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  • Dag 72

    Day 10 - Conquering the Summit - Manaslu

    15 april, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    This was the hardest challenge of my entire life.

    We all managed to stay warm in the night, thankfully. However, we all slept pretty badly due to the altitude (it makes you sleep restlessly because there's little oxygen), so when we woke in the dark at 3 am, we were all kinda glad to begin.

    After trying to stomach some Tibetan fried bread with egg, which was a terrible choice for so early in the morning, we got ourselves together and began our most challenging experience yet.

    It was pitch black, so everyone was wearing their head torches along the path, and if you looked around, you could just see little lights slowly moving up the mountain. Mine and James' stomachs quickly started protesting the fried bread that morning, and with the combination of 55% less oxygen and little sleep, things already felt bad in our bellies.

    At about 5 am, the sun was starting to hit the mountain peaks, and the view began to look like a poster picture of incredible images. The orange and pink of the sky reflected off some of the mountains onto others, and it was probably one of the most incredible things I'll ever see.

    It was incredible but also somewhat hard to enjoy as all I could think about was how hard it was to put one foot in front of the other and get enough breath. It looked and felt like we were walking in slow motion.

    At 4,900m, (1.5h away from the 5,100m peak), the altitude hit me the hardest. I felt incredibly lethargic and light-headed. I started worrying I was going to faint or that I'd have to turn back. We stopped for a moment, and Mitra gave me some coke which didn't seem like it helped initially, but after 10 mins, I think it kicked in. By now, the snow was many feet thick, and it was a gamble every time you put your foot down if it would hold or your foot would fall deep into the snow. The sun had risen fully and was blinding against the snow, and we were getting incredibly warm in our down jackets and multiple layers.

    After my wobble, I set my mind to getting over the peak and just getting the hell down from here. This one thought of starting our descent, as we couldn't turn back and there was no other way to get down, was what drove me on and on. As we came to the peak, Mitra, who was ahead of us, exclaimed "You made it!" And James, Cecilia and I all started crying uncontrollably. We had made it. We all found it so hard, at moments we each felt like we weren't going to make it. It's hard to describe the relief and happiness we all felt to have actually achieved this mammoth task. We all hugged, cried, and took photos. Cecelia had promised she was going to do burpees on the peak for her bootcamp. Amazingly, she did 10 when she initially thought she'd only be able to do one.

    After 10-15 minutes, we began our descent, but it turned out the challenge wasn't over yet. Going down, the snow got very slippery and even after applying our crampons, when we got to a huge side of the mountains with slushy snowy switchbacks for 2 hours, we all hated it. I was so scared of hurting my ankle again. James admitted to me on the peak that he already had zero energy and so was slipping quite a lot due to the lack of energy.

    After descending 776m, we finally arrived at the first building after the pass. In a fog of tiredness and pain, we sat down, and then in shock at what we'd just achieved, we began laughing and crying hysterically.

    The food was the most glorious thing I'd ever eaten, and afterwards, we descended into a silent stupor. We still had just under 5 km left until we arrived at our tea house for the night. We actually tried to get a price for a donkey to ride us the rest of the way, but no luck. At this point, we realised we'd be awake and walking for 12 hours.

    We arrived at the cutest tea house we'd stayed in yet, all of us with our own little cabins and a glorious hot shower. All the ladies washed their hair. We then all gathered in the dining hall where the fire was roaring, and we tucked into our dinner, and then promptly went to bed at 7 pm because we'd been up for SO long.
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  • Dag 71

    Day 9 - Manaslu trek

    14 april, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

    Today was going to be a very short day as we were just heading to Dharmasala, which was the final settlement before we went through Larkya La pass and the highest peak of the trek. We began early, setting out by 7 am. However, sitting at 4,500m, 500m higher than where we started, the whole route was uphill and with the altitude, the air was becoming very thin and hard to breathe in. So it took us nearly 4 hours to go 6 km.

