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Pals in Croatia & Italy 2024
  • Kerrie Palamountain
  • Kerrie Palamountain

Pals in Croatia & Italy 2024

We invite you to join us on our 2024 Croatia & Italy adventure! We begin our journey on 26th April with a big focus on seeing these beautiful countries by bike. Watch this space after 26th April! Read more
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  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    1Coastline between Positano & Amalfi
    Amalfi homes / accommodationHotel Floridiana where we are staying - right in the heart of Amalfi1We walked from Amalfi to Atrani through a walk tunnelAtrani - a short walk from AmalfiAtrani - a little village near AmalfiAtrani beachA gorgeous bride walking through Amalfi eating lemon sorbet!Amalfi Duomo2Alfresco dining at AmalfiAmalfi from the ferry

    Napoli to Amalfi

    May 20, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We were sad to leave Napoli - our stay far exceeded our expectations. We got the 10 am ferry along with half of Italy it seemed! Stops at Sorrento and Positano and then Amalfi.
    For the first time we are staying in a hotel!
    Hotel Floridiana is smack bang in the centre of Amalfi, however, it is perfectly quiet and peaceful.
    We walked to Atrani - a village only a few hundred metres from Amalfi, through a walking tunnel. We needed an Aperol Spritz after such a long hike! It's 29 here today.
    Amalfi is packed with tourists but it dies down when the ferries stop.
    We ate at an alfresco restaurant recommended to us. Very nice but oh so expensive! Such a beautiful night, we strolled up and down the main drag looking at the many shops still open.
    We have 3 full days here. Rain is expected tomorrow so we may postpone our trip to the Isle of Capri until Wednesday. The knee is a problem but life is beautiful 😍    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    View from Villa Rufolo, Ravello.
    AmalfiFrom the lookout at Ravello - village of Minori.A beautiful setting for a wine bar. We sat on the front left table2From Villa RufoloFrom Villa Rufolo11Lemons grow everywhere on the Amalfi coastline.Amalfi DuomoAmalfi DuomoAmalfi Duomo Bell Tower

    Amalfi & Ravello

    May 21, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We had breakfast in the most beautiful breakfast room imaginable this morning. Photos tomorrow!
    We then got the Shuttle to Ravello - village high up the mountain between Amalfi and Minori. The Villa Rufolo stands on the edge of the cliff and provides spectacular views of the coastline.
    We had a late lunch in the Piazza and then got the shuttle back to Amalfi. These bus drivers are so skilled - negotiating hairpin turns on narrow streets with oncoming traffic and often only centimetres to spare between the bus, other vehicles and cliffs.
    Off to the supermarket for some wine and antipasto. Then to the Hotel Floridiana's Rooftop .... (to be continued!)    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    Cheers Deb on your 70th birthday!
    Just perfect for this occasion!Amalfi is amazing!From the rooftop of Hotel FloridianaAmalfi's foothills!Little villages tucked away in the folds of the hills7Here's the view from the rooftop - a night to remember!

    Hotel Floridiana rooftop wine & cheese

    May 21, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    After our extremely expensive meal last night, we decided to have a simple meal of wine and antipasto (from the local Supermarket) on the newly discovered rooftop of this glorious Hotel Floridiana!
    We had been looking forward to celebrating Debbie Thiele's 70th as well. Happy 70th Deb! Little did we know we would find this lovely haven, without hordes of people. The vistas are stunning. We think we will return here tomorrow night - beats any restaurant we've been to!Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    5Pure joy! Chairlift from Ana Capri to Mount Solaro
    The most beautiful breakfast environment imaginable!AmalfiShuttle bus from Marina Grande, Capri to Ana CapriSt Michael's Church - Ana CapriInside the Monumental Church of St. Michael2The mosaic floor of St. MichaelFrom Mt Solaro - Isle of Capri1The most expensive drinks we will ever consume!2The chair lift from Ana Capri to Mount Solaro was magic!1Mt Solero

