• Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
Jun – Jul 2019

Our Ring Around Ireland

In 2019, we realized a long-awaited road trip around parts of Ireland. Hopefully, at some point, I’ll have time to flesh out these footprints with the notes from my journal. Read more
  • South transept — Duiske Abbey ... Graiguenamanagh, Ireland.
    Stained glass tryptch in the south transept — Duiske Abbey ... Graiguenamanagh, Ireland.Panel from the tryptch window in the south transept — Duiske Abbey ... Graiguenamanagh, Ireland.Stained glass window @ Duiske Abbey — Graiguenamanagh, Ireland.Stained glass window @ Duiske Abbey — Graiguenamanagh, Ireland.

    Duiske Abbey

    June 21, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Before leaving Graiguenamanagh, we made a quick stop at Duiske Abbey.

    Serving as a Catholic parish church since 1812, this abbey was originally a Cistercian monastery that was founded in the 13th century.

    While the exterior is quite simple, the interior is quite the opposite ... due in part to the beautiful stained glass windows.
    Read more

  • Dunbrody Famine Ship

    June 21, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    “For each of them it was a one-way ticket to a new life. For the Dunbrody, Captain Williams and his crew, it was business as usual.”

    Over lunch in Graiguenamanagh, we jiggled our sightseeing plans. Instead of heading north to Borris — and back to Kilkenny from there — we went south to New Ross. Thus, we got to dip our toes into County Wexford.

    Our destination in New Ross was the Dunbrody Famine Ship & Irish Emigrant Experience. Here, visitors learn the story of one of the many so-called “coffin ships” that carried Irish emigrants fleeing the Great Famine of 1845-1851 ... aka the Great Potato Famine.

    The three-part experience gave us free time in the exhibit room to read about a disastrous period in Irish history; showed us a video in which emigrants-to-be talked about leaving their home country to seek a better life elsewhere ... predominantly, the Americas; and took us aboard the “replica” Dunbrody, where docents playing the role of emigrants told us of the hardships endured during the 6-8 week Atlantic crossing.
    Read more

  • Rock of Cashel ... the lighter colored building is Cormac's Chapel — Cashel, Ireland.
    View of the Rock of Cashel from the pedestrian path — Cashel, Ireland.Rock of Cashel: (L to R) ... castle, round tower, St Patrick's Cathedral — Cashel, Ireland.Replica of the High Cross of St Patrick (original is inside for protection) — the Rock of Cashel.Looking across the cemetery to the Golden Vale (Tipperary Plain) — Rock of Cashel, Ireland.Choir at Cormack's Chapel — Rock of Cashel, Ireland.Fragment of a fresco in the choir of Cormac's Chapel — Rock of Cashel, Ireland.12th century Urnes style Scandinavian sarcophagus of Cormac's brother — Rock of Cashel, Ireland.Centaur hunting a lion ... above the north entrance to Cormac's Chapel — Rock of Cashel, Ireland.

    Rock of Cashel

    June 22, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Our first stop after leaving Kilkenny was the Rock of Cashel in County Tipperary. Our early departure from Fanad House ensured our arrival at this iconic site ahead of the crowds.

    Located in an area known as the “Golden Vale,” the site is also known as St Patrick’s Rock. Legend has it that St Patrick converted the King of Munster here.The site served as the seat of the kings of Munster from the 4th century until it was presented to the church in the 12th century.

    Our admission — covered by the OPW Heritage Card — included access to the grounds and ruins, as well as to Cormac’s Chapel, which can only be visited on an official tour. We had a grand time exploring the Rock of Cashel ... despite the wind that was blowing quite cold.
    Read more

  • Hore Abbey from the Rock of Cashel — Cashel, Ireland.
    Rock of Cashel from the path to Hore Abbey — Cashel, Ireland.I approached Hore Abbey through a cow pasture — Cashel, Ireland.Rock of Cashel from the ruins of Hore Abbey — Cashel, Ireland.Ruins of Hore Abbey from what used to be the cloister garth — Cashel, Ireland.Panorama of Hore Abbey with the Rock of Cashel (left) — Cashel, Ireland.The Rock of Cashel through a window at Hore Abbey ... this is the photo I was looking to capture.

