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Camino Del Norte 2017

June - July 2017
A 29-day adventure by Mick Read more
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  • Mick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017
    Day 10

    Camino Del Norte - Day 10

    June 18, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 10

    Noja to Santander
    Distance 26km (7 hours)
    Ascent/descent ..who cares!

    I went off piste today to get to Santander. The guide offers differing routes but the state of my right foot, I decided to take the direct route. Unfortunately, this meant I've 20+km of road walking. It means though that I have gained a day and will claim a rest day in Santander as a reward...hurrah!!!!
    I had a very early night in the Albergue in Noja. It was very basic. Someone's alarm went off at 5.45am. They kindly went back to sleep. I go up feeling rested and with a mission. I chatted briefly to a French couple I've met several times on the Camino and got on my way.
    I passed several drunken spaniards winding their weary way home as I passed through the village. The sunrise was a welcome site. Photo attached.
    The rest of the morning was uneventful, expect for slogging out the kilometres along CA-141 to Somo. I am glad that I set out early as the temperature eventually rose to 30+C .
    I paused briefly 5km short of Somo at a bakers shop. Coffee and cake. This was really welcome after a tough mental and physical few hours of walking. Whilst delighting in my coffee and watching grass lizards scurrying around; all of a sudden, there was a bish/bosh and the lizard was gone.....taken by a flipping hawk that landed three feet away of me. I ended up with the coffee in my lap.
    I finally arrived in Somo and was directed by kind locals to the ferry to Santander. For the cost of 2.8 euros and a 20 minute crossing, it saved me 12 kilometers on the road. I arrived in Santander at 1.30pm and depend the best hour finding my hostel for the next two days. The city feels amazing but that could be the delirium of having a whole day to rest my feet.
    My hostel is located to the ferry port, bus and train station. Cheap and clean. What more does a peregrino need.

    Hasta luego folks.

    Thank you all again who have donated to B.I.R.D and now the pics from today.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017
    1
    Day 11

    Rest Day in Santander

    June 19, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Rest day on Camino Del Norte in Santander

    I spent the morning replacing lost items on the Camino - towel, iPod cable and toiletries.
    I wandered around the city and watched the city gentry commission a stunning new building on the waterfront. No peregrinos allowed.
    I managed to get my hair cut or rather was scalped....
    I met up with a fellow peregrino Mikey. He arrived today. We had a couple of drinks and parted company as I have to get my stuff ready for another big day on the Camino tomorrow.
    Tomorrow promises to be another hot one so I will have to have an early start. I have around 500kms to get to Santiago.

    Anyway, enjoy the pictures.

    Don't forget that I am walking the Camino in aid of the fantastic work B.I.R.D do. Please go the the just giving site under my name and give anything. Every penny counts.

    To all you who already already done so, a BIG thank you.

    Hasta luego.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017
    Day 14

    Camino Del Norte - Day 11

    June 22, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 11
    Santander to Santillana Del Mar
    Distance 32.5km (7 hours)

    I set off at 6.30am this morning from Santander. There seemed to be a lot of pilgrims on the Camino. A very pleasant walk out of the city contrary to the guidebook.
    By 9.30am, I was 15 km into the walk when I had to catch a train. The journey was only 5 minutes long but took me over a river estuary to another village. By not taking it would have added another 10km onto my day.
    I eventually arrived in Santilana village around 2pm. The heat on the road to the village was 30C. I thought that my shoes were going to melt.
    The village is stunning. It is a wonderfully preserved medieval stone village. I honestly expected knights in armour to charge down the street. The place was packed with tourists. The Albergue is tiny only 16 beds. I managed to get one but we had to wait until it opened at 4pm.
    There was an elderly loud English couple who had obviously been drinking too much. As we came to register, the gentleman fell face first onto the ground. Everyone went to help. I grabbed the first aid kit from the hospilardo and treated his wounds. In the end, everyone kept asking me if I was a doctor. The drunk couple went into one of the dorms, I went in the other. Later, the same bloke fell in the showers. I avoided them the rest of the evening.

    I had a pleasant meal with a couple of pilgrims before retiring to bed.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017
    Day 14

    Camino Del Norte - Day 12

    June 22, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 12

    Santilana Del Mar to San Vicente De La Barquera
    Distance 34km (7.5 hours)
    Total ascent 440m

    I had a great night's sleep in my tiny Albergue. I set off at 5.45am primarily thanks to someone's alarm going off to 'I will survive'.
    A few of us were out the door in the dark. I walked alone for a few hours until I met a French couple I previously walked with. We spoke for a short time and I got on my way.
    Today was very much my Camino day. I spent a lot of time reflecting on my life and relationships. It really slows walking down and a lot of time is spent internal dialogue.
    I passed through the still sleep villages.
    Nowhere was open even for a coffee. By 9.30am, I covered 15km and arrived at a stunning beach near Cobraces. I sat there for 15 minutes just marvelling at the place and chatting to an Italian couple from the Albergue the night before.
    This seemed to break me out of my thoughts and I set out with a lighter heart.
    By midday, I arrived at my destination Comillas for the day but mdecided to buy some lunch in a supermarket and carry on for another 10 kilometers to a small vfishing village called St. Vicente De La Barquera. I am really glad that I did. The Albergue was situated high above the town close to a 13th century Gothic church called Santa Maria de Los Angeles. It holds the tomb of the Inquisitor Antonio del Corro. The village is also dominated by the ruins of 8th century castle.
    The Albergue hospilardo couldn't do enough to help us.
    An English peregrino and I went for an early meal. I had an amazing sea bass dish. When I got back to the Albergue, I met a German girl who I had walked with on the Camino France's two years ago. We had a chat for about an hour before I turned in.