    Capri

    May 22, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    After another wonderful breakfast at the Hotel, we got the ferry to the Isle of Capri - 1.25 hrs. We eventually found where to buy shuttle tickets to Ana Capri, way up the mountain. We were crammed into this bus for the 30 min ride - totally unsafe, but fun!
    Explored Ana Capri and the beautiful Church of St Michael with it's exquisite mosaic floor.
    We then took the chair lift from Ana Capri to Mt. Solaro - 15 mins of thrill, peace and pure joy! The views from Mt Solaro are magnificent. We celebrated this wonderful day with the most expensive drinks we will ever consume - 2 x Aperol Spritz costing 38 Euro ($A58.58)! And then they expect a tip!
    We got the 1715 ferry back to Amalfi arriving back at 1815. Back to the rooftop for more antipasto and red wine to finish a fabulous day .    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    Taken from the rooftop of the Hotel.
    The 2 hr bus trip was scenic, scary and crammed full of people!1Positano - taken from the busSorrentoSorrento1One of the best meals we've had in Europe at a restaurant in Sorrento - reasonably priced too!Amalfi coastlineNo description needed!Amalfi coastline1In the middle of this photo you can see a bus on the edge of the cliff!1Italian bus drivers have nerves of steel!

    Amalfi - Positano - Sorrento

    May 23, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We could write a travel book on our experiences with Italian public transport! It's intriguing to say the least! There's a system, sort of ... People run around trying to find where to buy tickets and, as happened this morning, there was only one man selling bus tickets and he was sitting on a stone wall with no sign to say he was the ticket seller!
    We got our tickets by pure chance and boarded the bus to Sorrento. We had 2 1/4 hrs of white knuckles and being totally absorbed by the exploits of the bus drivers and all of the other motorists weaving in and around each other!
    We disembarked at Sorrento and found a delightful restaurant to have one of the best meals we've had since arriving in Europe (and reasonably priced too!)
    Back to the bus station for a 40 min wait for the return trip to Amalfi. Once again, people were herded into the bus like sheep and told to 'move back'. It was total entertainment. We were pleased to be seated each way - it would have been a nightmare otherwise!
    We enjoyed another meal on the rooftop of the Hotel away from the crowds and in the peace and quiet - bliss!
    We are packed ready for our ferry ride and 2 x train trips where we will end up in Caserta for 1 night.
    We've had a wonderful 3 days in Amalfi but we are keen to get back on the bikes in the Puglia region this Sunday.    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    The Royal Palace of King Charles of Bourbon built 1755
    11Nativity scene created for the Royal Family.4

    Amalfi - Sorrento - Napoli - Caserta

    May 24, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Our last breakfast at Hotel Floridiana and then we were lined up for the Sorrento ferry. Another beautiful day. The ferry called into Positano & Capri before we disembarked at Sorrento. A shuttle bus took us up the big hill into the township of Sorrento where we stored our luggage. We walked into the main cafe area to wile away a couple of hours before the train to Napoli. Found a nice cafe and called Chris -had a lovely chat with him.
    The express train to Napoli arrived only 20 mins before we needed to be in the next train to Caserta. Big panic trying to find the correct platform, etc. A great learning curve we are on!
    All is well that ends well .. we found our Royal Hotel at Caserta, showered and then went to the Royal Palace, built in 1755 for King Charles of Bourbon. We thought we had seen the best of palaces and cathedrals, but this Palace took it to another level. Unbelievable opulence and grandeur. At the time, the architect was trying to outdo the Palace of Versailles, Paris.
    We had dinner at a restaurant in Caserta and then back to the Hotel to prepare for another big day of train travel tomorrow to Lecce, in the Puglia region, where we start our next bike ride.    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    4This is part of the group of 13
    The young lady on the right is our guide for the week. Elania is just gorgeous.3

