• Paul Docherty
  • Paul Docherty

Cycling 2024 York to the Alps

A bicycle tour from York, UK. We plan to start with a week touring some of the IJsselmeer in the Netherlands. After that, south to pick up some of the EuroVelo-19 route south before heading South East to the Alps. Camping and hotels, some rest days. Lue lisää
  • Matkan aloitus
    12. toukokuuta 2024

    York to the Hull Ferry

    12.–13. toukok. 2024, Englanti ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    First day of the IJssellmeer tour moving onto the long haul down to the Alps after a week. A hard 92k day into a brisk headwind. Beer in hand on the Hull-Rotterdam overnight ferry now where so many of our adventures have started.

    A varied route and not our usual ride over the Wolds; looking forward to the Dutch cycle paths tomorrow.

    40 bikes booked onto this ferry!
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  • Rotterdam Europoort- Barendrecht

    13.–14. toukok. 2024, Alankomaat ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    A shorter ride today seeing some of South Holland south of Rotterdam, then spending the afternoon in Barendrecht with Jan.

    As ever, the cycle path network (including lifts and tunnels, wide smooth cycle paths) is an absolute masterclass in civil engineering.

    In the evening we met more of Jan’s friends and had a lovely dinner on part of the river bank adjacent to their garden.

    Their houses was fascinating - near the site of the ‘Old Bridge’ over the Maas and used by the German army during the occupation in WW2.
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  • Muiderberg - Koudum

    15. toukokuuta 2024, Alankomaat ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    An early start as we had a ferry deadline for the last ferry of the day. Skirted Amsterdam on busy cycle tracks before heading up the West side of the IJsselmeer, via Edam.

    Really varied landscapes, towns and villages with never too far between. Lots of riding on the dyke by IJseelmeer with great views across the water.

    Had a lunch of eel and herring rolls to add to the Dutch experience.

    Rode through Edam which was beautiful and surprisingly unspoiled.

    Crossed the IJsselmeer into Friesland on the Enkhuizen -Stavoren ferry and rode on to Koudum
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  • Koudum-Kampen

    16.–17. toukok. 2024, Alankomaat ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    A really varied day characterised by a strong headwind. The wind really blows in NL and on the dykes and generally in the open, you really feel it.

    We diverted through the Weerribben-Wieden National Park. A gem of waterways and beautiful houses that we’ll definitely go back to.

    Arrived in Kampen pretty tired, to be given a cold beer by the hotel owner while we did the formalities. Perfect.

    The journey in a southerly direction has begun!
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  • Kampen-Soest

    17.–18. toukok. 2024, Alankomaat ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The highlight of this day was riding through the Veluwe Nation Park. Great cycle tracks in magnificent forest, intermittently breaking out into clear areas reminiscent in parts of the African savannah. Sandy ground, tussocks and small hills.

    It was a bit of a shock to approach and enter Amersfoort, especially with all the schools emptying onto the cycle tracks. Onwards to Soest….

    We said goodbye to Jan tonight. Sadly not retired, he goes back to Rotterdam to catch the overnight ferry home to Hull. It’s been a brilliant week and, though we’ve visited NL many times, his insight was great. We are signed off on most Dutch food now, finishing with some Dutch-Indonesian food tonight. Thanks Jan and see you back in York!
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  • Gassell - Venlo

    20. toukokuuta 2024, Alankomaat ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Huge rainfall on the campsite last night so it was a relief to get going on the route to Venlo. It started out on small roads and then alongside the Maas.

    Like all the Eurovelo routes, EV-19 (which we’ll be following for some of the trip) is stitched together from small roads, and various cycle tracks. There were some today which were quite narrow in places, though always surfaced. Loads of people out for Pentecost Monday, a big public holiday.

    Arriving at one foot/cycle ferry crossing of the Maas, we found no service, allegedly due to the high water, we had to find another route into Venlo.

    Another rest day tomorrow. I’m not sure exactly why our plans included 2 rest days close to one another, but a chance to see Venlo.

    Close to Germany, there is more of a look and feel of Germany around and I’m sure I can hear the Dutch accent sounding more German.

    Fantastic cycling. Brilliant cycle tracks, respectful drivers and no culture wars detected here!

    Tour so far: 709.58 km
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  • Venlo-Schinnen

    22. toukokuuta 2024, Alankomaat ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    It’s strange. You’d think after days of cycling you’d not be up for it but cycle touring is addictive. After a rest day, well timed avoiding huge thunderstorms, we were itching to ride today. Another hugely varied day, partly cross-crossing the Maas giving the amazing infrastructure of NL a workout on the ferries, but as also villages, 3 countries (a bit of Germany with a climb - a surprise for the legs)

    Eventually arrived at a beautiful little Nature campsite to hear the news of the election date announced.

