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Camino Del Norte 2017
  • Mick Byrne
Jun – Jul 2017

Camino Del Norte 2017

A 29-day adventure by Mick Read more
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  • Trip start
    June 9, 2017
    Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte -Day One

    June 9, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day One
    Irun to San Sebastián
    Distance 26.5km
    Total Ascent 710m Descent 720m (And don't my legs know it!)

    First of all, thank you very much for supporting me in raising some money for the BIRD charity. See my just giving page for details.
    Today began with catching a 7.30am bus from Bilbao to Irun on the French/Spanish border. A great journey but made me realise how hilly this route is going to be. The bus wound it's way through the narrow valleys with villages, farms and industries all jostling for space. There were lots of low dark clouds hanging on top of the hills.
    Finally arrived at Irun station at 9.15am so after a quick cup of coffee and a croissant, off I went on my merry way trying to find the yellow arrows to begin the Camino Del Norte.
    It is only 860km to Santiago De Compostela. I must be off my head.
    I promptly got lost until a friendly alberque manager found me and put me on the path.
    The guide book makes it sound easy. It's not!
    It does say that the first day is probably the most spectacular. It offers incredible views from the high ridge and passes Neolithic dolmens, medieval towers and castle ruins.
    The only problem is that you have to get on the ridge. Almost 700m straight up.
    Thankfully, it was slightly overcast which kept the temperature at around 21c. I, however, was at gas mark 6 for most of the day.
    It was an amazing day with stunning views. A long climb out of Irun followed by a long descent into Pasal Donibane where I caught a small ferry (70 cents) across the harbour with some other perigrinos.
    The numbers of pilgrims are increasing on the Del Norte as the Camino France's appears to be getting busier. 368,000 walked the Camino France's last year.
    After crossing the harbour, it was another long slog up the other side for 700m. I dragged my sorry body up another ridge and back down the other side into the beautiful seaside town of San Sebastián/Donostia. I wound my way through the town trying to find the Albergue with no luck and finally decided that life was too short and I was too tired, so I have checked into a lovely hotel.
    Washed and admin done. I am about to go and find ANYTHING to eat.

    Don't expect future blogs to be so long.

    Do donate to my just giving page for B.I.R.D. It may encourage me to post more pictures etc. Thank you for your support and messages of encouragement. I have a feeling I am going to need them.....😎    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017
    1

    Camino Del Norte - Day 2

    June 10, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Day 2 - Camino Del Norte
    San Sebastián to Getara
    Distance 25km
    Total ascent/descent 520m

    Another hot day 26C. I was gas mark 8 judging by the amount of water I drank today. 6 litres would be a good guess.
    I set off from my hotel in San Sebastián at 7am and walked along the promenade to be meet by the aftermath of the Spanish kids partying all night. They were still stood outside some of the now closed bars. .
    As usual, the yellow Camino arrows disappeared. Eventually got on the way to be met with a 500m ascent. Just the sort of thing you need first thing in the morning.
    Once on the ridge, I walked on minor undulating roads and through fantastically shaded woods. I met a few peregrinos and chatted briefly. I also walked briefly with two English ladies who decided to experience a short walk on the Camino. They seemed in awe of actually meeting a peregrinos. Just as well that they were stood upwind of me as they would not have enjoyed the essence of a pilgrim.
    Mainly views of the Bay of Biscay followed until after another long descent, I arrived in a lovely village called Orio (not the chocolate biscuit).
    I stopped for a brief lunch and followed the estuary to the sea. You've guessed it, another flipping steep incline. By the time, I got to the top I was absolutely knackered and the full heat of the day was beginning to take it's toll.
    I decided that this was far enough as I was outside a camp site recommended in my guidebook. Alas, flipping guide books lie. No places for peregrinos on the campsite.
    There was a stunning view from the campsite over Zarautz and onto Getaria around the other end of the bay.
    I followed the steep drop down onto the beach front and made my mind up to walk another 7km to Geteria. I already knew that all the albergues in Zarautz were full. The promenade was beautiful and the beach was packed out. I got a lot of funny looks and the Spanish have a habit of bumping into me. They generally lose particularly with my 10kg rucksack.
    I followed the coastal path to Geteria and got into this stunning town just as a triathlon was starting out. An amazing site and included in my photographs.
    I wound my now weary way through the town towards the albergue and you guessed it again....another steep incline.
    I arrived at 2.30pm after 7.5 hours of walking. The kind hospilado gave me a wonderful chilled slice of melon.
    Admin sorted. Clothes washed and hanging out to dry. Feet are okay. Small blister on each foot which I am not surprised at considering the amount of time on roads and cobbles.
    Planning my next section tomorrow. Should be around 25km passing a town called Deba. I will likely carry on a further 5Km to a hamlet called Ermita Del Calvario (great names).

    Weather is showing 26C again tomorrow and it is Sunday so food may be scare.

    Hasta luego.

