Second Cities and Third Spaces

Second Cities, Third Spaces. Powerful cities that shape/d how empires actually worked.
They were and are hubs, borderlands, faith crossroads, and money centers where goods and ideas move, and so did/does power between rulers and cultures. Leia mais

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Aalsmeer Flower Auction
8 de abril, Países Baixos ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C
The FloraHolland Aalsmeer Flower Auction, located near Amsterdam Schiphol Airport (AMS), is the world’s largest flower auction.

Established in 1911, it operates as a cooperative, facilitating the global trade of flowers, plants, and bulbs. The auction handles over 20 million flowers and 2 million plants daily, sourced from thousands of growers worldwide.

The process is highly efficient: flowers arrive overnight, are inspected for quality, and auctioned early in the morning using a Dutch clock system—prices descend until a buyer accepts.

The facility spans 990,000 square meters, with a 740-meter-long trading floor. Buyers, including wholesalers and exporters, bid digitally or in person, with products shipped globally within hours.

The auction is a critical hub for the Dutch floral industry, contributing significantly to the Netherlands’ status as the world’s top flower exporter.

Visitors can tour the facility (pre-booking required) to witness the fast-paced, high-tech operations. The auction’s proximity to Schiphol ensures rapid global distribution, reinforcing its pivotal role in the horticultural supply chain.Leia mais
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Herring
8 de abril, Países Baixos ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Herring in the Netherlands is a cornerstone of Dutch cuisine, available in two iconic forms: Hollandse nieuwe (fresh) and smoked.

Fresh herring is young herring caught from May to July, gutted, deboned, and lightly salted. It’s eaten raw, often held by the tail and dipped in onions, or served as haringbroodjes (herring sandwiches). The first catch is auctioned at premium prices, kicking off the season with festivals like Vlaggetjesdag in Scheveningen.

Smoked herring (gerookte haring) is cured and cold-smoked, giving it a richer, woodier flavor. It’s sold whole or filleted, often enjoyed with bread, butter, or in salads.Leia mais
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The Anne Frank House
9 de abril, Países Baixos ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
The Anne Frank House is a historic museum located at Prinsengracht 263 in Amsterdam, Netherlands.

It is the actual hiding place where Anne Frank, a Jewish girl, wrote her famous diary during World War II while in hiding with her family and four others from Nazi persecution.

The group lived concealed in the Secret Annex from July 1942 until their betrayal and arrest in August 1944.

The museum preserves the original rooms, including Anne’s bedroom, and displays her original diary.

Opened to the public in 1960, it attracts over a million visitors annually, serving as a poignant reminder of the Holocaust and the dangers of discrimination.

Admission. €16.50 each.Leia mais
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Arrival in Toulouse, France
10 de abril, França ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
We flew from AMS to Toulouse on KLM nonstop ($173.00 each business class).

We took a private transfer (included with apartment rental) from TLS airport to our lodging.

We’re staying in a fully furnished 550 sq ft furnished apartment (⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️) in the quiet Saint-Etienne neighborhood. €185.00 per night.Leia mais
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Le Genty Magre, Toulouse
10 de abril, França ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Le Genty Magre, a venerable institution in Toulouse, is renowned for its refined take on Occitan cuisine.

Housed in a historic building near the Capitole, the restaurant balances tradition with elegance, offering a menu that celebrates the region’s culinary heritage.

We had cassoulet—a slow-cooked masterpiece of white beans, duck confit, and sausage. The foie gras ravioli was a luxurious twist on a classic.

The ambiance was polished yet unpretentious, with attentive service that complemented the quality of the dishes. It’s a place where history and gastronomy intersect, making it a must-visit for those seeking an authentic taste of Toulouse.

Menu of the day €49.00 each.Leia mais
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Basilica of Saint-Sernin, Toulouse
11 de abril, França ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
The Basilica of Saint-Sernin is one of the largest remaining Romanesque buildings in Europe, constructed between the 11th and 12th centuries (c. 1080–1120).

It stands on the site of a 4th-century basilica, which itself marked the burial place of Saint Saturnin (Sernin), the first bishop of Toulouse, martyred in 250 AD.

A masterpiece of Romanesque design, the basilica features a barrel-vaulted nave, thick stone walls, and a five-tiered bell tower (added later, in the 12th–14th centuries).

The floor plan follows the pilgrimage church model: a long nave, transept, and a chevet with five radiating chapels, allowing pilgrims to circulate around the ambulatory.

The exterior is austere, with **semi-circular arches and massive piers, typical of the era’s defensive architecture.

