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Berlin 2026
  • Paul Docherty
  • Paul Docherty

Berlin 2026

Cycling east to the Berlin 100 Meilen Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 3, 2026
    Paul DochertyBerlin 2026Traveler

    Day 1 - York - Hull

    Aug 3–4 in England ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    89.9k. Well! A tough first day. We’re used to being blown to Hull to catch the ferry, but no Westerly today. A persistent headwind from the East got worse over the Wolds and in parts was strongly funnelled in the dry valleys. As well, I’d been a bit under the weather for the previous couple of days and Caroline had the York 10k still in her legs from the previous day, so we both felt today in our legs.

    A great smooth check-in and I politely declined Caroline’s suggestion that we ride around slightly to bring our daily total up to 90k. Even the ramp up to the loading deck, normally a fun challenge, felt hard.

    The mighty pleasure of the buffet dinner will cure us!    Read more

  • Paul DochertyBerlin 2026Traveler

    Day 2: Europoort - Soest

    August 4 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    108k. A good day but super hot on the bikes at 32-34 degrees. At least no headwind and we bowled along with mostly a sidewind. Slow going through Rotterdam, Gouda and Utrecht.

    The route went through incredibly green, wooded areas. It always surprises just how green NL is despite it’s population density. And strangely, it was mostly green, not yellow.. I suppose due to the watercourses everywhere.

    As expected the cycling infrastructure in Utrecht was amazing. Loads of suburban traffic lights had distant detectors to change the lights so you could continue, even when we could have done with a traffic light breather.

    We need the weather to cool… time to check the forecast for tomorrow.    Read more

  • Paul DochertyBerlin 2026Traveler

    Day 3: Soest - Ommen

    Aug 5–6 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    105k. A much better day today on the bikes. Thankfully the temperature was about 7 degrees lower and some clouds give us respite from the bright sun. That, better hydration, better fuelling helped the legs a lot.

    Leaving Soest, we soon hit a long area of holiday resorts next to the Veluwemeer - a large bit of water. Loads of sailing, kite surfing, windsurfing and also large numbers of holiday cyclists on the paths.

    After that we turned off towards Zwolle into farmland with lots of cattle. The navigation of Zwolle was fun and we are now well adjusted to traffic giving way at most roundabouts and the gentle flow of cycling traffic with everyone seemingly looking out for each other.

    After Zwolle, it was more farmland and some forested areas again. The same smooth impeccably maintained infrastructure and low car speeds on rural roads made the cycling so relaxing.    Read more

  • Paul DochertyBerlin 2026Traveler

    Day 4: Ommen - Werlte

    Aug 6–7 in Germany ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    110k. Today we left NL and crossed into Lower Saxony through rural farmland. The border marked the end of the amazing Dutch cycling infrastructure and there was a fairly abrupt change in cycle path surface quality which varied from excellent to terrible. We both arrived with our arms rattled to bits… but at least there is infrastructure of a sort.

    After grabbing some food on arrival found our B&B in the centre of town, owned by the sixth generation of the same family, a bookish and very welcoming woman. Every overnight is different and this one is traditional, full of character and 200 years old.

    The weather moderated again today and was almost normal for the time of year which was a great relief.    Read more

  • Paul DochertyBerlin 2026Traveler

    Day 5: Werlte - Bremen

    August 7 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    102k. Halfway stop now in Bremen and having been rural for a few days it was good to roll into a city. After a great nights sleep in an old hotel in Werlte with lots of opening windows, we quickly got into farmland again. The farms became bigger and do more isolated; we passed through a few quiet towns, but few villages.

    No rural bike tour is complete without a dog incident and passing a large farm with nobody around we had a classic of the genre. Suddenly a large dog bounded out ferociously barking and showing its teeth. Goodness knows what breed, but this is a land of big dogs and this one seemed more than a cute pet… he or she was on a mission. In a split second, all the usual advice like you can’t out sprint them, avoid eye contact, stop and keep your bike between you and the mutt and crucially, defend your wife, went out the window. Without thinking I changed gear and sprinted like hell, so the mutt headed for Caroline who screamed hard. She just got away before the huge teeth sank into her left calf… Who knows if it was just fending us off or the blood-curdling scream did the job? Not me, I was 500m up the road by then!

    Again the surfaces varied from a grassy lane with an alleged paved surface under it, to bumpy asphalt, bumpy block pavers to smooth Dutch standard asphalt - to be honest much more of the latter today.

    Bremen was interesting cycling through and we’ll have time to have a proper look on our rest day tomorrow.    Read more

  • Paul DochertyBerlin 2026Traveler

    Day 6: Bremen

    Aug 8–9 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    A rest day from cycling, we had a little bit of time to see Bremen. Cycle touring doesn’t allow time to tick off tourist sites, but just enough time to get a feel for a city. First impressions were of a young, vibrant, international city.