    Again, thank you for supporting B.I.R.D

    If you haven't please think about it. Go to the just giving site under Mick Byrne and it explains why I am doing this.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017
    1
    3211

    Camino Del Norte - Day 3

    June 11, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 3
    Distance 22km. Time taken 5.5 hours.
    Total ascent/descent 640m

    I walked around Getaria last night. It was a small bustling town. I enjoyed a few pinoxs and watching the basques playing handball in the square. A lovely atmosphere.
    I returned to the albergue to find the place packed with Spanish kids. Extra beds were put up and confusion reigned. Thankfully, I had all my admin completed.
    Eventually, everything settled down and I was in bed for 9.30pm. Walking in this heat is exhausting.
    If any of you have stayed in an albergue, you will remember that unique small of sweaty clothes and kit everywhere.
    It was a very warm night but I had a fitful sleep until someone's alarm went off at 5.30am. Someone else's alarm went off every 10 minutes. By 6am, I lost the will to stay in my bunk. I simply had a quick wash and was out the door into the dawn and fresh air.
    It was a beautiful day and I could feel the temperature rising.
    As usual, it was a case of struggling up and down hills all day.
    I have fallen into the usual perigrino routine, stopping for lots of water breaks and consuming my cheese and bread sat on a picnic table.
    Eventually, I arrived in a beautiful town called Zumaia and marvelled at the 15th century Church of San Pedro.
    I continued on my merry way and struck up a conversation for the next few kilometres with a German kid walking the Camino before starting nursing training. She was delighted to hear about my daughter path to nursing.
    As usual, the day involved walking with Italians , Spanish and even a fellow countryman.
    I finally arrived in Deba around noon and initially planned to carry on for another 5km to an albergue in the middle of nowhere. This involved another 60m ascent onto the ridge out of town. Everyone seemed to be in the same frame of thought. We all checked into the Albergue de Pergrinos for 5 euros.
    It is actually part of the train station and bang in the middle of town.
    A number of us shared a washing machine and dryer to get our kit cleaned. All admin done, I am off to explore Deba.
    Tomorrow, I will leave the coast for a time to make my way to Markina-Xemein. It is a remote part of the Camino with 930km over 23km with little or no facilities.
    In another three days, I will be in Bilbao.

    Thank you for your support and donations to B.I.R.D
    It means a lot to me and the small charity I am supporting.

    Buen Camino.

    Chris, a big thank you for your generous donation. 😎    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 4

    June 12, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 4

    Deba - Markina Xemein
    Distance 23km
    Total ascent 915m
    Total descent 830km.

    I wandered around Deba which is a small basque provincial town. I had a wonderful squid and octopus salad followed by a hake dinner. (Note Jackie Crank - no beer)
    The town's beach was lovely. Lots of surfers but a very strong tidal way. Some of the pilgrims went for a swim. I paddled. Lovely on well worn feet.
    The Albergue was full last night but excellent facilities. All for 5 euros. They even turned away a large group of Spanish kids. I thought we were on a winner but it was very warm overnight. Someone beat even me in the snoring competition. I used my anti snoring device so was quiet as a church mouse. The other guy nearly got lynched.
    As a result of the snore fest, most of us in my room were up and out the door at 6.15am.
    We left the coast for a few days to walk inland.
    Unfortunately, it was lashing rain. It did have one advantage of feeling fresh and cool. I set off alone and straight away into a long steep ascent.
    The rain continued most of the day. So no pictures of the landscape as it was either raining heavily or I was in the cloud base.
    I stopped around 9am for a breakfast of bread, cheese and chorizo. There were no refreshments points on this entire section so all peregrinos were advised to stock up. There weren't many watering points either.
    I eventually ended up walking with my fellow Irishman again and chatting to peregrinos from Italy, USA, Holland and Spain.
    Sections of the path were steep and very muddy. My shoes have taken a battering. We eventually got into Markina Xemein around 1am. We sat and lay on our rucksacks across the road while we waited for the Albergue to open at 3pm.
    We all shared the remains of our food on a poncho. It was interesting finding out about other people's stories. Most peregrinos are walking sections because of time and work constraints. We have already picked out each other out who are aiming to walk the whole Camino.
    The hospilardos have been kind and really looked after us. This Albergue is by donation only and breakfast included. All my admin is completed.
    I have included photographs of Deba beach and tonight's stop in Markina Xemein.
    Tomorrow, we walk to Gernike. During the Spanish civil war, Franco used Hilter and Mussolini's airforces to destroy the town.
    Hopefully, the weather will improve. My feet are holding up well. One blister only but my shoes have taken a battering. Looking at the soles, they MIGHT get me to Santiago?

