynwood Walls

    21. marts 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    We didn’t quite get to or beat yesterday’s 9,000+ steps today, but we came close to 8,000. A fairly active day I would say.

    Longtime readers of my various writings know that I love to photograph murals. So, when I heard about the Wynwood Walls in Miami, I knew we had to check them out. The idea behind the walls was revitalize the neighborhood by the same name. It’s described as a graffiti and street art open air museum. Since its inception, the program has “seen hundreds of artists representing many countries and has covered over 80,000 square feet of walls.”

    The murals decorate the walls of houses, businesses, parking lots, and an assortment of other walls. Some have remained in great shape … others have been vandalized. Some are easy to get to … others are behind fences. There’s a “paid” section known as the Wynwood Walls Garden … and tours are also offered utilizing golf carts.

    Unsure of our timing, I had not pre-purchased tickets, so we opted to just drive around the Wynwood neighborhood to enjoy all the vibrant color that was impossible to miss … and hard to resist. Needless to say, there was a lot of “Mui, stop! I need to take a photo,” exclamations issuing forth from my side of the vehicle.
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  • Tacos in Miami Beach

    21. marts 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    After leaving Wynwood, we struggled a bit with what to do. We wanted to get to the waterfront … have some seafood for lunch. We managed the first by going to Miami Beach, but the seafood lunch didn’t happen. The only place even close to the water — but still with no water views — was Taquiza, a taco place. The reviews were good, so we decided to check it out for ourselves. We can now enthusiastically add our “two thumbs up” for this most casual eatery.

    After our simple but delicious meal, we went for a stroll along the pedestrian way … stepping out on the beach a few times along the way. The wind was blowing strong … which didn’t seem to faze the beach goers at all. And, of course, the windsurfers were loving the conditions. But I refused to take a selfie with my hair flying every which way. After all, I figure one “bad hair” photo is more than enough for any footprint 😃😉
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  • We’re NEGATIVE!

    21. marts 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Being negative in the COVID-19 world is a good thing!

    When we got back to the residence from Miami Beach, we stopped to get ourselves a gelato … to fortify us for the upcoming antigen test we’d be doing. Sorry, no photo of our treat … the wind was melting the gelato faster than we could eat it … no time to dally!

    Since Oceania requires a COVID-19 test 48-hours prior to embarkation, and Bermuda now accepts the same, we settled on doing the proctored Antigen test offered by e-Med. It took a few tries to work out the technical kinks, but once we got past the glitches, the testing itself was a breeze. The proctor carefully walked us through the steps from opening the box, to tickling our nasal cavities, to securing and sealing the sample … watching us via the video link all through the process.

    The 15-minute wait for the test to “cure” seemed interminable. But eventually that too passed and within minutes of the proctor visually confirming our “negative” status — as denoted by a single pink line in the control window — we had both a pdf file via email and a pass in the NAVICA app to prove to anyone who asks that we are COVID-free.

    Next step was to upload the test results and our proof of vaccination on to the Bermuda Travel Authorization site and pay the $40pp fee. Now we wait for the QR code to be sent to us … essential to embarking Insignia on Wednesday.

    Oh the stress of the wait!

    P.S. It’s now 11:30p and the music playing in the atrium bar has been turned down … with only a bit of prompting from me. In Miami, I guess an 11:00p “quiet hours start” actually means midnight!!!
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  • Easy Day in Miami

    22. marts 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 75 °F

    Easy doesn’t mean that we sat around doing nothing today. In fact, we were the most active we’ve been since arriving in Miami … 12,250-steps active in fact.

    We started out by driving out to MIA to return the rental car to Dollar. Then, we walked over to the MIA Intermodal Center to hop on the orange line metro rail train to the Government Center Station. Here, we made our way to the “free” Metromover, which is part of the Miami public transportation system. It’s a great service. The Brickell Line brought us back to the Brickell Arch where we are staying … right across the road from the station.

    Next up, a stroll over to Truluck’s for a seafood lunch. The place isn’t on the water, but at least there was a section outdoors where we were able to enjoy a delicious al fresco lunch … despite the wind blowing strong once again. Our meal included salt & pepper calamari; a crab cake sandwich (for me); and stone crab claws and cauliflower mash (for Mui). We wrapped up by sharing a key lime pie that was so oversized that we asked the waiter to just box up half of it and bring the other half to the table.

