• Erika Stafne
  • Erika Stafne

Amazon Rainforest Exploration

Heading to the Amazon rainforest in Peru to explore & research biodiversity. 🦋 Les mer
  • Reisens start
    6. juli 2026

    Heading out

    6. juli, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    And I’m off! Back to the old days of nalgenes and backpacks and luggage without wheels! 😳 I can do it!!! Excited to trade the rainy city for the rainforest… my first flight is already delayed, so send good energy for smooth connections. I did plan for an open day tomorrow, so arrival times can just be part of the adventure. Tomorrow, notes from Peru…Les mer

  • Day 1: Iquitos, Peru

    7. juli, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Sitting at a sidewalk cafe in the warm tropical air overlooking the river… Yes please! What a lovely day after a long journey. Delayed flights led me to flying standby in an attempt to make my connections (thank you to the incredible Delta staff) but I resigned myself to not seeing my luggage upon arrival as a result. But there it was on the carousel in Lima!!! 😃 A moving ramp made schlepping my bag through the airport a breeze and I got on my final flight just as the doors were closing with a cafe con leche in hand. The view from my window seat showed the vast expanse of the Andes and my first glimpse of the meandering Amazon.
    I walked across the tarmac in Iquitos to find a guide holding a sign with my name on it. He shared lots of local history on our way to the hotel. Iquitos is a city of about a million people surrounded on three sides by water: the Amazon, Nanay, and Itaya rivers. Their buses are made of wood (mahogany until it became rare) and “jungle Ubers” (3-wheeled tuk-tuks) are the main mode of transportation on land. The rivers are filled with all sorts of floating transportation. Gorgeous tile from Portugal adorns many of the buildings built by the wealthy during the rubber boom. Flags are stretched across many of the streets and a promenade offers river views. I spent the day wandering and napping, exploring and playing with my binoculars, and trying the local fare. Though I wasn’t brave enough to try caiman yet, I did have paiche, one of the largest freshwater fish in the world. The day was a perfect introduction to this gorgeous place!
    Tomorrow I head off on a 3 day river cruise. Looking forward to the incredible views and hoping to see the elusive pink river dolphin. Good night!
    Les mer

  • Day 2: Meeting the Amazon

    8. juli, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Well, I crashed the app trying to upload too many pictures. 😂
    Today began with my first jungle-uber/tuk-tuk ride. I was very glad I wasn’t driving! It is truly an art form. I was dropped off at the tourist launch site where I met my guide for the next couple of days. He started by showing us some of the local fare, specifically the palm tree worms. While I happily pet the wriggling one he presented to us, there was no way I was eating one, grilled or not. I did give the little girl in my group the courage to touch it, so I felt successful.
    We climbed on our fabulous blue boat and headed up river. You could clearly see where the dark, tannin rich river we started in met the latte brown Amazon (which you can clearly see on the map of my route). Our first stop was for an indigenous performance. They welcomed us by painting our faces in a traditional manner with red dye from a spiky fruit. They sang and then “taught us” to dance with them. It was joyful and beautiful, but as you can imagine, I just wanted to be back on the boat.
    Our next stop was to feed piranhas and caiman and the fish I had for dinner last night. I soon realized we were not really going to be looking for dolphins in the way that I had imagined. 😂 But it was a gorgeous day on and around the Amazon River, so I soaked up the wonder.
    Next we headed for the lodge and the rest of my group slept while I reveled in my time on the water. We had a delicious lunch and then some down time. I decided to explore the elevated walkway from the lodge into the jungle. It was only about 6 ft high but had no railings, and if you know me, you know I’m easily distracted and excitable. So I really had to focus on not falling off! But I took my binoculars and my Merlin app which identifies bird songs and spent some time soaking up the sights and sounds of nature. And I didn’t fall off.
    The afternoon took us to an animal rescue center where they rehabilitate animals from the black market and pet trade. We also tasted the local “medicinal” alcohols. My favorite happened to be the pink one that lowers cholesterol, which is just what the doctor ordered. 😂 We got drenched in a downpour, saw a prehistoric turtle, monkeys, and a capiberi, and headed back up river as the sun began to set.
    I’m looking forward to spending time looking closely tomorrow…
    What small things can I find growing? How many birds can I identify? And of course, will I maybe see a pink river dolphin??? What do you want to know???
    I’m falling asleep under a mosquito net to the sound of rain and frogs and insects… a tropical lullaby. xo
    Les mer

  • Day 3: BUCKET LIST!!!

