• Linda Ginenthal
Apr – May 2024

Mexico City, DC, & Family 2024

This year I’m headed to New Jersey for a Ginenthal-fest, then to Washington DC to visit some old friends, and then on to Mexico City. Read more
  • Trip start
    April 13, 2024

    Pre-Trip Planning

    April 10, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I’ve been so busy these last few months with my board responsibilities at Capital Bike, I’ve hardly had the opportunity to do much planning. Luckily, I’m travelling with Sheryl who has mapped out our 11 days together in Mexico City. My travel pal, Gail Gabler is joining us for Sheryl’s last four days and will stay on with me for another six days. Then I’ll be on my own for three days. Maybe a birding trip will be in my future.

    We get picked up at the ungodly hour of 4:20am on Saturday. Not looking forward to that, but it means I’ll be at my dad’s in time for dinner.

    Thanks for coming along with me.
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  • Karl (dad), Robin and me
    Frankie, nephew Andrew, his father Michael (my twin brother), and meFrankie and me on the sunny back patioBack row, Andrew and Michael. Front row, Robin, Frankie, me, Chris, and dadJeremy's family playing Slicing Fruit. Hilarious! Cameron, Jeremy, Austin, and BeckyCameron, Chris, Jeremy, and Austin

    Ginenthal Extravaganza

    Apr 13–17, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Robin, my sister, picked me up from the airport on her way down from Boston and the gabfest commenced. She’s my bestie. I got her up to date on my crazy last few weeks dealing with one issue after the next at Capital Bike. She shared her travails.

    An hour later, we arrived at my dad’s house in Jersey.

    Dad is 89 and has outlasted his identical twin brother by seven years. His mind is pretty sharp, but he naps a lot. Chris, his wife of more than 45 years, takes good care of him. It was really nice to see them together. Very sweet. I do wonder if this visit will be the last.

    Growing up I thought everyone had a piano in their living room. My dad has always loved playing. For most of my childhood I didn’t appreciate it. His music was schmaltzy and the lyrics were hilarious/embarrassing. “She’s an elegant woman. She has style and she has grace. When she comes into a room, it becomes a special place.” See what I mean?

    But now he doesn’t like to play. He doesn’t have the dexterity and stamina to sit for long at the keyboard. We did coax him, however, to play a little. The sound was so familiar and familial. It’s hard to see him so heartbroken.

    The next day, Michael, my twin brother, and his son, Andrew, arrived for a day trip from New York. Michael is a Jehovah’s Witness (JW) and how. His zealotry creates some family tensions. His son, Andrew is not a Witness. He lives in Harlem and puts together box furniture for a living. This was only the second time I’d seen him since he was 14. I’m not sure what makes him tick yet.

    We spent the day on the side patio soaking up the sunshine and trading new and old stories.

    Day two we all went to my half-brother, Jeremy and his family’s home. He’s a former JW which accounts for two separate Ginenthal gatherings. Michael and my two stepsisters adhere to the JW shunning rule. It’s pretty cruel really.

    Jeremy is a collector and seller of vintage video games. We ended up playing Slicing Fruit. It’s just like it sounds. You stand in front of the screen and try to karate chop the floating fruit that pop up. So silly. I’m not a gamer, but this was interactive and surprisingly fun.

    I’m eating too much. I think this whole vacation will be like that.

    Three days and four nights jam-packed and fun-filled with all manner of Ginenthals is good and good enough.
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  • You know the Capitol Building
    The Mall"Mayor for Life" Marion Barry Jr.Paul Kuntzler - only remaining original picketers from 1965Reenactment of the April 17, 1965 White House PicketNational Museum of Women in the ArtsBob

    Washington DC Again

    April 17, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Washington DC is beautiful this time of year. The weather is temperate; trees are that soft green with the dogwoods and azaleas showing off. Bob met me at Union Station for a short walk to his Capitol Hill apartment.
    Bob walks everywhere. He has never been a fan of bicycling and doesn’t own a car. Once I dumped my stuff, we headed off to the Eastern Market area for lunch. What strikes me about the city is all the men in suits and women in business skirts and dresses. I didn’t spy stockings, but everyone is dressed up like they are ready for a serious job interview. Shoes are shined and even sneakers are crisp and clean. I do remember this but is has been a very long time.
    We made our way up the mall and on to Pennsylvania Avenue comparing political notes. We passed by the DC City Hall with a larger-than-life statue of the “Mayor for Life”, Marion Barry. Back in the mid-80s, I worked for his re-election campaign (slogan - Making a Great City Even Greater) and then in the Community Services office for a couple years. I learned a lot in my time as one of only a couple of white people in that office. I remember having very little to do at the time. Barry wanted us to lay low as the community hated him in that moment - which was a reoccurring theme. To keep busy I read about this new-fangled approach to keeping track of constituents - an Rbase database. I read the dense manual and built us a database that their office used for nearly ten years! Walking down memory lane.

    We were on our way over to be a part of the reenactment of the first White House picket for gay rights which was held on April 17, 1965. Yup, the 59th anniversary. Only one of the original picketers, Paul Kuntzler, was there to participate. I knew Paul back in the day when I was an officer and member of the Gertrude Stein Democratic Club. I also am recalling Dr. Frank Kameny, the founder of the Washington DC Mattachine Society - for gay rights. Frank was a cantankerous, tenacious, and generally right on target kind of fellow. He had been kicked out of the US Army for being gay. In a letter Kameny wrote to President Lyndon B. Johnson, he said, “We ask, Mr. President, for what all American citizens - singly and collectively - have the right to ask that our problems be given fair, unbiased consideration… consideration in which we, ourselves, are allowed to participate actively and are invited to do so.” I can hear his voice in this.

    Today, I visited with a dear friend and former mentor and boss, Mary Jean Collins. She and I along with Gail Gabler (my travelling pal) organized the Chicago ERA Reunion just before the pandemic. You can read about it in earlier blog posts of mine. Mary Jean was one of the leaders in NOW (National Organization for Women) from its inception in the 1960s. I had just read a book that outlines the history of the organization that centers itself on telling the chronology and story of NOW through three very different and very consequential leaders. Mary Jean is one of them.

    She has a political analysis that is steeped in a practical, positive and solutions-focused views. Her bookcases display both contemporary and historical non-fiction that informs her thinking. It was exhilarating to spend and hour and a half talking with and listening to her. It wasn’t all politics though. We got into talking about our families and health and getting old. Mary Jean is just a tad older than my mom - 84 years old. I forgot to take a photo - but I’m seeing her tomorrow night.

    Mary Jean lives just across the street from National Zoo. I used to visit the seals and sea lions all the time. I got to know their personalities and names. I felt like I needed to see them again. Since they only live about 20 to 25 years, none were the same individuals. More walking down memory lane.

    I caught up with Bob for lunch and a walk over to the National Museum for Women in the Arts. The newly renovated building was spectacular, and the art was a wonderful smattering of styles and disciplines. I really enjoyed being in a really great museum. It’s something I miss in Victoria.