    Thus sated, we continued our stroll into downtown Miami, circling along the waterfront near the Intercontinental Hotel to enjoy the port views where we hope to see Insignia docked tomorrow. We made it as far as Bayside Market, which was chock-a-block with people of all ages. Best to get out of the crowd and head back to the daytime peace and quiet of the apartment.

    Since we have a busy morning planned before we embark Insignia tomorrow, we used our afternoon to repack our bags … and just relax a bit. Wish I could say that we’ll get to bed early for a good night’s rest, but the music is still blaring in the restaurant … for all of seven customers! I guess the bartender is hoping the loud music will lure in some stragglers. Just one more night of gritting our teeth and bearing this very-noisy-at-night place.
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  • Beyond Monet

    23. marts 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    “Everyone discusses my art and pretends to understand, as if it were necessary to understand, when it is simply necessary to love.” ~~~ Claude Monet

    I’ve never been as happy to check out of our accommodations as I was this morning. And not because today was our day to embark Insignia for our cruise. We’re excited about that of course, but I am even happier that we won’t have to endure the noise coming up through the atrium for another night.

    We had tickets to see the Beyond Monet Immersive Exhibit @ the Ice Palace Studios in downtown Miami this morning. So, after leaving our bags with the valet at the Brickell Arch, we headed off on a 2.6-mile walk to the exhibit venue. It was a decent walk along Miami Avenue … alas, a lot of street people lying about … shops all shuttered. Very sad to see. We got caught in a brief rain shower just as we were approaching the venue, but luckily there was a doorway where we could wait out the liquid sunshine without getting soaked.

    This is our third immersive art exhibit. The first one featured the works of Klimt … we saw it in Malaga, Spain. The second one featured the works of Van Gogh … we saw it in Denver, Colorado. And now this one in Miami … featuring the works of Monet. The first two were truly wonderful. This one, for whatever reason, fell a bit flat for us. I’m not saying we didn’t enjoy it. We did. It was just not as good as the first two exhibits.
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  • Welcome Aboard Insignia

    23. marts 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    We embarked Insignia shortly before noon.

    Would have made it to the ship earlier, but the GPS directed our Uber driver to a different terminal. We had to go around a couple of times, because we speak very little Spanish and couldn’t make our driver, who spoke very little English, understand that he needed to follow the signs to Terminal J. Finally, I used my Google Maps to get directions and we handed him the phone so he could follow them. Whew!

    After turning over our bags, we were directed to a tent-like building for the COVID-19 formalities. We filled out health questionnaires, and showed our negative Antigen test results and our proof of vaccination cards. In return, we each got a red wristband and a red “O sticker” was placed on our sleeve. “That will tell the agents in the terminal that you are COVID-19 free,” we were told. It was all easy peasy … no waiting. We were in and out in about 5 minutes.

    There were no other passengers in the terminal, so we breezed through the check-in process and were on our way to the gangway in minutes.

    Once we were on the ship, the next stop was to have our ship’s cards scanned. A young woman did so and pointed out our muster station — B6 in the dining room. She asked if we wanted to be escorted there to check it out. Having gone through ~14 muster drills in that very spot on RTW2017, we politely declined and continued up to our cabin instead. With so few passengers embarking the world cruise in progress, our accommodations were waiting for us … no waiting around for an announcement to access our cabin.

    Lunch was a quick bite at the Terrace Café. None of the usual hectic pace associated with the embarkation lunch and we had no trouble finding a table on the aft deck to enjoy our meal.

    Our afternoon thus far has been a relaxing one. When we returned to the cabin after lunch, we turned on the TV, but before we could watch anything, we had to watch the safety briefing video. No worries … better to do the muster drill this way instead of congregating as a crowd.

    Our bags have been delivered and Mui and I are taking turns to unpack. Komang, our cabin attendant, has stopped by to welcome us and ask what he can do to make our time on the ship even more pleasant.