    I don't know what/where I would end up tomorrow    Read more

  • Mick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017
    Day 15

    Camino Del Norte - Day 13

    June 23, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 13

    San Vicente De La Barquera to Llanes
    Distance 41km !!!! (8.5 hours)
    Total ascent 150m

    What a new day brings. I hadn't really planned where I was going to stop today but it certainly was not this place called Llanes. 41km later.
    I had a light breakfast in the Albergue at 6.30am and chatting to two Italians guy I met In another albergue. The usual question where are you walking today, I answered casually 'oh, where my feet take me'.
    We set off with a young Spanish couple and were soon walking at a blistering speed. By 9.30am, we were in a town called Colombres which was the end of the section in the guidebook. We carried on.
    They were a lovely group and we had a great time chatting away in limited English and my even more limited Spanish.
    We clearly enjoyed each other's company and the kilometers raced past until the last 10kms. We were very tired but carried on. We arrived in Llanes absolutely exhausted. Thankfully, one of the guys rang ahead and booked us into this fantastic Albergue.
    We went for a meal before going to the Albergue as we were starving. It was fantastic. We have a Pergrinos bond and the meal was fantastic.
    Admin completed as soon as we got to the Albergue. Blogs done, I am off for a nap.

    Hasta luego.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017
    Day 15

    Camino Del Norte - Day 14

    June 23, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 14

    Llanes to Ribadesella
    Distance 30km
    Total ascent 16om

    Last night, our little international group met in the town to look at the Cuba de la Memoria. This celebrates the history of seafaring.
    We then went to a Sideria bar to try the local cider. The waiter pours the cider from an arm's length into a glass. When they are bored of that, they give you an amazing machine which does the job. It was a lovely evening as Anna and David explained the Asturias culture.
    We were all set for another day on the Camino. Our little band set off at 6.30am in drizzle. The weather got progressively worse so it was one of the first time for jackets. We walked along the stunning coastline until we stopped around 9.45am for breakfast. There were already a number of pilgrims also waiting for the coffee. The doors open at 10am and we all charged in.
    By this time, we had walked 14km. We carried on the Camino passing through small villages and pausing to watch black kites and other birds of prey (don't ask me what they were). We also conversed in a mixture of English, Italien and Spanish. It was amazing as we all understood each other but to achieve this, we had to do charades and google translate.
    We finally arrived in Ribadesella at 1.45pm and found our pension for the night. I am sharing a room with one of the Italian guys Andrea.
    We immediately went out for our lunch and hoovered it up. A German lady on the next table to us in the restaurant was intrigued with the composition of our group and how we were enjoying each other's company.
    My walking shoes died today. I have worn the soles down to material n two weeks. There was no protection left in them. I am now the proud owner of Gucci green/grey Columbia walking shoes. They were the ONLY shoes in my size (13s). There were no clown shoes or barges left before you ask.

    Tomorrow is another 31.5km to Sebrayo.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017
    Day 16

    Camino Del Norte - Day 15

    June 24, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 15
    Ribadesella to Sebrayo

    Distance 31.5km (7.5 hours)
    Total ascent 420m

    Last night, Andreas and I went for an evening meal which consisted of Sidre, chorizo and calamari. We sadly said goodbye to our Spanish friends Anna and David. They have to return to Madrid to work. I really enjoyed their company over the last two days. Our little group won't be the same.
    Andrea and I set off at 6.30am and met the usual Spanish revellers making their way home.
    My new shoes feel fantastic and we were quickly racking up kilometers along the coastline. The scenery was stunning. We kept dropping down into little coves where people were staying overnight in their vans and surfers going out for their first surf of the day.
    It was very overcast and the Picos of Europe mountains were shroud in mist. We eventually got to a coastal town La Isla where we stopped for breakfast. Rain threatened but after putting on our jackets and cooking, it was more preferable to walk without in the drizzle.
    The Camino was a lovely mixture of quiet lanes and mud tracks. We stopped briefly in a town called Colunga where I used my Spanish to post a letter home. I was very proud that my Spanish evening classes were paying off.
    We eventually caught up with Nicole, Andrea's Italian friend. He walked a little further yesterday because of bed shortages. We walked the last 5km together to the rural Albergue in Sebrayo.
    We stopped briefly to look at the pre-Romanesque Church of San Salvador in a village called Priesca. It is one of the oldest churches on the Camino and was built in 921AD.
    We arrived at 1.30pm and decided to call it a day. Admin completed, the lovely hospilardo direct us to a fantastic restaurant a kilometres away on top of a hill where we enjoyed some amazing seafood and wine.
    There are only four of us booked in for tonight in the Albergue. It has only cost 4 euros. A grocery van has just arrived and we have bought some Sidre and snacks for tonight.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017
    Day 18