    Later that afternoon, Bob and I walked along Massachusetts Ave up to Logan Circle. It is unrecognizable. Highway 395 is partially buried, and dozens of new buildings and green spaces have been erected. Some of the streets nearby would have been frightening when I lived here. While it is super nice to stroll, I do wonder where all those poorer families have gone.

    Bob had a bocce ball game with the Stonewall Bocce league. Couple hundred gay men in their colour-coded tees were clumped in their teams tossing balls and trying desperately to keep score while chattering. Since Portland doesn’t have a very large population of gay men, it was fun to be a spectator to all that. Boccesaurus Rex (Bob’s team) lost, kinda badly to a team that hadn’t yet won a game all season.

    I’m averaging over 18,000 steps every day after lots of sitting around at my dad’s. My dogs are tired.
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  • Chris RiddioughJudy NedrowMary Jean Collins

    Washington Day Three

    April 19, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    A nice morning with a cup of coffee and good bagel and cream cheese. After a day in sandals and a skirt, today was downright chilly.

    We walked to the East Wing of National Gallery of Art where they house the modern collections. They had a woven arts exhibit. I love fabric art. Some showed home furnishing swatches and others sculptural pieces. The texture is the thing. The debate is is it craft or art. Seen traditionally as women’s work, its craft.

    The tunnel running between the East and National gallery is a work of art too. Very space age. I did a little shopping and had a nice lunch gazing at the underground waterfall.

    The National Gallery of Art, like most all the museums, is free. You can wander in for an hour or spend the whole day. Either way you get your money’s worth. I would spend many days wandering around discovering works and different corners of this museum. I visited some old favorites and, with Bob’s knowledge, learned more about what I was seeing.

    Late afternoon Bob and I took the Metro up through Ward 5 and 4. It is, again, nothing like when I lived here. Whole swaths of what was industrial land and rundown neighborhoods are entirely built up with apartments. None reach past the 10 stories limit dictated by the height of the Capitol Building. It makes this city so light not having tall shadows.

    We arrived at Chris and Judy’s home for dinner. Mary Jean was not far behind. As this is DC and these were my pals during my political career, conversations veered toward the state of the nation (USA, of course) and the tangle of political issues and pols.

    I find myself feeling more and more Canadian as the years tick by. Washington sees itself as the center of the nation and the world. When I lived in Portland, that “inside the beltway” mentality nearly disappeared in relevance and interest. Now in Victoria, I can see the consequences of living in a smaller-in-significance in terms of world power, nation. We can carve our own path modeled on our own values and culture looking to Europe first and US second; at least that’s my view. From immigration, abortion, guns, and media, the differences are pretty big. I’m happy for that.
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  • Two plus more days in Washington

    April 20, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Days are full. Saturday morning, Bob and I walked down to Eastern Market where I used to do my weekly grocery shopping. It is a bit more arts and crafts and less with foodstuffs outside, but this inside is great. We bumped to an old friend from my NARAL days (ProChoice America - or some other name it has now). Lisa lives in beautiful West Virginia. She is less enamoured - the politics there is pretty rough. Trump country. It is in these moments, I am reminded of how lucky I am that I get to live in Canada. That 90-minute ferry ride across the border makes a big difference.

    Right near the Supreme Court is the Belmont-Paul Women’s Equality National Monument. Until fairly recently, it was a private museum of sorts. I gotta say, it is pretty sparse of furniture, artifacts, and information. I know the stories so was able to enjoy it, but it needs a good curator. The ferocity of the women who fought for women’s suffrage belies the whole “fairer sex” thing. They were jailed, force-fed, and maligned mercilessly - for decades. I do hope that at some point this national monument will be elevated.

    Conveniently, Saturday was the Democratic Party Convention for DC where delegates are chosen. It is an insiders game. You have to make your way over to the Convention Center to cast your ballot. I ran as a delegate in 1984 to represent Mondale. With the immense organizing by the Gertrude Stein Democratic Club, I came in second behind the sitting City Councilmember, Betty Ann Kane. Who the hell is this Ginenthal? This was the year of Jesse Jackson, so he captured the lion’s share of seats here in DC.

    “It’s me. Hi. I’m a French Cream Donut” beckoned for days. We finally gave in on Sunday. It was as delicious as it sounds. We walked it off (at least that is what I’m focusing on) going over to the National Museum of the American Indian on the mall. What used to be just small collections of a few of the 900 different tribes/nations on display is now an eloquent telling of the history of colonialism in the USA and Canada. Take a look at my photos. Recognize the dates? Highly recommend on your next visit to DC.

    We walked down to the Wharf area: a neighbourhood that didn’t exist when I lived here. Trendy restaurants and everything new. Along the way, we saw four women dressed in giant blow-up costumes. No party, no event. Just four kooky women out enjoying their day?

    Dinner in Chinatown at a very traditional restaurant where Bob is a known customer. They knew his regular order. Chinatown is not quite so cleaned up as most of the other areas we visited.
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  • Congressional Cemetery and Bay Street

    April 22, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I had an afternoon train, so Bob got to tour me around the Congressional Cemetery. I have visited many times, but it had been a while. Along the way, we passed by the controversial statue of Abraham Lincoln with an emancipated slave. The positioning of Lincoln towering over a crouching slave is less than enlightened. In any case, it still stands.

    Because it was not feasible or practical to ship a body home for burial, the Congressional Cemetery hosts many former members of Congress who died while in DC. Here are the graves and memorial markers I noted (*notes people I knew when I lived in DC):
    Jim Graham* - Jim was an AIDS activist and ran the Gay Men’s Health Clinic when I lived in DC. In later years he successfully ran for City Council. https://www.washingtonpost.com/local/former-dc-…;
    An accordion player - This woman had her graves stones carved into the shape of an accordion - Music is the Answer.
    A librarian - He “cataloged” himself creating a Library of Congress card catalog number and all other features one might find on a traditional library card - hole and all.
    John Phillip Sousa - famous band music writer.
    Northwest Native American totem arch - Not sure the story here, but it is beautiful.
    Marion Barry Jr.* - The quote from Maya Angelou etched on his grave reads, “Marion Barry changed America with his unmitigated gall to stand up to the ashes of where he had fallen and came back to win…”
    Leonard Matlovich* - He was one of the early contractors of AIDS and died in 1988. His stone reads, “When I was in the military, they gave me a metal for killing two men and a discharge for loving one.” During my time in DC so many of my fellow gay and lesbian activists died of AIDS. It was a scary time. I never did count the number of men and women who I worked with or volunteered with who died of AIDS, but it was a lot.
    Frank Kameny* - His is only a memorial grave marker as it is unclear where his was laid to rest. He is located in what Bob would call, “The Gay Neighbourhood” in the cemetery. His famous quote is “Gay is Good”.
    Clyde Anderson Towson - is buried about 10 grave sites over from his lover, FBI Director, J. Edgar Hoover. Yes. That’s what made him (Hoover) so damn angry and mean.
    Barbara Gittings and her partner Kay Lahusen - are buried in the gay neighbourhood. Gittings organized the Daughters of Bilitis in 1958 and was one of the picketers at the White House in 1965.
    Bob Dardano* - future resting place is just next to Gittings and Lahusen and other gay activists. His spot sits at the base of a beautiful cherry blossom tree. He’ll be covered with pink petals every spring. Hopefully no time soon.
    Tom Foley - former Speaker of the House has an infinity sculpture in steel. One of a kind.
    Alain Locke - First African American Rhodes Scholar
    Warren Robbins - Founder of the National Museum of African Art located on the Mall.

