A warm-up trip across the ditch to Australia, before the long haul and first couple of months in Deutschland... Read more
  • 2footprints
  • 2countries
  • 85days
  • 16photos
  • 0videos
  • 16.5kkilometers
  • Day 20

    Sydney/Nowra

    May 20, 2016 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Reeling from the Northland summer I'd just been so blessed with, I was ready for my first overseas adventure. It was May 2016, and for the next couple of weeks it was going to be sandy beaches, kookaburras, and Australians.
    I packed up my purple macpac rucksack, and took my first solo flight from Auckland to Sydney. I saw this trip as somewhat of a warm-up before the long haul.

    In Sydney I was met by my wonderful cousins, and Aunty. The Brooks had been a constant fixture throughout my entire life. They were our second cousins, and we'd spend at least one day a week with them since I was born.
    While I was in high school, they'd made the trip over to live in Sydney, which had rocked us all quite a bit. It had always been the 6 of us, 3 Brooks boys, 3 Holder kids. That all changed when they left, and when my sister had gone to uni.
    It was so good to see them again, and get to be in their house in Sydney. Even though they were in a totally different place, the house still felt like the Brooks' house. Aunty Jessie made so much delicious food while I was there, most memorably for me a homemade mango ice cream that blew my socks off.

    Their neighbourhood, Beecroft, was leafy and tropical, and their housing complex even had a tennis court and pool. It felt like being on holiday at a resort. They took me out to eat all over the city, to their favourite spots. I couldn't believe how far they were willing to drive, or rather, how much traffic they were willing to sit in, to get to a good place to eat.

    I then took the train down to Bomaderry, where Kia came to pick me up. Kia was the beautiful Australian friend I'd made whilst working at the Ahipara Holiday Park. I'd heard so much about her neck of the woods here, it was so exciting to come and visit. Huge change of scene from my cousins and Sydney.
    She lived with her parents in a gorgeous little beach town, across the road from a super clear estuary which meandered its way down to the ocean at a place called Huskisson.
    Their place was so crisp and sophisticated. We made prawn summer rolls and drank white wine, enjoying easeful and stimulating conversations.

    Kia took me all around over the next days, to some of the most stunning beaches. We went for a little mini surf, with her helping me catch the little waves. I loved the distinct Australian energy of the landscape. She showed me some of the whitest sand in the world.
    We went to the jetty at Huskisson, where a bunch of local boys were jumping off into the crystal clear water. At some point they all yelled to wait, and I saw the most gigantic black shadow cruising in to mosey around the wharf. An enormous stingray, I couldn't believe my eyes, or how chill they were all acting about it. Just a normality for them!

    One of the days Kia and I took paddleboards all the way up the estuary. It was such a stunning mission. We saw so many fish and various colours in the clear, life-rich water. Another day we went in her family's boat up the estuary and went past what appeared to be some kind of corporate team-building exercise with about 10 people trying to balance on a stupidly giant paddleboard. They all fell in the water, which was pretty hilarious.

    I have just such fond memories of staying with Kia. They had one of those blow-up spa pools, in which we basked at sunset, chatting and listening to music, sipping wine. I saw kangaroos poking around the front yards along the street, which excited me greatly.

    When I got back to Sydney, I caught up for a one-on-one day with Jason, the middle of the Brooks' boys. We went to Chinatown and ate some incredible dumplings, whilst talking about so many aspects of life that we couldn't talk with the others about. I felt so happy we had each other, outside of the church bubble, living lives that weren't strictly acceptable to the world we came from.

    We rented bikes and rode around the Opera House and surrounds. That was a fun mission. The Sydney Harbour really was a sight to behold.
    Eventually it was time to return to NZ. I remember the last meal with the Brooks being at a super delicious Malaysian restaurant, and I think I had nasi lemak.

