On this trip, we are joining a group of Swiss friends for a week of hiking in the Lake Lucerne region of Switzerland, followed by a 9-day round-trip river cruise to Budapest, Hungary. Læs mere
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  • Day 10 – Tour of Lungern (Hans)

    5. juli, Schweiz ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    This morning, we said goodbye to our cozy hotel in Sachseln, which had been our home for the past five days. Initially, we had planned to head toward Zürich and spend our final day there before the river cruise. But when our friend Hans Vogler invited us to stay an extra day so he could give us a personal tour of his hometown, Lungern - how could we possibly say no?

    Hans welcomed us at Matti, his rustic mountain cabin perched high above Lungern, accessible only by a narrow dirt road. The cabin, with its two bedrooms, kitchen, and bathroom, sits in a picture-perfect setting at the edge of the forest and alpine meadows, and the gentle sound of cowbells in the distance.

    After a short break, Hans loaded us into his off-road Rubicon Jeep and took us even higher into the mountains. From there, we continued on foot for about 45 minutes through peaceful alpine pastures, eventually arriving at a remote hunting cabin and lookout point, with a spectacular view over Lungern and its emerald-blue lake below.

    Hunger caught up with us on the way back, so we stopped at the Bahnhof Restaurant in Lungern for a late lunch. I had a small mixed salad topped with a pair of Wienerli sausages, served with mustard and fresh bread - simple, flavorful, and just what I needed.

    In the afternoon, Hans took us on a personal memory tour. We visited the homes of the original baker, butcher, dairy, attorney, hairdresser, plumber, saddler, carpenter, and where he grew up. Nestled right on the lake was the home of his brother Hans-Sepp. It was a warm, sunny Saturday, and the Lungernsee was alive with activity - swimmers, kayakers, and paddle-boarders enjoying the pristine waters.

    Our final stop was Gasser Felstechnik AG, one of Lungern’s industrial gems. Specialists in rock and tunnel engineering, they’re known for their ambitious alpine construction projects.

    Hans gave us a peek into one of their most fascinating endeavors - Brünig Indoor, a massive underground complex carved into the mountain. Part of it serves as a sophisticated shooting range for military and sporting use, while another section houses a gourmet restaurant. Good white wine, grilled veal sausage, and mixed salad satisfied our dinner appetite.

    What a day - full of natural beauty, local pride, and unexpected discoveries. Lungern, through Hans’s eyes, became a place of many insights, charm, and history dating back to the year 1291. 🇨🇭
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  • Lake Lucerne - view from Brunnen

    Day 11 – Farewell to the Mountains

    6. juli, Schweiz ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    Today marked a transition—from alpine serenity to our next adventure.

    We said goodbye to the stunning mountain scenery of Lungern and began our journey toward Zurich, driving along the picturesque shores of Lake Lucerne.

    Midway through our road trip, we stopped in Brunnen, a charming lakeside town rich in Swiss history, located near the site where Switzerland was founded in 1291. It offered the perfect backdrop for a light lunch and a final breath of mountain air.

    By early afternoon, we reached our stopover point: the Holiday Inn Express near Zurich Airport. It’s a practical and comfortable base for the night.

    Tomorrow at 8:30 AM, a bus will take us to Passau, Austria—the starting point of our 9-day Danube River cruise.

    Next Destination: Budapest, Hungary!
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  • Cruise Day 1 - Passau, Germany

    7. juli, Tyskland ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    Today, the rain finally caught up with us.

    Our bus departed Zürich Airport right on time at 8:30 AM and transported us to Passau, Germany, where our river cruise began. The ride itself was uneventful—smooth and comfortable, but with limited views thanks to the rain. Many passengers were dozing, others getting acquainted with their fellow travelers. And even though the bus had Internet, hardly anyone used their electronic devices. We made just one rest stop and a quick lunch break, arriving in just under six hours.

    Funny, the restrooms at the rest stop were payable (75 cents), but if you purchase something at the shop or food court, they reimburse you 50 cents 😅.