    It turned out Dharmasala was more of a camp than any kind of settlement. There were two or three rows of prefabricated shelters with many rows of tents beside them. It was like being holed up in some kind of temporary shelter. The three of us were sharing a room, which was just a row of mattresses next to each other covering the entire space, and in front of us was the "dining hall," which was another prefabricated room that had a window missing. The whole thing was incredibly basic and at this altitude, incredibly cold (prob like -10). We arrived at 12ish, and after eating our lunch, we then had NOTHING to do until bedtime. There was a hill nearby that lots of people, including James, decided to climb, but otherwise, there was nothing to do and no comfortable place to be. Everyone there was there because they were going to climb the pass tomorrow, so looking around this desolate outcrop, you just saw bored, antsy hikers milling around trying to stay warm and look for something to do. Because of the altitude, you're also not supposed to nap as it can make the acclimatisation worse.

    By 3 pm, Cecilia, James and I were going crazy. We ended up speaking to a young man named Josh from Canada who was doing the trek with just himself and his guide. When Mitra found us, he managed to find us a deck of cards and taught us a Nepalese card game which managed to keep us entertained for at least 2 hours before our food arrived.

    Thankfully, our food managed to warm us up and then we all retired to our room to try and sleep before our 3 am wake-up the next day to begin our hike through the peak of our journey, Larkia Pass.
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  • Dag 70

    Day 8 - Manaslu trek

    13 april, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ -1 °C

    Today was a short day to Samdo, just three hours up to about 4,000m. We left late at about 8am and the road was a very gentle incline. James was not having a good day, his stomach was not great in the morning and then his back was aching from the bag today so it was a relief to finally arrive into Samdo.

    We requested a double bed room this time as we have been in twins the whole way and are missing our cuddles and the comfort of sitting next to eachother.

    As James wasn't feeling well, he tested in the room while we enjoyed a tasty lunch in the teahouses rooftop conservatory like structure which was warm in the sun. And then rested before taking a little 1 hour hike up to a ridge at 4,100m. It was pretty steep and I knew as we were going up I was not going to enjoy the decent. When we arrived at the top I didn't not like how steep it felt, I felt like I was on the edge of a cliff, which I guess was kinda true. The views of the mountains and the town and valleys bellow were incredible though and it was worth it just for that. Almost immediately as we deccended I became panicked, with my fear of slipping in the dusty rubbly path almost immobilized me, but with James there Cecilia was very encouraging and we made it down uninjured.

    I returned to James feeling a lot better and we ate dinner and firmed up or plans for the remainder of the trip.
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  • Dag 69

    Day 7 - Manaslu trek

    12 april, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

    Today was the best day so far! It was an acclimatisation day for us, so we were heading up to about 4,200m and then back down to sleep at our hotel at 3,500m. As it was just a day hike, it was nice not to have to take our full bags.

    As we hiked the steepish climb towards Mt Manaslu Basecamp, the view just got more and more amazing. Once we got about halfway up to the basecamp, we stopped at a cave with prayer flags and paused to take in the view. There were no words to describe it. While taking it in, we watched the glacier break off and avalanche down the mountain.

    Once we'd rested and taken in as much as we could, we headed back down and then took a detour to see the lake formed by the glacier. The water was SO cold but so beautifully blue it looked like it could be tropical. Cecilia stripped down to her underwear and went for a cold water swim. In comparison, I took off my shoes and socks and put my feet in, which I could only do for like 30 seconds.

    We then headed back to town via the massive monastery and arrived just in time to enjoy lunch outside in the sun. We spent the rest of the day chilling until dinner.
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  • Dag 68

    Day 6 - Manaslu trek

    11 april, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ -3 °C

    Today the plan was to do a kind of V-shaped route, first heading to Pung Gyen Gompa monastery, sitting at 4,000m, and then heading down to Samagaon village, (where we'd spend the next two nights), sitting at 3,520m. This was to help us acclimatise to the altitude.