    9. juli, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    It was a Bucket List Day!!! PINK RIVER DOLPHINS!!! They were so close and it was so peaceful that I could even hear them breathing. They really are pink! And small. 💕 AND, then later, the other species of fresh water dolphins, the grays, came frolicking by, leaping and tail splashing and showing off. It was unexpected and incredible and exactly what I hoped to experience when I decided to come down before my research project started. 🤩 Seriously though, PINK DOLPHINS?!? Amazing! (No photos because I was fully living in the experience.)
    The rest of the day was also full of joy and wonder. I had my morning coffee staring into the lush forest. Or first morning adventure was piranha fishing with wooden reed poles. I caught mine and flung it into the rafters accidentally. 😂 After our photo shoot, we set him free to swim again because he was too little. Check out those teeth though! That was enough for me and I did some watercolors while everyone else fished. (Their catches made a tasty fried fish lunch!) We then headed to a gently sloping bank and I put my feet in the river, opting out of the swim call.
    After lunch the rubber boots went on and we went for a jungle walk, almost immediately getting caught in a rainforest downpour. The volume of water and size of the raindrops were astounding, all while the sun danced through the leaves. Everything in the forest simply adjusts…the leaf cutter ants switching to the underside of their branch, choosing to fight gravity over deluge, as an example. I can’t wait to have the time to sit and watch and notice the small things when I get to the field station… We saw three species of monkeys, lots of medicinal plants, crazy insects, and my favorite of the walk: the Great Potoo bird which is so crazy looking and cool. If you didn’t know where to look you would only see a tree stump. (I could not capture its photo, but put a screenshot in for you.) I cooled down from the hike in the pool, watching the spider monkeys frolicking in the trees. I’m currently living a dream.
    After dinner we went for a night hike in the jungle! Let me tell you, those “lullaby” sounds I listened to from my bed last night? They sound VERY different when you are walking in the darkness with a little flashlight and one guy with a machete. 😆 I was practically glued to our guide and cannot imagine spend more than an hour out there. Mercifully we only saw some very cool insects including a tarantula and a scorpion spider. The photo does not do it justice - its legs were 6 inches long! I was very glad to climb back under my mosquito net tonight!
    Tomorrow is a sunrise boat ride. More wonder to look forward to. xo
    Les mer

  • Day 4: Sunrise Dolphins, Ziplines, & Connection

    10. juli, Peru ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    The day began with a walk to the river in darkness so we could see the sunrise from the water. While the clouds resulted in a muted sky, we were visited repeatedly by pink dolphins!!! The other couple in the boat slept while I felt like I had a personal visit from my aquatic friends. It was a magical way to start the day.
    After a nap and breakfast, we headed out to climb some trees, zip line through the canopy, and swing back down to terra firma. I’d forgotten how fun that is, and got to nerd out while waiting my turn in the treetops. 💚
    After lunch I said goodbye to lodge life and headed back to Iquitos, soaking up every moment on the water, and once again being visited by dolphins. My tuk-tuk ride was a white-knuckles, eyes-closed, I should tell my mom I love her sort of ride and I was very grateful to be dropped off at my hotel once again! There I met up with others on our research team who had arrived while I was up-river. We shared a rainstorm and a meal and began to get to know each other, looking forward to the next phase of this adventure. Tomorrow the rest arrive…
    Oh, a friend shared a video of the frolicking gray dolphins from yesterday. No, I was not swimming when they went by, I was standing in the river just out of the frame. Now before you feel badly that I “missed out,” know that: 1) I was full of joy. 2) 3 of those 5 people were not able to eat dinner last night & 1 left before dinner so who knows. 3) At least one of them puked their guts out all night. I stand by my choice to stand. In the words of a friend’s tattoo: NO REGERTS
    😂 xo
    Les mer