    Lastly, I went over to my old house at 1828 Bay Street. I purchased that house for $75,000 back in 1986 when I was 26 years old. Cathy, my former partner, and I had the small kitchen completely gutted and redone. I scrapped five layers of wallpaper off the living and dining room walls to discover that the corners where the walls met had never been sealed - only papered over. We put a lot of sweat equity in that three-bedroom, one bath house. It looked nice and well maintained.
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  • Three of us
    Sheryl's grandparent's gravestonesSheyrl's dad's resting placePaul and Herb discussing something important I'm sureJeanne getting some baby TV timeSo cute - the both of themKen and JenPassover feastZoey and Jeanne

    Passover with Sheryl’s Family

    April 24, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I love the train. It is quiet, comfortable and quick. Sheryl and her mom, Jeanne, picked me up at 30th Street Station in Philadelphia on our way to Passover Seder at Fredda and Paul Pennock’s home. But first we stopped to visit the grave site of Jeanne’s parents, Pauline and David Levenberg, and Sheryl’s dad, Joseph Sackman. It always feels weird to me to see a headstone with a blank space. It feels rather menacing. It was a good thing to do. Sheryl’s mom can’t drive to visit - at 99, she doesn’t drive on highways or super busy streets anymore.

    Seders are often long, drawn out affairs with lots of stories, songs, and catching up with family we only see once a year. This year the ceremony was rather truncated. I’m not sure why but the somberness of the Israeli hostages and the war in Gaza weighed heavy.

    Max, and his partner (whose name I can’t remember) drove down from Maine to visit with their 8-month-old (giant) baby. Sheryl and her mom got to spend some quality time with this bundle of cuteness. The brisket and turkey were delicious along with the twice baked potatoes. We sat at what would normally be described as the kid’s table (off to the side). Joining Sheryl, Jeanne and I were Ken and Jen. Ken is one of my other twin brother from another mother. He is a blast. Jen is the new grandma of the giant baby (I gotta pay more attention to names).

    The next couple days were spent at my MIL’s house hanging out, eating good bagels, and enjoying Jeanne’s company. We are planning her 100th birthday party either on her birthday in December or for next spring when the weather is better. It is remarkable that we can think about postponing a 100th birthday celebration as if there is no rush. Sheryl’s mom still works one day a week, lives alone, and spends more time chatting with friends than either Sheryl and I combined. She is impressive. As we left on Thursday morning, she was getting ready to plant some pansies and spread a bit of mulch in her garden.

    Well, we are off to Mexico City!
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  • Day One - Mexico City

    April 26, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Mercado de Medellin, walking tour, around neighborhood, lunch,

    We are staying in La Condesa, a somewhat posh (although not to most posh) area of Mexico City. We had it on good recommendation from our friends Dave and Eileen who have travelled here many times. We were not disappointed. The streets are just layered with big arching trees. The architecture of the buildings big and small is beautiful and creative. It performs like many a European city.

    We woke up nice and early for our first day. We had a guided walking tour scheduled for 11am so we wended our way through three or four lovely parks, visited the Mercado de Medellin, and took in some nice murals before reaching the meeting place. Unlike Victoria, Mexico City has a real dedication to making their buildings canvasses for art. When we met up with our group, we had already been walking around for three hours. My feet were already complaining.

    It is always a good idea to get a tour in early in one’s stay. Who knew that Mexico City was built on a filled-in lake - and consequently is sinking 1.5mm per year. Windows that had been above street level are now partly below grade. Yikes! We visited the oldest church and square in Mexico City. It was established in the 1500s in an area now called La Romita. We also visited a former horse track that was later turned into a circular or really oval drive. Located in the center of the city, it is remarkable quiet.

    By one o’clock, our group was starving. We stopped at a street vendor making green tortillas with this wonderful mushroom and cheese filling. Fabulous. At the final stop, we arrived at one of the parks we had already visited but all the kids, young adults, and older folks that had been doing exercises like boxing, skating, Pilates, and other recreational activities had already departed. And then the light rain came.

    We made our way back to the market to pick up some fruits and vegetables and groceries. It is fun to look at all the fresh items but can’t really eat. The rules are no uncooked items unless they can be peeled. Too bad. I’m not willing to chance it though. You also can’t drink the tap water. We are avoiding ice too. Sigh.

    A good first day.
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  • Day Two - Yolanda and Ricardo

    April 27, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Yolanda and I met in Lima Peru for a conference on Ciclovías Recreactivas - Sunday Parkways, I think in 2012. At the time, she was one of the architects of Mexico City’s Ciclovías. And she was a blast! We maintained contact through FB over the years. In the last year we started having Zoom calls so Yolanda could practice her English and I could practice my Spanish.

    She graciously offered to take Sheryl and I out to the forest near her home for a hike. There we met Ricardo, her handsome and very interesting (in a good way) husband, and Navi, their friendly dog. (See my selfie with her). Navi is for Feliz Navidad - and she is one happy puppy. We were up about 3000 meters (or 9800 feet) at the Desierto de los Leones National Park. It is neither a desert nor home to lions. Desert is for how wild it is, and Leones is for the former owner.

    This national park was the site of a former monastery where men would live solitary lives in their modest stone houses sparsely situated throughout the park. Those crazy Christians. Ricardo walks Navi up here nearly every day. It was a somewhat steep climb at times and the altitude didn’t help. We probably walked for about 3 hours.

    Ricardo’s English is very, very good and he and Sheryl talked all the way up and all the way down. Yolanda’s English isn’t as good, but I know what she is saying. We mostly spoke in Spanish about a whole host of topics. I have to say, I was thrilled that my Spanish held up. Pablo, my Spanish teacher would be proud.

    After our hike, they took us to a very traditional Mexican lunch place where we ate tacos, and other tasty morsels. The flavours are soooo different from Mexican food you usually get in Victoria and even in Portland. Moles, salsas, mushrooms, beans, chicken and lamb on delicious corn tortillas.

    We went back to Yolanda and Ricardo’s beautiful home for some tea and more conversation. They live in what I would call a rural area. The inside was as charming as the outside. We ended up spending the entire day with them sitting out on their roofed patio. It was so wonderful. They participate in a poetry workshop with friends once a month as well as a movie group also once a month. It sounded delightful. I do hope they can get to Victoria to visit with us sometime soon.
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  • CDMX Ciclovia Recreativa!
    Ciclovia Recreativa!Lots of participants43 Students Missing since 2014Remembrance of Indigenous Women in Mexican HistoryCrowded Church along the routeAnother beautiful buildingSuperheroesRevolutionary Plaza during CicloviaBotanical Garden in Chapultepec ParkSheryl taking a breakOr you could go both ways.Danza de Los VoladoresModern Art MuseumClever peep hole to view another paintingMurciélago - Bat sculptures

    Day Three - Ciclovía and More

    April 28, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Ciclovia RecreActiva! CDMX. We picked up our Bici bikeshare bikes nearly right outside our door and hopped on the Plaza Reforma. This is a hugely wide street with sculptures, grand circles with fountains and statues. Everyone was out riding, running, taking exercise classes. It was super fun to be out on a bike in the middle of the city.