    The hike up was only two hours up and two hours down, but both were VERY steep. Going up, the scenery changed from small pine woodland to open rocky tundra to vast open mountain plains. The view just kept getting better and better as we ascended until we just had no more words for how incredible it was. The air was definitely getting thinner too, as I was finding it very hard to move my muscles up the hill. We amazingly saw the most wildlife up here than we had the whole trek so far, including a tiny grey rabbit, marmots, mountain goats, and the National bird of Nepal, the Himalayan monal pheasant! (Which are super rare for this region, normally only found in Everest)

    We finally arrived at the monastery and caught our breath and had some snacks and Tibetan bread. We explored the temple and took in the scenery before retracing half our steps down and then on to Samagaon. It started snowing lightly as we descended, so I think it made us keen to go down asap. Just outside the village is the local school which serves children in the whole region, and they had a stall outside selling fresh, proper, French-pressed coffee, to raise funds for the school. Cecelia couldn't help herself, and James decided to have a coffee too. After being exhausted, they both perked right up after only a few sips.

    We checked into our lodgings, which were staying in for two nights. James and I plucked up the courage to ask for a room with a double bed, instead of the twins we'd been staying in every night, as we're missing sleeping next to each other and we'll probably need the warmth soon. They didn't end up having any free, but he said hopefully tomorrow when other people leave.

    We all tucked into a late lunch of spring rolls, which are super thick and chunky here, not like those piddly ones we get in the west, and then headed to our rooms to warm up in our sleeping bags and rest before a late dinner tonight.
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  • Dag 67

    Day 5 - Manaslu trek

    10 april, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ -3 °C

    We started the morning at 6.45 am for breakfast to make sure we got on the path by 7.30 as today was either a half-day or further if we had the energy, which if we went further would open our options for side quests the next day.

    We started off well with lots of incline but with a slow steady pace, it didn't feel too bad. At around 3,000m I began to feel the familiar feeling of just a little less air getting to me, so deepened my breaths to accommodate. However, luckily James and I felt no other altitude effects; we even slept well! We were still going strong when we stopped in Lho at a fantastic lunch spot which had the kitchen and dining on the roof in a kind of conservatory with the most stunning view of the mountains and even though there was a cold wind blowing, it was so lovely and warm in the dining hall. We took an extra bit of time enjoying extra drinks and the warmth of the space before heading back out. The second half of the day was only 2 hours so we had lots of time.

    The afternoon's trek was through some beautiful woods with a rushing stream, moss on the trees and beautiful afternoon sun pouring through the trees. We finally made it to Shyala sitting at 3,500m. When walking into the village it had plenty of buildings but we saw no one around, it was like it was deserted.

    We arrived early at about 5 so after getting comfy we sat in the dining hall and chatted together with Dil Man's Canadian group, it was only the 6 of us staying at the lodge so we were able to be as loud with our laughter as liked.
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  • Dag 66

    Day 4 - Manaslu trek

    9 april, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

    Unfortunately, today was not a good day to begin with for me. We had a tasty breakfast in our dining hall and then headed out. The trail began with most of the morning on a steep uphill, and I was not feeling strong today. It felt like all the energy had gone from my muscles, and my feet felt like lead. I'm a slow walker and usually at the back, but today I was really falling behind. At one point, I had a wobble and burst out crying, thinking I couldn't do it. "This is so hard, why am I doing this?" But once I'd dried my eyes and received some amazing encouragement and love from James, I was able to carry on and put those negative thoughts behind me.

    For lunch, we stayed at a very picturesque tea house with babies and children playing as we ate, who were really sweet to watch and interact with. We also all took the opportunity to take off our shoes and re-energize after a long walk. The afternoon passed much better for me; even though it was still uphill, I got into a rhythm, popped in a podcast, and was able to steadily tackle any incline. We passed through some beautiful forests and walked next to the rushing river rapids.