The interior originally housed vibrant frescoes, though many have faded or been lost. Some surviving 11th–12th century murals depict scenes from the Apocalypse and the Life of Christ, including a rare, early portrayal of Jesus as a beardless, youthful figure - unusual for medieval iconography.

The capital sculptures in the nave and transept are notable for their intricate carvings of biblical and folkloric scenes.

Toulouse was a Visigothic capital (5th–6th centuries), and Saint-Sernin’s site was a religious hub during their rule.

While the current structure postdates the Visigoths, it incorporates spolia (repurposed Roman and Visigothic stones) in its walls, linking it to the city’s layered history. The basilica’s relics, including those of Saint Saturnin, attracted pilgrims along the Via Tolosana, a route of the Camino de Santiago, reinforcing its role as a bridge between antiquity and medieval Christendom.

Among the most intriguing features is the Christ in Majesty fresco in the apse, where Jesus is depicted as a youthful, serene figure - a stark contrast to the later, suffering Christ of Gothic art.

Built to accommodate pilgrims and house relics, Saint-Sernin was both a spiritual and strategic monument, embodying Toulouse’s transition from Visigothic stronghold to medieval powerhouse. Its architecture and art offer a tangible record of the region’s cultural and political evolution.Leia mais
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Stone sculptures from 1096 AD
11 de abril, França ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
The Christ in Majesty series in the Basilica of Saint-Sernin, Toulouse, is one of the most significant ensembles of Romanesque sculpture in Europe.

The series dates from around 1096, making it one of the earliest large-scale Romanesque figure reliefs.

These marble plaques, now set into the ambulatory walls, are believed to have originally been part of an altarpiece or shrine. Their style and scale mark a pivotal moment in the revival of monumental stone sculpture after centuries of limited large-scale carving in Western Europe.

The central panel depicts Christ in Majesty—Christ seated in a mandorla (an almond-shaped aureole), surrounded by the symbols of the Four Evangelists. This iconography was designed to inspire awe and reinforce the divine authority of Christ, a common theme in Romanesque art intended to educate and impress pilgrims and worshippers.

The three central panels are attributed to Bernard Gilduin (also known as Bernard Gelduinus), a master sculptor associated with the high altar of Saint-Sernin. The series includes seven marble slabs: Christ, four angels, and two apostles. The craftsmanship reflects influences from Carolingian and Ottonian metalwork and ivory carvings, but adapted to a monumental stone format.

The Christ in Majesty series is often cited as a key example of the revival of monumental stone sculpture in the Romanesque period. While stone carving never entirely disappeared, the scale, ambition, and narrative complexity of these works represent a renaissance in the art form, likely inspired by the remains of ancient Roman sculpture and the needs of the pilgrimage church boom.

In summary, the series is a masterpiece of Romanesque art, blending spiritual symbolism, technical innovation, and historical revival—all within the context of Toulouse’s role as a major pilgrimage center on the Camino de Santiago.Leia mais
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Locked in a bathroom 🚽
11 de abril, França ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
We had a great casual lunch at Au Gascon.

But after I ordered I went to the bathroom, and upon trying to exit, the bathroom door handle broke. After pounding on the door a couple of times, the staff started to disassemble the door. I was able to help them from the inside by using a spoon they slid under the door to apply some resistance to loose screws. After 5 minutes I was back in the restaurant.

We had gésier (gizzard) salads. I had the duck confit and Darren had the saucisse de Toulouse. Our menu of the day (€21 each) included homemade dessert.Leia mais
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ViajanteGood thinking! I got locked in a bathroom in Mexico once. :D
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ViajanteWow! Glad you got out 👍
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Musée Saint-Raymond
11 de abril, França ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Toulouse’s Musée Saint-Raymond, houses one of France’s most significant collections of Roman artifacts outside the Louvre.

The museum is renowned for its exceptional Roman sculptures, particularly those from the Villa of Chiragan—including a remarkable set of imperial busts from the Julio-Claudian dynasty.

We saw Roman jewelry, ceramics, coins, and mosaics, all offering a vivid snapshot of life in ancient Tolosa (Roman Toulouse). The museum’s underground galleries even featured an archaeological site with a lime kiln, sarcophagi and burials.

The setting itself—a 16th-century university building next to the Basilica of Saint-Sernin—added to the atmosphere, with exhibits spanning from the Bronze Age through the early Middle Ages, but the Roman collection was the star.

Entrance fee €5.00 each.Leia mais
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Musée des Augustins Part I
12 de abril, França ⋅ 🌧 8 °C
Musée des Augustins in Toulouse, housed in a former 14th century Augustinian convent is a stunning example of Gothic architecture with a cloister at its heart.