    Thank you for your generous support of B.I.R.D.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 5

    June 13, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 5

    Markina Xemein - Gernika

    Distance 25km (7hours)

    Total ascent 440m Descent 515m

    WiFi is limited with some locations. Today, I set off at 6.45am with the fellow Irishman and an American guy I have hooked up with. A fast pace was set even over some steep hills.
    The weather was ideal. It was cool and overcast. We stopped for a short time at a medieval monastery called Monasterio De Zenarruza. It was a stunning location. We sat in the porch way listening to the monks chanting prayers at mass. It was wonderful. A lot of Pergrinos joined us eating their breakfast and just smiling at the amazing chants.
    We carried on to a village called Munitibar where we stopped for morning coffee. I also had a leek cake which consisted of egg, garlic and leek. It was amazing. Photo attached.
    En route, we also saw a stage for holding competitions where a horse or ox drags a huge stone weight across a distance.
    The day warmed up and we hit a few very steep hills before descending into Gernika.
    The hospilardo in the youth hostel gave us a fantastic welcome. There are very strict hygiene rules here.
    A quick wash, I was out the door to visit Gerika museum which was dedicated to peace. It was a moving moving account of Franco destroying the town and the murder of innocents during the Spanish Civil war.
    A rushed tea followed and early to bed as I will leave at 6am tomorrow morning for Bilbao. Unfortunately, it is 35.5km away so it will be a LONG day.

    Thank you all for your generous donations to B.I.R.D    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 6

    June 14, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 6

    Gernika to Bilbao
    Distance 35.5km (9 hours)
    Total ascent 835m descent 825m

    Our merry band of 3 set off at 06.30am this morning. I didn't sleep much overnight as I was disturbed by mosquitos buzzing around my head and a very loud thunder storm overnight. It did help to dampen down the noise of snoring.
    Thankfully, it was cool and the storm had passed. We walked through Gernika past a copy of Pecaso's famous work.
    We were joined by a young Dutch kid who couldn't pick up the Camino signs leaving the town. We got her to join us. We continued climbing a very steep hills through eucalyptus and pine trees.
    Facilities were very limited on the Camino. We meandered our way into a village called Larrabetzu. By this time, we were 17km into our long day and we were starving. Our refuge, a small cafe, was closed. We ended up sitting outside eating our fund rations from our pack. This was near a bus stop where several buses bound for Bilbao stopped. We all looked at each other daring the other to say that we should simply take the bus.
    We didn't and carried on another 3.5km to find a cafe in Lezama packed with peregrinos including a number we have got to know when I started this trip.
    We were now just over halfway through the day but the heat was building up. Suncream, glasses and sun hats applied.
    We carried on paved roads to Zamudio where we watched planes land at Bilbao airport. We then had a 400m hill to negotiate before catching our first panoramic view of the city.
    Spirits were raised as we slowly made our way into the city. We passed the Cathedral in the old city and appeared to attract a lot of attention as peregrinos. It really was a wise move staying away from us. We reeked after 9 hours of walking on the Camino.
    We parted company with our American friends Mickey. He checked into a pension and is spending a few days in Bilbao catching up with old friends and hopefully his host family from 1999. Hopefully he will rejoin me afte that. His knowledge of the Basques is fantastic. Each day, he has come out with nuggets of information.
    Three of us are staying in a basic Albergue near the train station in Bilbao. We are all very tired and footsore. We have made arrangements to have our clothes washed and dried which takes a lot of pressure off us.
    My feet are holding up well. My shoes, on the other hand, look worn out. The sloes are wearing away. Ah well, time will see.....

    Tomorrow should be an easier day but I may have stiff muscles. I walk to Pobena along the banks of the Rio Nervion.

    Thank you all again for your support. I am really grateful to supporting B.I.R.D. If you want to find out more about their amazing work, just look at my just givin    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 7

    June 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 7
    Bilbao - Pobena
    Distance 28km
    Total ascent/descent 250m (6 hours)

    Today was a relaxed day. Shane and I set off from the Albergue at 8am. We walked along the river past the amazing Guggenheim museum.the day was very overcast with a light drizzle. We followed the river towards it's estuary and Puente Colgante in Portugalete. We crossed the river using a suspended carriage for pedestrians and vehicles.
    As any major city, the Camino ran alongside motorways and through industrial estates. Shane and talked about everything. We stopped for lunch on an old pier.
    One highlight for a foot sore peregrino was the street escalator system in Portugalete that took us up steep hills.
    Between Portugalete and Pobena, there were no facilities. It was still very boring until we finally returned to the coast.
    Pobena is a small Spanish town. The small Albergue is packed with a lot of pilgrims I have not seen before. I have joined a lady who has walked from Paris (5weeks so far) and a Japanese lady walking to Santiago.
    To date, I have walked 182km in seven days. I have a few blisters but overall I am in good form.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 8

    June 16, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 8

    Pobena to Islares
    Distance 25km (7 hours)
    Total ascent 300m

    An enjoyable peregrinos meal last night with pilgrims from Germany, La Reunion and Spain. Three courses and wine (not for me) for the princely sum of 10 euros.
    We were packed in like sardines last night in the Albergue. Thankfully, it was a cool night and no snorers.
    Shane and I were one of the first out the door at 6.15am onto the Del Norte. The path Initially followed an old iron ore railway line through tunnels and the cliff edge.
    As we got to Onton, we parted company as the Camino offered an inland choice or stay on the coastline. I stayed with the coast which meant walking close to a motorway for a couple of hours. Not pleasant but needs must.
    I eventually arrived in a stunning town called Castro-Urdales which is dominated by the Church of Santa Maria de la Asuncion and a castle. The church is one of the Norte's finest Gothic churches.
    I joined some locals for brunch in a small cloistered cafe before setting off over the hills towards Islares. I saw over 20 Griffin vultures floating on the thermals near the cliffs edges.
    Islares is a small village with not a lot to offer. I am staying in a metal hut for peregrinos. Basic but somewhere to put my had down. The Albergue is closed.
    Tomorrow, I will walk to Laredo and may go a little further to Santona. This will involve a short ferry across to Santona.

