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A 9-day adventure by John Read more
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  • John BickerstaffLow Countries cycle
    Day 1

    Amazon traffic jams & epic bike stores.

    August 17, 2022 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Stupidly early flight coupled with easyJet sending an email warning of delays meant an early morning / late night start. Squeezed in the car - a Jumbo bike box meant seats were as far forward as possible. Thankfully Liz was the hero on both counts getting up at stupid o'clock & driving. Rain on the way didn't bode well. Also a bit jittery about the sheer quantity of stuff crammed in the bike box - official guidance states nothing but a bike. Banked on the taped up box and queues discouraging investigation as has been the case previously & so it proved. Security negotiated relatively painlessly. Similar leg room on the flight to the car but at least I had an aisle seat. Struggled to stay awake though turbulence helped. My first experience of Brexit tourism didn't help my mood - look at what you could've won - EU passports sailing through the automatic booths and massive queues for the stupid.
    Once done, Bike was there ready to be assembled. Minor panic when my pump exploded - nothing a bit of gaffer tape couldn't botch tho. By the time I'd assembled the bike the rain that followed me had passed. Just the small matter of cycling through the midst of an international hub served by numerous motorways. No worries - Holland has it sorted - 20m away from where I was sorting the bike was a superb bike lane that would proceed to guide me off road pretty much all the way to Delft. Even incorporated a lift to access a bridge. Couldn't do anything about the Amazon warehouse - took a while to get past the endless stream of Amazonia departing. Excited to see the first windmill but that quickly dissipated. Loads of windmills but no shops. Eventually found a supermarket at the halfway point in Leiden. Had lunch admiring a particularly historic windmill. For once this was in an urban setting rather than by one of the numerous canals. Pushed on and spits and spots gradually got worse & worse. With 6 miles to go the waterproof was called for. By the hotel all was damp to say the least. Checked in & was directed to the station bike car park. Never have I seen so many bikes - most of which were the Dutch tank like versions. Quick wash, explore Delft. Popped into the Jumbo supermarket - as in Jumbo Visma Cycling - living the high life.    Read more

  • John BickerstaffLow Countries cycle
    Day 2

    Abuse in Dutch... possibly

    August 18, 2022 in the Netherlands ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Packed, unpacked & packed again - out of practice. Headed to Jumbo - nice & quiet as was the spec for breakie. A little mooch around Delft while it was less wet. Annoyingly the market square was full of market stuff. The cycle itself could've been somewhat shorter but decided to take in a number of sites in Rotterdam rather than just scooting through. Apparently it is famous for its architecture so planned a route that took in some of the more eye-catching examples, oh & the football stadium - which actually is historic - built in the 30's & what the Nou Camp is modelled on. Again cycling was a joy - busy city but everywhere had bike lanes & drivers were always giving way. On the way the Rotterdam Euromast appeared looming above the treeline. It'd be rude not to look into going up it if it wasn't too pricey. Who am I kidding? Managed to get upsold to the ride to the very top. The views weren't much different but was good for a panoramic. The Market Hall was madly big like a number of the bridges I was to tackle. Headed south via the Feijenoord stadium which disappointingly you couldn't get close to. Onwards towards the Kinderdijk ferry & bizarrely, as I approached an old man he started hurling abuse at me, at least I assume that from the tone. Needless to say I didn't understand a word. Not sure if it was bikes or Liverpool that wound him up - or he just didn't like the look of me.Read more

  • John BickerstaffLow Countries cycle
    Day 2

    Windmill frenzy.