    For those of you who aren’t familiar with Ciclovia RecreActivas, cities all across Latin America close kilometers upon kilometers of major roadways for people to bike, walk, run, skate, exercise and generally get moving with their families and friends. Held every Sunday morning usually from around 7am to 2pm, cars seem to be nonplused by it all - it’s only a few hours on Sunday and you can still cross.

    Mexico City has done a great job putting in bike lanes and these median walkways/bikeways. Most provide a canopy of tree cover. Bici bikes are everywhere, and they look to be well maintained and well used. The bus system works pretty well too. It only costs $8 pesos or about 50 cents US (65 cents CDN). It can be a little tricky finding which bus services which stop, but people are generally quite nice and helpful.

    Along the route we encountered some interesting political posters and installations. It was 10 years ago that 43 Mexican students were kidnapped and killed although only three bodies have been found and identified. It is believed they were taken by the local police and drug cartels in collusion with the Mexican army. You can find posters with the students’ faces posted on walls and here in the middle of the major street we pedaled on. I heard about this when I was in Peru for the Ciclovia conference in 2015 or 2016 - I can’t remember. We also saw an installation about indigenous feminists.

    Along the route we wandered into a market with a couple dozen booths that had toys - most were superhero stuff - costumes and figurines. Now that is a big thing here. Lucha Libre, which is a part of Mexico’s rich cultural heritage, is the origin of professional wrestling, He wears an iconic mask and costume. Pretty fun. We also happened upon a very packed church with many followers waiting to get in to worship. Not sure what it was about.

    After a couple hours riding around, we went over to the big park nearby, Chapultepec, that houses the botanical garden and some museums. As we were walking over to the Modern Art Museum we saw these four men in traditional costumes, one playing a recorder and drum flying upside down on high in a circle! Yes. We googled it as there weren’t any explanations. The ritual is called the Danza de los Voladores (Dance of the Flyers). It is very old and is said to have been a plea to the gods during droughts. It was quite amazing.

    We didn’t feel like getting into the enormous Anthropology Museum, so we opted for the more manageable Modern Art Museum there in the park. On Sundays many museums are free so that was good. I have to say, this museum was fantastic. Incredibly well laid out, excellent curation of pieces and wonderful stories they told. It was also a modest size so we could actually enjoy all five sections without getting overwhelmed.

    A good day.
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  • La Condesa

    April 28, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I wrote this in Spanish first and then checked it in English and then back to Spanish. You can see from the English that the translation below that it is a bit odd. That is what you get with translation apps….

    Nos quedamos en el barrio de la Condesa. Nos encanta. Hoy había un mercado justo enfrente de nuestro departamento. Compramos verduras, frutas, y deliciosos tamales ricos. Los precios son más caros que en otros barrios, pero tres zanahorias cuestan cinco pesos – o casi 80 centavos USD. Seis tamales, tres tamales de pollo y tres tamales de mole con pollo cuestan cien pesos (casi 6 dólares USD). Y la gente es muy amable. No son muy agresivos en los mercados.

    Anoche cenamos en el restaurante de abajo de nuestro departemento llamado Lardo. Comí un conejo con fideos muy ricos. Es mi carne favorita en el mundo. La salsa y la carne tenían el sabor exactamente como me gustan. Antes de comer los fideos, compartimos burrata con ciruelas con pan sin gluten. Sheryl no puede comer nada con gluten. El queso era exquisito – suave, sabroso, y rico. La combinación de queso y ciruela era perfecta – dulce, cremosa, y fresca.

    Hay muchos restaurantes y comida callejera cerca. Encontramos una tienda con pollo rostizado, frijoles, arroz, verduras en escabeche, tacos de cerdo, y más. El primer día, comí un churro con canela. Era crujiente, dulce, y no tan grasiento. Como dije, voy a engordar en este viaje.

    Hemos caminado horas y horas por las calles viendo tiendas, arte, murales, arboles, parques, arquitectura, y la gente. Siempre la gente. Aquí en La Condesa y en los barrios que hemos visitado, hay mexicanos que tienen mucho dinero o hay muchos turistas. Sheryl dijo que se parece a Recoleta, un barrio de Buenos Aires que habíamos visitado hace 10 años o más. Hemos visto algunos vagabundos en las calles, pero sólo dos o tres. Estoy seguro de que otros barrios tienen mucho más y muchos trabajadores sin los recursos que la gente tiene aquí.

    Nuestro departamento es muy cómodo. Tenemos dos cuartos, dos baños, una sala de estar, comedor, cocina, un cuarto de lavado, y una vista desde los dos balcones de del séptimo piso. Tiene seguridad en el vestíbulo y dos ascensores. Tiene todo lo que necesitamos. Nos hemos mudado totalmente. Todas nuestras cosas están en todas las habitaciones. Nos quedaremos aquí por ocho noches. Con todo lo que podemos hacer cerca de aquí, podríamos quedarnos muchos días más. Vamos a tener que volver a la ciudad otra vez.

    *******************

    Primero escribí esto en español y luego lo revisé en inglés y luego volví al español. Se puede ver en la traducción en inglés que se muestra a continuación que es un poco extraña. Eso es lo que obtienes con las aplicaciones de traducción…

    We are located in the neighborhood of La Condesa. We love it. Today there was a market directly in front of our apartment. We bought vegetables, fruit, and delicious tamales. Prices are more expensive than other neighborhoods, but three carrots cost five pesos — or nearly 80 cents. Six tamales, three chicken tamales, and three mole and chicken tamales cost 100 pesos (almost $6). And the people are very friendly. They are not very aggressive in the markets.

    Last night we had dinner at the restaurant below our apartment called Lardo. I ate very tasty rabbit with noodles. It's my favorite meat in the world. The sauce and meat tasted exactly the way I like it. Before eating the noodles, we shared burrata with plums with gluten-free bread. Sheryl can't eat anything with gluten. The cheese was exquisite – soft, flavorful, and rich. The combination of cheese and plum was perfect – sweet, creamy, and fresh.

    There are many restaurants and street food nearby. We found a store with rotisserie chicken, beans, rice, pickled vegetables, pork tacos, and more. On the first day, I had a churro with cinnamon. It was crunchy, sweet, and not so greasy. Like I said, I'm going to get fat on this trip.

    We have walked hours and hours on the streets seeing shops, art, murals, trees, parks, architecture, and people. Always the people. Here in La Condesa and the neighborhoods we've visited, there are Mexicans who have a lot of money or there are a lot of tourists. Sheryl said it looks like Recoleta, a neighborhood in Buenos Aires that we had visited 10 years ago or more. We have seen a few vagrants in the streets, but only two or three. I'm sure other neighborhoods have a lot more and a lot of workers without the resources that people have here.