    In fact, everyone has been most welcoming, smiling faces all around. We have yet to see a familiar face amongst the crew members. That said, some of the senior staff are familiar to us. Captain Brajcic was at the helm of Insignia on RTW2017 … and Leslie Jon was the Cruise Director for portions of that voyage. We also know Claudio Melli, the General Manager, but from a different cruise.

    OK … my turn to unpack. So I will stop here and post this footprint.

    More to come as the cruise unfolds.
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  • No Bermuda for Us

    23. marts 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    We haven’t even left Miami yet and already we have another change to our itinerary. One that does not come as a surprise to me. Why? Read on.

    The woman who did our COVID-19 check-in earlier today did not ask us about our Bermuda Travel Authorization. Bermuda requires that everyone on the ship have a TA, so I would have expected that the O staff would have checked to make sure we have ours. That oversight made me suspect that Bermuda might no longer be on the itinerary for us.

    The cancelation of Bermuda was confirmed minutes ago by Leslie, our Cruise Director. The stated reason is the weather. That sort of makes sense. The storms that have been moving across the US and out to the Atlantic may well be making conditions rough out there. We had such conditions returning from Bermuda on our first cruise there in 2001 … wouldn’t want to have to deal with a sailing like that again.

    Anyways, regardless of the reason, instead of having a sea day tomorrow we will be going to Great Stirrup Cay, NCL’s private island … part of the Bahamas. This call, I expect, serves to not only give us an alternative port, but also gives the storm a chance to get ahead of us. I imagine the 26th, when we were scheduled to call on Bermuda, will now be a day at sea. A letter will be delivered to our cabin tonight with all the details.

    What about the $40pp we paid for the Bermuda TA? Passengers on Marina, another Oceania ship that departed Miami on Saturday, were given shipboard credit in lieu of the expense. I imagine we will be receiving something similar.
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  • Beach Day in the Bahamas

    24. marts 2022, Bahamas ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    I'm writing this from where I am sitting on the beach at Great Stirrup Cay.

    What a delight it was to have a quiet evening as opposed to the hullabaloo we had to endure every night at the Brickell Arch residence pre-cruise in Miami. Not that we got to bed early last night. But this time staying up was by choice instead of out of necessity. No need to caution anyone about loud music either.

    Anyway, a good night’s rest, and we were up at 7:00a this morning … a little later than usual. A quick visit to the gym to do our stretches. Followed by a light breakfast on the aft deck at the Terrace Café. Then, it was time to get ready for our beach break.

    Cruise lines lease small islands from the Bahamas to create a private oasis for their guests. Great Stirrup Cay, in the Berry Islands of the Bahamas, is just such an island and is open to the three cruise lines owned by NCLH. There are facilities available … food, snorkel rentals, zip lines, kayaks, and such. But most are closed today. No matter … we don’t need any of that to have a good day on the beach.

    With Insignia anchored off the island, we were transported ashore by small ferry boats operated by the locals. By 10:00a, Mui and I were walking amongst palm trees fluttering in the wind. Our timing was excellent as we managed to get one of the few shade palapas that are set around the beach. At that hour, there were maybe 20-25 people ashore … a perfect time to wander around and take photos. There are more people on the beach now, but with Insignia at less than 50% capacity for this cruise, neither the island nor the beach is crowded.

    As you can see from the satellite map I’ve attached, there are a number of coves with white-sand beaches. I would like to have gone for a wander to check them out. However, we were not expecting this beach break so I was unprepared to wander in the sun … no need to court a sunburn. Instead, I settled myself under the palapa to enjoy some quiet time for a while.

    Mui’s been in and out of the water a couple of times. The beautiful hues of the ocean, ranging from the palest blue to aqua, to deep navy are inviting. Alas, being unprepared for sand & surf fun, I’m going to have to settle for a short walk along the edge of the water. At least I can get my feet wet … which is what I am off to do now! Maybe I’ll try out the swing set in the shallows, too.
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  • Our Itinerary … As of Now

    24. marts 2022, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    When I wrote the footprint yesterday announcing the replacement of Bermuda with the Bahamas, I wasn’t aware that there was another change. I’m guessing that the world cruisers who have been on the ship since the beginning of the voyage already knew about it. Hence, Leslie, our Cruise Director, did not mention it in yesterday’s announcement.

