Remote Weddell Sea Explorer

fevereiro - março 2025
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
For our fourth, and what we believe will be our last trip to the white continent, we opted for a unique and challenging itinerary. Leia mais
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun

Lista de países

  • Ilhas Geórgia do Sul e Sandwich do Sul Ilhas Geórgia do Sul e Sandwich do Sul
  • Brasil Brasil
  • Argentina Argentina
  • Estados Unidos Estados Unidos
Categorias
Casal, Navio de cruzeiro, Natureza, Região selvagem, Fauna
  • 23,9kmilhas percorridas
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  • 83pegadas
  • 39dias
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  • 954curtidas
  • Ushuaia: Our Kaupé Tradition

    10 de fevereiro, Argentina ⋅ 🌧 43 °F

    Kaupé = We are home … in the local indigenous language.

    Having dinner at this family-owned and operated restaurant is one of our pre-Antarctica expedition traditions. The ambiance is warm. The food is delicious. And we are always treated like we are one of the family. Indeed, it feels like we are home.

    —————————————————

    For those interested …

    Appetizers: Mussels; Caprese Salad
    Main Courses: Grilled Octopus; Chilean Sea Bass
    Dessert: Wedges of chocolate mouse on a bed of dulce de leche
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  • Ortelius snug in its berth! — Ushuaia, Argentina.

    Ortelius in Ushuaia

    10 de fevereiro, Argentina ⋅ 🌧 37 °F

    Ortelius — the Oceanwide Expeditions vessel that will be taking us on our polar adventure — is snug in its berth at the pier in Ushuaia.

    Embarkation day is nearly upon us. One more sleep on land tonight and we will likely be rocked to sleep at sea tomorrow night.Leia mais

  • Still raining when we wake up ... but no snow — Ushuaia, Argentina.
    The major snow event stayed in the mountains to frost the peaks — Ushuaia, Argentina.Need a fridge? — Ushuaia, Argentina.Mosaic mural — Ushuaia, Argentina.Mui finds a king penguin of his own — Ushuaia, Argentina.Mural of an owl at the artisan village — Ushuaia, Argentina.Before and after at our once-favorite empanada place — Ushuaia, Argentina.We make up for our disappointment at El Turco with delicious ice cream — Ushuaia, Argentina.A monument to the ancients, the pioneers, and the settlers — Ushuaia, Argentina.A monument to the ancients, the pioneers, and the settlers — Ushuaia, Argentina.A monument to the ancients, the pioneers, and the settlers — Ushuaia, Argentina.A monument to the ancients, the pioneers, and the settlers — Ushuaia, Argentina.Time to head to the port to embark on our Antarctic expedition — Ushuaia, Argentina.

    Ushuaia: One Last Wander

    11 de fevereiro, Argentina ⋅ 🌬 39 °F

    Rat-a-tat-tat! Throughout the night heavy rain pounded the picture window.

    What we didn’t know until we pulled open the drapes when we woke up was if that rain had changed to snow at some point. It had not. The ‘major snow event’ forecasted to bring 3” of the white stuff to Ushuaia had remained in the mountains.

    Checking out of the apartment at 10:00a, we Ubered to Club 1210 on Avenida Maipú … the designated luggage drop off. Embarkation of Ortelius was slated for 2:00p. We had planned for this … we would go for one last wander around the city and have empanadas for lunch.

    Coffee break at Tante Sara to get out of the soggy weather. Lunch … a tradition no more as El Turco, our favorite empanada place, now requires that you order a main course as well as empanadas … boo, hiss! To make up for that disappointment, a delicious sweet treat at Almendra … which very much lived up to its slogan … “the name of good ice cream.”

    And finally … time to embark Ortelius.
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  • The "hoped for" itinerary for our voyage.
    Still a lot of ice in the Weddell Sea ... but we have about 10 days before we get there 🤞🏻

    Remote Weddell Sea

    11 de fevereiro, Argentina ⋅ 🌬 41 °F

    If the ice conditions allow it once we cross the Antarctic Circle, this is where we will be going!

    Red is not a good color for us!

  • And We Are Off!

    11 de fevereiro, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Embarked Ortelius … ✅

    Settled into our cabin … ✅

    Got reacquainted with the ship … ✅

    Completed the mandatory safety briefing and muster drill … ✅

    Enjoyed the sailaway from the open decks … ✅

    Stopped off in the Beagle Channel to pick up the helicopters and Chilean pilots that will be accompanying us on this journey … ✅

    Attended the daily briefing; met the expedition team; and learned that we should have a fairly smooth first day crossing to South Georgia Island tomorrow … with waves in the 2.5-3 m (8-10 ft range) … ✅

    Enjoyed our first meal aboard Ortelius … ✅

    Attended the mandatory IAATO and zodiac operations briefings … ✅

    Ready to be rocked to sleep … ✅

    Our adventure has begun!
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  • Scott; Amundsen; Shackleton ... the three names most associated with this age of exploration.
    Captain James Cook ... the first to cross the Antarctic Circle ... 17 January 1773.Sara puts up a photo from the current day at the start of the daily recap ... Wandering Albatross.The first bit of land we will sight en route to SGI is Shag Rocks.To date, no one has seen alive a colossal squid, which can grow to 6m (20 ft) long.Quick review of latitudes and longitudes, and how to measure them.

