• Steven who helped me fixing my tyre :)Slano viewsDubrovnik at sunsetShame. ;)Lara and me while sightseeing in Dubrovnik

      Day 38/39 - Dubrovnik

      7 de setembro de 2022, Croácia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      I started my day repairing my flat front tyre in the morning of the 6th. It wasn't hard finding the puncture in the inner tube. I also found the tip of a thorne of a previous puncture stuck in the outer tube, I assume that's what caused the recent puncture. While I was fixing the tube, Steven (German guy I met last evening) offered his help to pump up the tyre since he has a little compressor at his van. It took us around half an hour and the maximum pressure of the compressor to pump up the tyre in a way that the outer tube is aligned symmetrically, meaning there is no bumpy feeling while riding. I wouldn't have been able to get that done without Steven's help and actually thought I would have to go back to a bike repair shop again to fix it. So Steven saved me some hassle and I invited him for a coffee in Slano before leaving to Dubrovnik. 😊
      Around noon I hit the road again, it wasn't too far to Dubrovnik and it was an easygoing nice road right along the coast. I have booked a hostel in Dubrovnik for two nights, I was really looking forward for a proper bed. Also, there is no camp site close to Dubrovnik and the closest one turned out to be more expensive than the hostel.
      In the hostel in Dubrovnik, I met my bunk neighbour Marko from Toronto in the dorm. We chatted for about an hour and got along well from the start. After some time, another girl checked in the room, Lara from Germany. We immediately started talking since she was the first solo biking girl I met on this trip and she's also cycling to Istanbul! 😁👌 Lara and me decided to explore Dubrovnik together and get some food in town. So we walked around Dubrovnik in the late afternoon. It's a beautiful city but it was packed with tourists!! Haven't been in such a crowded place in a while. 😅 I also immediately felt the "Game of thrones" vibes when entering the old town through the thick wall surrounding the city. Also there were many GoT-souvenir shops around selling overpriced and silly stuff. I went in one anyways at some point. 😄 The first evening we enjoyed strolling around and exploring the little streets that go off the main road. We were pretty tired though so we went back to hostel to hang out there for a little longer.
      The next morning, Marko, Lara, and me had breakfast in a coffee shop near by the hostel and got stuck there chatting until noon. 😅 It was a sunny day, Marko (who has seen most of Dubrovnik already) went off to the beach, whereas Lara and me wanted to do some proper sightseeing. On the way to the city we went into a bike store to stock up my spare inner tubes since I threw out both of the ones I had (one had four patches already and wasn't tight, the other one had a broken valve). We then strolled around the city again following a free Dubrovnik walking tour that I downloaded online, it also included some main filming locations of GoT. ;) Lara and me had a fun time in the city and shared some really nice conversations. In the afternoon, on the way back to the hostel, we went swimming in a really nice secluded bay where mostly locals were hanging out fishing, sitting together, and playing games. Having eaten out all day, Lara and me decided to do a healthy salad at the hostel and have some bread and dip with it. We initially planned on going out for a drink again, but were actually to tired to do so in the end. 😅 Lara planned on staying for another night in Dubrovnik since she wanted to do some trip planning, I planned on leaving the next morning. It was supposed to rain the day after tomorrow and I didn't want to get stuck in Dubrovnik. :)
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    • Meeting NikolaNeumNeum