    In any event, looks like Ponta Delgada in the Azores has also been replaced. Instead we’ll be going to Funchal in the Madeira Islands. This is a port we’ve been to a couple of times before. In fact, it is a popular stop on TransAtlantic crossings. I’ll delve into some old research material and we’ll figure out what to do before we get there.

    Despite all these changes, we have the same number of days at sea to get across the Atlantic — seven. They’ve just been jumbled so that we now have seven days straight at sea. No problem … we’ve done this many times before and will entertain ourselves so that the days fly by as they always seem to do.
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  • TransAtlantic Crossing Day 1

    25. marts 2022, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    I should probably title this footprint as Day 1.5 of the crossing since we left Great Stirrup Cay at 3:00p yesterday. But why complicate matters. Day 1 it shall be.

    We love days at sea. They seem to go by way too fast, however. Today was no exception.

    I’m not going to go into all the routine stuff in these crossing footprints … breakfast, relax, lunch, relax, dinner and a show, bedtime. Just assume that those activities are part of each day of the crossing. You can also assume that as long as the weather cooperates, all relaxing is done on the veranda.

    So, what will I write about? Things we do that are outside our routine. If we didn’t do anything different? Well, that footprint will be rather short now, won’t it?

    Today was a day of pampering. We both had massage appointments to start off the day. 75 minutes of deep tissue bliss. Afterward, I remained in the spa for a mani/pedi since my appointment for these grooming necessities went by the wayside when we left Colorado Springs three days ahead of schedule.

    Dinner was very much a special event. Cella, the Oceania Club Ambassador, wined and dined us at Toscana, one of the two specialty restaurants on Insignia. We met Cella in 2018 … on a Mediterranean Cruise aboard Riviera. She was also the Club Ambassador in 2019 when we did a rather lengthy cruise on Nautica that took in the Baltics, Norway, Northern Russia, Greenland, Iceland, and more.

    Joining us for dinner were Joy and Ed, who are on the ship for the full world cruise. We had a delightful evening. The food was delicious … as it always is in Toscana. The conversation did not have any uncomfortable lulls. And in the “small world” category, turns out that Mui and Joy were both at the Homeland Security Department at the same time, but never met … until dinner tonight.

    We wrapped up our day with a surprise bottle of wine sent to the cabin by Julio, the Executive Concierge on Insignia. We met him on a previous cruise as well and enjoyed his company. We stopped by to bid him good day earlier in the day and he reciprocated with the wine.

    Speaking of the wine, we’ve now got five bottles to finish before we get off the ship … three bottles of bubbly; two bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon. All courtesy of someone at Oceania. We usually receive a bottle or two, but five is a record. Methinks we have some drinking to do in the days ahead.
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  • TransAtlantic Crossing Day 2

    26. marts 2022, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    I did say in yesterday’s footprint that if we didn’t do anything outside our usual routine that the footprint would be short.

    Well, that’s the case today … the day that we should have been in Bermuda. Instead, like yesterday, Insignia has been dancing her way across the ocean in 10-12 foot swells. We’ve seen worse conditions on previous cruises. Nonetheless, it’s nice to validate that being away from an oceangoing vessel of any kind or size for two years has not adversely impacted our sea legs.

    (Why post at all, you might ask. Each footprint makes up the whole of my travel journal, so a tidbit is warranted regardless of how interesting or dull it might be.)
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  • TransAtlantic Crossing Day 3

    27. marts 2022, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Insignia continues to dance across the Atlantic. Instead of the 10-12 foot swells of the past two days, however, we only had 8-foot swells today. Or so the Navigation Channel on the TV tells me. Plenty of sunshine … and comfy temps in the low-70F range during the daytime. It does get a bit chilly outside after night fall. Still, warmer than I was expecting for this crossing, so no complaints.

    Today’s “change of pace” sea-day activities were at one time part of our routine.

    First up, a couple of lectures … part of what Oceania describes as “OLife Enrichment.” We used to go to all such presentations, but over the years have changed this habit. Now we go only if the topic is of interest to us. Jennifer Eremeeva’s lecture today fell into that category.