    We’re a group of eight among 71 passengers on board - most are 55+ like us. The Excellence Empress is a sleek, modern river cruise ship launched in 2020. It can accommodate up to 178 guests in 89 cabins, with a crew of 46 attending to our needs.

    Once on board, we were welcomed with a champagne toast, followed by the captain’s greeting and safety briefing. Then came dinner. In my case, I started with spicy beef tartar, followed by sea bass with vegetables and couscous. Everything was delicious, and the service was top-notch. The ice cream dessert was an excellent finish.

    There are two musicians & singers on board for our entertainment 🎼.

    Tonight, the Excellence Empress will cruise toward Linz, Austria, with arrival expected around 1:30 AM.

    Unfortunately, tomorrow’s forecast shows a full day of rain. Let’s see what it brings.
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  • Cruise Day 2 - Linz, Austria

    8. juli, Østrig ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    It rained nonstop today, the 2nd day of our round-trip river cruise to Budapest, Hungary.

    While many passengers decided to stay on board our vessel, Excellence Empress, I initially thought I wanted to brave the weather. I put on my raincoat, grabbed an umbrella, and stepped off the ship… only to find my pants and shoes starting to get wet within minutes.

    At that point, I decided: no, thank you—today’s city tour of Linz wasn’t worth sticking to my bravery! However, Ursula left with the rest of the group, even though she wasn't feeling well this morning. 🇨🇭Power to Ursula!

    Instead, I stayed cozy on board, read up on the town’s fascinating history online, and snapped a few moody photos through the rain from our cabin window, while Ursula toured the old city with the group and visited the ARS Electronica Center.

    Fingers crossed for sunshine tomorrow!
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  • Cruise Day 3 - Vienna, Austria 1

    9. juli, Østrig ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Last night, our cruise director, Christopher, gave us a lively and informative introduction to Austrian history and culture, preparing us for our two days in Vienna.

    I already knew Austria had a rich and powerful past—centuries of empire, art, music, and influence—but I didn’t realize just how central it was to European history. At the heart of the Habsburg Empire, Austria dominated large parts of Central Europe for centuries. Rather than expanding through conquering new territories and war, Austria used strategic marriages to grow their empire. One surprising fact - Archduke Maximilian of Austria became Emperor of Mexico in the 1860s. As they say, you’re never too old to learn something new.

    Our ship docked in Vienna shortly after breakfast. A bus took us into the historic city center, where we started a guided walking tour. The weather wasn’t the best—cloudy and a bit windy—but thankfully, it stayed dry. We passed by many grand old buildings, monuments, and wide boulevards that reminded us just how majestic this city once was (and still is).

    One of the highlights of the day was a stop at the famous SLUKA Coffee House, where our friend Hans treated us to hot chocolate and a slice of classic Sacher Torte - delicious.

    Back on board, we had a light lunch, then spent the afternoon unwinding on the upper deck, enjoying the peaceful view until it was time for dinner.

    A leisurely evening walk along the Danube riverbank completed our first day in Vienna.
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  • Cruise Day 4 - Vienna 2

    10. juli, Østrig ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Today, no scheduled excursions appealed to us, so we decided to head out on our own to explore Vienna on foot. Beni, Elisabeth, and Hans joined us for the adventure.

    Our destination was the famous Naschmarkt, about a 72-minute walk from the Danube. Along the way, we noticed how clearly marked the pedestrian and bike paths were—and how disciplined you need to be to navigate them properly. Crossing the street without waiting for the green pedestrian light can cost you a €30 fine! The roads were impressively clean, well-maintained, and organized.

    At one point, we passed through a neighborhood filled with Japanese, Korean, and Thai restaurants - a tempting area for food lovers. However, when we finally reached the Naschmarkt, we were somewhat disappointed. Instead of a vibrant, local market, we found rows of tourist-focused restaurants and shops selling sweets, spices, cheese, olives, and souvenirs. It felt more like an Austrian version of the Zouk market in Marrakesh than the authentic Viennese experience we had hoped for.