    Hore Abbey

    June 22, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Glimpsing the ruins of Hore Abbey as we were exploring the Rock of Cashel, I was reminded that I wanted to stop there for a photo op.

    Hore Abbey, once a Benedictine place of worship, was transferred to the Cistercians in 1270. You see, the archbishop wanted to evict the Benedictines because he had dreamt that they were about to kill him.

    Asking for directions, we were discouraged from driving there due to lack of parking. Instead, we were directed to a path that runs down the hill to the abbey. Since Mui was feeling poorly due to a sinus infection, I went off on my own, cutting through a meadow where sheep were grazing peacefully.

    At the bottom of the hill, I hopped over the stone wall and walked across a cow pasture — no cows ... just plenty of ‘evidence’ of them — to reach the ruins. There wasn’t much to see here, but I did get the Rock of Cashel photo I was after.
    Read more

  • Cahir Castle from the car park — Cahir, Ireland.
    One of the six towers built into the curtain wall — Cahir Castle ... Cahir, Ireland.The castle was built to guard the crossing @ the River Suir — Cahir Castle ... Cahir, Ireland.Entering the castle through the portcullis — Cahir Castle ... Cahir, Ireland.The banqueting hall is in the tower house — Cahir Castle ... Cahir, Ireland.Banqueting Hall — Cahir Castle ... Cahir, Ireland.St Paul's Church and the River Suir from the banqueting hall — Cahir Castle ... Cahir, Ireland.Narrow spiral staircases were a defense against enemies — Cahir Castle ... Cahir, Ireland.Cahir Castle & the River Suir ... from the path to Inch Field — Cahir, Ireland.The castle serves as a lovely background for the ducks on the River Suir — Cahir Castle, Ireland.

    Cahir Castle: Stone Fort of the Fish

    June 22, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Down the road about 15 minutes from the Rock of Cashel and Hore Abbey, is Cahir Castle ... in the town of Cahir.

    The 12th century castle is situated where once a 3rd century fort by the name of Cathair stood. Cathair, from which Cahir Castle’s name is derived, means “the stone fort of the fish.”

    Built along the River Suir, this well-preserved castle is a photogenic subject for the camera. Which is why I wanted to stop here. That the sun came out as we were parking the car added to our pleasure in what our eyes beheld.

    I had read that there wasn’t much to see inside. So, initially, we weren’t planning to tour the castle. But since the admission was included in our OPW Heritage Card, we figured we’d take a quick look-see before moving on with the rest of our plans for the day.

    P.S. We’ve already used up most of our initial €30/person outlay for the OPW Heritage Card. We’ve only got €7/person left before we break even. This is just day 3 of our 15-day driving trip. I think I can safely say that buying the card was a good deal.
    Read more

  • Music for dolls and puppets — Inch Field ... Cahir, Ireland.
    Sculpture of a knight styled on the Butler tomb @ Clonmell Friary — Inch Field ... Cahir, Ireland.The bonus of our foray into Inch Field ... a view of Cahir Castle — Cahir, Ireland.

    Inch Field Sculpture Trail

    June 22, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    As we walked along the River Suir to begin the trek to our next destination, we came upon a big expanse of lush green space. A nearby sign identified the area as Inch Field.

    Following the lilting sounds of a violin, we went over to check out the park where locals were taking advantage of the beautiful day ... playing ball, picnicking, or simply sitting around and chatting. As for the violin player? He was serenading a collection of dolls and puppets!

    One of the highlights of Inch Field is a trail along which one can find sculptures carved out of trees. Turns out that when some of the trees were damaged during a storm a few years ago, it was decided that they should live on in the form of carvings.

    I didn’t get many photos of the sculptures because people were sitting around the more interesting ones and I didn’t want to intrude. But there was a bonus for detouring into the park ... the best view of Cahir Castle!
    Read more

  • Are the ducks following Mui? — Path from Cahir Castle to the Swiss Cottage — Cahir, Ireland.
    Protector of the Fairy Doors? Path from Cahir Castle to the Swiss Cottage — Cahir, Ireland.Fairy Door Apartment Complex? Path from Cahir Castle to the Swiss Cottage — Cahir, Ireland.

