• Orion Global Nomads
  • Craig Bowman

Southeast Asia

Un’avventura di 160 giorni di Orion Global Nomads & Craig Leggi altro
  • Enter Sem Monourom

    1 gennaio 2023, Cambogia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    After a few days exploring several (but by no means all!) of the major Angkor temples, we headed east to the fairly small town of Sen Monourom, the capital of Mondulkiri Province. After a crowded, 9-hour van ride on NY Eve, we were greeted with some much appreciated chilly weather! New Year's Eve was very uneventful. There wasn't much going on in town, and we went to bed around 11:00. The next morning after breakfast we took a walk around town. The town was lively, with many local shops and a busy market lined a few streets. We stayed in a nice guesthouse run by an Italian guy, which had an excellent Italian restaurant, which we ate at all three nights we were in town.Leggi altro

  • Elephants at Play

    2 gennaio 2023, Cambogia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Craig and I made a 2-day visit to the Mondulkiri Project, a great organization not too far from where we were staying in Sen Monoroum. The project is an NGO that rescues elephants from farming and elephant riding groups, where they are often abused and under-nourished. Also, Cambodia has lost much of its forests to development and, particularly during COVID, to clear-cutting for farming, and in the process elephants have lost their food sources and habitats.

    We met Sofia and Princess and two other elephants (can’t remember their names). At the Modulkiri Project, these gentle giants wonder freely in forested property, are given medical care if needed, and get to eat! We had fun feeding them bananas, and observed them in their habitat. Craig swam with the elephants, fed them, and helped with a bath! The next day - a 16 km trek.
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  • A Beautiful Trek

    3 gennaio 2023, Cambogia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Let’s start with the night before! We and a couple from NZ were the only guests at the project camp that night. We had a nice dinner featuring a traditional soup cooked in a bamboo tube over a campfire. Dinner was followed by rice wine drinking games with our new NZ friends, led by our trek guide. To say the least, some of us did not fare well with the games!
    After much needed sleep in our hammocks with mosquito netting, we had a breakfast of (fairly dry) banana pancakes.
    After breakfast we set off on an 18-km trek in the Mondulkiri highlands: jungle, caves, ancient forests (although sadly, much of the forest has recently been clear-cut to plant crops), waterfalls, and fields of rice! Words cannot describe the experience. Watch the entire video via the link below and the short/cut video in the gallery.

    https://www.relive.cc/view/v26MrNXgg3q
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  • Irrawaddy Dolphins

    5 gennaio 2023, Cambogia

    Today we took the ferry back over to Kratie town, which has a nice sized open market and a few small hotels and restaurants along the river and further inland. We hired a tuk tuk driver to take us on a tour up the Mekong to the small town of Kampie, where we went out in a small boat to see the rare Irrawaddy dolphins that still survive in the area. We saw 7 or 8 dolphins, mostly from a nearby river bank. The dolphins did occasionally breach, but they are much less playful than bottle nose and other ocean dwellers.

    We also visited the nearby hilltop temple complex at Phnomh Sambok, where we got a good workout on the 361 steps to the top. Finally, we visited Wat Tasar Moi Roí (Roi (“Pagoda of One Hundred Columns”) in the nearby town of Sambor, and had lunch at a stall across the street before heading back to Kratie, where we walked around and bought some rambutans before heading back out to Koh Tong Island.
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  • Koh Tong

    6 gennaio 2023, Cambogia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Kratie (also spelled Kracheh) is the capital of a province of the same name in northeastern Cambodia. We were there from January 4-7.
    The minivan ride from Sen Monorom to Kratie was about 6 hours. We had lunch at a restaurant along the river, found an ATM to take out some cash, and then took a tuk tuk to the ferry out to the lovely Kaoh Trong island in the middle of the Mekong. There is a frequent ferry that takes people (and motorbikes, tuk tuks, etc.) back and forth between the island and the mainland. Everything from supplies, food, and livestock is transferred via the ferry.

