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Corfu hiking

August 2022
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  • TravelerCorfu hiking
    1
    Day 11

    Deap breath

    August 16, 2022 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    The heat is quite relentless although I must admit we as Africans are a little more adapted to it. Today was our first rest day but that still meant 12000 steps. The town was empty the day after the holiday or was this another siesta. The air conditioner did some work and we had some time on the beach. Reflecting on the last few days what stood out was that there is a lot of litter really a lot, the roads are so narrow and very uneven, There are no pavements the vehicles all drive slowly and you seldom hear a hooter. 👨‍⚕️ drivers are patient. When two busses meet they pass with about 10 cm clearance and they have no dents or scratches. Parked cars put their side mirrors flat. There is a taverno every 40m. There are lots of cats 🐈‍⬛ Rubbish is all dumped at village entrances. There are no waves in the pond. People are friendly but don’t know about hitching. There are no beggars. The island of Corfu is all about tourists. It’s been a great day and back on the bicycle tomorrow 😃Read more

  • TravelerCorfu hiking
    Day 12

    Look for the E

    August 17, 2022 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    To be a Tourist is the plan today. Corfu town and the hop on off red bus starts with an early 3 klm walk to the bus stop. An hour to town and then stroll in quiet streets To us the best aroma was the many bakeries preparing their bread and pastries for the day. So tempting and the next bakery looked better than the last so much choice we kept moving on we arrived at the red busses with none. Ok so later when we go home. We went to some museums listened to commentary and caught a ferry to visit Mouse island. We Stood at the end of the airport runway as planes flew over and saw the city. Shirley in long pants was sweltering so a dress was needed . We wandered through the now crowded streets looking for clothes and a suitable purchase relieved the heat. We headed for the fish and Fresh food market. At a busy hi stall I asked for the menu to select and check prices… “NO MENU SIT.”We sat. A pitcher of beer 🍺 and juice 🥤 were accompanied by deep fried sardines and calamari with a side Greek salad and chips. Really impressed that Shirley ate whole Sardines. A horrendously high bill 💵 wrecked the budget. Nearly 3 and Time to head back to the green bus station. Still missed on the pastry 🥐.The bus station was crowded busy noisy and I bought tickets to Ageo Georgios in the south and sat to wait-at bay 4. announcement that our bay had changed was in Greek and we headed to bay 7 where the bus was already full so we would have to stand. Shirley was offered a seat and I got talking to a huge muscular man from the Congo he was a boxer who trained with Willy Lock several years ago. The trip was speeding by and then I looked out the windows. Where the xxxx in Corfu were we mountains Forrest’s and strange sights. The driver looked at my ticket . Stopped Wrong bus …. goes to Giorgio’s …. get off. We abandoned the bus now stranded in a tiny village hours away from home near to Gorgios not Georgios . Oooops We found a bus stop waited 2 hours caught the bus 🚌 changed to another while on route, arrived Corfu, waited for a bus and headed south to Georgios. We were dropped 3 klm from home at 22h00 . So my message is always look for the ERead more

  • TravelerCorfu hiking
    Day 13

    Busses

    August 18, 2022 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    The surface of the blue ocean is not smooth, it is agitated with splashing and movement of tiny bodies. Birds are diving and porpoises jumping, there are tuna and sharks all gouging. A huge grey shadow appears and the shape changes as the gigantic mouth opens and ingests the bait ball . The bus is already full but still more climb in as a few spill out. The busses on this island are the lifeblood and they connect every little village, resort , town and city. The island is divided in north and south of Corfu town. East to west is seldom over 8 to 12 klm. . The green busses are the long distance white serving smaller areas. It takes about one and a half hours to move 35 klm and can take 4 hours with stops to get to a destination although busses pass regularly. This day was another move to a new area from South to North of the island. The south is flatter dryer and more people the North is greener with mountains and steep drops to the ocean. The resorts and towns in the north are mainly on the coasts edge down steep ridges while the abodes in the south spill inland. The north has big expensive looking villas in exclusive small groupings. Our journey was from Agio Georgios to Kalami in the north. My pack was now filled with food and water. There are almost no streams or rivers and the tap water generally brackish so everyone drinks bottled water and the plastic remains are littered along the roads. Our trip was a bus to the terminus catch another to the north and then walk down a steep road to our new stopover . The roads are so narrow when bus meets bus there is less than 10 cm to spare you have to jump into a gap in the bushes if walking. Cars have to pull over buildings shake and it’s amazing the skill of the drivers. The conductors are gruff no nonsense no eating no drinking SIT. We get to Kalami after 4 hours and I lug my overpacked bag to a small clean apartment our home the next two nightsRead more