    The topic was the Ottoman Empire. Having grown up in Turkey, the modern-day country that was born out of the dwindling empire, we’ve been steeped in this history. For Mui, the history is even more personal as his grandfather was an officer in the Ottoman Army and, as an engineer, he later designed and was instrumental in the building of the railroad from Mecca to Hicaz. Jennifer did a very credible job of squeezing 600 years of history into 45 minutes.

    I had planned to catch Jennifer’s presentation on the Byzantine Empire yesterday, but completely spaced it out. I was able to catch the re-run on the in-room entertainment system now that the series has been loaded up. I’ll probably watch the rest of her lectures on TV. That way, I won’t have to mask up as Mui and I continue to do when we are in enclosed places with a large number of people.

    Next up, we went to Horizons on deck 10 forward for afternoon tea at 4:00p. Yes, yes. This is an “eating activity,” but it’s not part of our routine, so it’s OK to write about it ;-) I’ll admit it … we used to go to this “sea day afternoon event” on a regular basis. But we are trying to be better at attending as a “treat” now. We did skip dinner, so we’re still good IMHO. At least that’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

    The tea time treats were tasty as expected … even if the catering cart that comes around to each table is now entirely encased in Plexiglas. Not surprising during a pandemic, even if we are in a COVID-free bubble here on the ship. Nor was it surprising that we had live music. What was surprising, however, was the lack of attendance. In the old days — the days before the cruise lines were forced to take a COVID-break — you couldn’t find a table at tea time unless you arrived before or right at 4:00p. It was sad to see just 10-15 tables occupied by couples today … but good for social distancing, of course.

    Tonight we lose the second of the many hours we will be giving up on this eastbound crossing.
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  • TransAtlantic Crossing Day 4

    28. marts 2022, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    A quiet day with nothing exciting to write about.

    For some, a day like ours might seem boring. But we tend to be so busy when we are at home that we savor these days at sea. Even doing very little, the hours fly by and before we know it another day is drawing to a close.

    I wasn’t going to post a footprint today, but then I remembered that I had promised one of the readers of this blog that I would upload photos showing a sampling of activities one might find onboard Insignia on a sea day. Bear in mind that there might be additional activities available to passengers doing the full world cruise, such as the luncheon that was held today.

    By the way, tonight we lost the third of the many hours we are giving up on this eastbound TransAtlantic.
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  • TransAtlantic Crossing Day 5

    29. marts 2022, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Another day flies by with not much change to our routine. Relaxing just about covers it.

    What did change today was the sea and air conditions. The seas calmed down … plenty of dead rollers, but none of the whitecaps we’ve been seeing since departing the Bahamas. We had plenty of sunshine, as we’ve been having since Miami, but the temperature took a turn towards the cooler side of “nature’s thermostat.” Not freezing cold my any means, but a light jacket or windbreak definitely came in handy in the morning, and later in the day, I was amongst those seeking sun instead of shade.

    No veranda time for me today. We don’t get the sun at all on our port side veranda. With the slight chill in the air, it was a little on the “too cool” side to sit out there. Instead, I went up to the pool deck to work on my embroidery for a while. I guess this too counts as a change from the norm.

    Lunch for us was in Toscana today … another change from the norm since this specialty dining room is not open at lunchtime except for special events. In this case, the special event was a luncheon being held in the main dining room for the world cruise passengers. So, Toscana was offered as an alternative to the non-invitees. Great food … except for dessert. The profiterole was very dry. I’d say this is a one off for this venue as the desserts are usually very good. No matter, we found ourselves a tasty treat at the Terrace Café instead.

    With 990 NM to go to Funchal, tonight we wrapped up our day with a colorful sunset.

    And tonight, we lose the fourth of the many hours we’re giving up on this cruise to travel from the USA to Greece.
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  • TransAtlantic Crossing Day 6

    30. marts 2022, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    As of 9:30p, we have 550 NM left to go before we arrive in Funchal, Madeira on 1 April. In the meantime, we continue to enjoy our time at sea doing as much as we want … or as little as we want from the selection of activities listed in the daily program.

    Tonight, we broke with our routine of dining alone at a two-top to have dinner with friends from the 2017 world cruise, which we did on this very same ship. While we’re on for just one short segment, Pam and Ray are on for the entire 180 days. We had a delightful dinner … no shortage of conversation as we got caught up on this and that and everything under the sun ;-)
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  • TransAtlantic Crossing Day 7

    31. marts 2022, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Only 226.6 NM miles left before we step foot on land again. But to do that, we will have to wait until 11:00a tomorrow morning, when we are slated to complete the crossing with our arrival in Funchal.