    Caserta to Lecce

    May 25, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Up and off to the Caserta railway station for our slightly delayed departure for Lecce. A comfortable 4.5 hrs on a moderately fast train.
    Taxi to our first hotel which was booked by the bike tour company - Grand Hotel Tiziano. Well, nothing grand about this hotel! No hot water for a shower and the rooms are sub-standard. We are assured that all of the accommodation coming up on this tour is much better.
    We met our Guide, Elinea, at 7.30 and met the other people on the ride. There are only 13 of us, which is a surprise. We had been told the others were from America and all women. Roger was delighted to find 2 other men on the tour. One lovely couple from the UK and the rest from America.
    We walked to the Old Town of Lecce for a delicious 3 course meal at All'ombra del Barocco restaurant. Antipasto dishes were the best we've ever eaten. Just as we were about to leave, a 16 year old boy started playing the piano in the restaurant - delightful! A late return to our hotel room where we repacked ready for our first ride tomorrow - 56 km.
    Sadly I (Kerrie) have picked up a virus which has developed into bronchitis. I'm coping OK, but this happens every time I travel, unfortunately. Hoping the ride will fix the knee & the chest!    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    4The 4 of us on the tour who are not Americans
    Our route for the Puglia bike tour.Acaya -medieval fortified villageAcaya - stop for morning teaAcaya - very quiet villageAcaya ChurchMass at Acaya.Mass at Acaya Catholic Church2Torre dell'Orso - we had lunch here & a swimBorgagne church

    Lecce to Ontranto - day 1 Puglia bike

    May 26, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The 13 bike riders and Ilenia, our Guide, gathered at 0900 to have bikes allocated and checks completed before we began our Puglia Bike Ride.
    The conditions were ideal for the 68 km ride from Lecce to Ontranto (see yellow line on the map). Mainly flat terrain, but we had to negotiate quite busy roads and gravel tracks at times.
    We had a 2 hour lunch break at a lovely seaside village called Torre dell'Orso. I (Kerrie) went for a swim in the beautiful Adriatic sea.
    We arrived at our accommodation around 6 pm. Very grateful for the Ventolin, cough suppressant & cold and flu tabs today!
    We stay here for 2 nights. Tomorrow is a short ride of 30 km.    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    6At Otranto
    Otranto's Cathedral - 800 Martyrs' bones encased hereThe skulls & bones of 800 MartyrsLunch at the village Specchia Gallone4The most authentic meal we've had in Italy - delicious!Cave discovered only 20 years ago1Pre-historic man made caveOne of many deserted buildings around OtrantoOtranto's fortified castle built in 1700's.Otranto's foreshore1Briefing given by Ilinea, with some help!

    Otranto & surrounds

    May 27, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    After a few challenging days health wise, I (Kerrie) got my mojo back and was able to enjoy the day in Otranto and surrounding districts.
    We are staying at a nicely appointed resort 3 km out of Otranto. After a delicious breakfast, we started our ride at 0900. The ride took us out into the country amongst olive tree plantations along narrow roads and bike paths, some quite rough.
    We visited Otranto's Cathedral where the skulls and bones of 800 Martyrs are encased following a massacre by Turkish Islamists in the 1400's.
    We visited the village 'Specchia Gallone' where we were served samples of authentic rural Italian food and local wines. It was truly delicious. The owner of the restaurant babbled on in Italian (see the video) with Ilenia interpreting as best she could. We were totally immersed in rural Italy!
    We visited a few historic sites along the way, one being a pre-historic above ground cave.
    We spent the rest of the day walking around Otranto and visited the Otranto Castle.
    We had antipasto and wine with the couple from the UK, Phil & Bridget.
    Tomorrow, another longish ride following the coast south.    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    Lighthouse at the most easterly point in Italy
    This is not a mosque, but a hotel.2The men playing cards at the village Tricase Porto.Some of our group eating their lunch rolls5At Tricase Porto3Another group of Brazilian riders - all girlsAt Km 0 - Lighthouse Square - Santa Maria Di LeucaCathedral at Lighthouse SquareA building in Santa Maria Di Leuca2An interesting building at Santa Maria Di LeucaThe shop attendant who made our ham & cheese rolls for lunch