    Just as we were deciding what to do next, it began to rain. Fortunately, we found a nearby subway station and made our way back toward the cruise ship, arriving just in time for lunch.

    Later in the afternoon, after a short nap and catching some of the Wimbledon semi-final between Sabalenka and Anisimova on TV, the skies cleared. We joined fellow passengers on the sun deck to watch our ship pass through a lock. A two-man band played and sang as we observed the fascinating process. So far, we’ve passed ten locks on this journey, most of them at night while we were sleeping.

    This evening, Ursula signed us up for a sushi dinner in the lounge. Only about two dozen passengers joined in, making it a cozy and relaxed affair. The food was delicious and beautifully presented. As we dined, the Excellence Empress quietly crossed the border from Austria into Slovenia.

    By the time we wake up tomorrow morning, we’ll be docked in Budapest, Hungary—a new country and a new chapter in our river journey.
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  • Cruise Day 5 - Budapest 1

    11. juli, Ungarn ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    At 8:00 AM, we gathered on the sun deck for a brief introduction to Budapest by our cruise director, Christopher. Over the next two days, we’ll be exploring Hungary’s capital—a city with a fascinating but complex history.

    Budapest was officially established in 1873 with the unification of Buda (on the west bank of the Danube) and Pest (on the east bank), now connected by ten bridges. After World War II, Hungary came under Soviet occupation and endured decades of economic hardship. Although the country gained independence in 1989 and joined the European Union later on, it has struggled to reach the prosperity levels of its Western neighbors.

    Hungary still faces challenges such as low wages, a growing urban-rural divide, and demographic decline. Corruption, dependence on foreign investment, and reliance on imported energy further complicate long-term growth. Many young Hungarians are seeking better opportunities abroad, especially in Austria, Germany, and the UK.

    A bus took us into the heart of the city, where we explored several landmarks on foot, including the impressive St. Stephen’s Basilica. From a visitor’s perspective, Budapest felt less vibrant than some of the other cities we’ve seen on this trip. It was also evident that economic constraints are a reality here. The official language is Hungarian—famously difficult to learn—and the currency is the Forint (current rate: approximately 342 Forint to 1 US dollar).

    After lunch, I felt low energy, and my knees were bothering me, so I opted for a restful nap while the others in our group visited Margaret Island on the Danube.

    Tonight, we signed up for a special dinner in the ship’s aft restaurant. The menu is titled “Orient trifft Okzident”—“East Meets West”—curated by chef Moses Ceylan. It promises a fusion of Middle Eastern and European flavors and techniques. I’m curious to find out what culinary surprises await!

    (Dinner photos were added at 9:30 PM)
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  • Cruise Day 6 - Budapest 2

    12. juli, Ungarn ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    We skipped the official excursions today—none of the options really appealed to us, and Ursula wasn’t feeling well in the morning.

    So instead, I took the opportunity to visit the Great Market Hall, Budapest’s largest and oldest indoor market. Housed in a striking neo-Gothic building, it’s spread over three levels. The ground floor is packed with fresh produce, Hungarian paprika, sausages, meats, wines, and handmade souvenirs. Upstairs, I wandered through stalls selling traditional street food and local crafts. In the basement, I stumbled upon an Aldi supermarket and picked up some Italian plums—Ursula’s favorite!

    It was a great way to soak up some authentic Hungarian flavors and culture under one historic roof.

    I made it back to the ship just in time for lunch with the group. Ursula spent most of the day resting, while I enjoyed the sunshine on the upper deck. It was a beautiful afternoon to watch the ever-changing landscape and the lively Saturday buzz along the Danube as the Excellence Empress sailed upstream toward the Esztergom Basilica, en route to our next stop: Bratislava.

