Bilbao Spain

mai - juni 2023
This vacation trip started on Tuesday, May 23, 2023, in Bilbao with a group of friends, intending to explore the North Coast of Spain, including the coastal mountains, and the Rioja wine region. The trip ended in Bilbao on June 17th. Les mer
  • 24fotspor
  • 1land
  • 26dager
  • 335bilder
  • 2videoer
  • 1,1kkilometer
  • Dag 22

    Burgos - Logroño - Haro

    13. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Today's trip was first through Spain's beautiful countryside with field after field of agriculture. Then the windy routes BU-820 and BU-825 took us on a 50-mile tour through the lush mountains with views of several dammed lakes until we reached the city of Logroño.

    We stopped in a small village for a coffee and bathroom break. More people entered the coffee bar but strangely didn't behave in the usual happy Spanish way. Ursula guessed that they probably came to assemble here after a funeral. Her instinct was correct, as a local gentleman later confirmed - it was a 78-year-old man that had passed away.

    We were met with a heavy 90-minute rain downpour in the middle of the mountains. Kurt needed to drive slower and use caution. Several motorcycle and bicycle riders got soaking wet.

    We are now in the Rioja region with its endless vineyards.

    Logroño is a stop on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. The Cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda has twin baroque towers, an elaborate facade, and an image attributed to Michelangelo. The Cubo del Revellín fortress connects to remnants of the old city wall. Leafy Ebro Park has views of the Ebro River, its arched Stone Bridge, and its 19th-century Iron Bridge. We didn't stay in Logroño for very long. We just had a coffee and a bite to eat. The Tourist Office gave us all the information we needed for tomorrow's visit to the wineries and tasting.

    We are staying at the Hotel Plaza for the next two nights. Our balcony views the Plaza de la Paz in the small wine city of Haro, about 20 minutes North of Logroño.
    Les mer

  • Dag 23

    Haro, Rioja

    14. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Today did not go according to plan.

    Renata was not feeling well (upset stomach) and preferred to stay in bed this morning. Kurt met us alone for breakfast and decided to stay with Renata at the hotel and get some bananas and medication.

    Ursula and I took the van and drove to an area of town with large Bodegas (wine cellars) of well-known winemakers.

    Bodega Muga was the first showroom we visited. It looked adorable and sophisticated. Unfortunately, all the tasting tables were occupied, and since we didn't have a reservation, the wait time would have been about 30 minutes. In addition, the tours to visit the winery were booked out for the day. Thus, we decided to try other places.

    At our next target, Gómez Cruzado, the place was not too busy, and we were promptly seated at a small table in front of rows and rows of new oak wine barrels. We ordered a tasting of five Rioja red wines. It was served with mini toasts soaked in olive oil (to clear our palate between each sample). Our waiter was fantastic and explained each wine clearly, how it differed from the previous one, and the different ways of storing it during fermentation. Stainless Steel or concrete containers are used to keep wine "honest" about how the grapes taste, as opposed to New, and French oak barrels, which add certain flavors.

    Wine #1 - 2022 Rioja of 65% Garnacha, and 45% Tempranillo. It was stored for six months in special pear-shaped concrete containers. We rated it as a #5 on a scale from 1-10.

    Wine #2 - 2017 Viña Porana, 60% Tempranillo, and 40% Garnacha. It was aged two years in French oak barrels from the Southern Rioja region. We rated it as a #6. It was smoother than the previous one.

    Wine #3 - 2017 Honorable, 90% Tempranillo, blended with 10% of 3 other kinds of grapes from the northern region. It was fermented for 18 months in new oak barrels. We rated it a #6+ with solid flavors (excellent to drink with red meat).

    Wine #4 - 2016 Pancrudo (named after the highest Rioja mountain), 100% Garnacha. Single Vinyard. Aged one year in the concrete container. We rated it a #7+.

    Wine #5 - 2011 Gran Reserva. 70% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha. Fermented for four years in French oak barrels. It was very nice and smooth. We rated it an #8+.