    Even just this short time abroad, a taster of things to come, had had such a profound impact on me. I felt the tingling of a particular kind of freedom. One I'd fought to chase.
    And the road less travelled was about to launch me to a quaint town nestled in Southern Germany.
    Read more

  • Day 2,900

    An airbus, and a village called Neuffen

    April 8 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    The time had come. I was at Auckland Airport, with Mum, Hannah, and Alisha as my farewell party, awaiting my first solo long haul flight. Some tears were shed, but I mostly remember feeling so excited that it didn't occur to me to feel sad.
    A year didn't seem long enough anyway.
    I boarded my Emirates flight, direct to Dubai. Lucky me had booked a window seat with 2 empties beside me. Very convenient for the 18 hour non-stop journey.
    God I love this feeling. Walking into an airplane at night, each seat all ready and waiting with a blanket and pillow, the lights dim, the rows slowly filling with people all excited for their travels, getting settled in.

    I found my seat, and got all my things ready to feel as cosy as possible. I'd brought pyjamas, a pair of comfy socks, my journal, a scarf, and toiletries. It was the start of what became an important tradition for me to journal at the very start of a journey, on the flight, or bus, or ferry.
    It's genuinely crazy for me writing this now, at 27, thinking back to my 19 year old self sitting on that flight, not having a single clue what the next years would bring. Just by choosing to go on this adventure, the course of my life would be wonderfully and accordingly shaped, to mould myself into who I am today.

    I wrote my entry, and as we took off, I watched the lights of little Auckland slowly fade into the distance. The dinner they served was fantastic, some kind of stew if I remember correctly.
    After dinner I changed and went about my routine as if I were just going to bed on any normal night. I prepared the cosiest bed you could ever ask for in economy class, complete with the extra pillows and blankets, and curled up to sleep.
    After some hours I woke up and peered out the window. There were some lights way down there. I looked at the map to see we were over Australia, and a rush of excitement went through me. I was really there, hovering over the planet, moving through the air to a very far away place.
    I slept for another several hours. The next time I stirred and looked down below us, I felt a new sensation. I was looking down at lights that were laid out in a style I had never seen before. It was unlike anything I could think of.
    India. We were passing over India. This new sensation was something of a passing over a threshold. From the familiar, to that giddy excitement, to a sudden and sobering knowing, that the world I come from is but the tiniest sliver. And that I will grow to know the world beyond it and it will change me.

    All up I slept for a bit over 10 hours. Pretty unheard of when it comes to flying. I still had 8 whole hours left though.
    I found what remains one of my favourite films of all time: Unbranded, a documentary about 4 American cowboys who train wild mustangs and ride them from Mexico to Canada, through the wilderness of the mid-west.
    I must've watched other things but this was the only one I will never forget.

    Eventually the night turned into morning, and in the lead-up to landing in Dubai, they served us a delicious breakfast.
    I gawked looking out the window at the houses as we flew closer to Dubai airport. Middle Eastern mansions, desert, palm trees, pools. Truly another world.
    The airport itself too, a structural masterpiece.
    I didn't have too long to wait here. It was remarkable seeing the Arab men walking around in their robes. Everything felt very clean, bright and crisp here. It was also around 8am, so the coolest it would be for the rest of the day.

    Before long I was boarding the next flight, the 7hr to Frankfurt, in no less than an Airbus A380. Such an impressive plane, the economy seats felt like a normal plane's business class.
    I took my window seat, a distinctly different feeling in this day time setting than the long haul had been. It was hard to let it sink in, that I was in the Middle East.

    There was a free seat beside me, and a very tall young man sat down in the aisle seat. We smiled at each other, and starting chatting. Henry was from Germany, heading home after 6 months in Western Australia. He had such an impeccable accent, initially I thought he was Australian.
    There is a great word in German, which I didn't know at the time: 'sympatisch'. This is how I would've described Henry if I'd known the word. Essentially it means that you get a really good feeling about a person. Good, trustworthy, quality vibes.

    Throughout the flight we got to know each other, realised we had a lot of similar interests in the music realm, and he invited me to join him and his best friend for a festival in Berlin in a few months' time. Looking back at it now, it really was such an astounding way to form a friendship; it could've easily been one of those things that we said, yes we should totally do that, and have it amount to nothing.

    Henry became a huge part of my time in Germany! And I still consider him a friend all these years later.
    But as the flight ended, it'd be a while before we reunited, and my journey in Baden-Wurttemberg was about to begin.

