Kangaroos to Sheep-herders

Mayıs - Temmuz 2016
  • Izzy Holder
A warm-up trip across the ditch to Australia, before the long haul and first couple of months in Deutschland... Okumaya devam et
  • Izzy Holder

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  • Almanya Almanya
  • İsviçre İsviçre
  • Avustralya Avustralya
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Dünya gezisi, Sırt çantasıyla seyahat, Sahil, Doğa, Kendini keşfetme, Yalnız seyahat, Çalış ve Gez
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  • Sydney/Nowra

    20 Mayıs 2016, Avustralya ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Reeling from the Northland summer I'd just been so blessed with, I was ready for my first overseas adventure. It was May 2016, and for the next couple of weeks it was going to be sandy beaches, kookaburras, and Australians.
    I packed up my purple macpac rucksack, and took my first solo flight from Auckland to Sydney. I saw this trip as somewhat of a warm-up before the long haul.

    In Sydney I was met by my wonderful cousins, and Aunty. The Brooks had been a constant fixture throughout my entire life. They were our second cousins, and we'd spend at least one day a week with them since I was born.
    While I was in high school, they'd made the trip over to live in Sydney, which had rocked us all quite a bit. It had always been the 6 of us, 3 Brooks boys, 3 Holder kids. That all changed when they left, and when my sister had gone to uni.
    It was so good to see them again, and get to be in their house in Sydney. Even though they were in a totally different place, the house still felt like the Brooks' house. Aunty Jessie made so much delicious food while I was there, most memorably for me a homemade mango ice cream that blew my socks off.

    Their neighbourhood, Beecroft, was leafy and tropical, and their housing complex even had a tennis court and pool. It felt like being on holiday at a resort. They took me out to eat all over the city, to their favourite spots. I couldn't believe how far they were willing to drive, or rather, how much traffic they were willing to sit in, to get to a good place to eat.

    I then took the train down to Bomaderry, where Kia came to pick me up. Kia was the beautiful Australian friend I'd made whilst working at the Ahipara Holiday Park. I'd heard so much about her neck of the woods here, it was so exciting to come and visit. Huge change of scene from my cousins and Sydney.
    She lived with her parents in a gorgeous little beach town, across the road from a super clear estuary which meandered its way down to the ocean at a place called Huskisson.
    Their place was so crisp and sophisticated. We made prawn summer rolls and drank white wine, enjoying easeful and stimulating conversations.

    Kia took me all around over the next days, to some of the most stunning beaches. We went for a little mini surf, with her helping me catch the little waves. I loved the distinct Australian energy of the landscape. She showed me some of the whitest sand in the world.
    We went to the jetty at Huskisson, where a bunch of local boys were jumping off into the crystal clear water. At some point they all yelled to wait, and I saw the most gigantic black shadow cruising in to mosey around the wharf. An enormous stingray, I couldn't believe my eyes, or how chill they were all acting about it. Just a normality for them!

    One of the days Kia and I took paddleboards all the way up the estuary. It was such a stunning mission. We saw so many fish and various colours in the clear, life-rich water. Another day we went in her family's boat up the estuary and went past what appeared to be some kind of corporate team-building exercise with about 10 people trying to balance on a stupidly giant paddleboard. They all fell in the water, which was pretty hilarious.

    I have just such fond memories of staying with Kia. They had one of those blow-up spa pools, in which we basked at sunset, chatting and listening to music, sipping wine. I saw kangaroos poking around the front yards along the street, which excited me greatly.

    When I got back to Sydney, I caught up for a one-on-one day with Jason, the middle of the Brooks' boys. We went to Chinatown and ate some incredible dumplings, whilst talking about so many aspects of life that we couldn't talk with the others about. I felt so happy we had each other, outside of the church bubble, living lives that weren't strictly acceptable to the world we came from.

    We rented bikes and rode around the Opera House and surrounds. That was a fun mission. The Sydney Harbour really was a sight to behold.
    Eventually it was time to return to NZ. I remember the last meal with the Brooks being at a super delicious Malaysian restaurant, and I think I had nasi lemak.