  • TravelerCorfu hiking
    Day 14

    White house

    August 19, 2022 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    We had de- bussed on the main road and I looked with trepidation at the steep 2 klm decent we were about to make into Kalami. The houses were all majestic with lots of swimming pools. A thing about swimming pools is that most of the resort pools, (there are a lot of them), on main roads, side roads and at taverno’s , (sometimes called bar pools), are open to the public. It’s just “Buy a coke and swim.’ The service road into Kalami levelled out next to a pebble beach packed with recliners and all with an inhabitant. We had walked along Durrell lane and Shirley was excited to be in the place of my family and other animals ( maybe it reminded us of home). Our room was tiny but less than 30 steps to the beach. We put away our packs, relief , and crazily went for a walk. The main road is 50 m which led us to finding the White House, the home of the Durrells. Mission accomplished. The resort town of Kalami was the best stop so far, the water crystal clear and even some fish 🐠. We had swimming goggles which were put to good use. The main beeches in Corfu are all so full, packed with rentable umbrellas and recliners, but a stiff walk over the ridge brought us to a secluded cove. The walk of 2 klm meant no one on the beach. Of course there were still the many expensive yachts and speedboats anchored off the shore. The swimming in warm and icy patches was a relief from the searing hot sun. The evening sunset at 21h30 was enjoyed with Our favourite dinner of fresh bread, olive oil, balsamic vinegar with cold meats and a Mythos beer on the veranda ended a perfect day.Read more

  • TravelerCorfu hiking
    Day 15

    Low hanging fruit

    August 20, 2022 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We were up early on Saturday morning as we had a steep climb out of Kalami to get to the bus 🚌 stop. With full packs we knew it would be a tough walk. We were sorry to leave this pretty bay of turquoise water but Once again we were settled for a slow bus drive to our Next stop. Sidari which is at the northern edge of Corfu is a bigger town and has more tourists it even has a real Supermarket. We arrived in the middle of town and then only out found our accommodation was several klm back along the main road having passed it on the bus. We walked back to A small apartment off the beaten track but a few klm out of town. Provisions were needed so aother 4klm round walk, carrying food drink and 9kg of fresh water was on the cards. Walking in Corfu is a mixture of
    Paths backroads and main roads. On all of these routes we could
    always find a way to rustle a delicious fruit salad. Most of the properties have fruit trees vegetable gardens growing along the fences and in them. As we walked we would see majestic olive trees, (they are regularly pruned right back so that ancient trunks that have a circumference of meters support thin branches laden with olives 🫒). There are grapes hanging from vines draped over fences. Figs dangle temptingly from trees that often offer welcome shade from the hot sun. There are mulberries black berries loquats peach trees and apple trees all hanging over the paths. The prickly pears look scrumptious but not to be touched by us. In a month when all fully ripened it would be a fantastic feast of fruit. We could not resist picking the early ripe fruit when it was there. There is No doubt the fruit tastes sooooo much better when freshly picked while
    Walking and sweating in the hot Corfu sun    Read more

  • TravelerCorfu hiking
    1
    Day 16

    A quiet beech

    August 21, 2022 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Shirley and I agreed the main beach of Sidari and is not the best as there is a river that is not too clean emptying into the bay. We decided we were walking to a more remote location. We have discovered that an extra 800 m walk can totally change the whole feel and atmosphere of a beach or place as few here like to walk. We decided to explore the lanes and area we were in and then head to a beach further south. We walked some dusty lanes chatted to an Englishman living in Corfu, drinking an early beer 🍺 in a dusty shabeen like Tavern. We found the monastery of St John. Although locked up we could see candles alight in the church. The head of a dragon lay on the ground remnants of some huge float of far gone years . We slugged up some very steep hills, so steep it felt like my nose was scraping the ground. We stopped for ice cream in a very neat Taverno and we passed some impressive homes. . The wind was blowing hard and in a small bay there were even waves in the Med ok small waves 🌊 and two young girls swimming. A bit rocky so over another hill and we got to a beach near Roda. The wind was whipping up sand and the water was murky not the best but a cool dip relieved the hot 🥵 . A tough long uneventful trek back home ended a pretty average day for a long walkRead more