    We spent 3 nights on Koh Trong at a very nice resort called the Rajabori Villas. On the evening of the 4th after arriving, we borrowed bicycles from the hotel and rode around the island, past beautiful rice patties, pomelo orchards, and traditional island homes. The only village on the island is very small. People were nice and the school kids enjoyed seeing foreign visitors on bikes! We enjoyed the ride so much we took another bike ride around the island two days later.
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  • On to Stung Treng

    7 gennaio 2023, Cambogia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    It’s almost 6am and we’re about done packing. A Tuk Tuk will pick us up from the hotel and take us to a ferry to cross the Mekong to Kratie, followed by a van to head north to the city of Strung Treng, where we had breakfast and spent several hours waiting near the market before boarding another van to the border. Not the most fun travel day!

    Along the way we captured a few pictures of rural Cambodia, including some tasty-looking tarantula snacks at a roadside restaurant.
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  • On to Laos

    7 gennaio 2023, Cambogia ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    After another pretty rough 90-minute van ride from Stung Treng, we arrived at the Cambodia/Laos border. This was the smoothest border crossing yet. The immigration staff were friendly, the lines weren’t too long, and while waiting for our visas on arrival, I was able to get a Lao SIM card for my iPhone - Done!

    We then took a short van ride to hop on a small ferry(!) to Don Det - an island in the Mekong River.
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  • Our first Evening on Don Det

    7 gennaio 2023, Laos ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    After settling in at our hotel, we headed out for dinner in Don Det, ia tropical island n the Si Phan Don ("Four Thousand Islands") archipelago in Champasak Province of southern Laos. Don Det is one of only three of the roughly 4000 islands in the area that is somewhat developed for tourists. Don Det attracts a very backpacker crowd and is known as a party town, although things were relatively quiet as the area has still not fully bounced back from COVID.

    Along the way, we passed several travel agencies, bike rentals, restaurants and bars. After a nice dinner at Kea’s Backpackers Restaurant (sorry no pics), we enjoyed fresh fruit shakes right outside our hotel (which was a bit more upscale than the backpacker guesthouses that fill the town). While enjoying my banana & coffee shake (Craig had mixed fruit) a friendly kitten greeted us and kept us company.
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  • Don Det and Don Khone Islands

    8 gennaio 2023, Laos ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We rented bicycles and had a nice day cycling around the islands of Don Det and Don Khone, both of which are charming tropical islands surrounded by palm trees, with locals living on farms and in small villages. The two islands are connected by a small bridge. There are very few cars on the islands, although there are a fair number of motorbikes.
    We rode through a few villages, past schools, waterfalls, and farms. We saw a little bit of daily island life with locals, and enjoyed the many views of the Mekong.
    In the evening we took a longboat ride around the islands to watch the sunset.

    To view the entire video of the ride - click on the link below.

    https://www.relive.cc/view/vYvr38M5pxO
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  • Champasek and Wat Phou

    9 gennaio 2023, Laos ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    3:00pm: After checking in to our beautiful hotel in Champasek, we took a tuk tuk to the ancient Khmer temple of Wat Phou (which translates to Mountain Monastery).

    Wat Phou is a series of ruined temples and shrines dating from the sixth to the twelfth centuries. It was originally a Hindu place of worship, and the site was likely chosen because of a phallic stone outcropping on the top of the mountain, which easily would have made the site auspicious to worshippers of Shiva, a Hindu god often symbolized by a phallus. The earliest structures at the site were most likely built by the ancient Khmer, although some experts claim they were built by the Champa. Vat Phou was a part of the Khmer Empire centered at Angkor in Cambodia, at least as early as the 10th century. The ruins consist of a series of temples connected by a series of causeways and staircases working their way up the side of the mountain.Leggi altro

  • The Bolaven Plateau and on to Thakhek

    10 gennaio 2023, Laos ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We hired a car and driver today through our hotel to take us on a tour of the Bolaven Plateau and then drop us at the bus station in Pakse, from where we will board our roughly 8-hour bus ride to Thakhek.