    August 18, 2022 in the Netherlands ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Made it to the ferry jetty just as it was leaving. Rats. Next one was half an hour. Settled down with some strawberries & proceeded to try & sort out some issues with the sat nav. I did not. Anyway the ferry left packed with bikes - off to Kinderdijk - apparently a world heritage site - unlike Liverpool. It is an area harking back to when windmills were everywhere in Holland and there really were tonnes of them. On leaving the ferry you were directed to a path & there were windmills wherever you looked pushed on beyond the masses & it was a pretty peaceful place disturbed only by the occasional boat trip. A visit here was always the plan but the original route had been a little circuitous so I thought I'd try to find a shortcut. Messed around with the sat nav & it appeared that 30 miles had been turned into 20. Pushed on with the new route except I hadn't read carefully. The 20 was what had done & when I looked a little while later what I had left to cycle was a rather grim 65. Panicked. Reason then took over. The scenic route originally was 50 so it couldn't be 65. Did some on the hoof navigation. Tolerated some bridge issues, diversions and a heavy shower. Made it to Breda - birthplace of the Big Man and the hotel was in the middle of an industrial estate. Not really a problem since the neighbouring hotel had a restaurant, except it didn't - short staffed. So had a pleasant / bizarre evening walk through the industrial estate to the nearby retail park. Almost succumbed to the promise of Aircon in McDonalds but resisted & had a dollop of pasta.Read more

  • John BickerstaffLow Countries cycle
    Day 3

    No. 7 is on the way

    August 19, 2022 in Belgium ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Somewhat surprised to find cloudy skies but a sunburnt neck meant few complaints & bandana around the neck just in case. Not at my sparkling best - the room below had visitors banging on their windows, shouting and generally being annoying throughout the night. Was a bit weary. Headed into Breda for breakie & to have a little mooch around. Impressed by the former prison. Settled, however for a spec by the 'harbour' watching the comings & goings setting up for Havenfest, perfectly timed to coincide with the Vuelta going through Breda. Oops - my bad - a day early. Just got going on breakie when I was approached by a drunk, possibly homeless guy asking for some food. Had plenty so offered him a cake. Very appreciative & then descends into a contradictory diatribe about the Arabic world - both evil and saving the world. Got onto Liverpool & Mo Salah, unsurprisingly. Apparently No. 7 is a cast iron certainty. The media take notice of octopuses making predictions so why not a mad drunk who may or may not believe Islam is terrible. I'm going with it. Eventually he got bored with me & allowed me to finish my breakie. Onwards towards Antwerp & it was a bit like hard work - combination of wind, cobbles & fatigue. Plodded on & with about 15 to go had a pleasant surprise - a canal towpath that took me to within 6 miles of Antwerp. This wasn't any old towpath smooth paved & wide. The odd shower couldn't detract. Once off, closed roads, diversions & Antwerp's tram system brought me back down to earth. Once showered, had an explore of Antwerp. Clearly a historic and wealthy port city. Very nice wander around. Cathedral charged so that was a no no. The pedestrian tunnel to the other side of the river & town was free. Easy choice. Could see the thunder clouds approaching so made a sharp exit to the hostel - just in time. Thai for tea - yum.Read more

  • John BickerstaffLow Countries cycle
    Day 4

    Cobbles, more cobbles & Belgian Pave.

    August 20, 2022 in Belgium ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Another grim night. Snorers & coughing frenzies you'd expect to be the chief culprits but annoying as they were it was the stifling heat. Warm as Antwerp was the hostel wasn't dealing well with it. Apparently it had an eco ventilation system - that's as may be but I wouldn't say it was effective. To top it off I got the breakie time wrong - forgot it was the weekend. Had 30 mins to kill. Heading out of Antwerp should be mellower on a Saturday morning. Hmmm. Less cars but much meaner cobbles - some demon stuff that was exclusively for the cycle lanes - nasty. Ended up cycling on the kerb stones for a hint of smooth. Disappointed with Boom - the place nothing explosively exciting to see. The next stop was to be challenging. A former SS prisoner of war camp. Interesting & harrowing at the same time. One in particular - a dwarf administrator who was in the wrong place at the wrong time. Did nothing wrong. The uniform wouldn't fit - no allowances were made on parade. The commandant made a show of him by regularly calling this out, lifting him above his head & throwing him across the yard. The poor guy lasted a matter of days. Lots of grim stuff like that. Hard work but fascism can't be forgotten.Read more