    Our apartment is very comfortable. We have two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a living room, dining room, kitchen, a laundry room, and a view from the two seventh-floor balconies. It has security in the lobby and two elevators. It has everything we need. We have totally moved in. All of our stuff is in every room. We will stay here for eight nights. With all that we can do near here, we could stay many more days. We're going to have to come back.
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  • Pyramid of the Sun - the largest

    Teotihuacán

    April 29, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We hemmed and hawed about whether we should get out of the city to go see these ruins. We were not disappointed. The massive pyramids, sculptures and murals that have survived for nearly 2000 years did impress. We walked and climbed up and down the very steep steps although not the three pyramids themselves. My quads will complain for the next couple of days.

    There is not much to say except it was fascinating and we are really glad we made this bus trip. If you are thinking of going, don’t bother with a guide - there are lots of plaques and information kiosks with what you are looking at. You can also pause to take in the sights at your own pace.
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  • Soumaya Museum
    Tiled mural from Diego RiveraThe other sideSelection of a Diego Rivera mural drawing of Frida Kahlo1950s Promotional image for Mexican cultureBlonde, blue-eyed Mary and Jesus..."Doll House"Old TelephonesNew telephonesThe artist was jailed for this caricature of politiciansOutside the Jumex MuseumWalkway, railway, bikewayTree artCracked from an earthquake

    Day Five - La Condesa Market and Polanco

    April 30, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Right outside our door was a wonderful three-block food market. We hurried over to the tamale stand that Sheryl had read about and bought six before she ran out. We also filled up on some fruits and veggies. Nice start to the day.

    We went up to the Soumaya Museum. The architecture of it is sparkling outside and holds 4 floors each successively smaller accessed by a circular ramp all the way up. It houses an extraordinary one-person/family’s collection of art steeped in Mexican cultural heritage as well as of technological progress. I loved the large array of telephones from the wooden kind with a crank to the modern brick cellphone. The top floor was devoted to primarily bronze sculptures that I don’t seem to have taken a picture of. I guess I was so taken, I forgot. I highly recommend this free museum.

    Across the street was the Jumex Museum. We didn’t go in but the sculpture outside was ginormous! This neighbourhood, Polanco, is quite posh. The coffee shops and shops charge premium prices for everything. It was pretty though. They have a really nice rails to trails with a separated bikeway and walkway. It didn’t look like the railway was operational, but the rails were still there.

    We finally used the bus system. It was good. Fairly easy and very frequent - 5-minute headways. Walking behind the bus station, we saw evidence of an earthquake that split the sidewalk and up a very old wall. The earthquake thing here is kinda scary. They happen not infrequently. The story is that earthquakes happen in September - or at least the last three big ones have been in September. Hmmmm.
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  • University mural
    My favoriteThat is the same glass of wine - we shared

    May Day - University and San Angel

    May 1, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Today is May Day! And the public museums which are many, are closed. We went down to the University (UNAM) to see the tiled and some painted murals on the campus. The size and scale of these storied murals tell again the history and Mexican perspective. There was a small “encampment”, but it had nothing to do with Gaza. They were protesting some other atrocity and missing person(s) in Mexico.

    We stumbled across the Museo del Carmen located in the San Angel district. As a private museum or really a convent, it was open. We were able to go from room to room exploring how these nuns lived and this less than austere building. I guess poverty does not mean without beauty in this instance.

    We wanted to visit the home that Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo shared - with a walkway in between the two separate buildings, but they are doing a major renovation. They would be rolling over in their graves if they could see this very wealthy neighbourhood that their home now is situated in.

    Before we headed home, we stopped for a lovely (giant) glass of Mexican white wine. It was quite delicious. It tasted like a sauvignon blanc. Estoy muy contenta.
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  • Coyoacán Centro
    Leo Trotsky through the agesLeo Trotsky homeIconic Mexican sculptureMuseo de Arte PopularFamous ceramic artistElephant skeleton covered with tiny beadworkElephant beadwork detailFabric artFabric art detailMore extraordinary beadworkYouthful Frida KahloBody castHer bed with the mirror aboveDiego Rivera studio space with his paintsFrog pond

    Day Seven - Coyoacán

    May 2, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We bussed down to a new neighbourhood today, Coyoacán. Gail and I will be staying here for six nights later in our trip. What a pretty town square and shops. First stop was the Leo Trotsky home. While he was briefly Frida Kahlo’s lover, his history is brutal. His troops were stationed away from the front lines to capture and kill any Russian soldier who tried to escape. His home displays his personal life, office and a good history of his involvement and then escape from Stalin’s wrath (although not successfully as he was killed in Mexico City by Stalin’s henchmen). In any case, it was a great spot to visit.

    Next we visited a Mexican cultural arts museum. The items were considered “craft” which is usually reserved for women’s art. Ceramics, textiles, beadwork demonstrated incredible artistry and skill - and a bit of whimsy too. I loved the giant elephant covered with seed-beads. This was an homage to the Africans living in Mexico. It was unclear if this was about slavery or just diaspora. It seems like there is a concerted effort to celebrate the rich indigenous heritage here.

    We found a taco place to die for. All over Mexico City tacos are the main show. The trick is to only eat at the ones that are busy with customers - they know what is good. Since all the tortillas are made just with corn, Sheryl can eat them all and she has.

    Next stop were the lines for the Frida Kahlo family home. There were scant examples of her artwork except drawings on her body casts and prosthetic legs. They had her bed with the mirror above so she could paint/draw her self-portraits. I didn’t realize that in addition to her catastrophic trolley crash that impaled her body, she also had polio as a child. It is a miracle she lived. Like many homes, she and her family had a beautiful central garden allowing airflow and privacy from the street. It was pretty packed as museums go. It’s not a very large house and the narratives were detailed. If you were patient enough, it was super fun and informative.

    Tomorrow, we head over to the historic center of Mexico City where we will spend three nights with Gail Gabler. Can’t wait!
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  • Centro Historico de Mexico City

    May 3, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    This morning, Sheryl and I arrived at our 10th floor apartment to discover that the building is under renovation/reconstruction for major earthquake damage. We are hoping that the earth stays still for our stay. We had a scheduled murals tour at noon, so we unpacked and headed out.

    Oscar took us first to the Diego Rivera Museum which is really just one mural. It is one heck of a mural - it is a very detailed history lesson of Mexico. He took us through all the leaders, personalities and meanings of each of the subjects depicted. Of course, as it is Rivera, the subjects are about class struggles and political corruption. Mexico is thick with both. If you make it to Mexico City, please do hire yourself a guide who can tell you what you are looking at. It was fascinating.

    Next stop were the murals in the Museo de Bellas Artes. Here you see the three main artists that dominated the murals movement: Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco and David Alfaro Siqueiros. Each had iconic and gorgeous murals here. They each used their canvasses to express themes of Mexican stories and history. Again, the explanations and stories told by our guide were invaluable in helping us really enjoy/love these immense works.