The museum is renowned for its exceptional collection of Romanesque and Gothic sculpted capitals, many of which were salvaged from abbeys, churches, and religious buildings in the Toulouse region during the French Revolution or later restorations.

Romanesque Capitals: These are typically robust, with intricate carvings depicting biblical scenes, mythical creatures, or foliage. The Romanesque style (11th–12th centuries) in this region often features interlacing patterns, stylized animals, and symbolic motifs tied to religious narratives.

Gothic Capitals: More refined and detailed, these capitals (13th–14th centuries) may include human figures, saints, or more naturalistic foliage. The Gothic period introduced greater dynamism and realism into sculpture.

Many capitals in the collection illustrate Cathar influences, local saints, or scenes from the life of Christ. Some also reflect the influence of the Camino de Santiago, as Toulouse was a major stop on the pilgrimage route.

The capitals often come from demolished or repurposed buildings, such as the Basilique Saint-Sernin, Couvent des Jacobins, or smaller rural abbeys in the Occitanie region.

The collection is a visual archive of medieval religious art and regional history, offering insights into the craftsmanship, iconography, and cultural exchanges of the time.Leia mais
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Musée des Augustins Part II
12 de abril, França ⋅ 🌧 8 °C
Romanesque art is one of the periods of medieval art.
The Middle Ages extends from the fall of the Roman Empire in the 5th century to the traditionally accepted date of 1492, which corresponds to the discovery of America by Christopher Columbus.

During this period, Romanesque art only lasted some 200 years, from the years round 1000 to the 1200s.

Gothic art followed in the early 1140s in the Paris area on the construction site of Saint-Denis Abbey,
but sometimes it happened much later according to the regions.Leia mais
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ViajanteIt is so amazing to see the amount of detail they got into their work.
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Chez Nòu Restaurant
12 de abril, França ⋅ 🌧 8 °C
Chez Nòu in Toulouse is a well-regarded restaurant specializing in Ariègeois cuisine, focusing on high-quality, locally sourced products directly from producers in the Ariège region.

The menu featured both traditional and modern dishes, with an emphasis on fresh, seasonal ingredients.

We had a warm welcome, excellent service, and an affordable, generous five course lunch menu (€45.00 per person).

The restaurant also doubles as an épicerie (grocery), offering a selection of Ariège products such as wines, charcuterie, cheeses, and more, allowing you to take a taste of the region home.

Chez Nòu is located at 4 Rue du Rempart Villeneuve, Toulouse, and is known for its cozy, authentic atmosphere and commitment to local producers.Leia mais
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Capitole in Toulouse
13 de abril, França ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
Salle des Illustres (Hall of the Illustrious) is a masterpiece inspired by Rome’s Galerie Farnèse. Inaugurated in 1883, it is adorned with monumental frescoes and busts of notable Toulouse figures, celebrating the city’s intellectual and artistic heritage.

The painted ceilings of the arcades depict 29 frescoes telling the history of Toulouse, blending art with local narrative.

It’s free as it’s the city’s administrative office.Leia mais
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Moving Day
14 de abril, França ⋅ 🌙 5 °C
Today was moving day. We flew from Toulouse, France to Santiago de Compostela.

The Toulouse airport is right next to Airbus. As both Wichita, Kansas and Toulouse, France are global leaders in aviation, almost everyone we talked to in Toulouse knew where Wichita is and has been there or knows someone living there.

Iberia Airlines. $259.00 each (Economy comfort and one checked bag each).Leia mais
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Santiago de Compostela
15 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
We’re in Santiago de Compostela for a week, helping with CampFI Spain and speaking at the event.

Santiago de Compostela’s old town is a UNESCO World Heritage site, renowned as the culmination of the Camino de Santiago, the medieval pilgrimage route.

Its heart is the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, a Romanesque masterpiece begun in 1075, housing the reputed tomb of St. James the Apostle. The cathedral’s Pórtico de la Gloria (12th century) and Botafumeiro (giant incense burner) are iconic.

The old town’s labyrinthine streets are lined with Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque architecture, including monasteries, palaces, and arcaded plazas like Plaza del Obradoiro.

The Hostal dos Reis Católicos (15th century), now a parador, was built as a pilgrim hospital.

The Mercado de Abastos offers local Galician produce, while the Museo das Peregrinacións traces the Camino’s history.

The city’s atmosphere blends spiritual gravitas with lively student energy (thanks to its 500-year-old university).