  • Day 5: Transitions

    11. juli, Peru ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    My day began at sunrise with a knock on my door announcing the arrival of friends who had just landed. They pushed through their exhaustion, we joined some others from our research team for breakfast, and then headed out for a touristy day on the river.
    Our tuk-tuk ride was pure fun instead of yesterday’s terror, and we were off. We headed back down to the docks for a river tour, stopping to check out the local food vendors. Today’s food of interest was grilled alligator. No thank you. Our day included visits to two indigenous tribes, both of which included face painting and dancing, and a trip to monkey island. I had visited the first tribe on my earlier trip, but the second was new. There I got to shoot a “poison” dart and hit the model directly in the mouth! There is hope for me in the jungle, apparently. 😆
    Monkey Island is a monkey rescue and rehabilitation site. There, monkeys of all types and levels of distress are cared for, rehabilitated, and freed if possible. The primatologist knew each of the rescues by name, story, and personality. And many others ran free to reproduce and later be relocated. We even saw the Pygmy monkey, the smallest species playing in the trees. Many had heartbreaking stories, but it was great to see the effort, care, and knowledge that is going into helping them. The island was also teeming with other bits of life that I was engrossed in. My favorite discoveries today were crazy varieties of mushrooms!
    Other bits of learning from the day… You are able to tell how high the river gets by the lichen lines on the trees. In many spots they are above my head, and the ground itself is more than 6 feet above the current water level (see photos). The dry season has just begun, so the water will continue to drop. That beautiful purple flower is an aquatic plant that I have been unable to get close to via boat. Today we found one high and dry, a final bloom before the plant dies because the water level dropped. I also learned that I have been saying things incorrectly. We headed DOWN river today (and every time I said up river). It is not directly according to the compass. It is directly based on river flow. Logical, but I am new to river travel. So when we head in the direction of the river’s flow, toward the sea and away from the Andes, we are heading down river.
    Tomorrow we head down river to the field station where our research projects begin. The whole team has arrived and I am ready to jump into the collaboration, science, and focused time in the rainforest. Yay science! xo
    Les mer

  • Day 7: Fluorescent Forest Fungus! 💚

    13. juli, Peru ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    Tonight we went on a night hike, which was less terrifying than last time, but not something I’d pursue regularly. EXCEPT… we saw fluorescent fungus carpeting the forest floor! 🤩 It was magical. There is a fungus that lives on a specific species of tree leaf, a tiny, unassuming leaf, but on a moonless night the forest floor glows green! You have to have the specific tree and lots of rain for it to grow. Indigenous tribes used to collect them by daylight and place them to guide their journeys at night. 💚💚💚 Think Avatar, and then imagine it in real life!
    Today we started our research projects. I am on the tree-fall team. We have two specific trees that have fallen in the forest where we are monitoring the growth of the plants that are suddenly exposed to sunlight after years of shade. Many seeds sprout in the forest and then stay small for years, waiting for sunlight when they grow like mad. We are looking at 3 parallel 15 meter transects that run perpendicular away from the tree. At 5 meter intervals we are measuring temperature & humidity (with sensors programmed to collect data), percentage of groundcover (that’s with the white pvc square you see me holding), the diameter of trees growing along the line, and percentage of canopy cover using the spherical densiometer - a little curved mirror with grid lines on it to calculate the percentage of sky that is visible. We had to have our guide do some bushwhacking to get to our measurement spots because the plants have grown so much over the past year. I sang a little song as I walked into the jungle: Please don’t kill me, please don’t kill me… So far, so good.
    After lunch we worked on rebuilding the orchid and bromeliad library garden. And I unwittingly was twinning with my lead researcher. 😊
    Some of today’s learnings:
    - Singing helps fear
    - Many plants in the rainforest have adapted to grow their new leaves in a reddish brown color. This fools predators into thinking the leaves are dead, so the new growth doesn’t get chomped.
    - Pink river dolphins have a twisted jaw, probably to add asymmetry for echolocation. And for us to hear them communicate, we have to slow down the recordings because their frequency is above our hearing range, the opposite of blue whales, whose sounds we need to speed up.
    - Fluorescent Fungus!
    - That beautiful frog has enough poison to kill three people.
    - Jungle science is real cool, even when you are sweating to death.
    What do you want to know? What should I look for tomorrow? xo
    Les mer