    Gesine picked me up from the Frankfurt airport. It was so surreal. Absolutely delightful to see her familiar face, smiley, bubbly and warm as always! Gesine was like a mentor/friend figure to me. It was about 2pm when I arrived, and I experienced my first drive on the Autobahn, as we drove in her Volkswagen to the beautiful little village of Neuffen.

    Everything was so captivating. The architecture, the trees, just how completely different this world was. Neuffen lays nestled beside a low, forest-covered mountain range called the Schwaebische Alb. The houses had red roofs, white cladding, and all looked cosy and sturdy.
    I had the privilege of being invited to stay with Gesine at her Auntie Baerbel's house. They welcomed me so warmly into their lovely home. I can still walk through it in my mind.

    My room was a dream, with a huge window onto the balcony, and the A-frame of the ceiling giving the room a very cosy feeling.
    We had some food, and talked incessantly. Around 7pm, the jetlag hit me like a cricket bat to the face. Gesine insisted I needed to last even just one hour longer, so she dragged me out onto a walk. It was early summer there, so at that time it was still light out, with that deeply relaxing air at the end of a long warm day. We followed a gorgeous little walkway that went through some residential areas, some orchards, a bit of the forest, and paddocks.
    As we walked, we came across a shepherdess. She was a strong and beautiful woman, in her 50's, a true sheep herder. She didn't own land, rather she grazed and drove her sheep around the outskirts of the village. Her name was Annerose, and when she found out I was from New Zealand, she showed such immense excitement. Her daughter, a few years younger than me, was obsessed with NZ, and planning to visit once she finished school.
    So on this very first evening, Gesine and I made a friend. During my time in Neuffen, we had Annerose and Aline over for dinner, met up with them several times, and Aline took me to a very local party which was a fun experience.

    Jetlag wore off after the first couple of days. Gesine and I just free-flowed with our days, going for walks, hanging out with her Auntie, and introducing me to more of her family, as well as to German cuisine, and all the different shops and supermarkets. The novelty of it all meant that it really didn't matter what we were doing, it was all so interesting.

    We planned our first trip to see her brother Thomas, and his wife Judith, whose family I'd gotten to know well at Sonshine Ranch. They'd been living there as I did the outdoor leadership program after school. The kids, Nathanael, Noemi, and Joshie, were like little siblings to me by the end.
    They lived a couple of hours away, in an even smaller village called Nitzenhausen, affectionately called Nizza.

    This was such a quaint place, with very old buildings, surrounded by farmland. They were in the process of renovating the house they'd bought, a 200 yr old building, with a big barn at the back. Gesine and I were going to help them with any projects we could.
    I was so happy to see them again. It felt so familiar and easy to settle back in with the kids, playing in the barn, which had a big concreted area that we played ball games in, and rode around on the skateboard. Gesine and I were camping in the loft of the barn.

    We helped them with wallpapering, a special type they called 'tapete'. It was immensely satisfying. I was so impressed by Thomas' skills in building. Besides that, the fact that a 200 yr old property was in such good shape. It would be a very different story in NZ.
    On the days off we went for adventures. One day we went to a local river and paddled down in canoes. It was my first unfortunate encounter with stinging nettle. My whole hand was burning for hours.
    We'd play soccer on the sports field. Go swimming at the nearby lake. Noemi and I played a lot on the trampoline. She really was like my sister. We explored a nearby town and ate ice cream.

    The soccer world cup was on at the time. One evening I went by myself down to the local viewing. I was stared at, very openly. A village like this, everyone knew everyone. I stuck out like a sore thumb, but I enjoyed this experience. It became a theme of my travels, putting myself into really random situations like this. I got to see something very few tourists would!

    Gesine and I made another friend one night. We went for a beautiful evening bike ride, beside the golden fields surrounding the town. It was magical. As we arrived back into the town, before dark, we were called out to by a guy on a bike. He came boosting down towards us, with a big cheeky smile on his face. I liked his energy. He spoke very little English, but was so curious to know who we were. His name was Ele, and he reminded me of Chad, from Kaitaia. He invited me to a party if I was interested. I definitely was, but I didn't make it there.

    The time in Nizza was so enjoyable, Gesine and I really didn't want to leave! It was hard to say goodbye, but we planned to come back.
    Back in Neuffen, I made plans for some solo journeys. First stop was Switzerland, to see a few very special people.
    Read more