  • TravelerCorfu hiking
    1
    2
    Day 17

    Lost

    August 22, 2022 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Lost has so many meanings and even more implications. When traveling in a country where the language is strange to the ear and even stranger to read then lost might be the wrong street. When we turn down a wrong street I might say We Lost it! When I misplace my stick I lost it. When you face lost a long way from home it takes patience and adaptability, deep breaths and a cool head to avoid a blood rush and knee jerk reactions. You could lose you wits. We have faced lost so many times in all the above ways this journey and this day was no exception. Our whole adventure in Corfu is really spontaneous and what we do tomorrow depends on decisions today. We plan our life one day ahead and look for attractions and things to do and see. Our plan today was to have an easy 3 klm walk along the beach to Canel de Amour. It’s the place lovers go and if you swim through the arch together it’s wow and for ever. Just what we wanted. We left our apartment and chatting about possibilities we took a tight turn. And in 5 min and we knew we were on the wrong road and instead of retracing our steps we soldiered on. The road ended and open fields beckoned it had to be a shortcut. Left-right-straight where is the Sea 🌊. Lucky for low hanging fruit as refreshing distractions or we would have perished. The miles became hours and at last we spotted life Just over the hill. On the beach. Our bearings in order we got back on track. Rumbling bellies required a detour . We walked down the street bought lunch and In our slip slops we had now covered 6 klm . The noon sun was searing on our feet and blockout safely stored at home. At this time we should have learnt but another short cut was apparent. 30 min later deep into the hills we did the proverbial u turn Our original destination was the start of the detour. Not so funny 😆. We got to Canal De Amour and there was now little love left ❤️ most of it lost. Lucky A swim in the channel and magic clay rubbed on Shirley restored the amour of our day. Over a cold beer that evening lost in thought I realised I had at last lost my walking stick 🦯 while walking 15 klm but we had not lost loveRead more

  • TravelerCorfu hiking
    1
    Day 18

    Stripes

    August 23, 2022 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    The temperature had eased a little into the lower 30’s and our time in Corfu winding down. We had heard of Afionas where land juts into the Mediterranean dividing the water east and west. Great for swimming and views and we had some unfinished business with Agio Georgious nearby. Early up and a walk to the bus stop where we found that there were no connecting buses directly to the west coast. We would have go through the central Corfu exchange 36 klm away. Over a tiny R60 cup of coffee at a local bakery we found that Taxis were not available and hiring a 4-wheeler bike not reasonable at R1200 for the day. The bus arrived so decision made we headed south to the terminus to catch a bus north to our planned destination. As is the way the bus stops and starts through narrow roads and it takes 2 hours. The overwhelming impression as you drive through the many villages is of an older generation clinging to a previous life, buildings locked in time,while the Younger people have moved on. A three hour layover was spent walking in Corfu, people watching and shopping, we did visit a small stall, that squeezed fresh oranges, twice. The bus trip to Gergious was through the olive trees forests past abandoned buildings and up windy roads. Agio Georgious is a very pretty bay with one side being the peninsula that is Afionas. It was hot and the sand burnt our feet so We dived in to swim in the clear cool water. We planned to walk home in the late afternoon about 16 klm but only when it got cooler. The walk started with a climb up to Afionas. A small village with beautiful views cobbled paths and smart looking stores selling olive oil, sweet Greek seeets and wood carvings. As usual there were lots of Taverna’ s. Our walk home was very bumpy up and down, we passed many small holdings and villages and saw more abandoned buildings. The country side had olive and fruit trees and folded into small homesteads with old buildings. We explored a deserted half built house, it had frayed curtains still hanging and all the appearance of the planned grandeur the builder seemed to have wanted but now lying unfinished. Our walk took several hours and when we got home footsore as we had covered 25 klm our longest day so our stripes earned.Read more

  • TravelerCorfu hiking
    Day 19

    Last Fling

    August 24, 2022 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Today is the last day of our Corfu walk but not the adventure. 220 klm behind us so a sleep-in was planned . Browsing over the map in the morning I spotted a peninsula we had missed Cape Drastsis. It had a ring to it and it was only 6 klm away. The day was cooler it was still early so on with the boots 🥾 The walk was through Sadari then up a long climbing road past some Tavernas and pool bars to the top of the mountain. The view of Cape Drastis was spectacular. It offered a steep decent on dusty white and grey clay roads to some small coves Towering white cliffs framed the turquoise water. There were inlets and half caves eroded by the sea into the cliffs. In places the whole side of the mountains had washed down into the water making multi-coloured islands. We put on goggles and swam around the area again almost no sea life. No fishes or rock life at all just blue water with excellent visibility. There were no crowds or beach recliners or umbrellas the long hard walk ensured only a few brave souls sitting on the clay slopes. One lonely stall was selling trips on a boat back to town and we decided to avoid the steep climb back up the mountain and spoil ourselves What a super surprise as we got some amazing views of the coast and the towering white and grey cliffs with a hair cut of forest trees on top. The boat dropped us and we strolled down the beach and across the bay. A last swim where we met Costa who in 2 minutes names about 10 grand eating places in Athens and we headed back to our apartment to pack .Read more

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