    A beautiful and classic cycle touring day. This is why we do it.
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  • Schinnen (NL) - Liège (BE)

    23. toukokuuta 2024, Belgia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Well that changed abruptly. After a great evening on a perfect campsite, we were both woken up by nausea then sickness. In the morning we were quite weak, but decided to push on as it was a relatively short day, though with a few climbs,

    Seriously, it was limp mode.

    Passing from NL into BE the transition was surprisingly abrupt towards lower quality cycle paths and surfaces, always the continental respect for cyclists, but not so much protection from infrastructure.

    We knew our entrance to Liège would be gritty - it really was through an extended barge loading area. Eventually I punctured and sorted it out under a motorway bridge.

    Finally, still unwell, a climb to where we were staying.

    We got there!
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  • Liège - Namur

    24. toukokuuta 2024, Belgia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We felt 70 - 80% better after a huge sleep so good to go and the relatively short hop to Namur. The Liège traffic wasn’t fun but we eventually found the riverside route.

    If gradually got less rainy as we rode along the Meuse, at the same time getting less industrial. The barges were constant company and even loaded tourers, it appears, can outsprint them.

    First impressions of Namur are that it seems much less industrial than Liège and a smaller quieter city.

    Now drying out!
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  • Namur (Rest Day)

    25. toukokuuta 2024, Belgia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We had a chilled day wandering around Namur, still recovering a little from our little bout of illness and very much still drying out! All mixed in with a few jobs on the bikes.

    Namur is a great place. Understated, not touristy, very young, very relaxed. A beautiful mix of historic, new, run down and very modernist - all very much not sanitised. As ever when cycle touring not enough time for ticking off sights and museums though we’d to come back and do this here.

    Though I can speak a few words of Dutch courtesy of a great couple of years going Languages For All at York, it is great to be back in a French-speaking area where we can get by easier.

    On the road again tomorrow…

    942k
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  • Namur (BE) - Haybes (FR)

    26. toukokuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We left Namur on a balmy Sunday morning and rode along beautiful smooth riverside roads/paths with the odd bit of pavé thrown in. The scenery changed entering the Ardennes and we were soon surrounded by steep wooded hillsides.

    Into France and the scenery opened out. A good day, though the pattern of late afternoon thundery showers continues. The rain is battering the tent in our municipal campsite at Haybes.

    1025k
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  • Haybes - Remilly Allicourt

    27. toukokuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Another classic day along the Meuse. The river getting a bit more tranquil now, with frequent weirs and dams. Quite a view boats navigating the locks. As ever, wild flowers and birdsong the whole way.

    The landscape opened out a bit from steeply wooded hillside shortly after Haybes to more open countryside.

    Again we were caught in a period of heavy thundery rain; but the warm wind soon started to dry us out.
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  • Remilly Allicourt to Verdun

    29. toukokuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Quite a hard day after setting off in the pouring rain. We were well fuelled having spent a couple of nights in a small simple country hotel - which happened to be a renowned restaurant. In fact on one of our two episodes of sheltering under a motorway bridge, about 30k from Remilly, a couple of local cyclists assured us we were on route to a ‘Bon Table’! And it was.

    So, after setting of in rain, we had a relentless headwind and undulating terrain all day until reaching Verdun. So will we find our climbing legs before the Alps? We’ll see.

    Approaching Verdun, memorials and notices about the Battle of Verdun were everywhere. We’re only passing through but looked into one cemetery - the sight of mass war graves always moving sight.

    1216k
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  • Verdun - Euville

    30. toukokuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Rolled out of Verdun on the right side so we didn’t have to cross the city again. Soon we were on D-roads which got quieter and quieter until we virtually had them to ourselves. Some elevated roads gave great views across the Meuse valley. Single track roads through fields of wheat swaying in the breeze and some early corn.

    Village after village looked quiet and France’s urban drift was really evident. Gone are the days when many villages would have a bar, boulangerie and bistro.

    Having had quite wet weather since leaving NL today was dry and the wind eased. As well, the sun came out so it felt good.

    There was another section of canalside path so we took that for a bit, had a coffee in Commercy (in a bar run by a French Brazilian who supports Crystal Palace) and then arrived at our destination for the day - Euville.

    A classic French cycle touring day.
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  • Euville - Neufchâteau

    31. toukokuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Another amazing day, again a bit shorter than our average. We have to overnight where we can sit this means shorter days (& occasionally longer) sometimes.

    More rolling French countryside, lots of villages full of character though with few services. It’s amazing that everyone maintains a ‘town hall’ resplendent with the French flag and the flag of the European council.

    We stopped at a picnic area in one man’s garden/field, set up ‘only for cycle tourists’ (we like the exclusivity! 😉). He chatted for ages and we shared apricots. As well as route info, he told us that the upside down village name signs are part of a farmers’ protest.

    Heavy rain showers in the afternoon and predicted overnight, and our existing tent already wet, we are camping in a small set up tent tonight with a rest tomorrow. Time to dry out, rest the legs and get ready for the days ahead. In Neufchateau (Newcastle!).
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  • Neufchâteau - Bannes (Langres)

    2. kesäkuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    One of the bigger days and had more climbing which is good training for the days ahead. Lovely narrow lanes initially and, as we approached the Langres area, more exposed roads higher up.