    Even just this short time abroad, a taster of things to come, had had such a profound impact on me. I felt the tingling of a particular kind of freedom. One I'd fought to chase.
    And the road less travelled was about to launch me to a quaint town nestled in Southern Germany.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Switzerland

    10 Temmuz 2016, İsviçre ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    My first experience driving through a country border blew me away. Marius, dear brother from the outdoor leadership course at Sonshine Ranch, came to pick me up somewhere in Southern Germany and drove me with pride over a bridge into his country of Switzerland. I was extremely excited seeing all the flags, and simply driving from one road to the next, and suddenly knowing that I was in a new country.

    It was great to see him again, as we'd become great friends during the course, and our subsequent North Island road trip, and it was particularly difficult to say goodbye to him when he left NZ. I remember being at the ranch right after he'd flown out, and I went into his room and cried heavy, sobbing tears. It was painful becoming so close with someone, and having them leave, knowing that the chapter we'd just shared would never happen again.

    It had been more than a year since I'd seen him, so we had a lot to catch up on, and it was amazing to see him in his home world. I reunited with one of his friends, Felix, who I'd met in NZ briefly. Staying with Marius consisted of a lot of boys time, hanging out with him and his buddies. I loved it.
    We went up a lookout over the "Three Land Corner", where the borders of France, Germany and Switzerland meet.
    One night we drove for 5 minutes to go and get McDonalds in Germany as it was cheaper than Switzerland. That was a new experience for me. Hop to another country just like that.

    After a lovely time visiting Marius in Basel, I hopped on to a train for another new and even slightly weirder experience. To cross what felt like a border, in language, architecture, signage, whilst staying in the same country. I was bound for Vevey, on the lake of Geneva, in the French part of Switzerland. Here I met with Dylan. Dylan, the half Swiss, half kiwi surfer boy I'd met at Matata Beach on my road trip with Marius and Sara.

    The boy I'd looked at when we rolled into the campsite there at golden hour, as he sat smoking in a camping chair outside his van, shirtless and wearing sunglasses, hair long and tousled, funny little beard on his chin. We'd struck up conversation as I'd gone to the beach to photograph the sunset, and as I'd pulled the camera back from my face, he was standing beside me. He intrigued me so much.
    We'd spent some time chatting that evening, and stayed in touch long enough for me to now be visiting him in his home world.

    I arrived at the ornate train station in Vevey, truly feeling like I was in France, and his message advised me to meet him at the fork, on the lake. This confused me but he assured me it was very noticeable. Sure enough, a giant silver fork stood in the shallows on the lake, and I met Dylan there in the afternoon light. This lake was glorious, bright blue, skirted by glorious mountains. His friends were all lovely, and very intimidating. Very cool bunch of people. As I compare my time in Basel with my time in Vevey, I'm struck by how little I remember of Basel, and how much more vivid my recollections of Vevey are.

    Dylan's house vibe was very cool, it was interesting to hear French spoken for the first time, and I observed and enjoyed the atmosphere a lot.
    There's one moment I'll never forget.
    I'd noticed something lovely at the dinner table, and afterwards as Dylan and I stood at the balcony watching the late summer sun setting, I mentioned it to him. It was how beautiful I found it that he and his friends were so loving and affectionate with one another. Especially with his male friends. I shared that I grew up in an environment that wasn't overly affectionate.
    Apparently he hadn't either. But he had made the decision to be different. I admired this, and held onto it closely as I went on the inner journeys of my travels. Healing from childhood and adolescence, shaping who I wanted to come, in spite of what I'd come from.

    One day I took Dylan's longboard that he offered me to use, and skated along the lakeside path, all the way to the next village of Montreaux. I had never before, and have not since, longboarded such a distance. It was quite the adventure.
    I passed by a lot of buskers, people playing accordians and wind instruments. I said bonjour as much as I could.
    I lost control and the longboard went flying under a car, much to the passenger's surprise and dismay. I said sorry profusely, in a French accent, whilst also laughing at the ridiculousness of it.