    When we arrived at that evening's tea house in Namrung, at 2,600m, we were all thoroughly pooped and looking forward to peeling off our socks. We also met up with our old guide from Langtang, Dil Man, who was related to our guide and from the same village. We caught up and found we'd be walking with his group from Canada for the next day.

    We ate a delicious dinner, pizza for me and Dal Bhat for James, and then enjoyed a large slice of homemade apple cake we'd purchased from the trailer earlier. Afterwards, after no Wi-Fi or signal since starting the trek I managed to tether off our guide's tiny bit of data and let me family know I was alive and likely wouldn't be contactable until after the trek.

    With it starting to get colder we snuggled down into our sleeping bags and went off to bed ready for a early start tomorrow.
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  • Dag 65

    Day 3 - Manaslu trek

    8 april, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    After a decent night's sleep, we were up and packing at 6.30 am to have breakfast and be out promptly. Cecelia and I shared porridge and some Tibetan bread. She also contributed some Skippy peanut butter and cinnamon which we sprinkled on the porridge and smeared all over the Tibetan bread which, with some jam, was a fantastic treat.

    We began the trek feeling really good, our legs strong and our energy up. Just outside the town, I remembered I forgot my phone charging at the teahouse so James jogged back to fetch it, which was a lot faster than I would have been. The start of the walk was on the unused road and then we crossed our first suspension bridge of the day; we got onto some proper walking paths. This trek has had us pass through a lot more villages with women and small children going about their usual business and men on the trail either with their mules loaded up or just walking between the villages.

    We had to share a few of our suspension bridge crossings with sheep, being shepherded across the valley which was quite funny as most of them would freeze in the middle probably from sheer panic at the height until the shepherd got them to move on.

    We stopped for lunch early at 11 am as there were no good lunch spots further on. After lunch as we rounded a corner of the path, a guy told our guide that we'd better move quickly because they were going to dynamite the mountainside opposite our path to build the road. I haven't hiked that fast before in my life. We did not want to be anywhere near an explosion that could have caused a landslide on our opposite slope. After 20 minutes of fast walking, we made it to the next sentry where there were quite a few trekkers and locals with their flocks being held back, waiting for the explosion to proceed. We continued and 1 hour later we heard the boom echo through the valley, very thankful we were nowhere near it.

    After crossing our highest suspension bridge yet, we got into some more wooded area which was very picturesque and tranquil.

    With about 45 minutes until our final destination, I began to run out of energy. James said it was like watching someone in slow motion. I still had good spirits though and felt ok, just moved very slowly. We had been walking for 9 hours by this point, about 18 km, and I later saw I'd done 34,000 steps.

    Our teahouse for the night is in Deng, which is at 1870m. SO cute! It's got a large front garden area with seating and then the rooms are arranged into a kind of courtyard. The main dining room was very large and laid out almost like a proper restaurant. It even had a TV playing animal documentaries!

    We ate some delicious Dal Bat again and Cecilia had a pizza; all the food looked particularly delicious here. We had some of the local wine which put us all in a jolly mood and we laughed about one thing or another until we all got sleepy and headed to bed.

    We have another long day tomorrow but I'm optimistic as I woke up stronger and had more endurance than the last day, so hopefully, this will repeat for tomorrow.
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  • Dag 64

    Day 2 - Manaslu trek

    7 april, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Let the trekking begin! I was really warm going to bed so only went to bed in my silk liners, but I woke up very early at 4 am in the night, cold and couldn't get back to sleep. Just when I was dozing off though, it was 7 am and we had to be down for breakfast. I ate Thumpa porridge with apple and banana, which is a type of cereal oat that Nepalese eat instead of oats. It looks like brown sandy sludge but it was very tasty.