    Fairy Doors and More

    June 22, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    There are two ways to get from Cahir Castle to the Swiss Cottage, our next destination. You can drive. Or you can walk. We chose the latter option.

    The approximately 2.5-mile R/T path is flat and easy enough to walk. It passes through a forest ... peaceful and quiet. Perfect on a warm June day.

    At the head of the trail, we came across a few sculptures carved out of tree trunks and boughs. What was most interesting, however, were the “fairy doors” we found along the way. Some were just placed at the base of trees, but in a few areas, there were entire “apartment complexes.” Apparently some of these miniature doors have a small space behind where people can leave notes or wishes for the fairies.
    Read more

  • A "we are here" selfie @ the Swiss Cottage — Cahir, Ireland.
    A mishmash of styles and tree-trunk columns make for a fairy-tale cottage — Swiss Cottage, Cahir.The small bedroom — the Swiss Cottage ...Cahir, Ireland.The main bedroom — the Swiss Cottage ...Cahir, Ireland.The music room — the Swiss Cottage ...Cahir, Ireland.Dufour Room: named for the factory where the hand-painted wallpaper was manufactured — Swiss Cottage

    A Cottage Orné in Cahir

    June 22, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    That is how the style of the Swiss Cottage in Cahir is described ... Cottage Orné (or, in English, ornamental cottage). It is an example of a building in the Regency picturesque style.

    Dating back to the early 1800s, it was at this pastoral retreat that the Butler family played at being peasants. The furnishings inside the cottage, however, are a clear indication that they had no idea what peasant life was really like.

    The only way to see the interior of the cottage is by taking an OPW tour — which was covered by our Heritage Card. Our guide was great. In addition to telling us vivid stories that brought alive what life back in the day was like, she pointed out the mis-matched elements of architecture, explaining that this was done on purpose to mimic nature ... where nothing is perfect.

    P.S. No photos allowed inside, so I purchased some postcards to scan.
    Read more

  • Mui perusing the menu @ Galileo Café — Cahir, Ireland.
    Pasta primavera and a salad with grilled chicken ... good but not great — Galileo Café, Cahir.

    Lunch Time!

    June 22, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Taking the footpath from the Swiss Cottage back into Cahir, we headed off to find a place for a late lunch before getting on the road again.

    We like to ask the locals for restaurant recommendations. Most of the time, they steer us right. This time the result was so-so ... perhaps because we were at the restaurant at an off-hour.

    It wasn’t that the food at Galileo Café was particularly bad. No. It just wasn’t as good as the meals we’ve enjoyed these past few days.
    Read more

  • Emerville House

    June 22, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    A pleasant drive from Cahir brought us to Killarney ... our next base of operations (or rather, sightseeing).

    It was drizzling when we arrived at Emerville House. We’d already alerted Christine, the proprietress of the B&B, to our arrival time. She was ready to show us to our room — #1 on what we’d call the second floor in the US.

    There’s nothing special about our room, but it will serve us just fine for the three nights that we will be in Killarney. What we really like about the B&B is its location ... in a residential neighborhood, but within a short stroll of downtown.
    Read more

  • Satisfying meal @ Mac's of Main Street — Killarney, Ireland.

    Dinner Time!

    June 22, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Normally, we would have just had snacks in our room @ Emerville House since we’d already dined out for lunch. But since neither one of us was totally satisfied with our lunch in Cahir, we made an exception tonight.

    Bundling up against the chill on a drizzly evening, we walked into town. Christine, the proprietress of the B&B, had recommended several restaurants, noting that there would be many others to check out as well. So, we did just that, strolling along Main Street and peeking into some of the side streets, too.

    In the end, we settled on Mac’s of Main Street. The place was hopping. Saturday night, after all. Nonetheless, the host was able to quickly seat us at a table near the big picture window ... perfect for people watching as we ate our dinner.

    The service was great ... and so was the food. Mui ordered the fish & chips ... switching out the chips for veggies. I ordered Mac’s traditional cottage pie ... really yummy! We washed it all down with a bottle of Killarney Golden Spear ... a blond ale.