    Otranto to Santa Maria Di Leuca

    May 28, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We were on our bikes at 0900 - needing to get a good start for our 56 km ride.
    Another glorious day for riding until we got rained on for maybe 30 mins. Adds to the fun!
    Today's ride was, apparently, the most challenging in terms of ascents, however, compared to Croatia, we thought it was quite manageable. We rode down the east coast of the Puglia region to the most easterly point of Italy.
    Stopped at a little grocery store in Tricase Porto for ham and cheese rolls (see video). No butter or mayo, etc. However, it was delicious. Outside the store, there was a group of Italian men playing cards. The scene epitomized the Cittaslow concept (slow living). It was such a special scene I asked if I could take a photo.
    Our final stop was at Santa Maria Di Leica's Lighthouse Square. This place is a destination for pilgrims all over Europe and is referred to as 'the end of the earth'. It is where all distance is measured from so zero km is in the square - there is a monument with 0 km inscribed on it.
    Checked into our hotel, went for a swim in the glorious sea and then strolled around the area before dinner at a local restaurant.
    We start biking up the west coast tomorrow - 65 km.
    As with our Croatian bike trip, this group is developing lovely relationships - it takes 3 or 4 days for this to happen, but it's nice when it does!    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    212 of the 13 riders with Ilenia ready for dinner
    Cathedral in Varetto built by RomansMausoleum behind the cathedral became a stableBarbarano - last stop for pilgrims before LeucaFrescoes found in the animal stable!We took shelter from the stormUnderground was basic accommodation for pilgrimsAnother authentic Italian lunch at ContadiniNearing Gallipoli, umbrellas ready for the touristsAlleyway in Gallipoli2Only 3 km until Gallipoli after 62 km ride

    Santa Maria Di Leuca to Gallipoli

    May 29, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Roger woke with a head cold while Kerrie continues to improve! We left our accommodation at 0900 and stopped a few km down the track to see the very lovely cathedral at Varetto with a stone building at the back which was a mausoleum but then became a stable for animals! Thunder and rain meant we were forced to wait for 30 mins before resuming the ride. We then stopped at St Maria Di Leuca Del Belvedine - a sanctuary for Pilgrims and animals en route to Leuca from the UK. There is a large underground well and accommodation for Pilgrims & animals.
    We had another delicious authentic Italian lunch at Contadini - a farm where everything on sale is produced at the farm.
    The weather cleared for the remainder of our 65 km ride into Gallipoli which is up the west coast of Puglia. We followed the sea for most of today's ride, very similar to our Encounter Bikeway at home! One of the riders had a fall today but thankfully is OK.
    Our accommodation at Gallipoli is beautiful. We are staying here for two nights too!
    We had dinner in an Italian restaurant and were fed delicious, but way too much food!
    Gallipoli is a beautiful seaside town which we hope to explore tomorrow.    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    1This is the breakfast venue at our hotel
    Jeri heading to hospital in GallipoliCarlos & Marina's home4Marina demonstrating TirimasuThe long lunch - 2 groups of riders hereMain course.Completed Pitta Di PatatiTrying hard to shape Orichette pasta!Gallipoli at nightMarina teaching Orichette