    Upon arriving in Montreaux, I found a jetty to sit at the end of, and soak up the mountains, the glorious lake. Here I met a lovely Australian couple, Tegan and Danny, for the first time. They took my picture for me. I so enjoyed the ease of being around Australians. The sense of humour, the things we know being from that part of the world. It felt comforting to meet them and get along so effortlessly straight away.

    Time with Dylan consisted of good chats, good food, and good music. I was still relatively shy, and a little timid in his world. But I enjoyed it deeply, and was grateful to have gotten to know this friend more.

    The next train I boarded took me to the other side of Switzerland, back into Schweitzer-Deutsch territory, to a small farm town called Bischofszell. Sara, the other Swissie from my outdoor course, lived here on her family's sheep farm, and I was so excited to see her again. We'd also become so close during the course, she felt like a sister to me.
    She picked me up, and when I told her I'd just been at Dylan's, she told me I was crazy.
    It's been 8 years since that time, and Dylan is the only one still in my life... So interesting to think about.

    The time with Sara was splendid, but challenging in new ways. Her family was incredibly warm and welcoming, and very tight-knit. Parents, two brothers, two sisters, all very close and Christian, kind of an intense unit to enter into. I helped out on the farm, and got to ride Sara's Paso Finos. They had somewhat excessive tack that I wasn’t used to, but the trails were gorgeous and we took the horses into the river.

    I couldn't get over how these people ate. There was a plastic sheet over the table, they didn't use plates for breakfast, and every day was a freshly baked loaf of Swiss bread, which they'd top with slabs of butter, going through a pound every day. They were big people with big days and big appetites.

    My German was still very much in infancy, with a solid foundation from a year of study in school, but nothing to lean on yet as a form of communication. But Sara's family tended to act as if I understood everything. Surely, right? This incredibly difficult dialect of German, of all things.
    The unexpected challenge came in the form of getting a kind of sick I hadn't been before, and finding myself deeply triggered in the family environment, not knowing how to ask for help.
    I had my first UTI, from a sexual encounter with another old character from the Ranch days who I'd had a massive crush on and met up with in Stuttgart. He turned out to be an asshole. No wonder I had an infection.

    So physically I was feeling pretty awful, and besides that, I felt incredibly uncomfortable being this outsider in a family that was so tight-knit, especially as my family had crumbled apart in the last years. It was hard for me not to just want to curl up and disappear. Finally I managed to confide in Sara, and she helped me feel so assured of my being welcome, even if my family had ceased to be a safe place for me, her family was very happy to have me be a part of it. She took me to the doctor, who spoke very poor but amusing English, and I was on the mend, and felt like another little piece of the puzzle had landed for me. That I could find belonging and acceptance outside of my family, and that I'd be ok.

    Sara and I went to St Gallen music festival with some friends of hers, which was incredibly muddy and full of people. But we saw Mumford and Sons which was fantastic.
    One night we went to a local yodelling festival which was like nothing I'd ever seen in my life. Men standing around wine barrels slowly and then all at once breaking into yodels, which resounded and spread to the nearby tables as the yodels got louder, building to a crescendo before seemingly all at once ending, the talking resuming.
    There was a fireworks show over a lake, timed with classical music, that was quite spectacular.

    I was struck by how the farmers fed their cattle. They were in barns, and we'd go out to the lush paddock, which had no fences, and cut enough grass to bring to the animals. Such a far cry from the grazing we see in NZ.
    I remember Sara's sister teaching me the word 'selbst-verteidigung' (self-defence) as we walked in the paddock together, bridging our language barrier with laughter and playfulness.

    The time with Sara and her boisterous family was wonderful for my soul. I ate far too much food, but felt nourished and loved, uplifted by them and their wholesome way of life, and connection to their community. It was a good life they lived.

    As beautiful as Switzerland was, it was horrifically expensive, so having seen my good friends, it was time to head back to Germany for the next adventures.
    Okumaya devam et

  • An airbus, and a village called Neuffen

    8 Nisan 2024, Almanya ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    The time had come. I was at Auckland Airport, with Mum, Hannah, and Alisha as my farewell party, awaiting my first solo long haul flight. Some tears were shed, but I mostly remember feeling so excited that it didn't occur to me to feel sad.
    A year didn't seem long enough anyway.
    I boarded my Emirates flight, direct to Dubai. Lucky me had booked a window seat with 2 empties beside me. Very convenient for the 18 hour non-stop journey.
    God I love this feeling. Walking into an airplane at night, each seat all ready and waiting with a blanket and pillow, the lights dim, the rows slowly filling with people all excited for their travels, getting settled in.