    Thank you all for your donations to B.I.R.D and your fantastic support and messages.

    Buen Camino.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Islares - Mi Casa por esta noche

    June 16, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Sharing with Tymon from Dortmund. All for the princely sum of 10 euros.

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 9

    June 17, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 9

    Islares to Najo
    Distance 36km
    Total ascent/descent 410m

    I set out this morning at 6.30am. The morning was beautiful and cool to start with. The main part of the morning was road walking which murders your feet. The best part was arriving at my planned destination at 9.30am. Not bad for 20ish kilometres. I stopped for breakfast and decided to carry on to where my feet carried me.
    The beach at Laredo is beautiful with hundreds of holiday makers walking along the surf line. I joined them in my smelly peregrinos kit walking in my bare feet.
    After three kilometres, I caught a small ferry across the estuary and just carried on.
    I had to cross two more stunning beaches before reaching a 200m hill that I had to go over. By now, breakfast had worn off so I sat on top of the cliff admiring the stunning views while I had some bread and chorizo.
    I arrived at my Albergue for the night at 2pm. I am knackered but pleased with the distance covered. My right foot is blistered which isn't good.
    There are a few faces, I recognise from other albergues, but they have got here by bus or taxi.
    Tomorrow, I plan a shortish 22km walking to a place called Somo where I will catch a ferry to Santander. I am planning to take a rest day there to rest up my feet and replace somethings I have lost.

    Thank you for your encouragement and donations to B.I.R.D.

    Hasta luego    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 10

    June 18, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 10

    Noja to Santander
    Distance 26km (7 hours)
    Ascent/descent ..who cares!

    I went off piste today to get to Santander. The guide offers differing routes but the state of my right foot, I decided to take the direct route. Unfortunately, this meant I've 20+km of road walking. It means though that I have gained a day and will claim a rest day in Santander as a reward...hurrah!!!!
    I had a very early night in the Albergue in Noja. It was very basic. Someone's alarm went off at 5.45am. They kindly went back to sleep. I go up feeling rested and with a mission. I chatted briefly to a French couple I've met several times on the Camino and got on my way.
    I passed several drunken spaniards winding their weary way home as I passed through the village. The sunrise was a welcome site. Photo attached.
    The rest of the morning was uneventful, expect for slogging out the kilometres along CA-141 to Somo. I am glad that I set out early as the temperature eventually rose to 30+C .
    I paused briefly 5km short of Somo at a bakers shop. Coffee and cake. This was really welcome after a tough mental and physical few hours of walking. Whilst delighting in my coffee and watching grass lizards scurrying around; all of a sudden, there was a bish/bosh and the lizard was gone.....taken by a flipping hawk that landed three feet away of me. I ended up with the coffee in my lap.
    I finally arrived in Somo and was directed by kind locals to the ferry to Santander. For the cost of 2.8 euros and a 20 minute crossing, it saved me 12 kilometers on the road. I arrived in Santander at 1.30pm and depend the best hour finding my hostel for the next two days. The city feels amazing but that could be the delirium of having a whole day to rest my feet.
    My hostel is located to the ferry port, bus and train station. Cheap and clean. What more does a peregrino need.

    Hasta luego folks.

    Thank you all again who have donated to B.I.R.D and now the pics from today.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017
    1

    Rest Day in Santander

    June 19, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Rest day on Camino Del Norte in Santander

    I spent the morning replacing lost items on the Camino - towel, iPod cable and toiletries.
    I wandered around the city and watched the city gentry commission a stunning new building on the waterfront. No peregrinos allowed.
    I managed to get my hair cut or rather was scalped....
    I met up with a fellow peregrino Mikey. He arrived today. We had a couple of drinks and parted company as I have to get my stuff ready for another big day on the Camino tomorrow.
    Tomorrow promises to be another hot one so I will have to have an early start. I have around 500kms to get to Santiago.

    Anyway, enjoy the pictures.

    Don't forget that I am walking the Camino in aid of the fantastic work B.I.R.D do. Please go the the just giving site under my name and give anything. Every penny counts.

    To all you who already already done so, a BIG thank you.