    The next Bodegas we visited were López de Heredia, La Rioja Alta, and Manzanos Haro. By 1:45 PM, we felt a little hungry and returned to Bodega Muga for lunch. A glass of Rosé with bread, olives, ham, and sausage was just what the doctor ordered! Yummy. Our waiter was wearing a €36,000 authentic Rolex Deepsea.

    Renata had somewhat recovered by the time we got back to the hotel, and we all decided to go for a stroll through the old town and up to a lookout point from where we could see the river and wine country. It was a warm afternoon, and not a cloud in the sky.

    Tonight's dinner was at the Restaurant Los Caños, within walking distance. Good Rioja, tomato salad, grilled leaks, french fries, eggs w/mushrooms, entrecote, expresso coffee, and the best cheesecake ever!

    We plan a drive through the Rioja wine region tomorrow to our booked Hotel San Camilo in Navarrete, Rioja.
    Les mer

  • Dag 24

    Haro - Rioja - Navarrete

    15. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    Renata was feeling much better after breakfast. We had a fantastic day today!

    The goal for today was to experience the Rioja wine country. We didn’t plan to follow a specific route. The only thing we kept in mind was moving toward Navarrete, where we are staying tonight.

    It was very relaxing to drive a little slower and focus our attention on the incredible views and the beauty of the landscape. Kurt veered off the main road and used narrow gravel roads that led through the vineyards. The vines have many young shoots (light green color), and the grapes are in a tiny developing stage. The grape vines look very healthy, as does all the vegetation that we see here in northern Spain. We see tractors with blowing devices busy spraying the vines with insecticides. We notice that farmers occasionally plant barley between the grape fields.

    The winery of Eugene Ugarte on route N-232a was an exciting place where we spent about 1 hour exploring and walking the entire property, which included grapes processing, fermentation storage, restaurant, gift shop, and hotel. The grounds were kept immaculately - everything was spotless - very impressive. Ursula purchased a bottle of Grappa and Kurt a bottle of wine as souvenirs.

    The drive to the wine capital La Guardia was only 20 minutes. Kurt found a great parking space behind the church. Restaurante Biazeri had outdoor tables shaded under chestnut trees where we stopped for lunch for wine, beer, pintxos, and coffee. The wine region attracts more tourism than the coastal towns we visited earlier. Restaurant and hotel prices are almost double.

    Hotel San Camilo, 1-mile outside of Navarrete, was easy to find, and our dinner at the Restaurant Sala in town was unforgettable. The owner, Tatjana, immigrated 20 years ago from Romania and treated us like family. What a nice dinner and evening to end our vacation in Spain.

    Tomorrow will be our last day. We plan to visit two close-by wineries. One was designed by Santiago Calatrava, and the other by Frank Gehry.
    Les mer

  • Dag 25

    Navarrete - Derio - Bilbao

    16. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    We woke up to a beautiful day with sunshine and blue sky, although the weather App indicated a 30% chance of rain.

    After a lavish breakfast buffet at the hotel, we loaded the van. We navigated through more of Rioja’s vineyards to the winery of Marqués de Riscal in Elciego, where Spanish architect Frank Gehry designed the winery’s hotel. It looked modern and a little crazy, similar to the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. A tour of the winery and hotel was only available in the afternoon for €20 per person. But the wine and gift shop was open and friendly to visitors. Kurt decided to circle the winery in our van to the top of a hill with a vineyard from where we saw the crazy Gehry creation. The side of the hotel and roof have colorful bent sheet metal. See the photos below.

    Next, we drove to the Ysios winery, which Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava designed. The wave-like building blends perfectly into the Rioja landscape and the nearby Sierra de Cantabria mountain range.

    With the satisfaction of seeing two unique places, we headed on route A-2124 toward our hotel in Bilbao. Along the way, we had a drink and a quick bite in Vitoria-Gasteiz.

    We are staying at the Holiday Inn Express at the Bilbao Airport tonight. Our flight to Madrid leaves at 9:10 AM tomorrow. Our friends Kurt & Renata are waiting for one more day and are flying back to Zurich, Switzerland, on Sunday the 18th.

    This concludes a most memorable trip through Northern Spain. We had a wonderful time and experienced something special every day. Thank you, Kurt & Renata, for taking us along on this fantastic journey of 1,675 miles!
    Les mer