    There must be elections around this area… loads of AfD and CDU billboards in the rural areas, then loads of SPD, Green, Left and Volt billboards on the city itself. Apparently a long SPD tradition in Bremen but as in much of Europe, increasing polarisation and squeezing of the centre right, centre left and centrist parties.

    We had a wander around the university area where we were staying, a trip into the centre, Caroline did the Parkrun and we both had a gentle jog in the afternoon followed by a swim in the lake.

    A great rest day and we feel ready to go again tomorrow.    Read more

  • Paul DochertyBerlin 2026Traveler

    Day 7: Bremen - Amelinghausen

    Aug 9–10 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    114k. This is the longest day of the whole tour and as forecast, a hot one, up to 33 degrees. We started early and rolled out of Bremen around 8am . It was good being on the north side of the city as we were immediately into quiet roads.

    We survived the bright sunny day thanks to an incredible amount of tree cover during much of the of the route. Starting out in in farmland, we soon entered forested areas which where great to cycle under.

    A bit of climbing rounded off the day.    Read more

  • Paul DochertyBerlin 2026Traveler

    Day 8: Amelinghausen - Schnackenburg

    August 10 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    111k. Great day on the bikes. Glorious cool, cloud and a bit of rain helped the long cycling day a lot.

    We started off in hilly country and headed towards a very large forested and not very inhabited area. We cycled a while in that with the pace egged on by the presence of wolves and boar, which we never saw but such a long way from anywhere kept us on our toes. The advice was that the local authority ‘monitors’ the wolves in the forest… so that was reassuring!

    We emerged into beautiful empty lanes and the sun coming out and finally reached the Elbe river in late afternoon. This part of the Elbe used to form part of the East-West border.

    We’re staying in the old school which has a hostel like atmosphere and is run by one man.    Read more

  • Paul DochertyBerlin 2026Traveler

    Day 9: Schnackenburg - Semlin

    Aug 11–12 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    108k. Another great day, though not without its challenges. We had it down as an easier day as it was a bit shorter. But we had to re-route as the ferry over the Elbe, in the village where we stayed, was out of service.

    Heading up river to the next nearest ferry, in a very sparsely populated area, we unexpectedly came across a road closure of 3-4k, with no chance of getting past the works. Facing a seriously big detour, we asked a couple in a house near the works and they were amazing giving us precise directions via an unmarked field track and then crossing a field to a dyke which would get us past the closure.

    The dyke had a cobbled path which was pretty smooth and got us to the little ferry at Rabel to cross the Elbe. We were the only people on for the crossing and bought some of the operator’s blueberries on the way over the Elbe.

    The rest of the day through some forest and then across farmland which felt very remote and unihabited. Despite this, the track surfaces were amazing, so we made good progress.

    Our first time cycling in this part of Germany and in the old GDR; fascinating to see due to the interesting history.

    Berlin is getting close now…    Read more

  • Paul DochertyBerlin 2026Traveler

    Day 10: Semlin - Berlin

    Aug 12–13 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We made it and it feels so great to have arrived.

    A day of huge contrasts started with more quiet roads and villages in the cool of the morning. We eventually turned of the road onto a forest track composed of concrete slabs which had shifted and produced a big thump with every join.

    It was only a stretch of 5-6k but we had to ride slowly due to the surface. In the middle it was very dense and, in places, dark. What about these wolves and boar that exist in German forests? What if we have a difficult mechanical? Is there even any signal? We survived unscathed and eventually emerged back onto rural roads.

    The villages gradually started to look a bit more affluent approaching Berlin; then we traversed some satellite towns and finally quite an industrial area. At this point we were in fast roads with no adjacent cycle track and for the first time in the whole tour there were a couple of sketchy overtakes.

    But sure enough, a cycle track soon appeared and we meandered through outer suburbs and eventually onto a long straight section that would take us for about 20k into the centre of Berlin. Endless intersections were tiring in the afternoon sun but soon enough we were cycling through the shade of Tiergarten…

    It feels great to have arrived. A brilliant tour. A deeper insight into day to day Germany. A fascinating variety of accommodation and moments of connection and kindness to remember.

    Absolutely staggered by the generally smooth roads, a brilliant cycle track network (though not our initial impression), stunning forest and unspoilt open spaces. It would have been great to have been able to take more time, but it’s a balance with accommodation costs.

    Now to enjoy Berlin and the 100 Meilen Run.    Read more

  • Paul DochertyBerlin 2026Traveler

    Day 11 - 16 Berlin and the Relay

    Aug 12–19 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    What an amazing experience in Berlin. We were tired after the journey so simply went out to recce our start point for the run. It was a long way out of the centre and a 20min walk from the nearest bus stop. That done, we travelled back on bus tram bus and then got our feet up!