  • John BickerstaffLow Countries cycle
    Day 4

    Officially - my second best Best Western

    August 20, 2022 in Belgium ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After the grimness of Fort Breendonk, something uplifting was needed. You can't beat climbing a big tower. Well, I guess you could if you had a dodgy knee and maybe if the temp wasn't hovering around 30. Still it's what I do. Mechelen has a cathedral with a big tower you can climb and it was about a half way point so all was good. 500 steps later & all was sweaty. Great views of Antwerp to the North & Brussels to the South. You could even see the Atomium sparkling in the sunlight. Got me thinking - take a detour there while sun's out just in case - cheer me up. Lunch first & impeccable choice of spec in the middle of a dual carriageway - it was shady & there was grass. It wasn't as busy & as noisy as it sounds. A little more on the hoof navigating - detour added around 4 miles. Atomium good to go. It was a very impressive sight - the queues and bustle not so much. Get in early tomorrow. Off to the hotel and Antwerp doesn't have a hold on demon cobbles. Nice Aircon & room to myself. Quick shower & explore. The imperial Belgians didn't skimp on their capital. The Grand Place is very grand. Unfortunately a sunny Saturday evening prompted grand crowds.Read more

  • John BickerstaffLow Countries cycle
    Day 5

    The main event.

    August 21, 2022 in Belgium ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The priority for today was getting a good look around the Atomium. According to Google the best times were kick off at 10 & around last orders at 5. Wasn't going to leave it till that late so a relatively early start was needed. Stopped at the local for breakie supplies & on to the metro. Opted for a ticket rather than mobile - didn't seem a good bet as my machine was taking an age & the guy next to me was hopping between the other 2 with what seemed little success. Mine eventually spat out a ticket. All good ... No. Wasn't sure where to put / swipe the ticket & by the time hoppy guy came over to show me it was 'computer says no' Looked around for help - no-one. Hoppy took the lead & whether he was having difficulties as well or just couldn't get a ticket proceeded to hold the gate open as we scuttled in after someone with a valid ticket. Law breakers - the way I saw it was I had a ticket. The bank app showed I'd paid at the time on the ticket. The issue was more getting back. Didn't fancy hopping the gates again. Anyway breakie on the train & to the Atomium. Stupidly early so wandered getting people free photos.
    Back and joined the queue but eventually realised having booked online the queue was not for me. Scooted through to the great views and the wild neon 2001 sci-fi influenced world of the Atomium. The design briefs, the corridors, the whole look would all have fitted in. All very interesting & enjoyable.    Read more

  • John BickerstaffLow Countries cycle
    Day 5

    Checking in on our star.

    August 21, 2022 in Belgium ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Having a day ticket for the metro meant a desire to at least get some value out of it - that was if it worked. Headed back via the Heysel Stadium - amazed to find no evidence of a memorial for the disaster. Was hoping that initially I'd swiped correctly & not gone through so the next time would've been invalid. Thankfully so it proved. Decided to go & check out the other thing Brussels seems to be famous for The EU. Go and check whether they are looking after our star...
    Lots of big new buildings & some nice parks as well but no toilets. Had to sneak into the Indian food festival. The 2 museums located near weren't really for me - army & armaments - had enough of that sort of thing yesterday. And a car museum - there was a day but that has long gone. Took in the parliament, had a sarnie in the park & then headed back to the Royal Palace Park. Have a little wander - map said the palace was closed but wasn't going to pay anyway. Lots of shady spots in the park & as the palace grew closer people seemed to be going in. Overheard that it was free - surely not. Queried with a Bobby & sure enough the king has decreed that the palace & all its contents belong to the people so they shouldn't have to pay. Doesn't happen with our bunch of royal spongers does it? Since it's free why not have a look and judge. The opulence was obscene & free tickets don't remotely mitigate. Back to the hotel for a break & then a little Tintin treasure hunt - find the mural & the comic museum. The mural took a while longer than planned so the museum was more photo op than anything else. Opted for a Hawaiian Poke Bowl for tea - was gorgeous    Read more

  • John BickerstaffLow Countries cycle
    Day 6

    Not being assed in Asse.