    Diego Rivera’s most prominent mural was originally designed as a commission from the Rockefellers in New York. It prominently displayed Lenin as a hero. Rockefeller paid Rivera for his time and then destroyed it completely. My question is, What were they thinking? It was going to be bunch of flowers and butterflies? In any case, he redid the mural here in Mexico City with an addition of Rockefeller on the “evils” side of the mural. Again, this mural is full of recognizable characters and highly political meaning.

    Don’t miss these murals if you do come here.

    Gail arrived this afternoon with some Mexican pesos from some trip she took back in the 1980s. They were 1,000- and 10,000-peso notes. Well, sometime in the 1990s these bills were devalued by removing the last 3 digits, so instead of 23,000 pesos, we were looking at 23 - or about a buck fifty USD. We were off to a good start with a big laugh.
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  • Alameda Park
    Post Office - where bought stampsAnother ChurchCoffee Roasting Cafe VillaríasPalacio de Bellas ArtesWire sculptures that make letters with their shadowsPedestrian streetThe ZocaloAnother churchRuins discovered right in townSan Idelfonso MuralSan Ildefonso muralQuinceñera storesView from our rooftop

    Centro Historico - Day Two

    May 4, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Gail wanted to see the murals at Bellas Artes, and we wanted to see the other collections there. On our way, as is our way, we stopped in to look at a church or two. I often don’t take many shots as I’m not all that excited about them. I find the glorification of the death of Christ hanging on the cross a gruesome sight. A few of the churches spend more of their art/altar space reserved for the good works of Jesus instead.

    Before heading over the museum, Sheryl had read about this really cool coffee roaster that was started by two refugees from the Spanish Civil War. If you are so inclined, you can read about the history of the family and their journeys as refugees in Spain, France and finally in Mexico. https://cafevillarias.com/historia.html It is in Spanish, but with the magic of the internet, you can translate it.

    Bellas Artes did not disappoint. There was one exhibit that I really loved. The artist had taken his mom’s cursive handwriting and created metal sculptures that when hung with a light above, showed in shadow her alphabet. There was no way to see that the sculptures would create these shadows without a good long look.

    We walked along the impossibly crowded pedestrian streets to the Zocalo. It is the center square in this Centro Histórico of Mexico City. It was fun to see all the shops that sold, well, everything. I like how the bathroom fixture shops were all clumped together and the lighting places, and other household goods were organized along specific blocks. It certainly makes shopping and bargain hunting convenient.

    Just next to the Zocalo archeologists discovered some amazing ruins from the peoples who lived here - like the ruins at Teotehuacán. Everyone I talked to about visiting Mexico talked about the Templo Mayor - and this was it. It seems that the Spanish over the centuries made it a habit to deconstruct the buildings and temples of the people to use the materials to build their own colonial buildings. This was one of the few not completely destroyed.

    What was on our agenda the whole day was going to San Ildefonso. It is a building covered with beautiful murals. Again, it didn’t disappoint. Having had a bit of a history lesson from the other murals, I was able to understand much more of what I was seeing and what the symbols and characters meant. This one was a keeper.

    We walked back to the apartment and there was a whole row of shops selling Quinceañera dresses. They were spectacular! Cinderella-worthy confections. A couple of the stores had young women modelling the dresses outside and calling for folks to come into the stores. Not something you see in Canada or the US.

    After dinner we decided to explore the advertised roof deck on our building. As they were doing all kinds of repairs from the last earthquake, the building security didn’t want us up there. But we had time to get in a gorgeous city-scape sunset. Another great day.
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  • Library facade
    Flying booksCoyoacán!Frida and Diego hanging out

    Library and then Coyoacán

    May 6, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Gail and I decided (with Sheryl’s help) to spend our last morning in the Historic Center to visit the library. It looks like an old, ornate church from the outside. Once you get in, the entirety of the walls, some 10 meters (30 feet) high were painted with, you guessed it, murals. Again, they were steeped in historical and political references plus had some great descriptors along the walls. And it was a library. There were several folks there reading what looked like old newspapers and doing research. Fascinating.

    Afterwards, we went on down to Coyoacán, a lovely neighbourhood south of the city center. Sheryl and I had spent one day here in our time together I was excited to return to spend more time.

    This is the cranky part of the trip. We got there early check in and found the previous guests’ bags there - unsecured. That was surprising. Had anything gone missing, we would have been on the hook for it. The cleaner arrived as we got there, so we asked her to clean the bedroom with a door lock - so we could secure our own bags. We also put away a full bag of groceries into the fridge - which the cleaner promptly threw out including a couple of my personal containers. The host was not very helpful - it was a misunderstanding???

    We went out and got more groceries for our breakfasts and such. We discovered the next morning that the cleaner had turned off the fridge too. Our stuff was barely cool. And the WiFi didn’t work. And we couldn’t get the washing machine to work. We called the host (again), and she showed up an hour later to fix things up. Some instructions would have been helpful here. The washing machine still didn’t drain the water, so we just had the clothes in the dryer for 2 hours…

    The big thing was the ants. Every time we went to pull any food out, the ants came charging over to see what was for dinner. The host said she would get some ant traps which she didn’t do. There were a bunch of other things like the dishes (metal) couldn’t go in the microwave, there was only one wash cloth and one dish towel, and no bath soap. The location was great, and it had two bedrooms and a pure water spigot. We muddled through. We got a refund of at least one night and maybe more.

    Coyoacán is a beautiful and less touristy area. We went out and did a bit of exploration around the markets and squares. We have nearly a week to play here.
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  • Anahuacalli Museo in Coyoacán

    May 7, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Gail wanted to connect with some folks who she knew in Mexico City, so I was on my own for the day. After my cranky morning dealing with the AirBnB host, I walked over to the Anahuacalli Museum. It was a lovely 50-minute walk through a working neighbourhood. Lots of busy people getting on with their day. It was fun to be so completely out of a touristed area for a bit.

    The museum itself is quite amazing. It is constructed from volcanic rock to mirror the construction of the pyramids and architecture of the indigenous peoples. It also had some more “modern” art deco elements. It was designed by Diego Rivera and a famous architect at the time to house the enormous collection of antiquities that Rivera had amassed over the years. They were exquisite pieces that I’m not quite sure how they could have survived undamaged over the hundreds if not thousands of years.

    I got a chance to talk with a couple of the museum guards/staff who were very knowledgeable and solicitous - wanting to share what they knew about the art, architecture and history of the place. I was delighted. There is a deep sense of pride and joy that they shared. It was another opportunity for me to use my Spanish.

    That evening, Gail and I walked the square and discovered a group of folks engaged in a public ceremony/celebration/worship of dancing and drumming. It was not for money or for tourists. It looked like they were having fun. What a great way to end the day.
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  • Long day in Coyoacán

    May 8, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Gail and I decided to take a walking tour through the neighbourhood curated by my guidebook. It was one of those walks that says you can do it in 2 or so hours - but that is not if you actually look at the places. We started at the furthest spot, Viveros Park. The park wasn’t much to look at, but it gave us the opportunity to stroll through the neighbourhood looking at houses and trees. This city certainly prioritizes trees.