    The next day we moved the bikes out of our room into their storage place, then headed over to Race HQ to meet the rest of the York Knavesmire Harriers runners and attend the English briefing for the Berlin Wall 100 Mile run (a relay segment thereof for most of us!). For those running long legs or the whole of the 100 miles, the weather forecast was the main concern with yet another super hot and humid day forecast.

    Everyone then went to fuel up on pasta and pizza, then it was an early night for the early starters.

    On run day, we drank as much as we dared (not enough!) before the 90 minute trip on bus/tram out to our start. I had a 10k leg and Caroline a 20k leg in each of two relay teams. Arriving where we had recce’d there was… no one! It was a nervous walk back around the course to where our actual start was, but we were there… in position. Again we kept the fluids up and waited for Jen and Bryan to come into sight. They came on schedule, we had a quick photo, switched the transponders and we’re off.

    Instantly we felt the heat and humidity, and also the weight of all the other people ahead of us. But we knew what had to be done and also knew we could only do what we could do. The first few k were hard but then we loosened up and were able to push a little to overcome the heat (not too bad in the morning but bad enough!) in the middle k’s. Soon it was 4, 3, 2k to go and even though it was painful we could squeeze a little coming in just over an hour for my 10k.

    After handing over to Alice, I was left pouring with sweat as Caroline ran on. It took a good few minutes before I could start the 20min walk to the train to get back. I was still pouring sweat 45min later and I’m glad the train had opening windows. We were pleased we held to reasonable times, though undoubtedly fortunate to have a morning slot in the relay as the heat really took its toll on subsequent team members.

    The following morning, we got up early to be at the finish for Alan who had run the 100 miles solo … not his first but an astonishing achievement in the heat. We all met up for dinner in a beer garden to celebrate in a great atmosphere.

    The next few days were general Berlin sightseeing depending on interests, mine focused on the Cold War, the DDR and the Stasi all warnings from history about authoritarian governments.

    What a city, what an experience in the run and what a fantastic bunch of people in York Knavesmire Harriers.    Read more

  • Paul DochertyBerlin 2026Traveler

    Day 17: Berlin - Utrecht

    Aug 19–20 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Deutsche Bahn cancelled our train at a civilised morning time, so it was up at 04:45 to get ready to leave for the rearranged 07:04 to Amersfoort. We rode through a wakening Berlin, past the Reichstag building to Berlin HbF.

    All the cyclists were at the same spot to board, so we chatted to a London couple with their daughter on their way back home and young Berliner on her way to spend a Chemistry Masters Erasmus semester in Amsterdam. What a disaster when Brexit robbed a young British generation of the Erasmus programme.

    As night follows day, the train got later and later - it was a strange experience being on a state of the art German ICE train going so slowly, even stopping at one point after it hit a bird.

    Getting into Amersfoort 105 minutes late, we felt immediately at home in the Dutch cycle infrastructure and had a chilled 20k cycling to Utrecht. Once again we were amazed by the traffic lights of Utrecht which try and allow you to keep going where possible.

    Our bikes parked in underground storage we headed for the Stayokay, a beer, food and an early night after a Utrecht stroll.    Read more

  • Paul DochertyBerlin 2026Traveler

    Day 18: Utrecht - Europoort

    Aug 20–21 in the Netherlands ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    So, facing a headwind, we decided to tack to Europoort going west then south rather than facing into the wind all day. The different route was prettier, passed through several towns including Delft (and past the campsite we stayed in 30 years ago with Ciara as a baby!). Delft was super busy and it was very slow going in the centre.

    As the day passed, the wind got up and, despite the route change we had a strong headwind component the whole day. We finally arrived and were directed to the front of the queue by staff - always a pleasure! A small gathering of cycle tourists chatted there about the adventures just done and one family had quite young children - a brilliant introduction to continental cycle touring and they were as proud as Punch.

    On the ferry we had an early dinner and then met up with Lance (from the Harriers) who’d cycled solo doing big days in straight lines from Berlin. Reviewing our day we opted for a train trip in the morning - a good decision.    Read more

  • Paul DochertyBerlin 2026Traveler

    Day 19: Hull - York

    August 21 in England ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Up early for breakfast, we then disembarked into a cool crisp Hull day. As we cruised down the Humber Estuary, it did feel good to be home. We headed for the city centre and were soon at the station and on the train.

    An hour later we were home in York which had its race-day flavour on display. We soon adjusted to the traffic and very intermittent cycling infrastructure and were home in no time.    Read more

    Trip end
    August 21, 2026