    We had another quiet day at sea. The ocean … the calmest we’ve seen it on this crossing. The air … the most still we’ve seen it on this crossing. As for us … probably the laziest we’ve been on this crossing. Sure, we did our stretches and walks on the jogging trail. But that was about it. What can I say? We’re saving our energy for all the walking we hope to do in Funchal tomorrow.
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  • More Itinerary Changes

    1. april 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Even as we were on approach to Funchal in the Portuguese archipelago of Madeira, Leslie, our Cruise Director, was announcing that we will not be calling on either Gibraltar, UK or Melilla, Spain.

    The stated reason … storms are going to make for some rough conditions. I heard 18-foot seas can be expected going through the Strait of Gibraltar, which is like a funnel between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. Mui and I have been in 40-foot seas in a 50-passenger ship, so I expect that we’ll be fine. Nonetheless, we’ll get our hands on seasickness pills to be on the safe side.

    The replacement port will be Cagliari, Sardinia … three days hence … on 5 April. Details are pending delivery of info to the cabin. We were there in 2015, so I’ll need to find something new for us to do.

    In the meantime, Insignia has been cleared early, so we’re off to explore Funchal today.
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  • Funchal: On Foot

    1. april 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Funchal, the capital city of the Portuguese Archipelago of Madeira, is located on the island from which the name of the archipelago is derived.

    The name of the city comes from the Portuguese word funcho … aka fennel. The suffix of “al” means “a plantation of.” Put it all together and you have Funchal = Plantation of Fennel … a reference to the wild fennel early explorers found growing prodigiously on the island.

    Upon hearing the word Madeira, the first thing most people associate it with is the wine by the same name. Likened by many to port, the wine is one that is known to be able to withstand a lot of jiggling on rough seas … and warm temperatures. Both of which are things from which wine should be protected. Mui and I tasted Madeira wine on our first visit to Funchal. We both agreed then that we didn’t care for it … so we skipped wine tasting opportunities as we explored Funchal today.

    On that first visit in 2003, we hired a private driver who took us to Cabo Girāo, the second highest sea cliff in the world, and some of the smaller towns outside the city … including to the spot from which Winston Churchill is said to have painted many-a-seascape … puffing on his cigar, of course.

    Our second visit to Funchal was in 2015. On that occasion, we took the tram up to the Monte Palace Gardens and the Funchal Botanical Garden … what lovely places. I especially enjoyed the tiled murals along the garden path that gave us glimpses into the early history of the island. No, we did not ride the basket sledge back down the mountain, leaving that to those who like adrenaline-inducing activities.

    Since we did not explore Funchal, the city, on either of our previous visits. That is what we did today.

    The ship was cleared early … well before our scheduled arrival time. Thus the complimentary shuttle was not yet running. No matter, we’d walked into town in 2015 from the very same berth … the one furthest to the city. So, we set out on foot … much to the amazement of fellow passengers who were calling out from their verandas to tell us the buses weren’t ready yet!

    A slow and easy pace got us into the city around 11:00a … at least that’s what the time stamp says on the selfie we took at the Madeira sign.

    From the waterfront, we moved inland, following narrow cobblestone streets … frequently decorated with mosaic-style designs under our feet. We had no paper map to guide us … Google maps got the job done and helped us find everything we had on our loose-itinerary of places of interest … including a shop in an off-the-beaten-path neighborhood where we sated our craving for pasteis de nata, a tasty custard-filled pastry that is a Portuguese delicacy.

    Colorful street art … colorful flowers, fruits, veggies, and fish at the market … colorful characters followed. The Sé, locked up tight on previous occasions, was open today … to honor the 100th anniversary of the passing of the Austro Hungarian Emperor Charles (the 1st of Austria and the 4th of Hungary) who was exiled to Madeira following WWI. Packed to the gills in the morning, it was quiet and we were able to stop for a quick look see on our way back to the ship.