    The Bolaven Plateau is an elevated region rising above the heat of the Mekong valley. The area is full of coffee and tea plantations and has a number of beautiful waterfalls. The books recommend spending a few days here, and even doing a 4-5 day motorbike trip around the plateau, but we decided to just see it on a half-day trip. This morning we visited two of the waterfalls (Tad Fane and Tad Champee), as well as a coffee & tea plantation in Paxsong.

    It's about 2 pm and we are now at a Pakse bus station waiting for our bus to show up. Nobody here at the bus station speaks English, and there is no indication when the bus will arrive. Hopefully soon!

    For lunch I had a light tofu-eggplant curry, and Craig had a chicken Laap dish that, according to Craig, was quite spicy. I’ll have to remember to take more food pics!

    4:55pm. We just made a stop somewhere in a local town to pick up some additional passengers. The stop was near a market and several vendors came in our bus selling everything from water, snacks, and whole roast chickens. Some of them were quite aggressive if anyone showed any interest.
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  • Good Morning Thakhek!

    11 gennaio 2023, Laos ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    8:18am. We are at our hotel having breakfast, which is nice since we haven’t eaten since lunch yesterday. Let’s talk about our bus ride - We had a brutal 9 hour ride to Thakhek on an old bus, with questionable brakes, and some very rough roads. We arrived at Takhel at around 11:15pm. We would have gotten here sooner but there were additional stops to pick up supplies, for example the stop where they loaded tons of wood into the lower luggage compartment. No wonder everyone’s luggage was all crammed into the back of the bus. The bus aisle floor was full of bags of rice and fruit. However, I am very understanding of the utilization of supply logistics in parts of the world where one has to take full advantage of vehicles with capacity.

    There were also further travel challenges. It was late and our hotel was 2 miles away from the bus station. We found a Tuk Tuk driver that took full advantage of the late hour. Anyway we negotiated some and finally made it to our hotel.

    I was too tired, hungry, and grumpy last night to take pictures of anything…:)
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  • Leg 1: The Legendary Thakhek Loop

    11 gennaio 2023, Laos ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Thakhek Loop is a 350 km off the beaten track loop in central Lao. There were many sights along the way such as: caves, temples, viewpoints, and hikes. Around 11:30am we started the 1st leg of the loop.

    Craig and I headed east on Route 12 towards Nakay. Even in the rain the karst peaks were dramatic. We made a left turn off to Thma Nong Pa Fa (Buddha Cave) and a smaller cave (cannot remember the name.)

    There was wooden bridge to the smaller cave with missing planks, loose planks, broken or missing hand rails. We make it across safely - see pic. We warned a French couple who approached as we came back across.

    The reason we stated late was due to the irregular rain during dry season. The rain didn’t stop before leaving town. It ended up being quite cold and miserable towards the end. However, we made the best .40 purchase ever - gloves! We were rewarded with dramatic mountain scenery even with the clouds and rain.

    Anyway, 112 km and six hours later, we arrived in Nakay, in the dark, cold, soaking wet, at our stay for the evening. Couldn’t be happier to find shelter from the rain for the rest of the night. The accommodation was basic and had mosquito nets, and you can see how we hung up our wet clothes inside to dry them off - sort of…

    Next: Leg 2 of the Thakhek Loop
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  • Leg 2: No More Rain

    12 gennaio 2023, Laos ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    8:30am - a nice breakfast after a day of riding 6+ hours in the rain. Our clothes weren’t dry but we made due. It did rain on and off the entire evening, and the weather app wasn’t to dependable as it did not predict rain the whole day and evening.

    The clouds were higher, the sun peeked out some, so we decided to hit the road. Along the way, we started a slight accent, about 100m gain according to online information on the loop. We saw two sandstone Buddha rock sculptures carved into the side of the mountain. One was a seated Buddha and the other a Buddha laying on his side.

    Eventually, we headed west on Route 8 towards Phonton and stopped at Dragon Cave. The cave was well lit and it was quite interesting to see the different internal rock formations. Upon exiting the cave, you ascended up towards a cave opening via stairs followed by slippery rocks. The cave exit opened up to a jungle and there were two signs marked “viewpoint” and the other “exit.” We opted for the viewpoint, and made it up to the platform, and it had a great 360 degree view of the surrounding land.