    I found my seat, and got all my things ready to feel as cosy as possible. I'd brought pyjamas, a pair of comfy socks, my journal, a scarf, and toiletries. It was the start of what became an important tradition for me to journal at the very start of a journey, on the flight, or bus, or ferry.
    It's genuinely crazy for me writing this now, at 27, thinking back to my 19 year old self sitting on that flight, not having a single clue what the next years would bring. Just by choosing to go on this adventure, the course of my life would be wonderfully and accordingly shaped, to mould myself into who I am today.

    I wrote my entry, and as we took off, I watched the lights of little Auckland slowly fade into the distance. The dinner they served was fantastic, some kind of stew if I remember correctly.
    After dinner I changed and went about my routine as if I were just going to bed on any normal night. I prepared the cosiest bed you could ever ask for in economy class, complete with the extra pillows and blankets, and curled up to sleep.
    After some hours I woke up and peered out the window. There were some lights way down there. I looked at the map to see we were over Australia, and a rush of excitement went through me. I was really there, hovering over the planet, moving through the air to a very far away place.
    I slept for another several hours. The next time I stirred and looked down below us, I felt a new sensation. I was looking down at lights that were laid out in a style I had never seen before. It was unlike anything I could think of.
    India. We were passing over India. This new sensation was something of a passing over a threshold. From the familiar, to that giddy excitement, to a sudden and sobering knowing, that the world I come from is but the tiniest sliver. And that I will grow to know the world beyond it and it will change me.

    All up I slept for a bit over 10 hours. Pretty unheard of when it comes to flying. I still had 8 whole hours left though.
    I found what remains one of my favourite films of all time: Unbranded, a documentary about 4 American cowboys who train wild mustangs and ride them from Mexico to Canada, through the wilderness of the mid-west.
    I must've watched other things but this was the only one I will never forget.

    Eventually the night turned into morning, and in the lead-up to landing in Dubai, they served us a delicious breakfast.
    I gawked looking out the window at the houses as we flew closer to Dubai airport. Middle Eastern mansions, desert, palm trees, pools. Truly another world.
    The airport itself too, a structural masterpiece.
    I didn't have too long to wait here. It was remarkable seeing the Arab men walking around in their robes. Everything felt very clean, bright and crisp here. It was also around 8am, so the coolest it would be for the rest of the day.

    Before long I was boarding the next flight, the 7hr to Frankfurt, in no less than an Airbus A380. Such an impressive plane, the economy seats felt like a normal plane's business class.
    I took my window seat, a distinctly different feeling in this day time setting than the long haul had been. It was hard to let it sink in, that I was in the Middle East.

    There was a free seat beside me, and a very tall young man sat down in the aisle seat. We smiled at each other, and starting chatting. Henry was from Germany, heading home after 6 months in Western Australia. He had such an impeccable accent, initially I thought he was Australian.
    There is a great word in German, which I didn't know at the time: 'sympatisch'. This is how I would've described Henry if I'd known the word. Essentially it means that you get a really good feeling about a person. Good, trustworthy, quality vibes.

    Throughout the flight we got to know each other, realised we had a lot of similar interests in the music realm, and he invited me to join him and his best friend for a festival in Berlin in a few months' time. Looking back at it now, it really was such an astounding way to form a friendship; it could've easily been one of those things that we said, yes we should totally do that, and have it amount to nothing.

    Henry became a huge part of my time in Germany! And I still consider him a friend all these years later.
    But as the flight ended, it'd be a while before we reunited, and my journey in Baden-Wurttemberg was about to begin.

    Gesine picked me up from the Frankfurt airport. It was so surreal. Absolutely delightful to see her familiar face, smiley, bubbly and warm as always! Gesine was like a mentor/friend figure to me. It was about 2pm when I arrived, and I experienced my first drive on the Autobahn, as we drove in her Volkswagen to the beautiful little village of Neuffen.