    Gallipoli & surrounds

    May 30, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Our ride today was a short 30 km loop from Gallipoli out to the home of the owner of Salerno Bici - the bike company that organizes the Puglia bike trips.
    The huge home of Carlos (owner of Salerno Bici) and his wife, Marina, also has a huge swimming pool, nearly as big as an Olympic pool
    Marina gave us an Italian Cooking lesson where we learnt to make Pitta Di Patati (potato mash with a filling of tomatoes, olives, tuna, capers, etc), Tirimasu, and also Orichette (pasta shells). It was so much fun trying to shape the pasta with Marina over your shoulder saying (in broken English, 'no madam do not press so hard with the knife!')
    We then sat down to a 3 course lunch outside on long tables just as Italian families do. Once again, authentic, delicious Italian food.
    We had a medical emergency just before we got to Carlos home. We had stopped for a 15 min break when Jeri (American lady), super fit, lost her balance while walking on cobblestones and fractured her humerus at the shoulder joint. We called an ambulance and she was taken to the Gallipoli Hospital. It was a big blow to the group having one of us injured and seeing her suffer. However, Jeri is a real trouper and had heaps of support from her American friends.
    The logistics of getting Jeri home to America are mind-boggling!
    Tomorrow is the last day of our ride. We leave Gallipoli and head back to Lecce.    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    At Santa Maria al Bagno
    Ilenia ordering sandwiches (rolls) at Santa CaterinaNardo - 2nd largest town in PugliaNardo squareNardo CathedralInside the Nardo CathedralThe skyline at Nardo2At a winery for lunch & tastingsSaying goodbye to Younis our luggage manCathedral in Lecce2Approaching a seaside town in Puglia

    Gallipoli to Lecce - last day!

    May 31, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    Today is the last day of our Puglia Bike trip. We set off from Gallipoli and made our way up the coast, stopping at a seaside village to order 'sandwiches' (rolls - mortodello & cheese) from the local supermarket.
    We then rode to a winery for tastings and to eat our rolls.
    From there we visited the glorious old town of Nordo, with it's beautiful buildings that are hundreds of years old.
    The last leg of our 57 km ride was in peak hour traffic into Lecce and to our hotel (which is terrible! Everyone in the group has complained. Like no hot water. Shower not working, etc)
    We went to dinner at the same restaurant we ate at the very first night we met as a group.
    Then the sad bit, saying goodbye to people we bonded with over the week so magically.
    In summary, we loved the week riding the Puglia area. The riding was quite challenging at times with heavy traffic on main roads, riding on rough gravel tracks and long distances. We both had viruses, but were pleased to be able to do the ride and enjoy it. We were also delighted with the group of 13 - 9 x Americans, 2 x English & us. They were all lovely. Ilenia, our guide, was just gorgeous - gentle, kind, considerate, knowledgeable and understanding of us oldies.
    Tomorrow we spend the day in Lecce, washing and preparing for the next part of our Italian Adventure!    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    3
    Roman amphitheatre in LecceOld Town of LecceLovely LecceLecce Old Town2The story of Faggiano MuseumFaggiano MuseumOsteria da Cosimino e figli restaurant at 8.20 pm!Delicious seafood pastaLecce Fortress at night3Lecce

    Lecce - catch up day!

    June 1, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    A slow start to the day! We were pleased to say a final farewell to some of our Puglia Biking friends who were leaving after breakfast.
    We found a Laundromat and got our clothing back in order!
    We then strolled the Old Town area and had .. yes, an Aperol Spritz and pizza for lunch. We visited the Faggiano museum - a fascinating story of a man who, while trying to fix his sewerage problems, discovered 2000 year old underground tunnels, chapels, a nunnery and various other archeological significant things.
    Roger found a wonderful restaurant in the back streets of Lecce not far from here. We arrived at 7 pm and were ushered into the garden area because they were fully booked. At 8.20 pm there was only ourselves and one other couple at the restaurant! Italians love to eat late!
    Tomorrow we travel to Locorotondo for 2 nights to meet up with our dear friends of 51 years, Rob & Janice Cain, who are staying north of Bari for a few weeks.    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    Our cute little Trullo apartment - Locorotundo
    The kitchenette2Gorgeous dining roomFrom the sitting room into the kitchen / dining areaTruilli buildings - LocorotundoThe storekeepers with Rob & JaniceOur friends of 51 years, Rob & Janice CainAntipasto & red wine for dinner & gelato!!