Its granite buildings, slate roofs, and hidden courtyards reflect centuries of pilgrimage, trade, and cultural exchange.Leia mais
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Viajante Steve and I have stayed here. Excellent location.
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ViajanteFeels like “coming home” seeing your photos of Santiago.
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ViajanteYes! We find new things here every time we come to visit.
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SdC: CampFi Wrap-Up
20 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
CampFi Spain concluded on a high note with a memorable rooftop tour of the cathedral alongside friends.

The experience was capped off with a few candid photos capturing the essence of Santiago de Compostela—a fitting end to a gathering of like-minded travelers. Ready for the next adventure.Leia mais
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Arrival in Madrid
21 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
Today is moving day. And we’re moving at 300 km (200 mph) past cows, fields and mountain ranges.

As of April 2026, Spain’s high-speed rail network spans 3,973 kilometers (2,469 miles), making it the longest in Europe and the second longest in the world, after China’s.

This extensive network connects major cities such as Madrid, Barcelona, Seville, Valencia, and Málaga, with trains reaching speeds up to 310 km/h.

A direct three hour ride in Comfort seats included a snack and meal for €69.00 each.Leia mais
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Barceló Imagine Hotel, Madrid
21 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
The Barceló Imagine in Madrid (⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️) is a stylish, music-themed hotel located near Chamartín Station, offering easy access to both the city center and the airport.

Its 156 rooms blend modern design with artistic touches inspired by music genres, featuring excellent soundproofing, fast Wi-Fi, and upscale amenities like rain showers and bathrobes.

Guests enjoy a rooftop terrace with an outdoor pool, a fitness center, sauna, and a sky lounge with city views. The on-site restaurant, Eat & Roll, serves Mediterranean cuisine, and there’s also a poolside bar. The hotel caters to GenX travelers who want a polished but unstuffy super-quiet stay right next to the train station.

€183.15 per night for superior room.Leia mais
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MAN (Iberian, Pre-Roman)
21 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
Madrid’s National Archaeological Museum (MAN) offers a comprehensive journey through the Iberian Peninsula’s material culture from prehistory to the early modern age.

The museum’s prehistory section begins in the basement, where visitors encounter a replica of the Cave of Altamira, showcasing famous Paleolithic cave paintings.

The exhibits include tools, artifacts, and artistic expressions from the Paleolithic through the Neolithic and Bronze Age, illustrating the evolution of early human societies in the region.

Entry is €3.00 each to this massive museum.Leia mais
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ViajanteAdding this museum to my next Madrid visit!
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MAN (Hispano-Roman)
21 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
On the first floor, the Hispano-Roman collection features artifacts from both local digs and notable private collections, such as those of the Marquis of Salamanca.

Highlights include Roman mosaics, statues, bronzes, and everyday objects, arranged to evoke a forum-like atmosphere.

The mosaics, in particular, are displayed both on floors and walls, offering insight into Roman domestic and public life.

The bronze Roman statues of children with birds is Niños con pájaros, (Children with Birds), a pair of rare Roman bronze sculptures. These statues were stolen from Spain and later recovered after being illegally sold in the US for millions. The sculptures, dating from the 1st–2nd century AD, depict two children each holding a bird—a motif often associated with Roman funerary or domestic art. Their recovery was a significant victory for cultural heritage protection, and they are now considered among the most valuable Roman bronzes in the National Archaeological Museum’s collection.Leia mais
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Viajante Fantastic! I've seen these illustrating one of my Latin textbooks.
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MAN (Visigoth and Medieval)
21 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
The Visigothic treasure hoards, particularly those featuring jewelry, are among the most spectacular artifacts from the Visigothic period (5th–8th centuries AD) in Spain.

The most famous of these is the Treasure of Guarrazar, discovered in the 19th century near Toledo. This hoard includes exquisite gold votive crowns and crosses, adorned with precious stones and intricate filigree, likely used in religious ceremonies or as royal gifts. The crowns are especially notable for their hanging letters that spell out the names of Visigothic kings and bishops, reflecting the fusion of Germanic craftsmanship and Christian symbolism.

Another significant find is the Torredonjimeno Treasure, which includes gold and gemstone jewelry such as earrings, buckles, and brooches, showcasing the high level of Visigothic metalwork.

Madrid’s National Archaeological Museum (MAN) houses a remarkable collection of Visigothic and Romanesque capitals, which are among the most important in Spain.

Visigothic Capitals:
Capitals from San Pedro de la Nave (Zamora): These are among the finest examples of Visigothic sculpture in Spain, featuring intricate carvings with geometric and vegetal motifs, as well as figures of animals and birds. The church of San Pedro de la Nave itself is a masterpiece of Visigothic architecture, and some of its original capitals are now preserved in the museum.