    After cooling off, we climbed down to the exit path. This was part path and mostly negotiating our balance on sharp and slippery limestone rocks, holding on to vines, bamboo, cables, and large gaps to cross requiring any past “Ninja Warrior Obstacle Course” experience one had. And yesterday it did rain all day, so most foot placement required double checking for stability.

    After our safe and successful descent, upon exiting, we collected our bike helmets and had a cold soda before getting on our bikes.

    After driving through a few small towns, reservoirs, gaining some elevation, we arrived in Konglor village. Konglor, is special, and almost surreal in its beauty and peace. Rice fields of emerald green, farmers working in unison, enveloped by majestic mountains, all leading to the Konglor cave. We may have to include additional pictures of this special place in a separate post/foot print as words cannot accurately describe its sheer beauty.
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  • Leg 3: Starting the Loop Back

    14 gennaio 2023, Laos ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    10:20am: We will miss the Spring River Resort. The resort had beautiful, lush gardens and perched right above a river facing a mountain.

    We got on our bikes and headed back t through the valley. The Kong Lhor Valley is something you have to experience in person. An emerald, fertile valley, sandwiched by sharp mountains, crisp air, blue skies, all leading to the Kong Lhor Cave. I could spend weeks in the valley admiring the vibrant colors, locals working in concert tending to their rice fields, and simply watch the world go by.

    1:00pm After a few hours on the road the afternoon sun was heating up. Craig and I stopped at a natural pool called “Cool Pool” in Na Pavan. The water was indeed cool and crystal clear mountain water was inviting.

    After our dip we hit the road to our hotel for the night.
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  • Final Leg

    15 gennaio 2023, Laos

    8:50am After a decent night’s sleep, we are up waiting for breakfast. Craig is plotting some stops along the way back to Thakhek to return our bikes and check into our hotel.

    As we made our way back, we stopped at a few caves, saw some amazing views of rivers, mountains, and villages. The weather was perfect. Nothing like opening up the throttle with the sun on your back as you drive through beautiful country!Leggi altro

  • Onwards to Vientiane

    16 gennaio 2023, Laos ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    9:30am: Craig and I had a leisurely breakfast at our hotel and now are leaving for the capital Vientiane by bus.

    The section of road from Thakhek to Vang Vieng passes through some spectacular scenery, including limestone outcrops, dense forests and hills. The road is mostly paved but can be occasionally bumpy, so it is advised to take it slow, especially on winding mountain sections.

    The last stretch of road between Vang Vieng and Vientiane is a bit more built up, passing through several smaller towns and villages before eventually reaching the former royal capital. Along the way, there were plenty of scenes of local life going by: farmers, fisherman, food stalls, small temples, and schools.

    Here are a few pictures of our view on the road. The first picture is of a group of fisherman that I was lucky to capture while the bus was driving on the highway.

    After our drop off point at the bus depot, we hopped on a group tuk Tuk to our hotel.
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  • Night Market Life

    17 gennaio 2023, Laos ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Vientiane has a lively night market for food. There were fresh fruits, lots of salmon sashimi, grilled meats, ice cream, and Korean and Japanese food stands. Craig enjoyed ice cream and I had some nice bubble tea.Leggi altro

  • Tham Phu Kham Cave

    19 gennaio 2023, Laos ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Vang Vieng, located in the northern part of Laos, is a beautiful mountainous region that is best known for its natural beauty and adventure activities. Craig and I participated in one of the most popular activities in Vang Vieng by renting motorbikes and exploring the area. One of the best sights to visit on a motorbike ride is Tham Phu Kham Cave, which is located about 4 km from the city centre.

    Tham Phu Kham Cave is a spectacular limestone cave located on the bottom of a mountain. There is resort with cool mountain water and outdoor restaurants. We rented head lamps and started our ascent with a steep climb that wasn’t too long. The entrance to the cave is rather narrow, but soon opens up into a wide chamber with several small rooms. Inside the cave, where we found unique and amazing formations of stalactites and stalagmites. The cave is also home to several species of bats (we did not see any), while its ceiling is covered with unique fossil deposits.