    Lecce to Locorotondo

    June 2, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We took a taxi from the hotel in Lecce to the railway station where we boarded the train for Fasano. After the 45 min journey we found there was no bus from Fasano to Locorotundo so a 'taxi' was called. The 25 min journey only cost 30 euro. We think it was the girlfriend of the publican that drove us, but who cares?
    We arrived at our Trullo apartment and were met by Marina (caretaker) who couldn't speak any English. Still, sign language can be very helpful in these situations! We are captivated by our unique Trullo accommodation - it's like living in a story book!
    Janice & Rob Cain, our life long friends, came to Locorotundo to be with us for just over 24 hours. We chatted for a couple of hours - well, talked frantically to be honest, about our Italian experiences. Rob & Janice are staying at Giovinazzo 20 km north of Bari for 5 weeks.
    We then bought antipasto and some red wine from a small store / restaurant, which we enjoyed at their apartment. Gelato for sweets then 'home'.
    Tomorrow - Alberobello!    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    2Our new friend Damieno
    Cathedral at Alberobello2LocorotondoLocorotondo4

    Alberobello

    June 3, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    At the Locorotondo railway station Janice struck up a conversation with a man, Damieno, waiting to also go to Alberobello for business. He then invited us for coffee and lemon cream filled pastries!
    We thoroughly enjoyed seeing some of the 1500 Trulli buildings concentrated in Alberobello. They date back to the 1400's and are mortar-less limestone constructions which could be quickly disassembled if required.
    We enjoyed lunch away from the main tourist area before taking the bus back to Locorotondo.
    We visited the Old Town area which is nice, but doesn't compare to Dubrovnik or Split Old Towns.
    We farewelled Rob & Janice at the railway station at 1845. It was a delightful time with the Cains!
    We then bought food at a supermarket for breakfast tomorrow and lunch. We have a challenging rail journey from Locorotondo to Matera in the morning - 3 trains and an 11 min transfer between the first 2 trains! Wish us luck!    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    2Sassi district, Matera
    High density living in ItalyCathedral - Sassi town, MateraSassi town, MateraPeople lived in these caves until 1950Sassi town, MateraAmazing rock formationsSassi town, MateraMedieval graves, Sassi townSassi town2Children gathered for a rehearsal

    Locorotondo to Matera

    June 4, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We knew that this leg of our journey was going to be the most challenging - and we were not disappointed! Instead of 3 trains to negotiate, we had 4! We traveled for 6 hours on trains, quite anxious for most of the time.
    In Bari we had to switch to a regional train service and we found ourselves running to 2 other train stations with minutes to spare! Still, we made it to Matera and our accommodation - 600 metres from Matera Centrale railway station and close to Sassi township.
    After a cuppa & slice, we made our way to the Sassi township of Matera - the oldest continually inhabited township in Europe.
    There is evidence of human habitation dating back 10,000 years BC. It is quite unbelievable and beautiful. There were people inhabiting caves until just after the end of WW11. We hope to hike to the caves tomorrow (if the knee holds up).
    We had dinner at an underground Church (1000 years old) recommended by the Tulletts & Hefferans who were here not long ago!    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    The Sassi township
    Sassi2Cannot stop photographing Sassi3We were there!Palombaro LungoBasilica Cathedrale di S. Maria Della BrunaSassiMiniature carving of SassiCasa Grotto1Deliciousness!!2Sassi township