    Hasta luego.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 11

    June 22, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 11
    Santander to Santillana Del Mar
    Distance 32.5km (7 hours)

    I set off at 6.30am this morning from Santander. There seemed to be a lot of pilgrims on the Camino. A very pleasant walk out of the city contrary to the guidebook.
    By 9.30am, I was 15 km into the walk when I had to catch a train. The journey was only 5 minutes long but took me over a river estuary to another village. By not taking it would have added another 10km onto my day.
    I eventually arrived in Santilana village around 2pm. The heat on the road to the village was 30C. I thought that my shoes were going to melt.
    The village is stunning. It is a wonderfully preserved medieval stone village. I honestly expected knights in armour to charge down the street. The place was packed with tourists. The Albergue is tiny only 16 beds. I managed to get one but we had to wait until it opened at 4pm.
    There was an elderly loud English couple who had obviously been drinking too much. As we came to register, the gentleman fell face first onto the ground. Everyone went to help. I grabbed the first aid kit from the hospilardo and treated his wounds. In the end, everyone kept asking me if I was a doctor. The drunk couple went into one of the dorms, I went in the other. Later, the same bloke fell in the showers. I avoided them the rest of the evening.

    I had a pleasant meal with a couple of pilgrims before retiring to bed.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 12

    June 22, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 12

    Santilana Del Mar to San Vicente De La Barquera
    Distance 34km (7.5 hours)
    Total ascent 440m

    I had a great night's sleep in my tiny Albergue. I set off at 5.45am primarily thanks to someone's alarm going off to 'I will survive'.
    A few of us were out the door in the dark. I walked alone for a few hours until I met a French couple I previously walked with. We spoke for a short time and I got on my way.
    Today was very much my Camino day. I spent a lot of time reflecting on my life and relationships. It really slows walking down and a lot of time is spent internal dialogue.
    I passed through the still sleep villages.
    Nowhere was open even for a coffee. By 9.30am, I covered 15km and arrived at a stunning beach near Cobraces. I sat there for 15 minutes just marvelling at the place and chatting to an Italian couple from the Albergue the night before.
    This seemed to break me out of my thoughts and I set out with a lighter heart.
    By midday, I arrived at my destination Comillas for the day but mdecided to buy some lunch in a supermarket and carry on for another 10 kilometers to a small vfishing village called St. Vicente De La Barquera. I am really glad that I did. The Albergue was situated high above the town close to a 13th century Gothic church called Santa Maria de Los Angeles. It holds the tomb of the Inquisitor Antonio del Corro. The village is also dominated by the ruins of 8th century castle.
    The Albergue hospilardo couldn't do enough to help us.
    An English peregrino and I went for an early meal. I had an amazing sea bass dish. When I got back to the Albergue, I met a German girl who I had walked with on the Camino France's two years ago. We had a chat for about an hour before I turned in.

    I don't know what/where I would end up tomorrow    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 13

    June 23, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 13

    San Vicente De La Barquera to Llanes
    Distance 41km !!!! (8.5 hours)
    Total ascent 150m

    What a new day brings. I hadn't really planned where I was going to stop today but it certainly was not this place called Llanes. 41km later.
    I had a light breakfast in the Albergue at 6.30am and chatting to two Italians guy I met In another albergue. The usual question where are you walking today, I answered casually 'oh, where my feet take me'.
    We set off with a young Spanish couple and were soon walking at a blistering speed. By 9.30am, we were in a town called Colombres which was the end of the section in the guidebook. We carried on.
    They were a lovely group and we had a great time chatting away in limited English and my even more limited Spanish.
    We clearly enjoyed each other's company and the kilometers raced past until the last 10kms. We were very tired but carried on. We arrived in Llanes absolutely exhausted. Thankfully, one of the guys rang ahead and booked us into this fantastic Albergue.
    We went for a meal before going to the Albergue as we were starving. It was fantastic. We have a Pergrinos bond and the meal was fantastic.
    Admin completed as soon as we got to the Albergue. Blogs done, I am off for a nap.

    Hasta luego.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 14

    June 23, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 14

    Llanes to Ribadesella
    Distance 30km
    Total ascent 16om

    Last night, our little international group met in the town to look at the Cuba de la Memoria. This celebrates the history of seafaring.
    We then went to a Sideria bar to try the local cider. The waiter pours the cider from an arm's length into a glass. When they are bored of that, they give you an amazing machine which does the job. It was a lovely evening as Anna and David explained the Asturias culture.
    We were all set for another day on the Camino. Our little band set off at 6.30am in drizzle. The weather got progressively worse so it was one of the first time for jackets. We walked along the stunning coastline until we stopped around 9.45am for breakfast. There were already a number of pilgrims also waiting for the coffee. The doors open at 10am and we all charged in.
    By this time, we had walked 14km. We carried on the Camino passing through small villages and pausing to watch black kites and other birds of prey (don't ask me what they were). We also conversed in a mixture of English, Italien and Spanish. It was amazing as we all understood each other but to achieve this, we had to do charades and google translate.
    We finally arrived in Ribadesella at 1.45pm and found our pension for the night. I am sharing a room with one of the Italian guys Andrea.
    We immediately went out for our lunch and hoovered it up. A German lady on the next table to us in the restaurant was intrigued with the composition of our group and how we were enjoying each other's company.
    My walking shoes died today. I have worn the soles down to material n two weeks. There was no protection left in them. I am now the proud owner of Gucci green/grey Columbia walking shoes. They were the ONLY shoes in my size (13s). There were no clown shoes or barges left before you ask.