      Day 37 - Podaca to Slano

      5 de setembro de 2022, Croácia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      Ian, Maz, and me had some very tasty porridge breakfast together with all the fruits we had available (figs, pomegranate, banana) and chocolate. We decided to cycle together until Ploče, from there theybwould cycle inlands while I decided to stay on the coast. It was a lot of up and down in the first 20km and I felt my legs being really sore from the previous climbs on Hvar island. 😅 Before we split ways, we stopped at a nice lookout point onto a freshwater lake to take a picture together. 😊 From Ploče it was a short flat ride along the sea, before the road went inlands again and up the hills. The "backcountry" was very different to the coast with a lot of farming going on and it was really green even though there was a draught. To be honest, it was really exhausting climbing the second mountain that day. When I had a break, a German guy (Leo) on a road bike stopped for a chat. He is also going to Istanbul, but taking the inlands route via North Macedonia. Also he's travelling really light-weighted and doing around 150km a day. I told him to go ahead and not wait for me.😂
      Funnily I soon met him again at the border to Bosia and Herzegovina, where he had to unpack all his bags and was beimg searched. They let me pass without issues at the border and I cycled into the only city of this country located on the coast called Neum. On the way I met another bikepacker from Serbia who was going the other way, Nikola, we also had a chat for some minutes and Leo caught up again but kept going after a few minutes. 😅 With my phone in flight mode I cycled through Neum and had a quick stop at the supermarket for some lunch. Unfortunately, I had no clue about their currency, I just payed but later found out that it was super cheap! 😁👌
      Just around 5km past Neum on top of a hill I was back at the border to Croatia. The border check point didn't look like anyone was there, so I slowly cycled through it until someone suddenly screemed "stop" at me. 😅 There was an officer sitting in the last little house, I couldn't see her since the blinds were down in the window. Being a little annoyed by me, she quickly scanned my passport and said "you can go". 😅 I still had another 26km to go until Slano and it was quite late already. The road was amazing though, winding along the coast with doable ups and downs. Just 15km before Slano, I suddenly saw that my front tyre is really low on air. Confused I stopped and searched for a damage on the outer tube but couldn't find one. So I decided to pump it up again instead of exchanging it, which I had to do every 5km. I wanted to check on it properly once I was at the campground. With a really flat front tyre I rolled onto the campground and was lucky to get a really nice spot very close to the beach. It even allowed me to set up my hammock. ;)) I set up my tent and went for a swim and a shower. I was too tired to check on the tyre and decided to do that in the morning. I then walked into the little town to a tiny and expensive grocery store where I bought some groceries for pasta. I was starving when I cooked almost 400g or pasta, thinking I would eat it all. 😅 I had a nice conversation with a German guy after dinner and finally went to sleep in the tent around midnight.
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    • Jelsa in the morningHumacPunctured tube.. :/Love these pomegranate trees everywhere :)Bikes on the ferryDelicious dinner with Ian and Maz :)Podaca beach

      Day 36 - Jelsa to Podaca

      4 de setembro de 2022, Croácia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      I woke up around 6am aready and couldn't get back to sleep, so I thought I just get up already. I made myself some porridge on the stove and slowly started packing up my stuff. In the meantime, the woman I asked about the pitches the night before (journalist from Slovenia) was also up already and we shared a nice conversation about bikepacking. :) I was the first one at the camping ground reception when it opened and left the camp shortly past 7am already. I went into Jelsa and got some croissant and cheese burek in a Pekara (bakery). Once I left Jelsa, the road was winding up for aproximately 9km to around 300m elevation and a doable but exhausting slope of 5-12%. 😬 There were some amazing views on the mainland during that first climb though and the road wasn't busy at all, which was nice for a change. :) Around 9am, I took a turn to Humac when just before reaching the first peak. It's a little village with a few stone houses from the 13th century, no one lives there though. I had a look around and heard a bell ringing in the bush but couldn't really see what it was. Something was moving around and I assumed it was sheep.🐑 It was a little creepy though so I left again. On the road to Humac I found some wild rucola, which was a great snack with the tomatoes I had left. 😁👌

      I continued cycling through little villages, sometimes even just a few houses on the side of the road. Around 2pm I finally found a supermarket to get some snacks. Just after Gdinj on top of the hill I had two obvious punctures in the front tyres, the thornes were still stuck in the tyre. 🥴 So I unpacked my fixing gear and started repairing the inner tube, when a Danish couple (Brigitte and Daniel) passed me asking whether I needed help, which I luckily didn't. Just 15 min later another British couple (Ian and Maz) stopped who also offered help. I was almost done fixing it, so they went on. Annoyingly, one of the patches was still leaking air (turned out later that it was actually gour puncures and the other two were leaking air, the pstches were fine). 🤔😒 I didn't want to waste more time on it so I just put a new one in. I think I lost about 1.5h due to that. When I arrived in Sućuraj at the tip of Hvar island, I had a quick look around but eent almost straight to the ferry. At the harbour, I met both couples again and we shared a booth on the ferry, having some nice conversation. 😊 Turned out that Ian and Maz were planning on going to the same campground than me so we rode there together for another 6km once arriving in Drvenik. The campground was really nice and cheap. While I was having a swim, Ian and Maz went for a 30min run. 😂 I wasn't able to move anymore, so I just went for a swim. The campground had a nice common sitting area and some sort of kitchen with an electric stove on which the three of us cooked some pasta that night. It was a fun evening and I enjoyed their company a lot. They are on a two-years bikepacking trip, starting in the UK and going tk Greece, from there flying to Abu Dabi and cyxling Oman, next Southeast Asia. Crazy people out there. 😅👌
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    • Ferry to Split
      Morning views :)Split city views :)Car ferry to Hvar islandFerry views onto Hvar islandStari GradJelsaJelsaCamping spot by the sea :)Route part 1Route part 2