    We began for the first few hours hiking along the road, which had barely any cars using it so it was pretty peaceful. Once we crossed our first bridge to the path, it began to get interesting. Some bits were quite rocky, some smoother but by lunchtime, I was desperate for a break. My feet were aching and the sun was warm. After a good sit down in the shade and some grub, I felt much better. In the afternoon, the clouds came in so it felt a bit cooler which was nice.

    However, we came to a section where there had been a landslide a long time ago and the path was very narrow with a pretty steep drop below, plus it was quite rocky and steep. After a while, I really began to feel my vertigo. James, ever the best man in the world, was right behind me encouraging me and giving his support. It was a relief to have that section done and back onto larger ground. We were then rewarded with a spectacular walk through the dried riverbed, which was all pure white sand with HUGE cliffs on their side, it was magnificent.

    We finally made it to our beds for the night in the village of Jaget, at 1300m. We sat on our beds just processing how tired our feet, calves, and shoulders were before taking a cold shower and getting warm in our clothes. We had a lovely dinner of Dal Bat chatting to Cecilia and Mitra about the trek ahead. At 7.30 pm, we were falling asleep at the table and heading to bed.
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  • Dag 63

    Day 1 - Manaslu trek

    6 april, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We started our day early by waking up at 5.30 to be at the microbus stop at 6 am. We had a quick hot drink with our host Thumpten, who gave us a bag of apples and bananas in place of breakfast. His mate, the taxi driver, then took us to the bus stop, where we were immediately swamped by the microbus agents, one of whom grabbed my bag from out of the back of the taxi and began taking it over to his vehicle. I got it back, and the taxi driver helped us buy an official ticket at the ticket counter to make sure those jacked-up guys didn't overcharge us. We settled into a minivan-type vehicle, aka a microbus, which had seats enough for 15 people, (seats arranged as 2/3/3/3/4) with two other ladies sitting at the very front. We took off with the sliding door wide open and our conductor calling out "KATHMANDU" to any loitering pedestrian. Basically, people just hop on and pay him and then try to fit in as many people as possible even if there are not seats/space; it's up to the person if they want to get in. We quickly accumulated a full bus with all seats taken, but then more people got squeezed onto rows with 5 people sitting on the three-person row at one point.

    The driver was going SO fast and overtaking whenever any inch presented itself. As we made good time, we got stopped by a small accident that blocked the road and a mini-landslide at one of the many construction points, which held us up for at least 20-30 minutes.

    We finally arrived in Mugling where we were meeting our guide and other hiker and joining them in their proper bus from Kathmandu for the rest of the way. While we were waiting, we ate at the cleanest, most hygienic restaurant I've ever encountered. When you entered, the waitress sprayed your hands with sanitizer and directed you to leave your bigger bags on a table at the front, and they were all wearing masks. It was like COVID was still a thing. But the bathrooms were immaculate and had signage on how to use the Western ones and thick, clean toilet paper, and all motion sensor water and soap dispensers. It was heaven. The food was average, but the masala chai was strong! We were shaking and jittery from the caffeine hit.

    Eventually, the bus from Kathmandu arrived with our guide, Mitra, and I was sat next to our hiking partner Cecilia from Sweden. She's very friendly and lovely, and I think she will be great company. James sat next to a guy who manspread the whole trip and who kept falling asleep on his shoulder.

    Just when you think you can't experience a worse bus ride in Nepal, you experience a worse one. The road quickly got very steep, and the bus was really struggling, and then the road turned to dirt for the last 2 hours, which meant tons of erosion, landslides, and narrow roads with cliff drops on one side. I had to just look away after a while as staying engaged was giving me a lot of anxiety that we'd fall off. We finally made it to our village for the night, Machhakhola, which sits at 800m above sea level. Our rooms are simple but good, and after getting to know each other better, we showered and headed to bed for an early night after a very long day.

    P.S. Cecilia told us the tip to not cry when peeling onions: you should stick your tongue out. Please, someone try it and let us know if it works!
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