    A slow stroll back to the B&B after dinner was a great way to end a very successful day of sightseeing.
    Read more

  • Day 5: Exploring Killarney National Park

    June 23, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    The rain we woke up to continued on and off for most of the day. Dreary, cool, and overcast ... good words to describe conditions. Hence, no hiking in Killarney National Park as we had initially planned to do. Instead, from our base @ Emerville House, we explored some of the sites within the park.Read more

  • A "we are here" selfie @ Ross Castle — Killarney National Park, Ireland.
    Boats for rent for a spin around Lough Leane — Ross Castle ... Killarney NP, Ireland.Ross Castle & Lough Leane — Killarney NP, Ireland.One of the two towers that survived the years — Ross Castle ... Killarney NP, Ireland.From the 14th through the 17th centuries — Ross Castle Exhibit Hall ... Killarney NP, Ireland.Model of the tower house — Ross Castle Exhibit Hall ... Killarney NP, Ireland.Banqueting hall (on the top floor) was the safest place in the tower house — Ross Castle, Ireland.Banqueting Hall @ Ross Castle — Killarney NP, Ireland.Main Bedroom @ Ross Castle — Killarney NP, Ireland.Horse carriages can be rented to explore Killarney NP — Ross Castle, Ireland.

    Killarney NP: Ross Castle

    June 23, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    We woke up to a cool, rainy day. Had we been at home, we probably would have cozied up to the fireplace with a hot beverage and a book. But since we are on a road trip in Ireland, off we went to do a bit of sightseeing in Killarney National Park.

    This park is the first national park in Ireland. It was created when the Muckross Estate was donated to the Irish Free State in 1932. Having been added to since then, the park covers a wide expanse of green space with trails and interesting sites. Since the rain put paid to our hiking plans, we focused on the sites instead.

    First up — Ross Castle. We could have walked there from Emerville House, but the clouds were threatening continued rain, and Mui was still feeling poorly, so we drove over to the castle. Our timing was good. A coach tour was leaving as we arrived. No big crowds ... just some independents like us wandering around the grounds.

    Situated on land overlooking Lough Leane, one of the lakes within the park boundaries, Ross Castle begs for blue skies and sunshine as a backdrop. Instead, the overcast and drizzly conditions showed us the “moody” side of the castle.

    One can only visit the interior on a 45-minute tour. Had the weather been cooperating with our plans, we would have skipped the tour as there’s not much to see inside ... and no photography is allowed. Being indoor for a bit of respite from the rain and cold sounded good. The tour was included with our Heritage Card anyway. We had a great guide, who brought life back in the day alive with the stories he told us. In the end, we were happy to have taken the tour.

    P.S: After using our OPW Heritage Card at Ross Castle, we are now in the black by €1 each. Definitely a good buy.
    Read more

  • Laundry & SouthDoc

    June 23, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    Since the rain had picked up by the time we left Ross Castle, we decided to take a break from sightseeing and take care of business, so to speak.

    First, we sought out a launderette to do a load of wash ... the cost of staying in B&Bs on this trip instead of an AirB&B or similar. Since it was Sunday, the regular facilities were closed, but we found a kiosk-style launderette called “Rotation” at the Circle K on Park Street. There were two washers and one dryer. It took a bit of time, but we now have enough clean clothes to tide us over until we arrive in Dublin on 5 July to embark our cruise ... with a bit of hand washing of smalls along the way.

    Next, we headed to a pharmacy to pick up some eye drops for Mui’s conjunctivitis. Alas, the pharmacist said she needed a prescription before the drops could be dispensed. Luckily, there was a SouthDoc facility nearby.

    SouthDoc is an “out-of-hours family doctor service.” Thirty-minutes and a fee of €60 later, Mui had in his hands not only a prescription for the drops, but also one for antibiotics and a nasal spray. He’ll fill the second prescription if his sinusitis gets worse.
    Read more

  • Garden Restaurant — photos courtesy of the Muckross House website — Killarney NP, Ireland.

    Lunch Time!