    We fit a lot into our day in Funchal. And I took a lot of photos, so I will split the day into multiple footprints. This first one has a collection of photos from this and that and there.
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  • Funchal: Arte de Portas Abertas

    1. april 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    This is Part II of the footprints describing what we did in Funchal today. Don’t worry, there will be fewer words since I already reminisced and described our day in the previous footprint.

    While I was researching what to do in Funchal, I came across several recommendations to check out the Arte de Portas Abertas in the city’s Zona Velha (aka Old Town). The article went on to describe the street art on Rua de Santa Maria as murals … most painted on doors. Did someone say murals? Got to go in search of them for sure.

    Apparently this project, which translates as the Art of the Open Doors, was the brainchild of a group of local artists. The side benefit of the project? It helped to revitalize a rundown section of the city. Indeed, visitors are now attracted to the street that is now lined with shops and restaurants … more of the latter than the former. Alas, tables and chairs at times blocked a clear view of the murals … but in those cases, I focused on a detail shot instead of the full door.

    A fun and colorful stroll!
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  • Funchal: Jesuit College

    1. april 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    From Rua da Santa Maria, my research led us to the Funchal College of Jesuits. The article I had read described the building as worth visiting … and promised sculptures and paintings. Plus, it said that we could climb the tower — €1pp — to check out the views.

    If there was a public entrance to the college building, it wasn’t apparent. But we were able to get to the tower by going in through Igreja Do Colegio [College Church] dedicated to St John the Evangelist. Apparently, construction of this Jesuit church was started in 1629 and finished in the first half of the 18th century. The nave is flanked by lateral chapels, the ceiling is painted in trompe-l’oeil, and the walls are decorated with frescoes. I found some beautiful azulejo tiles in some of the chapels … happy camper.

    We found the desk where an attendant was selling the €1pp tickets. Unlike most church towers, this one isn’t particularly tall … 80 steps took us up to the viewing terrace from where we enjoyed the expansive views in all directions.

    This stop turned out to be a little gem … especially since there were very few people visiting … obviously the Jesuit College is not on the must-visit list of most visitors to Funchal.
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  • Funchal: Parque de Santa Catarina

    1. april 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    This lovely park, which overlooks the Bay of Funchal from its hillside perch, covers some 36,000 m2. Alas, we didn’t have time to explore all of it today. No time, certainly, to check out the aviaries, and we only saw two of the sculptures dotted around the park.

    Contrary to the article I had read, however, the Santa Catarina Chapel, which resembles a cottage more than it does a place of worship, was open. As there were people in prayer inside, I was satisfied with just a quick look-see from the door.

    Our stroll did take us to the small pond where fountains were gushing. Swans were a-swimmin’ as well … until a soccer ball landed in the water and they decided it was safer to hide amongst the bushes when the young kids began throwing stones in the pond in their attempts to retrieve the ball.

    Not a quiet park on this spring afternoon … plenty of people of all ages out to make the best of the nice day … young parents with strollers … young lovers in nooks and crannies … elderly locals resting on the benches overlooking the pond … kids playing ball. Nonetheless, our time in the park was a nice “green end” to our day amidst the narrow cobble streets of Funchal.
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  • O Adeus Funchal!

    1. april 2022, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    We have set sail from Funchal!

    Upon our return to Insignia — following a 17,564-step day exploring the city — we headed up to Horizons on deck 10 forward for a bit of tea and goodies to tide us over until dinner.

    I haven’t mentioned the shows we’ve been enjoying on the ship after dinner. Tonight’s show warrants a mention as it featured an Insignia cast member and a crew member. The show started off with Chief Engineer Ned who is from Ukraine. He is apparently a whiz on the electric guitar (his is a small, light, travel version). His mini hard rock concert was definitely a change of music style for the clientele of this ship. Next up was Gabi Gonzalez, who is one of the lead singers in the ship’s cast. Her show — first as a solo performer — was called “Gabi Goes Adele.” She did an outstanding job and her mash-up of Adele and Lady Gaga for the finale gained her a standing ovation.

    We had a wonderful day in Funchal … explored some new-to-us places … and left many more places to check out for the next time we find ourselves calling on Madeira Island. It is a popular stop for ships crossing the Atlantic Ocean, so I’m sure we’ll be back!