    The cave floor was slippery and steep in some spots. Also, there were sections of the cave with very high ceilings, quite an amazing experience!

    The drive through the countryside of Laos is awe-inspiring. The jagged mountains, rice paddies, tropical trees, and blue skies make for quite a composition! We headed back into town before dark for a nice dinner!
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  • Nam Xay Viewpoint

    20 gennaio 2023, Laos ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Craig and I had an rewarding experience hiking up to the Nam Xay Viewpoint. Located about about an hour drive from Luang Prabang, this lookout is one of the highest points in Northern Laos, offering stunning panoramic views of the lush jungle and surrounding mountains.

    The journey up to the Nam Xay Viewpoint is just as exciting as the destination itself. The hike started at a local outdoor restaurant, where we hydrated with some water and bought our tickets. As we made your way up the mountain path, you will took in the beautiful scenery of the rolling hills and dense jungle below. The hike is quite steep, so we were sweating buckets in no time!

    When we arrive at the viewpoint one, we were rewarded with breathtaking views of the jungle and mountains in the distance. We could see viewpoint two. After enjoying the views and some some more water we went down a few steps to join the path that led to viewpoint 2. Not only were sections of the path steep, there were questionable signage indicating other routes through hilly jungle. We opted for staying on the main route.

    On the last section leading up to the viewpoint, we had a very steep, no steps, mostly rocks and a bamboo railing guiding us up to the summit of the viewpoint. After negotiating our last few steps of our climb, we reached a set of wooden platforms offering incredible views of the valley and land below us. Absolutely beautiful! On one of the platforms, there was an old motorbike with a Lao flag for selfies and pictures. Craig and I took our turn snapping some fun photos.

    Visiting the Nam Xay Viewpoint was an unforgettable experience that took some effort. There was one traveler on the way down, who had stopped at one of the tight corners with her leg visibly shaking. It was a reminder to myself that we should do these kind of activities while we still can. The rugged landscape and unique views made for an absolutely stunning adventure today.
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  • Phonsavan

    22 gennaio 2023, Tailandia ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Craig and I enjoyed our visit to Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars. Located in northern Laos, this is an area filled with ancient mystery and beauty that captured our hearts and imagination.

    The Plain of Jars has been around for over two thousand years, with its mysterious stone jars scattered across the landscape. It is thought that these large vessels were used for rituals or burial purposes, but the exact purpose or date of their creation remains a mystery. Today, the jars are both a fascinating reminder of the region’s past and a great source of curiosity as visitors try to figure out their purpose. Our tour guide definitely had his opinions regarding the origin of the Jars!

    Aside from the historical artifacts, there was much to explore and enjoy in Phonsavan. We enjoyed our walks through the town as it was full of markets and restaurants.

    We visited the MAG UXO Visitor Centre. This was a sobering museum dedicated to showing the devastating effects of unexploded ordinance left behind from the Vietnam War. However, it was uplifting to learn about the organization’s progress and their local employees’ efforts as they work to identify and dismantle remaining bombs. It served as a powerful reminder of the importance of working towards peace and stability in the region.

    In short, Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars was an unforgettable experience for us, as we enjoyed exploring the history and culture of this region of Lao.
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  • Enter Luang Prabang

    25 gennaio 2023, Laos ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Luang Prabang is one of the most intriguing cities in Laos and perhaps Southeast Asia. Previously, I had given that title to Hoi An in Vietnam but Luang Prabang may have edged out Hoi An. It has a rich history and culture spanning centuries, making it a truly unique place to visit. The city is sandwiched by rivers and dotted with a variety of beautiful temples and palaces that represent different eras of its history. The architecture is also very interesting and often their are hidden alleyways, and colorful gardens that are bursting with color.

    We hiked Phousi Hill - Rising almost 100 meters above its surrounding plains, this sacred hilltop is an integral part of the daily lives of its locals and provides an unmissable backdrop for visitors to experience.