    The tick-remover finally got a bit of use as Caroline found she had a hanger-on.

    Staying on a farm campsite which seems to bd a popular stopover for caravans and motor homes heading south.
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  • Bannes (Langres) - Auxonne

    4. kesäkuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    A big day - 118k starting with a Cat 4 climb up to Langres. We knew a long day was ahead of us. But in the end, it was the surfaces that were the most challenging. Highly variable with some rough stuff. The off-road gravelistas would have loved it, but for refined touring bikes with decent pressures in the tyres, it was a tough ride!

    So, loads of canal side riding along the Champagne-Bourgogne canal until we reached the Saône river.

    The wildlife is always interesting. The bird life amazing. I tried several times to get by a photo of a heron, but by the time I’d stopped and got my camera out, they’d flown off. We saw (I think) several beavers. Also my second snake of the trip - this one was big; around 1m long and crossed the cycle track about 10m ahead of me.

    Auxonne is a great little place to stop over.
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  • Auxonne - Lons Le Saunier

    5. kesäkuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    After a fantastic rest overnight in Auxonne we wanted to be up and away early, but I found my rear tyre flat. No real hassle but I never like punctures where I don’t locate the source and I found nothing here.

    The riding was through lots of forest which gave welcome shade at times and a bit of climbing was more practice for the climbing challenges ahead.

    We were on a few of the Eurovélo routes for a bit, but otherwise it’s my own route, so we saw fewer other cyclists. In previous days, we spoke to several Dutch cyclists heading for Barcelona (apparently there’s a good guide to a NL-Barcelona route) - so they’ve all headed off South West now.
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  • Lons Le Saunier (Jura) - Matafelon (Ain)

    6. kesäkuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Quite a big climbing day at 1134m of ascent and ended up a hard day due to getting caught in heavy prolonged rain at the same time as a stick tried to chew up Caroline’s front mudguard. Just about managed to sort that without the right tools.

    But the scenery really changed today. The hills of the Jura were beautiful and then entering Ain, the first full climb with hairpins and beautiful views.

    With the unusual rain in France, the landscape is incredibly lush; the birds and birdsong amazing and there are loads of insects. Descending fast means a battering from various flying things and one settled into my groin and stung me - I didn’t catch what variety of stinging insect but it was blooming painful!
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  • Matafelon - Artemare

    7. kesäkuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Matafelon - Artemare

    Great day. We pushed on as we’d stopped for our rest day on a rather wet and muddy campsite next to a lake and under attack from swarms of flies.

    The trip was about 65k, the main bit being up and over the Col de la Cheminée, with all the undulations about 950m of ascent. We soon escaped the heavy valley traffic and enjoyed the climb up - most of it was around 5% so that feels okay.

    After a poulet sandwich at the summit, we came down a beautiful long gentle descent, the mountain views getting better all the way down, to our campsite for 2 nights. 2 rest days in the next few days ready for the big pass on our final day.

    Most of our camping has been on small sites, but occasionally we use a slightly bigger site. On these, we enjoy the equitable allocation of pitch - the same as the campers and caravans as all pitches are approx the same size. So a much better campsite for the rest day.
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  • Artemare (Rest Day)

    8. kesäkuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ 🌩️ 25 °C

    A rest day on a great campsite in Artemare. Again lots of sorting, fettling, resting (of course!) . There were some showers in the middle of the day - making it rainy,, I think, on every camping day we’ve had.

    What a pleasure to find ourself on a pitch next to a cycling couple from Mirfield, W. Yorks. Using a camper van and carrying luxuries such as chairs and a table, they invited us to eat with them in the evening. We had a memorable evening chatting and eating. Thank you Paul and Beverley.
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  • Artemare - Annecy

    9. kesäkuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ 🌩️ 21 °C

    We left the campsite in Artemare, our last planned camp for the trip. Initially we rolled along fairly flat terrain before heading up a steep gorge. The road was fairly wide which was just as well, as there was a good number of cars.

    Passing through villages, it was voting day in the European elections and so interesting to see people out on a Sunday to vote.

    The heat built through the day and eventually we crossed the Rhone into Savoie, touching on a short bit of the Via Rhona. From there we climbing steadily up, ending up on a great balcony road that took us into Annecy. We’ve always known Annecy’s famous lakeside cycle path; what was really amazing was the network of suburban cycle paths.

    We managed to get installed in our hostel/hotel not long before another huge thunderstorm.

    A rest day tomorrow.

    Thanks for the Qs and support! In answer to a couple of queries:

    1) The overall map can be seen by clicking on the Tour title ‘Cycling 2024 York to the Alps’ then clicking on the map to open it up.

    2) How far have come so far? Up to Annecy, 1824k since York.
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