Capitals from the Monastery of Santo Domingo de Silos (Burgos): While the monastery itself is Romanesque, some of the earlier Visigothic influences can be seen in the transition of styles.

Romanesque Capitals:
Capitals from the Cloister of Silos. The museum displays several Romanesque capitals from the famous cloister of Santo Domingo de Silos, known for their detailed biblical scenes, fantastical creatures, and intricate foliage. These capitals are celebrated for their narrative quality and craftsmanship.

Capitals from the Monastery of San Juan de Duero (Soria): These capitals are renowned for their expressive carvings, often depicting scenes from the Bible or mythological creatures, and are key examples of the Romanesque style in Castile.Leia mais
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Madrid’s Historic Downtown
22 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
We took a self guided walking tour using the Rick Steves guidebook. Our three-hour route included these key sights:

Puerta del Sol. The bustling heart of Madrid and Spain, often called the Times Square of Spain. The Tío Pepe sign advertises the famous sherry brand.

Plaza Mayor. Madrid’s grandest and most architecturally cohesive square, built during the Habsburg era. Its origins trace back to the early 17th century.

Mercado de San Miguel. A historic and vibrant covered food market just off Plaza Mayor. It’s a popular stop, offering a mix of traditional Spanish tapas, fresh produce, seafood, wines, and gourmet treats in a lively, early 20th-century setting.

San Isidro Church (Iglesia de San Isidro), located near Plaza Mayor in Madrid. This church is dedicated to Saint Isidore the Laborer (San Isidro Labrador), the patron saint of Madrid and farmers.

Madrid’s Royal Palace is the largest functioning royal palace in Western Europe, covering 135,000 square meters and containing approximately 3,418 rooms. The Regular Changing of the Guard take place every Wednesday and Saturday. It is free, featuring soldiers in traditional uniforms, a military band, and synchronized drills.

After watching the changing of the guards, we went to Plaza de Oriente, located directly east of the Royal Palace in Madrid. The plaza is lined with statues of Visigoth and early Christian kings. The centerpiece of the plaza is the dramatic bronze statue of King Philip IV on a rearing horse. This statue is renowned for its engineering as Galileo Galilei calculated the balance needed to support the horse on its hind legs, a groundbreaking feat at the time.

Finally, we went to a nearby bistro and had Padron peppers, grilled squid and Iberian pork secreto.Leia mais
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Two Parks, Madrid
22 de abril, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
The Real Jardín Botánico de Madrid covers 8 hectares (about 20 acres) and houses approximately 5,000 species of living plants, with total collections including about 90,000 individual plants and flowers, plus 1,500 trees. Admission €4.00 each.

Next we visited the free Parque del Buen Retiro, which is Madrid’s most famous and expansive urban park.

It covers approximately 125 hectares (about 309 acres), making it roughly twice the size of New York’s Central Park.

Retiro is renowned for its grand avenues, historic monuments, rose gardens, and the iconic Estanque (a large artificial lake where one can rent rowboats).Leia mais
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MAD-ATL-ICT
24 de abril, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Thursday we flew from Madrid to Wichita, Kansas.

We took an Uber from our hotel to the airport. Check-in and security were a breeze. We had Delta Premium Select seats, accessed Madrid’s VIP screening area for free, which meant a quiet and fast airport screening.

We hung out in the MAD Terminal 1 lounge for a couple of hours and then boarded in a relatively quiet terminal (Thursday departure).

Our first flight was MAD-ATL. Nine hours with a four hour layover in ATL. We arrived one hour early. Thankfully we had lounge access in ATL too. The new D18 Delta lounge was 🤩 🍾 🥂 with kale salad and lentil soup 😋.

Our last flight was ATL to ICT, which left early just after 9:00 pm. We watched massive thunderstorms roll across the eastern half of the country on our weather apps. We flew south of the storm front and still arrived in Wichita on time.

Wichita’s airport is really nice. The current airport was built in 2015, and it’s getting a major refresh. While the number of gates is small (12), ICT is at the heart of general aviation in the U.S., hosting major aircraft manufacturing facilities and supporting corporate, cargo, and military traffic.

We were able to easily walk to our hotel through the car-park.

Uber (20 minutes): €23.00
Delta flights MAD-ATL-ICT: $635.22 each.
Doubletree Hilton Wichita Airport: Free (Delta Reserve hotel credit).
Lounge access in Madrid and Atlanta: Free with Delta Reserve card.
Car rental ICT to MHK on Friday. $86.32.Leia mais
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Final da viagem
24 de abril de 2026