    The golden-spired Wat Chomsi temple atop Phousi Hill is both an iconic symbol of the city and a spiritual center for many of its inhabitants. The ascent to the summit of the hill is made via a steep staircase of over 330 steps which provides an insight into the vibrant life and culture of the region. Halfway up the staircase, visitors will come across the Buddha Cave shrine which delivers wonderful views of the city and surrounding countryside, before continuing to the top where the gleaming golden temple can be admired.

    The views from the peak of Phousi Hill are absolutely spectacular and act as an important reminder of why this city is so special. On a clear day, majestic mountain ranges, lush green forests and the Mekong River can all be seen stretching out in the distance.

    The city transforms at night with old buildings standing tall from dramatic lighting, a bustling night market with vendors selling textiles, souvenirs, and wonderful snacks, and locals and visitors roaming the streets with curiosity and sense of wonder.
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  • Day Trip to Kuang Si Falls

    26 gennaio 2023, Laos ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    During our stay in Luang Prabang, we decided to explore one of the most popular attractions in the area - Kuang Si Falls, located just a few kilometers outside of town.

    Kuang Si Falls is an incredible three-tiered waterfall with a total height of 35 meters, surrounded by lush jungle and forest. In dry season, there are several smaller drops and pools but during wet season, these all become one magnificent waterfall surrounded by deep green vegetation and bright colorful flowers. The area has a wide variety of wildlife and birds, making it a great spot for nature lovers to explore.

    There is also an animal rescue center nearby, where local staff raise and care for endangered species such as the sun bears, which made for an interesting visit - I bought a shirt in support of their efforts.

    After enjoying the lower waterfalls we took on a more challenging endeavor. We climbed to the top of the waterfall, where we were rewarded with a spectacular bird's eye view from above the main waterfall. The climb down with flip flops on steep dirt slopes were challenging at times.

    There were plenty of visitors, and it was nice to see people out enjoying these majestic waterfalls. Our visit to the Kuang Si Falls was fun and the perfect spot for to enjoy some amazing waterfalls.
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  • Nong Khiaw

    28 gennaio 2023, Laos ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After leaving Luang Prabang we headed to Nong Khiaw. The van ride was long and bumpy! This town is located in Northern Laos, and we thought is one of the most beautiful places in Laos. Nestled between two large rivers, the Nam Ou and Nam Thuen and surrounded by towering limestone cliffs, the town of Nong Khiaw is a sight to behold.

    We stayed at a gorgeous resort - the Mandala Ou, located in a peaceful valley on the outskirts of town, for the duration of our visit. From here, we explored by bikes and foot to explore the area. We also took a trip up the iconic Nam Ou to visit the remote village of Ngoi.

    We enjoyed our time in Nong Khiaw, and will remember the beautiful river scenes and the warm people.
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  • Muang Ngoi

    30 gennaio 2023, Laos ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    From Nong Kiaw, we took a boat to Muang Ngoi for an overnight stay. Muang Ngoi is a town along the Nam Ou in Louangphrabang Province. It is part of Ngoi district 170 kilometres North-East of Luang Prabang.

    The current population is about 700, and of Lao Loum ethnicity. The town was heavily bombed during the Laotian Civil War.

    The boat ride in the morning treated us with spectacular views of the river, rain forests, and jagged lime cliffs. The river banks were dotted with vegetable gardens, some livestock, and sometimes steps to homes.

    Once we arrived at the banks of Muang Ngoi, we took the steps up, and were greeted with locals offering places to stay. An elderly local offered us a room right on the river with a hammock on the balcony - sold!

    The town has a few streets. There were restaurants, cafes, tour offices, and textile stores that were open. There was a small but wonderful Wat at the edge of town overlooking the river. In fact, the stairs opposite the entrance, going down to the river with giant Nagas greeting visitors from the river was really cool.

    The riverbank at the temple’s edge is something out of a Ruben’s landscape masterpiece. A canvass where giant mountains, grand skies, endless river, majestic sun, and an army of trees compete for your attention, yet exist in harmony with one another.

    Our short stay in Muang Ngoi was fantastic and memorable.
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