    Sassi - old town of Matera

    June 5, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    A full-on day started with a visit to Basilica Cathedrale & museum. Unbelievable wealth and grandeur created while the peasant people were living in poverty.
    We then visited Santa Maria de Idris - a church built into a rock at the highest part of Sassi with magnificent views of Sassi.
    We then saw two more cave churches dating back to the 13th century. Sadly no photos allowed.
    Graeme & Tania recommended foccasias from Panificio Paoluccii - famous throughout Matera. We indulged with white wine & fruit for lunch followed by a quick siesta!
    Feeling refreshed we visited Palumbo Lungo, dating back to the 16th century - a man made excavation to create a massive 5 million litres cistern to contain water for the people of Matera.
    Not finished yet ... We then visited a magnificent stone carving of the entire Sassi township by Eustacio Ricchi completed in 1996 after 3 years of painstaking effort called
    'I Sassi in Miniatura'.
    The last place we visited was Antica Casa Groto - this is a cave dwelling replica of a typical home used until 1953. Absolutely fascinating. These people were evicted and Sassi was left vacant for 2 decades. In that time many priceless artefacts were removed and/or destroyed. In 1993 Sassi became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
    It reached 28 here today and was humid. We spent heaps of time climbing up and down steps between the many levels of Sassi - getting lost on a number of occasions. We devoured an Aperol Spritz late in the afternoon and then found a superb shop that sells all sorts of wonderful foods & wine. Another meal of antipasto tonight & Primitivo red wine - superb!
    Tomorrow we are having a Cittaslow day (slow) and will visit Sassi at night.    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    Uacciardidd owner
    2Our selection of salads & cheese2Enjoying an early lunch - delicious!12Anyone want to join Roger's Club?Sun setting on Sassi2 churches, almost joined carved into rock2Waiting for the sun to set on Sassi5The ravine that divides Sassi1Sassi at sunset6Sassi at nightA wonderland full of intrigue

    Matera - Day 2

    June 6, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    A lovely slow start to the day with the delivery of croissants by our landlord. We made our way to Casa Noha in the Sassi district. Here we saw a 30 min video on Matera from the very beginning until now. Our thanks to Tania & Graeme for recommending this. It helped put Matera, in particular the Sassi township into perspective.
    We followed the recommendation of Greg & Shirl Hefferan and visited the Unacciardidd Butcher which also serves delicious Italian food. We thoroughly enjoyed a selection of salads, burrata (buffalo cheese), bread & red wine.
    Back to the apartment for a siesta and early dinner (antipasto again) before we walked to the Sassi district to await the sunset and the turning on the lights.
    Tomorrow we leave this amazing place and train to Bari Centrale and then a 4.5 hr train trip to Ancona, where we spend 1 night en route to Bolzano (northern Italy).    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    Church in Ancona
    Typical curved street of the Old TownsAnconaCattedrale di San CiriacoInside CathedralNew building on top of Roman structure6A typical cave dwelling until 1956 in Sassi district

    Matera to Ancona

    June 7, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Our goal today was to travel by 2 trains from Matera to Ancona (on the East Coast of Italy).
    Fortunately we had virtually completed packing last night because this morning we woke at 0545 to no power! An interesting morning poking around in the dark having breakfast, packing, etc! No hot water either.
    We were due to catch the 0748 train from Matera to Bari Centrale where we would swap to a fast train to Ancona (4.5 hrs).
    We were at Matera Centrale with plenty of time to spare and a train came through heading for Altamura (half way to Bari). A conductor jumped off the train and ordered us onto the train, saying we would swap trains at Altamura. What to do? We jumped on, then at Altamura we (once again) made a mad dash out of the station and around to another platform. We boarded the train with 30 secs to spare (again!)
    At Bari we knew the drill this time round and where to go for our train trip to Ancona.
    Booked into the Fortuna hotel across the road from Ancona railway station (a dump at $A245/night), showered, had the mandatory Aperol Spritz and then jumped on a bus into Ancona central area.
    On recommendation from Shirl, we climbed halfway to heaven to see the Cattedrale and then descended to a more sensible altitude for a light meal and a cool drink. We managed to get the bus back to Hotel Fortuna to prepare for another long day on, hopefully, only 2 trains as we make our way to Bolzano, near the Dolomites for this, our last adventure of this holiday.    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    1View from our window at Hotel Magdalena Hof
    Outdoor dining at Hotel Magdalena HofBeef Sirloin for KerrieBaked sea bass for RogerEn route to Bolzano - from the train1 hour from Bolzano