  • Day 8: Stargazing from the Canopy Top

    14. juli, Peru ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Remove all of the light pollution, stand above the tops of the trees, and look up. Wow. The Milky Way. The southern cross. The jungle night sounds. What a beautiful place in the universe to be. 🦋
    The day ended with a canopy walk in the dark. On our night hike we saw a sloth, and possum, tarantula, scorpion spider, fuzzy little rodent of some sort, katydids, and moths with glowing/reflecting red eyes. Quite an adventure. The day started with data collection for our first tree fall plot. We went back to our sight to finish our two remaining transect lines. We also set up two butterfly nets to see if there was any variation in butterfly prevalence in the shade vs a sunnier spot. Turns out that the magical butterfly bait is smushed banana mixed with local rum. Tomorrow we will see what we caught!
    In case you were wondering about the weather, check out our data sensors. When we were in the field this morning the humidity level was 99.9%!!! 😂 I have never sweat so much in my life.
    This afternoon we learned how to safely remove butterflies from our traps and helped a bit with the butterfly research project. They are comparing how many butterflies are caught in the canopy level vs the ground level. They check their 6 traps every 24 hours. Each butterfly is put in a freezer for 30 seconds, then photographed and measured. Once it warms back up, it is released to flutter again…
    Les mer

  • Day 9: Beauty & Terror

    15. juli, Peru ⋅ 🌧 29 °C

    The Amazon rainforest is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. Everywhere you look there is something incredible living, growing, decomposing…
    The Amazon rainforest is one of the most terrifying places I have ever been. An undercurrent of low grade panic is nearly constant. What a juxtaposition. I cannot imagine hiking, sleeping, living out here. I love my mosquito net, home cooked meals, and flushing toilets! I am grateful for both the beauty and the fear and give endless respect to those who explore more deeply!
    Today it’s bullets points because I need to sleep.
    - morning bird watching on the canopy.
    - butterfly net checking and release
    - data collection on our second treefall
    - a visit to the shamin
    - a river cruise where we saw a three toed sloth.
    - a night cruise where we saw many things I won’t share.
    Tomorrow: tree fall three. A newly fallen tree to collect baseline data
    I am overflowing with gratitude. xo
    Les mer

  • Day 10: Forest Frolicking

    16. juli, Peru ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    When I scroll through my photos from today, I see JOY and SCIENCE and BEAUTY. We started our day by following our fearless and funny guide and his machete out to our new tree fall site. Multiple trees had fallen recently, so we were collecting the baseline data for a multi year study. First we had to choose our tree. We decided that the largest one, which had probably taken the others down, was our tree. If you want to see the description for what we are doing, I explain it in a video. We are measuring ground cover and canopy cover at regular intervals in transect lines away from our tree. We had fun climbing about and dodging biting ants, while we collected data.
    Next we headed over to our second tree site to look at our butterfly traps. We caught a blue morpho, the butterfly on our hats! 🦋 We also got katydids, moths, some other butterflies , and other flying critters lured in by our alcoholic banana mash. I have gotten much better at gently getting them out of the trap and into their envelopes for transport.
    After lunch we took a looooong jungle walk full of wonder and learning. We headed to a place called Abuelo’s Garden, a very special part of the forest. The trees there have a symbiotic relationship with a species of ant. The ants nest in the trees, creating little bulges along the branches. They produce a herbicide that kills any other plants that grow in the area. You can see on the photos where there is a line of brown on the ground. The trees have all of the light and nutrients to themselves, thanks to the housekeeping of the 🐜 🐜 🐜. You must ask permission of the forest to enter the area and give gratitude upon your departure. The place naturally brought a feeling of reverence.
    The walk was filled with flowers and mushrooms and incredible trees and forest sounds and FRESH JAGUAR TRACKS! What a day…
    Les mer