    We’ve been warned to expect some rock ‘n roll motion in the Strait of Gibraltar. But that is still more than 24 hours away. In the meantime, we’ll enjoy another day at sea tomorrow.

    (The photos are from our Funchal sailaway.)
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  • Not Quite thru the Strait

    2. april 2022, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    We spent a quiet day aboard Insignia, skipping our daily walk on the jogging path on deck 10 to give our feet a rest. I think they deserved it after the 17,500+ steps we walked yesterday in Funchal.

    While it’s not been smooth sailing, the motion of the ocean has not been particularly bothersome. That said, Leslie, our Cruise Director, was on the P/A system a little while ago to warn about rougher conditions ahead. The old adage — “one hand to the ship” — will be the word of the day for the next few days.

    A friend who is on Oceania’s Marina, which is two days ahead of us, mentioned in her blog that they’ve had to battle 60 knot winds and some big swells. We just might have to endure similar conditions as we go through the funnel that connects the Atlantic to the Mediterranean — the Strait of Gibraltar.

    P.S. Leslie checked with Captain Brajcic and advised us that we’ll be in the Strait around 3-5a … and will be passing the Rock of Gibraltar around 6a … weather and sea conditions permitting. Personally, I plan to be tucked into bed and fast asleep. But I’ll see if I can dig up a couple of photos from previous transits for tomorrow’s footprint.
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  • New COVID-19 Entry Requirements

    2. april 2022, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    We returned from lunch today to find a 3-page document outlining the entry requirements for the ports ahead … as they stand as of 1 April 2022.

    The good news is that Italy, Turkey, and Greece require nothing special. Guests are allowed to go ashore independently or with tours … masking required for all three countries — with Italy specifying FFP2 masks — when in public and communal places and when using public transportation … vaccination certificates may be checked when entering indoor venues such as restaurants and museums. All things we’re used to already.

    [KN95 masks, by the way, fit the bill for the FFP2 requirement; the ship has them available for those who need them.]

    Malta has similar requirements. But they threw us a slight curve ball by requiring that vaccine cards be approved through the VeriFLY app. This is for USA and Canada residents only. We handled that easily enough. Mui downloaded the app to his phone, and with a little assistance from Carlos at the purser’s desk, he set up our profiles. Luckily, I had already completed the PLF (passenger locator form) for Malta before departing Colorado Springs, so we had the QR codes handy to complete the process.

    [For those USA/Canada citizens who are having problems with the VeriFLY app and/or completing the Malta PLF, Oceania has arranged a special session tomorrow to assist them.]

    Israel, also has the usual masking, etc. But they threw us a MAJOR curve ball with the most onerous entry requirements.

    Upon arrival in Ashdod, they insist on the Israeli Health Authorities administering PCR tests to everyone. I guess they don’t trust Oceania to administer the tests on the sea day before our arrival to make things less cumbersome. Once tested, but before we get the results, they then require us to go to the terminal to pick up our passports and complete the immigration formalities. That done, we are to return to the ship to await clearance.

    Oceania has been told to expect that the whole process might take as long as 6 hours!!!! Needless to say, despite our rather lengthy port call (6:00a to 10:00p), all-day excursions to places like Jerusalem and Masada are no longer possible. Once I confirmed that Oceania had canceled their all-day ship’s tours, I canceled the private tour I had organized to Masada and the Dead Sea. I’m not sure what we will do when we call on Ashdod now … I still have time to figure that out.

    The one bit of good news in Israel’s onerous requirements is that we’ll be cleared for Haifa by the steps taken in Ashdod, so at least those plans remain intact … for now.

    (P.S. Viking Star, also doing a world cruise, has finagled its itinerary to arrive a day early in Ashdod and remain at anchor to take care of the testing by having the Israeli authorities come aboard the ship. But they are already in the area, so that is easier for them to do. For us to be able to take similar action, one of the three ports en route to Ashdod would have to be canceled. No one wants that after so many cancelations.)

    Frankly, if I had any say in the matter, I’d skip Israel entirely and head to Turkey … plenty of ports to choose from there … could also stop somewhere like Rhodes along the way. But I have no say in the matter. So, we’ll go with the flow wherever the ship takes us.
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