    Camino Del Norte - Day 16

    June 26, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 16

    Sebrayo to Cabuenes
    Distance 27km
    Total ascent/descent 660m

    All four of us left our little rural Albergue at 6.30am and quickly starting ticking the kilometers off. We arrived in a small town called Villaviciosa. It is the apple capital of Spain and renowned for it's cider (Sideria).
    Just after this town, we hit a pivotal point on the Camino. We have walked over 500km and the Camino divides into the Del Norte and south on the Primitivo. We stayed on the Del Norte.
    The only problem was we hit a 450m hill that went up and up over 0.5km. It was a real struggle getting up the lump.
    We dropped down the other side through eucalyptus forests into a village called Peon. We stopped for a coffee and sandwich. The sandwich was something to behold. It was 3 foot long and was quickly hoovered up by two of us.The only problem was that we had another flipping 400m hill after that.
    Regular peregrinos faces appear throughout the day. We decided to call it a day after 27km at the only place to stay which was a campsite. The place was packed but peregrinos were put up in tiny wooden shacks/chalets. Six of us so you can imagine how cosy we were.
    Four of us went for a pilgrim's meal in the camp restaurant. It looked like food but wasn't that pleasant. We ate it because we needed it but dessert was indescribable...awful! After everyone had a taste, we all left it.

    Tomorrow, we have 33kms to walk. I am not looking forward to it.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017
    Day 18

    Camino Del Norte - Day 17

    June 26, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌫 19 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 17

    Cabuenes to Aviles
    Distance 35km (8 hours)
    Total ascent 220m

    My Italian friends and I left our shack at 6.30am. It was raining and continued all day. We could have swam to Aviles.
    The walk into Gijon (pronounced Hehon) was pleasant. We flowed the river bank to the playa. After a short breakfast, we had the very long and very boring walk out of the city. We passed through a very industrialised area. Not pleasant. As usual, we came to yet another steep hills which lead to a long ridge. This ridge was in the low cloud. There were no facilities for the next 16km as we walked through woodland. No one was in a talkative mood as we just wanted to get it over and done with. Some days on the Camino are just like that.
    We eventually got to the outskirts of Aviles and had to negotiate some very busy and dangerous road junctions.
    We arrived at the Albergue like drowned rats but received a warm welcome. I have washed my clothes and rested.
    The forecast for the next few days promises storms and more rain. We have a 39km day tomorrow which will be a long day.
    I learnt that a fellow Irishman on the Camino fell and broke two ribs two days ago. He has left the Camino to travel by train to Santiago. I am sorry that his Camino is over.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017
    Day 19

    Camino Del Norte - Day 18

    June 27, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Aviles to Soto de Luna
    Distance 40km
    Total ascent 670m

    An enjoyable evening in the Albergue. I spent sometime catching up with peregrinos I know and meeting new ones.
    A large group of young and old decided to prepare a huge communal meal. They produced a banquet complete with wine and Sidre. Their antics added to the general chilled out atmosphere in the Albergue. People were helping others understand how the spinning machine worked to ensure that they had a chance of getting their clothes dry in time for tomorrow morning.
    Everyone seemed to be apprehensive about this stage because of the distance involved. There were only a few places to stay. It seemed the race was on for beds.
    The first peregrinos left at 4.30am; the next wave left at 5.30am. One was kind enough to shine his head torch directly into my face. now awake, I lay for a time and eventually got up.
    Nicol (Generalismo), Andreas, Bepe and I left at 6.15am. The sky was black and heavy with rain. We wandered through the city, winding our way into the countryside. The Camino markers were poor and took us onto some busy roads. This made for scary walking. I was glad to be part of this group as we really looked out for each other. Eventually, the heavens opened up with distant thunder. It was a case of waterproofs, ponchos and some even had umbrellas.
    We quickly racked up 20km before we stopped for breakfast. Our plan to stay at an Albergue was dashed late morning as we learnt that Albergue was full. It simply meant that we now had to walk 40km today. Andreas looked shocked when we told me but quickly fell in line like the rest of us and just got on with it.
    In these cases, you try to walk with a rhythm. I was singing Irish folk songs and swinging my walking piles around. The Italian guys must gave thought that I was mad. We also passed the time just chatting.
    The last two hours was torture. We were exhausted. Thankfully, the rain stopped and the sun broke through. The temperature rocketted like someone turned the oven on. Not pleasant, when you are wet, sweaty peregrino.
    Jerry, from Northern Ireland joined us for the last few kilometers into our final destination.
    We had to register at a bar in the village. As I was filling in the required register California Dreaming came on the jukebox. I burst end out laughing and was looking around for my old pal Al Cox.
    We arrived at our still being renovated Albergue. We were obviously first to arrive as we had choice of bottom bunks. This is a very important point that all peregrinos know. It is hard work trying to get up to the top bunk. It is even harder nay life threatening in the middle of the night.    Read more

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