  • Day 11: Misty Mornings & Glowing Nights

    17. juli, Peru ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    A summary of my day:
    - a misty morning walk in the canopy to say hello to the trees
    - field report work
    - a walk through the jungle to collect the butterfly net
    - field report work
    - field report work
    - Oreos
    - field report work
    - a walk through the jungle to stand among the glowing leaves and say thank you

    We are at that point in the journey where the end is looming and I still want to see and do and learn so much more. I am soaking up (and then sweating out 😆) every magical, curious, interesting, scary, funny, wondrous moment. We are wrapping up our projects and preparing our presentations and lessons and field reports (that part is my job) and I think about all of the students who I have pushed through this part and I just want to go outside and play. 😆 Though I also have been reminded of how much I also love this part of science, especially with a great team.
    Tomorrow we are visiting the Maijuna community to learn from them about indigenous conservation strategies. Must sleep now because it will be an early morning boat ride… xo
    Les mer

  • Day 12: Coffee With the Monkeys

    18. juli, Peru ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    The day started extra early with a boat ride to another lodge. There we had breakfast while being entertained by the local squirrel monkeys. Their aerial acrobatics are amazing and funny! Our day was filled with boat rides up and down the river as we traveled between the eco-lodge and an indigenous community where we learned some of their history, arts, and conservation strategies.
    The Maijuna people consist of four communities and are responsible for the large conservation area in this part of the Amazon rainforest. They worked diligently over decades to have their voices recognized and their culture and lands protected. The taught us how the keep and care for hives of stingless bees in order to sustainably harvest the honey, which has important medicinal properties. I definitely had to do some mindfulness practice when Catalino opened the hive and the bees started buzzing all around us. (Inhale. They’re stingless. Exhale. They can’t sting you. Inhale……) They are different in many ways from bees that I am familiar with. The wax was a dark reddish brown color and not organized into the stereotypical hexagonal pattern. Some come in a blue color, others black, and the ones we saw were “blonde.” Historically the Maijuna would chop down a tree to collect the honey. This way allows them to sustain the bees and their hives, as well as the trees.
    After lunch back at the lodge, a lovely rest, and lots of amazing moths, we had a lesson in cord making, starting from what appeared to be a stick. The stick was shaken violently until it turned into a giant palm frond. This was stripped, then each blade was stripped, until a long, thin fiber was left. The ladies taught us how to roll these on our legs in order to create the cording. I got one good roll in with it looking just like a tiny rope, and then I could not repeat it. My teacher finally just toed her own work around my wrist with a chuckle. We had the opportunity to shop from their incredible creations and I’m. Not sure how o will fit everything in my bag. A challenge for another day.
    Back at the lodge we learned how the Maijunas had set up miles of transect lines with trail cameras throughout the jungle on their land. They maintained these for years and collected so much evidence of biodiversity that it aided in the creation of their conservation area.
    Their warmth as a community and commitment to protecting their resources left me feeling full of hope. When many use their voices, change happens.
    After dinner and before we headed back, some of us went frogging around the pond at the lodge. I got a glimpse into one of the other groups and had so much fun looking for “eye shine” and seeing so many of the crazy and beautiful frogs here.
    We piled into a boat for the ride back to the field station. The crescent moon had just set and the Milky Way spread across the sky in the opening of the canopy created by the river. I spent most of the rode staring upwards and soaking it in with a silly grin on my face. Around one bend there was a still inlet and the water created a perfect reflection of the southern cross. How lucky am I…
    Les mer