      Day 35 -Trogir to Jelsa (Hvar)

      3 de setembro de 2022, Croácia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      It took me a long time to pack my stuff and get ready for the ride this morning, probably also because I had coffee with Jens and Mimi and chatted with other neighbours that were curious about my trip.😅 I also wasn't keen on the ride from Trogir to Split via the mainland, there's just an aweful amount of traffic on the main road and as soon as I would go off it (like I did with Mali), road conditions would be terrible. 😅 So instead I took a different route along the coast of the island and a ferry to Split. When arriving at the ferry harbour in Slatine, only few people and two bikers from Italy were waiting already. I wasn't sure whether it was possible to take the bike on the ferry, neither were the Italians. More and more people arrived and we got a little worried. 😅 But it turned out to be fine, it was just ridiculously crowded and certainly overloaded. 😀 On the pier in Split a French couple with two children (maybe around 4 and 5) approached me, asking where I'm going. Turns out they are also bikepackers on a sabbatical who travel with their kids on tandems for a year. 😅 We exchanged numbers and I might see them again in Albania. 😊
      Arriving in Split around 1pm I went straight for decathlon since I needed some chain oil and a new drinking bottle. After that, I booked a ferry ticket to Stari Grad on Hvar island (5pm departure, no earlier one available) at the terminal and had around two hours left to stroll around Split while phoning with a friend. It's a nice city but also pretty crowded. The ferry ride to Stari Grad took around 1.5 hours, it was raining during the drive and gotten a little cold, so I stayed inside and read while charging my phone. It was also about to get dark when I arrived at 6:30pm but I wanted to get to Jelsa (around 10km away) still since there were lots of campgrounds there. For the first time, I had to put my lights on for cycling. I thought about wild camping, there were many potential spots but it was already a little too late and dark to be sure about the spot. The route I planned on taking going past barking street dogs that were running around, so I decided to stay on the main road (more elevation..😑).
      When I arrived at the camp the reception was closed already. So I asked a woman camping nearby and she said to just set up the tent anyways and tell them in the morning, which I did. It was luckily no problem at all. 😊 I showered and finally cooked some dinner before going to bed, I was really starving. 😅
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    • Beautiful coast around GrebašticaCamping spot in Trogir right by the seaTrogir city viewsCoolest diving boat ever :))View from the camling spot on the other side of the bay

      Day 34 - Šibenik to Trogir, again

      2 de setembro de 2022, Croácia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      I slept in this morning and slowly packed my biking bags again. It was a huge mess in the room. 😅 Around 11am I left Marian's place, it felt a bit weird being back on the bike again, especially cycling the same route again that I've cycled with Mali already just two weeks ago. After some time I really enjoyed being back on the road though. Also, this time I was able to take some pictures of the beautiful coast, in my opinion the most beautiful coast road on this trip so far. In the early afternoon, I stopped at a little beach along the road for a swim and some lunch for an hour. The weather was much better this day already and not too hot for cycling. Half way to Trogir, I then found a smartphone laying in the middle of the street, but it's owner was already running towards me. 😅 I have no idea how it fell out of the window of a driving car, but the guy was super lucky since it wasn't even scratched. 😅 Other than that it was a relaxing ride to Trogir, where I arrived at a nice little camp ground around 4pm. I set up my tent right by the sea and chatted with my tent neighbours for a while, Jens and Mimi from Cologne. They are such lovely people who offered me to store groceries in their little fridge and also invited me to eat with them later in the evening. I then went into Trogir for some sightseeing. It's a beautiful little city (Unesco World Heritage site) with tiny little alleys with art shops, local goods, and restaurants. Once the sun set, I walked back to the camp ground and sat with Jens and Mimi until 11pm, having some beers and delicious rice and seafood that Mimi cooked in a Thai style (that's where she's originally from). 😁 I slept really good that night! :))Leia mais

    • Sunset seen from the bus :)

      Day 33 - Travelling back to Šibenik

      1 de setembro de 2022, Croácia ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

      The previous days I constantly searched for non-flying ways to get back to Šibenik, but unfortunately there were almost no rides in Blablacar available. The ones I found were leaving mostly from Munich and it was a huge struggle to get there in time before the ride (didn't want to rely on trains..). So the option I was left with was a flight from Basel to Split if I didn't want to spend another week in Germany, which I booked two days in advance - most spontaneous flight for me so far.