    Tomorrow is another 31.5km to Sebrayo.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 15

    June 24, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 15
    Ribadesella to Sebrayo

    Distance 31.5km (7.5 hours)
    Total ascent 420m

    Last night, Andreas and I went for an evening meal which consisted of Sidre, chorizo and calamari. We sadly said goodbye to our Spanish friends Anna and David. They have to return to Madrid to work. I really enjoyed their company over the last two days. Our little group won't be the same.
    Andrea and I set off at 6.30am and met the usual Spanish revellers making their way home.
    My new shoes feel fantastic and we were quickly racking up kilometers along the coastline. The scenery was stunning. We kept dropping down into little coves where people were staying overnight in their vans and surfers going out for their first surf of the day.
    It was very overcast and the Picos of Europe mountains were shroud in mist. We eventually got to a coastal town La Isla where we stopped for breakfast. Rain threatened but after putting on our jackets and cooking, it was more preferable to walk without in the drizzle.
    The Camino was a lovely mixture of quiet lanes and mud tracks. We stopped briefly in a town called Colunga where I used my Spanish to post a letter home. I was very proud that my Spanish evening classes were paying off.
    We eventually caught up with Nicole, Andrea's Italian friend. He walked a little further yesterday because of bed shortages. We walked the last 5km together to the rural Albergue in Sebrayo.
    We stopped briefly to look at the pre-Romanesque Church of San Salvador in a village called Priesca. It is one of the oldest churches on the Camino and was built in 921AD.
    We arrived at 1.30pm and decided to call it a day. Admin completed, the lovely hospilardo direct us to a fantastic restaurant a kilometres away on top of a hill where we enjoyed some amazing seafood and wine.
    There are only four of us booked in for tonight in the Albergue. It has only cost 4 euros. A grocery van has just arrived and we have bought some Sidre and snacks for tonight.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 16

    June 26, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 16

    Sebrayo to Cabuenes
    Distance 27km
    Total ascent/descent 660m

    All four of us left our little rural Albergue at 6.30am and quickly starting ticking the kilometers off. We arrived in a small town called Villaviciosa. It is the apple capital of Spain and renowned for it's cider (Sideria).
    Just after this town, we hit a pivotal point on the Camino. We have walked over 500km and the Camino divides into the Del Norte and south on the Primitivo. We stayed on the Del Norte.
    The only problem was we hit a 450m hill that went up and up over 0.5km. It was a real struggle getting up the lump.
    We dropped down the other side through eucalyptus forests into a village called Peon. We stopped for a coffee and sandwich. The sandwich was something to behold. It was 3 foot long and was quickly hoovered up by two of us.The only problem was that we had another flipping 400m hill after that.
    Regular peregrinos faces appear throughout the day. We decided to call it a day after 27km at the only place to stay which was a campsite. The place was packed but peregrinos were put up in tiny wooden shacks/chalets. Six of us so you can imagine how cosy we were.
    Four of us went for a pilgrim's meal in the camp restaurant. It looked like food but wasn't that pleasant. We ate it because we needed it but dessert was indescribable...awful! After everyone had a taste, we all left it.

    Tomorrow, we have 33kms to walk. I am not looking forward to it.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 17

    June 26, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌫 19 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 17

    Cabuenes to Aviles
    Distance 35km (8 hours)
    Total ascent 220m

    My Italian friends and I left our shack at 6.30am. It was raining and continued all day. We could have swam to Aviles.
    The walk into Gijon (pronounced Hehon) was pleasant. We flowed the river bank to the playa. After a short breakfast, we had the very long and very boring walk out of the city. We passed through a very industrialised area. Not pleasant. As usual, we came to yet another steep hills which lead to a long ridge. This ridge was in the low cloud. There were no facilities for the next 16km as we walked through woodland. No one was in a talkative mood as we just wanted to get it over and done with. Some days on the Camino are just like that.
    We eventually got to the outskirts of Aviles and had to negotiate some very busy and dangerous road junctions.
    We arrived at the Albergue like drowned rats but received a warm welcome. I have washed my clothes and rested.
    The forecast for the next few days promises storms and more rain. We have a 39km day tomorrow which will be a long day.
    I learnt that a fellow Irishman on the Camino fell and broke two ribs two days ago. He has left the Camino to travel by train to Santiago. I am sorry that his Camino is over.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 18

    June 27, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Aviles to Soto de Luna
    Distance 40km
    Total ascent 670m