    RWSE Day 2: @ Sea to SGI

    13 de fevereiro, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 45 °F

    “One must never be in haste to end a day; there are too few of them in a lifetime.” ~~ Sir Francis Drake ~~ (from the Daily Program)

    It was a rollin’ kind of night as we left the Beagle Channel for the Scotia Sea for the crossing to SGI (South Georgia Island). Not that the sea state was all that bad, but the waves were hitting us broadside. And they continued to do so throughout the day. One hand to the ship was the rule to keep ourselves safe.

    Oh my! What big feet we have!!!

    After breakfast, we were called down to collect our muck boots. I tend to get cold feet, so I wear a wool liner sock over which I put on really thick socks. Add the shearling sole inserts we brought with us, and that means I had to go up three sizes over my normal shoe size! Similarly, Mui went up three sizes.

    On an expedition of this nature, a day at sea is filled with lectures and presentations — “Sea Birds of the Southern Ocean” … “Search for Terra Incognito: Magellan to Cook” … to name a few from today.

    Another feature of these voyages is a daily recap during which the expedition leader — Sara Jenner, on this voyage — reviews the daily happenings and briefs passengers on the 'planned' activities for the next day. Other members of the expedition team will usually present snippets of interesting information … the colossal squid; and measuring latitudes and longitudes were amongst today’s topics.

    Overall, a quiet day at sea as Ortelius continues to maintain a steady speed of 11-12 knots.
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  • There are strict biosecurity rules for landings on South Georgia Island.
    South Georgia Island ... pretty far out in the Scotia Sea.Grytviken whaling station operated for 60 years; 175,000 whales hunted & processed.Endemic species of SGI ... saw them in 2007 ... will we see them this time?Cetaceans of the world ... they greatly vary in size.Good advice from Sara's photography presentation.Good advice from Sara's photography presentation.Good advice from Sara's photography presentation.No landings possible at Shag Rocks ... nor will we likely see them so clearly.Seabirds spend most of their lives aloft using the winds to do so without flapping their wings.Superstitions of the mariners of the Southern Ocean.And if a boy is born below decks where the guns are kept ... son of a gun!A project to map and explore seafloor habitats around South Orkney Islands.Detail of the South Orkneys SO-AntEco project.

    RWSE Day 3: @ Sea to SGI

    13 de fevereiro, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 37 °F

    “A journey is like a person, no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policies, and coercion are fruitless. We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip, a trip takes us.” ~~ John Steinbeck ~~ (from the Daily Program)

    Overnight we left the infamous Drake Passage — which treated us if not to a ‘lake’ then at least not to a really bad ‘shake’. We are now in the Scotia Sea.

    Our second morning at sea toward SGI (South Georgia Island) started off with a mandatory briefing … or rather a visitor guide video. Of primary concern here is the fragile ecosystem into which we do not want to introduce any alien species … organic matter in particular, such as seeds, soil particles, etc. To that end, there are very strict biosecurity rules. We will be inspected by government authorities when we arrive at SGI … and must get a minimum 85% compliance in order to be allowed ashore.

    This sea day otherwise followed the established routine of presentations — “Introduction to South Georgia” … “Whales and Dolphins of the Southern Ocean” … “How to Take Photos You Are Happy With.”

    At the daily recap, Sara announced that we should be arriving at Shag Rocks for our ‘cruise-by sightseeing’ around 7:15p tomorrow … assuming we can maintain our current speed. Members of the expedition team then shared snippets of information on topics ranging from how the sea birds use the winds to stay aloft; to the superstitions of mariners; to a summary of a study with regards to the Antarctic ecosystem.

    By the way, we lost an hour today … the change was made at noon so that we don’t lose an hour of sleep!
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  • First iceberg of our expedition — Scotia Sea.
    First iceberg of our expedition — Scotia Sea.First iceberg of our expedition — Scotia Sea.Penguins have no predators on land or in the air.Wings became flippers since the animals that prey on penguins are in the sea.Yes, penguins tolerate humans well ... but we do need to keep our distance from them.A quote about the three explorers whose names are associated with the Heroic Age of Exploration.Endurance got stuck in the Weddell Sea ice on 18 January 1915; and sank on 21 November 1915.107 years after it was crushed by ice and sank, Endurance was found on 5 March 2022Valentine's Day Recap Slide.We expect to make land at Right Whale Bay on SGI tomorrow.Conditions look good for our first landing on SGI.Contrary to popular belief, penguins are not necessarily monogamous.D'Urville named a portion of Antarctica and a penguin after his wife, Adélie.Illegal fishing in the sub-Antarctic ... the screenshot is from yesterday.