      Arriving in Split in the afternoon in miserable rainy and rather cold weather (20°C - notbised to it anymore after almost 40°C the previous week). The flight was fine and you could tell by the clapping after landing that mostly Germans where on the plane. 😅 I didn't plan how to get to Šibenik in advance but thought I either hitchhike or take a bus to get back to Šibenik. Once I arrived, I decided for the latter and took a local bus to Trogir first, which took around 30min even though it wasn't far at all. Apparently, the traffic in the Split area is terrible which I also realised while waiting for the bus to Šibenik for more than two hours! 🥴 It was surprisingly chaotic: In Trogir I asked a service lady at the bus station for a ticket and she told me I would get it on the bus, I just need to wait at platform 9 (in the rain, only a tiny little shelter that was already crowded with people), that's were all long distance busses stop. The lady also said, that busses might be delayed for multiple hours and that they might be full already. So I stood there for more than two hours, as did a nice French guy Damien, who was also waiting for a bus going this direction. As I didn't know where all the other 20+ people were heading, I eventually booked a bus ticket online to be sure to get on the bus once it arrived. Around 6:45pm, the bus finally came. After an hour on the bus chatting with Damien I got off in Šibenik, where Marian picked me up by car. After having some surprise tasty chocolate birthday cake at his place and pasta, I went to bed being pretty exhausted.
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    • Day 23-32 - Germany

      31 de agosto de 2022, Alemanha ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      Back in Germany I went to another vet with Mali the morning after we arrived. She got another vaccination (cat flue) and a second opinion on her leg: The vet said that she can certainly keep her leg, so no need for amputation which is such a relieve. But he strongly recommended a surgery to remove the broken off femoral head stuck between joint and bone.
      After a couple of days I got into contact with a neighbour (Annika) of my dad who was happy to adopt Mali and give her a permanent home. We talked about my criterias for adoption (I wanted her to move freely outside, also the surgery is a must if recommended by the vet) and luckily agreed on those! 👌😊 Since she was still on holidays for a week, I stayed in Germany until Mali transitioned into her new home. During this week, Mali enjoyed exploring the garden a lot, also she was really focussed on my dad's aquarium so I put a chair infront of it where she would sit and watch the fish for hours. 😅 Once Annika was back from her vacation, we did a slow transition over three days during which Annika and Mali got to know each other and Mali got familiar with her new place. She's in such good hands and will be spoiled rotten. 😁👌🐈‍⬛💕

      So from now on no more cat photos, promise. 😅😬
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    • Day 22 - Šibenik to Germany

      21 de agosto de 2022, Alemanha ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      We had to get up around 4:45am since the shared ride I found on Blablacar departed at 6am from Skradin, which is about 35min drive away from Marian's place. Mali was pretty sleepy still and layed on my lab. The description of the meeting point in Skradin wasn't really accurate (it said "little Supermarket" and a postal code - obviously there was more than one supermarket in that area), so it took us some back and forth messaging to finally meet up. I drove with a girl (I guess early 20s) and her dad, they are from Waterloo in Belgium and funnily played the song "Waterloo" by ABBA quite a few times. 😅 Another girl joined the ride to Munich just a few kilometers further. Mali's travel box was fixed in the middle back seat, but most of the time she would just sleep on my lab or look around. She got bored easily in the box but overall she was the most amazing little kitten during the drive. Besides the nice company, the drive itself didn't go well. We had tons of accidents (we passed a car laying om it's roof in a tunnel) and therefore lots of traffic jams and delays, also at the borders. -.- We were supposed to arrive close to Stuttgart around 4:30pm - well, we arrived 10:30pm. It was a 16 hours drive. We stopped ever two hours or so and I went for a walk with Mali, also to get her do her business, but she was too scared from the cars I guess. She was pretty blown up in the last two hours, probably because she didn't move much but ate her food. I was worried, so I massaged her tummy until we arrived. My mum picked us up in Stuttgart, she brought a litter box with her which Mali immediately used. 😄🐈‍⬛💨 Still can't believe she held it in for so long.. 🙈
      After another hour we finallt got home and went to bed being pretty exhausted. Mali slept on my pillow again, not leaving me much room. 😅💕
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    • Jetty to St. Nicholas fortressSt. Nicholas FortressSt. Nicholas fortressMan-made?!Mali is getting better and better each day :)Unexpected visitor :D