  • Day 13: Times Flies

    19. juli, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today was filled with incredible gifts from the forest and lots of science. Tomorrow morning I get on a boat to another boat to a bus to a plane to another hemisphere and I cannot believe it. I have many hours at the airport on a layover tomorrow, so more then. But I finished the night with dancing and laughter and my heart is full. Grateful. xoLes mer

  • Day 14: The Heart of the Amazon

    20. juli, Peru ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    If you know me, you know I love nature, that I could spend hours, days, weeks looking and exploring and noticing every little bit of magic and beauty and connection. If you know me, you know I love science, specifically field science, asking questions, looking for answers, getting muddy, making connections. If you know me, you know I love to explore, to go somewhere new, to leap out of my comfort zone and suck the marrow out of life. But I have to say that none of those things were the heart of this experience for me.
    I sat alone in the boat heading back to Iquitos from the field station thinking about the heart of the Amazon. It’s the people.
    The people who live there. The guides who share their knowledge and stories, their hand when you didn’t even realize you needed it, their guidance for how to stay unstung/unstabbed/undead, their favorite place on the planet as a surprise gift, their machetes and laughter and deep care, and who go into the local communities and cities to share their knowledge with the children and teach them to see and love and protect their jungle. The Maijuna who share their indigenous knowledge, their strategies for protecting and sustainably using the forest, their names and stories and smiles. Those who created places to walk above the trees, places to study the bugs and plants and frogs and… , and laws to protect and conserve the land and all the magic it holds.
    The people who have passed through. Each time I sang a song to calm my fears or took a deep breath as I imagined things waiting in the darkness to sting/stab/kill me I thought of those who have passed thru here in order to get somewhere that would offer them a better life. I know several of them personally. I think of their light and laughter and brilliance and bravery and resilience and ability to find beauty even in struggle. I am in awe for so very many reasons. And I trust that the forest gave them gifts of beauty and magic.
    The people who don’t start here, but come back and create home and family. The researchers who’s passion oozes out of their pores and makes you want to catch every frog, count every epiphyte, catch bugs or fish or birds, who make you ask questions and push yourself to find answers. The women who fell in love with a place and realized that teachers have the power to inspire generations of conservationists and change agents, and created an opportunity for us to come and learn and become part of a family in order to connect our students to this place.
    People. The heart of the Amazon. Thank you. I am sad to leave but so filled with gratitude. I told the trees again today. And the river. But I’m telling you: the people are the 💚
    Les mer

  • Crawly Critters

    21. juli, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Beautiful, beguiling, bitey, big, beneficial, bugs! Everywhere, all the time. The colors! The camouflage! The survival strategies! Grasshoppers and katydids. Spiders of every size and color. Beetles in the most fabulous colors! Caterpillars (do NOT pet them!) and millipedes. And ants, ants, ants. Bullet ants. Fire ants. Leaf cutter ants. Army ants. Tiny ants that live in a specific tree species and produce an herbicide so nothing grows under their tree. The variety is endless! Don’t touch the trees or plants. Don’t walk barefoot, especially in the dark. Shake your boots and clothes before you put them on. Wear long sleeves, long pants, tuck your pants into your socks. But LOOK, LOOK, LOOK, because their beLes mer

  • Fluttery Friends

    21. juli, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Moths typically rest with their wings open, butterflies closed. Both are covered with scales. Some scales are colored, some refract light. To catch them without harming them, gently pinch the wings together behind their head. For our data collection, we placed them gently in an envelope, then put them in the fridge and then freezer for a very brief time. This left them immobilized for measuring and identification, and then they were able to fly free.Les mer

  • Fungus Among-us

    21. juli, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Decomposers’ paradise! The rainforest is the most biodiverse ecosystem on the planet. But it has terrible, nutrient poor soil! This is because decomposition happens so quickly and there is so much plant growth to use up the decomposed organisms. The moisture and low-light of the understory make it a paradise for fungus!Les mer

  • Reisens slutt
    21. juli 2026