    An enjoyable evening in the Albergue. I spent sometime catching up with peregrinos I know and meeting new ones.
    A large group of young and old decided to prepare a huge communal meal. They produced a banquet complete with wine and Sidre. Their antics added to the general chilled out atmosphere in the Albergue. People were helping others understand how the spinning machine worked to ensure that they had a chance of getting their clothes dry in time for tomorrow morning.
    Everyone seemed to be apprehensive about this stage because of the distance involved. There were only a few places to stay. It seemed the race was on for beds.
    The first peregrinos left at 4.30am; the next wave left at 5.30am. One was kind enough to shine his head torch directly into my face. now awake, I lay for a time and eventually got up.
    Nicol (Generalismo), Andreas, Bepe and I left at 6.15am. The sky was black and heavy with rain. We wandered through the city, winding our way into the countryside. The Camino markers were poor and took us onto some busy roads. This made for scary walking. I was glad to be part of this group as we really looked out for each other. Eventually, the heavens opened up with distant thunder. It was a case of waterproofs, ponchos and some even had umbrellas.
    We quickly racked up 20km before we stopped for breakfast. Our plan to stay at an Albergue was dashed late morning as we learnt that Albergue was full. It simply meant that we now had to walk 40km today. Andreas looked shocked when we told me but quickly fell in line like the rest of us and just got on with it.
    In these cases, you try to walk with a rhythm. I was singing Irish folk songs and swinging my walking piles around. The Italian guys must gave thought that I was mad. We also passed the time just chatting.
    The last two hours was torture. We were exhausted. Thankfully, the rain stopped and the sun broke through. The temperature rocketted like someone turned the oven on. Not pleasant, when you are wet, sweaty peregrino.
    Jerry, from Northern Ireland joined us for the last few kilometers into our final destination.
    We had to register at a bar in the village. As I was filling in the required register California Dreaming came on the jukebox. I burst end out laughing and was looking around for my old pal Al Cox.
    We arrived at our still being renovated Albergue. We were obviously first to arrive as we had choice of bottom bunks. This is a very important point that all peregrinos know. It is hard work trying to get up to the top bunk. It is even harder nay life threatening in the middle of the night.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 19

    June 28, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 19

    Soto De Luna to Luarca
    Distance 35.5km (10 hours)
    Total ascent 370m

    Our little band of peregrinos set off from the Albergue at 6.30am. My international band consisted three Italians, one Northern Ireland , a German and me.
    The kind hospilardo gave us a complex briefing the night before on the confusing fechas (yellow arrows) and the best route to take. Unfortunately, some people didn't listen and then got angry because the hospilardo got peeved off repeating himself.
    We quickly set off up into the hills and onto the coastal route. Although, it has rained overnight and there were very dark clouds on the horizon, our first few hours were stunning on the Camino. We chatted away as we made our way up and down ancient sunken lanes, through eucalyptus forests and along lane ways. Locals greeted us with waves, beeping car horns and waving insanely at us.
    We stopped briefly for breakfast around 9.30am. We had already been walking for 3 hours. The weather took a turn. It was either absolutely glorious or lashing with rain.
    En route, we stopped near a cliff top view point called Novellana. It was stunning. Everyone's spirit just lifted. It was incredible. Here we were, a small group of peregrinos who threw themselves into this adventure and we sharing this wonderful experience. Little did we know that this was change......
    We eventually arrived in a town called Cadavedo around midday after walking 20km but descending/ascending into numerous stunning bays and back up to the minor roads. We practically raided a little grocery store for food and drink while we waited for Nicol (Generalismo) to arrive. Unfortunately, he developed a hip pain and could no longer carry on. Gerry from Northern Ireland also decided to call it a day. We said our farewells in the Albergue and carried on. Our little intrepid group now down to four.
    The weather took a real turn for the worse. It was now pocho time as rain storms rushed in from the Bay of Biscay. We had to shelter behind trees because of the driving rain.
    We eventually arrived in a small fishing town called Luarca. It is a stunning location. We were lucky enough to get the few remaining bed in the Albergue. Admin completed, we were out immediately for tea and cake (no medals) and to buy food for the trail tomorrow.

    I hope you enjoy today's pictures. It was probably my best day on the Camino in some many ways. I am only sorry to say goodbye to some great people.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 20

    June 29, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 20
    Luarca to La Caridad
    Distance 31km (7 hours)
    Total ascent 340m

    As usual, our little intrepid gang set off at 6.30am from the Albergue. Luarca was a pretty town with a history for whaling and for caching a 30m octopus.
    The morning threatened rain again as dark clouds raced in from the Bay of Biscay. We walked through narrow country lanes and meandered our way through small woods. It was lovely to see swallows/swifts using the buffeting winds to feed off insects in the fields. As usual, black kites hunted above us.
    We stopped late morning for a Pergrinos breakfast. This consists of cafe con leche (coffee with milk), orange juice and a ham bocadillo. All for 3.50 euros. The place was busy with peregrinos.
    Around midday, we passed through Navia. There was a lovely market taking place. I found an old vagrant who looked like a peregrino. I ended up emptying all my change into his cockle shell.
    We crossed a long bridge and into more rural countryside. We only had 10km to go. It was simply a case of head down and keep going. The weather changed all the time from sunshine, a chilly wind or downpours. I lost count of the number of times my waterproofs came out.
    Around 1.30pm, we arrived at our little Albergue in La Caridad. It is a new Albergue with just 18 beds. It only costs 5 euros.