    First stop was the Fonoteca Nacional. They had several rooms filled with posters with illustrations representing different traditional Mexican songs. This is one of the 150 museums of Mexico City, and this one was to capture the rich and varied musical repertoire of Mexico. I wish I had thought to google the songs at the time. I added two links to the photos below. Enjoy.

    Next up, the guided tour said to take a look at a supposedly haunted alleyway. Well, not much goin’ on here. It was a nice detour through some narrow streets and old homes. For security and maybe privacy too, the perimeter walls are impossibly tall, and some edged with glass and barbed wire. It is pretty normal here but jarring to see.

    We stopped at the Plaza Santa Catarina for a bite to eat and rest a minute. It was starting to get hot. There was a community center across the street, Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Herales. What a lovely and unexpected oasis. There was a beautiful oil painting exhibit to view. But this was not a space just for spectators. There were offices, classrooms for weaving, a choir practice, and a bunch of other opportunities to learn and create. There is a nice coffee shop in the back that we didn’t take advantage of, but it seemed like a peaceful spot to spend an hour catching up with a friend.

    We wended our way back to the two main squares. It seems I have approached these squares from different directions and always feel a little surprised to happen upon them. There are so many things to observe and so many vantage points, each visit seems both new and familiar.

    After dinner at the house, Gail had spotted a bar along the square that hosted musicians. We were ready for some tasty adult beverages (fruity margarita for Gail, gin and tonic for me) with a good dose of Mexican live music. The band was great. We were also treated to a “performance” by a lovely couple who just had to dance. They were having a blast, as were we.
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  • In the Jardín Centenario - Iconic
    Fabric artBeaded sculptureHanging stage displayMore fabric artArt honouring birth and midwiferyFree bikes?

    Day 4 in Coyoacán

    May 9, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    So, we only finished half of the walking tour yesterday. It seems around every corner there is something more delightful than before. Today we returned to a couple of places I had already visited with Sheryl. No importa. I loved going again.

    Our apartment was half a block from the Casa de la Malinche. The story is that when the conquistador Cortes made his way to the Mexico City area, he had either taken her as his slave or married this indigenous woman who helped him both navigate his way and then aided him is his conquests. Hence her name, Malinche or traitor. She is universally reviled and depicted in several of the murals we saw. One can never really be sure of her position as willing or unwilling partner.

    We returned to the Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares. https://museoculturaspopulares.gob.mx/ Even though I had visited just last week, I was still so struck by the artistry and vibrant colours of the beadwork, fibre arts, and clay sculptures. They had added an exhibit that was about the role and wisdom of mid-wives that are practicing today in Mexico City. It has always struck me that the most magnificent thing that humans do is to create new life. There is scant art and glorification of this noble, arduous, loving, powerful act of creation. Don’t get me started on the “we’re pregnant” thing.

    Last time I was here, they were setting up to begin the tourist season with booths selling art, crafts, and jewelry. The work was amazing. Gail got gifts for each of her kids here - one more perfect than the next. It was as if Gail divined them to be here. A gorgeous black and white snake necklace and earrings for Alexis; Jeremy, the chef, got a volcanic rock mortar and pestle; and for Jordan, a coyote figurine that doubled as a whistle with a dolorous sound. I got myself a beautiful pair of earrings. Couldn’t resist.

    Gail really wanted to see the Leon Trotsky house, so we walked to the edge of the Coyoacán neighbourhood and went in. I had read much of the history panels already - but there is always more to read and reread. I also got a better look at all the bookshelves. Trotsky was not a meticulous fellow. His series books were not kept in order, and he was missing several editions. He also had some in upside down? I’m sure this was not the work of a museum curator. Who would put books in the wrong order and all cattywampus?

    Many museums and art spaces here have these very detailed history calendars. They often include what was going on in Mexico and then all over the world at the same time. This includes pre-colonial times too. The Cultural Populares museum had a calendar of the colours that were used in pottery as they were in fashion or as they discovered how to use different elements of plants, bugs, and minerals to create new colours. The Soumaya Museum had another timeline that filled a long corridor ramp that led to the top floor. Super interesting. I have learned soooo much on this trip.
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  • Cuicuilco Pyramid
    At CuicuilcoLava tubeBi-headed snakeAt the topRandom street artContemporary Art Museum Puddle PicBeatriz González take on GuernicaGonzález - GriefGonzález - GriefDrapes!ArtOne piece of paper, no cutsOne piece of paper, no cutsDatabase old-schoolUNAM buildingThe encampmentYou tell 'em, Gail.

    Cuicuilco, Unam, and Frida Kahlo Park

    May 10, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Today we went south to ancient ruins a bus ride away. Called Cuicuilco, https://lugares.inah.gob.mx/es/zonas-arqueologi…; it was different than any of the other ruins we have seen. The pyramid was actually round. And it was surrounded by some volcanic tubes and flows and forest. I stupidly didn’t bring my binoculars with me (and I bet Gail was glad as I would have spent way too much time figuring out the birds I was looking at - that will be for my last day.) I believe we were the only people visiting this spot on a Friday morning. They had a little museum (of course) to help us understand what we were looking at.

    The history of the place is that the nearby Xitle volcano erupted in about 250 AD, covering much of the area with lava. Many of the inhabitants made their way over to Teotihuacán to live. It wasn’t very picturesque with tall buildings and busy streets/highways all around the site, but the significance of their resilience was evident.

    Next up was a bus ride up to the National University of Mexico or UNAM. First stop was the Museum of Contemporary Art https://muac.unam.mx/. Gail isn’t much of a fan of contemporary art, so I went through on my own while Gail suffered through with a tall, chocolate milk shake. Pobrecita! There were about five or six different artist retrospectives including Beatriz González. Her work was so moving. She had a fairly unique outlook on her work and what she was trying to convey. A real treat.

    We headed up to the area just north of UNAM to get some (delicious) tacos. And then walked down to the main campus. There we spied the newly erected encampment supporting Gaza and just a huge amount of graffiti covering the buildings. The protest/encampment seemed peaceful although pretty small. The graffiti was shameful. It covered some of the art and architectural features.

    We decided to head into the library because there was supposed to be an origami exhibit! I was not disappointed. These were some very intricate and exquisite specimens of paper craft. During my first time in Portland Oregon back in the early 80s, I worked late into the evening canvassing. I was staying at a woman’s home (I’m sorry I can’t remember her name), but she had a normal 9 to 5 job. So, by the time I got home, I had a couple/few hours at the end of the day to wind down. Quietly. I took up origami. Mine were complicated but nothing like these. Made me happy to see such artistry from one single, uncut piece of paper.

    After a couple of bus mishaps, we decided to visit the Frida Kahlo Park which was not more than a two-minute walk from our apartment. It was small and pretty. We tried to have a conversation with Diego and Frida who were hanging out in the garden. They were congenial if a little stiff.
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  • Chapultepec Castle
    I think this is Pancho VillaIndigenous "Royalty"Anthropology Museum

    Day 6 in Chapultepec Park

    May 11, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    This is my last day with Gail… She is a fantastic travelling companion. She has a real commitment to joy that is a must for exploring. We decided to spend much of the day in Chapultepec Park before Gail went to visit with family later in the afternoon. Sheryl and I had done lots in the park but not the castle and the Anthropology Museum.