    June 23, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    Errands completed, it was time for lunch before we resumed our sightseeing. Hah! Easier said than done. Killarney was hopping on this Sunday afternoon. Even the eateries on back streets had long queues waiting to be seated. And parking was impossible to find.

    With the rain continuing, an al fresco picnic was out of the question. So, we went with Plan C. Heading to our next sightseeing stop — Muckross House — we grabbed a bite to eat at the Garden Restaurant. Better than the average eateries one finds at most attractions.

    Snagging a table in the conservatory, Mui had a salad made with crisp greens and veggies. I thoroughly enjoyed the scone I got ... which came with a small salad. A pot of tea was the perfect accompaniment on this cold afternoon.
    Read more

  • Front facade of Muckross House — Killarney National Park, Ireland.
    Around the side of Muckross House — Killarney National Park, Ireland.The gardens are as they were when Queen Victoria visited — Muckross House ... Killarney NP, Ireland.The garden and grounds through a window in Muckross House — Killarney NP, Ireland.Looking across the grounds to Muckross Lake — Muckross House ... Killarney NP, Ireland.The room Queen Victoria slept in for one night in 1861 — Muckross House ... Killarney NP, Ireland.

    Muckross House @ Killarney NP

    June 23, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    Our tummies sated at the Garden Restaurant, it was time to explore the grounds. The rain had let up, giving us hope that we could do the path that circumnavigates Muckross Lake ... maybe hike up to the Torc Waterfall. Our hopes were soon dashed, however, when the rain began in earnest again.

    Switching plans, we headed over to the mansion to do the tour and get out of the rain. I’d read that the OPW Heritage Card did not cover admission at this property, but Mui asked anyway. The woman at the desk seemed surprised at first, but then took out the ledger, recorded our card info, had us sign our names, and voilà ... we saved €5.75pp. This one falls into the “it doesn’t hurt to ask” category.

    The Muckross Estate goes back to the 17th century. The mansion’s interior is decorated to reflect the 19th century look of the house ... the period when Queen Victoria stayed here for a night in 1861. Similarly, the gardens are landscaped to look as they would have during that auspicious occasion.

    Though the group size was a little larger than I would like for it to be, the docent who led us around was very knowledgeable. And the furnishings were quite lovely.

    No photos inside ... and alas, I forgot to pick up postcards (except for one that I found in town later). I guess we were too busy shopping for woolens woven by a cooperative on the estate ... a scarf and a tweed handbag for me; a matching tweed Kerry cap for Mui. Our Ireland souvenir shopping is now done. Or is it?
    Read more

  • Muckross Abbey was once known as the Franciscan Friary of Irrelagh — Killarney NP, Ireland.
    The wall of the chancel — Muckross Abbey ... Killarney NP, Ireland.The tower and the chancel — Muckross Abbey ... Killarney NP, Ireland.Entrance to the nave — Muckross Abbey ... Killarney NP, Ireland.The chancel from inside — Muckross Abbey ... Killarney NP, Ireland.The vaulted covered cloister walk — Muckross Abbey ... Killarney NP, Ireland.The yew tree is said to be as old as the 15th century abbey — Muckross Abbey ... Killarney NP.The abbey ruins from another vantage point — Muckross Abbey ... Killarney NP, Ireland.Draft horses grazing on the grounds — Muckross Abbey ... Killarney NP, Ireland.

    Muckross Abbey

    June 23, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    "Darkly grows the quiet ivy
    Pale the broken arches glimmer through
    Dark upon the cloister-garden
    Dreams the shadow of the ancient yew."
    ~ Attribution Unknown ~

    It was these words, which I found on the web, that sent us in search of the yew tree that stands in the cloister court. The tree is traditionally accepted as being as old as Muckross Abbey, which was founded in the mid-15th century.

    The ruins of the Franciscan abbey are set amidst a graveyard ... occasionally used for burials even now. The abbey was a short 20-minute stroll from Muckross House. The overcast added to the moody, dramatic ambiance as we wandered around the cemetery and the ruins.

    I’m glad that the rain remained a light drizzle, with the sun peeking out periodically, thus allowing us to find our way to check out the abbey ruins.