    Tomorrow, I will walk through the city of Ribaedo to a town called Vilela. It will be the last time I will follow the coast before entering Galicia and beginning the walk towards Santiago. To date, I have walked over 600km.

    Thank you all again for your fantastic donations.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 21

    June 30, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 21

    La Caridad to Ribadeo
    Distance 23 km (5 hours)
    Total ascent 70m

    Last it 16 peregrinos settled down in our little Albergue located at the edge of the village. Nine of us went to a local restaurant for an evening meal. The Albergue hospilardo also worked in the restaurant. Before I even sat down, he handed me a bottle of Guiness! Hooray....
    We had a pleasant meal but found out that the Albergue in Vilela is shut. This was 5km past Ribadeo. There are only twelve beds in a tiny Albergue in Ribadeo. We decided to get up at 5am and set off at 5.30am.
    Overnight, the weather was shocking. You could hear torrents of water running off the roof. I woke before 5am and checked my guidebook. I made the decision to walk the road to Ribadeo as the Camino would be treacherous in terms of mud, flooding and the general awful terrain. The rest were in agreement.
    We set off but only got 100m before we found a cafe open which is really unusual. We all piled into the cafe for coffee.
    We set off a short time later in the downpour and set off at a pace. Three hours later, we were 7 kilometers from Ribadeo after I set a cracking pace for our group.
    By now, we needed breakfast and luckily found a truck stop where we took a short break.
    The rain continued lashing down. We just wanted to get to the Albergue and hope that the hospilardo would let us in early. We crossed the Ria de Ribadeo and saw the town ahead. We are in Galicia. We couldn't believe we had covered the distance so quickly.
    The Albergue was open. No one was there. We quickly showered and changed. Bepe, one of the Italians, had to leave us to catch a bus further along the Camino in order to catch a flight later next week. Our little band is now three, Claudia (German), Andreas (Italian) and l.

    Tomorrow, we leave the coast to walk to Santiago. It is a week away. ........

    Thank you all for your support.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 22

    July 1, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 22

    Ribadeo to Lourenza
    Distance 27.5km (7.5 hours)
    Total ascent 710m

    My stay at the Ribadeo Albergue was excellent. I decided to go on another short walk, without a rucksack, to the nearby headland. I am so pleased that I did. The views were fantastic. The bad weather had finally broken and the coast was bathe in sunshine.
    Evening meal was shared with my German and Italian peregrinos. We had break, cheese, red wine with gazoela (similar to Sprite).
    An early night as we were up for 5.30am and on the Camino for 6am. The sky was very black and threatening to rain again. Thankfully, it stayed away. The first few hours, we were climbing constantly through small hamlets and eucalyptus forests. The views were stunning. We had our last few of the Bay of Biscay.
    After 5 hours of walking, we finally found an open cafe in Villamartin Grande. We were starving.
    After large coffees and some food, we were ready to carry on. As we climbed another hill, a deer burst out through the undergrowth six feet in front of us. It looked at us and straight across the path to disappear again.
    We arrived at the Albergue in Lourenza at 1.30pm. We had our pick of beds and use of showers etc before the rest of the hoards arrive.
    Lourenza is a small sleepy town. It's highlight is the 10th century Benedictine Monasterio De San Salavador. It's facade is by the same architect who was also responsible for the Cathedral of Santiago's facade.

    Tomorrow means more hills and a slightly shorter way to Gontin.

    Buen Camino    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino Del Norte 2017

    Camino Del Norte - Day 23

    July 2, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Camino Del Norte - Day 23

    Lourenza to Gontan
    Distance 24km (7 hours)
    Total ascent 740m

    Last night, we settled down to a light supper but got talking to other peregrinos. One was the lovely GG from France. She was 69 and was two months on the Camino starting from Le Puy. She was an incredible lady. This was her fifth Camino after completing Via De La Plata, Caminos Frances and Portuguses. She has walked over 2,000km in two years. She walked at an incredible speed.
    We set off at 6am this morning with head torches. We met another Australiam guy almost immediately on top of a hill coming out of Lourenza. He had no head torch and there were dogs I a nearby field unchained. Once, we got past him, we went on our merry way. The day seemed to be one long climb ALL day to 740m.
    After 8.5km, all the usual peregrinos , i have got to know, seemed to gather in a city called Mondonedo. We found a cafe open next to it's 13th century cathedral and filled it to bursting. The cafe owner was run for his feet. It made a welcome break to the continual uphill climb.
    Andreas was suffering with tendinitis and was limping. GG gave him a short leg massage in the cafe. This is the true spirit of the peregrinos on the Camino. We share food, water, wine and chocolate.you can easily identify the peregrino in cafes/restaurant and invite/be invited to join a table to eat.
    We eventually walked to the end of a long valley and had another long ascent upwards. We finally arrived at an ultra modern Albergue in a small town called Gotan.
    We have carried out daily admin out and are resting before we have a long day tomorrow. We will walk to Baamonde (40km) away.    Read more

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