    Ancona to Bolzano

    June 8, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Another day of train travel and we are delighted to say, our last! We left Ancona, heading for Bologna where we had 16 mins to swap trains. Fortunately the next train was delayed 10 mins - what joy, because we had to go up and down various levels to find platform 16.
    We sat next to a delightful man - Professor of Pure Mathematics (Italian) living for 30 years in the USA. He was speaking at Trento University to research students.
    The train trip from the southern Puglia region to northern Italy has been fascinating. To see the dramatically different landscapes - flat down south to this region with majestic mountains and lush vegetation. We can also see the changes in socio-economic status between the poorer south and the obviously wealthy north.
    We waited for 30 mins for a taxi at Bolzano train station in drizzling rain but we were rewarded with our destination - Hotel Magdalena Hof. Kerrie swam in the hotel pool and we then enjoyed a delicious meal at the Hotel outdoor restaurant. We have 5 nights here before we start our next bike trip. Tomorrow, weather permitting, we will explore the Dolomites.    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    Mont Seceda
    6Mont SecedaMont Seceda1Mont SecedaOstisei1At the top of Mont Seceda11

    Dramatic Dolomites - 1

    June 9, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We decided to go to the Dolomites and hope for good weather. We were blessed with a lovely day to explore this amazing landscape.
    First we caught the bus from outside our Hotel (free of charge) for the hour's drive to the alpine town of Ostisei. A beautiful drive through the mountains and past torrents of water.
    We got the cable car to Mont Seceda (2,500 metres) and walked along a ridge so we could see over to the next valley. Quite cold, however, we warmed ourselves with hot drinks at the mountain top cafe.
    We descended in the cable car and bought another ticket to Mont Seuc.
    This whole area reminds us of Germany much more than Italy!
    This morning has been a highlight (one of many) of our trip to date.    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    2Mont Seuc
    3Mont Seuc1Not sure what's so funny?OstiseiA cute fountain in OrtiseiAlpine town of OstiseiA small castle between Bolzano & Ostisei3Mont Seuc

    Mont Seuc - Dolomites 2

    June 9, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    After our first cable car to Mont Seceda, we took the cable car on the other side of the town of Ostisei. This cable car ascended to 2,100 metres. The view, once again, was stunningly beautiful.
    We then got bus 350 back to Bolzano. The stop is just outside the entrance to Hotel Magdalena Hof.
    The Hotel has given us a public transport and museum pass for the duration of our stay, which meant our 2 hours on the buses today was cost free.
    We showered and then got bus 8 into Bolzano township where we had some dinner.
    Tomorrow is a day to explore Bolzano township.    Read more

  • Kerrie PalamountainPals in Croatia & Italy 2024Traveler
    1Bolzano Central area
    1BolzanoBolzano1Bolzano3Cable car to Soprabolzano Oberbozen 1,221 metres2Taken from cable car2The Dolomites8By chance we sat next to a mother & daughter at dinner.2The waitress opening a bottle of local red - Magdalena!First course a pasta with a delicious sauce3Hotel Magdalena Hof Breakfast

    Bolzano - bad hair day!

    June 10, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Another lovely slow start to the day with a delicious breakfast on the patio of the hotel.
    We then took a bus to Salon Ryan - the only hair salon that could fit us in. Roger needed a trim & Kerrie a colour and cut. We now know why we were the only customers! The 'barber' from Albania, coloured Kerrie's hair and it turned out white!! He also 'trimmed' her hair into a short bob! Off to the supermarket to get a L'Oreal colour! Roger the hairdresser, saved Kerrie from near emotional collapse!
    We took the local cable car to an Alpine village just above our Hotel, however, rain prevented us seeing too much. We will return tomorrow ready to explore this beautiful mountainous area with more views of the Dolomites.
    We had a long chat with Jacob, the young Owner/Manager of Hotel Magdalena Hof. He & his mother run the Hotel. We then went across the road to a small bistro for dinner where we had the best lasagne & pasta meal we have ever eaten. We were seated with a mother & daughter from Germany who are en route to Venice. A delightful dinner spent chatting with them (didn't even introduce ourselves, but ended up hugging and promising to visit each other!) Many blessings along the way, even with a bad hair day!!    Read more

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