    As we were leaving, we even saw a couple of herds of the red deer that live in Killarney Park. It was pouring rain by then and the iPhone camera was not up to the challenge of photographing them. We inscribed the memory in our brains instead.
    Read more

  • Celtic Steps ... The Show

    June 23, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    We wrapped up our soggy day of sightseeing with an Irish dance and music show. Think “mini Riverdance.”

    The venue at the Killarney Racetrack was not the greatest. Uncomfortable seats ... narrow and hard. Only the chairs in the back half of the space were on risers. So, we opted to sit in that section for a better view of the “foot work.”

    Though the troupe was small — just five dancers and six musicians — the show was a lot of fun. The dancers were fantastic ... limbs flying fast and high. The musicians were great. And Roisín, violin player and singer, had the voice of an angel.

    Photography was allowed … no flash; but videography wasn’t.
    There’s a promotional video at this link (https://www.celticsteps.ie/our-story/) if you want to get a feel for the show.
    Read more

  • Day 6: Driving the Ring of Kerry

    June 24, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    The Iveragh Peninsula — popularly known as the Ring of Kerry — was where we went sightseeing today.

    Highly touted as a “... once in a lifetime experience that many return to,” the Ring of Kerry did not impress us much.

    Actually, it was the drive between the stops we made that was often disappointing because it seemed like we were driving through a “green tunnel” behind which the scenery was hidden. Where we caught glimpses of beauty, there was nowhere to pull over to enjoy the scenery.

    Had we done some hiking today, our impressions might have been different. But Mui — still battling the double whammy of conjunctivitis and sinusitis — was not up to doing any long walks.

    The good news? We enjoyed several of the stops we made today, so not all was lost.
    Read more

  • Ring of Kerry: Kenmare

    June 24, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    We were delighted to see the sun shining when we went down to an early breakfast before setting off on our day of sightseeing. It was a good omen ... even though the sun played peek-a-boo with the clouds throughout the day.

    Setting off to drive the Ring of Kerry in a counter-clockwise direction, our first stop before leaving Killarney was to have been the Torc Waterfall. Alas, the road to get there was closed. In fact, we had to backtrack a bit. Hence our direction driving the Ring ended up being clockwise instead. Luckily, the convoys of buses that tend to clog traffic on the narrow Ring of Kerry roads were non-existent today.

    Those who know us well are aware of our affinity to all things associated with the polar regions. The name of a County Kerry man — Tom Crean — is well known in the annals of Antarctic exploration. He participated in three expeditions ... two of which were quite eventful. Having read that he had a restaurant in Kenmare, we wanted to at least check it out.

    Arriving in Kenmare, we parked the car and set off to find “Tom Crean’s Fish & Wine.” We didn’t have to go far. Turns out that we’d parked across the street from it. Next, we went for a stroll around town. The streets were mostly deserted ... surprising at 9:30a on a Monday morning. Noticing that the door to the Holy Cross Church was open, we popped in to take a look at the stained glass windows ... for which I have a particular photographic fondness.

    And then, we were off to continue our drive.

    (More about Tom Crean at this link if you want to learn more ... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom_Crean_(explorer)).
    Read more

  • The River Sneem Estuary from the stone bridge — Sneem, Ireland.
    On the other side of the bridge are colorful buildings — Sneem, Ireland.Plenty of cars ... few people out and about — Sneem, Ireland.The Wholly Dough Doughnuts truck is parked in sight of a "Holy" church — Sneem, Ireland.St Michael's Church — Sneem, Ireland.View across the bay ... from a rare pullout on the road — Ring of Kerry, Ireland.

    Ring of Kerry: Sneem

    June 24, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 68 °F

    Our next stop after leaving Kenmare was the village of Sneem. What caught our attention here were some colorful buildings and a stone bridge crossing the estuary of the River Sneem.

    We parked the car near a coffee shop from which Mui picked up a cup of joe. We would have gotten some doughnuts from the “Wholly Dough” food truck that was parked in the “designated casual trading area,” but it was locked up tight.

    As was the case in Kenmare, Sneem seemed deserted. A curious situation on a Monday morning. After wandering around for a bit, we resumed our drive.
    Read more