    RWSE Day 4: @ Sea to SGI

    14 de fevereiro, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 36 °F

    “The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.” ~~ St Augustine ~~ (from the Daily Program)

    Sighted our first icebergs of the voyage today! Many, many more to come.

    The Scotia Sea, on this third day of our crossing from the tip of South America to South Georgia Island, was calmer. Those conditions prevailed throughout the day.

    Presentations and lectures continues — “An Introduction to Penguins” … “History of Whaling in the Southern Ocean” … “Pray for Shackleton.” In the latter lecture, Tennessee jumped ahead to the ImperialTrans-Antarctic Expedition (aka the Endurance Expedition) since our itinerary will essentially be following a similar route through the Weddell Sea … without getting beset in the ice 🤞🏻

    Much of our afternoon was taken up with the mandatory biosecurity inspection required by South Georgia. We cleaned — including vacuuming pockets and such — all of our outer gear, and the expedition team inspected our work … just as the SGI authorities will be inspecting their work on arrival in Grytviken. We will get another chance to practice tomorrow since we will be landing on SGI before the official inspection.

    Daily recap and dinner were moved up in anticipation of our first land sighting since departing Ushuaia on 11 February.

    Sara briefed us on tomorrow’s landing location and weather/sea conditions … both look great. Expedition members then gave us their recap snippets — Gary talked about the ‘divorce rate’ amongst penguins … shattering the myth that they are primarily monogamous; in honor of Valentine’s Day, Tennessee talked about an explorer named D’Urville claiming land in Antarctica for King and Country … and naming it, as well as a penguin species, after his wife, Adélie; Claudio shared with us a screenshot from the Vessel Finder app that showed fishing vessels (transponders off = likely illegal fishing) around sub-Antarctic Islands and a fish processing vessel identified as a cargo vessel.

    And then … land ahoy!
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  • Shag Rocks ... Scotia Sea.
    Shag Rocks ... Scotia Sea.Shag Rocks ... Scotia Sea.Shag Rocks ... Scotia Sea.Shag Rocks ... Scotia Sea.

    RWSE Day 4: Shag Rocks

    14 de fevereiro, Ilhas Geórgia do Sul e Sandwich do Sul ⋅ 🌬 37 °F

    Shag Rocks are exactly what the name says they are … rocks that some might call islets. Part of the British Overseas Territory of South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands, they are 150 miles west of SGI. Rising from a depth of nearly 1,050 feet, the tallest of the six rocks reaches 246 ft above sea level.

    Covered by the guano of seabirds, the rocks are primarily home to the South Georgia shags, though it is also possible to see prions and wandering albatrosses here. The birds rest and breed on the steep peaks. We saw plenty of them as we passed by the rocks. Seals and whales inhabit these waters, but none of them put in an appearance tonight.
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  • Welcome to South Georgia Island ... a British Overseas Territory.
    Icebergs at South Georgia Island.Icebergs at South Georgia Island.South Georgia Island ... arrival.South Georgia Island ... arrival.South Georgia Island ... arrival.South Georgia Island ... arrival.South Georgia Island ... arrival.South Georgia Island ... arrival.South Georgia Island ... arrival.Photo bombed by a fur seal while taking a photo of an iceberg. Can you find the seal?On our way in to Right Whale Bay ... the site of our afternoon landing on SGI.On our way in to Right Whale Bay ... the site of our afternoon landing on SGI.Can you spot the Right Whale Bay king penguin colony that we will be visiting on SGI?Right Whale Bay ... our first time visiting this part of SGI ... what a place!A closer look at the king penguin colony — Right Whale Bay, SGI.And an even closer look at the king penguin colony — Right Whale Bay, SGI.And a really closer look at some of the king penguins at the Right Whale Bay colony — SGI.Scenery + penguins = a landing that is bound to be special.Let's go see the penguins and seals — Right Whale Bay, SGI.

    RWSE Day 5: Welcome to SGI

    15 de fevereiro, Ilhas Geórgia do Sul e Sandwich do Sul ⋅ ☁️ 36 °F

    “Sailors, with their built-in sense of order, service, and discipline, should really be running the world.” ~~ Nicholas Monsarrat (from the Daily Program)

    When we visited South Georgia Island in 2007, we started off near the top of the southwest coast, making our first landing at King Haakon Bay, before doing a zodiac cruise at Cape Rosa. Then, heading west, we rounded Bird Island to continue our exploration along the northern coast.

    Today, we headed straight for the northwestern shore of SGI. Icebergs and jagged peaks frosted with snow greeted us … at first a bit overcast and misty … but soon the light was brighter, the sun was peeking out, patches of blue were appearing in the sky, the colors were becoming deeper and more brilliant.

    What a welcome to SGI … as we made our way to today’s landing site.
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