    Everything was so captivating. The architecture, the trees, just how completely different this world was. Neuffen lays nestled beside a low, forest-covered mountain range called the Schwaebische Alb. The houses had red roofs, white cladding, and all looked cosy and sturdy.
    I had the privilege of being invited to stay with Gesine at her Auntie Baerbel's house. They welcomed me so warmly into their lovely home. I can still walk through it in my mind.

    My room was a dream, with a huge window onto the balcony, and the A-frame of the ceiling giving the room a very cosy feeling.
    We had some food, and talked incessantly. Around 7pm, the jetlag hit me like a cricket bat to the face. Gesine insisted I needed to last even just one hour longer, so she dragged me out onto a walk. It was early summer there, so at that time it was still light out, with that deeply relaxing air at the end of a long warm day. We followed a gorgeous little walkway that went through some residential areas, some orchards, a bit of the forest, and paddocks.
    As we walked, we came across a shepherdess. She was a strong and beautiful woman, in her 50's, a true sheep herder. She didn't own land, rather she grazed and drove her sheep around the outskirts of the village. Her name was Annerose, and when she found out I was from New Zealand, she showed such immense excitement. Her daughter, a few years younger than me, was obsessed with NZ, and planning to visit once she finished school.
    So on this very first evening, Gesine and I made a friend. During my time in Neuffen, we had Annerose and Aline over for dinner, met up with them several times, and Aline took me to a very local party which was a fun experience.

    Jetlag wore off after the first couple of days. Gesine and I just free-flowed with our days, going for walks, hanging out with her Auntie, and introducing me to more of her family, as well as to German cuisine, and all the different shops and supermarkets. The novelty of it all meant that it really didn't matter what we were doing, it was all so interesting.

    We planned our first trip to see her brother Thomas, and his wife Judith, whose family I'd gotten to know well at Sonshine Ranch. They'd been living there as I did the outdoor leadership program after school. The kids, Nathanael, Noemi, and Joshie, were like little siblings to me by the end.
    They lived a couple of hours away, in an even smaller village called Nitzenhausen, affectionately called Nizza.

    This was such a quaint place, with very old buildings, surrounded by farmland. They were in the process of renovating the house they'd bought, a 200 yr old building, with a big barn at the back. Gesine and I were going to help them with any projects we could.
    I was so happy to see them again. It felt so familiar and easy to settle back in with the kids, playing in the barn, which had a big concreted area that we played ball games in, and rode around on the skateboard. Gesine and I were camping in the loft of the barn.

    We helped them with wallpapering, a special type they called 'tapete'. It was immensely satisfying. I was so impressed by Thomas' skills in building. Besides that, the fact that a 200 yr old property was in such good shape. It would be a very different story in NZ.
    On the days off we went for adventures. One day we went to a local river and paddled down in canoes. It was my first unfortunate encounter with stinging nettle. My whole hand was burning for hours.
    We'd play soccer on the sports field. Go swimming at the nearby lake. Noemi and I played a lot on the trampoline. She really was like my sister. We explored a nearby town and ate ice cream.

    The soccer world cup was on at the time. One evening I went by myself down to the local viewing. I was stared at, very openly. A village like this, everyone knew everyone. I stuck out like a sore thumb, but I enjoyed this experience. It became a theme of my travels, putting myself into really random situations like this. I got to see something very few tourists would!

    Gesine and I made another friend one night. We went for a beautiful evening bike ride, beside the golden fields surrounding the town. It was magical. As we arrived back into the town, before dark, we were called out to by a guy on a bike. He came boosting down towards us, with a big cheeky smile on his face. I liked his energy. He spoke very little English, but was so curious to know who we were. His name was Ele, and he reminded me of Chad, from Kaitaia. He invited me to a party if I was interested. I definitely was, but I didn't make it there.

    The time in Nizza was so enjoyable, Gesine and I really didn't want to leave! It was hard to say goodbye, but we planned to come back.
    Back in Neuffen, I made plans for some solo journeys. First stop was Switzerland, to see a few very special people.
    Okumaya devam et