    August 22, 2022 in Belgium ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Not having ordered breakie meant an early start was within my grasp. Forecast not too promising though better than it had been. Better look out the waterproof - strange - couldn't think where it was. And it dawned - it was still hanging up in Antwerp. So we have a bodged pump that probably could do with replacing & a forgotten waterproof that probably will be needed - if only in London. Better find a bike shop - there'll be tonnes on the way. The route out of Brussels was marred with road works and detours - ideally avoided. Took a short cut to avoid one & ended up in a very narrow alley on rubbish day. Bike & I had to get through piles of bin sacks - nice. Bizarrely for a Monday things seemed pretty quiet though far more hairy than Saturday or Sunday. Proceeded along what felt like the East Lancs Road - going from the most important city to an inland provincial industrial back water - figure out which is which? Some of the stuff along these arteries is bizarre - noted my first out of town Thai restaurant that actually looked like one. Going through Boom saw a big Buddha, Thai decor etc. A huge sign proclaimed it to be a dodgy nightclub. Further on what looked like a dodgy nightclub turned out to be a Thai restaurant. V strange. First big place out of Brussels - the wonderfully named Asse - did my head in. Constantly being shuffled to the other side of the road because of bad parking - a first, more roadworks and a couple of bike shops - both closed. Good progress though - looking like Gent for lunch was doable so there must be something there. Saw my first brewery - they make a beer called delirium. Final real stop was with 8 miles to go. Decent sized supermarket - closed - opens at 12.30 - clearly Monday is a half day - except for the neighbouring petrol station. Requisite drinks purchased. Way too early to check in so dumped stuff & dashed across town to the Decathlon. Got waterproof so no rain was now a certainty. Back to the hostel and a mooch around Gent. Outskirts & harbour maybe mundane but the old town is stunning. Canalside walks, a castle and a high street with numerous cathedrals / churches. Scouted out possible sports bars & took in Graffiti St which pretty much is what it says. Went for a takeaway Hawaiian meal tonight and sat by the canal watching the boat rides, kayakers and stand up boarders having fun on the water. The less said about the footie the better - thankfully for me the stream gave up at half time. Packed instead.Read more

  • John BickerstaffLow Countries cycle
    Day 7

    Dive bombed by cranes

    August 23, 2022 in Belgium ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Today would be the last opportunity to take intrigue breaks as tomorrow would be something of a ferry dash. The first and main break was scheduled to be at Ooidonk Castle, purportedly one of the best preserved medieval moated castles according to Lonely Planet and who am I to argue. Might have been an idea to get Google's opinion - hideous Belgium cobbles negotiated - rocked up to find closed & locked gates. Opening time for appointment only visits was 2 - ahhh.
    More promisingly the surrounding parkland opened at 9.30 - only a 15 min wait. Tried with some success to get some illicit photos - private roads / land warnings aplenty. Got back to find, to no surprise at all, the gates still locked. The bright side was that this meant quieter roads - the detour took me away from the main road. Quieter roads however meant more cobbles. Also meant more obtuse roadwork closures and on the hoof navigation. All good fun - won't be saying that on the ferry run. Last stretch took in another of the areas big canals with the really big barges and bridge swings - Warrington would be impressed. Also managed to get harassed by jumpy cranes clearly not happy with me. The other wildlife possibility - bats unsurprisingly kept a low profile. Another early arrival, this time was rewarded with an early check in. Decided to hang fire on showering - instead take the recommended cycle along the canal, out to Damme, a quiet scenic little village. The alternative would be to take a paddle steamer - don't think so. Nice enough place - lots of tourist fodder. Back to base via Bruges & a little underwhelmed. Need to do a little research. Sure enough some good options - the ubiquitous bell tower climb, the best chocolate in Northern Belgium, plenty of canal side walking and the promise of waffles. Initial thoughts of the climb before being weighed down with copious quantities of chocolate were quashed - earliest available time of 5.20. Cue wandering, chocolate buying and waffle tasting - so much nicer than the American travesties. The climb itself was a bit hairier than usual - narrower 2 way spiral staircases but the views as usual were worth it. Breakie stuff sorted for an early start - the hostel staff were apologetic about not being able to do an earlier breakie and gave me 2 bananas as recompense. I'll take that. Bring on the dash .    Read more

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