    Dinner began at 7:30 PM in the Excellence Restaurant, where Table 19 is reserved for our group: Peter, Hans, Freddy, Beatrice, Bernhard, Elisabeth, Ursula, and me.

    Tonight’s Apéro:
    • Unicum (the Hungarian cousin of Appenzeller)

    Tonight’s Menu:
    • Shrimp Cocktail
    • Salad
    • Duck Breast
    • Créme Bruleé with Raspberry Sorbet
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  • Cruise Day 7 - Bratislava, Slovakia

    13. juli, Slovakiet ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    We were jolted awake twice during the night, likely from the Excellence Princess nudging the sides of a lock as we passed through one of the many on this stretch of the Danube.

    By morning, the crew had tied us up at Dock 45 in Bratislava, just in time for breakfast.

    Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, is a compact and charming city with just under half a million residents. Tucked near the borders of Austria and Hungary, scenic vineyards, rolling hills, and peaceful forest trails surround it. The city’s 18th-century pedestrian-only old town is full of cobblestone streets, bustling cafés, and inviting little shops.

    From its perch above the Danube, the Bratislava Castle offers panoramic views of the city and river. It’s a striking sight—and one of the highlights of our visit.

    Interestingly, Bratislava is also a central hub for the automotive industry. Volkswagen, Audi, Porsche, Škoda, and SEAT all manufacture cars here, employing around 12,300 people in the city alone. Across Slovakia, additional factories build Jaguar, Land Rover, and Kia vehicles. The success of this industry stems from two major factors: lower labor costs compared to Western Europe and a strong tradition in technical education and engineering. The country currently enjoys a low unemployment rate of just 2.4%.

    We took a guided city tour this morning, and to our surprise, we enjoyed it even more than Budapest. The elegant homes nestled in the hills above the city boast breathtaking views of the Danube. The historic center was a delight to explore, with well-preserved architecture and a friendly, relaxed atmosphere. Our visit to Bratislava Castle was a treat as well. And yes, I couldn’t help but notice the Hunter sprinkler heads on the castle lawn—and Hunter drip irrigation tubing around the shrubs and flower beds. Some habits die hard!

    The ship's crew did a fantastic job serving a Gala Dinner.

    On the health front, Ursula started a new medication and is thankfully feeling a little better today. I’ve come down with a scratchy throat, though—hopefully nothing serious. Fingers crossed we’re both back to full speed soon again!
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  • Cruise Day 8 - Krems and der Donau

    14. juli, Østrig ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    Boy, are we getting spoiled today!

    This morning, we took a guided walking tour of Krems, a small town with a charming Old Town full of cobblestone streets, colorful buildings, and the famous Steiner Tor city gate. It has a cozy, fairy-tale feel, and we were able to explore the main sights in under an hour. Our guide, as always, was excellent—though keeping up with all the names, dates, and stories over the EarPods is getting tougher at my age!

    After the town visit, our bus took us about 10 kilometers into the hills to Lillis Marillengarten, a family-run apricot farm. (Apricots are called Marillen in Austria.) The fruit was fully ripe, and we got to pick some straight from the trees—sweet, juicy, and delicious.

    Lilli, the owner, gave us a short presentation about the farm and how her family turns apricots into jams, schnapps, and other treats. You could tell she takes a lot of pride in their hard work. After a short film and tasting session, we moved to the little shop, where I picked up a nice souvenir to take home.

    We were back on board the Excellence Princess just before noon. Once everyone was accounted for, we set off toward our final destination: Passau, Germany.

    I skipped lunch and all the other offers on the program today—still full from last night’s big gala dinner—and spent most of the afternoon resting in our cozy cabin. Still dealing with a bit of a cough, so it was nice to relax and not be a nuisance to the other guests on board.

    The open-air concert with Gion & Claudio on the sun deck was fantastic! Gion plays the acoustic guitar and writes his songs and music. Claudio plays the electronic keyboard. The sound and echo as the Excellence Empress passed through the concrete walls of the lock in Melk was quite an experience!
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