    Chapultepec Castile was built atop important Aztec ceremonial grounds (of course). It is the top of the hill. We slogged our way up and up and up. We were rewarded with a spectacular view of the park and city as well as another history lesson. You got your murals, your paintings, your statues of heroes and villains. What is clear is that Mexican history is full of wars. Fighting the French, British, and each faction, and factions of factions. Pancho Villa and Zapata were allies at one point and then enemies. I, frankly, can’t keep it all straight. I’m kind of ok with that. I will need another visit to try to get a better understanding of what happened and why and who were the revolutionary figures that actually helped the people and who were not. Next trip.

    One story about a painting below. The colonists understood hierarchy and “royalty”, so they commissioned a painting depicting the chiefs from the various communities that were cooperative/useful to the colonialists. They look like stately gentlemen in their traditional garb and headdresses. To be sure, as soon as their usefulness was no longer needed, I’m sure they were disposed of like the rest of the indigenous peoples.

    In the afternoon, I went on my own to the Anthropology Museum. I soothed my aching feet with a tasty lunch and mental break. While it seems that we are doing a ton of stuff, I do feel like we have had the time to also wander and wonder. I’m physically tired but mentally and emotionally recharged.

    I started at the beginning and zipped right through the rudimentary evolutionary lesson of man and the planet. From there, the museum was organized in chronological order by civilizations. It wasn’t until I reached maybe the 4th or 5th room where there were any artifacts depicting women. These were from the Veracruz area and were remarkable. Again, description after description spoke of the constant war that pervaded - it seems pre- and post-colonialism were marked by unending violent conflict. Can we imagine what our world would be like without armed enemies always present?

    I couldn’t possibly make it through the entire museum. It is ginormous. I took an Uber back to the apartment and ate some tasty leftovers. Gail arrived back with her belly full of homemade pozole (jealous) and some stories. She finished packing for her flight tomorrow. So, we were both leaving the house at 6am. Time to sleep.
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  • Rafael Calderón Parra and me
    Tlalpan ForestBlack-crowned Night-Herson

    Birding with Rafa

    May 12, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    For my birthday in March, Sheryl got me to most fantastic new pair of binoculars. It is a completely different experience. I can see EVERYTHING! The birds magically appear in my binoculars and the colours are clear and vibrant. It makes birding so much easier and a real pleasure.

    I scheduled a six-hour birding trip to see birds of the forest and lakes with this organization IHUITL (pronunciation: EE-weetl) a word of Náhuatl origin meaning "feather." The organization combines science, art and culture - including birding tours. I do love the idea of supporting this kind of group. Here is the link if you are interested - it can be in English or Spanish. https://www.ihuitl.com

    Rafael picked me up at 6am just as Gail’s taxi arrived to take her to the airport for her next adventure in Guatemala. I will miss her. As I was in Spanish mode, I just started talking with Rafa in Spanish and continued for the whole of the tour. With a few vocabulary words, constant mis-gendering, and probably some stumbling verb conjugations, it was easy to communicate. This is why I have spent so much time studying. There is a sense of freedom and connection that I feel I have speaking Spanish here.

    We went south to the Bosque de Tlalpan (Tlalpan Forest). The park was busy with runners and folks out enjoying some exercise to start their Mother’s Day. The parkland, like everything south, is made up of volcanic rock. It makes for some interesting tree and shrub cover as well as nice birding habitat. The altitude and hilly terrain made for some huffing and puffing - but I was able to keep up.

    Next, we went to Xochimilco Ecological Park. Here we saw all kinds of water birds, herons, egrets, ducks and even some pelicans. They also had a nice demonstration garden showing how the indigenous peoples farmed the land back in the day. I like water birds - they don’t flit from branch to branch, and they are generally pretty big. IDing them is much easier.

    Rafa got me back to my apartment just after noon. He was off to go to his brother’s house to celebrate Mother’s Day with his family. Rafa let me know how wonderful it was for him to be able to do the tour in Spanish. Usually he does them in English - being able to speak in his own language, gave him (and me) the opportunity to converse beyond just pointing, identifying and talking “bird” the whole time. It was a wonderful way to enjoy my last day in Mexico City.

    I added 25 new birds to my “life list” - birds that I hadn’t IDed before. Here are the birds we saw (and heard):

    American Coot
    American Robin
    American White Pelican
    Barn Swallow
    Berylline Hummingbird
    Bewick's Wren (mexicanus Group)
    Black-and-white Warbler
    Black-backed Oriole
    Black-crowned Night Heron (American)
    Black-headed Grosbeak
    Blue Grosbeak
    Blue Mockingbird
    Broad-billed Hummingbird
    Bronzed Cowbird
    Bushtit (melanotis Group)
    Canyon Towhee
    Canyon Wren
    Cassin's Kingbird
    Chipping Sparrow
    Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer
    Common Gallinule
    Common Yellowthroat
    Curve-billed Thrasher
    Elegant Euphonia
    Great Egret
    Great-tailed Grackle
    Green Heron
    Hepatic Tanager
    Hooded Yellowthroat
    House Finch
    House Sparrow
    Inca Dove
    Killdeer
    Ladder-backed Woodpecker
    Laughing Gull
    Lesser Goldfinch
    Mexican Duck
    Monk Parakeet
    Mourning Dove
    Northern Beardless-Tyrannulet
    Olive Warbler
    Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush
    Pied-billed Grebe
    Red-winged Blackbird
    Rivoli's Hummingbird
    Rose-throated Becard
    Ruddy Duck
    Rufous-backed Robin
    Rufous-capped Warbler
    Rufous-crowned Sparrow
    Rusty-crowned Ground-Sparrow
    Snowy Egret
    Song Sparrow (mexicana Group)
    Tricolored Heron
    Vermilion Flycatcher
    Violet-crowned Hummingbird
    Warbling Vireo
    Western Flycatcher (Cordilleran)
    Western Wood-Pewee
    White-eared Hummingbird
    White-faced Ibis
    White-winged Dove
    Wilson's Warbler
    Yellow Warbler
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  • Home Again

    May 21, 2024 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    They say you need to be at the Mexico City airport 3 hours before your flight. I got picked up at 3:15am and was through security and at the gate before the hour was up. Ug. I could have used another hour of sleep - but you never know with international airports.

    Looking back on my trip, I’m pretty happy. I drowned myself in art, good food, rich culture and history, and excellent company. I got to see my family and spend some quality vacation time with Sheryl, Sheryl and Gail together, and then Gail alone. Reviewing my photos and narrative, I am just so grateful that I am able to do this. And thanks for coming along with me.

    Upon coming home, I pledged to myself to partake in the rich culture here in Victoria. I find it is necessary and something easy to fall by the wayside. To that end, since I have been back this week, I went to a cello concert and then a play with an art exhibit in the lobby, took a walk with a friend, had dinners with two other couples, and settled back home. Feeling lucky.
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    Trip end
    May 16, 2024