      Day 18-21 - Staying in Šibenik

      20 de agosto de 2022, Croácia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      During these days I searched for multiple options to get Mali to Germany and also asking around friends and family friends whether someone wants to adopt a little kitten.🐈‍⬛🏡

      Regarding transportation, Dunja actually suggested me to check on Blablacar for available rides. Apparently this is widely used not just in Germany, didn't know that. I found a suitable ride and the girl driving was really happy about me having a kitten with me. I decided I take a few days off to bring her to Germany myself rather than giving her to strangers and hoping she will get there eventually.
      The finding a new home situation will hopefully be resolved soon, too.🙃

      Besides the organizational stuff going on, Mali got better from day to day. Also, I enjoyed having a few days break from the trip, a proper kitchen to cook, a shower, and a bed instead of camping. Marian and me explored the area a little during those days, we went to some beaches as well as St. Nicholas fortress. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't always great, so we also spent some time just watching TV. 👌😅
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    • Gravel road again.. -.-... and again. -.-Split city viewsRoman cultural heritage site close to SplitHow is that a road to cycle, komoot?! -.-Mali's X-ray showing a broken hip..Travel documents!!! :)Day 17 route

      Day 17 - From Kaštela to Split

      16 de agosto de 2022, Croácia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      The kitten woke me up super early at around 5:30am by walking over my face. 🐈‍⬛ 😅 But she was still cuddly and layed down again, so I found no need in getting up so early. I planned to arrive at the vet around 10am, half an hour before arriving I should give a croatian woman a call for further instructions at the vet. So I thought I'd have plenty of time to pack and get there.
      Well, I should have packed up this early because around 7am a local guy came to pick some figs from the tree next to my tent. 🥴 Let's say he wasn't amused about me being there and clapped his newspaper against the tent, but once he saw the kitten he didn't bother much anymore but I started packing up anyways then. He basically ignored me. 🙈😅 I don't think it was his olive tree yard but a neighbour or so and he was "stealing" the figs. I was stressed slightly anyways. 😅🥴

      Even though it was only like 17km to the vet in Split, it took forever. I didn't want to go on the bigger roads with the kitten, so I trusted komoot in sending me on an alternative route - huge mistake, again. 🙈 Not to talk about super steep gravel (!) roads that ended up in road closure due to construction (which I realized after pushing the bike up the hill for at least 10 min, struggling to keep the kitten in the basket), I also ended up with no road at all on a roman historical site at 9am. At least it offered a beautiful view on Split. 🥴 I managed to get over it with the help of three German girls walking their dog. For the last six kilometers I've sworn myself to not get off the main road anymore, even though the ride through Split was hilly as hell.
      I arrived at the vet around 10:20am and Marian was already waiting there. I tried multiple times to reach the croatian woman, but couldn't get through. After calls back and forth between the NGO we finally got hold of someone who told the vet about what to do (some legal issues with the quarantine time had to be discussed) and we finally got to have the appointment.

      I didn't name the little kitten until then because I didn't want to get too attached since I may not be able to keep her. Also, I wasn't 100% sure about the gender. It is a she and they required me to name her for her documents. I named her "Mali", it's croatian and basically means "little". I liked the sound of it. :)

      So the vet found that Mali has a previous injury on her back leg, a broken hip that healed the wrong way. The vet also told me that if she's not using the leg, it may be better to amputate it. After the X-ray, Mali got chipped and vaccinated, and finally got her travel papers. I will go to a vet once we're in Germany to get a second opinion on the leg. But in my opinion she's pretty fine with the leg and using it to jump and run around the appartment. The vet didn't see that since she was just sitting down on the floor frightened and not walking. So far from seeing her using the leg, I don't think it should be amputated, but will get a second opinion from another vet.

      I was so glad to get in the car and back to Šibenik once we were done in Split instead of going back on my bike. I think Mali agrees..
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